Cannot Load Colour profiles

Hi guys
I am on the latest version of Tiger and wanted to caliberate my screen. Since I am completely useless I download some color profiles from the internet which were to be added in /library/colorsync/profiles. I did that but cannot access the new files in the display preferences. How do I go to display preferences and select one of the new profiles?

Hi Jonathan,
Thanks for replying. What I mean is that a friend had sent me his calibarted profile via email and told me to add it in /librar/colorsync/profiles and then select it via the display preferences. However when I open color tab the two new profiles dont show up and I cant select them

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<2012-mar-02 kl 21:16 CET> <Warning> <Coherence> <BEA-000000> <Oracle Coherence
3.6.0.4 (member=n/a): Local address "127.0.0.1" is a loopback address; this clus
ter node will not connect to nodes located on different machines>
<2012-mar-02 kl 21:17 CET> <Warning> <J2EE> <BEA-160140> <Unresolved optional pa
ckage references (in META-INF/MANIFEST.MF): [Extension-Name: oracle.applcore.mod
el, Specification-Version: 0.1, Implementation-Version: 11.1.1.0.0, referenced f
rom: C:\Oracle\Middleware\user_projects\domains\base_domain\servers\AdminServer\
tmp\_WL_user\usermessagingserver\a7bt7z]. Make sure the referenced optional pack
age has been deployed as a library

Hi:
try placing the jars that represent ur driver, here
For both Windows and Linux, you must perform the following steps:
Drop the vendor-specific driver JAR files to the user_projects/domains/soainfra/lib directory.
Drop the vendor-specific driver JAR files to the <Weblogic_Home>/server/lib.
Edit the classpath to include the vendor-specific jar file in <Weblogic_HOME>/common/bin/commEnv.sh
This info was copied, from here: http://docs.oracle.com/cd/E21764_01/integration.1111/e10231/adptr_db.htm#CHDBEJDC
Hope this helps
best

CCP colour profiles and different lenses

Hi,
I just got a Nikon D7000 and I've been playing around with my ColourChecker Passport to set up some standard colour profiles for use in ACR as a general starting point for processing. I've been pondering if it's worth my while to create different profiles for each lens I have, something I've not previously done when profiling my old D60, where I just created a series of profiles (including some dual-illuminants) by using one lens and capturing the target under a variety of different lighting conditions (e.g. tungsten, flash, sunshine, etc).
Anyway, I just tried creating a profile for my 105mm 2.8 lens under tungsten lighting, having previously (yesterday) created one under the same lighting with my 50mm 1.4 lens and I've been comparing them in ACR using the colour dropper. I’ve opened up the images used to create the profiles, applied the profile generated using the ColourChecker software for the corresponding lens, and then set the white balance using the ‘off-white’ colour patch with the eye dropper WB tool. I then used the colour dropper on the same colour patches in each image. I’ve noticed that the RGB colour values aren’t matching quite as well as I’d expected (note that I thought it potentially unrealistic to get a perfect match): blues and greens seem to be roughly the same, so for example with patch #3 (third from left on the top row), one is at 69,72,115 and one at 70,77,115, but reds and oranges seem to be a bit further out of sync, e.g. with patch #15, one is at 99,45,29 and one at 109,51,34; with patch #16 one is at 166,167,29 and one at 175,179,33. This surprises me a little, as I thought the idea of CC was to calibrate the profiles so that colours were essentially the same across different lenses – and different cameras if applicable. I have to say though that, colour values aside, when eyeballing the two images on my monitor (profiled) they do look very similar, which I guess is the main thing!
I wonder if perhaps I’m missing something here? I’m quite prepared to be told that I’ve got this all wrong!
Also, I wonder if others on the forum using CCP have gone to the trouble of creating lens-specific profiles, or if they’ve just created profiles for their camera body using one lens? This is the approach I took with my D60, but having done more reading on CCP I know that some folk do advise to create separate profiles for each lens they use (and I am of course aware that the CCP user manual also states to do this). Do you even create a profile for each and every shoot (when possible)?
I’d be very interested to hear your opinions on this as I’ve not been using CCP for all that long and am always eager to learn more.
M

