Cheapest HDMI autosensing switch?

I have an AppleTV, a CableTV HD box with an HDMI output, and a Sony multimedia center that I wish to hook up to my TV. Yet I don't want to constantly fiddle with the TV's input setting to select different inputs. Is there an autosensing switch that will detect when the AppleTV signal changes, the HD box changes, and the Sony multimedia center changes, and give priority to the other two signals other than the HD box? I.e. obviously the TV signal would always change.

Oh goodness:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882754002
Says it may not be compatible. There is a manufacturer response to get a different device. I'm checking with them if the other device is automatic or not.

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Windows 7 HDMI Issue - Switch to Projector only, now stuck

PLEASE I AM SO VERY STUCK.
My father told me to watch Netflix while I was home from university - using the new HDMI Cable we purchased - very proud that he had figured it out on his own. So I turned the TV input to HDMI, and, after loading my selected movie, plugged the cord into
the laptop (A Lenovo B575). It worked! I saw the Netflix loading screen on BOTH computer and TV. Great! BUT, the bottom few inches of the picture were cut off on the TV (An LG 32LN530B), so I decided to change the resolution a bit. I went into the control
panel to adjust and went too far - I forget now the resolution I chose, but I increased it. The TV then said "no input" as if no HDMI cable was there. I had closed the control panel while the screen was adjusting, and so I hit Windows+P to open
up the "Projector" modes, thinking this would bring me back to the same place.
Somehow, I mistakenly switched the output to "Projector Only", and thus the laptop's screen went black (black, not blank as if there were still a backlight). As there was no input for the TV because of the improper resolution, and no output for
the actual laptop monitor as it was configured to be projector only, I figured as soon as I unplugged the HDMI cord the screen would come back on. No such luck. I waited, and then after a few minutes decided to try Windows+P and blindly readjust. Still
no luck. I tried many combinations of the arrow keys, wait times between Windows+P and arrow keys, etc. The lights of the keyboard are all functioning completely normally, but don't seem to be responding to the controls. I also tried Fn+F3 (the equivalent
of Windows+P)... to little avail. I then tried Function and F2-F6 (all of the keys with orange 'functions'), respectively. Still nothing. To reiterate, no HDMI cord is inserted, computer is running perfectly, and both Windows+P and Function+F3
tricks failed.
So, I restarted my computer and logged in again, successfully getting to the desktop. I tried to plug the HDMI cord as I had done initially, when it was all working properly, and - screen goes black again. It's as if it remembered that I set the secondary
or alternative display resolution to be higher than possible and on projector only. I tried everything again. I repeated this quite a few times, using different combinations. Still, the black screen remains. I went into the control panel again, to see if I
could adjust the resolution of the TV (secondary display) BEFORE it was connected. No luck. It would only let me adjust the resolution of the computer. After spending an excrutiating hour googling and finding no help anywhere, I tried to consult the TV's owner
manual. No help. I adjusted all the proper HDMI settings on the TV itself, and it still is causing the black screen.
I am hoping there is some way to make my computer "forget" the HDMI settings so that it will work as it did initially, before I got cocky and wanted to adjust things. Somebody, please help me. It's now 2am.

press F8 and choose "last known good configuration"
if doesn't help, try to remove your amd display and reinstall again
http://support.lenovo.com/en_US/downloads/detail.page?DocID=DS025425
if doesn't help, please try system restore

Macbook Pro Thunderbolt and HDMI displays switch on wake up

Hi there,
Currently using a late 2013 15" Macbook Pro., latest version of Mavericks. I have one display hooked up through Thunderbolt->DVI, with a second set up through HDMI->DVI.
There seems to be an issue where on waking the monitors up from sleep mode (about 10 minutes inactivity time) the displays will turn on, immediately go black (inlcuding the Macbook Pro screen), and then switch such that all windows on one are now on the other.
I can't really repliate this, as it seems to just happen randomly. All I can say in my detective work, is that the HDMI->DVI hooked-up monitor tends to take a little more time to turn on after sleep, whereas the Thunderbolt->DVI monitor comes up immediately.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.

I've noticed that the HDMI connection seems to lag the Thunderbolt on wake as well. I haven't had the switching issue, though. I use my Thunderbolt display as the primary (menu bar in the preferences) - maybe try doing that if you're using your HDMI out as the primary.
You can always try resetting the SMC and PRAM as well.

