Color correcting FOOD photos

I need to color correct gourmet food photos for large format printing on a company truck. Any tips or suggestions on books or links to guide me. Thanks.

Professional Photoshop by Dan Margulis:
http://tinyurl.com/49fvm8
Also his book about Photoshop Lab:
http://tinyurl.com/53rlp8
For large format printing you'll need
some recommendations about resolution etc..
Best regards --Gernot Hoffmann

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Color correction for photo taken under abnormal lighting

I have a "problem image." It's a photo of an important man making a speech in the city where I live. It was an outdoor ceremony under a tent made of partly transparent white and red strips. It cast a slightly pinkish color on him. I tried a simple color correction, but pushing the control all the way toward cyan had no effect. Is there a method to handle this?

That photo is hugely oversaturated, with a small shift to magenta. Use Image - Adjust - Hue/Saturation, then maybe bump up the contrast with Curves or Brightness/Contrast.
Finally, you might want to brush lightly over his face with the Dodge tool set to Midtones and Protect Tones to bring some fill light in.
-Noel

Color Correcting in Photoshop

I know everyone has a different method of color correcting their photos. I have a way of doing this, but I was wondering if there was a "standard" way of color correction? Can anyone point me to any online resources or books I can find at the library to do this properly? Thank you.

In Levels, Opt+clicking while dragging the end points are very useful to set black and white end points in the Histogram.
In Curves, middle adjustments control gamma/brightness/contrast. A lot of people also correct color in Curves, but I rarely do.
In the Info pallet, if you can get the black/neutral/white points to display near equal numbers -- 0,0,0 128,128,128, 255,255,255 for example -- most of your color correcting will already be done.
Selective Color (set to Absolute) is also very useful to learn about to pick a color (like red, for example) and work on skin tone. Selecting Black here (and neutraling the Black numbers is also a major part of color balancing photos.
Working in 16-bit, Adjustment Layers is also recommended...

? about image resolution/color correction when apple prints photo book

My first time making a photo book. I color correct and sharpen all of my images in Adobe Lightroom 2 first. Then I save the jpegs and import into iPhoto to make a book. Is there an option for turning off auto color correction when the file is uploaded to apple for printing? Is there an accurate way to tell how the photos will print on the specific paper they use? Also, what print resolution should the photos be set to? Is 180 dpi enough? Thanks in advance.

first read the Apple pages - http://www.apple.com/support/photoservices/preparation_tips/ - and all of its links
Second - I suspect you will be disappointed. Based on reports on these forums almost everyone who uses iPhoto exclusively to preprocess photos is extremely happy with the results. very often people you over process their photos using a third party program (including Lightroom, Photoshop, etc) are unhappy because the printing process is optimized for point and shoot cameras and iPhoto processing - it is NOT a professional desktop book process
There are no options re color correction - it is built in again aimed at sRGB, point and shoot cameras and iPhoto processing
Plus there have been reported incompatibilities between iPhoto and Lightroom
The print resolution is what it is - if it will be less than 180 dpi you will get a waarning - it can be greater
The papers they print on are specified here - http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3412
LN

The image color in Windows Photo Gallery is wrong, same image in other program color is correct.

This is the correct color form Google Image:
This is the color from Windows Photo Gallery:
It looks like it is a issue of Windows Photo Gallery bcause if the same image is opened in another program(Photoshop, paint, etc), the color stays same, the thumbnail color is correct as well. However, it is different in Windows Photo Gallery.
Does anyone know what the problem is？
Thanks.
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Windows photo gallery is not colour profile aware, so assumes your monitor is sRGB. The same is true of the desktop wallpaper. There is nothing you can do about this, other than use a different default picture viewing application as default, or convert your images to the ICC profile of your monitor (which you can do in photoshop). I would only recommend this for wallpapers though.

