Change dimensions of 'high resolution photos' for digital printing

Hi,
We recently placed a huge order, received our photos, and all of them had been blown up larger than what appeared in the album, heads were cut off, arms cut off, pictures were not centered. This was a problem for 4"by6" size, 5"by7", and 8"by10". When we inquired as to why and we were told that because we used 'high resolution' that the photos would come out larger no matter what company we used to process the digital prints. We were told that we could change the dimensions of each photo (squashing the photo to fit) but we don't know how to do that. Also, is there a way to do this to all of the photos at the same time?
Please explain, we don't know what to do at this point.
We're very sad right now.

The company already told me that they will refund my money so that is not the problem.
The ratio differences is what the person told me initially too, however told me that I could also change the dimensions so that the photos would not be cropped and centered automatically...but that's not what I want to do, as it would leave white space on the sides and top, and I have several that I want to frame.
So what do I do now? I have 100's of pictures and over 90% of them have this problem. I used your software to enhance the photos, crop the photos, etc... but I don't see an area that explains to me what part of the image will be cropped out once they are sent out to print. Nor to I see an area that gives me a rectangular dimension to work from. If I have to crop these pictures to get them to turn out right, I need to get started on this right away.
When I print these on my own printer they seem to print just fine. There are too many to print this way, however.

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Stefan H

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Best regards,
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Please remember to mark the replies as answers if they help, and unmark the answers if they provide no help. If you have feedback for TechNet Support, contact [email protected]

Is it possible to add high resolution photos to an ipad2 without synchronising it?

Hi,
I'm looking in to offering potential clients an ipad with all their wedding photos pre loaded, but is it possible to add photos without synchronising each ipad to my mac? When I first got my ipad2, I couldn't use it for anything until I had connnected and registered it with Apple........I have got the camera connection kit, but haven't found a workaround for adding photos without synchronising yet?
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The first thing that currently needs to be done with a new iPad is to activate it by connecting it to a computer that is running iTunes - it can't currently be used 'properly' until after that is done. After iOS 5 is released and is pre-installed on iPads then I think that should change and you will no longer need to first connect to a computer.
The camera connection kit can be used to add high-resolution photos to the iPad, unlike syncing via iTunes where the photos get 'optimised' by the transfer process. If adding the photos to the SD card yourself then you need to create a DCIM directory off the root of the card with the photos underneath it, and the photo filenames need to be exactly 8 characters long (no spaces) plus the file extension i.e. in a similar format as if a camera had created/written them
Otherwise there are third-party apps such as Simple Transfer which can copy photos to/from the iPad from your computer via your wifi network. But photos transferred this way will only go into the Saved Photos/Camera Roll album in the Photos app, not into a 'proper' album - and until iOS 5 is released and installed you won't be able to move the photos between albums on the iPad : from http://www.apple.com/ios/ios5/features.html#photos :
Even organize your photos in albums - right on your device
Also a problem with syncing photos to the iPad via iTunes is that they then need to be on the other person's computer when they then connect to it - otherwise the photos are likely to be removed from the device. Photos copied via the connection kit or copied via third-party apps shouldn't have that problem.

High resolution photos. How to?

I need to e-mail high resolution photos. What is the best way to do this from an iMac, iPad, iPhone?
thanks!

If for business, uploading to an FTP site rather than e-mailing is the most efficient if teh recipient has one. My editor's email limits him to a small total size fo attachments that is almost always less than my copy and images, but the magazine has an ftp (file transfer protocol) site that is not picky about file size.
You normally use a separate ftp client program on your computer. I use CyberDuck because the publisher recommended it, but I don't think current versions will run on the pre-2006 iMac this forum covers.
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If you elaborate on which iMac variant you have and what Mac OS version you run, we may come up with more targeted recommendation. Right now we're all guessing.

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bogiesan

Since syncing with iCloud all my photos in my photo app are much lower resolution than they were before. Can anyone explain what happened an how I might get back my high resolution photos?

Since syncing with iCloud all my photos in my photo app are much lower resolution than they were before. Can anyone explain what happened an how I might get back my high resolution photos?