HDMI Auto Switch

Hi! I have a HDMI in my laptop, Dell XPS L421X with XFCE. When I connect HDMI to TV I have the video, use ARandR to set the displays, but not sound. I Install pavucontrol (PulseAudio Volume Control) because in SoundMixer have not controls with pulseaudio and not apear the hdmi. With pavcontrol I can select the audio and go to TV.
In pavcontrol I can see in the Configuration Tab, diferent profiles for built-in audio:
Analog Stereo Duplex --Default Analog Stereo Output
Digital Stereo (HDMI) Output + Analog Stereo Input
Digital Stereo (HDMI) Output
Digital Stereo (HDMI) Output + Analog Stereo Input
Digital Stereo (HDMI) Output (unpluged)
Digital Sourround 5.1 (HDMI) Output + Analog Stereo Input
Digital Sourround 5.1 (HDMI) Output
Digital Sourround 5.1 (HDMI) Output + Analog Stereo Input
Digital Sourround 5.1 (HDMI) Output (unpluged)
Analog Stereo Input
Off
The first: Analog Stereo Duplex is the default when the sound exit by the laptop.
To set audio with TV I can select: "Digital Stereo (HDMI) Output + Analog Stereo Input" or "Digital Stereo (HDMI) Output"
Is possible to auto switch the audio/video when the hdmi is plug-in and plug-out? ARandR & pavcontrol appear have not this control...
Thanks in advance!

Can you enable HDMI video from the command line?
Can you enable HDMI sound from the command line?
I made a script that will toggle HDMI video and sound for the TV. Then, I assigned it to a keyboard command so it's easy to toggle. Let me know if you want to see my script. I have a Radeon HD5450, and I use the open source radeon driver and ALSA.
After you can enable HDMI video and sound from a script, then you can learn how to detect when the cable is plugged in.
Last edited by drcouzelis (2015-05-07 14:52:57)

Onkyo SR705 HDMI-DVI switching problem..

I just bought myself an Onkyo SR705 with built in HDMI switching. At first, I thought my monitor having problems with the switch or my mac pro not detecting it. Then i turned on my PS3 and it works. Mac detects the receiver. But no picture comes out if it. Previously, i had a TERK 2-in-1 switch and that works well.
Gateway FPD2275W DVI-HDMI > Onkyo > mac pro HDMI-HDMI with HDMI to DVI adaptor.
what do i need to do with the mac or the setup in general to fix this problem?
my monitor supports 1080i, and supports HDCP.

ill answer my own question.
found out the switch does not support full HD resolutions. Supported Max at 1280x1024 and also 1024x768.. probably my video card doesn't support it either? eh.. for anybody who is wondering why it dont work.
Message was edited by: KwaZyLiLoBoY

Dell 1610hd HDMI fast switching

For switching between 4 HDMI sources I've got an advanced HDMI matrix which stores EDID and HDCP data to reduce the hand-shaking time. But nevertheless it takes 7 seconds to establish the connection and show the image. Is their a way to decrease the delay approaching a more seamless presentation?
Thanks in advance.

ewaller wrote:@cfr: Which interface are you using?
Do you mean am I using cups or something else or do you mean to configure the printers or something else?
I usually use the web interface to configure the printers for cups. I'm using the "recommended" HP drivers for the HP printers (and I think I'm using a proprietary ppd for the Dell printer from Dell but I use that printer much less than the others and not for printing these sorts of files).
I see the same problem with an HP LaserJet 1320 and a P3010 series (I think it is a 3015).
I discovered that if I switch to a gutenprint driver things are better for at least some JSTOR files on the 1320 but I still have issues. For some reason, it doesn't then want to print the last page (no matter how many pages there are) and this driver can only print at 600dpi and has fewer options. The printer is waiting for more data but cups thinks everything has been sent successfully. If I resend the last page to the printer, I then get two copies but one prints much later than the other. I assume this is another way in which something to do with the spooling or the way that cups sends data to the printer is going wrong and maybe connected with why printers get "stuck". Aside from the slowness issue there is definitely something not quite right about the communication between computer and printer. It is as though cups has two speeds: super quick (spools so fast the printer can't keep up); and super slow.
I've tried printing problematic PDFs from at least Okular, acroread and using lp on the command line.
I don't understand how the suggestion concerning converting them to png is supposed to work. Do you convert each page to a separate png file? I guess you could script it but it still seems like a convoluted process. (And I assume it rules out double-sided printing.)

My bill is just too high! What is the cheapest way to switch if I'm still under contract?

I have four lines. It is costing me $260 a month for unlimited talk and text, and 6G shared data. It is killing me to keep this up, but I still need my lines. I'm researching other carriers to see if I can get my bill to $150 or less. There are options, but after October I will still have one line under contract. Can anyone guess what my early termination fee would be at that time?

