Case/CPU Temps @ Air cooling

Yo guys,
Iam just curious how did you set up your rig ( Only Air cooling ).
And of cause what temperatures you get ....
My setup :
Chieftec midi tower - this is at 3,2 ghz
2 x silent 80mm fans intake at the backside
2 x silent 80mm fans outake at the front side
Zalmann7000cnps aicu
NB msi stock light fan
Idle ( windows desktop )
CPU @ 30c
MB @ 30c
Load ( midnight club 2 or 3dmark)
CPU @ 50-55c
MB @ 39-43c
I dont like my mainboard temps but probably my cpu fan is blowing all the warm temps directly on the mb sensor.

Like alot of people in the first couple of years overclocking/modding PCs, I got a little Fan-Happy. I replaced 6 of the 7 case fans in my Thermaltake case w/ 2 80mm Tornados front (attached to PSU fan RPM control), 2 Aerocool High CFM 80mm side, and 2 Coolermaster High RPM 80mm back. Plus the Zalman 7000 AlCu, and a 120mm on the inside of my Hard Drive cage (otherwise air from front tends to get trapped in the drive cage and not provide any flow toward the rear)
If I trusted the various monitoring sensor apps I'd be very pleased..
CPU 27-33C @ Idle & never beyond 48-50C at full load (except during a couple of heatwaves we in Northern Cali had a while back)
Case is usually in the low to mid 20s except on really hot days, at night it can drop to 18C.
The Thermaltake CPU sensor basically confirmed these temps when I had it attached, but I stll think of them only as a guideline.

Similar Messages

CPU temps/cooling?

So, I finally have gotten my system running, but to say it's unstable would be an understatement. It gives a BSOD on a regular basis. I've downloaded memtest, and it sees no errors in the RAM. I made sure to buy the tested and approved memory for my K8T Master2 FAR. I'm wondering if my CPUs are overheating. After the last BSOD, I went into the BIOS and looked over the temp readings. They were showing about 45 C. Now, this was in the BIOS after a brief cooling off from a memory dump. I wonder what the temp actually is under load. I can't get the system to stay up long enough to actually install the Core monitoring software. I took the side of the case off, and the CPU temps dropped immediately by about 5-6 degrees C (about 10 degrees Farenheit).
So what is a normal idle temp for these processors? Can anyone recommend a good hs/fan replacement for what came with the mobo? At the moment I'm pretty frustrated with the instability. I'm thinking it's heat related, since I've done several clean installs of the OS, with new RAM. I've swapped out vid cards, and disabled all the onboard hardware. It's more than a little annoying at this point. If anyone thinks the problem might be something other than heat, let me know. I'm powering the board with a 380 Watt Antec power supply.

Quote
Originally posted by geerten
The antec 380 may be insufficient. This board takes quite a lot of power, especially on the 12V line. This could explain the instability.
Two thoughts about the temps.
First: with current BIOS'es (up to 1.3b5) and newer revisions of the opteron CPU's you will suffer from "Newcastle syndrome". BIOS and monitoring utilities will show temperatures that are way too high (I've heard 20 deg celsius). To check this feel the heatsink immediately after the system shuts down. If its not very hot than this may be your problem. Because of this the system may initiate shutdown if you have that option enabled in the BIOS. You should disable that option, or configure the shutdown temperature as high as it will accept. .
The system isn't initiating the shutdown. It simply crashes out to a memory error (IRQL, PFL, Thread Release). But about the power supply... I have a Raidmax 400W that I will try on it next. I was wondering if the PSU was sufficient.
Quote
Second: you describe that the temperature drops fast after opening the case. This could be an indication that airflow in the closed case is insufficient. Try running it with the case open for a while and check the temperatures. (not too long, because the cooling of other components may suffer..) If this is your problem the usual fixes are: check the directions of the case fans, remove cables out of the way, make sure th CPU fans are not obstructed.
Good luck.
As of yet, it hasn't crashed while running with the case open.... not that I recall anyway.

