Color management missing?

Hi working with Bridge CS2.
The only other Adobe program I have in the CS is InDesign...the rest are previous to the CS.
Can you still manage the color though even if you have Photoshop 7.0 or Illustrator 10.0?
I was wondering because my color management is not where it should be...I went under Adobe Help to follow these steps:
1. Open Bridge.
To open Bridge from another Creative Suite application, choose File > Browse from the application. To open Bridge directly, either choose Adobe Bridge from the Start menu (Windows) or double-click the Adobe Bridge icon (Mac OS).
2. Choose Edit > Creative Suite Color Settings.
3. Select a color setting from the list, and click Apply.
Can't seem to find number 2. This option is not under Edit. I think at the top drop down menu it is supposed to say Bridge Center............I don't have that option either.

I went to Edit>Prefs & I did not see a checkbox under Favorites for "Center" within the General tab..

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    Article ID: 723
    Created On: 10 Jan 2008 07:31 PM
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    Regards Denis
    Message was edited by: Denisimo
    Message was edited by: Denisimo

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    Both are Eizo monitors, a Flexscan 1731 and a Coloredge CG 221. Since I've replaced my CRT Barco monitor with the CG221, I've seen huge color differences between Photoshop and Safari.
    I finally realized the differences I see between Photoshop and Safari is that my working space is sRGB, while the monitor's profile (which it seems that Safari assigns to the web) is Adobe 1998. Since Eizo's CG221 has a larger gamut than the Barco monitor and my Flexscan S1731 (which are sRGB monitors), the drastic differences between Safari and Photoshop are more apparent on the CG221.
    Eizo's solution is to calibrate emulating the sRGB space, which is possible with Color Navigator. But this does not sound like the best solution for me. Why should I clip the monitor profile? This would mean the only way to see my monitor's full gamut is to re-calibrate.
    So now my question is, are there any browsers available with color management settings? It'd make sense if I could calibrate my monitor at it's full gamut and have a browser which converts to a working space instead of assigning the monitor profile, or which at least honors embedded profiles.
    I must also note Eizo's suggestion of recalibrating to the sRGB space seems incorrect, because even if I worked in Adobe 1998 most webpages would display incorrectly (except my own which would have images with Adobe 1998 embedded). Even when I view Apple's website colors appear oversaturated, especially in skin tones.
    Any help and feedback is highly appreciated.

    An interesting problem indeed. It sort of emphasizes the lack of color management on the WEB.
    The commonly recommended workaround, to calibrate all monitors to something close to sRGB is suddenly outdated when monitors can display a gamut outside of the sRGB range.
    To clarify your problem a bit.
    Safari uses the monitor color space as working space, always. This is not necessarily a problem, as long as images gets converted into the monitor color space when they are opened. However, this does not happen when the image does not have a color profile. Correct but inconvenient.
    In Photoshop you can choose the working space. Best is if the working space is the same as the target space. Thus, if you work with WEB publishing choose sRGB. If you work with printing choose your printers color space etc.
    But Photoshop will also have a problem if images does not have a color profile, unless the image has an EXIF tag, indicating that the image is in for instance sRGB color space. Photoshop is intelligent enough to understand this, because most digital cameras produce images without color profile but with the EXIF color space tag. In case there is no color profile, and no EXIF color space tag, Photoshop will, depending on your color preference settings, ask you to assign a colorspace or automatically assign working space, which could be whatever.
    There are possible solutions to your problem.
    1. If you publish WEB sites and want to browse them correctly, using your very expensive monitor without lobotomizing it's capabilities. Use Safari or other color managed browser and follow the two rules of image publishing for the WEB
    Rule 1) Images on the web should be published in sRGB color space (otherwise they will not be displayed correctly in browsers on the MS-Windows platforms, with the exception of Safari, viewing images with a color profile)
    Rule 2) Images should have a color profile, in particular the sRGB images (otherwise they will not be displayed correctly on the MacOS platforms. Maybe close to correct if you have calibrated your monitor to PC-gamma)
    For a test, go to http://www.gballard.net/psd/golive_pageprofile/embeddedJPEGprofiles.html
    2) If you want to browse WEB sites, created by people who did not follow the second rule, that is most WEB-sites, and by the way, includes parts of the Apple WEB site.
    Do the following: In Safari, Safari Menu/Report Bugs to Apple - include the following statement.
    Dear Safari development team. Most WEB sites on the internet does not display properly in Safari, due to the fact that most WEB publishers are unaware of that they should include color profiles in their images. Today, Safari effectively disables color management when the color profile is missing, a correct but not very practical approach. In reality, most images published on the WEB are in fact sRGB or close to that but without a color profile. In order to enhance the WEB experience for the vast community of Safari users, could you PLEASE include at least the option in Safari, to "Assume sRGB for WEB colors". Since Safari is already color managed, it should mean only a few lines of code in the Safari application.
    I did this, but probably we need a lot of users to complain before it gets fixed. It has been like this for ever, but I really expected it to be fixed in Safari 3.
    See also http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=5204498&#5204498 and http://www.tomasjonsson.eu for more information
    Tomas