First of all, a color profile is for correcting color, not luminance, so compare the HSL or Lab coordinates not the RGB values so you can just ignore the L coordinate. From your given RGB numbers, you can already tell that one of the images is brighter than the other so it is just confusing looking at the RGB values and guessing what you would expect the three values to be in the other image. For comparing two images, I would concentrate on the Hue number in HSL coordinates, since Saturation can change with contrast, and Luminance can change with Exposure and Contrast.
Also, as part of your eyedroppering comparison, another thing to do would be adjust the "Exposure" of the darker image until the L number (in HSL or Lab) is the same as the L in the brighter image and then see what the other two numbers are--maybe the other two numbers won't change, and then you can try putting one of the HSL values in the "Old" patch of the color-picker and the other in the "New" patch and see how much different they look. You'll have to do this comparison in Photoshop not ACR so use ProPhotoRGB when you export to keep the colors as close to the same as you can.
The two questions you seem to have, are: does using a lens-specific profile make enough difference to real world situations to bother with, and where are the variations I'm seeing when the profiles are applied to their source images coming from since I would think they would be the same.
For testing whether the profiles computed for the two lenses make a noticeable difference even with your two profiles that don't appear to correct the same, apply the two profiles to the SAME CC image (one of the two you created your profiles with), save an sRGB JPG of each, and see if you can tell the difference, either side-by-side, or even better, when you flip back and forth in some sort of photo viewer--like with Windows Picture Viewer when those are the only two images in the folder. By apply the two profiles to the same image you have mitigated any luminance and white-balance differences in the source image and are merely looking for differences in the effect of the two profiles.
If you can't tell much difference between the same image using each of the two profiles then it's just an academic exercise. I like academic exercises, but am also a perfectionist and lazy so I would do the experimenting until I found out I'd perfected things enough that I can't tell any difference then I can stop. In other words, do I need to profile for various lenses or not, or am I just doing it because I like to control everything as much as possible and it really doesn't make any difference.
Before answering the other question, about where any profile variations might be coming from, understand that the combination of white-balance and color-profile is attempting to convert the colors of an object photographed in the lighting scenario the profile was created for into the colors of the object photographed in a standard lighting scenario. In my mind the works out to be "make the colors of the object look like it was photographed in sunlight". The issue that requires making a profile and not just white-balancing, is that any part of the object that was colored the same as the light color will be neutral when the white-balance is done, and more generally the closer the color of the object is to the color of the light, the more neutral it will become when WB is done. For example, if you have a red ball and a gray ball and photograph them in red light, they will both look gray when white-balanced. A real-world example of this would be flesh-tones in incandescent light, when white-balanced will have even less color and be more neutral or pale or even bluish, than the skin photographed in sunlight, so after white-balancing, the job of an incandescent profile is to boost the reddish colors and diminish the bluish colors so the skin looks like it would in sunlight. This might be an argument for NOT WBing skin in incandescent lighting. In severely-colored lighting, especially nearly monochromatic lighting such as sodium vapor lighting, correcting the colors to be as if in sunlight will be impossible, but to the extent the lighting isn't monochromatic, the colors can be made to look more normal, if not perfectly normal..
To understand whether the differences you're seeing in the profiles are due to the lenses being different color or due to variations in the profiling process, itself, think about where the variations could come from and how you might test for each:
Was the source lighting exactly the same color between the two shots with different lenses (that were taken a day apart)? Test by eyedroppering the WB of same neutral-color patch in each photo and see if there is any difference in the Temp/Tint numbers. You cannot test the source-lighting color unless you have shot with the SAME lens for both days, so if you don't have shots with the same lens, seeing that the WB is not much different between the two shots can give you some comfort that the difference in the profile was not a difference in the source lighting. The source lighting might have changed if there was some daylight mixing in on one day and not the next, or if the A/C was running on one day and not the other and the voltage was slightly different and the redness of the light was different. One other thing that can wreak havoc in repeatability of both color and exposure is if any of the lighting is fluorescent CFL or tubes, because that sort of gas lighting changes intensity as the voltage varies and reverses 60-times per second and this variation is especially noticeable if the shutter is fast. So while your lighting may have been incandescent any changing daylight or flickering fluorescent lighting mixed in might have changed the source-lighting color enough to make a variation in the profile more than the color of the lenses might have.
This first question dealt with the photos taken with each of the two lenses. The remaining questions are about testing with just one lens.
Is the profiling process repeatable? Test by creating two different profiles from the SAME CC photo and be a little sloppy about when marking the corner patches, and see if you get different numbers applying those two profiles. An idea where things might not be repeatable, is that there are slightly variations in the color of the color patches (you should be able to move the eyedropper across the color patch and see if the RGB numbers change) due to slight color noise and depending on where you put the "corner" markers on the CC image, you'll get slightly different results.
Does the exposure make any difference? You can determine this by taking a photograph using the SAME lens in the SAME lighting (a few seconds apart), and just varying the exposure by 1/2 or 2/3 of a stop, and then computing a profile for each exposure and apply those two profiles to one of the exposures and see if the non-L coordinates of HSL or Lab eyedroppered.
If you check all these variations you'll have an idea of how much each affects the profile and then can judge if the magnitude of the differences you're seeing are related to variations with creating the profile, or actually related to differences in the lenses and thus a new profile for each lens might be warranted, assuming you can tell the difference, still. I mean even if you can tell the difference between the profiles created with different lenses, are the differences from the lens significantly more than the differences due to exposure or lighting color or corner-patch placement?
I haven't tried computing a profile for each lens; however, I have created a dual-illuminant profile (2700K and 6500K) and then computed new color-matrix slider values (the ones under where you set the profile) for various lighting conditions using Tindemans' script and despite the slider values being not close to zero, I can hardly tell any difference on the few images I've looked at. Once exception to not having the color-matrix sliders make much difference is when using the dual-illuminant profile with fluorescent lighting, which has a significant Tint value compared to either of the standard illuminants, but in the case of fluorescent lighting, I'd rather compute a whole new profile, than use a slider-corrected dual-illuminant profile.
Besides eyedroppering Lab or HSL coordinates in Photoshop, another way to check for color variations is to create a color-error plot in the Color Check module of Imatest and see how far the squares and circles are off from each other for each color-patch. An example of such a color-error plot is linked below, where it shows how far off the colors of a color-checker are in incandescent lighting after computing a color-profile in incandescent lighting. You'd expect them to be completely correct, but they aren't, and is a lesson in color profiles only being to go part way in making the colors look as if they were photographed in sunlight:
http://www.pbase.com/ssprengel/image/101322979
If you click on the above image, you will return to the thumbnails for color-error the gallery, and in the gallery description you can see links to both Imatest and Tindemans' script if you care to pursue things more in depth. Imatest is not free but does have a free 30-day trial, which should be enough time to get some useful information out of it.

