Color and saturation adjustments on IP8720

Is it possible to make color and saturation adjustments by way of the printer driver before printing a photo on the IP8720?
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Hi bklynrickel!
To have a better understanding of your issue, please let everyone know what operating system (Windows Vista/7/8 or Mac OS 10.X) you have and what software you are trying to print from. That way, community will be able to assist you with suggestions appropriate for your product.
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Why is Lightroom significantly altering the color and saturation of my images?

The past few weeks I have been working on a project that involves some very low key and low saturation images.
After creating the general mood and tone of the shots in Lightroom. I then export them to photoshop for retouching and final adjustments. I an exporting to photoshop in profoto RGB. The images open in photoshop looking just fine. I complete the work and save them. When I review the saved tiffs in Lightroom they are much much darker than my working file and signifigantly reduced in saturation (almost to grayscale). There is also a signifigant change in the image when moving from develop to library modes. I know there is always a small change, but this is a very noticeble and signifigant one. When I open the file in PS it looks ok. But when I export the file from LR as a jpg it is again washed out, darker and in general wrong.
This is onl happenign with thes elow saturation color images - All my other images work fine and export as expected, and this workflow has worked well for me for some time. Any thoughts would be apprecaited.

Here is side-by-side comparison of LR, Saved-back-to-TIF-in-LR, and PS versions that doesn't really show any difference other than the estimated sharpness of the CR2 being too much:
The LR settings applied to the CR2 are: Exp -0.5, Cont +50, Clarity +40, Vibrance -60
I have a calibrated normal-gamut monitor, not a wide-gamut monitor.
If you can provide your edited TIF file out of PS via copy.com I can test things with your exact adjustments, instead of guessing some reduced exposure and color settings.
As a comparison of what you're seeing, here is a all-in-one side-by-side of the three images you included, above, where you saved out of PS as sRGB, and in that case, the Library version seems less saturated than the PS and LR-Dev versions which seem similar:
For each side-by-side screenshot, above, I have opened it in Photoshop, which is untagged, and assigned my monitor profile, then converted to sRGB, so the screenshots, themselves, should look right when viewed using an sRGB colorspace.

Photomerge panorama: After creating how do you add color and saturation?

Photomerge panorama: After creating, how do you add color or saturation?

You don’t use selections. The adjustments apply to the whole image. You can alternatively select Curves instead of Hue/Saturation and apply the adjustments to highlights, shadows etc.
Otherwise you need to make a duplicate layer and apply the layer mask to make adjustments to a particular area.

My colors and value are a lot darker and saturated in my navigator window.

My colors and value are a lot darker and saturated in my navigator window. Is there a way to fix this problem?

Same issue as this:
My colors look different outside Photoshop.
Mylenium

Firefox 36 changes colors on EVERYTHING to too bright and saturated.

I have 28, 33 and now 36. All previous versions had the same and more accurate color. But, 36 makes everything too bright and saturated. Every page. Even bookmark icons. Everything.
Something must have changed. Could have changed in 34 or 35 as I skipped those,. but here in 36 is definitely an issue.
Is there a new setting I have missed?
Appreciate your replies. This is hard to view.
~Bob

Hello Bob, try '''disabling graphics hardware acceleration'''.
You might need to restart Firefox in order for this to take effect, so save all work first (e.g., mail you are composing, online documents you're editing, etc.).
Then perform these steps:
#Open Firefox ''Options'' window as follows, click the menu button [[Image:New Fx Menu]] and select ''Options'' .
#In the Firefox Options window, click the ''Advanced'' tab, then select ''General''.
#In the settings list, you should find the ''Use hardware acceleration when available'' checkbox. '''Uncheck''' this checkbox.
#Now, restart Firefox and see if the problems persist.
Additionally, please check for updates for your graphics driver by following the steps mentioned in the following Knowledge base articles:
* [[Troubleshoot extensions, themes and hardware acceleration issues to solve common Firefox problems]]
* [[Upgrade your graphics drivers to use hardware acceleration and WebGL]]
Did this fix your problems? Please report back to us!
Thank you.

How do I lighten up a sequence without loosing color and contrast?

how do I lighten up a sequence without loosing color and contrast?