  • Color Management Confusion-Photoshop and monitors

    Ok, so I am asking this question because I am literally at my wits end with this color management stuff. I have become so confused in the past few days that I can’t even think straight. Anyway, I am hoping you all can help me “understand” how it all work. Let me start with some background information (since I know it will probably be asked)
    am a photographer, I utilize Lightroom 4 and CS3 (I know its old but I am planning on getting CS6 soon).
    put my pictures on the web that I will assume will be viewed on multiple different browsers.
    also will be sending my pictures to print at mpix or whcc. I may decide to print my own but haven’t really made that determination at this point.
    have a mac book pro that I work from.
    Ok, so I need to get a monitor to work with but I am unsure if I should just buy the thunderbolt mac monitor or get a wide gamut monitor. I have heard so many people say that the wide gamut monitors just messed them up. Also, I am bit confused on the nature of monitor profiles and how they work with photoshop and lightroom. I would assume the monitor applies a profile at all times? I also don’t understand the existence of the prophoto and wide gamut profiles for the mac monitors… they clearly are not wide-gamut monitors, so how do these profiles exist for them, and why would they be useful (if you set the profile to prophoto for example, it is all washed out as expected). Are these profiles “assigning” a profile to the color? I am assuming so because if they were converting them to just a standard rgb then you wouldn’t have the faded colors (correct?).
    I just am so nervous that I am going to create something that looks great in Lightroom or Photoshop but that looks awful on the browser, or worse, on a different monitor (standard monitor) and I would have no idea that it looked bad. Or, if I send something to a printer only to get a mess back.
    Also, please let me know if I correct in this. If I am in photoshop and I have an untagged image (send via a friend), and lets just say it is really a prophoto image (although my friend didn’t tell me) and I say to assign the prophoto profile (upon import to photoshop). If that truly is the correct profile, the image should look correct. Now consider two scenarios from there: 1) I embed that profile in the image, if I upload that to the web (I know to be cautious, you should always use srgb for web), if the person has a color managed browser, the image would properly appear, because the browser would recognize the profile (in this case “prophoto”) and convert it to whatever it needed to be. But, if it was not a color managed browser, I run the risk that the web browser will just assign a profile, which will wash the photo out most likely, correct? Ok… and scenario 2) after I get the image from my friend and assign the prophoto profile (since that is the correct profile the image was actually created in, although it was untagged when it was sent to me), the image will look correct… BUT, is photoshop displaying the prophoto profile, or is it converting to RGB for my viewing, or is my monitor converting it to rgb for my viewing? I guess I just don’t understand how the monitor fits into all of this. You HAVE to use your monitor to see your images, and since most monitors (including my current one are standard gamut) it would make sense that you actually can’t see anything in the prophoto profile, and you are truly looking at an srgb profile since that is all your monitor can display.
    Oh ya, and what benefit is the color match rgb? It seems everyone speaks of the srgb, prophoto, and argb.. but never some of the others.. so maybe I am just lost. I would even appreciate a link to some tutorials if you think those would be helpful.
    I am seriously confused.. I would really appreciate the help.