Colors not rendered correctly in Photos

The Photos app is not rendering colors correctly. I just downloaded the Loom photo organizer app, which accesses photos from my iPhone Camera Roll. As I was using Loom to scroll through photos on my iPhone Camera Roll I noticed that one particular nature photo displayed vividly, the way I remembered it when the photo was taken a few days ago. The image was of a large grove of golden aspen on a mountainside in Wyoming. I had viewed the same photo using the Photos app and thought the yellows looked muted but assumed that the colors had been affected by the glass car window, through which the original image was taken. Curious, I compared architectural photos I took in Denver earlier today and noticed the same thing. Colors were presented correctly by Loom, but yellows were not expressed correctly in the Photos app. Neither of these photos had been edited in any way and both were taken in natural light. The architectural shot was not taken through glass.
I looked for a color correction or color balance setting on the iPhone, but did not find one. My iPhone dsplay hardware seems fine, again, becuase Loom presented the colors correctly.
I am curious if anybody else has noticed this and also wonder how I might notify Apple.

Now I understand the problem described in my post, above. I don't know how it happened, but a "Fade" filter was being applied to all of my recent photos in the Photos app. When I selected "None" in the filter menu, the yellows were expressed properly. Again, I don't know how this happened. Older photos did not have the Fade filter applied. I'll have to pay attention to this in the future.
But, if you want to reduce the yellow in your outdoor photos, the Fade filter works well.

Color correcting photos, this isn't making sense.

I have tried endlessly with color correcting photos. What am I looking for when I'm placing my color sample? For example, I open up a photo. I look around, choose a grey area, at 3x3 or 5x5 average sample. I shift click my eyedropper there. I open up curves, choose the red channel, make the output values the same as green. I do the same with blue, yet my photo does NOT look color corrected. If I open up a photo with too much green or blue, how are people restoring them to regular color? Any help is appreciated, thanks.

In the Curves dialog or panel, click on each of the white, gray, and black eyedroppers (to the right is the PS4 panel version), one at a time, and after clicking on an eyedropper, click on an appropriate white, gray, or black point in the image. Then you can modify the curves as needed.

IPhoto unable to export EXIF information correctly for photos with color filters

I have imported photos from my phone to iPhoto and noticed that some of the photos do not have EXIF information when exporting to other places or synced back to iPhone.When I am trying to view the photo in iPhoto, the date is correctly shown.
The date shown in the iPhone photo moment tab is the import date rather than the original date when the photos were taken.
When I am trying toview the photo in iPhoto, the date is correctly shown.
(for example: the photo was taken in Dec 1, 2012, imported to iPhoto in Nov 1, 2014, and synced back to iPhone.
the date shown in iPhone is Nov 1, 2014, the date shown in iPhoto is Dec 1, 2012.)
After further looking into the details of the photo, i have noticed that theses photos are taken with color filters in iPhone or bursting photos or panoramas.
(e.g a mono or fade filter choosed when taking photo in iPhone camera).
When choose " reveal in finder" option in iPhoto for these photos, there are two options : view original or modified.
the original files contain EXIF information and the modified files do not.
the original files show photo without color filter
the modified files shows photo with color filter, the modified photos are what the photos were contained in iPhone originally.
When exported syncing these photos, the modified files was exported/synced, however, no EXIF information was exported. photos only contains the creation date.
These resulted in a mess in the photo collection in my phone. photos were displayed in wrong order.
When i export these photo to another location for back up purposes, i choose "include all location information, name, keyword", only the modified photos were exported without any EXIF information.
The only way I found is reveal these photos in finder.
iPhoto seems unable to export/sync photos that are taken with color filters/ panorama photos/ bursting photos.
is there any way to solve this problem? Thank you!

i have just taken a photo with effects and imported to iPhoto, The EXIF can be exported. The problem is syncing.
I think this problem only happen to photo taken before iOS 8.
EXIF of photo with effects unable be synced back to iPhone.
Apple acknowledged that the new Photos.app in iOS 8 is handling edits differently, see:
iPhoto and Aperture don't have edits to photos you import from iOS 8 devices
In iOS 8 edited versions are stored in a different way from previously. And it looks like there is now a bug, that prevents the older edited versions from being handled correctly.
Send a bug report to Apple. You could use the feedback form, if you do not have a developer account: http://www.apple.com/feedback/iphoto.html

Photos look like film negatives after color correcting

I tried following Scott Kelby's instructions for color correcting digital images in PSE 10. I was entering the values he gave for the R,G and Blue channels. I got off track and probably missed a step. Anyway, now when I try any of the auto correction features, my images look like film negatives and not like a regular digital image. How can I re-enable the auto correction features (levels, color correction, etc.) ?

