Color intensity in lightroom vs. photoshop

hi,
i love lightroom. i just recently purchased and use it for all my raw processing. i use a large format camera and a leaf valeo 22mp digital back. the color intensity in lightroom is amazing. when i export it to photoshop though to clean up spots and the like, i notice a less intense representation of the photo. is there a way to keep that wonderful intensity and contrast? monitor is calibrated every two weeks.

Make sure that photoshop is setup to respect embedded profiles (Edit->Color Settings, make sure in color management policies all three popups show "respect embedded profiles). It sounds like you have the color management in PS set up incorrectly. LR and PS should look basically indistinguishable safe for some minor differences in how PS renders.

Similar Messages

Picture color profile in Lightroom vs Photoshop CS2 editing

Hi all, I hope someone can solve this for me.
When I'm viewing picture in Light room, all my pictures are a bit warmer ( have a yellowish tint to them ) compared to when I view them in Photoshop CS2. The same is true if I view them in other programs. This is true for all my picture file type (jpg, tif or raw). I get the feeling that it's Light room that in the wrong in how it displays the picture and not the other programs. Using the warms tool to make the picture a bit colder, only adds a bluish tint to the image which isn't even close to what it looks like (unedited) in Photoshop.
I get the feeling that Lightroom does something to the picture, or uses some sort of color profile, driver that other programs don't use.
Is there a way of changing this?

>When I purchase these ADOBE products I expect them to JUST WORK!!!!!
Unfortunately, when Microsoft, Dell and others enter the fray it's no longer up to just the Adobe folks. Differences between Photoshop and Lightroom are almost always due to a corrupt monitor profile. Adobe has nothing to do with that.
>I dont wanna have to be worried about corrupt profiles yada yada yada!!!
I just want to be able to do my color correction and exposure corrections in Lightroom export as a High Res Jpeg and then do the remainder of my work in Photoshop and have them both look the same.
If your screen is correctly calibrated that will be the case. Unfortunately if you want to do color sensitive work on a computer with a typical monitor, you have to have a rudimentary understanding of profiles and color management. There is unfortunately no way around it. This is no different from traditional color photography where you have to understand what different film, different filters and different development do to your colors. The terminology is just different.
>How do I fix this and please go through it STEP BY STEP BY STEP!!!!
I am not one for the computer lingo....
OK. I'll assume first that you have no hardware calibrator and that you are on windows:
1. Make sure your Photoshop color settings are set up to respect embedded profiles. See the
first screenshot in this post(ignore everything else as it is no longer relevant in LR 2).
2. Open your monitor's properties panel, click on advanced and go to the color management tab. Delete any profile you see there. This is the culprit. Probably a bad profile got installed in some driver update for your graphics card or your monitor.
3. Restart Lightroom and Photoshop and that's it! You'll have corresponding colors. You are however, cheating yourself as your monitor is completely uncalibrated. This is how 99% of computer users run their monitors.
So here is what you should be doing if you care about your color and matching to print and making sure that others see the same colors. Even though hardly anybody calibrates, the only way to get a good average correspondence is to calibrate your monitor and use color managed apps. This sequence is valid for both macs and PCs
1. Do as above step one and make sure Photoshop is set up correctly and then go out and buy a hardware calibrator (or order online). They can be had for <$100 for pretty good ones. Look for example for Spyder2 and Huey Pro.
2. Calibrate your screen following the instructions from the software
3. Restart Lightroom and Photoshop. Now you'll have identical but correct color.
If you have a mac, you can cheat slightly and use http://www.computer-darkroom.com/colorsync-display/colorsync_1.htm instead of hardware calibration. You cannot expect very good correspondence between monitor and prints though with that method.