When you log into the MyVerizon account for the account owner, go to change features. At the top will be an option to add a line fee discount if it is not under contract. Click on that. You would have to do it for each line which is not under contract. With a 6 GB shared data allowance, you would get a discount of $10/line not under contract.
Depending on how many lines you have out of contract, it MAY be beneficial to increase your data allowance to 10 GB/month. If you have a 10 GB/month data allowance, you would get a discount of $25/month/line. The increase in cost from 6 GB to 10 GB would only be $20/month(6 GB cost = $80/month, 10 GB cost = $100/month) but if you have 2 lines out of contract, the increase in discount would be $30/month(2 x $10/month discount = $20/month, 2 x $25/month discount = $50/month). When you get another line out of contract, your discount would increase each month by either $10 or $25 depending on you data allowance.

DVI-D - HDMI switcher - DVI-D

Hey friends,
I've got a fairly convoluted and confusing HDMI situation. As DVI matrix switchers are so expensive, I decided to get a HDMI switcher and HDMI to DVI cables. I have two Mac Pro towers, each with two DVI outputs, and two 24" Cinema HD displays. So, my signal flow is:
Mac Pros - DVI to HDMI cables (x4) - HDMI matrix switcher - HDMI cable - HDMI to DVI adaptor - Cinema HD tail
The monitors simply flash three short lights, which Apple support tells me means that they are recieving an invalid format or resolution. I thought that HDMI and DVI were completely compatible formats... Any ideas as to why this is not working?
Thanks!

Going through a lot of "adapters" in that setup (cables "adapters", switcher, dvi adaptor). I guess my first question would be to supply all the details of all those components to verify they are the proper components to handle the signals. So, list url's to all the stuff:
1. dvi-to-hdmi cable
2. hdmi switcher
3. hdmi-to-dvi adaptor
4. hdmi cables (including lengths)
Maybe there's something in the specificaions of these things that would indicate the problem.
Update:
As an experiment you might want to try a single monitor and macpro without the switch. mac pro --> dvi-to-hdmi cable --> hdmi-to-dvi adaptor --> monitor. If it works then obviously the switch would be the culprit.

HDMI switching with YV box - help?

I am now in the unfortunate position of having a TV with only one HDMI input but currently have two boxes (YouView and NowTV) that output HDMI. The one scart input is used by the DVD player and I'm aware of scart-switch problems where YV boxes are concerned too.
I bought a Duronics HDMI auto-switcher, it has three inputs and one output. I connected it up and the NowTV box displayed its bouncing logo fine. I switched on the YV box and got a pink screen. I tried unplugging the NowTV box from the mains, unplugging the HDMI lead etc. Cycling through the inputs using the manual switch - still the same pink screen, turned box on-off etc.
Has anyone managed to use a HDMI switcher and if so how or which one and if it does work, does it always work without a problem?
For info: I have a BT supplied box (the first one they sent out, Humax ..), power set to the quicker starting one (eco-mode: Low??)

I use a Thor combined HDMI/Optical switch with the YV box with no problem. Occasionally see a flash of pink when it switches then it settles down.
Does this happen if you switch first before turning on the YV box (does your auto-switcher let you manually override to do this)?
Have you re-tried plugging the HDMI lead direct into the TV as it maybe just a co-incidence this started happening when you introduced the switch?
One other thing I suggest you try is swapping the HDMI leads between the YV box and the Now TV device.

Would like to add two devices since obtaining HDMI IV: a wireless keyboard

Secondly, I would like to have headphones to have capability to listen tv without disburbing bed partner. I see apple wireless keyboard requires blue tooth usb dongle which costs as much as keyboard, looking at a Kensington wireless keyboard which uses that other technology. Excuse my ignorance.
Do I need to buy both blue tooth and beamed to headphone as my mac doessn't have internal bluetooth. I use Belkin Wireless currently b not n. I found a site with great reviews for 802.11n Mac USB Wireless Adapter, which is n . But pricey. That may be ok as i don't want to go backwards. my systems is used by four rooms wired and wireless and I also want to buy a wireless adapter for an old G3 so it will work in my grandkids house across from kitchen to back two bedrooms.
Can anyone advise which keyboard: i don;t like feel of new Mac flat ones, it slows down typing, I also like white. PS I have a great $1245 Kensington Trackball. So I don't necessarily need combo unit except for the grandkids g3. Iknow this is a big order. But i spent all day learning terms and getting not much done online. Thanks in advance. New HDMI and switcher trying to network an old G3

