Choose the answer

Which two are attributes of /SQL*Plus? (Choose two)
A. /SQL*Plus commands cannot be abbreviated.
B. /SQL*Plus commands are accesses from a browser.
C. /SQL*Plus commands are used to manipulate data in tables.
D. /SQL*Plus commands manipulate table definitions in the database.
E. /SQL*Plus is the Oracle proprietary interface for executing SQL stat
Plz tell me the answer for the above Question
Regards,
Karthick.CS

C, D
C. UPDATE, SQL*Plus commands are used to manipulate
data in tables.
D. ALTER, SQL*Plus commands manipulate table
definitions in the database.UPDATE & ALTER are SQL*Plus commands? Interesting....

Similar Messages

Please answer me... can I choose the language in a rental

please answer me... can I choose the language in a rental movie????

If you are speaking of an iTunes rental? then I do not believe so......the credits for the film will show what language subtitles are available for the film.....

I am being forced to create 3 security question from your dropdown list and I can choose the questions but can't enter anything in the answer field??

I am being forced to create 3 security question from your dropdown list and I can choose the questions but can't enter anything in the answer field??

The problem is twenty three people leaving or twenty three thousand leaving has zero impact on a carrier with over 100 million customers. And they have the lowest churn rate. So if 10,000 or 20,000 or more churn out it means little to the carrier.
If you have a real lawyer he/she will advise you that you have no case. The device was not lost or stolen by the carrier, you were not eligible for a new device, and like any business who employs large numbers of poorly trained personnel who make low wages what was told to you is not in writing. So a verbal exchange does not hold up.
In fact in Verizon's customer agreement it has such a disclaimer against any verbal exchanges so if you have that agreement in writing, go get them.
The posting on public forums and places like Face Book, Linkin, Google+ or a personal web site can open you up to a lawsuit for Dilution of Trade Name, and other offences. However if you have proof then go for it.
Unfortunately that is how big business works today. A pity

HT5312 I no longer have access to the email address used as my Apple ID and when I choose to answer security questions, my DOB had to have been originally entered incorrectly because it keeps failing. How do I get rid of my old Apple ID and create a new

I no longer have access to the email address used as my Apple ID and when I choose to answer security questions, my DOB had to have been originally entered incorrectly because it keeps failing. How do I get rid of my old Apple ID and create a new one?

Contact Apple, either through the link in that article or by phoning them. Alternatively, just create a new Apple ID; previous iTunes Store purchases won't be transferred to it.
(79271)

My security questions keep changing. I want to change them to questions I choose. I did not choose these questions, nor do I know the answers to all.

My security questions keep changing. I want to change them to questions I choose. I did not choose these questions, nor do I know the answers to all. I recently changed my password successfully, and I wanted to change the security questions and could not.

Welcome to the Apple Community.
Start here, and reset your security questions, you will receive an email to your rescue address, use the link in the email and reset your security questions.
If that doesn't help or you don't have a rescue address, you might try contacting Apple through iTunes Store Support

I copied some photos from the main album to a new album. And I need to delete these photos from the main album so as to have them only to the new album. When I select the photos and choose delete I get the answer DELETE EVERYWHERE

Ι copied some photos from the main album to a new album. And I need to delete these photos from the main album so as to have them only to the new album. When I select the photos and choose delete I get the answer DELETE EVERYWHERE. I don't have the choice to delete it only from the main album.

You mean you copied photos from your camera roll to a new album, correct? Well, that's the way it works. The photos wern't actually copied to your new album, just pointers to the actual photos, which are still in your camera roll. So, yes, if you delete from your camera roll, you remove them from your phone.

