Choosing the right external drive

Hi
It's about time I backed up my systems before it's too late.
I'm going to purchase an external firewire hard drive to backup an iBook G3 900Mhz & an iMac intel core duo
1) Can I use a S.A.T.A. drive?
2) Should I partition it with the Apple Partition Map scheme?
3) Or should I get an external caddy and use two separate drive?
regards
Steve

Hi Steve,
When I acquired an external hard drive I had a few complications. For example, I got an external thinking it was a hard drive, but found that it was only an empty hard drive enclosure that did NOT even contain a hard drive at all. Then I got an enclosure that actually contained a hard drive inside, but there were compatibility issues and no customer support that I'd call supportive.
I ultimately ended up with a very affordable 300 gig AppleMac compatible Seagate. It has one USB and 2 Firewire ports. I don't recall if it came with those cables, or not. Although they provide an easy to read user manual, when I DID need support and assistance, I found their customer service to actually be very helpful. They had me up and running in no time.
My external is partitioned. Although I could have partitioned it almost any way I wanted, I partitioned mine into 2. One side is for storing space-hoarding media and storage-greedy software programs, while the other side of the partition is a bootable snapshot of my hard drive that contains everything that was on the hard drive at the time that I installed the external. I think that it is the SATA type, but I'm not certain. I hope this helps you out a little bit.
Oops! I almost forgot. If you are going to back up the two differently formatted computers i.e., G3 versus Intel, then you WILL need 2 separate hard drives. If you do NOT plan to snapshot your hard drives for the purpose of booting, then you may be able to use the one install disc, that comes with the external, on both computers for backing up your files, and applications as long as the backed up data is compatible to (and stored on) both units.
Be aware that this will NOT work if you plan to use the external for the purpose of booting either one of the aforementioned computers, because they are totally different platforms. I could pull it off on my 2 Pismos, because they are the same platform, but I cannot accomplish it on an iBook and on a Pismo if either one of them has been snapshot for booting. Just in case the expense is not necessary, I would buy one drive and see if it can used for both platforms, before investing in a second external.
Good luck,
A Little Fish in the Big Mac pond

Similar Messages

Choosing the right hard drive upgrade

I will be looking to upgrade the hard drive on my Macbook and while I know the general specifications (2.5" SATA) I'm not sure if certain brands are more trusted or if I need to steer clear of some, etc. I have a quite limited budget but I'm only looking for an 80GB hard drive. I found a couple of options and I was wondering if anyone could recommend one of them or if one looks better than another. I don't even know what to look for in terms of quality, etc. Any help would be much appreciated!
1) http://www.macmall.com/macmall/shop/detail~dpno~757190.asp
2)
http://www.macmall.com/macmall/shop/detail.asp?dpno=519616
Thanks.

If you want to replace the hard drive, I would suggest that you upgrade capacity as well as speed. Going from the stock 60GB drive to an 80GB unit is a small increase for the price you would pay, even if it is a 7200RPM drive.
It is obviously entirely up to you, but I suggest a larger drive and a faster one if you want to upgrade.
That said, I am a fan of Seagate and Western Digital drives. The only thing that concerns me about Seagate is that some users have reported problems with their drives in iMacs due to a firmware incompatability. They would work, but take a long time to come out of sleep and be sluggish until they did.
I suggest that you buy from someone like OWC that will make sure the drive will work for you. I am not saying Macmall won't but I have personal experience with OWC and they are great guys with pre- and post-sales support that will amaze you.
Either of those drive will likely work fine. You can check the drive database over at xlr8yourmac.com and see what other users might have experienced.

The right external drive for my configuration

I am looking to get an external hard drive for backup purposes and also to extend the storage space of a sorely limited Powerbook G3. It has a 6GB hard drive. In other words, you can't use it for anything except the internet and a few documents!
I've done some research but am no closer to figuring out what drive would be best for me. The thing is, I need the convenience of a portable because I'll be using it for backup with all 3 of the computers in different places in the house (an iBook G4, a Powerbook G3, and an iMac G3). But because I'll be using it for 3 computers and want to store bootable clones of at least my iBook's 60GB drive and the iMac's 20GB drive, I need more storage space than I've seen in portables. I also need to be able to run applications off it for the Powerbook.
I don't think I can afford to get more than one drive, especially since portables seem pretty pricey. I'd really rather not spend more than $150 and definitely not more than $200.
Anyone have any suggestions for the best solution?