Make an levels adjustment layer and Alt (option) click on the Auto button in the levels dialog.
Then in the Auto Color correction Options set the RGB values for
Shadows RGB 0,0,0
Midtones RGB 128,128,128
Highlights RGB 255,255,255
Then check Save as Defaults

Color Correction for DVD and online

I have a 13" SD TV hooked up to my mac working as a color correction monitor for FCE.
My question is: Should I always color correct using the TV monitor vs looking at the Canvas in FCE? What I'm seeing is the picture in the canvas is darker and more saturated then the view of the TV monitor. Is it best to trust the TV monitor vs the canvas? And should it make any difference if the final project is going to DVD vs online? I'm assuming the ending product (mov file) should look the same if the mov file is viewed from a computer vs on a TV from a DVD. In a nut shell, once the clip is color corrected using the ext monitor, should I be good to go no matter where the file ends up?
Thoughts?
Thanks so much

Hi
I would take some photos with color miss match eg blue tint (Blå-Stick in Swedish)
and with other known color anomalities.
Put them in TimeLine and playback. View TV - corrected or as bad as from start.
I use a color corrected CRT-broad-cast monitor but prior to this a small TV and
this one did a good job.
Yours Bengt W

Color correction in CS3

Sorry for my newbness on this but I'm trying to make sure I'm not duplicating or undoing my work from one tool in another. I recently finished going through Scott Kelby's CS3 for Digital Photographers book and I'm a bit confused on some aspects of color correction. He starts out having you set WB, exposure, contrast settings, etc. in ACR. Then when you move it to PS he has you use the curves panel to color correct. Of course that entails using the black eye dropper and clicking on the blackest/darkest area of the photo, similar for the white dropper, and after a nice little trick to find the right spot......... an area for the midtone dropper.
The thing is I've noticed that once I make that first click with the black dropper, that nice contrast I had from ACR adjustments goes out the window and the photo brightens up a lot. The final steps of putting 3 points on the curve and dropping the blacks end and raising the whites end brings it back a bit but I was thinking isn't setting the WB with the dropper in ACR already color correcting? Even at the end of the book when he goes through his actual workflow using a provided .dng example he does all the ACR stuff and then moves to PS and uses the curves panel.

Noel,
I understand and respect your opinion about how you edit your images. To each his own.
But the original poster said: Sorry for my newbness. . .
So he's rather unfamiliar with Photoshop. Isn't it better to let new users learn a safer way to edit with the ability to return to their original image when they inadvertently make a hash of things? For the original poster and all the other inexperienced users that come to these forums, I like to let them know that there's the equivalent of a seat belt and an air bag that can save them a lot of grief.
I deal with files from graphic artists that have used Photoshop for years and have never even hear of an adjustment layer, a layer comp or a Smart Object.
They have files with 40 layers. 30 of which they have turned off since they have to make so many permanent uneditable filter adjustments with every slight variation of filter setting, just in case they might need a certain layer from 3 months ago when they tweaked one object in the file. So many of their issues could have been solved with simple adjustment layers.
I want people to understand the versatility of Photoshop and not just learn the same half dozen procedures and stop at that.
You are absolutely correct that for some uses an adjustment layer isn't necessary, But the OP said that he had forgotten the part he had read about adjustment layers and how he definitely wants to start using them. After my post he remembered that there was another new thing about Photoshop that he wanted to learn. Hurrah!
Perhaps in the future the OP will return to the forums to help out newbies like he once was himself.