I am asking about my G5 desktop 1.8.
You asked the right question but in the wrong forum. This is the GEE-FOUR area. That's is why no one is answering other than me, who realized you would benefit from moving your post and offered help to relocate it. I provided the link to the G5 forums previously. I'm sure that, if you post there, you will get help from people who use and manage G5 computers on a regular basis.
From your profile, I see that most of your other posts are in the proper G5 forum, I remain confused about why you insist on getting this question answered in the GEE-FOUR forums, and why polite help offered made you angry.
These are user-to-user forums, not staffed by Apple employees, and everyone volunteers their time without hope of remuneration. That's why the forums are organized by model; people with common equipment types can share ideas and help with common problems. Your computer does not match the equipment and experience base of the forum in whcih you posted.
Misplaced posts are common here due to some confusing labeling of forum areas. However, someone getting mad when politely told they are better served by reposting in the area matching their computer model is NOT common.

I will be using a HDMI cable to connect an Apple TV box and a Comcast cable TV box to my TV. My TV has only one HDMI port.

I will be using a HDMI cable to connect an Apple TV box and a Comcast cable TV box to my TV. My TV has only one HDMI port.
To do this I will need a 2x1 HDMI splitter or a 2x1 HDMI auto switch (preferred).
?Is there any Apple TV HDMI port voltage?
When using a HDMI auto switch to connect two devices to a HDMI TV, the
Auto switch cable box only works for components that do not output continuous voltage over HDMI port when turned off.
Do you know of any other solutions? Componets? Actual expierances?
Full text below.
Cable : HDMI switches expand the number of available HDMI ports on a high definition television allowing connection of cable boxes, Blu-ray players, and game consoles. A side benefit is that cable clutter is also eliminated by running a single HDMI cable to your HDTV from a switch and relocating the HDMI ports to a concealed location. The problem with most HDMI switches is that you have to either get up to push a button, or hunt for the remote control, to switch sources. The true mark of any great switching component is an ability to perform its function and remain transparent in its operation. This automatic HDMI switch is a plug-and-play away from offering everything you are looking for in an HDMI switch. Select a single output from up to three devices for signal delivery to your HDTV. Smart operation provides complete control for connect-and-forget operation. Powering on a device gives it output priority over the other devices. By powering down the device in use, output priority is returned to the last powered on device. Note: Auto switch function only works for components that do not output continuous voltage over HDMI port when turned off.
Here is a typical HDMI 3-in 1-Out HDMI Auto Switch
http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=hdmi+auto+splitter&rls=com.microsoft:en -us&oe=UTF-8&startIndex=&startPage=1&rlz=1I7GGLF_en&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=1 0340892278237558532&sa=X&ei=fTPmTtOiHuXq0gGc3sHfBQ&ved=0CHsQ8wIwAA#
Thanks for any help. Sincerely,
HDMI auto switch?

Hi Erico,
I tried what you said again but without success. I even updated the driver so that that audio driver is the same as the graphics driver i.e.. NVIDIA but this has not helped either:
Do you have any other ideas?
Many many thanks,
Louise

Living with the HDMI Logo Freeze

As many of you using HDMI know, switching to the AppleTV sometimes causes a Logo freeze. For me this has been happening since upgrading to 2.x software. I use an HDMI switcher box (not ONKYO related) and have the ATV set to 1080p. I sometimes use the ATV as a remote speaker for iTunes. Many of the threads in this forum have helped me cope and inspired this post. It's going to be up to Apple to fix, hopefully soon.
Here are a few tips I have been using to mostly +(unfortunately not always)+ avoid the problem.
1. Back out to the main menu and put the ATV into standby +(hold play 6 or more seconds)+ after you are done using it. Or at least leave it on an iTunes store page (not your shared area) and then go to standby.
2. Check the light before you switch! Sometimes the ATV will 'awaken' from standby without being prompted. I haven't figured out why but it's probably because of the pushed content. IF THE LIGHT IS ON DON'T SWITCH YET! Hold the play button until the light goes out, then switch. If you had previously remembered to back out to the main menu, you should be good. If not, flip a coin. Press Menu (not play) to bring up the interface. If you cannot get the light to go out, then switch while holding play on the Apple Remote.
3. Un-Pair, Re-Pair remote occasionally. There should be no orange lights goin' on during the AppleTV HDMI Logo Freeze issue. If there is, check your remote pairing first.
4. If you stream instead of syncing, make sure the ATV is in standby before shutting down iTunes +(which will still complain anyway)+.
Of course this is not a real solution and is waaay too much to ask of the common user. <insert random annoyed complaint here>
c