    I am not surprised you are confused about colour management because its a confusing subject. Luckily you own a Mac so you can get to grips with what the problems that colour management solves using the "colorSync Utility" and you will find this in Applications >> Utilities >> colorSync Utility. If you own a windows computer then I am sorry but you will be out of luck here and you should know better when you buy your next computer!! I am not sure why Apple gave us this application but it is really useful and all will help you understand Color Management.
    1. Launch Applications >> Utilities >> ColorSync Utility.
    2. You will see a list of "Installed ColorSync Profiles". Choose Adobe RGB 1998 which I hope you have chosen in you camera preferences.
    3.You will see a 3D representation of the Adobe 1998 Colour space. This represents all the colors this colour space will hold.
    4. Top left hand corner you will see a little arrow pointing down next to "Lab Plot". Click on this and a drop down menu will appear.
        Choose "Hold For Comparison"
    5. Now somewhere in the "Installed ColorSync Profiles" list you will find the profile for you monitor. Choose this.
    6. You will now see a new colour space inside the Adobe 1998 Colour space. If you have a cheap monitor the colour space will be small
    inside the Adobe 1998 profile. This means that you monitor cannot show you all the colors that are missing.
    7. Now choose a printer profile say, if you use them a profile for an Epson paper or any printer profile you have and you will see another profile in the Adobe 1998 box which shows you the only colors that your printer can print. If you like choose your monitor profile then hold for comparison then the printer profile and it will clearly show the mis match between you monitor and printer.
    8. Now choose SRGB and this will show you what colors a person using an average Windows monitor can see, poor people.
    So this is the problem, all devises can reproduce only a certain range of colors. The adobe 1998 profile does not show all the colors our eyes can see " choose Generic Lab" profile, then "hold for comparison" then Adobe 1998 and you will see Adobe 1998 is a small profile but is a good average of our collective colour vision.
    So how to solve all these missing colour problems. Well if you think of each devise, including you camera as speaking a different language from you monitor and printer then it is easy to understand that you need some sort of translator so that they all know exactly what colour is being talked bout pixel by pixel in an image. This is held in the ICC profile, but an ICC profile has o do more than this.
    Say you camera can produce a specific red we will call for demo purposes "001" and your monitor cannot produce it, how do you solve this? Well it is very easy to fool our eyes. Our eyes work by comparison so if the profile maps red "001 to the nearest red that the monitor can show and then proportionally remaps all other reds to fit within the reds the monitor can show us then we actually think we are seeing a full range of reds. The problem comes if we use the wrong profile for this. The red 001 could be re mapped anywhere and could be outside what the monitor can show. Say that happens but the printer can reproduce that red 001. We would see an image on the monitor with not many reds and when we printed it we would be shocked to find reds on the print. Worst, we would see an image on the monitor without reds and would correct for this and end up with a print with heavy reds and would not be able to work out why.
    So to solve this we should:
    1. use the correct camera profile when we are opening "Raw" files.
    2. Make sure you have the correct monitor ICC profile selected in "System Preferences" >> Displays.
    3. In photoshop we should make sure that the " Edit >> colour settings " are set to Adobe 1998 for RGB.
    4. If you are going to print you own photo in Photoshop go to "View >> Proof Setup >> Custom" and a box will
    open. Choose the profile of your printer and paper and choose "Perceptual" for rendering intent and then " OK". If you cannot find
    a profile for you printer and paper go to the printer of paper manufactures web site and download the profiles and instal
    them.
    5. You can now adjust the colors and contrast and photoshop will simulate how the output devise will deal with this. If you
    are using an outside printing house, they will supply you with their ICC profile to download so just follow the same procedure and
    choose their ICC profile and and do you colour correction.
    If you have a cheap monitor you will still not get a 100% result but you will get closer. You really need a monitor that you can  calibrate
    regularly because generic ICC profiles are just that. They are made from the results of many monitors and so are 90% or worse accurate.
    If you want to see a flag ship monitor at work go to http://www.eizo.com/global/support/db/products/software/CG223W#tab02 and go
    to the bottom of the page and download the Eizo Coloredge CG223W monitor profile, instal it on your mac then open then ope
    Launch Applications >> Utilities >> ColorSync Utility choose Adobe 1998 the hold and compare it with the  Eizo Coloredge CG223W
    profile. This is not the top of the range Eizo monitors that we use but you will see that this monitor will show most of the missing colour you monitor does not. This is actually a good tip if you are buying a monitor. Download the monitors profile and see how good it really is.
    The weak link still is printing. The colors you see in RGB on a back lit RGB screen are very hard to reproduce by CYMK inks on paper. Here you really should have a profile made for your printer and chosen paper. If you don't want the expense of buying a calibrator and doing it yourself, there are on line services that will do this for you.
    One final point you must remember. If you are using soft proofing in Photoshop ( "View >> Proof Setup >> Custom" as explained above), when you print you MUST choose in "Colour Handling" "Photoshop Manages Colour" and in the next step when the printing box appears
    you will see a drop down box with "Layout" in it. Click on this and choose "Colour Management and choose "Off No Colour Management". If you do not do this Photoshop will manage the colour then the printer will do it again and the print will be a disaster.
    This is a starting point really. Colour management is difficult but just try to remember that you need a translator between each step in the process to make it work so you have to make sure the correct profiles are being used by you camera, the program you use for opening the Raw photo files (Please don't use jpegs straight from the camera, but thats another subject), the correct monitor profile and output profile. If you don't check these it is like chinese whispers and your picture will be printed in Double Dutch!!.
    Hope that helps. I am on location In Italy for a couple of months so will be unlikely to be able to reply to any questions for a while. Will try to check back and see how you are getting on. Drop me a line at [email protected] if you have any questions. Good luck.
    Paul Williams

