Checking the hard drive

Hi
I purchased my hp pavilion sleekbook and now my hard drive is not working how do I check my hard disk/drive if it has been dislodged or moved somehow

We need your full model number to provide you with the right diagrams. The hard drive is held in there pretty well and it is much more likely it is defective than disconnected but it does happen. 

Similar Messages

  • My mac is running slow, the spinning beach ball constantly appears. it seems that when i am in the apple store with fast wifi its a bit better. genius at the apple store checked the hard drive, it's all fine. what can it be?

    my mac is running slow, the spinning beach ball constantly appears. it seems that when i am in the apple store with fast wifi its a bit better. genius at the apple store checked the hard drive, it's all fine. what can it be? can it be a software issue with the wifi?
    also i noted that it has only been doing this since quite recently, before it was fine
    please help!

    First, back up all data immediately, as your boot drive might be failing.
    Step 1
    This diagnostic procedure will query the log for messages that may indicate a system issue. It changes nothing, and therefore will not, in itself, solve your problem.
    If you have more than one user account, these instructions must be carried out as an administrator.
    Triple-click anywhere in the line below on this page to select it:
    syslog -k Sender kernel -k Message CReq 'GPU |hfs: Ru|I/O e|find tok|n Cause: -|NVDA\(|timed? ?o' | tail | open -ef
    Copy the selected text to the Clipboard by pressing the key combination command-C.
    Launch the Terminal application in any of the following ways:
    ☞ Enter the first few letters of its name into a Spotlight search. Select it in the results (it should be at the top.)
    ☞ In the Finder, select Go ▹ Utilities from the menu bar, or press the key combination shift-command-U. The application is in the folder that opens.
    ☞ Open LaunchPad. Click Utilities, then Terminal in the icon grid.
    Paste into the Terminal window (command-V). I've tested these instructions only with the Safari web browser. If you use another browser, you may have to press the return key.
    The command may take a noticeable amount of time to run. Wait for a new line ending in a dollar sign (“$”) to appear.
    A TextEdit window will open with the output of the command. Normally the command will produce no output, and the window will be empty. If the TextEdit window (not the Terminal window) has anything in it, stop here and post it — the text, please, not a screenshot. The title of the TextEdit window doesn't matter, and you don't need to post that.
    Step 2
    There are a few other possible causes of generalized slow performance that you can rule out easily.
    Disconnect all non-essential wired peripherals and remove aftermarket expansion cards, if any.
    Reset the System Management Controller.
    Run Software Update. If there's a firmware update, install it.
    If you're booting from an aftermarket SSD, see whether there's a firmware update for it.
    If you have a portable computer, check the cycle count of the battery. It may be due for replacement.
    If you have many image or video files on the Desktop with preview icons, move them to another folder.
    If applicable, uncheck all boxes in the iCloud preference pane. See whether there's any change.
    Check your keychains in Keychain Access for excessively duplicated items.
    Boot into Recovery mode, launch Disk Utility, and run Repair Disk.
    If you have a MacBook Pro with dual graphics, disable automatic graphics switching in the Energy Saverpreference pane for better performance at the cost of shorter battery life.
    Step 3
    When you notice the problem, launch the Activity Monitor application in any of the following ways:
    ☞ Enter the first few letters of its name into a Spotlight search. Select it in the results (it should be at the top.)
    ☞ In the Finder, select Go ▹ Utilities from the menu bar, or press the key combination shift-command-U. The application is in the folder that opens.
    ☞ Open LaunchPad. Click Utilities, then Activity Monitor in the icon grid.
    Select the CPU tab of the Activity Monitor window.
    Select All Processes from the View menu or the menu in the toolbar, if not already selected.
    Click the heading of the % CPU column in the process table to sort the entries by CPU usage. You may have to click it twice to get the highest value at the top. What is it, and what is the process? Also post the values for User, System, and Idle at the bottom of the window.
    Select the Memory tab. What value is shown in the bottom part of the window for Swap used?
    Next, select the Disk tab. Post the approximate values shown for Reads in/sec and Writes out/sec (not Reads in andWrites out.)
    Step 4
    If you have more than one user account, you must be logged in as an administrator to carry out this step.
    Launch the Console application in the same way you launched Activity Monitor. Make sure the title of the Console window is All Messages. If it isn't, select All Messages from the SYSTEM LOG QUERIES menu on the left. If you don't see that menu, select
    View ▹ Show Log List
    from the menu bar.
    Select the 50 or so most recent entries in the log. Copy them to the Clipboard by pressing the key combinationcommand-C. Paste into a reply to this message (command-V). You're looking for entries at the end of the log, not at the beginning.
    When posting a log extract, be selective. Don't post more than is requested.
    Please do not indiscriminately dump thousands of lines from the log into this discussion.
    Important: Some personal information, such as your name, may appear in the log. Anonymize before posting. That should be easy to do if your extract is not too long.