Try:
- iOS: Not responding or does not turn on
- Also try DFU mode after try recovery mode
How to put iPod touch / iPhone into DFU mode « Karthik's scribblings
- If not successful and you can't fully turn the iOS device fully off, let the battery fully drain. After charging for an least an hour try the above again.
- If still not successful that indicates a hardware problem and an appointment at the Genius Bar of an Apple store is in order.
Apple Retail Store - Genius Bar

Imac HDMI doesn't display to TV through HDMI

imac HDMI doesn't display to TV through HDMI switch

hdmi switches are notorious for not working with most computers and appletv's and well most things with hdmi ports really

KDE4 randr + Samsung TV HDMI [SOLVED]

Hello, I have following HW config:
HP laptop with Radeon HD 6370 with HDMI output
Samsung LED TV UE46c6500, native resolution 1920x1080
Laptop display resolution is 1600x900
When I connect laptop with TV using HDMI cable and message saying "new monitor connected " appears. Then I can configure new monitor. So far so good. I can select native resolution of TV and I can see a KDE desktop on TV. But this desktop is cropped. On each side some pixels are missing.I If I align resolution of laptop and TV, desktop is fine, nothing is missing but sound over HDMI stops working.
I want to use TV for XBMC and neither missing information nor missing sound is not acceptable for that.
Questions:
1) how to fix missing part of desktop with native TV's resolution (preferred) or at least audio with different resolution?
2) is there any better plug-play solution for XBMC? I mean I want to connect laptop to TV only when I want to watch movies. It will not be used exclusively for that and I do not want to spend 10 minutes each time I want to run XBMC and then another time to switch back to standard operation.
Thanks!
Last edited by KejPi (2012-11-04 18:44:49)

I'm afraid I'm not understanding this to much but there's a thing or two:
1) you probably want to make your TV as a second extended display (in matter of fact the bullet-proof solution is to switch to TV entirely and switch-off laptop display: make your TV main and only display, this way you won't get hassle with multi-display bugs e.g tearing, main/secondary full sreen issues etc.) I'm afraid that cloning with different resolutions might not work.
2) go and check your HDMI's on back of your TV and look for "PC" signed one, Samsung actually did that on my TV and on HDMI-1 I was unable to set up native resolution, on HDMI-2 which was made as a PC input - everything worked out-of-box
3) I know nothing about audio through HDMI on Linux
About question number 2:
- you mean something like script that will detect hdmi cable, switch your displays and run XBMC? That's probably doable but as soon as you set-up your TV correctly changing display shouldn't take more time than 15s. Just leave a HDMI cable plugged to your TV all the time, go with a laptop whenever you need it, plug HDMI to your laptop, click inside KDE like 2 or 3 times and that's all (you can send krandr icon to tray too so you won't be looking at systemsetting all the time)

Best hdmi cable for this television sony KDL55EX500

also for my ps3 to this particuliar tv
can anyone tell me wich cable to buy number wise for hdmi to get best full 1080 hd

NoNoBadDog wrote:
The best one is the cheapest you can find in the length you need. On consumer equipment, there is *NO* difference between a $5 cable and a $150 dollar cable. There are some that will mumble about gold plated connectors or some mumbo jumbo about shielding (which makes no difference to a digital signal, which is what all HDMI cables are), but it is all smoke and snake oil, designed to liberate as much money form your back account as they can...
Do not be fooled by the hype and the bullsh*t; and get the cheapest cables you can find. Use the money you save to buy a few good movies, or take your significant other to dinner...
Actually, gold plated connectors are important for corrosion resistance and shielding is critical for all high-bandwidth digital signals. (I've seen plenty of systems fail EMI testing where I work due to improper shielding.)
However - even the cheapest HDMI cables I've found have gold plated connectors and proper shielding.
So to the original poster: The best cable for you is the cheapest one that is:
HDMI High-Speed certified
Long enough
Things that are nice but not critical:
24AWG wires - the premium cables from my favorite supplier are in this category. The cheap ones are 28AWG. (Larger number = thinner wire). 24AWG wires will make the cable more reliable and also more durable, but also less flexible. The big ripoff artists like Monster won't even tell you this particular specification! If you are paying more than $10 for a 6-foot 24AWG cable, you are paying too much by the way.
Net/mesh jacket/sheath - provides a little extra protection for the cable and looks nice too. Still, again - don't pay more than $10 for a 6-foot cable or you're getting ripped off.
*disclaimer* I am not now, nor have I ever been, an employee of Best Buy, Geek Squad, nor of any of their affiliate, parent, or subsidiary companies.

Cheapest HDMI autosensing switch?

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