Hi amybl,
You can get a portable 120-160GB firewire/USB drive for less than you think. OWC's drives are rated highly too.
http://eshop.macsales.com/shop/firewire/on-the-go
John
If your PB is the Firewire model the Firewire 400 (w/o USB) is even cheaper.

I need help choosing the 'right' backup drive(s)

I have a MacBook Pro on which I do mainly video editing. I make DVDs of my family and real estate stuff which I then want to offload from the laptop to my external hard drive. For the purpose of backing up this laptop, I will probably run the backup on an adhoc basis (after I complete a video editing process). By the way I use iMovie 09.
Now, I also have a MacG5 which contains work data (mainly pdfs of contracts for real estate, etc). On this machine, I wish to do a somewhat regular backup. Please excuse information I am leaving out - - this is where you folks can help me.
My question(s) are:
- Should I buy two separate backup devices to be more efficient?
- Are there any brands or specifications I should consider over others (Firewire vs USB)?
I am a novice in this domain and any suggestions or clarification are greatly appreciated!
Thanks!

fredfromhuntington beach wrote:
Thanks again for the reply (from some time ago!). I hope to get a reply from you based on my following simplification of how I intend to use my backup. No...I haven't moved forward on my decision of what/how to conduct my backups!
1) I prefer to use a single backup device for each computer
2) I would like to be able to create DVDs of movies, and (if time becomes an issue) do a backup of the DVD
How would you modify your suggestion(s) to me based on these changes?
Thanks!
OK, were I starting from scratch, I would go with the docking station from the OWC link. (I think the price has actually come down $20 since my original post! Man, I love pricing on electronics stuff!) You can easily move it from one computer to another and bare drives are cheaper to purchase and easier to store. If you want a full-time device for each computer, I would probably still recommend the docking station, especially with the price falling like it is.
IMHO, the best storage solution for bare drives is this box from Wiebe Tech, which is sturdy ESD plastic and nearly as compact as the 3.5 inch drive. My backups rotate through a safe deposit box that can hold a bunch of them, though I usually have only two offsite at any one time.
For DVD backups, I have in the past imaged DVDs using Disk Utility, which works out nicely, especially when I need to burn more copies. And you can just mount the image of a video DVD and DVD player comes up and you can watch from the hard drive.

Picking the right external drives

i have been looking at the G-tech series, the G-DRIVE mini or G-RAID mini
but have heard that the Hitachi drives are too great? But hey, if they're good enough for Chase Jarvis surely they're good enough for me?
Also been looking at the Western Digital My Book series.
Ideally i would like a 2tb firewire drive for external storage with a possible RAID, a 1TB (or required amount) for a scratch disk and another 1tb drive for time machine.

rkaufmann87 wrote:
The drives themselves are fine it's the enclosures that cause problems. What we frequently see on these forums is people that have a WD EHD and they'll lose they're connection. Many will plug them into a PC and they can then be used so they then think it's a problem with their Mac. However when any other make is plugged in they work fine so it points the finger at the WD enclosures. People buy them because they're cheap however almost always when we get someone that is complaining.
I don't use WD enclosures, just WD drives. Perhaps that is why I haven't had the problem.
I'm glad to hear you have had good luck with them, have all the machines you have plugged them into been Macs?
They were all PC's until I switched to my iMac in 2009 and it has been either my iMac or MBP since then.
I'm sure you will be please with your new OWC drive and enclosure, OWC specializes in Macs so you know if you buy something from them it almost always works fine.
I also purchased 16GB of Samsung DRAM from them. It will go into my 27" refurbished i7 when it gets here on Monday.

How to choose the right Mac Pro Specs?