Choosing the Right Power Supply

First things first. If you've got a poor-quality and/or faulty power supply, nothing else you do will work to solve your problems. Stick to the basics before you go further...The short answer is to buy a hi-powered, brand name supply, like the new ENERMAX line (430 W or higher) or ANTEC True550. Almost nothing else will do with today's computers. In over 30 years of electronic/computer service, I have found that 85% or more of problems were power-related.
If you want to know more, read on...
Choosing The Right Power Supply
If you’re reading this, there’s a good chance that one of my colleagues or I believe that you could be experiencing problems with your power supply, based upon the symptoms you mentioned in your post, and provided you with this link. Relax, you’re not alone. In 30 years of electronic and computer troubleshooting, I’d say that the majority of the electronic, mainframe, mini, and microcomputer problems I’ve diagnosed and repaired were with the basic power the problematic device was receiving. The symptoms often included random reboots, crashing, the BSOD, lockups, etc.
(As the national support technician for few major computer service companies, working US Defense contracts, I was often the person that had to fly in and correct the problem, or “walk through” the on-site technician as he closely followed my instructions. I achieved success in my career by carefully reading the manuals, knowing where to go for more information that was otherwise unavailable to me, and/or systematically troubleshooting until the problems were discovered and repaired. I never had the option of giving up.)
The most overlooked component when building or upgrading a PC is the power supply unit (PSU). Some people use their old case and PSU when they upgrade. Some use the PSU that came with their new case. Some people even buy a new PSU. And most inexperienced builders all make the same mistake: The PSU that they’re trying to use is simply inadequate for the job.
Suppose you’re upgrading to a new motherboard, CPU, ram, and video card, but still using the old case and PSU. It’s most likely that you’re upgrading in order to build a machine that is more powerful, faster, has a more colorful display, can number-crunch more quickly, play the latest games, etc. These gains in performance all have one thing in common: They require more raw power. However, have you thought about where that power comes from?
Suppose you’re building a new system with a new case and PSU. Has it occurred to you that the company that you bought the case/PSU from might make more money if they skimp on the supply, even if the supply has a large wattage rating? Most bulk power supply manufacturers don’t make good PSU’s. They use older, cheaper technology, and slap on labels that represent the PSU’s peak outputs, and not their continuous output rating. These companies are intentionally misleading you in order to sell you an inferior product. Brands I avoid when building/repairing my friends’ and family’s computers: Allied, Q-Tec, Chieftech, and many others.
For those of you who bought a power supply separately, did you know that you’re only supposed to run a power supply continuously at 30-70% (with 50% being optimal) of its continuous rating for maximum efficiency (which means less heat to you)? Most inexperienced builders either buy PSU’s that are matched to their equipment’s continuous power usage, or ones that are even less powerful than they need. Why? Because they’re trying to save money.
I mean, what’s the fun in a power supply? You don’t get any games with it, there’s no more storage, hardly ever any more bells and whistles, etc. A power supply is boring, and it’s supposed to be, because it’s supposed to provide a stable, reliable platform upon which the rest of the equipment can easily access the amount of power it needs, and when it’s needed. In almost EVERY review of powers supplies, the same point is stressed: Better safe than sorry.
But what does safe vs sorry mean? It can mean that you don’t have to waste money on the wrong PSU in the first place, but it can also mean that you don’t have to replace your expensive ram, CPU, video card, etc. NEEDLESSLY, or because your cheap PSU destroyed them. What? A cheap power supply can wreck your computer? YES IT CAN. A cheap power supply can cause thermal damage, not only from the heat it produces, but also the heat it can create in your components as well. RAM is especially sensitive to heat, and there’s RAM in your CPU, your video cards, and, well, your RAM too. A cheap switching power supply, run at its maximum, or peak, continuously can also destroy components by creating RF (Radio Frequency) signals on your power rails, signals which the components on your peripheral devices were not equipped to handle in the first place.
So this begs the question, how does one choose the right power supply? I’ll illustrate this using my own PC as the example. This is my setup that I use for video processing:
K7N2G-ILSR
Athlon 2500+ Barton @ 2125Mhz
AMD Retail Heatsink/Fan
2 - 512MB DDR333 w/Thermaltake Spreaders (slot 1&3)
MSI TV@nywhere Video Capture
ATI Radeon 9600
120GB Maxtor DiamondMax Plus 9 SATA
30GB Quantum IDE
TEAC DV-W50E DVD/CD-R/W
BTC DVD-ROM Drive
Artec CD-R/W
Using this Power Supply Calculator link:
http://www.jscustompcs.com/power_supply/
I plug in all my equipment values, but some of this can be a little tricky. For example, since I often run the CPU like an XP 3000, I choose the 3000 as my processor; it’s the same chip run at the faster rate. I also choose the ATI Radeon video card, and I select the RAM wattage for 2 sticks of DDR. I also choose every card I have, like my video capture card, but I also select the boxes for the separate cards that correspond to the functions that my ILSR provides as well (and that I use), like sound, USB, Firewire, NIC, etc. Although I use the onboard SATA controller, I don’t select the SCSI PCI card, because, in truth, I’ve probably made up for it by selecting all the other corresponding devices, including cards that the motherboard replaces. I check the boxes for the fans and drives I use, and I’m done, right?
Not yet.
I just remembered that I plan to upgrade soon, so I go back and change the values to reflect my impending changes. I mean, I want to make sure that I have enough power to begin with so that I don’t have to replace the power supply again, right?
Ok. Done. I look at the bottom and see that it tells me that I need a 468 watt PSU. So a 480 watt supply will do, right? Wrong.
Remember that, for efficiency, long-life, and less heat, you want your actual power consumption to fall between 30-70% of the PSU’s rating, so add 30% (minimum) to the 468, and you get 468 + (468*.30)= 608 Watts! Holy Cow!
However, I’d only need a 608-Watt supply if I was using all the devices at once, and I don’t. But, in truth, with video and audio processing, I often get close when I process, burn, and monitor at the same time. (Hardcore gamers also get close a lot, as they blast the sound and push that video to its limits.) So, let’s take off 10% (maximum) of 608, for a total of 541 Watts.
I need a 550 Watt supply, but not just ANY 550 watt PSU. I need a supply that can give me enough power on the critical 3.3, 5, and 12V rails combined. I also want a supply from a trusted, name-brand manufacturer, so I start hitting the many online reviews. Here are just two from Tom’s Hardware:
http://www6.tomshardware.com/howto/20030609/index.html
http://www6.tomshardware.com/howto/20021021/index.html
Read these in their entirety. I didn’t post them because they’re pretty links.
In the end, I chose Antec, because they’ve got the reputation, the recommendation, and because the Antec True550 has better specs than the rest of the 550 Watt competition. I also bought it from a reputable company I found on Pricegrabber.com, for the lowest price I could find, $95.00 shipped to my door. (In truth, I wanted two mini-redundant supplies, like the hospitals and military use, but they were too expensive.)
The result? Not only are the random reboots, crashing, the BSOD, lockups, etc., gone like magic, but I also now have “peace of mind” in that whatever might happen to my equipment in the future, I know almost for certain that the PSU is NOT the problem. I also bought an UPS, because the East Coast Blackout proved to me that even the Antec True550 isn’t going to provide me any power for emergency shutdown if it doesn’t get its power from somewhere.
Even if your problem doesn’t lie in the PSU completely, it gives you a GREAT platform for troubleshooting further. If you’re not reasonably certain that the supply is the cause, borrow one, or buy one that you can return once you’ve solved the problem. But, above all else, BUY THE RIGHT SUPPLY before you do anything else! Otherwise, you could be plugging and unplugging components, buying and blowing up expensive memory, and causing even further damage, until you give up or die.
I mean, I assume you built your own system to enjoy “more bang for your buck,” right? What’s the fun of a random reboot in the middle of Unreal Tournament 2003?
William Hopkins
Former Staff Sergeant, USAF
B.A., B.S., with Honors
The University of California, San Diego
[email protected]
P.S. It should be noted that while Enermax, ThermalTake, Zalman, Fortron, and others make great PSU’s, and I compared and considered them, the Antec still won out overall in my critical evaluation, like it did in so may others’ reviews. You’d probably be ok if you went with another reputable manufacturer as listed above, but pick a supply that gives you at least 230 watts on the 3.3 and 5V lines combined, and still meets the 30% criteria as stated above. Remember, if the manufacturers don’t give you maximum combined specs up front, they’re untrustworthy right off the bat. With power supplies, you definitely end up getting what you pay for. Don’t say nobody warned you.
P.P.S. Update! After recent developments, it looks like Enermax is the leader, but only the latest line of PSU's.