Color spaces in Lightroom and Photoshop

I read that Lightroom uses the large ProPhoto color Space and then again, that it's gamma curve ist close to sRGB. So what is my color space when working in Lightroom? ProPhoto, or sRGb, or something else?
And what kind of a color management workflow between Photoshop and Lightroom do you advocate? Using ProphotoRGB or sRGB as color work space in Photoshop? I used to work in AdobeRGB in Photoshop. Has this to be changed to gain maximum color consistency?
Thanks again for any help!
Johann M Ginther

Hey Claude,
if it did not have an attached profile it is almost definitely in sRGB or, more rarely, Apple RGB. Lightroom always assumes sRGB for untagged files which is typically a safe bet. Photoshop generally uses the working space for untagged images. Since you had adobeRGB there, you should get a more saturated image in photoshop then in Lightroom. The same data is simply interpreted in a different color space leading to different colors. This has nothing to do with the monitor profile therefore and my initial hunch was wrong. So for untagged images in photoshop, you should usually assign sRGB to them instead of working space.
>As for calibration hardware we do use them here so I will use it but since the Mac was brand new out the box I assumed that it was ok...
Unfortunately, in general the canned calibration is not very good on Macs. I find very large differences between the shipped profile and a profile generated by a calibrator. Also, Apple ships profiles that set your display's gamma to 1.8 instead of the standard 2.2. This leads to many images in webbrowsers being too low contrast. Even Apple suggests recalibrating your screen at 2.2 if you do digital photography work (it's in their Aperture help files). In this case though the difference between Lightroom and Photoshop had nothing to do with the monitor profile but was related to photoshop interpreting untagged files in its working space instead of the more likely sRGB space.

COLOR DISPLAY IN LIGHTROOM AND PHOTOSHOP

Hi I am a new user of Lightroom but a longtime user of Photoshop.
My question is this:
When opening the exact same TIFF file in Lightroom and Photoshop CS3 is there a way to configure Lightroom so that it will display the image exactly like Photoshop ? I mean the difference that I get is not dramatic but if there is a way to make it perfect I would love to know.
Thanks,
Claude from Montreal

Hey Claude,
if it did not have an attached profile it is almost definitely in sRGB or, more rarely, Apple RGB. Lightroom always assumes sRGB for untagged files which is typically a safe bet. Photoshop generally uses the working space for untagged images. Since you had adobeRGB there, you should get a more saturated image in photoshop then in Lightroom. The same data is simply interpreted in a different color space leading to different colors. This has nothing to do with the monitor profile therefore and my initial hunch was wrong. So for untagged images in photoshop, you should usually assign sRGB to them instead of working space.
>As for calibration hardware we do use them here so I will use it but since the Mac was brand new out the box I assumed that it was ok...
Unfortunately, in general the canned calibration is not very good on Macs. I find very large differences between the shipped profile and a profile generated by a calibrator. Also, Apple ships profiles that set your display's gamma to 1.8 instead of the standard 2.2. This leads to many images in webbrowsers being too low contrast. Even Apple suggests recalibrating your screen at 2.2 if you do digital photography work (it's in their Aperture help files). In this case though the difference between Lightroom and Photoshop had nothing to do with the monitor profile but was related to photoshop interpreting untagged files in its working space instead of the more likely sRGB space.

Color changes between Lightroom and Photoshop Elements

I have a new monitor and I have the SyderPro4 calbration software. My monitor is the Dell UltraSharp U2713HM. When calibrated with the Syder my colors are different when I go into different programs. The same photo looks different in Lightroom than it does in Photoshop Elements. When I export the picture from Lightroom to Elements the picture becomes very orange. I have already talked to Dell and to Datacolor about my issue and they both are telling me this shouldn't be happening. When I uninstall my calibration software my problem goes away, and the colors of the images stay consistant between the two programs. Does anybody have any advice to what maybe wrong?

How do you export to Elements? Directly from Lightroom? If so, what profile are you choosing? What resolution are you specifying? I normally use proPhoto RGB which is the profile that LR more or less uses internally and 330.

How to make colors looks same in Lightroom and Photoshop?

The colors of JPGs with sRGB colorspace are displayed differently between Lightroom and Photoshop and other image view applications.
I edited RAW images in Lightroom and export them to JPG files with sRGB colorspace, but their colors are eventually different from what I saw in LR.
(I set ProPhoto as the colorspace for my Photoshop.)
Is there anything I can do to solve this problem? Or maybe to reduce the color difference?
What is the best I can do to manage colors for those images that I want to share on the internet?
Thank you !!!

If colours look different between two colour managed applications such as LR and PS then you have either not calibrated your monitor at all or are using a corrupt monitor profile.
If the former you require a calibration device, such as a Spyder (lots of other around). If the second then re calibrate.
In the meantime you can set your monitor to use a colour space such as sRGB as a profile. This is not a solution, it is a temporary fix. Using a colour space as a monitor profile is not colour management, but will at least make the colour appear the same on your monitor.
There are some useful links concerning colour management and LR here you may wish to read.