Hello all,
Below is a question I posted in May along with someone's response. I'm wondering if I should still go with the response I received considering the new release of the mac pro 12 core. Did anything change that I need to note in my purchase or is the below response suitable? THANKS!!!!!
my question:
I need some help in choosing the right specs for my mac pro. I am looking for a computer that will help me in running my small business and keep my art portfolio organized. I'll probably be running several programs at a time (ex. mozilla, itunes, adobe bridge, dreamweaver, illustrator, and photoshop). More specifics below
What i'll be using it for:
building a few websites
managing my small business
large photo file editing
keeping business files, artist receipts, etc
cataloging my art portfolio (large photo files)
storing photos, music, and short videos
graphic design
infrequent film editing
infrequent sound editing
what programs i'll be using:
CS5 (mostly photoshop, illustrator, bridge, dreamweaver)
iphoto
itunes
maybe minimal finalcut/soundtrack pro
maybe minimal aftereffects
Advice?
My concerns are that it needs to run pretty smoothly with multiple programs open, no overheating, plenty of space for file storage and application support.
Hello washleyill,
My advice would be to buy the standard configuration 2.66GHz Quad Core (i.e. 3 x 1GB RAM, 640GB hard drive) from the Apple store, with the exception of the graphics card which you can buy as a CTO option for $200.00. It is well worth the upgrade from the GT120 - I know, because I upgraded myself last November after using a GT120 for 4 months.
With regard to the memory, if you can afford it now, buy 4 x 4GB from OWC now. If not, I would suggest that you buy 2 x 4GB now, and then add another 2 x 4GB in the future. 16GB of RAM is a much better option than 8GB for your requirements. You can sell the 3 x 1GB RAM to OWC in "part exchange", and there would be little difference in price for 2 x 4GB to the CTO option of 4 x 2GB.
http://eshop.macsales.com/shop/memory/Mac-Pro-Memory#1066-memory
Instead of buying 2 x 1TB hard drives as a CTO option, you could purchase 2 x 1.5TB or 2 x 2TB HDDs for less money, and you would still have the 640GB. Spare drives are always useful. I use my original 640GB as a spare emergency system boot drive (OS and applications) in an external enclosure.
Another alternative is to wait a few more weeks, in case the rumours of the introduction of a new Mac Pro range in June have any foundation.
Regards,
Bill

Hello again washleyill,
The defining factor, which you haven't mentioned in either this or your original question, is what your overall budget is.
With the introduction of the new models, it's a new ball game now since I replied to your original question.
Now, if it is within your budget, I would recommend the 2010 Mac Pro 3.33GHz 6-Core "Westmere", with the standard 1TB hard drive, the basic 3 x 1GB RAM, but with the CTO Radeon HD5870 1GB Graphics Card.
This is the same configuration that Lloyd Chambers (of Mac Performance Guide fame) has recently ordered:
http://macperformanceguide.com/index.html
Then buy as much memory as you can afford now from OWC (trade-in the 3 x 1GB of Apple RAM against this):
http://eshop.macsales.com/shop/memory/Mac-Pro-Memory#1066-memory
(The 1333MHz is now listed on this page as well as the 1066MHZ)
If your budget is large enough, then certainly it is worth considering the 2.93Ghz 12-Core, but the 3.33GHz 6-Core, with maxed out memory and fast hard drives, should be more than adequate for your requirements. The more memory the better for Photoshop CS5!
I have just ordered Photoshop CS5 myself. It is a big step-up from Elements 8, and I was going to wait until next year, by which time, hopefully, any initial problems and bugs should have been resolved.
However, Adobe UK made me an offer I couldn't refuse! The full boxed Photoshop CS5 edition for half price!
Also, the offer included an option to buy Lightroom3 at the same time with a 30% discount off its normal price, and so I have taken the plunge and ordered that as well, because I have never been completely happy with Aperture (II or III). Normally, I would not have purchased both Photoshop CS5 and Lightroom 3, but at these prices the offer was too tempting.
Best of luck with your purchase,
Regards,
Bill

I just purchased an external disk drive to store my pictures. I want to keep the last 12 months of pictures on my iMac and move the rest to the new external drive. As new pictures are added I want them to be put on the iMac internal drive. How?