Colour profiles problem - images saving too dull. Please help.

I realise you have probably had this question a million times before and I have looked at enough related threads, but I am still at a loss as to what to do. Please note I'm not the most computer-savvy.
For the record I am using Photoshop 7 (yes it's old, but it suits my needs just fine!) and Windows Vista Home Premium.
What I do is take photographs of my artworks, edit them in Photoshop until they look accurate, then post them online. Images have always looked identical in every program, and I had never had any problems, until I got connected to the Internet on Tuesday. This computer has not been connected to the net for a good few years, and so lots of updates got installed. I'm not sure which ones exactly, as my boyfriend took care of that, but I'm convinced this has caused the problems I am having now:
First I found that an image I had edited and saved as .jpg for web use was showing up overly saturated and contrasty in the Windows Photo Gallery preview. I assumed I had saved it wrongly. I re-opened the jpg in Photoshop to check - it looked exactly as I had saved it. I figured something had messed up with Photo Gallery during updates, so I uploaded the jpg to the Internet. The image that uploaded was the overly-saturated, contrasty one.
After realising that suddenly ALL the images I had uploaded online, and all the images saved on my computer, now had this awful over-saturated look, and yet the thumbnails on my desktop looked fine... I realised it must be something to do with the colour profiles, and tried to find out the answer online. My monitor colour profile was set to "21.5 inch monitor" so I changed that to sRGB as default. I can't remember what Photoshop was set to, but at any rate I set it to sRGB also.
I thought I had it fixed, as it seemed to just be Photo Gallery that was not matching up (it was displaying my images with less saturation than as I saved them).
However today I took a new photo of a drawing I'm working on, to load onto my blog. I had to take it into Photoshop to make edits and correct, as always. I opened my photo in Photoshop... lo and behold, far too contrasty and saturated!!
This time, Windows Photo Gallery preview is showing the (unedited, straight out of camera) photo as it should be... Photoshop opens it too contrasty.
I made my edits anyway, saved for web as .jpg, checked the jpg in Photo Gallery before uploading... It saved duller than it should have done!
Uploaded the jpg to the internet... and I have the dull image uploaded.
So first they were too contrasty, now they're too dull. I have tried to follow advice given on similar topics, to no apparent avail.
Being an artist who displays work online and has a certain reliance on the internet... my images have to be accurate and consistent all the way through. Is there anything I can do to set things back to the way they were before?
I appreciate any help.

eartho - All my images are already converted to the sRGB colourspace by default, as far as I can tell. My images out of camera, the ones I have edited and saved as jpg - I even checked some old images. Through Mode/Convert to Profile, they're all already set to sRGB.
emil emil - Thank you. I will do that in the morning - right now my head hurts and I need my bed.

GT72-2QE Display/Monitor output and colour profile

I recently got the GT72-2QE which has a CMN1735 display panel. My problem is that this is listed as a Generic PnP Device, and when attaching my TV (via HDMI), it's also listed as a Generic PnP device.
I'm using colour profiles (using windows colour management), but both devices are listed as Generic PnP Monitor and the profile is sometimes switched between the two devices. Does anyone else have a similar problem/solution?
I don't really use extended/duplicate displays, only switching, so I thought I'd write a script to enable/disable my HDMI out as and when needed, but when I disable the TV (also listed as a Generic PnP Monitor), both monitors disappear from windows colour profiling.
It's really frustrating, as the panel is so badly calibrated, it needs the colour profile. I've also uploaded it here: <filedropper.com/spydercal> for anyone else if they want it. It was using a Spyder3 with a target of 2.2/6500 (backlight set to 60%). It won't be perfect on everyone's screen, but I'm pretty sure it will get a lot closer.

Quote from: thscbz on 04-December-14, 15:42:50
It's really frustrating, as the panel is so badly calibrated, it needs the colour profile. I've also uploaded it here: <filedropper.com/spydercal> for anyone else if they want it. It was using a Spyder3 with a target of 2.2/6500 (backlight set to 60%). It won't be perfect on everyone's screen, but I'm pretty sure it will get a lot closer.
Thanks for your profile upload but I cannot access the file through the link you provided. Can you put the proper url please ?

Cannot Load Colour profiles

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