Canvus is okay, but real TV, too bright

hi,
i have used the fce4 to edit a family film.
i exported to quicktime and got the .mov file
then i ude idvd to burn the .mov files to the cd. (i choosed pro definitions)
and here comes the trouble:
in viewer, canvus, and timeline, the clips looks fine. but when i took my just burned dvd to the dvd player that's connected to my led widescreen tv, the film looks TOO BRIGHT sometimes.
so what when wrong? is there any way i could correct the settings to make the films look better on tv?
thanks.

TV screens nearly always give brighter images than the brightest computer monitor.
To see exactly what it will look like on a TV, you should have one hooked up to your computer as you edit.
Quite possibly, some of your scenes are over-exposed but this may not be so noticeable on your computer monitor.

Similar Messages

Washed out colors - brightness too bright - fix?

Hello!
Well, I'm currently running a 400 mhz, slot loading, iMac DVSE (spring 2000), equipped with 10.4.8, 512 MB ram, and an 80G hard drive!
However, now that i've upgraded to tiger, and am using this old machine far more, I've noticed that the display looks a bit funky - the colors seem a bit light - particuarly the blacks.
I've used the color calibration app, but although better, the blacks are still way to bright - a sort of dark, charcoal gray. The reason I think it's the brightness is that I have an old CRT attached to my Powerbook that when turned to maximum brightness, has the same gray-blacks. Droping the brightness to around 75% gives the colors their true, deep hues. This is nice, considering my desktop is a rotation of Hubble Space Telescope pics! I have turned down the brightness as far as the displays system pref will allow -but it's too bright.
I know that one of the CRT iMacs has an internal brightness dial somewhere - but I don't remember which model or where it is/how to access. Does anyone know? I'd be a good fix. I'm willing to open up the iMac if neccessary - I need to install a PRAM battery too!
Thanks,
-Dan
PS: When attached to the external CRT, the blacks look great - just like on the Powerbook - so it's not an internal video issue with the iMac that I know of.

Hello!
Yes - PRAM doesn't help.
PRAM batt is dead, has been for a while. I do need one soon...
I'll try a FW drive boot (has 10.4.7 on it), to see if that helps - but it's been bright like this for quite a while. I never really noticed, because before Tiger, all the iMac was used for was a iTunes and OS 9 games playing, weather radar checking machine. Now I'll do work on it during the day - say, when I'm home between classes and need to work on a lab report, but don't want to unpack my powerbook for just one hour. Not only that, but with these space-desktops, the brightness is just more visible. Hmm.... I wonder if I turned up the gamma to far during calibration.... checks
But the question still stands: is there any sort of internal control for brightness? It may have been the tray-loading iMacs that had that.
Thanks,
Dan.

The old calender iOS6, in the year view, it shows how much busy I am in a day by indicating the color intensity. But the new calendar year view is totally useless!!! also too bright!! Why apple does this?? What is the way to revert the calendar back???

The old calender iOS6, in the year view, it shows how much busy I am in a day by indicating the color intensity. But the new calendar year view is totally useless!!! also too bright!! Why apple does this?? What is the way to revert the calendar back???

Unfortunately, that's the way the cookie crumbles nowadays. Sir Jony Ive's GUI design for iOS7 has been met with much skepticism (to say the least). But until the company sees the compelling need for an adjustment or reversal, it "ain't happenin' ". So amble over to the feedback page ( http://www.apple.com/feedback/ ) and make your displeasure known to the company, OR make it known by not purchasing its products. Because as long as the iGadgets continue selling as fast as they can make them, they will see no need for change.
BTW, do note you are NOT talking to Apple here. This is just a user-to-user forum.
Edit: for now, you can also try out any of the alternate calendaring apps available in the App Store.

I have sensory issues. How can I find an external monitor that isn't too bright?