I just purchased an external disk drive to store my growing number of pictures. I want to keep the last 12 months of pictures on my iMac and move the remaining pictures to the new external drive. As I take more pictures I want them to be put on the iMac internal drive. Every 3 to 6 months I would then move some additional pictures to the external drive. I am nuervous about losing any of the pictures and want to make sure I follow the proper procedure. What is the right way to handle this?
Thanks.

Here's one way to do what you want:
Make sure the drive is formatted Mac OS Extended (Journaled)
1. Quit iPhoto
2. Copy the iPhoto Library from your Pictures Folder to the External Disk.
Now you have two full versions of the Library.
3. On the Internal library, trash the Events you don't want there
Now you have a full copy of the Library on the External and a smaller subset on the Internal
Some Notes:
As a general rule: when deleting photos do them in batches of about 100 at a time. iPhoto can baulk at trashing large numbers at one go.
You can choose which Library to open: Hold down the option (or alt) key key and launch iPhoto. From the resulting menu select 'Choose Library'
You can keep the Library on the external updated with new imports using iPhoto Library Manager

Choosing the Right Power Supply

First things first. If you've got a poor-quality and/or faulty power supply, nothing else you do will work to solve your problems. Stick to the basics before you go further...The short answer is to buy a hi-powered, brand name supply, like the new ENERMAX line (430 W or higher) or ANTEC True550. Almost nothing else will do with today's computers. In over 30 years of electronic/computer service, I have found that 85% or more of problems were power-related.
If you want to know more, read on...
Choosing The Right Power Supply
If you’re reading this, there’s a good chance that one of my colleagues or I believe that you could be experiencing problems with your power supply, based upon the symptoms you mentioned in your post, and provided you with this link. Relax, you’re not alone. In 30 years of electronic and computer troubleshooting, I’d say that the majority of the electronic, mainframe, mini, and microcomputer problems I’ve diagnosed and repaired were with the basic power the problematic device was receiving. The symptoms often included random reboots, crashing, the BSOD, lockups, etc.
(As the national support technician for few major computer service companies, working US Defense contracts, I was often the person that had to fly in and correct the problem, or “walk through” the on-site technician as he closely followed my instructions. I achieved success in my career by carefully reading the manuals, knowing where to go for more information that was otherwise unavailable to me, and/or systematically troubleshooting until the problems were discovered and repaired. I never had the option of giving up.)
The most overlooked component when building or upgrading a PC is the power supply unit (PSU). Some people use their old case and PSU when they upgrade. Some use the PSU that came with their new case. Some people even buy a new PSU. And most inexperienced builders all make the same mistake: The PSU that they’re trying to use is simply inadequate for the job.
Suppose you’re upgrading to a new motherboard, CPU, ram, and video card, but still using the old case and PSU. It’s most likely that you’re upgrading in order to build a machine that is more powerful, faster, has a more colorful display, can number-crunch more quickly, play the latest games, etc. These gains in performance all have one thing in common: They require more raw power. However, have you thought about where that power comes from?
Suppose you’re building a new system with a new case and PSU. Has it occurred to you that the company that you bought the case/PSU from might make more money if they skimp on the supply, even if the supply has a large wattage rating? Most bulk power supply manufacturers don’t make good PSU’s. They use older, cheaper technology, and slap on labels that represent the PSU’s peak outputs, and not their continuous output rating. These companies are intentionally misleading you in order to sell you an inferior product. Brands I avoid when building/repairing my friends’ and family’s computers: Allied, Q-Tec, Chieftech, and many others.
For those of you who bought a power supply separately, did you know that you’re only supposed to run a power supply continuously at 30-70% (with 50% being optimal) of its continuous rating for maximum efficiency (which means less heat to you)? Most inexperienced builders either buy PSU’s that are matched to their equipment’s continuous power usage, or ones that are even less powerful than they need. Why? Because they’re trying to save money.
I mean, what’s the fun in a power supply? You don’t get any games with it, there’s no more storage, hardly ever any more bells and whistles, etc. A power supply is boring, and it’s supposed to be, because it’s supposed to provide a stable, reliable platform upon which the rest of the equipment can easily access the amount of power it needs, and when it’s needed. In almost EVERY review of powers supplies, the same point is stressed: Better safe than sorry.
