Cheap Good Sound bar for Samsung 50" TV

What would be the best cheapest sound bar for a Samsung 50" Plasma TV??Thanks

np, glad it helped.  Not sure on this one ... haven't tried it.  I think you'll still have to program your remote to control the sound.

Similar Messages

  • I want to buy a sound bar for my tv but want one that connects wirelessly to my apple tv, all the sound bars i have looked at do not mention this any recomendations ?

    I want to buy a sound bar for my samsung tv that  connects wirelessly to my apple tv so that i can listen to music through the sound bar. Are there any sound bars out there that can do this ?

    I do believe that the ability for your Apple TV to airplay audio to external devices was added just in the most recent update, that was released when iOS 6 was released if I'm correct, so there might not be any that specifically mention that yet.
    Since it uses AirPlay I'd assume any AirPlay compatible speaker would work, but I would look into it more before spending your money, just in case.

  • Sound bar for TV

    I have a Samsung LED TV with a super picture.  The tv is 2 years old.  The only complaint I have with it is the sound.  It seems like its muffled, mainly because the sound comes out of the back of TV and reflects off the wall.  I was thinking maybe a sound bar would help this.
    Anyone have a sound bar?  Would it project the sound better?  How does it connect?  Does it require power and does it get turned on and off when I power the TV on and off?
    Thanks, Jim

    np, glad it helped.  Not sure on this one ... haven't tried it.  I think you'll still have to program your remote to control the sound.

  • My sound bar for controlling on or off and volumn won't work and now my icon in my bar is gone.

    I have a Pavillion Pc,  my sound bar (touch) will not respond to me.  So I started using the icon in the bar at the bottom of the screen and today that is gone.  I had to turn it on and off at my control station.  Can you help me?

    At the moment the iMessage server is down.
    See http://apple.com/support/systemstatus/
    We can't look into your problem until it comes back up.

  • Recommendation for good sound card for test & measurem

    There are quite a lot sound card based oscilloscope, spectrum analyzer, signal generator softwares, such as multi-instrument?. An ordinary?sound card?can only measurement signal within 20Hz~20000Hz range (with flat frequency response),? I would appreciate it very much if anyboday here could recommend a sound card that can extend the above frequency range as?wider as possible, towards both the lower end and higher end.

    Such software is pure bullhit, because every soundcard has its flaws, wich will render the results unuseable. And the next point: most soundcard- drivers and the OS itself are changing the signal in a different manner. Maybe vollume boost, or reverb effects, some signal changing to get better results in terms of audio quality and signal clarity, and so on. Get a Oscilloscope. Maybe you will need to sell your house for a good one, but this is the only good solution ^^?The best soundcard for this purpose is not a real soundcard, but a recording card. There are some expensi've models out there, especially terratec or EMU. (I dont know really if EMu is selling REAL recording cards)Message Edited by fffcmad on 0-5-20082:24 PM

  • Bought a Boston sound bar for $339.00 now $299.99 possible to get a refund?

    I bought the Boston soundbar for $339 3 weeks ago and I see its on sale now for $299. Will best Buy get me $40 refund if I take the receipt to the store? Its a hassle to physically unplug the soundbar and return it and they repurchase to save the $40.

    Yes, they will.  If you saw the lower price on their web site, print it and take that with you too for proof in case the price in the store is different.  I've done this a few times without issue.  Just be sure you do this quickly as I think the price matching is only for 30 days.

  • Sound bars...good idea or bad idea?

    I am looking at purchasing a new HT system, but the Sony sound bars caught my eye. I know they can't fully sound as good as a true 5.1 or 7.1, but I like the idea of not having to run wires. Do they sound good with movies or just TV? Any help is welcomed. 

