Color Cast Removal in Aperture

In Photoshop, I can usually remove a color cast using Image > Adjustments > Auto Color, but I can't find any similar easy way to remove a color cast with Aperture. Has anyone found a way to do this? Thanks.
iMac G5 Mac OS X (10.4.3)

Good luck! The white point tool is pretty much broken.

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Color cast removal

I am scanning old family photos. I prefer not to do any post-processing in the scanning software, but I really like how SilverFast AI has an "Auto Color Cast Removal" function.
Is there any way I can match this setting with a preset in Lightroom?
Here's the one that's been auto color corrected:
And here's the original

Google finds lots of answers, such as this one
How to Achieve the Correct White Balance in Lightroom | iHeartFaces.com

Feature request: adjustable color cast removal

I've been sorting through some underwater photos I took while snorkeling, and the "Auto Levels - Separate" tool does a wonderful job of removing the aquamarine color cast. Unfortunately, it works a bit too well. It would be nice to have a slider that allows for variable removal of color casts, such as the one SilverFast provides for scanning.
Cheers,
Andreas

David,
I haven't used Silverfast, but the "Color" tool is
superb. Use the hue or sat sliders along with the
range setting (at bottom of the tool) to really tweak
out just the color you want. I think you'll be
delighted!
Thanks for your suggestion. I've gotten pretty good using the hue/sat sliders to tweak colors, particularly for adding some punch to washed-out skies.
You can think of the tool I'm requesting as a slider that lets you adjust between no adjustment and hitting "Auto Levels—Separate", e.g., pushing that button 1/4 or 1/2 the way down. You can accomplish the same thing by monkeying with levels for each channel or using the color tool as you describe, but a simple slider for removing color casts seems more straightforward.
Cheers,
Andreas

Removing color casts, and correcting colors to match reference materials? any guides/tutorial/videos

I have been looking for tutorials showing how to use SpeedGrade. I am now comfortable with the UI enough to use it after watching these: http://www.youtube.com/user/AdobeTV/videos?query=speedgrade
I am looking for tutorials that show how to do a couple things, first I would like to be able to remove any color casts. In photoshop to do this you can use a curves layer and use the set white point color picker and click somplace that is supposed to be white. and in premier you could do something similar using the Fast Color Corrector. So basically I am looking for a way to target an area in a frame that should be grays, In Anime, the eyes generally will always be shades of gray, so that is what I would target usually when working with anime in photoshop/premiere. If anyone knows of a tutorial that shows how to do this type of color cast removal color correction in SpeedGrade could you please share a link.
Some of the older 80's and 90's anime on film, the film has aged and that is where the color cast came from. There is also a loss of color information across the board. For instance in the below picture. The sky is supposed to be more blue instead of teal/sea green.
Another thing is back in the 80s and 90s a lot of Anime worked from limited color palletes; something like maybe 16 colors total, so a lot of colors are used repeatedly. So even with only a limited amount of reference material I should be able to get the corrections close. (I dont have reference clips for every single episode, only a handful of scenes from a handful of episodes.)
I have some reference material showing approximately what the colors should be. So my next question is if anyone knows of any tutorials/guides/videos showing how to use SpeedGrade to color correct a clip so that the colors match up with the colors used in a reference clip
I was also wondering about auto correction based on a reference clip, although I am guessing this is still not possible.
When I watched the websiminar: http://seminars.adobeconnect.com/_a227210/p738pxm9zs0/ at about 43 minutes into it, a feature is shown that automatically adjust the color using a clip that contains a colorchart.
I was wondering if a tool like that could analyse a clip start to finish, to create a pallete of used colors, and then compare that to the colors used in another clip and correct them. (a feature like this would probably be more useful/accurate in anime than it would liveaction but who knows.)
Another UI related question:
I did have one question, the only place I see to access the colorwheels is in the looks tab, my video I am working on, just manages to fit at 100% in the monitor.
So I would prefer to hide or collapse the different looks(maybe even with a hotkey) so that I can access the color tools that it is covering, I attached a picture of what I am talking about. I know pressing "P" hides everything at the bottom, and figured maybe there is already a way to hide/minimize/collapse the look presets to access the tools behind them without shrinking down the size of the monitor preview.

