Canon 5d Mark ii and Camera Raw in CS3.

Bought a new camera, Canon 5d Mark ii. Cannot open the RAW files. Can open them from my older Canon camera. Not sure which Camera Raw comes with CS3. Not sure if I have to upgrade. If I do need to upgrade to at least CS4 that may be doable. Otherwise OR until I do, am I better off just using the Canon software for now? Advice please!!!

That camera was supported for the first time in ACR 5.2, which ran with Photoshop CS4.
If you are not planning on upgrading your Photoshop to CS4 or CS5 right away, you need to download the free, stand-alone Adobe DNG Converter version 5.7 to convert your raw Canon files to DNG raw files first.  Then you will be able to open those DNGs in Camera Raw in CS3.
You should update your ACR in CS3 to version 4.6 ASAP, though.  ACR 4.0 is woefully obsolete and nobody should be running that old version.
Be aware, however, that you will be leaving a lot of image quality behind by staying with that old version of ACR in CS3.  Camera Raw 5.7 (the current and last version for CS4) is light years ahead of ACR 4.x.   ACR 6.1 (currently a Release Candidate) which requires CS5 is even a bit better than ACR 5.7.
ACR 4.x is really old technology.  If you can afford that camera, you most certainly can afford to upgrade to CS5. 
Wo Tai Lao Le
我太老了

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    Camera Raw plug-in | Supported cameras
    Camera Raw-compatible Adobe applications
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    4.1
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    8.3
    Photoshop CS5
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    Photoshop CS4
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    HI
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  • Do I need to upgrade both LR 5.7 and Camera Raw 8.7 to import files from Canon 7dMark2?  or is LR 5.7 enough or is camera raw 8.7 enough

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  • Dark pictures with canon 5d mark 3 and 600ex flash, night indoors in Auto Mode and flash on.

    I have purchased a new canon 5d mark 3 and speedlight 600ex-rt flash. While testing it indoor at night , the room lights are on and I was using the Auto Mode with Flash on. The pictures are Dark with the Flash on and when the flash is turned off the pictures are brighter. I am confused. How to get the AUto mode working with the Flash on.

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    Due to laws of physics (the inverse-square law), light has "fall off".  It's not actually possible to use a single light source and expose a large room with that single light.  Either the subject is nicely lit but everything else will probably be too dark.  OR... the background is nicely lit but the subject is heavily over-exposed.  (BTW, there are two ways to get around this.)
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    If you switch to "Program" mode, it essentially works like automatic mode EXCEPT it will actually allow you to override settings or set compensations.  
    When you use a flash in a room with some ambient lighting (but otherwise dimly lit) there's a technique called 'dragging the shutter' (which the camera can actually do for you somewhat automatically).
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    The camera is going to evaluate the exposure needed for the room as though you don't have a flash... and it'll set the camera settings accordingly.  However... since it knows you have a flash, it'll still perform the E-TTL II exposure metering and will use the flash anyway.  What you end up with is a shot that has a nicely exposed primary subject (because the camera used flash) AND... a nicely exposed background which was primarily illuminated with ambient light -- but looks pretty good because the camera used an exposure that was adequate for the ambient light.
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    Since the flash is a momentary burst of light, if you leave shutter open longer you wont actually collect any more light from the flash (because the flash was providing illumination for only a tiny fraction of a second.  Extending the amount of time that the shutter remains open means the camera will _only_ collect more of the ambient light... and that helps bring up the dark backgrounds.
    One way to get around the flash fall-off problem is to greatly increase the distance between flash and subject.  You still get "fall off" but now the distance you have to change to notice the fall off really increases.  But this method usually isn't very practical because you'll be standing much farther then you'd prefer to be to get the shot.
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    Tim Campbell
    5D II, 5D III, 60Da

  • PSE 9 Organizer and Camera Raw

    I've just updated to PSE 9 from PSE8. What I liked with PSE 8 was selecting a Canon CR2 raw file in Browser CS4, the camera raw window would open where a number of key items could be modified before selecting Open and full editing in PSE 8.
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  • Canon 5d Mark III and Lightroom 4.3 tethered shooting issues.

    I bought a new Canon 5d Mark III and upgraded my lightroom to 4.3.  I have been having issues shooting tehtered.  I'll shoot and get some frames coming in and when I start plugging away the program bar will spin and I'll only get a few grey frames and it just kind of freezes.  I don't know what to do. 

    LR4.3 was supposed to improve Lightroom's built-in tethering, but in my experience it still has some reliability problems - especialy in recovering from broken connections (not just unplugging USB but also if the camera loses power by sleeping or when changing a memory card).
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