Correct CPU temp for a P4 3.06 with & w/out water cooling

What is the correct CPU temp for a P4 3.06?
and also what should the temp show for a P4 3.06 running
an Innovatek Water Cooling System
Many thanks,
Acinom

Thanks for all the great info!!
I am running idle (cpu) at btw 44c and 46c. When I installed a game (quake) and then played it my temp rose to 52c. So I guess I am ok right now. I would like it to run a little cooler however.
I am running Innovatek -
CPU block
Northbridge Block
Video Card water block
2 HD blocks
Innovatek Konvekt -O-Matic passive water cooling heat dissipation: over 4 pounds and 13 1/2 inches long by 9 inches high
Also I am using the NEW Nanotherm PCM+ on all blocks (cpu, gpu, northbridge)
All the blocks are smooth, no leaks. I am using an Eheim 2011 pump which also holds over 1000ml reservoir AND I have a tank-o-matic 280ml reservoir. I am using distilled water with the Innovatek conditioner (2 bottles equaling about 30% ratio). I have two fans in the system.
The only temp I can gauge is my CPU. I do not know how to check my GPU or Northbridge temps although I would like to know how, please. My ambient room temperature is around 72 to 74 degrees.
http://home.houston.rr.com/acinom/

Up to date K7N2 Delta2 CPU temp query

Hi all, just installed my first MSI board, K7N2 Delta 2 with a Sempron 3000+ chip that I previously had installed in an Asrock K7VT4A pro. Anyway, it's the old "oh heck the CPU temp has gone up to....." one. Idle on the Asrock was around 42 - 45 c, on the K7N2 its 50c. After initial panic (after all, op range is quoted as 0 - 95c for the processor) I removed and reinstalled the cooler with a new thermal pad for no change in reported temp, and flashed the bios to 11.5/B5 - again for no change in reported temp.
The ASROCK doesn't have that little tongue thing sticking-up under the socket (sorry if I'm getting too technical for some of you here) so I'm guessing that it is taking its reading from the socket, in which case the higher reading on the K7N2 is to be expected, but I'm a little confused between all the temp reporting revisions mentioned in the forum for the different bios levels. Is 50c with BIOS 11.4 and 11.5 OK or has the reading been revised down in these levels, in which case it's high, or has it been revised down and then up again, in which case it's OK
I'm running Sempron 3000+, no OC, 1G Crucial in 2x 512 sticks, Akasa AK-827RD rated for XP 3400+, akasa thermal pad, in a Coolermaster Centurion 530 with 2 x 120 mm case fans. CPU fan is running at 2445 reported by Core Center in manual mode. PSU is AKASA Powermax 460. Case is tidy with cables fastened back for good airflow.
TA much
Andi

Hey folks, thanks for the responses.
CPU is correctly installed, I even had a moment of anxiety about this yesterday and reinstalled it to check.
Fans are maxed, I set Core Centre to manual and maxed the CPU and NB fans. The Smart fan settings in bios are disabled.
Tower is under desk, desk is actually a table so no solid sides nor back to restrict airflow. The Centurion is a good cool case, taking the side off makes virtually no difference and system temp is showing as a decent and consistent 25 - 27 c (room is 21c).
Everything except the mobo is the same as it was with the Asrock, even the position under the table. I even checked in case I had rammed any of the fan connectors on the wrong way and was blowing in reverse (that sucks!). For the record, the front system fan is sucking air in, the rear system fan is blowing out, the PSU is blowing air out of the back of the case, the CPU and NB fans are blowing air onto the board, and the CPU fan has a duct to a vent in the side panel to help it bring in cool external air.
I just ran the machine for a couple of hours at 98 - 100 % CPU by running a bunch of audio tracks in Cubase with plugins on every track and the temp has remained steady at an indicated 58 - 59c. My idle CPU rate is around 2% (these figures from Task Manager).
I'm still intrigued by the 41c indicated at boot after overnight cooldown, has anyone done this or would anyone care to do it and share the bios temp reading, I literally hit the power switch then del, straight into bios and then directly to the hw / health tab.
Incidentally, I thought that all Sempron 3000+ CPUs were Bartons (I know the MSI list says Thoroughbred but I thought they were all 512kb L2 Cache chips - anyways, mine is apparently a Power PC 604, x86 family 6, model 10, stepping 0, so I figure Barton?). Barton op temp is quoted as being 0 - 95c by AMD, and confusingly elsewhere AMD quotes max temp as 90c - in either case I have a bit of spare range. I'm running it with an ext clock of 166, auto multiplier and it's giving me 2166mhz.
Again, thanks to all; I know that this is pretty well a "done to death" subject and I really do appreciate the help.
Andi