There is a special grading filter called "Color match" which can assist in cross-referencing the black/white/gray levels from one playhead to another but it's not documented yet. The suggested way to set black/white/gray points in Sg is to adjust it visually, using the waveforms as a guide, but there's no chance of doing that for something as small as a character's eye. There's no "eyedropper" picker on the primary grading panel because Sg isn't a correcting tool, but a cinematic grading tool. 99% of the time the end result of an Sg grading session is a long way from what the camera pixels actually recorded.
If all you are doing is reversing a color cast then Speedgrade isn't the right tool to use - you should be working in Premiere Pro (with the Fast or 3-Way Color Correctors). If you're a Photoshop person the UI is much more recognizable, it'll handle all the native footage you can throw at it, and you get your B-G-W eyedroppers.
In Speedgrade CS6 you cannot hide the Presets panel in the Look or Mask tab. The UI is really designed for use in a two-monitor system (which all professional colorists will have), and/or with a hardware controller (which means you can keep the entire bottom panel hidden).

How to easily spot color cast in aperture

Hi,
I am having difficulties to properly spot/analyze a color cast in my (scanned from color negatives) images. There is no neutral grey or white present and I'd like to get a handle on correcting this color cast without just trial and error (and making things worse)
Any hints or ideas? Pointing me to a resource on the web to find out how?
(Spotting and correcting the color cast in my scanning software (Silverfast Ai) didn'd work as well)
Thanks a bunch,
Rolf

Hi Rolf -- you're question is not really answerable. Color is almost entirely subjective -- we color our world in our brains, and then we make machines to mimic this (digicam sensors don't record color -- they record luminance as filtered through known colored gels). Your question presumes an objective standard of color correctness. That does not exist.
Nevertheless, you can at least maximize your ability to get the colors as close to "right" as you can. For that you need a color-calibrated workflow, from input (scanner) to output (whatever). There is much information on this on the Web. For Aperture, you'll want a hardware photospectrometer to calibrate your monitor(s) and whatever paper you print on (if you print). I use a Color Munki Photo, and recommend it or something similar. (X-Rite has recently announced a revamped product line.) X-Rite also makes a calibration tool called a Passport. This has several colors and shades of gray of known hues. In use, you make an exposure of these colored squares, and then use them to set the white balance. You might be able to something similar with a scanner. (I don't use one, and don't know anything about scanner calibration.)
HTH. Sorry not to know more.

Does Touch have "remove color cast" and adjust lighting - levels like Photoshop Elements?

Does Touch have "remove color cast" and adjust lighting -> levels like Photoshop Elements?

There isn't a "remove color cast" command per se but there are Levels and Curves adjustments so you can effectively remove/diminish colors yourself.

Is there a way to remove lens color cast?

Hi
i took some photos with a Sigma 12-24mm f/4.5-5.6 EX DG with a canon 5d mark 3 and mark 2
and i noticed some magenta color cast
i tried the color passport check but and create a dng profile , but it doesn't eliminate the color cast
is there a way to remove this magenta color cast?
a tutorial , some advises
photoshop cs6 64bit windows 7
thanks

Color Balance is a simple way, not automatic though.

Pse 3 remove color cast

Obtained elements 3 bundled with epson v700 .Remove color cast,color variations,adjust smart fix are disabled.Am i able to enable these??
or were they permanantly removed.Happy with pse 3,does what i want so no real reason to upgrade at present,only want to use color cast option,maybe
the other 2 at a latter date.
thanks

Thanks to Joe & Juergen. Juergen your tip did not help in this case,however Joe yours did,and i am now able to access the bottons that were inaccesible. But in doing so,it has not helped my overall problem,which is the overall strong redish cast,especially in some of my Gevaert & kodachrome slides.Maybe i'll have to trial pse 7 and see
if it will help.Or just keep on reprinting my b&w negs!!Prehaps there
is someone who can point me in the direction of a freebie download/
plugin that could help.
Many thanks for the assistance.-- john.