I have sensory issues which make bright lights very painful. Some monitors are too bright to look at. I chose a Macbook Air, in part because Apple allowed me to dim the screen, but I wanted to find an external monitor so I could use the Macbook as a desktop as well as a laptop. I recently tried an Aoc monitor, but it doesn't allow me to dim the screen enough without special software. I would rather not have to use extreme settings [Brightness 0] and special software [Easy on the Eyes] to dim the screen. I had tried comparing brightness in-store, locally, but I guess I couldn't tell because the store was full of bright lights, and because I was wearing sunglasses to cope with the bright lights. Can anyone suggest ways to find better more accessible monitors?

There are two ways. Likely if you have the money, the Apple monitor would likely be the best options since it powers your macbook and other stuff as well. It is expensive though. For a nonApple monitor the feature you are looking for is called backlight level. The brightness control doesn't actually control brightness as might be expected because it modifies the signal. The backlight level however does control the brightness of the backlight itself, like the buttons on a real mac. You won't be able to use the buttons on the keyboard though. So when you go shopping, make the salesman show you this feature in the store in the monitors interface and you should be good to go.
Also, if you are sensitive to bright light, did you know about the ability to assign a single key on the keyboard to invert the screen instantly? I prefer white text on black myself.

Acrobat DC User Interface: Way to Change Theme? (Too Bright)

Just installed Acrobat Pro DC -- an first thing I notice compared to my typical darker themes (Windows, Office, and even previous Adobe product versions) is that the user interface is extremely bright. It's like surfing bright webpages, and hard on the eyes.
Is there any way to darken the UI (Themes, etc.) ?

I have to add my name to this series of complaints...
The new design is appalling. As others have said, it is way too bright with no contrast between documents and interface and no way to skin the UI the way you would like to. Not only that but it fails to remember where you last stored docs, instead featuring an annoying pop up asking me what I want to do next. Coming from the top design software suppliers in the world ( I thought ), you wonder why the team that designed this was not forced to lie on the floor while the rest of the Adobe designers laughed at them.
Seriously, was this designed for a 10 year old occasional user? Take that back a 10 year old would have moved on....
And that ghastly menu which takes up all that space with no contrast. And I know my name, you dont have to include it on the top right.
I really thought XI was a great tool and nice to use. This is a real step back.
Please give us some or all of the following:
A customisable interface
An option to choose an "old-style" Adobe Acrobat XI option if we prefer
The ability to remove annoying features in a proper preferences setting (such as my name - did I mention, I know who I am)
The ability to alter contrast
Advanced settings
etc etc - Everything anyone has said above
And please - if anyone at Adobe actually listens, do NOT take this design and transfer it to your other software.

HP LaserJet 100 colorMFP M175nw scanned images are too bright

Hello!
Is there a way to change scanner's default image color correction as currently all of resulted scanned images (text documents, graphics, photos) are unnaturally too bright?
I had another HP Ink Jet printer also with scanner and all scanned images have good color correction there.
So I think there is a problem with my current one.
Does anyone knows how to fix it?
Thanks.

Hello, Futoji!
Sorry for big delay.
I did what you've told me and now I am wondering about what I see.
1) To scan documents I use both HP Scan and Apple Image Capture with default settings (no color correction).
Well it does not matter, though, because I see bright pictures right after scanning them.
2) I scan documents from flatbed (not feeder), well it is the same for feeder.
3) So, what I noticed was that printer scanned document and printed it almost exactly as it was only using hardware buttons on it.
But when I did scan using both programs above the same document, it was getting too bright to be real... When I printed such scanned image the result was accordingly bad.
So, what I think is that this scanner works differently for hardware buttons and software or applies some filters on the resulted image...
I found 2 similar posts to mine, they are describing the same problem for different printers, but unfortunately they didn't seem to be solved.
http://h30434.www3.hp.com/t5/Scanning-Faxing-and-Copying/HP-Laserjet-DNF-MFP-1536-scanner-washes-out...
http://h30434.www3.hp.com/t5/Scanning-Faxing-and-Copying/F380-problem-with-scanning-too-bright-image...

PRINTER DISPLAY SCREEN ALMOST COMPLETELY WHITE (TOO BRIGHT/FADED/?)