    The sound bars produced today are actually amazing. While they might not give you the range of a more expensive set, they are perfect for average home theater use. They use 3D sound technology to bounce off walls, creating artificial surround sound that actually impressive - the sort of technology you would of paid thousands of dollars for a few years ago.
    I would not recommend sound bars for mainly music use - they are not designed for that. They are designed for home theaters - and if that is your purpose, and you don't wish to run a more extensive and expensive system, sound bars are great. They are arranged so that the speaking voice is louder and the music softer, which is a major failing of a big theater system which isn't properly set up.
    Quick, easy, and simple the use is the advantage of a soundbar.
    Limited options for more intense audiophiles is the disadvantage.
    I am a Bestbuy employee who volunteers on these boards on my own time. I am not paid for posting here, and you should understand that my opinions are exactly that - opinions. I do not represent Bestbuy in any way.
    : Open Mailbox

  • Sound bar or Home Theater

    I have a new Sharp 60" 1080 LED TV, very nice TV very Happy with it, but like most TV's the sound could be improved.  I have my HD cable box, Sony PS3 and Xbox 360 hooked up to it.  Playstation primarily for Blue-ray, 360 for gaming.  I thought about picking up a sound bar for the TV to improve the sound.  When you look at spending at least $350 for a less expensive sound bar, for a small increase I could get a home theater in a box and elimnate the VERY noisy fan on the PS3 for movies.  I am open to opinions with reasons... what am I missing on my thought process?

    Hello,
    It all depends on what you want to do. It also depends on your room. If you are going to have a surround sound system, you will need to think about where your rear speakers are going to be placed and if you are going to buy one of the HTIBS(home theater in a box systems), will you buy one that has rear speakers that can be connected to a wireless module? If you do not want to run wires across your room, then you will want to look at Samsung, LG or Sony as the brands that offer systems with a wireless rear speaker option. Also keep in mind that these units have built in blu-ray players and all of their speakers are proprietary, so if anything was to go wrong with any part of the unit, you would not be able to easily replace that part without having to either ship the whole system or replace the entire system. HTIBS offer quick and affordable home theater solutions, but they typically do not last as long as separate component setups, which would be a real home theater receiver and a set of  separate speakers. They have limited performance, but that is a separate issue altogether. Also, a real receiver will allow you to connect all of your devices and get true 5.1 surround sound out of them if you have the speakers connected to the receiver. If you buy an HTIB you will be limited with your connection options since most of them do not have more than 2  audio in connections and it seems you have 3 devices that you would like to get surround sound from(PS3, Xbox, cable box). But if you buy one with a built in blu ray player, you could theoretically unhook the ps3 since you indicated that it is primarily for blu ray watching anyway. That would leave you with the 360 which you could hook up through an HDMI In on the unit and your cable box which you could connect via digital optical cable. This would allow for you to have the connections you need, but if you ever want to add anything later on, this would be your peak.
    By having a device connected to your TV and then connecting your TV to the surround sound unit, you are automatically going to downmix the material to a stereo(2.0) sound instead of a 5.1 sound and you will not be getting true surround sound through all of the speakers in the HTIB. In order to get true 5.1, the devices must be directly connected to your surround sound unit or receiver.
    On the other side, having a soundbar will eliminate the issue of downmixing, since the soundbar is only two speakers and a subwoofer in most cases anyway, you will not have to worry about the downmixing process. 
    So to sum it up, if you want true surround sound and have the room for extra speakers and possibly speaker wire, I'd say go for the HTIB and see how you like it, especially if you can get one that has wireless rear speakers. As long as you understand the limited connectivity and you also understand that a separate component system with a real AV receiver will give you superior performance and options, I'd say you are educated enough to make a decision. 
    Also, head into your local best buy and listen to some of the HTIBS they have on display. You can even bring your own CD of demo material to see how the speakers sound to your ears. To a lot of folks, they offer enough performance for the money they are willing to spend. For some, they don't quite do it. It's all subjective and it's all up to you, because at the end of the day, your ears are the only ones that matter when making a purchase for your use.

  • Why does my Sony Sound bar CT60BT turn off after 15 minutes?

    I turn the volume down during the evening and when I do, it automatically turns off after about 15 minutes.  Is there a way to change the settings so that it doesnt go into standby mode?