  • How do I shut off Color Management

    Hi everyone,
    I am using Indesign cs3. My book printer needs Color Management shut off. Also I am having problems
    making a Postscript file that I then need to run through Distiller. In the Postscript settings I can't save it to file.
    Thank you
    Jan

    Rebekkah Angel wrote:
    Edit>>>color settings>>>
    and I can turn color management off in InDesign -
    Am I mistaken?
    This doesn't really turn off color management. It preserves all incoming numbers and interprets them as if they are in the current working space instead of reading any embedded profiles.
    I suppose one could do that to satisfy the ridiuclous printer specification, but you'd be extremely foolish to do so. The printer's RIP has no idea what color settings you've used nor what your missing and mismatched profile policies might have been. It sees only the numbers you have in the PDF. Problems sometimes arise when ICC profiles are embedded in the PDF and the printer uses a differnt output space, resulting in color conversions in the RIP. First, the printer can no longer point to your file and say "these are the numbers you provided and that's what we printed" when they screw up the color, and second, 100% K can be converted to rich black which would be a nightmare, if not a complete disaster, under many circumstances.
    What should be specified is that no profiles be embedded (and in fact that's what happens with PDF/X-1a compliant files, as well as with most of the other presets) so that all colors are presumed to be in the correct color space. This is not a problem if the correct color space is known and used as the desination during export. Badly presented specs, such as those at Lightning Source, and failure to provide adequate profile information to properly use color mangement is the problem, not the use of color management itself.

  • Color management hell?

