Chroma key - color smoothing filter renders vertical lines

several vertical lines appear in render (or QT output), but if I turn the color smoothing filter off they disappear (at the cost of messy chromakey).
These lines do NOT appear when the playback is stopped on (unrendered) timeline or when using play every frame (option + P).
I am using a 720p60 Prores 422 sequence. Interestingly if I output to mpeg2 via Compressor the lines do not appear (but poor HD to SD downscale - hence why I seek QT prores output)
For the moment I turn it off and mess with the chroma keyer controls to clean it up.

Using 4:2:2 smoothing, upstream (above) the keyer, meant to say 720p50 PAL sequence and clips captured via Io Express direct to Prores.

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4:2:0 Color Smoothing Filter for HDV? keying HDV

having fun here trying to key a green screen music video shot in HDV..
thought it would be nice to try FCP's plugins on it... including some sort of "pre-blur" but unfortunately i don't see a color smoothing for 4:2:0 color space in which HDV shoots..
any suggestions on what the best way to key this stuff is

Try the G Chroma Sharpen filters in Film Effects (www.nattress.com), which were designed for this. They do 4:2:0 smoothing, and then sharpen the chroma based upon luma detail to get the best edge possible.
Graeme

[LaserJet Pro 200 color MFP M276nw] only vertical lines when scanning, scanner broken?

Hi all! I have a problem with the scanner in my HP all in one. If I scan (using the printer function or apples ImageCapture: same result) the output is just a lot of vertical stripes (in colors when in color mode). Not a trace of the image I try to scan. The lines are there even if i scan an empty white page. I see the stripes both when doing a preview scan and an actual scan. The problems are very similar regardless of if I use the flatbed or the feeder scanner (they are separate scanner hardware, yes?). I have updated to the latest software for the printer/scanner and I am connecting over bonjour via wireless. I am on Os X 10.9.1. Anybody having similar problems or is my scanner just plain broken? Thanks in advance!Jon

, , I understand that both of you are seeing vertical lines when scanning from your Laserjet M276nw. First, make sure the printer is plugged directly into a wall outlet and not a surge protector. Now, so I know where to begin I'd need to know the following:If you are seeing the vertical lines when you copy as well as scan?Are you seeing the vertical lines when you copy from the flatbed? The document feeder? both?If you are seeing the lines from both the flatbed and the feeder are they in the same place?Once I know this I'll be better able to assist you.

Pixel around edge on Chroma key

I have trouble to remove green edge around me. I add spill suprresor green. but it show gray on edge. i have to use soften edge that cause gray on edge.
I don't understand why bad pixels around edge. That cause me struggle to remove gray edge.
Why pixels?
I use DV on HDV camera but DV setting.
I use chroma keyer, color smoothing-4.1.1, spill supressor-green, FCP 7
I thought I have plenty light but apparently not. 5 lights. 2 dome on green, 2 key lights on me, one back light.
Thanks

yep your far too close
you must have a good separation between the subject and the background
as a rough guide in setting up; the subjects shadow coming from the main light should not be able to fall on the background, if it is, move the subject further away.
The chroma keyer in FCP is very basic and needs a very good lighting set up to make it function
good level of illumination, even flat lighting on the back ground, good 3 point lighting on the subject to separate from the background.

Advanced chroma key

So I understand how to use chroma key to remove a background. For example I have a shot of birds flying and then I have taken out the birds and now it shows whatever clips underneath the birds. I want to take this one step further. Now once the birds are replaced I also want to replace the sky, or the background that hasn't been removed with the chroma filter. So essentially Im only using the shape of the birds, but two completely different source clips to get the effect. Does this make sense and how would I go about doing it.
Thanks,
Zac

This is a Photoshop user forum the is also a Photoshop Elements forum. IMO If you want to replace a background on a still image the chroma key color you should use is White or Gray. When the subject is complex like hair blowing in the wind you will always need to deal with chroma key spill. White can be eliminated with blending and gray will blend and have little effect in the color. White and gray backgrounds will not cause a color cast in you exposure..
You may get a better reply in the elements forum. User there are familiar with what tools Elements has. Photoshop may have some selection tools not available in elements.

Chroma key use: Photoshop (version) or can Elements 13 be utilized?

Chroma key use: Photoshop (version) or can Elements 13 be utilized? I do not want to purchase plugs-in etc.