Thanks again.
Unfortunately I don't have iPhoto (running Windows).
I did, however, figure out a work-around.
I created an empty directory on my computer, and told iTunes to "Sync Photos from..." that empty directory. This deleted all the photos from the iPod (go figure).
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I cannot import high resolution photos into iPhoto on iMac

iphoto shuts down when I try to edit a high resolution photo imported into the application.
these are scanned photos at a resolution higher than 600 dpi.

Sometimes it does not get imported, other times it does and when I try to edit with the quick fixes it crashes.
Below the latest crash.
The photo is scanned with a multifunction Canon MG6250 in color at the highest resolution.
In preview the photo is displayed well and editing is allowed, but with iPhoto crashes.
Thanks for any tips,
A.Becker
Process:         iPhoto [2829]
Path:            /Applications/iPhoto.app/Contents/MacOS/iPhoto
Identifier:      com.apple.iPhoto
Version:         9.4.1 (9.4.1)
Build Info:      iPhotoProject-701067000000000~10
App Item ID:     408981381
App External ID: 11126036
Code Type:       X86 (Native)
Parent Process: launchd [135]
User ID:         501
Date/Time:       2012-10-08 22:08:10.309 +0100
OS Version:      Mac OS X 10.8.2 (12C54)
Report Version: 10
Interval Since Last Report:          71315 sec
Crashes Since Last Report:           7
Per-App Interval Since Last Report: 23839 sec
Per-App Crashes Since Last Report:   5
Anonymous UUID:                      9DE68FB6-5438-1404-620F-369B6046F98C
Crashed Thread: 3
Exception Type: EXC_CRASH (SIGABRT)
Exception Codes: 0x0000000000000000, 0x0000000000000000
Application Specific Information:
*** error for object 0x97d962f4: pointer being freed was not allocated
Thread 0:: Dispatch queue: com.apple.coreimage.CIImageProvider_isolation
0   libsystem_kernel.dylib                  0x9066f7d2 mach_msg_trap + 10
1   libsystem_kernel.dylib                  0x9066ecb0 mach_msg + 68
2   com.apple.proxtcore                     0x020231c3 -[XTRunLoopThread waitForSynchReply:] + 110
3   com.apple.proxtcore                     0x0201236d -[XTThread sendLocalMessageSynch:destThread:] + 189
4   com.apple.geode                         0x010bbeee -[DGImageIOFactory cache:cacheStore:onFulfillRequest:intoPageRef:] + 643
5   com.apple.proxtcore                     0x0202e2aa -[XTCacheFactory cache:cacheStore:fulfillRequest:intoPageRef:] + 1128
6   com.apple.proxtcore                     0x0202cee0 -[XTCacheBroker cacheStore:fulfillRequest:intoPageRef:] + 65
7   com.apple.proxtcore                     0x020348f9 -[XTCacheStore newObjectForRequest:] + 497
8   com.apple.proxtcore                     0x0202c527 -[XTCache newObjectForRequest:] + 43
9   com.apple.geode                         0x010f516a -[DGCachedTileImageProvider provideImageData:bytesPerRow:rect:] + 904
10 com.apple.geode                         0x0109007b -[DGImage provideImageData:bytesPerRow:rect:] + 73
11 com.apple.geode                         0x010facee -[DGImageBackedImageProvider provideImageData:bytesPerRow:rect:] + 82
12 com.apple.geode                         0x010fb173 -[DGImageProvider provideImageData:bytesPerRow:origin::size::userInfo:] + 78
13 com.apple.CoreImage                     0x98373fd4 provide_tile(unsigned long, unsigned long, fe_bitmap_struct*, void*) + 168
14 com.apple.CoreImage                     0x983da4f0 FEUniformSizeTiledBitmap::retrieveTile(unsigned long, unsigned long, unsigned long&, unsigned long&, FETiledBitmapToken_s*&) + 272
15 com.apple.CoreImage                     0x983da213 FETiledBitmap::assembleBitmap(fe_bitmap_struct&, FEFormat const&, CGRect const&, CGRect&, FETiledBitmapToken_s*&) + 1183
16 com.apple.CoreImage                     0x9849f238 -[FEOpenCLContext(Buffer) _textureForBitmap:bounds:target:wrapMode:filterMode:buffer:] + 641
17 com.apple.CoreImage                     0x984a0b88 -[FEContext(Texture) textureForBitmap:bounds:target:wrapMode:filterMode:buffer:] + 351
18 com.apple.CoreImage                     0x983a3b83 -[FEBufferImage _createTextureWithContext:bounds:target:wrapMode:filterMode:buffer:] + 307
19 com.apple.CoreImage                     0x983a9086 -[FEImage(Internal) createTextureWithContext:bounds:target:wrapMode:filterMode:buffer:] + 294
20 com.apple.CoreImage                     0x983c65e3 FETexture::retainTextureObject(FETextureCache*, FEContext*, unsigned int, void*, void (*)(void*, CGRect, FEFormat, void (*)(FEContext*, void*, FEFormat), void (*)(FEContext*, void*), void*), CGRect const*, bool, fe_texture_object_struct**) + 461
21 com.apple.CoreImage                     0x983c7082 FETexture::newTexture(FEContext*, fe_texture_params_struct const*, void*, void (*)(void*, CGRect, FEFormat, void (*)(FEContext*, void*, FEFormat), void (*)(FEContext*, void*), void*), fe_texture_object_struct**) + 996
22 com.apple.CoreImage                     0x983cc2b7 FETreeNode::createTexture(FETreeContext*, unsigned int, unsigned int, bool, bool, FETreeTexture*, unsigned int) + 885
23 com.apple.CoreImage                     0x983ce76d FEApplyTreeNode::render2(FETreeContext*, FEShape const*, void (*)(FEContext*, void*, FEFormat), void (*)(FEContext*, void*), void*) + 719
24 com.apple.CoreImage                     0x983cbd5b FETreeNode::render_(FETreeContext*, FEShape const*, void (*)(FEContext*, void*, FEFormat), void (*)(FEContext*, void*), void*) + 151
25 com.apple.CoreImage                     0x983cbf23 FETreeNode::renderTexture(void*, CGRect, FEFormat, void (*)(FEContext*, void*, FEFormat), void (*)(FEContext*, void*), void*) + 69
26 com.apple.CoreImage                     0x983c6703 FETexture::retainTextureObject(FETextureCache*, FEContext*, unsigned int, void*, void (*)(void*, CGRect, FEFormat, void (*)(FEContext*, void*, FEFormat), void (*)(FEContext*, void*), void*), CGRect const*, bool, fe_texture_object_struct**) + 749
27 com.apple.CoreImage                     0x983c7082 FETexture::newTexture(FEContext*, fe_texture_params_struct const*, void*, void (*)(void*, CGRect, FEFormat, void (*)(FEContext*, void*, FEFormat), void (*)(FEContext*, void*), void*), fe_texture_object_struct**) + 996
28 com.apple.CoreImage                     0x983cc2b7 FETreeNode::createTexture(FETreeContext*, unsigned int, unsigned int, bool, bool, FETreeTexture*, unsigned int) + 885
29 com.apple.CoreImage                     0x983ce76d FEApplyTreeNode::render2(FETreeContext*, FEShape const*, void (*)(FEContext*, void*, FEFormat), void (*)(FEContext*, void*), void*) + 719
30 com.apple.CoreImage                     0x983cbd5b FETreeNode::render_(FETreeContext*, FEShape const*, void (*)(FEContext*, void*, FEFormat), void (*)(FEContext*, void*), void*) + 151