  • Can't boot up into OS X after attempting to partition the hard drive from Windows

    I recently installed Windows 7 on a partition of the hard drive in my iMac. In an attempt to make the Windows partition bigger I did something to the OS X partition and now I do not recieve the option to start up in OS X when I hold option down on the boot up screen. Is there any way I can fix this? I checked the hard drive and ~300mb (the size of the OS X partition) is still being used but I can't access it.

    Your question seems to be a MS Windows question. If you use Boot Camp then post there. If you use Parallels or another virtualtization app to run Windows please post in those forums. Most users on this forum don't use Windows, some do but most do not.
    Best of luck.

  • Can I get a data recovery from Apple if my iMac was in the hard drive replacement programme and I wasn't notified about it?

    Basically my iMac just crashed and I searched on Google for replacing my hard drive and came across the iMac 1TB Seagate Hard Drive Replacement Program at http://www.apple.com/support/imac-harddrive/
    Which is that Apple is asking all 2009 - 2011 iMac users to return their iMac for a free hard drive replacement because it currently has a fault in it. After entering in my serial number, I see that my iMac is elegible for a replacement.
    I did register my iMac with Apple, but I didn't receive any email about this program and I lost all my recent data because of the faulty hard drive. I never had an issue before with the drive so this just happened out of the blue.
    Is it possible to get a free data recovery from Apple for this? I find that it was a lack of communication that I lost most of my data.

    I completely understand that it's my responsibility to back up my data but I have it set to every 2nd month, not on a weekly or daily basis to back up the data.
    Apple might not be in data recovery business but could they not acquire a third party to do this?
    This is what happened:
    It was on sleep overnight and when I tried waking it, it was lagging badly. So I shut it down and restarted it. I phoned into techincal support to find out whats wrong, but they were giving me advice to reset the params etc. But i think it made it worse because it didnt want to get passed the white start up screen.
    So I phoned back to ask if it's a usual issue with my version of iMac and the man replied that it isn't common and that I should run the disk utility to check the hard drives health.
    I installed Mountain Lion on a USB and started the disk utility. Then it highlighted in red that it's a hardware fault and cannot be repaired by the disk utility. Therefore the hard drive has a serious fault with it.
    That's when I Google'd for a replacement drive and came across the program. The techincal guy didn't even tell me about it or anything.
    If I knew about this sooner, I would have taken it in for a replacement.

  • How do I mount the hard drive of one Macbook Air onto another Macbook Air?

    I did something funny to my Macbook Air (late 2009). However I have a brand new Macbook Air that I just took out of the box today.
    I want to check the hard drive of the old MBA and remove some files as I filled up the hard drive by mistake while I was backing it up.
    Whenever I start the old Macbook Air, it shows a blue screen. I can see Yahoo Widgets but the dock is off the screen.
    How do I mount the HD of the old MBA? I have two USB ethernet dongles. I have an ethernet cord.
    Can I simply connect them up via the USB ports? Will that mount the old MBA onto the new MBA?
    I am in serious trouble because I don't have a backup. I wrecked the hard drive while I was doing a backup. I am trying to salvage whatever I have on the hard drive of the old MBA.
    I think I can salvage a lot. I just can't see the Desktop of the old MBA when I start that computer up.
    As my new MBA has 256GB I am going to try and mount the old MBA onto the new MBA and remove some files from there.
    Can it be done like this?