What have you tired so far? Color correction can be a bit of a challenge until you get comfortable with it.
Also, unless your sequence is one uniform scene, it would probably be better to go on a clip by clip basis to make these adjustments - but here is one quick way to do it for the whole sequence, which may or may not give you the results you are looking for:
Apply an Adjustment Layer that covers the duration of your sequence.
Apply the Fast Color Corrector to the Adjustment Layer.
In the settings for the Fast Color Corrector, bring up the Input Gray level a bit (this will lighten the scene) and raise the Input Black Level (this will help restore some of the contrast). If you need to make the bright portions of the scene brighter, bring down the Input White Level.
Go slowly with small adjustments and adjust to taste. You'll need to work back and forth on those controls to get the best compromise.
If you want more color, increase the Saturation a small amount.
MtD

Odd Issue Editing in Photoshop with color and lens corrections

First off, I'm on LR 4.4 and PS CS6 (Camera Raw 7.4.0.137) using ProPhoto RGB as my LR colorspace and have my PS color settings as Working Space: ProPhoto RGB and my color management policies to preserve embedded profiles.
When I right click on a DNG in LR and choose "Edit in Photoshop", LR sends it to PS and PS does its "Reading in Camera Raw Format" and opens the image. However, the colors are off (very muted) and any lens corrections I've applied in LR are missing. My monitor (iMac on OSX 10.8) is calibrated with a Spyder. I've also noticed that if I choose to edit in another application, it renders the tiff fine and the color and lens corrections are correct in the tiff.
Anyone have any ideas what my issue is?
Thanks,
Matt
ETA: After some experimenting, it seems that the "Adobe Standard" profile is what gets sent to Photoshop. The rest (Camera Landscape, Portrait, etc.) are ignored. What's going on here?

Sounds like you need to reset your warning dialog. Preferences>General>Prompts [Reset all warning dialogs]
Then try it again and make certain of the three choices you are Editing a Copy with Lightroom Adjustments.

Copy and Paste Adjustments Anomoly

I'm using iPhoto 9.3.2, and shoot most of my photos in raw format (Canon CR2). I have just noticed an odd problem when copying and pasting adjustments between raw pic files:
When I make adjustments (exposure, definition, highlights, and sharpness), to a CR2 file, copy those adjustments and then paste them to a different photo, the temp or tint (I can't tell which) of the newly-adjusted photo shifts to a greenish hue. The temp and tint sliders on the newly adjusted picture don't indicate than any change occured, but there is an obvious shift of the colors
If I duplicate the CR2 photo, and pasted the adjustments to it, and get the same color-shifting result (did this since I can easily compare the two photos to each other).
This color shift does not occur when I attempt the same copy/paste of adjustments between jpeg files...
Can anyone out there see if you can duplicate my problem? Is it a known bug?
Thanks,
Bob

Update 1:
If I make any adjustment to the Temperture slider, before doing the cut/paste, the pic I pasted to looks like it ought to... If I make any adjustment to the Tint slider before doing the cut/paste, the pic I paste to gets a green hue.
Noticed that the changes to the hue can be seen in the histogram....
Thoughts?
Bob

Legalities of color-and why are my RGB values inconsistent?

Hi there,
I have a client who is trying to trademark their logo and the RGB values. I have sent them the files and corresponding RGB values, but when they check the files in their mac Digital Color Meter they come up with different values. On my own computer, the values are consistent in the DCM and Photoshop, although I opened it on another computer and found that while the values were still correct when I open the files in Photoshop, the DCM values were incorrect there too.
Does anybody have any history with this? Should I just tell them to ignore their DCM and that Photoshop is correct, or am I doing something wrong with profiles or something? It wouldn't be such a big deal but for the legal implications behind it...
Thanks for any help!!
Eli

I was referring to "Scene Referred" CCchart Lab reference numbers derived from measurements taken of this chart from a spectrophotometer. You'll note the black patch is at L20 according to X-rite. The white patch is quite easy to attain L96 without clipping during exposure of the CCchart to build the profile from using DNG Profile Editor.
What's not easy to control during exposure is the contrast ratio recorded by the camera. Adjusting the middle slider in Levels or the Contrast slider in ACR will show just how much contrast affects hue and saturation viewed on a display. Reality doesn't behave this way.
Contrast/Luminance ratio's are disregarded or barely adjusted for in the DNG CCchart Wizard to come up with proper hue/saturation levels for each of the 18 color patches. The contrast adjusts required to get all 24 patches to match exactly (especially black at L20) makes the image not look right or follow a normal human visual response or perception.
You can adjust contrast in the image after applying the new profile to get a reasonably correct look but quite a few of the 24 patches go off the charts according to the X-rite reference Lab numbers. The whole reason for going by the Lab numbers in profiling a device like a DSLR in the first place is to maintain consistency image to image by using measured results. As you can see this is not possible to achieve in a photograph except maybe in a controlled studio environment, but it does work when trying to match single spot colors that aren't influenced by the surround effect that affects human perception inherent in a photographed scene. A pleasing photograph is not about accurate numbers.
A spectrophotometer is a static device that only reads and measures color wave lengths from color patches and converts them to Lab numbers. It's not a constantly adjusting device like our eyes which adapts to hue, saturation, color temp and contrast levels in any given scene.
I'm going to post three images of a CCchart exposed under a high noon sun that I used to build two different DNG profiles. The first is using ACR default DNG converted source image and doing a straight dual illuminant table profile according to instructions. They're screenshots that include Apple's DCM to show how the black patch changes to accommodate exact Lab numbers as opposed to achieving a pleasing look. You'll note the more the image is made to "pop" the less accurate the Lab readouts and appearance.