Ok, as an electrical engineer...I have to step in here! LOL
First, these amp rating are for 2 +12 rails. That is why you see a protection of around 15-18A on the +12 rail. That means each Rail is allowed up to 18A lets say for the new Enermax 1.2 version like the one I have.
Now, Lets say 18A for 12V....well as you know the Abit NF7-S uses the 12V for powering the CPU.
Lets say you have a Barton like me and you want it stable at around 2.4-2.5Ghz. You will have to put lets say around 2V to the cpu to get it stable at that kinda speed, specially if you have high FSB like I do. So 12V * 18Amps = 216W ....well the converter on the NFS-7 is really bad, its loss on the step down convertion is probably around 25% along with the PSU lost cuz its not running at 25oC (another 15%)....you will actually only get around 100-120W for the CPU.
Now, if you go into Sandra and see how much a Barton eats up at 2.4Ghz you will see its around 110Watts.
So, if you wanna push more, dont even think about it! Prime Power test fails and your +12 rail will drop as low as 11.60 Volts.
Now, lets say you got yourself a AMD 64 bit chip and you wanna overclock it....I bet it will need more than 110Watts.
So, what im saying is, dont buy nothing less than a 500 Watt PSU!
You really need around 20-22 A on the main +12 along with really really good cooling on the case and PSU so it is running at a 100%.
http://forums.amdmb.com/showindex.php?s=&threadid=287828
i found this quite interesting especially the bit re the power loss turning the 12v into 1.6v or what ever cpu needs