    Thanks for the reply. I was able to save the data on the Macbook Air whose HD got corrupted by using File Sharing (ethernet connecting two Macbook Airs).
    I am also going to make a disk image of the HD using Disk Utility and mount that Disk Image onto an external hard drive. That way I can save the hard drive contents.

  • I just made two separate copies on external hardrives of all my Lightroom 4 and 5 work. I also cleared ecerything in my recycle bin to make room on the hard drive. Now, when I go to work in Lightroom 5, I have no pictures. I did check the back-ups, and al

    I just made two separate copies on external hardrives of all my Lightroom 4 and 5 work. I also cleared everything in my recycle bin to make room on the hard drive. Now, when I go to work in Lightroom 5, I have no pictures. I did check the back-ups, and all the pictures are there, however with a ? on every photo. What do I do to get my photos back into my original Lightroom 5 without the ? marks? Thanks in advance for any help. Al

    Now, when I go to work in Lightroom 5, I have no pictures.
    Could you provide more details? Is this the copy of your catalog, or the original catalog? Are you sure you didn't accidentally open some other catalog? If you try the catalogs under File->Open Recent, do you find your photos?
    I did check the back-ups, and all the pictures are there, however with a ? on every photo. What do I do to get my photos back into my original Lightroom 5 without the ? marks?
    Backups will work properly if you restore the catalog file and the photos to their ORIGINAL locations.

  • A way to check if the hard drive is actually shutting off?

    Is there any way to actually check and see if the hard drive is being turned off when it isn't needed? Any software or a pre-installed utility? I've left my MacBook Pro on and running a few nights. Sometimes it's seeding torrents, others I've shut down most of my software and simply left iChat running to let friends know I'm asleep. Each morning when I wake up I can feel something spinning under the left palm rest. I don't know if this is a cooling fan or the drive is still on and running.
    I have my energy settings set to sleep the machine after 1.5 hours and to shut the drive down when not needed. I'm wondering if there are any utilities that can let me check and see if some piece of software is using the drive or otherwise preventing my machine from going to sleep. Any ideas?

    I'm wondering if there are any utilities that
    can let me check and see if some piece of software is
    using the drive or otherwise preventing my machine
    from going to sleep. Any ideas?
    As to this question, there's a command-line utility named fs_usage which you can use to determine which application(s) are accessing the filesystem and thus, causing your drive to spin-up.
    I won't pretend that the output isn't voluminous or terse, but with a bit of reading, it can easily help you find which applications are too "disk-chatty".

  • Can anyone help. I need to reuse my SDHC cards and transfer footage from an ongoing profect to a hard drive. Can i edit from the Hard drive or am I better transferring info striaight from camera to time line

    Hi I am using a JVC GY-HM100 camera which is meant to work well with final cut pro.  I have an ongoing project but need to save money and resuse the SDHC cards that are currently full of footage.
    Would I be better off transferring the footage straight to the time line (as rumour has it you can do this with this camera) or store the footage on a hard drive and edit it later without risk of losing the footage.
    Many thanks
    Lindabob