Color and contrast different from Premiere Pro 2 DVD creation

I found after creating DVD's via Premiere Pro 2 are more saturated and more neutral in color vs encoding through Encore.
I made a si8de by side test, converted them back to AVI and grabbed the same still of each. The Encore still was lower in contrast (flatter) and a slight bit warmer. over all the DVD compression from PP2 gives a richer look. If you are a film maker or photographer this matters a lot, but not for most users.
the file sizes from premiere are bigger. for example a 8mbs from a 7:30 avi compression on premiere resulted in 544mb while a 9.4 compression via encore 2 resulted in 464 mb. when changing the mbs from 8-9.4 mbs it resulted in exactly the same size file 464mb. even when starting a new project, which means that there might be a bug and encoding on a unknown predetermined mbs, probably 7. This would explain the flatter look of the Encore 2 compression.
Does anyone know how to find out at what rate a dvd has been encoded after it's done? knowing that there isn't any difference in the file size between 8mbs and 9.4 mbs shows that there must be a problem.
This test was done with the Encore DVD 2 trial version. I have vs 1.51 as well and will make a test on this one as well. to see if there is the same problem.

1. Can you detail your exact method, step-by-step, for both Premiere and Encore?
encode encoded in premiere 2 at the highest level 9mbs (didn't chapter for a simple auto disk, this is disabled in pp2 but you can save as an mpg2 and import for chaptering in Encore2)
2. Did you use the exact same source files for all tests, or just files that were the same duration?
Exactly the same source file, when importing the mpg2 into premiere i simply imported each file in the timelime and saved exactly the frame of each mpg2. All this started when i first compared 2 encodings from a film directors reel where quality is crucial, and saw it immidiatly when playing the 2 different dvd's of the same reel on a DVD player (JVC) and Sony monitor.
3. Be sure to include project settings and program preferences for both applications.
encore 2 encoded at cbr 1x 9mbps (highest)
Premiere 2 encoded at cbr 1x 8mbps (highest)
when setting to 9mbps in PP2 I get the3 following warning:
Total Video and audio bitrate (10.536 Mbs) exceeds maximum allowable bitrate (10.030 Mbps) for DVD type of muxing.
So i reduced the bitrate to 8 and still got a file of 557mb and better color and contrast than Encore2.
The final results of encoding in PP2 gives an identical DVD mpg as far as color and contrast to the original AVI.
When encoding at the max rate of 9 in PP1.5 i never got this warning.
I just repeated the above test on more time in PP2 and Encore DVD 2
they must use a different codec for Encore2 than PP2.
Besides the color and gamma shift the image size horizontally is a slight bit different (larger) than the one done with PP2, but not verically.
you can also encode in PP2 save it as a multiplexed mpg2 file and than chapter it for the final dvd in encore2 which gives you the higher quality results of PP2.
Klaus

Printing too contrasty and saturated in CS6. How to correct?

i have just upgraded from Mac OS 10.5 and CS5 to Mac OS 10.8.4 and CS6 printing on Epson 9880. Struggling to get calibrated prints - before it was excellent. Now printed images are WAY contrasty and saturated compared to the monitor, a LA Cie 324, which I calibrate with la Cie Eye One puck. If I use settings "Let Printer" manage color, the print is much less saturated and contrasty than if I use the settings "Let PS" manage color; all this relates to using icc profiles for Epson Premium Photo Paper Glossy, or other papers, Ilford Galerie Prestige Smooth Pearl, for example. The overall color is ok, it is an issue of contrast and saturation at the moment. As with all of these issues, very frustrating!
Any suggestions for resolving this?

Epson does have a problem with the "use 16 bit" checkbox in the Epson print settings that can cause similar issues.
Try turning it off.

Luminosity and saturation blending modes in FW CS4 differ from their equivalents in PSE 7

Example:
Upper bitmap is filled with RGB(232,168,89) color and the lower with RGB(61,114,158) .
Blending results are as follow:
Luminosity in FW CS4: RGB(67,121,175)
Luminosity in PSE 7: RGB(137,190,234)
Saturation in FW CS4: RGB(60,109,158)
Saturation in PSE 7: RGB(41,119,184)
I think PSE uses chroma as saturation and luma Y' 601 with gamma compression (2.2 or 1.8) as luminosity.
So it's compatible with PS. And what about FW. Does somebody know how FW works. I was experimenting with
HLS and HSV and wasn't able to find it out. Maybe FW's modes are better in some web cases, I don't know.