    Hi mdalton1284,
    Your Sound Bar has an Auto Standby Function.
    It will enter standby mode automatically when you do not operate the Sound Bar for about 15 minutes and the Sound Bar is not receiving an input signal but the sound bar is receiving signal from your PS4 going to the TV via HDMI connection.
    You may try resetting the Sound Bar.
    Follow the steps below.
    Use buttons on the remote control for the operation.
    Press BASS +, VOL - , and TREBLE + in that order within 3 seconds.
    Let us know if you're getting the same result after resetting the device.
    Thanks,
    >Joffrey
    If my post answers your question, please mark it as "Accept as Solution"

  • Sound Card for Disk Jock

    On my PC i had a creative sound blaster audigy. it had 4 great traits:
    1. inexpensive ~$200
    2. great sound configuration options
    3. RCA in and out
    4. 24bit sound
    What is a good sound card for my imac? i would like it to have the above traits.
    any help is appreciated

    When I was shopping about 6 months ago, here was my short list.
    They're all nice boxes, so I won't try to sway your opinion by telling
    you which one I bought. Anyhow, I use it for recording, not D-J.
    There are also some nice firewire boxes out there, but I limited my
    search to USB. I didn't want the audio interface and external HDD
    interfering with one another while recording. Also, I occasionally
    need to use it with a (USB-only) Windoze machine.
    I believe the E-Mu unit has the best tech specs, i.e., best S/N ratio.
    BTW, E-Mu is Creative's professional product line.
    M-Audio has some nice features (audio inserts, if you need 'em).
    OTOH, it's USB 1.1, so the number of simultaneous I/O channels
    is rather limited when using 24-bit audio at high sampling rates.
    Edirol (Roland) is probably the most rugged/bulletproof (but it's
    probably a little above your $200 target). Check Amazon.com.
    [E-Mu (Creative) 0404 USB|http://www.emu.com/products/product.asp?category=610&subcategory=611&produc t=15185]
    [M-Audio FastTrack Pro|http://www.m-audio.com/products/en_us/FastTrackPro-main.html]
    [Edirol (Roland) UA-25|http://www.rolandus.com/products/productdetails.aspx?ObjectId=704&ParentI d=114]
    None of them have RCA connectors for all inputs/outputs -- but that's easy to
    fix with a few RCA-to-1/4" (mono) phone plug adapters from RadioShack.
    ...rock on!
    Looby

  • Sound Bar remote apps

    Hi everyone, just a quick question, got a RCA RTS7010B sound bar for our small tv in our bedroom, and since it has bluetooth, I stream my Itunes through it while doing my marriage chores (putting away laundry)
    does anyone know if there is any sort of app out there that may control the bar from my phone? I can use the supplied remote, but it's more of a curiosity question, I did download a RCA app, but it looks like it is for a totally different soundbar....thanks again!

    Have you tried restarting or resetting your iPad?
    Restart: Press On/Off button until the Slide to Power Off slider appears, select Slide to Power Off and, after the iPad shuts down, then press the On/Off button until the Apple logo appears.
    Reset: Press the Home and On/Off buttons at the same time and hold them until the Apple logo appears (about 10 seconds).

  • Macbook Air & Samsung Sound Bar

    I recently bought my Samsung Sound Bar HW-H551 and was not able to get to connect to my Macbook air through bluetooth, it connects for a second and disconnects automatically, i've searched online and all it said that it was not compatible and i was told the same when i've visited my local apple support center.
    Anyone managed to find a solution for this?

    I recently bought my Samsung Sound Bar HW-H551 and was not able to get to connect to my Macbook air through bluetooth, it connects for a second and disconnects automatically, i've searched online and all it said that it was not compatible and i was told the same when i've visited my local apple support center.
    Anyone managed to find a solution for this?

  • A good audio system for accurate sound from Final Cut?

    I am looking to purchase a new mac pro for editing, and along with it, I need a new speaker/sound system setup. What is the best option in terms cost vs. quality? Who sells the best/most accurate product on the market? Thank you.

    In addition to any speakers you should budget for some speaker stands since placement and isolation is also key to getting a good sound.
    When the speakers are on the stands (+vertically because thats the way they are designed to work even though they do look cool on their side+) the tweeters should be level with your ears when seated at the editing station.
    You should also ensure the speakers are not obstructed by monitors or anything else.
    Ideally go for the stands that have a hollow central column that allows you to ballast them with shot or sand.
    Additionally placing acoustic foam on the wall behind the editing console will mop up stray frequencies.
    You would be surprised how much better even cheaper end speakers sound if you set them up correctly.
    btw . . this is aimed at the OP not you Studio . . just seemed prudent to add it to the solved post.