    Thanks Linda,
    Here's some more info for you:
    This is my pet checklist for questions regarding FCP X performance - you may have already addressed some of the items but it's worth checking.
    Check the spec of your Mac against the system requirements:
    http://www.apple.com/finalcutpro/specs/
    Check the spec of your graphics card. If it's listed here, it's not suitable:
    http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4664
    Make sure you're using the latest version of the application - FCP X 10.0.3 runs very well on my 2009 MacPro 2 x 2.26 GHz Quad-Core Intel Xeon with 16 GB RAM and ATI Radeon HD 5870 1024 MB. I run it with Lion 10.7.3.
    Check that you have at least 20% free space on your system drive.
    If you have not already done so, move your Projects and Events to a fast (Firewire 800 or faster) external HD. Make sure the drive's formatted OS Extended (journalling's not required for video). You should always keep at least 20% free space on the Hard Drives that your Media, Projects and Events are on.
    If you are getting crashes, there is some conflict on the OS. Create a new (admin) user account on your system. Do NOT import any of the settings etc from the old account - simply use FCP X from there - if it runs a lot better, there's a conflict and a clean install would be recommended - but remember, if you reinstall the system, and then use Migration Assistant (or anything else) to import all your old settings etc etc, you may well be importing the cause of the conflict in the first place.
    Keep projects to 20 mins or less (about half that for Multicam). If you have a long project, work on short sections, make them into Compound Clips and then paste these into a final project for export.
    If you ever experience dropped frames, I strongly recommend you use ProRes 422 Proxy - it edits and plays back like silk because the files are small but lightly compressed (not much packing and unpacking to do) - but remember to select 'Original or Optimised Media' (FCP X Preferences > Playback) just before you export your movie, otherwise it will be exported at low resolution.
    If you have plenty of processor power, for the ultimate editing experience, create Optimised Media - most camera native files are highly compressed and need a great deal of processor power to play back - particularly if you add titles, filters or effects. ProRes 422 takes up much more hard drive space but is very lightly compressed. It edits and plays back superbly.
    Hide Audio Waveforms at all times when you don't need them (both in Browser and Storyline / Timeline). They take up a lot of processor power. (Use the switch icon at the bottom-right of your timeline to select a format without waveforms if you don't need them at the moment, then switch back when you do).
    Create folders in the Project and Events libraries and put any projects you are not working on currently, in those folders. This will help a lot. There's a great application for this, called Event Manager X - for the tiny cost it's an invaluable application.
    http://assistedediting.intelligentassistance.com/EventManagerX/
    Unless you cannot edit and playback without it, turn off Background Rendering in Preferences (under Playback) - this will help general performance and you can always render when you need to by selecting the clip (or clips) and pressing Ctrl+R.
    The biggest single improvement I saw in performance was when I upgraded the RAM from 8 GB to 16.
    Andy

  • My 2009 MacBook Pro keeps restarting even after I wiped the hard drive and reinstalled OSX.

    About a month ago, my laptop started to randomly turn off: I would be using either Chrome, Photoshop (the free CS2 version available from Adobe's website) or Powerpoint, and the screen would go blank. I would then have to hold the power button for a while until the little light at the front of the computer would flicker and it would restart. I brought it to the Mac Store where they tested it and said it looked fine. They suggested I erase my hard drive and reinstall OSX as a precaution.
    Fast forward a month, I have been very busy with work and hadn't been able to fix this problem. It wasn't that bad, only once every couple of days, sometimes more, sometimes less, I could work despite this problem.
    Then, I installed OSX Mavericks. The installation started in the morning, but, like an idiot, I paused it to go to work. Later on, I completed the installation, it looked fine, but then all day long my laptop would suddenly restart and go to a grey screen that said in multiple languages "Your laptop restarted because of a problem, press any button to continue the restart." A computer technician friend of mine checked it out and said it was probably due to the badly installed OSX and suggested that I erase my hard drive and reinstall OSX.
    I backed up all my files, erased the hard drive and reinstalled OSX. Everything looked fine.
    Then it happened again.
    Any ideas of why this is happening?