Moving images from Lightroom to Photoshop 2014 CC – Color Problems?

For some reason, whenever I select "Edit in Photoshop 2014 CC", the image color is not only extremely different from what's displayed in Lightroom, it's dark and dull. However, if I export the image as a .jpg and then import it into Photoshop 2014 CC the color looks the same as what's displayed in Lightroom and this is with NO color correction.
Why is this happening and how should I be moving files between the two apps? BTW, I shot the images with a Canon T3i that saves the image as a CR2 and JPG.
Thanks!

I'm running Lightroom and Photoshop CS3. "Edit image in Photoshop CS3" works fine for me. I'm on an iMac and had Lightroom installed first, only thing I noticed is it takes PS a little longer to open up.

Color balance looks different going from lightroom to photoshop which is correct?

color balance looks different going from lightroom to photoshop which is correct?

Besides calibrating you rmonitor:
Make sure that in PS you have selected ProPhoto RGB as Working Space.
Go > Edit > Color Settings.
LR uses ProPhoto RGB and tht cannot be changed. So you have to make sure that PS uses the same Working Space.
WW

Pros and cons Lightroom vs Photoshop printing

Greetings,
I'm only recently learning the details of Lightrooms Printing module. And I really like it. In fact I have a workflow of saving a PS file in an Auto Import folder so I can use LRs Print module in place of PS CS6.
A couple of questions. In PS I can select Black Point Compensation. But I don't see that option in LR 4.X.
I like that LR remembers my printing preferences. I use an Epson 1900 and 2400. My workflow is to print a 4x6 proof first, then a 13x19". I've learned to turn off Printer Manages color, I like Relative Colormetry, and I like that I'me able to save this as a Preset or template.
What I like In PS is I can grab the image and resize or move on the page.
An issue I have with LR, maybe someone has a solution, is if I want to type in an exact print size. Example for a 12x18" I want it to be 12.1" (a bit of extra space for matting) That is easy to just type in in PS.
What I hate about PS, is it doesn't remember any of my settings, Meaning I am compelled to check through the printer driver and advance setting each time to be sure color management is off and the Epson driver didn't switch paper types.
Under the hood, is the LR and PS printing the same?
In LR I can select the output to be say 360 dpi. In PS it sends what ever resolution to the printer, sometimes 900 dpi. Is there much of a difference between LR resizing to a specific DPI prior to print, or having Epson ingest the full resolution to print?
Final question. When selecting a paper type. There are two places. Inside the Epson driver. Example Premium Glossy, and also in Lightroom or Photoshop after selecting PS manages color. So which over rides which? If the Epson driver is set to Presentation Matte, and in either App I select Premium Glossy, who wins the fight?
Thanks!
Max

A lot of questions.
I would recommend that you watch some of the printing tutorials on Adobe's website. See here (and scroll down to "Printing"): http://tv.adobe.com/show/learn-lightroom-4/
As for the printing from PS vs. Lr (and under the hood), see here: http://forums.adobe.com/message/5229670#5229670
Generally speaking, there is no difference in print quality between Lr and PS if all parameters are set correctly. So it comes down to the question of preference of workflow: Do you rather print from Lr or from PS?
Also, you will - within a short time - notice that Lr has become not only your main image editor but also your image managing tool. In this situation it's just simpler to print from Lr instead of doing the round trip to PS. Also, in PS one tends to create an image copy for each print size; in Lr you can just do it with Virtual Copies. Or you can create a <saved print> that is added to a collection. That means you don't fill up your hard drive with file copies.
Your Final question: The paper type and size has to be selected in your printer driver. You do this from Lr by clicking on <Page Setup> in the print Module. The dialog that comes up is not Lr but your printer dialog / driver.
Lr will then "accept" the paper size selected in the printer driver / dialog. In Lr there is a selection for <Media Type> (not "paper type"!). Select what you are using - this selection affects the output sharpening that Lr applies "behind the scene". Also select the appropriate printing profile in Lr. The <Print Adjustment> sliders are best left alone. They are not necessary if your monitor is calibrated and set to the correct intensity (brightness). Apart from that these two sliders don't give you any feedback in Lr, i.e. you don't see their effects in Lr - only on the print.