When I try to save a webpage as a bookmark, the options window where I choose the folder where I will save it is disappearing when I try selecting it

Step 1. I open a web page.
Step2. I press ctrl+d.
Step3. I do not see the window where I choose the folder I wish the bookmark to be saved in.
Step4. I clicked the star button on the right corner of location bar.
Step5. I see the window now.
Step 6. When I move the cursor down that window to choose the folder it again disappears.
Step 7. I randomly click at a spot in the area where the window disappeared.
Step 8. I realize that it does not go away but stays hidden disappearing.[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WV050BObT9I]

hello bdavis106, please refer to [[Find and manage downloaded files]].

Can i choose the resolution of my external display for when the lid is closed when my lid is open

When I close the lid of my MacBook Pro for an external display apple chooses a resolution that isn't compatible with my display can I choose the resolution when the lid is open in any way of my external display for the mode when the lid is closed?

Hi there, I had a similar problem and was unable to resolve it. I spent about an hour on the phone with a very helpful AppleCare rep who was also completely stuck. It would seem that the only solution is to choose a setting with trial and error while the lid is closed.
My MacBook ended up getting stuck on a closed-lid reoslution that wasn't supported, so I had to do a screen-share with another device to see what the video card was sending to the external display and change it back that way.

HT201240 This process does not appear to work for me. I'm running 10.8.3. I created a new user for a guest staying with me. They have gone now and I am attempting to either change the password or delete the user. It won't allow me to choose the user I

This process does not appear to work for me. I'm running 10.8.3. I created a new user for a guest staying with me. They have gone now and I am attempting to either change the password or delete the user. It won't allow me to choose the user I created. I am logged in as myself and it states that I am an "Admin". The user I'm attempting to change is listed as a "standard" user and there is a white checkmark inside an orange circular background on the user pic in the list of users.
Can someone help me? I am having a hard time believing that OSx will allow me to create users and allow them use of my computer and it's drives, yet it will not allow me to change the password so I can monitor what they might have been doing while logged on? What if this were my child? This guest left under sketchy circumstances, and I'd really like to be able to ensure they were not using my computer to do illegal things or to have illegal communications.
Any help would be appreciated. (It's odd that it was so simple to "create" a user and set a password for them.......but it's complicated or a little known process to reverse.
Thanks.

Here are two screen shots to show you what I am seeing. The first screen shot shows it allowing me to select (highlighted in blue) my admin user (which is what I am locced in as). The second screen shot shows it allowing me to select the "Guest" user (highlighted in blue). However when I click on the user "Orion" nothing happens. It will not change to highlight that user.

All of a sudden I can't forward my emails because when I go to choose the people to send them too the window won't pop up. The same thing for any other site that uses a pop up window. What do I do?

It happened all of a sudden, any site that requires a new window to open to sign up for something or to choose something it just won't do it. I can't forward any emails because in order to choose the people I'm sending the email to, a new small window with my address book pops up and Mozilla won't let it happen. How can I change this back to the way it was?

Mike,
Are any of your other applications going wonky, or is it just Logic?
I'm afraid I've never heard of this particular problem before, but if it were happening to me the first thing I would do is delete my "com.apple.logic.express.plist" file in Library>Preferences, then repair permissions in Disc Utility, and finally restart my computer. Then I would launch Logic and see if the problem has been corrected. It's amazing how much these two steps can accomplish.
If that doesn't resolve the issue I would launch Logic and go to Preferences>Audio Units Manager to see if all my plug-ins are properly validated.