    I could use some help here if any are willing.
    Here's the basic problem. I open (import) a TIFF or RAW image in Lightroom, it has a nice blue-purple (stormy) sky. I export it with sRGB color space as a JPEG and open it in IE or Windows Picture and FAX Viewer and my sky is no longer blue-purple, but a much more plain blue. No, not washed out ala Adobe RGB in sRGB space, but more of a color shift in the blue-purple arena.
    If I in turn open the JPEG in Photoshop, who's working color space is sRGB, it has the nice blue-purple sky back. Same thing with Firefox with color management on. Here's the JPEG BTW:
    http://pics.boinkphoto.com/photos/420737399_UNBiS-O.jpg
    Some people I've asked (on DPReview) see it as just blue, some see at the blue-purple if they use a color managed app. My wife's color corrected laptop sees it as just blue under IE.
    Ok, so I do my work on a Dell 9300 laptop. The screen has been color corrected using a Spyder 2 to 2.2 gamma and 6500k. My Windows "Color Management" is set to the profile generated by the Spyder. Again inside color corrected apps I see blue-purple, outside just blue. Note also this example image started out as Wide Gamut RGB from a scanner, though I have seen similar from RAW files. It's almost always in the blues and purples - the other colors don't shift (at least much).
    I display most of my work on the web. Ideally I'd like the people on the web, most who have no color correction, to see the nice blue-purple (in short I want them to see what I see in Lightroom/Photoshop). Ideally I don't want to "dull down" my Lightroom/Photoshop to match the unmanaged (plain blue), I want to save my images compensated so they won't get dulled down (so they're saved as blue-purple).
    So, what, if you are feeling kind enough to answer, should I be setting my color management settings to? I know no two monitors are alike, but how can I make it so the vast majority of people opening my JPEG see close to the same thing I see in Lightroom?
    Or perhaps, more directly, what am I missing???
    Thanks in advance!
    PS: I ran into something that implies it might be related to this:
    http://www.brucelindbloom.com/index.html?MunsellCalcHelp.html#BluePurple
    But I'm not sure how it applies or how to fix it...

    >So, what, if you are feeling kind enough to answer, should I be setting my color management settings to? I know no two monitors are alike, but how can I make it so the vast majority of people opening my JPEG see the exact same thing I see in Lightroom?
    The unsatisfactory answer is that you can't. If you export to sRGB, the average person should see what you see, however very few will actually since very few people color manage and even fewer calibrate. What people see should cluster around what you see more or less.
    The reason behind the difference you note above is that most LCD screens have a blue primary very different from the sRGB primary. The latter being developed to describe a typical CRT monitor. This difference will shift all blue tints considerably when people do not color manage. and in often unpredictable ways. Some blues will turn purple, while some purples will turn blue. There is a way around it, but you should realize that it will make the situation worse for many people seeing your image. It is described
    in this webpage. I highly disagree with many of his statements, but the method will work for your issue. Note that this is generally considered heresy (as it is by me), and as I said for many people you'll shift the color too far. In the end, the only thing you can do is live with the fact that people on uncalibrated monitors and using no color management will see something quite different from you.

  • Iphoto books -- color management & sharpening

    I have recently decided to try to print photos from a trip to New Zealand as an Apple iPhoto photo book. (I am using the latest version of iPhoto 6.XXXX.) I have a few basic questions that I'm having a hard time confirming answers to: (1) I read on a discussion forum somewhere (not sure where) that iphoto photo books are color managed to sRGB color space. Can anyone confirm this? (2) To keep my photos in sRGB, I am saving them from Photoshop as sRGB files. When I import the images into iPhoto to make a photo book, I am pointing to them only, rather than having the files recopied into the iPhoto database (save space on my hard drive). I assume this should work to preserve sRGB color space? (3) I do not plan on making any edits of photos in iPhoto itself, although some will presumably be resized by the program given that they will exceed 300 dpi. (4) For sharpening, I plan on saving all my files at 300 dpi and sharpening based on an 11" print. (I'm going to print an 8 1/2" x 11" book.) For photos that are smaller than full page size (i.e., 2 or more photos per page), I assume they'll get downsized in iPhoto, so sharpening won't be perfectly maximized, but this should work pretty well, I hope? Any other suggestions/tips about a work flow? I looked at Amazon for an instruction book on iphoto but the only one I found (the "missing manual" by pogue), only has part of a chapter devoted to iphoto books. If someone tells me that this book, or another, will answer all of these types of questions, I'll buy it. Oh yeah, one more question, is there different quality paper used in the single side photo books vs. double sided photo books (both hardcover). From what I could tell, the single sided paper must be thicker because it permits less photos per page. Any other differences? Thanks in advance, Howard