Printing: Lightroom and Photoshop

Ok...so today I tried to run my first print since getting lightroom. Quick run down on my color management (although I am still learning on this subject as well). My monitor is calibrated with an eye one display. My camera (Canon 300D) is set to AdobeRGB profile. I am running an Epson 2400, Ilford Smooth Pearl paper, with the profile provided from Ilford, and have it set to have the printer determine colors. And I am running Lightroom and Photoshop CS2.
I have been printing with this combonation beautifully for about a year now. I do have one small thing about my setup, even calibrated, my monitor is a little dark, so I must do a small curves adjustment on my final version to get the print to be perfect. I have accepted this (not the newest or best monitor) and just set an action to run before printing.
So, today, I tried to print from Lightroom. The print came out WAY too dark...I mean, my blue sky is a dark purple...odd. So I said, well I need this print, let me move it to photoshop, drop the curve and print from there. Well...the blue came out blue, but the image is still a little dark...I will play with the curve again to see if I can get it right. I don't have a problem with doing this for now, but I am wondering why the images are darker then they used to be, even in photoshop.
Also, can I create actions in Lightroom, something like develop presets that I can run AFTER I am done working on an image that we prep the document for print?
Sorry for the long post...thanks for any help...

So...you're using the canned profile from Ilford...and in Lightroom you've added that via "Other" correct? When you select that profile you are then using Lightroom color management and then you go into the Epson driver under Properties, Mode Custom and then select Off under Color Management, right? You've also selected the correct media that Ilford reccomends with the Pearl paper?
If you hit print from there than that should take care of it. Note however that if you change the page template, it _WILL_ change the print output settings making you update to the profile again.
So far, I get equal output results from Lightroom and Photoshop CS2/3 when using the same profile and printing under Mac or Win. So, if you are _NOT_ getting the same results, your settings are not equal-something somewhere is set incorrectly.

How to Get Proper Video Screen Captures (Screencasts) of Lightroom or Photoshop in Win?

Hello. I would like to get proper screen captures of Lightroom on Win 7/64, showing all screen elements as you see them. I tried FastStone Capture 8 and SnagIt 11.1, but they have various differing issues. Do you have a good hint?
In my screen capture, i want a mouse-click-sound each and every time the mouse is clicked. This is not "system audio", because the computer doesn't play a sound for every ordinary click. The capture software must add that sound. (I'm aware i can add the sound manually in post production, but want it recorded together with video.)
Experience with Faststone Capture 8's video captures:
I get well usable footage
Does optionally record mouse-click-sound for each click, with adjustable volume
Does not properly record some elements of Photoshop or Lightroom screens:
- cursors sometimes look rough or double-sized
- Lightrooms "TAT (Target Correction Tool)" disappears while being dragged on the image
- the color selector box of Lightroom's Adjustment Brush is not shown, while the cursor working within that color selector box is shown
- Lightroom's three-second-splash-message after Undo etc. is not shown
(All these missing elements do show up in *still* captures with Faststone Capture. They also *do* show up in video captures done with SnagIt.)
Experience with Snagit 11.1's video captures:
Does properly capture all those elements that FastStone does *not* capture (listed above)
Does *not* optionally include a mouse-click-sound for each and every mouse click (they record "system audio", but a sound on every click is not "system audio")
Videos are less smooth, cursor sometimes "jumping"
Now do you know a screen capture software for Win 7 that can
properly record *anything* that's seen within Lightroom and Photoshop
and automatically add a mouse-click-sound for each and every click i do
and produce smooth footage without "jumping cursors"?
Thanks for your real-life experiences!

Hi, thanks for your suggestions. Now i also tried:
Camstudio:
- mouse click sounds very weird (my mistake?), does NOT record LR overlays like adjustment brush's colour selector
Screen-cast-o-matic, optionally online, free:
- DOES record overlays like adjustment brush's colour selector. Mouse-click-sound not in free version. "System audio" is promised in paid version, but that does not necessarily mean a sound for each mouse-click. Contacted support for more
Straightforward using, lots of short video tutorials (useful for absolute beginners).
Free downloaded program 1.4 only works on primary monitor, the online launched app also records on secondary monitor
Don't see option to record a "window", only set resolutions
More "jumpy" than Faststone
More interesting pro-version seems to be rent-only-licenced, at 15 USD per year, not a one-time-buy
Camtasia:
DOES record overlays like adjustment brush's colour selector
.camrec format isn't offered for recording, only .trec and .avi (on Win 7)
Exported MP4 looks blurry and has colour blotches, that are not visible in the initial recording, only after exporting; this doesn't change at all after setting very high quality MP4 options; i guess i didn't look properly