In the report builder 6i when I choose the query type as Express Query .....

In the report builder 6i when I choose the query type as Express Query and go to next step where on pressing the connect button I am getting the following error.
REP-6029 : Express error.
How can I solve this problem ?
Thanks
Nanda Kishore

DiId you download Oracle Reports Developer/Server Release 6i for Express, Files for Oracle8i for Windows NT from OTN?
If so, could you provide me wih more information?
Thanks
Elaine

Unable to open the photos in reviewer, every time I click on the photo on , it says do not have permission to view the photo. Please open the item in the finder choose the item and click on get info . What am I suppose to change in the setting on getinf

Unable to open the photos in reviewer, every time I click on the photo on , it says do not have permission to view the photo. Please open the item in the finder choose the item and click on <get info>. What am I suppose to change in the setting on <get info>

Back up all data.
This procedure will unlock all your user files (not system files) and reset their ownership and access-control lists to the default. If you've set special values for those attributes on any of your files, they will be reverted. In that case, either stop here, or be prepared to recreate the settings if necessary. Do so only after verifying that those settings didn't cause the problem. If none of this is meaningful to you, you don't need to worry about it.
Step 1
If you have more than one user, and the one in question is not an administrator, then go to Step 2.
Triple-click anywhere in the following line on this page to select it:
{ sudo chflags -R nouchg,nouappnd ~ $TMPDIR..; sudo chown -R $UID:staff ~ $_; sudo chmod -R u+rwX ~ $_; chmod -R -N ~ $_; } 2>&-
Copy the selected text to the Clipboard by pressing the key combination command-C.
Launch the built-in Terminal application in any of the following ways:
☞ Enter the first few letters of its name into a Spotlight search. Select it in the results (it should be at the top.)
☞ In the Finder, select Go ▹ Utilities from the menu bar, or press the key combination shift-command-U. The application is in the folder that opens.
☞ Open LaunchPad. Click Utilities, then Terminal in the icon grid.
Paste into the Terminal window by pressing command-V. I've tested these instructions only with the Safari web browser. If you use another browser, you may have to press the return key after pasting.
You'll be prompted for your login password. Nothing will be displayed when you type it. You may get a one-time warning to be careful. If you don’t have a login password, you’ll need to set one before you can run the command. If you see a message that your username "is not in the sudoers file," then you're not logged in as an administrator.
The command may take a few minutes to run, or perhaps longer if you have literally millions of files in your home folder. Wait for a new line ending in a dollar sign ($) to appear, then quit Terminal.
Step 2 (optional)
Take this step only if you have trouble with Step 1, if it frightens you, or if it doesn't solve the problem.
Start up in Recovery mode. When the OS X Utilities screen appears, select
Utilities ▹ Terminal
from the menu bar. A Terminal window will open.
In the Terminal window, type this:
res
Press the tab key. The partial command you typed will automatically be completed to this:
resetpassword
Press return. A Reset Password dialog will open. You’re not going to reset a password.
In the dialog, select the startup volume ("Macintosh HD," unless you gave it a different name) if it's not already selected.
Select your username from the menu labeled Select the user account if it's not already selected.
Under Reset Home Directory Permissions and ACLs, click the Reset button.
Select
 ▹ Restart
from the menu bar.

Firefox will not let me get on any websites (safe AND not safe), claiming that it "may pose a security threat to your system"; when I try to choose the "proceed unprotected" option, it won't let me.

My computer's anti-virus software recently expired. A few days later, I went to download a new anti-virus software . . . when I opened up Firefox, I received a warning that claimed Firefox was infected with "Trojan-BNK.Win32.Keylogger.gen", and gave me two options: "Activate XP Security 2011 (recommended)" (this was a $60 charge and required credit card info) or "Continue unprotected (Dangerous)"
Since I needed to install new anti-virus, I figured I would continue unprotected, download my new software quickly, and remove the virus. But when Firefox opened, it gave me a message saying: "Firefox alert. Visiting this site may pose a security threat to your system!". Gave me three options:
1. "Get a copy of 'XP Security 2011' to safeguard your PC while surfing the web (RECOMMENDED)"
2. "Run a spyware, virus and malware scan" (I already did this)
3. "Continue surfing without any security measures (DANGEROUS)"
I tried clicking on different links, but the same warning kept showing up, even on verified and safe sites. I tried to choose the third option so that I could download my anti-virus software quickly, but nothing happened when I clicked on it - the page reloads and the warning shows up again.
My computer is still without anti-virus software because Firefox will not let me surf the internet. Please help!