    Please read this whole message before doing anything.
    This procedure is a diagnostic test. It’s unlikely to solve your problem. Don’t be disappointed when you find that nothing has changed after you complete it.
    The purpose of the test is to determine whether the problem is caused by third-party software that loads automatically at startup or login, by a peripheral device, by a font conflict, or by corruption of the file system or of certain system caches.
    Disconnect all wired peripherals except those needed for the test, and remove all aftermarket expansion cards, if applicable. Start up in safe mode and log in to the account with the problem. You must hold down the shift key twice: once when you turn on the computer, and again when you log in.
    Note: If FileVault is enabled, or if a firmware password is set, or if the startup volume is a Fusion Drive or a software RAID, you can’t do this. Ask for further instructions.
    Safe mode is much slower to start up and run than normal, with limited graphics performance, and some things won’t work at all, including sound output and Wi-Fi on certain models. The next normal startup may also be somewhat slow.
    The login screen appears even if you usually login automatically. You must know your login password in order to log in. If you’ve forgotten the password, you will need to reset it before you begin.
    Test while in safe mode. Same problem?
    After testing, restart as usual (not in safe mode) and verify that you still have the problem. Post the results of the test.

  • HT4527 I just had to clear the hard drive on my computer - now I want to transfer all the music and pictures from my ipad back onto my computer.  'Sync' doesn't do it.  What do I do?

    I had toclear the hard drive of my computer and reinstall Windows 7.  Now I want to transfer all the music and photos from my iPad back onto my computer.  I authorized the computer (it is the ONLY computer authorized on this account - and this is the ONLY account on this iPad).  ITunes then downloaded my purchases...or at least it tried - out of the hundreds of tracks I have purchased, it managed one album that I bought over a year ago and NOTHING else.  So I tried to Sync - since on older versions of iTunes (that were SO MUCH MORE user friendly) that would do the job -transferring things that were only on the iPad onto the computer and vice versa.  It doesn't do that anymore.  So I went from my iPad's summary to the Music tab - the box for Music was not checked but when I checked it said the only thing it could do was erase EVERYTHING from my iPad and replace it with what was on my computer (that ONE album).  What is going on?
    Why hasn't iTunes downloaded my other purchases since I authorized the computer? (there are over 3,000 tracks...not 18)
    How can I download my iPad to my computer?

    -Me again - it also won't upload the few new pictures I have on the computer onto the iPad without deleting all the photos that are already there....

  • If the problem's not the Hard Drive, what is it?

    My Powerbook G4 got knocked off a table and started acting up right away (crashing, freezing). I did a disk doctor check and it said my HDD was fine. I formatted the disk just in case and reinstalled the OS. It still didn't work. I brought the laptop to the Genius Bar, who told me that it's still probably the hard drive, even though Disk Doctor gave it a clean bill of health. So I bought a new hard drive and carefully and tediously installed it. I then formatted it and installed a new OS. Seemed fine. I ran the intro and all that, then shut it down, thinking all was well. The next day I booted it up, got the chime and apple logo, and the progress bar went about 20% and then froze. It now does that every time I try to reboot and the only option is to hold down the power button to shut it down.
    So, to summarize, the thing won't boot into the OS and I've replaced the hard drive. What else could the problem be?
    Message was edited by: Rob Lichter

    OK, I have a G4 powerbook with a new 80gb hard drive.
    You have either a 2004 PB G4 12" 1.33 GHz or a 2005 PB G4 12" 1.5 GHz computer. In either case, if you have the orginal HDD in the computer it is at an age where it will be functionally and physically degraded. Replacing the HDD was likely the right move.
    I installed a 518 RAM card before this issue arose, but the problem seems to exist independant of that RAM.
    You likely installed a 512 MB module.
    Apparently the fall did something else to your computer, but it is not possbile to tell at this point. I suggest that you proceed as BGreg suggested. Boot from the Apple Hardware Test disk that came with your computer and run the extended tests in a loop (hold down Control + L during tests) and let it run for several hours, if necessary, as it may take a while for intermittent issues to surface.
    cornelius

  • Power supply dead? Can I get at the Hard drive?