I cannot read the images on my printer’s display (Product HP Officejet Pro 8600 e-all-in-one printer - N911a). The images are there, but barely discernible. I can't put my finger on whether the screen is too bright or too faint, or the images are too light. The display is NOT blank or black (and the HP Troubleshooting solutions to correct those problems have not corrected my problem, ie Hard Power Reset, updated firmware, and adjusted brightness setting), just too bright or too faint. Even with the screen brightness on the darkest setting, I still cannot make out the images. Interestingly enough, at the end of the day yesterday, the screen self-corrected somehow, and was back to a readable display. However, it reverted back to the problem overnight.

Hi busymom51 & otcheryl,
I understand that your issue is not the same as the title of the troubleshooting guide listed above: The Touchscreen Does Not Respond, however the troubleshooting steps are the recommended steps to attempt the resolution. If you followed the steps and the issue is not resolved, try again to update the firmware.
If your 8600 is the N911a, try this firmware update: HP Officejet Pro 8600 N911a Firmware. The printer will need to be connected to a Windows computer via USB for the firmware update.
If the 8600 is the N911g or N911n, use this update: HP Officejet Pro 8600 N911g_n Firmware. The printer will need to be connected to a Windows computer via USB for the firmware update.
If the firmware update does not help the dim display, contacting HP's Technical Support to see about further options for you would be the best option.
If you are calling within North America, the number is 1-800-474-6836 and for all other regions, click here.
JERENDS
I work on behalf of HP
Please click “Accept as Solution” if you feel my post solved your issue, it will help others find the solution.
Click the “Kudos Thumbs Up" to the left of the reply button to say “Thanks” for helping!

Images too bright in PSE, good in Windows Picture Viewer.

Hi:
My question is this, I shot some pictures of my son last weekend, in studio,
with a Nikon D2X camera, and a softbox lightbank mounted on a Balcar
flash head. I set the camera to RAW-JPEG Fine, ISO 100, and used a
Minolta flashmeter to measure the light from the strobe. The reading was
f/8 and 2/3. The images look good in the LCD camera display, but when
I see them in my PC display, they look way too bright in Photoshop Elements 7.0,
but they look fine in the Windows XP SP3 Picture Viewer.
Why is this?. If I adjust the contrast and brightness in PSE, then they look too dark
when I check them in Windows Picture Viewer...
Also, the highlights look a little burned out in both, PSE and Windows Picture Viewer,
but the problem looks more evident in PSE. This happens often when I shoot pictures
using strobe lights.
Can you help me with this two problems?.
I have attached one of the pictures so you can take a look at it.
Thanks.

As to why the photo looks different in PSE than in Windows Picture And Fax Viewer, there are two possibilities:
1. Your display may have a color profile associated with it, either because you calibrated it with a calibrator or a profile was installed by the disk that came with your display. PSE is "color managed" and will adjust the colors of a photo based on the display's color profile, whereas Windows Picture And Fax Viewer will not. If you want fine control over accurate display of colors on your display, you'll need to calibrate it if you haven't already, and you should then only use color-managed programs like PSE to view your photos.
2. The photo you posted indicates that you've set your camera to use the Adobe RGB color space for JPEGs. The Organizer has a bug and doesn't display the thumbnails (even large thumbnails) of such photos correctly. The Organizer's Display > Full Screen (F11) and the Editor do display such photos correctly. I'm not sure if this particular photo will trigger the bug, because of the way Nikon in particular stores color profiles in JPEGs. You could see if you're getting hit by this bug by:
a. Open the photo in the Editor.
b. In the Organizer, make the photo's thumbnail as large as possible (not Full Screen view).
c. Adjust the zoom of the photo in th Editor to be about as large as the one in the Organizer.
d. Use Ctrl Tab to switch quickly between the two. If you see differences, you're encountering the bug.

Images in Bridge CC too bright

Why do my images show almost 2 EV too bright in Bridge CC after filing from PS CC, but have a perferct match when opend on Bridge CS6?