But what does safe vs sorry mean? It can mean that you don’t have to waste money on the wrong PSU in the first place, but it can also mean that you don’t have to replace your expensive ram, CPU, video card, etc. NEEDLESSLY, or because your cheap PSU destroyed them. What? A cheap power supply can wreck your computer? YES IT CAN. A cheap power supply can cause thermal damage, not only from the heat it produces, but also the heat it can create in your components as well. RAM is especially sensitive to heat, and there’s RAM in your CPU, your video cards, and, well, your RAM too. A cheap switching power supply, run at its maximum, or peak, continuously can also destroy components by creating RF (Radio Frequency) signals on your power rails, signals which the components on your peripheral devices were not equipped to handle in the first place.
So this begs the question, how does one choose the right power supply? I’ll illustrate this using my own PC as the example. This is my setup that I use for video processing:
K7N2G-ILSR
Athlon 2500+ Barton @ 2125Mhz
AMD Retail Heatsink/Fan
2 - 512MB DDR333 w/Thermaltake Spreaders (slot 1&3)
MSI TV@nywhere Video Capture
ATI Radeon 9600
120GB Maxtor DiamondMax Plus 9 SATA
30GB Quantum IDE
TEAC DV-W50E DVD/CD-R/W
BTC DVD-ROM Drive
Artec CD-R/W
Using this Power Supply Calculator link:
http://www.jscustompcs.com/power_supply/
I plug in all my equipment values, but some of this can be a little tricky. For example, since I often run the CPU like an XP 3000, I choose the 3000 as my processor; it’s the same chip run at the faster rate. I also choose the ATI Radeon video card, and I select the RAM wattage for 2 sticks of DDR. I also choose every card I have, like my video capture card, but I also select the boxes for the separate cards that correspond to the functions that my ILSR provides as well (and that I use), like sound, USB, Firewire, NIC, etc. Although I use the onboard SATA controller, I don’t select the SCSI PCI card, because, in truth, I’ve probably made up for it by selecting all the other corresponding devices, including cards that the motherboard replaces. I check the boxes for the fans and drives I use, and I’m done, right?
Not yet.
I just remembered that I plan to upgrade soon, so I go back and change the values to reflect my impending changes. I mean, I want to make sure that I have enough power to begin with so that I don’t have to replace the power supply again, right?
Ok. Done. I look at the bottom and see that it tells me that I need a 468 watt PSU. So a 480 watt supply will do, right? Wrong.
Remember that, for efficiency, long-life, and less heat, you want your actual power consumption to fall between 30-70% of the PSU’s rating, so add 30% (minimum) to the 468, and you get 468 + (468*.30)= 608 Watts! Holy Cow!
However, I’d only need a 608-Watt supply if I was using all the devices at once, and I don’t. But, in truth, with video and audio processing, I often get close when I process, burn, and monitor at the same time. (Hardcore gamers also get close a lot, as they blast the sound and push that video to its limits.) So, let’s take off 10% (maximum) of 608, for a total of 541 Watts.
I need a 550 Watt supply, but not just ANY 550 watt PSU. I need a supply that can give me enough power on the critical 3.3, 5, and 12V rails combined. I also want a supply from a trusted, name-brand manufacturer, so I start hitting the many online reviews. Here are just two from Tom’s Hardware:
http://www6.tomshardware.com/howto/20030609/index.html
http://www6.tomshardware.com/howto/20021021/index.html
Read these in their entirety. I didn’t post them because they’re pretty links.
In the end, I chose Antec, because they’ve got the reputation, the recommendation, and because the Antec True550 has better specs than the rest of the 550 Watt competition. I also bought it from a reputable company I found on Pricegrabber.com, for the lowest price I could find, $95.00 shipped to my door. (In truth, I wanted two mini-redundant supplies, like the hospitals and military use, but they were too expensive.)
The result? Not only are the random reboots, crashing, the BSOD, lockups, etc., gone like magic, but I also now have “peace of mind” in that whatever might happen to my equipment in the future, I know almost for certain that the PSU is NOT the problem. I also bought an UPS, because the East Coast Blackout proved to me that even the Antec True550 isn’t going to provide me any power for emergency shutdown if it doesn’t get its power from somewhere.
Even if your problem doesn’t lie in the PSU completely, it gives you a GREAT platform for troubleshooting further. If you’re not reasonably certain that the supply is the cause, borrow one, or buy one that you can return once you’ve solved the problem. But, above all else, BUY THE RIGHT SUPPLY before you do anything else! Otherwise, you could be plugging and unplugging components, buying and blowing up expensive memory, and causing even further damage, until you give up or die.
I mean, I assume you built your own system to enjoy “more bang for your buck,” right? What’s the fun of a random reboot in the middle of Unreal Tournament 2003?
William Hopkins
Former Staff Sergeant, USAF
B.A., B.S., with Honors
The University of California, San Diego
[email protected]
P.S. It should be noted that while Enermax, ThermalTake, Zalman, Fortron, and others make great PSU’s, and I compared and considered them, the Antec still won out overall in my critical evaluation, like it did in so may others’ reviews. You’d probably be ok if you went with another reputable manufacturer as listed above, but pick a supply that gives you at least 230 watts on the 3.3 and 5V lines combined, and still meets the 30% criteria as stated above. Remember, if the manufacturers don’t give you maximum combined specs up front, they’re untrustworthy right off the bat. With power supplies, you definitely end up getting what you pay for. Don’t say nobody warned you.
P.P.S. Update! After recent developments, it looks like Enermax is the leader, but only the latest line of PSU's.