    I recently had a storm which blew one of my external firewire drives (it goes on but won't mount) and when I tried using my older G4 (Quicksilver, with OS10.3.9, and Classic) to boot up in OS9 and try my Norton Utilities, the G4 froze. It did it several times. I eventually pulled the power cord. When I plugged it back it, there was a spark (at the plug in point on the G4, not the wall outlet. Since then, it won't power up.
    I tried booting it up in firewire disk mode and using my Intel MacPro, but no dice.
    I did a search and have seen discussion on what sounds like my same problem. I hold the power button and the light goes on, but goes right off as soon as I let go.
    I tried pressing the PMU; I saw a lot of discussion about the CUDA button but it seems these are one and the same thing. I removed the small battery and tried to get a replacement but have not succeeded as yet. Though I don't think that's the problem. It might be the power supply.
    Anyway, here's my question: can I use the power supply and/or battery from an even older Mac, a PPC 8600?
    And, whether or not that works, can I yank the hard drive from my G4, along with a second internal drive I put in (slave) in order to get data of it? (I'll give up trying to fix the G$ itself if I can just get my files off it.
    *While I'm at it, can I take apart the external firewire drive that won't mount, and get at the files on that in some way. I tried Data Rescue ll but the drive still would not mount so that was useless.
    Any help on any of these will be greatly appreciated. (Yes, I do have a nice big powerful UPS but the G4 and the external were no plugged in to it).
    Thanks
    noodle--head grrum...PY

    Hi-
    To recover your hard drives and data (including the external) get yourself a housing, and insert a drive, and move data to a different computer.
    You'll want a firewire external housing with the Oxford chipset. I can recommend any of the FW or FW combo housings by OWC on the following page:
    http://eshop.macsales.com/shop/firewire/add-ons-and-hubs/enclosure-kits
    You will need a QS power supply-others won't work.
    If you end up wanting a power supply for the QS, check eBay, or the following:
    http://www.mac-resource.com/store.php?item=6612513.PART
    http://hardcoremac.stores.yahoo.net/pog4quposu34.html
    As for the battery, as long as it is the same 3.6v and form factor, any will do:
    http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Newer%20Technology/BAA36VPRAM/
    The Radio Shack P/N is 23-026.
    G4AGP(450)Sawtooth, 2ghz PowerLogix, 2gbRAM, 300gbSATA+160gbATA, ATI Radeon 9800   Mac OS X (10.4.8)   Pioneer DVR-109, ExtHD 160gb x2, 23"Cinema Display, Ratoc USB2.0, Nikon Coolscan

  • Can I swap the hard drive from MacBook Pro 17 (2009) to MacBook Pro 15 (2006)?