"Easy" way to lower MEGA 180 CPU Temp

Let me start off by saying I haven't done this yet but I think it would work. I built a Mega 180 based machine for a customer and have had nothing but problems with it. I got a call from her last night to tell me that the CPU temp on the display is in the 70 C range and she is getting nervous about it (frankly, so am I). I'm picking up the PC from her in a few days to see if I can lower the CPU temp any. Here's what I'm thinking of doing:
1) Since I already lapped the bottom of the heatsink and used Artic Silver thermal grease, there's nothing else I can do in that area. It's already optimal.
2) The heatsink is 100% copper with lots of cooling fins. There isn't a better thermal material for a heatsink, within reason. Aluminum is no good. Basically, the design of the heatsink is good, but not perfect. First, why they would design the sink to suck hot air off of the video card and blow it through the fins is beyond me. Naturally, the CPU will never be cooler than the air that's being used to cool it. The heat sink needs fresh, cool air.
3) To provide the heatsink with fresh cool air I plan on first, turing the big fan on the sink around so it blows out, not in. Second, I plan on replacing the little fan with a bigger fan and position it so it blows in, not out. Then I plan on making a short duct that attaches over the fan on the right (with the front of the PC facing you) and extend the duct a few inches to the right so it is less than an inch from the side of the case. Lastly, I plan on using some lexan and making a very small deflector to put on the heatsink's exhaust fan. It will be about 1/2 inch wide and as long as the fan (80mm?). It will be tilted at a 45 degree angle. The deflector will channel the hot air away from the video card and towards the front left side of the case. This will avoid trading one heat problem (CPU) for another (video card).
If all goes well, a drop of 10 C under maximum load should be achieved. I'll let you know how this turns out.
I may also try the following:
1) Buy some RAM heat sinks and using thermal glue, glue them to the hard drive.
2) Position a 40mm fan so it blows on the heat sinks on the hard drive.
3) Position another 40mm fan so it blows across the chipset's heat sink.

god damn thats a great idea, why didnt I think of that
I lapped my heatsink last weekend, the hardware store where i got my sand paper didnt have any grid over 600 so I had to settle with that. But I'm still pleased with the results. I figured that that plus some some Artic Silver 5 would get me a bit on my way.
I would have documented it with my camera if the batteries just wasnt out :/
At the same time I installed a "silent" 15db@1500rpm 80x80mm Everflow fan on the left side of the case (when facing the front) that blows the air in. All of these efforts improved the temperature just a bit. The noise increased a bit but it isnt all that much trouble consithering I've spent my last couple of months with my ears next to a server that has the lovely sound level of around 60db (note: no case fans on the server at all)
As I recall the idle temperature used to be over 60c and now it sometimes drops below 50c. But most of the times its around 53-55c (all of this is at around 25c ambient temperature). But the heat problem while gaming is still a huge problem. When it hits around 70 the computer crashes.
But before my efforts to do something about it, it would die within 10min of high load. Now it can take up to about an hour (depending on how the ambient temperature is).
Next up I think I'm gonna try out your idea. Switch the fans, and maybe even install another Everflow fan having 4 fans totaly pulling the air through the case (but from right to left this time :P)
why call it MSI Entertainment Gaming Applicance if you cant entertain yourself by gaming on it ? =P
/Wezz

Case fans ? Air in or out (Case suggestions ?)