Ok, as an electrical engineer...I have to step in here! LOL
First, these amp rating are for 2 +12 rails. That is why you see a protection of around 15-18A on the +12 rail. That means each Rail is allowed up to 18A lets say for the new Enermax 1.2 version like the one I have.
Now, Lets say 18A for 12V....well as you know the Abit NF7-S uses the 12V for powering the CPU.
Lets say you have a Barton like me and you want it stable at around 2.4-2.5Ghz. You will have to put lets say around 2V to the cpu to get it stable at that kinda speed, specially if you have high FSB like I do. So 12V * 18Amps = 216W ....well the converter on the NFS-7 is really bad, its loss on the step down convertion is probably around 25% along with the PSU lost cuz its not running at 25oC (another 15%)....you will actually only get around 100-120W for the CPU.
Now, if you go into Sandra and see how much a Barton eats up at 2.4Ghz you will see its around 110Watts.
So, if you wanna push more, dont even think about it! Prime Power test fails and your +12 rail will drop as low as 11.60 Volts.
Now, lets say you got yourself a AMD 64 bit chip and you wanna overclock it....I bet it will need more than 110Watts.
So, what im saying is, dont buy nothing less than a 500 Watt PSU!
You really need around 20-22 A on the main +12 along with really really good cooling on the case and PSU so it is running at a 100%.
http://forums.amdmb.com/showindex.php?s=&threadid=287828
i found this quite interesting especially the bit re the power loss turning the 12v into 1.6v or what ever cpu needs

I'm using Time Machine and a LaCie external drive to backup. I also have a 8 GB LaCie flash drive I want to use for small jobs. If I plug the LaCie flash drive in, is my Mac going to think it is the LaCie external drive and start trying to backup?

I'm using Time Machine and a LaCie external drive to backup. I also have a 8 GB LaCie flash drive I want to use for small jobs. If I plug the LaCie flash drive in, is my Mac going to think it is the LaCie external drive and start trying to backup?

no.

I have an issue with time machine, it doesn't find the Lacie external driver it use to use. it is the same drive that I usaly use for time machine back ups. It is corectly plugged. What can I do ?

Hi,
I'm trying to back up my macbook with time machine on the Lacie external driver I usualy use for this, but today my computer doesn't find the driver. I haven't done back up in 6 month.
Today, the Lacie driver is pluged and running, but the computer just does'nt find it.
what shall I do ?