What happens to your blended colors in PSE if you turn off the color profiles?
Fireworks is intended to produce graphics for display in Web applications, which have only recently begun to support color profiles. Even then, you don't want to use them on your page graphics (like nav buttons), because the profiles won't apply to HTML/CSS colors and you'll get mismatches.
PS is primarily intended for photographs and for printing, and so the standard workflow in PS (and I suspect also PSE) is to apply at least a default color profile. One use of color profiles is to correct the colors for printers, but profiles will also change the colors in images.
Have a read:
http://www.viget.com/inspire/save-for-web-simply
http://www.rumblingskies.com/blog/?p=46

How do I make the background of a photo one color and the object another color?

I have a photo of a windmill with the sky and clouds as background. I would like like to keep the clouds as is and change the color of the windmill. How can I do this?

You can use the HSL panel to change relationships between tones and colors. For example use Luminance mode to darken a sky by adjusting the blue and aqua channels or use Saturation mode to make an image monochrome except for one dominant color.
If you want to change color completely first use the HSL panel to remove color and then paint with the adjustment brush set to a solid color; although that’s a bit more tricky.
See examples below:

Images become dark and saturated Photoshop JPEG

So I have noticed several people having this problem, and the solutions that work for them don't seem to work for me!
I start in Camera Raw 8.0, then move to photoshop to crop and tweak a little bit more, then when I save to JPEG and view in windows photo viewer or other medium, the photo is dark and overly saturated. I understand that photoshop is a color mangaged space, and that most other programs are not, but I still can't figure out how to make what I see in photoshop translate to the JPEG image. These will eventually be used on a website and I need everything to look as professional as possible. The image on the right is really dark, especially on the front lawn and porch.
Here are my color settings:
If anyone can help, it would be greatly appreciated.

I suspect that when you're seeing your images not looking right you're viewing them through an incorrectly or incompletely color-managed combination of software and settings. Note that Internet Explorer, while it does read image color profiles, can ONLY show you proper color if your monitors are set to display the sRGB IEC61966-2.1 color space accurately. It makes the (incorrect) assumption that all monitors are sRGB. I believe Windows Photo Viewer only does proper color-management if set to display in a window, not full-screen.
If you're wanting to publish on the web, one generally accepted "least of evils" method is to publish the images with a profile and in the sRGB IEC61966-2.1 color space. At least that way people with "standard gamut" monitors will see them with similar to accurate colors, and folks with properly color-managed setups will see them accurately. Firefox and Safari do NOT assume your monitor is sRGB, and both use the image and monitor color-profiles during image display.
In the bottom-center of Camera Raw is what looks like a link for setting workflow options. If you click it, it will allow you to set Camera Raw to open your images into any of several profiles. As I recall, the out-of-box default is Adobe RGB. You *could* consider converting your images to the sRGB color space directly, then whenever you save them they'll be in the color-space that's more likely to be seen properly. Or you could open them into a wider gamut color space (as they are by default), then Convert them (your last dialog above) to the sRGB color space before saving as JPEG (or use the Save For Web function to do that conversion while creating the JPEG).
There's really no "one set of best parameters" you can just set and forget for color-management. All the various settings and functions have a good reason for being provided. The important thing is to start to understand how color-management works, so you can begin to make the settings and workflow choices that make the most sense for you, to accomplish your goals.
Note that some programs aren't color-managed at all, still others are improperly doing it, and others actually get it right. You really can't be sure everyone is going to see your image in the correct colors, so you have to try for a good compromise. Yes, color-management in the real world is kind of a mess.
-Noel

Auto Levels and other adjustments

Just a small question..will auto levels and other adjustments degrade a photo quality. I most of the times use auto levels before developing a photo and I want to make sure that I keep the same quality of the original image after using adjustments.
Thanks in advance.

If you have limited skills-two schools of thought. Quality will be better if you fine tune- if you put in a little more time-learn full Photoshop, but not everyone has the time-interest or capibilities.
1) If U R only WANT to make basic changes--check out the IMAGE drop-down in PS. You can auto adjust -Color-Tone and Contrast by just clicking on the drop-down.
Are you asking this Q in order becaus you have limited time put into your images? If so, then your capibilities should drive your actions. Go auto but know with digital photography, anyone can take a great shot.
2) If you want to do more with your phontography, learn more about Photoshop CS. 8 months ago-I thought I understood PS. Then I got serious about it. The difference is stunning
Bottom line-you will learn more by trial and error-reading-online info and video. There is a great deal of info out there.
With the advent of digital photogrphy-even rookies can come up with amazing images. Dont short change yourself by being lazy-or just going "auto-all." Make your photos shine
Take your best shot--invest more time-in Photoshop. There is magic out there. Find it
Good luck

Color and saturation adjustments on IP8720

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