Removing Color Cast with TIFF images? (PSE 8)

Hello,
Hoping someone can help. I'm trying to "remove color cast" with TIFF images and I'm not seeing the option as available. It works fine when I try to use it with JPEG images.
To be clear....I'm using PSE 8...after opening a picture (of course), on the top menu "Enhance", then "Adjust Color". When I'm working with a TIFF image the option "Remove Color Cast" is not available/active. It works fine with JPEG images.
What am I missing?
Thanks,
Rich

Alternatively if you want to keep the file at 16 bit click File >>Open As >>Camera Raw
Then use the temperature and tint sliders to edit your tiff.

How to remove cool/Blue color cast in pictures

I had incurrect setting when taking some pictures, which turned the pictures blue. Is there a way to correct this in Elements 9?
Message title was edited by: Brett N

The 'color cast' correction I mentionned above is really the simplest, 'one click' tool in Elements, but there are other ways.
My favourite one is to open the photo (even jpegs) in ACR. Then you have the same interface than with raw file, and the temperature and tint sliders.
The advantage is that once you have corrected one picture (also a one click sampling of neutral white/gray), the settings can be used for the next picture. You can correct a batch of images rapidly.
Edit:
To open a jpeg in ACR, use 'Open As' instead of 'Open' in the editor. On the bottom line for the file format, select the 3rd option 'Camera raw...' not the first 'Photoshop raw'.

Strong color cast in prints

I'm printing from Aperture to an Epson R800 and the prints come out with a very strong red/brown color. Its not like a subtle cast from, say a miscalibrated monitor (monitor is a Dell 2407 WFP A02 calibrated with a Huey pro).
I have the following relevant settings:
Printer profile: SPR800 prem glossy
Media Type: premium lossy photo paper
Advanced/Best photo/Gloss on.
AFAIK these are the correct settings.
I spoke to Epson who suggest I use colour controls to correct the color cast - what price colour management!

first tested Lightroom 2.1 and it works as it should so does PSE4 but not PSE6
PSE6 Mac Printing Colours darker than PSE4 - Adobe accepts fault
My work requires that when I create prints for artists I must replicate all the prints exactly everytime. It worked perfectly from PSE2, PSE3 and PSE4 but now......
I am unable to replicate quality of printing on MACOSX PSE6. it works great on PSE4. I mailed some printed images on art paper to adobe in amsterdam and a cd with the same images. After weeks of discussions phone, email and after testing using their work flow....they came back with some answers.
Finally a couple of replies from Adobe re colour problems and they have accepted that they are double managing the image and that I should use printer management to do the colour conversion.. here are their two replies and the comment that they will now drop me until???????   
Answer #1   Your Customer Service Number is: 129800224  PSE6 Mac Printing Colours darker than PSE4 - Adobe accepts fault
My work requires that when I create prints for artists I must replicate all the prints exactly everytime. It worked perfectly from PSE2, PSE3 and PSE4 but now......
I am unable to replicate quality of printing on MACOSX PSE6. it works great on PSE4. I mailed some printed images on art paper to adobe in amsterdam and a cd with the same images. After weeks of discussions phone, email and after testing using their work flow....they came back with some answers.
Finally a couple of replies from Adobe re colour problems and they have accepted that they are double managing the image and that I should use printer management to do the colour conversion.. here are their two replies and the comment that they will now drop me until???????   
Answer #1   Your Customer Service Number is: 129800224   Thank you for contacting Adobe Technical Support.   After consulting with my colleagues about the issue you raised, I can let you know the following:   The issue is both on our as well as the driver software side and the workaround we have given is the best available at this time. This issue is affecting all printers, not just Epson or Canon.   The soft proofing effect that you are seeing in the print preview is indeed an attempt at soft proofing. However since Photoshop Elements managed prints are incorrectly double colour managed it is not as useful as it was initially designed.   As to the exact details of why this occurred, we have no official information.   We believe that this will resolve the issues you are experiencing, however, should the reply not help solve the problem, please contact us again, quoting the case number given above, and we will re-open the case.
  Answer # 2  Subject: Re: Adobe TS #180107025 / Mario / PSE6 oversaturated Print (KMM3793441I51L0KM)   Dear Mr. Laugesen,   We have had word back from our engineers regarding your issue.   The Photoshop Elements team are aware of the problem and are working with Apple and the printer manufacturers to get this to work correctly. In the meantime, the only workaround is to switch off colour management in Photoshop Elements and let the printer handle the colour management.   Unfortunately we can not make an estimation as to when a fix will be provided. We will close the case for the time being as there really is nothing more we can do about this issue besides offering the suggested workaround. Closing this case does not mean that the research will stop however and the engineers are working on a solution to this.   Powerbook G4 Mac OS X (10.4.11) epson R2400