Maybe this is a stupid question.
But because of my high CPU temps i was beginning to think that maybe i had installed all my fans the wrong way
About case fans. Should they be installed so they draw cold air into the case or push hot air out ?
I ask because i was in another Dansih forum where thay was talking about a new case with a 125cm (Big) slow fan in the side,
and the guys said it should draw cold air into the case instead of pushing hot air out... mmm
Normally hot air should be pushed out, right ??? or
Second. How can you if the fan blow or sucks air ?

I have a windowed case, so when I see some dust in the window, I do open the case and clean everything that have dust, and this is every 2 weeks, or less... :D
I understand that if you have overpressure inside the case and use filters with every fan, in the same period of time you will end with less dust inside than with underpressure, because the air will not enter through every hole of the case, but if you do not use filters (as I don't) the resulting dust in the case will be more or less the same.
I don't like filters because they greatly reduce the airflow produced by the fans, so I prefer to clean the case more often.
And about "getting as much hot air out of the box as possible", I have to say that I've tried with a big 38 x 120 mm rear exhaust fan of 103 CFM (the noise was unbereable !!) and the case temperature was the same as with the stock 25 x 120 mm fan that has much lower CFM, so every solution has its limits. I think that is very important to extract the hot air from the case, but nothing is more efficient than a direct and fresh airflow over the device to cool. I have 2 x 80 mm front fans that flows directly over my two hard drives, and they are currently at 29 and 24 ºC (the Samsung is amazingly cool), and even in summer the temperatures are barely higher.
Anyway is very difficult to find the best setup with a given case/fans configuration. I have another 80m fan in the side window, and when I've inverted the airflow (stock was in exhaust mode) the processor temperature dropped 2 ºC, but in the same time the motherboard temperature unexpectedly raised 2 ºC. I leave the side fan flowing air inside the case, but I can't understand why the motherboard temperature is higher.

Relation Between System Temp & CPU Temp

Hi all,
with 4 (2 in, 2 out) pabst case fans, and 1 out-of-the-box cpu cooler, i get these temp readings (Celsius) in SpeedFan:
Idle: System 39, CPU 44
(Outside temp 22)
My question: Any use taking care of the CPU temp (Zalman / Arctic Silver etc) if i cannot get that system temp down?
And what can i do to get thet system temp down? I really don't want to trade in my pabst fans (really silent....)
Thanx,
Harold

Hi Harold,
Temps are good
Check you do not have UNIT in a corner, with no where for the exhaust air to run to......ie cycles back into case and increases temp....
Depends on noise level.....also....Intel Stock are good, but temps run about 5-15 above custom, there is also the amount of thermal paste you apply.......just enough to cover the pits between cpu and cooler unit .... ideal would be mirror finish to both cpu top and cooler unit.......
I don't trust thermal pads......buy some thermal grease....NOT paste!!!
I know this will help
Del

Actual vs. PCAlert CPU temps

I've heard it bandied about (hows that for a seldom used phrase :P ) that the actual temp the CPU is running at is 10 degrees celsius lower than the temp reported by the board via PCAlert? Has this supposition actually been proven with a probe, or tested by nVidia? Or is it just a theory thats been given credence?
I seem to be running at about 43 C with Winamp and IE active, and Im wondering how much headroom I really have.

If your case support it, add an exhaust fan close to CPU, that should help somewhat.
Have been perfecting my airflow for some time now, and i must say that the XP (palomino core) do build up heat fast enough that it becomes a problem to went it from a medium sized tower case.
I have opened up the small vents on the left side of the case and have put a fan on the inside that sucks in air in the lower part of the case. I have added a fan that wents hot air from the case besides the CPU. And then i have my PSU with two fans that sucks hot air out of the case.
Too cool my Ti 4200 i added a card-cooler, but that added more noise than it had any practical effect.
My CPU temp now max out at 50C and lies at 42C idle.
In general, electronics do not like temperatures above 60C, but the Athlon XP is rated to survive at least 90C.
Btw, i have a 5U213C1H3G model Heatsink from http://www.fanner.com, that i have modified to accept a tre point catch-clip. With some arctic silver 3 it do its job very well. However the fan that comes with the heatsink uses a RPM feedback signal that the K7N420 Pro can not read correctly, so turning of Fan warning is critical. It transmitts the heat to the air in the case very effectively, but getting that air out of the case is another story
I probably should mention that i do not overclock either, i do not see much point to it anymore. There is few applications that really can use all the computing power of a modern CPU above 1.0 Ghz, and those that can use it is the type that you do not want to risk corrupted data or misscalculations in.
However, overclocking in the past have been great fun
I was one of the first (at least in sweden, to my knowledge) to overclock the 68030 on my Amiga 1200s turbo card, my AMD 5x86, and my MMX166 that was one of the first batch to reach resellers here in sweden. It should be noted that MMX166 has run at 166Mhz for about five minutes, then it has been 225Mhz since then (all the two or three years it was used).
It was great fun.

