Colorsync calibration problems

I have a problem with colour mismatch between Photoshop CS6 and OSX native apps such as Mail and Preview. If I calibrate my monitor (a Dell U2711) using a hardware calibrator (colormunki) and set this as the monitor profile in System Prefs the colours of images don't match when viewed in Photoshop and Preview*. They are way off, perticularly in saturation and shadows.
However if I do a manual calibration by eyeball alone with Apple's built in calibration software and use this profile in System Pref, then the colours match much more closely. Not perfect but better than using the hardware calibrator.
Now, I don't know what is going on here because the reverse should be true. I also get duplicate colour profiels in the Display Profile list in Systems Prefs.
Something seems screwy.
(* Photoshop is set up using the defauls European Prepress 3 settings and when I save out a Jepg to view in Preview for example I embed the profile. The monitor itself is set to sRGB colour space, which is what the Euro preset is also)

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Colorsync utility problems

I'm trying to get my printing straightened out on a 10.4.11 system that has been updated from 10.3.9.
Printing was perfect on 10.3.9, but is not good from the Adobe apps on 10.4.11. I put off upgrading to 10.4 as long as I could, because I knew so many folks had so many issues... I finally had to upgrade, and now I am hit.
My printer is an epson R2400. Prints are as expected from a MacBook Pro that has never been upgraded from one system to the next, and also from a test installation of 10.4.11 on a brand new hard drive. It is only the upgraded (via archive and install) system that I can't get straightened out.
Chromix is making some custom profiles for me, and they had me go into colorsync utility to assign Generic RGB as the default profile for the printer. Problem is, the R2400 is listed 3 separate times in Colorsync utility, although it is only listed once in Printer SetUp utility and in System preferences under printing and fax.
Resetting the printing system doesn't clear this up, nor does uninstalling the driver and reinstalling.
I don't know for certain that this is the cause of my color management issues, but it certainly does not seem desirable. The systems on the machines that print correctly do not have duplicate instances of the printer listed in colorsync utility.
I am not able to set a default printer in Colorsync utility, presumably due to this problem. This is the only printer installed, and it is listed as default the other 2 places.
An archive and install did not fix the issue.
Any idea on how to clear this up short of totally starting over with a fresh installation, from scratch? the printers are listed with unique ID's in Colorsync utility, but I don't know how to run anything down from there.

I am not printing with colorsync color management, rather I am using colorsync *utilty* to correct a misapplied color profile in the driver.
This is documented a few places on the web, and it is Chromix's answer to incorrect prints from ALL the Adobe applications... in my case, PS 7, and ALL CS2 and CS3 suite applications. Very specifically, the print error happens with Photoshop 7 and CS2 and CS3, and Illustrator CS2 and CS3, and InDesign CS2 and CS3. The solutions it to be certain that in your print stream, when you check the details of how the print is being sent, that colorsync is set to standard conversion, generic RGB profile, no quartz filter. The way you typically mange this, if the wrong RGB profile is showing, is by resetting it in ColorSync utility.
I am printing a a profiling target, so I am not setting up a conversion from source space to print space. I am sending with color management off.
The reason I didn't mention my workflow settings is that is not the question. The question is how to get rid of the spare printer instances in colorsync utility, becasue i think they are hosing my otherwise correct color settings.
My target print looks like it is being color managed incorrectly, even though all color management is disabled in the Photoshop print dialog and in the print driver. The colors are the correct hue, but they are much too dark.
Chromix has a little application you can print the targets from. Photoshop (all versions) on the system with the colorSync utility problem prints the target too dark compared to the Chromix utility, or to Photoshop on two other systems I have with no colorSync utility duplication of printers.
Again, I am not looking for help with my printing workflow, because that is not the question or problem. My prints are correct on other systems with the same version of software and the same print settings, as long as I can make the needed correction in Colorsync utility first.
the question is how to reset colorsync utility, or otherwise troubleshoot the erroneous feedback it is giving me..

ColorSync "beep" problem solved

Hello Forum,
Like many others I couldn't change the colorsync screen profile. All I got was a beep in the pref pane. I couldn't switch and I couldn't make a new calibrated profile.
This is how I solved it.
I logged in as Root user, renamed the Preferences folder in my user Home Library to "Preferences(original)", logged out as Root user and logged in my regular user account.
Then a completely new and fresh Prefs folder is created.
I logged out my user account, logged in again as Root user, selected all prefs inside the "Preferences(original)" folder and put them into the new and fresh Preferences folder.
By doing so I also replaced all new made prefs by the ones that where in the original folder. After logging out as Root, and logging in my regular account the problem was solved.
I hope this info is of some use for people with the same problem.
Regards Wim.
PS, repairing priveleges and a disk check didn't solve the problem, I tried it first without luck.

There was a problem?
I'm glad things are back to normal for you. Please post back if you encounter any other issues.
- If my response has helped you, please click "Options" beside my post and mark it as solved. Clicking the "thumbs up" icon near the bottom of my response would also be appreciated.