This is a Photoshop user forum the is also a Photoshop Elements forum. IMO If you want to replace a background on a still image the chroma key color you should use is White or Gray. When the subject is complex like hair blowing in the wind you will always need to deal with chroma key spill. White can be eliminated with blending and gray will blend and have little effect in the color. White and gray backgrounds will not cause a color cast in you exposure..
You may get a better reply in the elements forum. User there are familiar with what tools Elements has. Photoshop may have some selection tools not available in elements.

My colored pencil filter isn't working correctly....

Yesterday, I was humming along creating a drawing and using the colored pencil filter.
Today, it isn't work.
Today when I apply the colored pencil filter to a line or object, it changes the object to grey and doesn't add any cross hatching.
I am using PS Elements 8, and of course this is a deadline day.
Any thoughts out there? I am really stuck.....

This is the Photoshop full version forum, but I'll hazard a couple of wild, uneducated guesses (I don't use Elements)... Is your image in Grayscale mode and not RGB? Also, what do you have your foreground and background colors set to?
You might find more direct help over in the Photoshop Elements forum:
Photoshop Elements
Best of luck.
-Noel

DVCAM to ProRess - Clip Analyze - Color Smoothing

Hello,
A few questions that I'll try to make brief. I'd really appreciate someone experienced giving their outlook.
1 - I've got an old DVCAM project captured and backed up to a hard drive. I'm just pulling the project out again to get it as nice as possible for a master copy and DVD; finish it off as best as possible.
Should I use media manager to recompress to ProRess(HQ) for PAL if I'm going to be doing extensive color grading?
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Should I be re-creating my project from the original captured files, as the one's my timeline is referencing (after using Media Manager to consolodate the project) say Medium Quality?
I assume, if so, I should do this before the ProRess conversion process, right?
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Matthew Morreale
Yoga Maya Films - www.yogamayafilms.com
The Film Producer's Podcast - www.yogamayafilms.com/podcast

I'll give it one more shot (bring the post to the top of the list) to see if anyone could help with answers to these things.
Anyone?

Vertical lines showing up after rendering chroma key on Canon 60D footage...

Ok so I am working with Final Cut Pro 7 right now and this is my first green screen attempt.
1) I shot the footage with my Canon 60D and did a log and transfer so I could make the H.264 files into Apple Pro Res 422, the correct method.
2) I then applied Color Smoother 4:2:2 , then Blue and Green Screen and selected green, then Spill Supressor, then Matte Choker, then Mask Feather. After tweaking the parameters throughout the filters I came out with a perfect image.
3) I then tried placing another ProRes video underneathe of the clip so that the video would show in place of the green. It worked and looked great.
HOWEVER
4) Upon rendering and playing back through the final image I noticed vertical lines running down the 60D footage. At first I thought it was the image underneath coming through, but even after removing the image and simply using chroma key until the green turned to black and rendering again, the lines were still present. Am I doing something wrong?
Please help, I have a deadline
-Eric Widder

The HQ flavor of ProRes is overkill for this footage (I also have this model Canon), but that's not really important to fixing your problem.
Further to what Rv told you: I've long been advised by people who are savvy about keyers to avoid the stock FCP keyer and use the Primatte plug-in – and that's been my go-to tool. Recently, I tried the new keyer in Motion5 and was very impressed. I tested it on a project I'd been only OK about and found it made a huge difference. If you're going to do a lot of this kind of work, check it out. For $50 the keyer alone is worth it.
Russ

AVCHD Sony footage has lines in chroma key in FCP

My footage shot on with Sony Nex-fs700 will not chroma key with placing blue vertical lines in the final key. The line appear only after I render. My sequence settings match my footage. Can anybody help.
Stinson

I shot in 1080 24p FX and I set the sequence to 24 fps and I was getting the vertical lines, flicker and lag in the image with any quick moments. So I created a new sequence and placed a test clip on the timeline and FCP asked if I wanted match my clip to the sequnce and I said no. I applied the color smoothing 4:2:2 and chroma key filters and played the clip and it was fine but still with the vertical lines. I then removed the color smothing 4:2:2 filter and no vertical lines. Still might send you a short clip just for kicks.
Yes I have After Effects and Motion and I will give them a try when I finish this project.