Mac Pro 2.66 (2006) CPU Temps

It's been a while since I took a look at the my temps and what not using Hardware Monitor but the other day I reached behind my Mac Pro... it seemed to me that it was awfully warm... so it peeked my curiosity...
Today I checked and my CPU temps are all around 135F... as I said, it's been a while since I looked but I seem to remember them being sub-100F at idle...
Am I not remembering correctly?
Thoughts?
Thanks!
-Justin

See if installing SmcFanControl 2.2+ to create profiles and change default fan speed works, changes the fans.
Rather than wait for the system to heat up, switch to a higher rpm profile for that purpose, say 900-1000 rpm is still just barely audible but moves much more air and cooling. 1200-1500 for high.
Once the fans kick in, or cpus are under a work load, it can end up being cooler than it was.
The new 2009s with HT can be forced to use more power, create more heat. For 2006, the big issue is/was the ATI X1900 and clogging with dust and overheating, which needs to be pulled and cleaned every 3 months.

Can a bubble in thermal paste make CPU temp range 39ºC-60ºC?

Hello.
I've read the postits above and they say 45 ºC idle is very likely the heatsink spreader is not properly seated or the temperature is wrong.
But, what if idle temp is about 39 on the heatsink (meassured with a termometer) and the bios says CPU temp is 39? Does that mean I did well with thermal paste and heatsink? Does that mean the motherboard is reading the righ temperature?
It could look like I am asking a very easy question, but I feel it is not. Just go on reading.
I need to know if BIOS does actually provide the rigth temp because:
When the system heats up due to CPU under heavy load, CPU temp goes up to 50-55 ºC sometimes even close to 60 ºC. Could that mean there is an air bubble within the thermal paste but it is too small to interfere when cold enough (40ºC) but big enough when warm (50ºC) lowering heatsink performance and rising CPU temp up to 60 ºC?
Also sys temp is very high. It never gets below 50 ºC but I do not know where that sys temp is taken, and as I have the NB-fan connector conected to the power supply fan, I do not know what that sys temp means. :(
Room temp is around 25 ºC.
It does boot OS and I can actually play games (heavy load for graphics card and CPU). All readings I take were got from CoreCenter application at stock settings (Vcore 1.42 - FSB 201 - Mem volt 2.5 - AGP volt 1.5).
I am afraid of having done a nice job with thermal paste. I know (just read it here) I could easily fry the CPU if not, and I feel 55-60 ºC is too much, isn't it? Of course if BIOS readings are right.
BTW. Here follow details on the system:
CPU: AMD 64 3000+ NewCastle
CPU Family/Model/Step: 15.12.0
Thermal compound: Artic Silver 5
CPU Heatsink: Thermaltake Silent Boost K
Motherboard: MSI K8N Platinum
Motherboard BIOS: 1.4 (08/26/2004)
Graphics Card: Sapphire ATI Radeon 9800 SE AIW (not modded in any way)
Power Supply: Enermax 465 W [EG-465AX-VE(W)FMA]
Case: Lian Li PC-V1000
Mem, hdd, dvd-rw, floppy and D-bracket are present but did not feel necesary to provide details on them.
Thanks