Exporting from Lightroom to Photoshop and back to Lightroom shows different results in Lightroom than in Photoshop

I has set the color space to ProPhoto RGB in both Lightroom and Photoshop. I have also calibrated my monitor.
But when I export a photo from Lightroom to Photoshop and edit it there before saving it, the photo in Lightroom is very different than what the Photoshop edit shows.
Photoshop is to the left, Lightroom to the right.

Ask in the LR/ PS forums and provide details about your system, your files, your develop settings, other stuff. You need to be much more specific.
Mylenium

Having different color intensity in iPhoto from PSE4

I organize and stop my photos in iPhoto 06. I do my editing in Photoshop Elements 4. I notice when I bring my photos from PSE4 back into iPhoto the intensity of the colors is a lot lighter. In other words, when I view a photo in PSE4 the color intensity is deeper/richer. When I bring it back into iPhoto the photo looks almost blown out. When I print a photo from iPhoto it has that same blown out look. How do I get both applications to look the same?

Good catch. The workaround is obvious.
In order for Adobe to be sure to see the problem, you ought to post at the official bug site.
Hal

Laptop monitor choice for photo editing with lightroom and photoshop

Hi,
i'm going to buy a laptop, mostly for photo editing with lightroom and photoshop use.
I'm in trouble with the display choice.
One laptop has LG LP156WF4 or AUO B156HAN01 display, that should be very similar matte ips display with 55%-60% coverage of AdobeRGB. You can find a review in the "Display" section of these link : http://www.notebookcheck.net/Review-Clevo-W650SJ-Schenker-M504-Barebones-Notebook.114329.0 .html
The other laptop hasAU Optronics B156HW01 V.4 Matte 95%, that is a TN matte display with 95% coverage of AdobeRGB. You can find a review in these link (the display should be the green bar): http://www.anandtech.com/show/4649/mythlogic-pollux-1400-clevos-w150hr-tested/6
My question is: which one is better for photo editing with photoshop and lightroom?
Someone says that ips is better because of the fidelity of color reproduction, view angles and contrast.
Someone, on the other side, says that the TN 95% is better because of the gamut%.
Can you help me?
Thanks,
Marco Grechi

Macbook pro is out of budget
Hp assistance said that in italy they don't sell laptop with dreamcolor (i'll call again tomorrow to be sure ) but i think that it would be out of budget (max 2000 euro).
They said that the best solution for me is the zbook 15 g2 (2300 euro), but they DON'T know brand and model of the display and if i can have SSD + HD inside the zbook 15 g2.
The laptop with the lg panel costs 1500 euro. the question is; "i know that the lg display is not the best, but is it almost sufficient for my use?". In this way i may save 500/800 to buy a separated display later.
I have read that dell xps 15 and dell precision m3800 have great display, but they are glossy and very reflective. Is it a big handicap?
Do you know the 3k 15,6" display Panasonic VVX16T020G00 ? It should be a 8-bit display with 72%NTSC gamut ( http://www.panelook.com/VVX16T020G00_Panasonic_15.5_LCM_parameter_22014.html )
Do you sugget me a 3k display for photo editing?
Thanks

Color profiling in Lightroom

Hi,
I send my photos to a lab for printing. Is there a way to use their color profiles in Lightroom or do I have to go back to Photoshop to do this? And, if I adjust the photo using the labs color profile in Photoshop will Lightroom recognize it?
Thanks,
j.

You can "print" a color managed JPEG file out of Lightroom's print module and select any color profile on your system.(It's a handy way of utilizing the layout features in the print module while using your local lab) You can also select any color profile when exporting your file. The only place where color profiles are limited is the exchange between Lightroom and Photoshop. You can choose between the three most common color spaces at that point.
One other quick point, Lightroom is completely color managed. If your file is tagged with a valid ICC profile the application will respect and manage all of those details for you.
Regards,
Tom

Color intensity in lightroom vs. photoshop

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