Some things to consider:
Is the drive mounted, i.e., visible via Finder and/or on the Desktop?
Is the drive still selected in System Preferences, Time Machine? If not, use the "Select Disk" button.
Is Time Machine still turned on (System Preferences, Time Machine)?
Can you see the drive (and mount it) using Disk Utility (in your Utilities folder)?
charlie

2 of the same external drives showing up in Lr

Yesterday, I mistakenly imported some trash files (html) into Lr. This caused Lr to crash whenever the image came up in the viewer on my screen. Weird, but luckily I was able to get the files out of Lr, and everything seems all better.
However, during the crash, I pulled out the external drive everything is stored without unmounting it. I know know that mac and programs really don't like that.
Now post crash, in my left nav, Lr is showing the same external drive twice. And now when I import, it goes to the second one.
What did I do and is it fixable?
Thank you very much. Image attached,
35,000 images so far, and Lr is very quick. Backing up my backups...
Lr 2.1
imac 3.06 Core 2 Duo 4 GB SDRAM
35,000 images so far in 1 catalog
Canon Gear

You described what you did!
You do have but one drive, and LR is seeing double, so to speak?
I suspect, though, that it's using different folders inside the "doubled version". Use LR to consolidate all images inside of one, then delete the 'other', after double checking there are no images inside of 'it'. This all after a complete backup.

FAQ: How do I choose the right sequence settings?

In general, the settings of a sequence should match those of the primary footage type in the sequence. Though Premiere Pro can mix footage of various types in a sequence and compensate for differences in characteristics, performance and quality are maximized when such conversions are avoided.
See this video for more information:
How do I choose the right sequence settings?
Also see these sections in Premiere Pro Help:
Create a sequence
Sequence presets and settings

Sorry to say this - but you've got the wrong advice from Adobe.
You were right in selecting the profile for Epson premium glossy paper - if that's what you are printing on.
The magenta cast is most probably due to double color management, i.e. color management for your printer was not switched off. You did all the right moves , but still the color management for the printer was not switched off. This seems to be an Epson - Lightroom problem. You are about the fourth poster who has this problem with Lightroom and Epson printers. All of them said that they were sure that they had color management by the Epson printer switched off. There seems to be a hidden setting that prevails or is called by Lr.
The magenta cast is typical for double color management.
Read this - maybe it helps: http://people.csail.mit.edu/ericchan/dp/Epson3800/printworkflow.html#display_calibration
Don't miss the section on "How to print images from Lightroom".
I don't have an Epson printer so can't give you further insight on this. Except ...
Disable - temporarily - all custom print profiles and templates that you may have created. Move them to a different folder where Lr does not find them. I cannot guarantee that this helps but if the problem persists it might be worth a try.
One of the above mentioned posters said that the problem disappeared after disabling an old print preset that he had created for a prior version of Lr.

Choose the right configuration

Hi,
I want to ask you for some informations: Is it possible to use java to manage my QoS? I explain: if i have cisco access point , and i configured the QoS filtering and QoS (with cisco document ) VIA THE WEB INTERACE, is it possible to choose the right configuration ( predefined by filtering QoS)by a programm in java? i don t want to rock to the configuration manually, i want a deamon in java to do it.
Is it possible?
Thak you in adavance for your help

Hi.
IPMP can coexist with VNIC.
IPMP - part of Solaris. So you not need check version of IPMP. Just read Docs for Solaris.
http://docs.oracle.com/cd/E23823_01/html/816-4554/ipmptm-1.html#scrolltoc
It's not clear what Vnic you plan use. Is it VLAN or just additional IP on interface ?
For test address of IPMP you should configure interface like bge0:1 with additional options.
Regards.