Problem when add Chroma Key filter to DVCPRO HD

I ingested some DVCPRO HD 720Pn footage into FCP. The footage was shot against a green screen. I started by creating a 4-point garbage matte around the person and then I added Color Smoothing and when I add the Chroma Key filter, the green screen comes back and a large grey area appears on screen. What is going on?

Ok, I just tried it again by creating the 4-pt matte and as soon as I drag the Chroma Key Filter to the clip, the points disappear, and the entire green screen comes back. Is this the way it is supposed to behave? Is there some type of apply button that I need to select after adjusting the last point of the garbage matte before doing anything else?
Thanks!
Message was edited by: rick.pearl

How I fixed the colored vertical lines on my Mac Powerbook G4 17"

Hello all,
I know that many people with a Powerbook G4 17" are suffering from the colored vertical line problem on their displays. This is were a pixel wide vertical line of color (yellow, green, purple, red, and/or blue) randomly appears on the laptop's display, usually between 24-36 months after purchase. This is also known on various internet forums as the "bridget riley effect" -- named after a painter whose art looks very similar to this effect. Many, if not all, of the laptops that suffer from this defect are 17" displays and have a serial number that starts with W8. Mine starts with W85; you can check yours by looking underneath the battery. It usually starts off as just one line, then two, then a few months pass and before you know it your screen looks like this:
This is my screen two years after the first line showed up, which was two and half years after getting it in December of 2005. Not so pretty. And completely useless without an external display, kind of killing the purpose of a Laptop. As a film editor I needed my screen to see the images and more importantly I needed it to be mobile. There's not always a screen to plug into.
I tried getting Apple to fix the problem, but apparently they're just ignoring the fact that almost all the laptops that came from this certain factory in Thailand (indicated by the serial number starting with W8) have failing displays. They delete threads and forums on their website, and try to censor and ignore the problem as much as they can. Unless some huge media blitz happens, or there is some kind of legitimate lawsuit, I highly doubt they ever will do anything about it, and you can't really blame them. They are a big business and addressing this problem with cost them potentially millions in repairs and tarnish their reputation as a quality manufacturer, and Apple's biggest commodity is its reputation. It ***** that Apple allowed this kind of thing to happen, but as things stand right now, it would be a poor business decision to fix it.
So, fellow vertical line sufferers, AKA the W8 club, my advice to you is stop holding out hope that they will pay for your screen to be fixed and get it done yourself! If you do it right you can get it done for between $60-$99. Here's how I did it.
First off, know that this is a hardware problem. There is no setting in system preferences you can change that will make the lines go away. There are failing physical parts in your computer to blame and they need to be replaced.
Second, in order to keep things as cheap as possible, you are going to replace the parts. It's actually pretty easy.
Thirdly, you are going to need a whole new display. I thought maybe if I replaced the display data cable (the cable that runs from the computer under the key board to the back of the screen) it might solve the problem very cheaply, since a brand new one only costs about $9 online. I took the computer apart, replaced the cable, but the display did not change at all. So the problem is the screen, not the cable. I needed a whole new screen, however, a brand spanking new one can cost between $350-$600. So I went on eBay, typed in my computer, and looked for computers that were being sold for "parts" or "repair." These are usually much cheaper because they are not working computers, but you don't need the computer to work, you just need the display to work. If you do this, make sure you read the descriptions. If there's any mention of display problems, move on and keep looking. You don't want to replace the display only to have the lines show up all over again a few months down the line. They wont always give you the serial number, but obviously try to stay away from serial numbers that start with W8. I found a used Powerbook being sold for parts for $63. It didn't have RAM, or a Hard-drive, or screws to keep the keyboard on, but the display apparently had no issues. With shipping and handling it cost me $94 total and three days to get it. The serial number started with V7. I'm sure with a little patience and vigilance, you can find something just as cheap or even cheaper.
NOTE: Some powerbooks have High-Res display screens, so make sure you know which screen yours has so you know which to look for.
Now, how to actually replace the display. I used an awesome website called ifixit.com. They give you detailed easy-to-follow instructions with photographs. I'll let them give you the nitty gritty of how to replace the display. Here is the actual How-to guide I used:
http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Installing-PowerBook-G4-Aluminum-17-Inch-1-1-67-GHz- Display/258/1
The only tools you really need are a small phillips head screwdriver and a T6 and T8 Torx screwdriver (they are starred on the end, as oppose to crossed like the end of a phillips head). They say you need a "spudger" but I didn't. You can get these at any hardware or auto-parts store. Return them when your done if you are really on a budget, but you might want to take more part from this new computer in the future, so your call. You'll need to print out the instructions first, or use another computer to follow them since you obviously can't use your Powerbook. Find a flat, well-lit work space, preferably near a TV so you don't get bored while working, and use the how-to guide to switch the old display with the new one. It only took me a couple of hours to finish the whole thing, and I didn't have to pay a repair man hundreds. My display works perfectly now! It's so nice to be have the mobility of a laptop again (especially since the computer i got off of eBay came with a battery that can actually hold a charge).
NOTE: There are a bunch of screws and a few small parts that will need to be taken out while replacing the display, and its important they all go back in their proper spots. So I highly recommend you take a long piece of tape, loop it, and stick it flat onto the side of your work space. As you take out each screw or small part, stick them in order to the tape. This way nothing gets lost and when you work backwards to put your computer back together you'll always know which screw or small part is next in line and which one the how-to guide is referring to.
I really hope this helps people with this problem. This seems to be the only solution. And for less than $100 bucks, I think its worth it, especially since you now have back up parts for any other part of your computer that might fail in the future. My disc drive stopped working recently so I'm replacing it with the one that came with the computer I got off eBay; a $90 part. I tried to make this as easy-to-follow, practical, and comprehensive as I could -- for as cheap as I could. GOOD LUCK!!!
-R