Color cast with Huey Pro

I am using a Huey Pro to calibrate my monitors for use with Aperture. After calibration both my MacBook Pro and iMac have a very red color cast.
Thanks,
Ken

have you tried reporting this on the pantone support site - if you do a search there, you'll find a couple of problems mentioning the same thing your seeing.
I have the same problem and it could be a broken calibrator.

Panasonic GF1 horrible color cast

It seems that Aperture has some serious issues with a magenta color cast when converting GF1 RAW files. It's not so apparent with 100-200 ISO (but still there, especially whith large white balance shifts) images but once you get to ISO 800 the images become unusable.
The color cast is mostly apparent in the dark(er) parts of the image.
Check out the following links to some quick test images that illustratie the problem perfectly. The first link is the image developed in Aperture (latest version) with the white balance set on the white wall in the background. The second link is the same image developed through the latest Camera Raw with the white balance set in the exact same spot.
http://www.benoitvermeeren.be/forumpics/GF1_1704.jpg
http://www.benoitvermeeren.be/forumpics/GF1_1704CRaw.jpg
The Camer Raw image is perfect. Is anybody else seeing this issue with the GF1 (or other Panasonic cameras with similar sensors). It makes using the GF1 with Aperture impossible.
It's quite unfortunate as Aperture performs great with my D700 images and I really don't want to switch to Lightroom because it's horrible as a library management application compared to Aperture (altough Camera Raw is giving me better results and noise reduction, lens correction and split toning are great, but I digress...).
Also check out this thread for a similar experince with the GH2 (+4 months old):
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/readflat.asp?forum=1041&message=37849807&chang emode=1
The people in that thread have sent feedback to Apple and AFAIK this hansn't been resolved yet so I'm not getting my hopes up.

Raw files are not visible. They must be converted to an image file format in order to be seen. This is done in-camera for display on the LCD screen, and for export of JPG (or other) files. For almost all cameras, any processing which changes the appearance is done to a JPG file.
When you import raw files +you do not get the JPG processing+. That's what raw is -- it's the light information prior to being converted to an image format. (The are enormous advantages to having this data available.) That is why your raw file previews are in color.
There are a number of monochrome and grayscale conversion presents in all raw development programs. It is generally accepted that these do a better job than most of the in-camera converters. There is no question that they give a choice among many -- as well as the ability to tweak them to your heart's -- or your printer's -- content, unlike the baked-in conversions done in-camera.
In short, raw is never black & white or monochrome. Adobe has a good older white paper on raw which is worth reading: +Understanding Digital Raw Capture+.
OS X is working correctly.