    Howard:
    Welcome to the Apple Discussions. Apple does prefer the sRGB color space. As far as dpi, just provide the largest pixel dimension file possible. If you want the files to fit the frames in each page exactly the crop to the 4:3 ratio beforehand. However, you can use non 4:3 files. If one is added to a frame it will be scaled to fill the frame, losing some of the image on the larger side. To get the entire photo in the frame Control-click on it and select the Fit photo to frame option.
    I believe the same paper is used for single or double sided. Here's what Apple sent me regarding book materials and quality:
    I contacted Apple and asked for information that I could pass on. Here's the reply I received from Apple:
    Thank you for contacting the Apple Print Products Customer Service.
    I understand that you would like to know the printing process that is used and the color mode the files should be in, so you can better advise users in the iPhoto forum.
    iPhoto version 4 or later, allows you to import and print files through the Apple Print Product service as RGB, grayscale, or CMYK color space. JPEG files with RGB color space are recommended for best results.
    While iPhoto 2 can import files of various formats, including RGB color, grayscale, and CMYK, this version requires JPEG files with RGB color space when printing photos and books.
    For more information regarding iPhoto 2, please visit the following article:
    iPhoto: Color, Black and White Prints Appear Garbled or Distorted
    For more information regarding iPhoto 5, please visit the following article:
    http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=165501
    Here are some of the technical specifications for the books, cards, and calendars. I hope this gives you an idea about their quality and form.
    BOOKS
    All iPhoto books are printed using acid-free paper for long-lasting image quality. The photos are printed at a high resolution (300DPI if you use iPhoto 6). There is no external modification--such as sharpening or contrast adjustment--of the photos; what you see in the application is what is printed in the book.
    Hardcovers Books
    The cover is hard-bound and covered in linen. You select the linen color during the book-ordering process. The hardcover books have a solid, stiff binding that is glued and crimped. The internal pages, measuring 8.5 x 11 inches, are printed on McCoy 100# Text Gloss paper stock.
    Softcover Books
    The softcover books come in three sizes:
    - Large 8.5 x 11 inches
    - Medium 6 x 8 inches
    - Small 2.6 x 3.5 inches
    All of the softcover books have internal pages that are printed on McCoy 100# Text Gloss paper stock. The large softcover book has a white cover (Kromekoteplus Folding Cover, 16 point) with a cutout on the front that reveals the cover-page photo in the book. The covers for the medium and small softcover books have the cover image and title printed directly on the cover. All of the softcover books have a glued binding and feature a thick cover of McCoy 100# Cover Gloss paper stock.
    CARDS
    All cards are printed on McCoy 120# Silk Cover paper stock. The postcards measure 4 x 6 inches, and the greeting cards measure 5 x 7inches.
    CALENDARS
    All calendars measure 8 x 10 inches and are printed on McCoy 100# Silk Cover paper stock.
    To ensure the best print quality, we have chosen to use Kodak NexPress technology. The press uses a dry toner, which is fused to the surface of the paper. Please see NexPress' site for more information:
    KODAK NEXPRESS 2500 Digital Production Color Press
    I hope you find this information helpful in answering questions on the iPhoto forum.
    Do you Twango?
    TIP: For insurance against the iPhoto database corruption that many users have experienced I recommend making a backup copy of the Library6.iPhoto database file and keep it current. If problems crop up where iPhoto suddenly can't see any photos or thinks there are no photos in the library, replacing the working Library6.iPhoto file with the backup will often get the library back. By keeping it current I mean backup after each import and/or any serious editing or work on books, slideshows, calendars, cards, etc. That insures that if a problem pops up and you do need to replace the database file, you'll retain all those efforts. It doesn't take long to make the backup and it's good insurance.
    I've written an Automator workflow application (requires Tiger), iPhoto dB File Backup, that will copy the selected Library6.iPhoto file from your iPhoto Library folder to the Pictures folder, replacing any previous version of it. You can download it at Toad's Cellar. Be sure to read the Read Me pdf file.

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