Well, if your heatsink is cold and your CPU temp on BIOS is hot there are two possible reassons:
[list=1]
BIOS 1.4 does not guarantee accurate CPU temp readings
Heatsink is not properly seated on the CPU or thermal paste has bubbles within[/list=1]
But that is not my situation. I do know CPU readings are accurate when it shows 39 ºC because I actually used a termometer in contact with the heatsink to meassure it.
What I am not sure is if that accuracy is so when the CPU is hot (>50ºC) as it is when cold (

MBP 2.33GHz Core 2 Duo, CPU temp constant 90 degrees C at high load

I have a 2.33GHz Core 2 Duo MBP. Not sure which chipset, but not Santa Rosa. I'm still running 10.5.2 because I don't want to stop the process I'm running at the moment.
Anyhow, I'm running both CPUs at full load, and the program I'm running is very SSE-heavy. iStatPro reads the CPU as running at 90 degrees C with the fans running at about 3800RPM. It's been running like this for several days straight because this is the fastest compute hardware I own. I have three PC case fans pointing at the notebook, so the exterior is relatively cool, as are the other temp readings, but the CPU temp makes me nervous. Various things I've read suggest that about 85C isn't so healthy for the processor. Is that true?
I did try calling Apple Care, but they basically blew me off, suggesting I use external cooling. I could take it to the Genius bar, but that'll be a good 3 hours of my time, so I need to make sure it's worth it.
Comments?
Thanks.

See this article regarding runaway applications:
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=304882
and use that technique to make sure that no other heavy applications are crashing the party. There will be a number of smaller system apps and processes running; you're looking for a big hitter that you did not want.
I hear that the MBP is good for 100°C/ 212°F. I'm a little surprised that you're getting only 3800 rpm at 90°. Fans should be able to turn up to 6000 rpm. You may wish to download smcFanControl.
I use that program to increase the resting rpm from 2000 to about 2500 to give a head-start on any heat issues. At 2500, the fans are not noticeable unless I put my ear an inch from the the computer. The program also has a quick-change setting that lets you quickly bump the fan speed to the max of 6000 if things get too hot too fast.

Getting Device Properties like OS,Model,Brand,SDK,Version and CPU on Air for Android

Hi there,
I just wanted to share this old blog post in case no one knew about this here (like i didn't). I have no affiliation with this person, i just think its great!
Getting Device Properties like OS,Model,Brand,SDK,Version and CPU on Air for Android
http://www.funky-monkey.nl/blog/2010/11/11/getting-device-properties-like-os-model-brand-s dk-version-and-cpu-on-air-for-andoid/
I was able to correctly identify DroidX and Motorola Xoom family edition in my test, with no ane, pretty cool!

Okay. I've found an answer:
yes, you can and have to add these icons via the descriptor file, since flash wont let you. But before you do that, go into the "Air publish" settings in flash. Here, right on page 1, there is the "include files" section. Add your icon pngs there. Hit OK and exit these settings. Now open the descriptor with an editor outside of flash and write in the files like I posted above. Close. Save. Make it write protected. No go to flash and publish.

Worried about CPU temp

I've been having graphic issues with my MSI Gf4 and MSI KT4VL, and its come to my attention that my CPU temp is 72. I know thats way too high and could possibly be a cause of my problem. What should i get to cool down my CPU, bearing in mind its an AthlonXP 2100+?
Psymon 8o

PSYmon
I have the xdream and it works good. It can go as hi as 4800 rpms but yep it makes allot of noise. I flashed my bios to 1.8 and turned on the CPU HALT option and turned down the fan to 3500 rpms. With the xdream and thermal grease(Im not using paste, that way I can spread the grease out more over the heat sink and not worry about shorting out something) I am running my cpu temps at 33 to 37 using everyday tasks and up to 47C under a load such as games. Also I dont have any case fans as of yet, only the case side cover is off. Oh yea, my FSB is Overclocked also.
Hope that gives you a better idea what your system should do with the HSF.

PowerMac G5 DP CPU temps?