I suspect not. There are long threads with hundreds of reports, most with PowerBooks whose serial numbers began with W8 (or W85). Still there is no Repair Extension Program for this issue.
At this point, your only recourse is to discuss the issue with Apple Consumer Relations at 1-800-767-2775, if you are in North America.

Very bad interlaced effect on Chroma Key filter

Hallo everyone,
Does anybody know why when I try to apply a croma key filter on Motion the image I get is like this ?
while when I use FC I get best result? Like this:
Is there any option to set in Motion Prefs? Thank you
iMac G5, CD, C2D, MB Mac OS X (10.4.8)
iMac G5, CD, C2D, MB Mac OS X (10.4.8)
iMac G5, CD, C2D, MB Mac OS X (10.4.8)

DV has a basic problem when trying to do a chroma key - that is it achieves its compression in the color channel - its color information is 1/4th that of its luminance resolution.
This is a quickie - using Conduit to key in Motion:
You can find out about Conduit here:
http://www.dvgarage.com/prod/prod.php?prod=conduit15&sub=samples
Check out the movie on keying DV for some insight into the limitations of keying DV. dvGarage also sells dvMatteBlast that handles all of this - a very nice product and they have a test version you can try...
post back,
Patrick

Color Smoothing 4:1:1 or 4:2:2 (before key in ProRes)

I'm working on some green screen stuff in FCP and I'm wondering what the difference is between the 4:1:1: Color Smoothing tool and the 4:2:2 . Both seem clean when I use the chroma key tool (and I don't see any difference). I'm working with video that was shot in HDV and imported into FCP as ProRes (standard).

So the correct answer is - ProRes 422 is 4:2:2 (at least for compositing purposes). For those interested in learning more, here's the Apple White paper on the subject:
http://images.apple.com/finalcutstudio/resources/white_papers/L342568A_ProRes_WP .pdf
It doesn't matter that the video started life as HDV - the fact that it is encoded as ProRes makes it 4:2:2 from there-on (or until I output it as something else).

Chroma keying and color correction on same clip

I have an image, with some people shot on a green chroma key background. I want to key it on another image, and desaturate it, except the yellow color.
I have no problem keying out the green. I can also desaturate the image, with the deaturate filter, but if I apply the color corrector, and work with it to only keep the yellow color in the image, then my chroma keying is lost.
It kinda turns of the chroma key completely.
What is the easiest way to chroma key out the green of an image and desaturate everything except the yellow color of the image?
I have Final Cut Studio, so if it's easier to do it in Motion, then I'll do that...?
It's shot on HDV, so it's already a little tricky to key out the green perfectly.
thanks for your help.

After you key the image, export it as a self contained QT movie. Then re-import it, and color correct it to suit your needs.
Shane

Chroma key - color smoothing filter renders vertical lines

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