It sounds as though your PC is infected with fake antivirus software. The detailed cleanup instructions vary depending on which fake AV you have. However, as a first step, try this:
Download the following on a different PC, copy them to a USB flash drive or CD, and then run them on the infected PC:
Malwarebytes Anti-malware : http://www.malwarebytes.org/mbam.php
SUPERAntiSpyware : http://www.superantispyware.com/
Hopefully these will get you back online safely. If not, search for clean-up instructions for the specific malware.

RE: Installed "Access Denied" posting. I have same problem and none of the answers have worked. Ownership is blank but application will not accept me.

RE: "Access Denied" question following install of Firefox. I have same problem. Details follow: I tried opening in Safe Mode which did not work. I have Administrative access. When I click the general tab in properties I get a message that "firefox.exe" does not exist. Neither that file nor any other "install" type of file appears in the Mozilla Firefox directory except for "uninstall". I have downloaded and tried to install seven times from six different sources, including Mozilla, all with the same results. I've also tried a number of solutions from the web for this error message with no greater success. I tried, first, doing an upgrade then deleted the older version of Firefox and have done "install" since. Avast, Malwarebytes and Threatfire have found no malware.
I have never had a similar problem with Firefox before and I've used it for years. Anyone have any ideas I haven't already tried? I'm tired of using Internet Explorer! RE: troubleshooting information below--Windown will not open the downloaded file.

These steps are recommended for this error message mentioned:
[https://support.mozilla.org/en-US/kb/troubleshoot-extensions-themes-to-fix-problems Troubleshooting Extensions and Themes], however it seems like you may need to reinstall Firefox since the directory cannot be found.
Other solutions to this have been to uninstall and use CCleaner to clean up any old registries. However this will loose data from the profile.
I am seeing the errors and troubleshooting steps all mentioned here:
*[http://compinfopro.com/windows-cannot-access-the-specified-device-path-or-file/]
And it seems the best bet would be to uninstall and reinstall. If you can see the profile folder, it is possible to make a back up of the profile [[Back up and restore information in Firefox profiles]] here.
For a clean reinstall:
Certain Firefox problems can be solved by performing a ''Clean reinstall''. This means you remove Firefox program files and then reinstall Firefox. Please follow these steps:
'''Note:''' You might want to print these steps or view them in another browser.
#Download the latest Desktop version of Firefox from [https://www.mozilla.org mozilla.org] (or choose the download for your operating system and language from [https://www.mozilla.org/firefox/all/ this page]) and save the setup file to your computer.
#After the download finishes, close all Firefox windows (or open the Firefox menu [[Image:New Fx Menu]] and click the close button [[Image:Close 29]]).
#Delete the Firefox installation folder, which is located in one of these locations, by default:
#*'''Windows:'''
#**C:\Program Files\Mozilla Firefox
#**C:\Program Files (x86)\Mozilla Firefox
#*'''Mac:''' Delete Firefox from the Applications folder.
#*'''Linux:''' If you installed Firefox with the distro-based package manager, you should use the same way to uninstall it - see [[Installing Firefox on Linux]]. If you downloaded and installed the binary package from the [http://www.mozilla.org/firefox#desktop Firefox download page], simply remove the folder ''firefox'' in your home directory.
#Now, go ahead and reinstall Firefox:
##Double-click the downloaded installation file and go through the steps of the installation wizard.
##Once the wizard is finished, choose to directly open Firefox after clicking the Finish button.
More information about reinstalling Firefox can be found [[Troubleshoot and diagnose Firefox problems#w_5-reinstall-firefox|here]].
<b>WARNING:</b> Do not use a third party uninstaller as part of this process. Doing so could permanently delete your [[Profiles|Firefox profile]] data, including but not limited to, extensions, cache, cookies, bookmarks, personal settings and saved passwords. <u>These cannot be easily recovered unless they have been backed up to an external device!</u> See [[Back up and restore information in Firefox profiles]]. 
Please report back to say if this helped you!
Thank you.

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