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If you plug up both to computer, open itunes, click "back up to computer" on both (not necessary for the one that's being transferred to) then on the one that's sending data click "back up" in the iTunes menu. It will then back up (if not already done in sync). Now plug up the second one (being transferred to) and on the iTunes menu, click "restore from backup" then choose the device you just backed up, and click "ok" or what it says.
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I was wondering what would be the best way to prepare photos for iPhoto printed book on a Macbook Pro so to achieve the most realistic results to what's on the screen
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Hi,
The situation has changed a little, our original photos are in RAW format and some of them are slightly over saturated in the higher tones.
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Hi Photoshopper,
I have taken 500 photos (in highest resolution, JPG, each ~5 MBytes) and want to crop them individually. With fewer ones I opened eg 30 at once, made my changes (eg cropping) and exported/saved these images via an action. But this method -- esp. opening the files -- took some time even on a "faster" computer, 16 GB RAM.
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1st step: decrease the dimensions of the images (maybe 840 x 540)
2nd: opening eg 60 at once (much faster...)
3rd: editing/cropping picture by picture
and in the last step: let PS do these changes on the original / high resolution images automatically
Are there plugins or other methods (or programs) for doing this?
Few years ago I tried programs like http://ekot.dk/programmer/JPEGCrops/ or http://people.via.ecp.fr/~remi/soft/rphoto/rphoto_en.php3?lid=317
But the handling for selecting the area to be cropped was not very comfortable as it is in PS
Thanks!
mtemp
using version Photoshop CS6