Pentax K-x RAW color shift problem with Aperture 3

I have seen a few posts similar to what my problem is but not exactly.I have two Pentax K-200D's and a new Pentax K-x. I shoot RAW with all of them and the K-200D's work great. The RAW files however from the K-x are doing something strange. Sometimes (more and more though) the files are being imported into Aperture and there is a radical color shift after they finish loading. ALL of the preview thumbnails look fine in the camera and the Aperture import window. However, after importing them and processing is complete, some of the shots have a magenta color shift, but most that have this problem shift radically to a green tint. Everybody looks like they are in "The Matrix."
I do not have any brightness correction on the camera turned on as other posts imply might be the problem. I have also remove the Aperture RAW 3.2 and tried 3.0 and 3.1 with no solution. 3.0 doesn't recognize the files at all and 3.1 does the same thing as 3.2. Here are two examples of UNEDITED RAW files:
Frame that looks fine in RAW
http://gallery.me.com/mattcline#100470/IMGP5982&bgcolor=black
The next frame taken with the same settings on the camera:
http://gallery.me.com/mattcline#100470/IMGP5983&bgcolor=black
I do have one possible pattern. I had the camera set on rapid fire capture. It appears to me that the first frame I take when the shutter button is depressed looks and translates fine. All the subsequent frames take in rapid fire under the same shutter release have the green shift when taking shots in relative shade. Things taken in bright sunlight have the magenta shift.
Any ideas on what is going on or how to fix this?
Thanks.

kb8wfh wrote:
I just downloaded Apple's RAW 3.3 and it still made no difference.
Going back over the files, I found that going back and forth between the two, see no difference in the RAW processing headings. I did see however that in the meta data that the two pictures I have in the example of those listed above have one difference. There is a setting on the Exposure Bias for the one that was fine was -0.3 ev and the one that has the green contrast blast has an Exposure Bias of 0.3 ev. So the one that looks right is slightly negative. Doesn't seem like that should be a big difference, but apparently it is.
I did take some pictures with the RAW+JPG setting and I had the same problem with the RAW files. Some were ok, some were green, others were magenta shifted. However, all the JPG files looked just fine.
Switching from Aperture isn;t really an option for me. I have been using it for a long time and it generally works very well...perfectly with my K-200D's. It's just some bug with the RAW decoder for the K-x.
It's a known bug and I have been in touch with Apple staff over it, including engineers. It's not just the K-x. Other brands (Canon) and models suffer from the RAW processor gone wrong.
Right now there is no fix. At the pace Apple works at, there may not be one for quite some time. Use JPEG, use iPhoto, or move to Lightroom.
Another suggestion is to phone customer service and complain that their "Pro" program is not working as expected. I spent hours with an engineer going over the issue including a screen share session, only to be told to use JPEG.
This was 4 months ago.

Magenta color cast problem on canon 7d raw files

when i import canon raw files (cr2) into lightroom 3, i get a magenta color cast over the whole image. the thumbnail image looks fine, but when lightroom opens up the image, it get's a magenta color cast over the whole thing. i shot raw+jpeg mode too, and there's a huge differnce in color between the two. the jpeg looks like how i shot it in camera but the raw image has the ugly magenta color. not only do i get this ugly color, but it seems like there's added noise compared to jpeg image.
i tried converting the cr2 into a dng. but when i open that in lightroom, i get the same problem.
i use aperture 2.1 (i only use the lr3 trial so far), but i have the same problem there.
i use cs3 but i downloaded cs5 trial.
acr i have is 6.1
help.
thanks.

Go to develop and the callibration tab and change it in the pull down menu to a canon default like 'Neutral' and not the adobe one which is made by somebody totally colour blind or obviously a Nikon fan.
Although this is weird as the problem for me has always been canon JPG's with the cast and not the RAW.
Also check your white balance cause Lightroom seems to change it whatever.. 'AS SHOT' is a big fat Adobe lie so use a preset from your camera in the drop down box.. Why? I shoot with Canon's flash WB setting which i know to be 5500k with the tint at zero. On import, Lightroom changes it to 6150 and adds an amazing +7 on the magenta tint, if i chose 'FLASH' things suddenly turn to what i see on the camera LCD.. I'm sure that is where the big fat tint has come from since day one.

Color Cast Removal in Aperture

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