Hello all,
I am curious to get some feedback in regards to CPU temperature of the PowerMac G5s out there and whether or not I have an issue with my machine and should take it in to the Apple Store.
I have my processor performance set to 'Highest' to minimize the fans going into overdrive (aka 'takeoff mode!").
At idle, my CPU temps read:
CPU A: 57.2/135.0 (ºC/ºF)
CPU B: 69.6/156.2 (ºC/ºF)
However, if I start taxing the system they jump up considerably, and there is an even greater gap between CPU B's temp over CPU A.
These are the extremes I have gotten when running the processors at 100%:
CPU A: 64.4/148.0 (ºC/ºF)
CPU B: 88.7/191.7 (ºC/ºF)
As you see, it jumped from 12ºC warmer up to 24ºC. Is this a serious issue to worry about? I have cleaned out the case and checked for any coolant leaks of which there are none visible. From other research online, it seems normal for the temps to be off +/-5ºC, usually with A being warmer than B.
Would a Thermal Re-calibration at the Genius Bar help things? I would just like to check others experiences and see if this is something I should pay closer attention to and in more detail.

Thank you for the links. It does seem like it's going to run a minimum of $800 just for the processor anywhere I look. What worries me about that is still having the liquid cooled system and the many issues I have be reading about lately with them.
As a designer, actually I have had LCD monitors for over 4 years now at every job I have had. I also use an LCD at home. I actually prefer them. I know there are color differences, but they have come such a long way that I'd hate to go back to a CRT again, so big and bulky. Again, this is just my personal preference.
I do love my PowerMac which why I am disappointed with the issues I've had with it. Not little issues either, the most expensive issues. Plus, with the new OS Snow Leopard possibly dropping the PowerPC line, I'd rather be looking ahead versus treading water with another used PowerMac, even if I could save and reuse all the extras I've put into it.
The more research I do, the more I am leaning towards the iMac 3.06GHz model and max it out to 4GB with aftermarket RAM. As long as I can get 1-2 working years out of it, I can then hand it down to my wife and then make another serious investment into a new MacPro.
I know you can't expand the iMac, other than adding more RAM, possibly putting in a larger HD. Although I have a 160GB in my G5 that I use maybe half of. I also have a LaCie 250GB external where I store most all of my things, so a 500GB internal on the iMac would be plenty for me right now.
As she is a very basic user (internet, music, word processing, etc.) she would still have plenty of computer after it being only 2 years old. She uses my 6 year old Ti PowerBook G4 now and it suits her just fine. (+mini rant here+...how is it my laptop which has traveled many miles has lasted twice as long as my more expensive chained to a desk in a controlled environment machine!?)
As she is finishing school working on her RN degree, I think the iMac is the best case scenario for now (very limited budget) and then when we can save up the extra cash, I'll just get a whole new system. Plus I'll be able to use her to get a student discount and save a few bucks and get a free iPod touch!
As for the Mac Genius, he told me it would cost $85 to run diagnostics as I was out of warranty. He ended up not running any as he told me based on everything I had done and the results I had gotten from my own hardware test, it would only indicate the same results there and doing the re-calibration would not fix anything.

Cpu temp sensor burned

Hello all,
K7T 6330 V.3 with 1.3 Athlon
I recently changed my HSF to a presumably better unit than the one that came with teh CPU.
It ended up not cooling any better but running a bit hotter.
I removed all of the components I no longer used (old NIC, bad CDROM) to help air flow but after a few reboots to test the temp I smelt burning plastic.
I found that the CPU temp sensor inside the CPU socket was burned and now I only get red LEDs. The CPU and socket look fine. No debris of burn marks.
Anyway, if the sensor is burned to make an open circuit or shorted somehow, would this completely kill the mobo?
I mean, if ONLY the temp sensor circuit was fried, would this prevent the entire board from functioning?
thanks,
js

Yeah. Sorry if I wasn't clear on that part. The CPU definitely scorched the sensor. I may have inadvertantly pulled it up a little when replacing the CPU, only way it could have happened.
thanks,
js

Case/CPU Temps @ Air cooling

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