    My MacBook Pro 17 (2009) died. Pushing the power button gets no response. I had had problems with it for some time turning it on, it usually taking many many tries. Plus when I'd try to do a restart after updating software, instead of doing so it'd shut off super quick with a *pop* sound. There was never any of the typical hard drive going bad sounds I've read about and seen in videos. Since it has refused to turn on I've gone through every suggestion I can find to get it to turn back on. Unhook the battery and try starting from just the power cord; the shorting the power pads move; some thing undoing the battery, counting to 10, and then the next steps now escape my memory, but doing more counting to 10 inbetween; unplugging the battery and leaving it sit for 2 days with no power cord plugged in either, then hook it to a power cord and turn it back on; and so many more.
    Also the symptoms just before this fiasco were as follows: I had a CD in the internal drive and was browsing through the images on it via the handy previewer using the space bar. Then I decided to quite, tried ejecting the CD by dragging the icon to the trash, and nothing. I tried again. The same. Then I pushed on the eject key, with the ejct icon popping up on the screen momentarily, but still nothing. Then it appreared as though some things worked and other things were not working. In my frustration I went to the Apple menu and clicked restart with a wince knowing it was going to take forever to turn back on. It did the usual quickly off with a *pop* and made super short lame attempts to turn back on when using the power button. Of course the CD kept trying to spin for a split second and then the little indicator light on the front would go out, then no noise at all.
    Since I do not believe it is the hard drive (of course I could be wrong not being a Mac nerd at all), I was wondering if I can switch the hard drive to my Macbook Pro 15 (2006)?
    I tried this, but it would not read the hard drive. Just a blank grey screen. If it is possible to do this swap, what are the exact steps to do? Please answer like I'm completely illiterate on this, because I really am. I'm super scared of losing everything on the dead MacBook's hard drive. Yeah yeah, I know: then why have I not been backing things up? I had the week prior. Believe me I WILL be doing it daily from now on if I get this mess straightened out!
    Here are the specs for each MacBook Pro:
    Name: MacBook Pro 17 (info gained from the serial on the bottom and then looked up online)
    Model: A1297
    Model Code: mbp_17_early_09
    CPU Type: Intel Core 2 Duo
    CPU Speed: 2.8GHz
    RAM Type: DDR3 PC8500 SODIMM 1066MHz
    RAM Slots: 2
    Max RAM by Slot: 2 x 4GB
    Maximum RAM: 8GB
    RAM Pairing: Modules may be installed individually
    Hard Drive Connection: SATA 300
    Hard Drive Platter Size: 2.5"
    Device Connectivity: USB 2.0, FireWire 800
    Video Output (base graphics option): Mini DisplayPort
    Expansion Slots: ExpressCard/34
    Max Operating System Version: 10.6.8 (I believe that is what was last on the computer)
    Name:    MacBook Pro 15" (retrieved from the System Profiler on this Mac)
      Model Identifier:    MacBookPro2,2
      Processor Name:    Intel Core 2 Duo
      Processor Speed:    2.33 GHz
      Number Of Processors:    1
      Total Number Of Cores:    2
      L2 Cache:    4 MB
      Memory:    3 GB
      Bus Speed:    667 MHz
      Boot ROM Version:    MBP22.00A5.B07
      SMC Version (system):    1.12f5

    OGELTHORPE really sorry to keep bugging you, but it's obvious you know what you are talking about and I'm stuck on thin ice here getting this fixed, because there are no authorized Apple reps here. I would rather shoot myself for messing up, then to trust someone who "says" they can fix my Mac down here.
    I checked out a company owned by ebay that is the same down here, called MercadoLibre. There are quite a few adapters listed there. I'd like to give you links for some and was wondering if you minded taking a look to tell me if any seem to fit the bill. Some have specs in English, others don't. (Google translater is my friend!)
    #1.  http://articulo.mercadolibre.com.uy/MLU-415826915-adaptador-usb-a-ide-y-sata-con -cables-y-fuente-envio-gratis-_JM
    #2. http://articulo.mercadolibre.com.uy/MLU-416270876-usb-20-to-ide-sata-25-35-hard- drive-_JM#D[S:HOME,L:HISTORY,V:1]
    #3.  http://articulo.mercadolibre.com.uy/MLU-416384859-adaptador-usb-20-a-sataide-_JM
    #4.  http://articulo.mercadolibre.com.uy/MLU-415596152-adaptador-usb-20-para-sata-e-i de-manhattan-_JM
    #5.  http://articulo.mercadolibre.com.uy/MLU-416061182-adaptador-de-usb-a-sata-o-ide- 3525-con-fuente-externa-_JM
    #6. http://articulo.mercadolibre.com.uy/MLU-416061069-convertidor-usb-20-a-sata-hdd- 25-soporta-hasta-1tb-_JM
    These are all cost effective enough that I don't care the price - cheap, expensive - whichever will work the BEST!
    I've also looked for the 7200 rpm HDD, and although I found some, I'll be danged if they are not 3.0, instead of the 2.5 that I have. Grrrr! I was willing to spend the $90 for 1tb... or being the non-techie that I am, can this 3.0 go into my 2006 MBP??
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