Help me choose the right workstation

Hello,
After 5 years of using Dell products for my company, I am currently investigating to switch to Lenovo computers.
Can you help me to choose the right workstation please ?
Usage: webdesign and webdevelopment
Expectations:
8go RAM
1ssd 120go for os (can be purchased apart)
2 sata 500 go 7200 raid 1 for data
2 displays connected through dvi (no 3d acceleration needed but good 2d on two displays minimum with large resolution). Possibility to add a third monitor ?
product available in france
price around 1000/1500 euros
I thought E30 was a good choice but :
can I add a ssd disk in the second 5"1/4 media bay ?
can I boot on this disk ?
can I Still use Raid 1 sata disks ?
can I choose a video card with 3connections for monitors ?
Many thanks for your answers.
Best regards.
Lenovo X220 4287-CTO / Intel Core i7 2640M @ 2.8 / Corsair Vengeance 16 Go@1866 MHz CL10 / Samsung SSD 840 PRO 512 Go / Bios 1.38 / Linux Xubuntu 14.04LTS / eGPU ATI Radeon 5870 Eyefinity 6 / 2x DELL U2142M / 2x DELL U2212HM
Solved!
Go to Solution.

Many thanks for your answers,
About storage, can E and S series handle RAID 1 of SAS disks ?
I have two Cheetah SAS 300go 15K RPM, and I would like to use them in this workstation.
And, are you sure that S series are available for customization in France, the website displays nothing on the S20 page: http://shop.lenovo.com/SEUILibrary/controller/e/frweb/LenovoPortal/fr_FR/catalog.workflow:category.d...
Best regards,
Lenovo X220 4287-CTO / Intel Core i7 2640M @ 2.8 / Corsair Vengeance 16 Go@1866 MHz CL10 / Samsung SSD 840 PRO 512 Go / Bios 1.38 / Linux Xubuntu 14.04LTS / eGPU ATI Radeon 5870 Eyefinity 6 / 2x DELL U2142M / 2x DELL U2212HM

Need some advice on choosing the right iPad

My wife has been dropping some subtle hints that she'd like an iPad for Christmas. I'm playing dumb for the time being so she'll be surprised when the time comes but I'm forced to admit that I'm a bit ignorant when it comes to choosing the right model for her. She wants one specificaly for pictures,but will probably also use it for downloading audio books, e-mail and web. While I'd like nothing more than to be able to afford the latest and greatest, cost IS a consideration so I'm looking at used & refurbished 2's in the $300-$350 range; maybe a 3 if I can make it fit the budget.
Of the older generations out there, which one has the better camera and would I better off with a 64 gig rather than a 32?

What are all the differences between the iPad 3rd Gen and the iPad 2? Is the iPad 2 worth the cost savings?
http://everymac.com/systems/apple/ipad/ipad-faq/differences-between-ipad-3rd-gen -2012-ipad-2-2011.html
What are all the differences between the iPad 3rd Gen models? Which should I buy?
http://everymac.com/systems/apple/ipad/ipad-faq/differences-between-ipad-3rd-gen -early-2012-models.html
Should I Buy a New iPad? Or an iPad 2?
http://www.maclife.com/article/blogs/should_i_buy_new_ipad_or_ipad_2
iPad 3 vs iPad 2 vs iPad 1- Feature comparisons with iOS 5
http://ipadhelp.com/ipad-help/ipad-3-vs-ipad-2/
iPad Q&A
http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/ipad/ipad-faq/differences-between-ipad-3rd -gen-early-2012-models.html
A Few Questions (and Answers) About the New iPad
http://pogue.blogs.nytimes.com/2012/03/15/a-few-questions-and-answers-about-the- new-ipad/?ref=personaltechemail&nl=technology&emc=edit_ct_20120315
New iPad: A Polishing of the Old
http://www.nytimes.com/2012/03/15/technology/personaltech/the-new-ipad-is-much-t he-same-only-better.html?nl=technology&emc=edit_ct_20120315
iPad 1, 2 and New Specifications
http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/ipad/index-ipad-specs.html
16GB vs 32GB vs 64GB: Which new iPad storage capacity should you get?
http://www.imore.com/2012/03/08/16gb-32gb-64gb-ipad-capacity/
How much content will fit on my iPod or iPhone?
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1867
If you think you may get an iPad 2:
Refurbished iPad Prices
http://store.apple.com/us/browse/home/specialdeals/ipad
New 16GB iPad 2 Prices
http://store.apple.com/us/browse/home/shop_ipad/family/ipad/select_ipad2
When iOS 6 comes out in the fall, the iPad 3 will get Siri, but the iPad 2 won't.
 Cheers, Tom

Choosing the right external drive

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