Thanks for your tipps and hints.
I tried my above mentioned programs again. But even it's not possible to crop the files losslessly in Photoshop, I opened just for a minute 54 files of the 500 files (276 MB) in Photoshop for doing it "my old way".
And, yes, I am running the 64 bit version (win7/64).
I tried Lightroom some months ago (or years...) for editing raw files. But, "again", the handling of this program was a mistery for me ... hmm...
Maybe I will take a second look at this program... but not now, with these 54 files opened

Resizing very high-resolution photos?

downsizing photos
i want to make a blurb book using photos professionally scanned at high resolution, 7351×4947 pixels at 5250ppi.
for the book i want to make they should print at 11.25" and not more than 300ppi.
when i downsize them (using image > image size) to that, they are still 21.9M, but are not supposed to be more than 10M.
what’s the best way to downsize them further without messing them up?

As Lundberg02 suggested, you might want to try resampling your image. You can do this by going to "Image > Image Size," and changing the Resolution option.

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Hi Marian.
Thanks for the excellent link. And I believe it is spot on.
***Warning: This is an off topic rant. And it's over 500 words.***
I did not get my first computer until 2001. Although I am a scientist at heart (university trained in chemistry and physics), and quite comfortable with technology, there was something deep within me that was resistant to buying a computer. Almost an inner foreboding. Even though I had already been using corporate computer nets (not the internet) since 1979, the PC seemed ominous to me.
And the internet seemed even more ominous. To the point that I didn't hook up to the web until 2006. I had a sense that the web was a double edged sword, and had the potential to diminish its users. Even though I had never been on line and had very little idea of what it was really all about. What I found was what I feared. A wasteland punctuated by oases of useful information. A wasteland in the literal sense. For every second saved on the task at hand, a minute is wasted by the distractions that bombard us on the way to saving that second.
I'm not saying that the web is bad. Just that it's fraught with danger. And the worst danger is the notion that a concrete answer to every question is just a Google away. And with that, the odieous notion that every question can be answered comprehensively in one quarter of an internet page, leaving the rest for advertising.
I do quite a bit of writing, and my first experience at writing for the internet was a disaster. Among other things, I am a fly fishing guide. A new internet fly fishing magazine had requested I submit a series of articles. Personal anecdotes about my experiences. The first article I submitted was about 2400 words. They loved it, but they said it said it was too long. So, I did a rewrite. It came in at 1800 words. And the rewrite took more time and effort than writing the original 2400 words. And the article was diminished. And still too long. They wanted it shorter.
At this point, I dug in my heels. I admitted I understood such constraints on paper publishing, but how could they insist on such constraints on web publishing? How much does is cost to add a web page to an article? It's just another page they could slather with advertising. To which they replied, no one will read an article longer than 1200 words. I was flabbergasted. I like long articles and books. I'm bummed when I come to the end. In the end, these folks had an editor hack it down to 1200 words and publish it over my signature without my knowledge or permission. When I saw the article, I was appalled. I didn't recognize it. And demanded they take it down.
Maybe the publisher was right about his readers having short attention spans. I hope not, but I'm afraid it's true. And this mindset is the 500 pound gorilla in the room that few want to address.
I'm not by any stretch suggesting we should turn back the clock of progress. Only that we need to be aware of the negative potential of any new technology. And resist that negative potential with all our hearts. Or our minds will suffer.
FWIW.
Peace,
Lee

Change dimensions of 'high resolution photos' for digital printing

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