  • Samsung Smarttv & Samsung sound bar connection​???

    I've tried connecting these several ways & still cannot get sound except thru cable. My HDMI's are connected from sound bar to HDMI ARC. When I turn tv on I have to manually change the sound bar to HDMI. When I first had my tv installed was thru the Geek Squad (everything was correct & sound bar was on D IN) I've moved & now it's all screwed up. HELP!!!!

    Hello Cam66-
    It certainly sounds like you are dealing with a frustrating situation!
    I would recommend either trying Samsung’s support page here or contacting them directly for some troubleshooting options.  Otherwise, our home theater experts at your local Best Buy store may have some suggestions as well.  In addition, one of our community members may stop in to offer some assistance.
    Thanks for posting!
    Bill|Senior Social Media Specialist | Best Buy® Corporate
     Private Message

  • Can someone recommend me a good creative sound card for listening to music

    Hi all,
    I am thinking to buy a Creative sound card for my new PC.
    I have browsed the Creative web site but found out that there are just too many options for me to choose from, like X-FI, e-MuRecon3D Fatal1ty Champion, Recon3D PCIe, E-MU 1212M PCIe.
    I have no idea which one is the best for me since I like listening to music.
    Please give me some advice.
    Thanks
    Kitty.

    It's ultimately going to depend on how particular you are, and what output you're going to be using.
    Arguably the X-Fi Titanium HD will give the clearest output of the whole lot. A measurable 122dB SNR means you'll basically have to turn it up to the threshold of pain before you'll hear any noise produced by the card itself. That doesn't mean there won't be any noise at all in the output - just that the card realistically won't add any that didn't already exist in the source material. Further to this, when run in Entertainment mode you'll also have access to the THX enhancements over the standard Creative ones, which I personally find to be substantially better in actual listening. The EMI shield and changeable op-amps are just gravy.
    Of course, there's always fine print. The 122dB SNR only applies to the front outputs, for example. That's not to say the rest aren't very good - they're rated at between 115dB and 118dB - just that they aren't as good. Odds are you won't really care but its still worth mentioning. The other major limitation (in my opinion) is the absence of a good headphone pre-amplifier, but that may or may not be a non-issue depending on whether you use headphones or already have an external one (or, like me, you feel inclined to make your own to solve that limitation).
    The other good option would be the Recon3D. I wouldn't bother going with any of the upper market ones for music (or for any reason, for that matter) unless the front drive bay or directional microphone are of any particular importance to you (NB I bought the Fatal1ty Champion edition - still not entirely sure why). An argument could be made for the EMI shield, but with so few components on the board it probably isn't stopping a whole heap of noise anyway over the miniature "shield" on the SPU itself. When compared in raw specs to the Titanium HD, at a glance it would appear to be vastly inferior - 102dB SNR ratio (albeit constant across all outputs) is quite a bit lower, after all.
    However, it's important to keep in mind exactly what that means. 102dB SNR still means you'll have to turn the volume up quite a bit to get any extra noise added to your output. You're talking around the volume of a power saw at a little over 3 feet, so realistically it's quite loud - and it's over the level which is generally considered to cause hearing loss with sustained exposure (95dB). You also have to remember that this doesn't apply to the S/PDIF outputs (nor does the HD's 122dB) since they're entirely at the mercy of whatever decoder you're using, so if you're using that output than the extra expense of the HD is pretty much entirely wasted. And, as a major plus, all Recon3D cards have what seems to be a pretty decent headphone pre-amp, which makes a very appreciable difference in listening, as well as supporting the various THX enhancements.
    The short version:
    - If you're listening mostly via stereo analogue speakers, get the Titanium HD.
    - If you're listening mostly via headphones, get the Recon3D (I personally think the pre-amp is better than the higher SNR).
    - If you're listening mostly via S/PDIF to an external amp, it doesn't matter (but get the Recon3D because it's cheaper).

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