Why do my images show almost 2 EV too bright in Bridge CC after filing from PS CC, but have a perferct match when opend on Bridge CS6?
Either you have set Auto Tone adjustments set in Camera Raw preferences or have created a custom default ACR setting for this file type which is set to overexposed.

Nikon D300s images too bright and interlaced.

So this is my first time shooting and editing video and I'm getting some weird errors.
I'm running Windows 7, and when I view the video files after downloading them from the card, the whites all seem too bright and blown out, no matter which media player I use. When I import the videos into Premiere CS5, the whites are not so blown out and there's detail.
BUT when I'm done editing and save the file as a HD H.264 720p 24fps file, the whites are again blown out AND there's obvious interlacing.
How do I get my whites to not be blown out, and how do I get the output to be deinterlaced?

You've told others on this forum to use professional monitors.
Not everyone has access to a professional monitor. I will never have access to a professional monitor. Not everyone is a video professional and not everyone cares to be one. I just want a video that looks good on YouTube. A professional monitor is not an option.
All I know is that on the same monitor, when playing the originals and the final exported file the whites look noticably more blown out than they do when previewed within Premiere.
The D300s only shoots in progressive, but when I export from Premiere (making sure Progressive is selected) the video looks interlaced.

Monitor too bright

Hi,
I'm re-purposing a quad core 2.8Ghz Mac Pro with Mac OS 10.6.8.
I'm having a problem in that the monitor/screen image is too bright, even with the monitor controls set to minimum.
When I use the monito calibrator in System Prefs, the black/grey/white oval graphic is very very very light and washed out and there's no way I can adjust the monitor to get the black bit black.
This monitors (2 of them) worked perfectly on the G5 it came from, black was black white was paper-white and it worked well for photo editing - printed results were a good match with the image on the monitors. However when I plug them into this MacPro they're virtually unusable.
Window borders, furniture (buttons, tabs etc) and the desktop (Mac OS bits???) seem fine - it's just the inner part of windows (the bit controlled by the application rather than the Mac OS???) that is too biright and wahsed out.
It's as if the graphics card is misbehaving. Is there a way to "reset" the graphics card?
Note; I'm not sure if this actually has anything to do with it - I noticed this happening when I installed Illustrator CS2 (yes, I know, its old) and the installed asked permission to install Rosetta. It may be coicidence that I just noticed it at this stage or it may be the cause. How do I temorarily remove or disable Rosetta?
Both monitors can't suddently have become faulty, so I'm doscounting an issue with the monitors.
Mac OS 10.6.8, Quad 2.8 GHz Mac Pro
Monitors are connected with digital cables direct to the digi ports (no VGA converters)
Many thanks,
G.

Many thanks to both responders. Various points for both:
The graphics card is ATI Radeon HD 2600 XT.
The OS is a fresh install on a newly reformatted main drive. The old OS is on the secon'd drive but has been moved into a separate folder called "Old System".
Apps are all new/clean installs from original disks, then updates applied.
It seems implausible that the drive partitioning system is affecting the video output, is this likely to be the problem?
I know CS2 is old, but I don't have a choice and CS2 was running OK on the PPC Mac and these 2 monitors.
The problem is always present whether I have CS components running or not. Quark 8 is too bright, as is Preview and all other apps.
Does the graphics card have a non-volatile memory for settings? What if it has previously been config'd badly; can it be reset?
Can I uninstall Rosetta to see if this is the issue?
Thnaks again, both.
G.

Final rendering of video is low quality and too bright

Here is the link to my original video clip, the video clip in the project, and the final rendered copy all on my monitor at the same time:
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t63/shadon1nja/FixingRenderQuality_zps124306a5.png
Here is the text of each video when fullscreened screened:
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t63/shadon1nja/RenderText_zpsd1240701.png
The picture got downsised which makes it harder to see the issue,but here is most of the it:
The final copy is lower quality and way too bright. Noticibly too bright. The clean darks turn into rough gray, and the quality is noticibly lower as well. I have checked the "use maximum render quality" and tried exportiing in AVI and MP4, and nothing is fixing it. Any ideas?