APERTURE3 changing all my in camera color corrections while importing?

hey everyone finally made the switch to aperture 3, not sure what im doing wrong but whenever i import the pictures from my PANASONIC GF1 or CANON 50D all the in camera color corrections (for example white balance or conversion to black and white ) those settings are dumped and the original image (raw file) is imported into the program.
is this right? is there a setting to where i can turn this off? alot of times i like working in my camera to get the image how i want it to look. sorry if this is a very noob question thanks for any help

WALTER-MILANO-ITALY wrote:
May I ask you your help ?
I use RAW+Jpg in different cameras and I import Both Raw as Master, leaving the originals on an external HD, that is referenced system.
I am missing something ?? For instance if I take a BW with my EP2 I get a RAW colored and a BW jpeg into Aperture only if I import separate masters.
If you use your normal 'Both RAW as Master' option, can you Control+Click (right-click)and use the set JPEG to Master option to switch to the Black & White version displayed?
Probably I am only wasting time shoting BW in camera because you can do it later from RAW with aperture...
If the JPEG captured what you wanted to see and will work for your purpose, then it is not a waste of time - IMHO.
I shoot RAW+JPEG also and import 'Both JPEG as Master' because most of the time the JPEG works for what I want.
Note - RWBoyer has a great site with a lot of information about Aperture here:
http://photo.rwboyer.com/

Color correction like in Aperture

Hi
Im using Aperture for my photos, and there is a nice preset in Adjustment -> Presets -> Quick fix, which makes the color correction for us.
Is there such option in FCP X ?
Im not good in color correction so i would like to use feature like this.
Thank you

I don't care for it but you could try the balance color function under the magic wand in the toolbar.

Unable to Export Color Corrected Video's to Original format for AVCHD (GH2) and ProRES Codecs.

I imported a 176 MBPS AVCHD clip from my GH2 into Lightroom 4, then i added color presets to the video and color corrected the video, however during export when i select the video format as original the color correction does not apply to the video, only the original video is saved, But when i select H.264 or DPX the video is saved with the effects applied. I also tried using a AVCHD clip converted to Apple ProRES but when i export the video the effects are not applied to the saved video. Also the option i get for saving H.264 files is only 22 MBPS.

Original, whether for photos or video, means "unedited". Bear in mind that this isn't intended for high-end video editing - just simple edits for digitial photographers. It won't replace your video editing software anytime soon, if ever.

Snow Leopard's Default Gamma & Color Correcting for Pre Press in Photoshop CS4

After searching the forums I thought I would start my own thread on this subject.
I have Photoshop CS4 and InDesign CS4 and I have continued to color correct, for pre press, in OS 10.4.11 Tiger with the 1.8 Default Gamma and 6500 color tempurature, using Apple's display calibration tools in the OS's System Preferances.
I want to switch to Snow Leaopard but with it's Defualt Gamma of 2.2, I'm not able to make my minitor manually adjust to the needed range for brightness and contrast that is needed to begin the calibration process. Is there a way to color correct photos, for pre pre press, in Photoshop with a 2.2 Gamma setting in my display preferances?

I have had success just with Apple's System Preferences for color calibration. I do design and pre press for a number of customers of the various printers I work with. Most of the photos I work with are from digital cameras and are provided by the customer. The only point in the whole process, where the photos get adjusted to have eye pleasing color, when coming off the printing press, is when I work with them.
The printers I work with continue to send their customers to me, for design and pre press, because they like my color work on the photos. I send the pre press files as Press Optimized PDFs to the printer's FTP server and the printer does all the direct to plate separations in-house. I want to continue to be reliable in that area and so the brighter default Gamma built into Snow Leopard seems to complicate things if I ever want to move up from Tiger to Snow Leopard.
I have two 17" Apple CRT displays that cannot adjust into calibration range when I'm booted in Snow Leopard. These CRT displays can only manually adjust in range for calibration under Tiger or Leopard. It sounds like if I purchase an IPS based LCD monitor, made by Apple, Dell, or other brands, I will probably be able to manually adjust the display for Gamma 1.8, under Snow Leopard.
I was posing this question about using Gamma 2.2 because if I could color correct for pre press with the 2.2 setting, I could continue to use my old Apple 17" CRT displays and also any web content I create will preview closer in color, on PCs as they will on my Mac. Maybe my review PDFs will view with similar color on my customers PCs if I work with a 2.2 Gamma setting and instead of 1.8. For now I know I will keep my printers happy if I continue to work with a monitor that has a 1.8 Gamma setting and a 6500 color temperature setting. If that must continue to be the standard for pre press, then I will need to get an IPS based LCD monitor that will allow me to adjust in the 1.8 Gamma range while booted in Snow Leopard.

Color correcting FOOD photos

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