First of all, what type of file do you need? If you're looking for lossless quality then I would suggest exporting a quicktime file with the Animation codec or some other lossless codec. However, these type of files are huge and they might not play back on your desktop. But, if you're just going to put this video on the internet when you're finished with it then I would suggest starting with one of the Youtube or Vimeo H.264 presets and modifying it to match your clip. It still won't look as good as your original, but you can't expect miracles when working in SD and exporting to H.264, which is a very lossy codec to begin with. If you want to try exporting to a lossless Quicktime or AVI, then change the settings so they look something like this:

Screen too bright at night

I've just bought a 24" iMac and find the screen far too bright in the evening and at night when I often work. I have the contrast and brightness down to the lowest settings in System Preferences, but the screen remains so dazzling that it hurts the eyes. On my MacBook Pro I can slide the brightness down to black if I want, so why not the iMac - or have I missed something?
All thoughts about solving this problem - or suggestions for software to reduce the brightness - greatly appreciated.

I would like to thank Lenn and Dennis for your suggestions, all of which I have now tried. I've taken so long to respond because I wanted to wait 24 hours - and another night - to see if one is better than another. Changing the screen profile made a very small difference, and at first Brightness seemed to do a better job, but the overall winner in terms of flexibility is undoubtedly Shades, which I'm using right now.
Thanks again, both of you!
Uxenden

Disk Utiltiy in Mac OS X reports okay, but OS 9 says bad

In Mac OS X 10.4.9, I check my Classic (OS 9) hard drive and it says everything is okay.
Then when I boot into OS 9 (on separate HD), and run Disk First Aid, it reports something like "invalid btree header 0,0." I tried to fix, and it reports "fixed okay" but when I run the check again, it fails with same problem.
So, which program is correct? Should I be worried?
Should I copy everything off OS 9 HD into Mac OS X HD, reformat , and copy everything back?

Yes, I know about DW as a last resort, as I've used it in the past when the hard drive is un-mountable...
Anyways, I decided to simply copy my OS 9 files into my Mac OS X folder, re-format my OS 9 HD using Disk Utility and checking "install OS 9 driver" and zero-out data... then I copied my OS 9 files back into that HD.
Then I rebooted into OS 9, and ran DFA and it says "seems okay," no more "invalid btree header." So looks okay now.
Now the next/real question is... how does that error happen in the first place?
I've read that you should only use DFA (disk first aid) on OS 9 HDs, and DU (disk utility) on Mac OS X HD... I know about not using DFA on OS X (HFS-journaled, etc), but didnt realize it might be a problem to use DU on OS 9 to repair/verify, etc...
I guess I should just stop doing that and use either DU or DFA for with its intended OS HD partition.
Andrew

Can i make the setting and keyboard background black ? , because i have vision problem and the white color is too bright and cause pain and headache for me . thanks

can i make the setting and keyboard background black ? , because i have vision problem and the white color is too bright and cause pain and headache for me . thanks

Drmikekuna wrote:
... Sony AVCHD .. Canon SD ... Logitech .. Flip Mino HD. ..
.. Certainly not the best idea for a professional but just fine for a guy who likes to edit for fun.
that's were the fun stops on a MacOs-based system ..
FC/e supports only a few 'standards': DV (as from miniDV cams), HDV (from miniDV devices), AVCHD (from most devices) and with a little trick, described on my website AVCHD-light (720p, as from many compact-stills) ..
done.
some Flips are supported by iMovie, which you can abuse as a converter tool.
but 'non video standard' (=read 'video' as 'in TV') formats, resolutions and codecs ...
a) manual conversion = less convenient
b) loss of 'quality', e.g. when you blow-up tiny 480x320/15fps into video..
FC/e is FC/pros lil' brother.. meant for a more.. adult workflow..
if you like to wrestle with multi-formats, stay with Windows/Magix/..
Windows=options, with a chance of getting lost
MacOs=convenience, with a chance of getting restricted

Canvus is okay, but real TV, too bright

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for