IDVD 3 calibration problems when burning

Help! I'm having calibration error messages when burning iDVD-R discs in iDVD 3. I've had success in the past with Maxell DVD-R 8X discs but other brands and other speeds won't work. I can't find Maxell DVD-R 8X discs anymore. Do I need to update the iDVD software? I'm at a loss to figure this one out.
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hi sue,
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Pictures too dark - not a monitor calibration problem

I believe this is some kind of color space or EXIF data issue I'm having. The jist of it is this: if I view one of my pictures (they're in jpg format) in Windows Explorer, they look fine. But when Lightroom opens the picture or displays it in the library, it looks too dark. (Important note: this is not a monitor calibration issue. Searching on Google reveals tons of advice along these lines, but that's not what's happening here. Lightroom is simply displaying things differently than anything else.)
Photoshop had this problem also, but Adobe supplied a patch that made Photoshop ignore the color space EXIF data so my pictures would display "correctly". There does not seem to be any such equivalent fix for Lightroom. I'm using Windows XP - perhaps there's something I can do in the OS to fix this issue? I believe most of my pictures are sRGB.
How do I get Lightroom to display my pictures correctly? They are, of course, impossible to edit while they display like this. Thanks in advance for any help!

Thanks for the responses. I freely admit I don't understand color management. I also admit I have not calibrated my monitor. I know, therefore, that my colors are not perfectly synchronized across all my devices - and I'm fine with that for the moment, because they are close enough. What comes out of my camera, what is displayed on my monitor, and what comes out of my printer are all pretty close. I will calibrate soon and get even closer, but for now perfect color isn't my chief concern.
My problem is not that the colors don't match, it's that the pictures are too dark when displayed in Lightroom. By "too dark", I mean several stops of exposure too dark. A picture will display a certain way on my camera and in Windows, and the histogram reflects this. Then I load it into Lightroom, and while the histogram looks the same of course, the picture itself is being displayed like I took it at night. Hence, as far as I can tell, it's not a monitor calibration issue. If I were to calibrate the monitor to display the pictures in Lightroom correctly, everything else would look too bright, wouldn't it? Including Lightroom itself. Besides, it wouldn't be possible to brighten my monitor to the point that the pictures looked acceptable - that's how dark they are.
Here's another clue: if I'm at work, and I RDP to my PC at home, and open Lightroom in the RDP session, everything looks great. So, I'm thinking it's a Windows color space issue of some kind. The question is, since I admit I don't know much about color space, what might be the problem and how might I fix it?
So to summarize: incorrect color calibration isn't my problem (though I know it's something I have to do if I ever want to perfectly match output on my monitor and printer). The colors across all my devices are close enough for my purposes. Incorrect color isn't my problem at all. The problem is that Lightroom on my PC displays pictures as if most of the histogram was on the left, even when that's not the case. The pictures in Lightroom look nothing like they look on my camera, in Windows Explorer, or when printed on my printer. Why is that, and what can I do to fix it? Thanks.

Questions re: calibrating a Thunderbolt and calibration problems

Is it considered "Normal" or "Wide" gamut?
Is the backlight "White LED", "RGB LED" or something else?
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I am trying to calibrate with a spyder4 elite and the included software. Maybe I have just grown accoustomed to looking at a display that's too blue but it looks way to oragne/yellow/red to me (too warm) even though spyder says it's calibrated. The calibration they came up with is only good for sRGB and I don't remember an option to use Adobe RGB but that's where I'm workign most. The graph for Adobe RGB and NTSC looks terrible.
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Color calibration problems on mac pro

I have a bunch of quicktimes I captured via firewire from a 1200a deck. These quicktimes I converted to Quicktime PNG via compressor so they could be opened on a PC as well. When I open the exact same quicktime file on PC it appears much brighter than when I open it on my Mac. And I dont just mean it appears brighter to the eye, but when I hover my mouse cursor over pixels the values are much brighter (I tested this in aftereffects on both machines).
The PNG and DVCPROHD quicktimes give the exact same values on my mac (unsurprisingly), and when I view them in aftereffects or FCP they look quite dark (much darker than what I saw at the shoot). But when I view them in quicktime player they look brighter - just like how they look on PC (normally exposed). BUT when I do a screen grab using CMDCTRL+SHIFT4, and open the grab in photoshop, it looks much darker again! with the darker values!
Both PC and Mac monitors are calibrated with the eyeone Display 2 - but I dont think that is really the problem, because the actual pixel values I'm reading with aftereffects or photoshop are much darker on the mac! I have a feeling that the values the mac is giving are wrong, because everything looks really underexposed, the blacks are completely crushed etc... but I'm sure on the shoot there was much more detail in the blacks and everything was exposed properly.
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Hi memosan-
I completely understand. My experience is with medical imaging, where each monitor is absolutely required to match the other. Please step back and look at the bigger picture.
You are making the leap of faith that the way each system interprets pixel values is based upon the identical math, which it cannot possibly be. Each system will do what I thinks it needs to do to display a certain pixel value based on your calibration to a desired result.
When you think of displaying the image, you must think about what happens after the data is read off of the storage device and assigned to the graphics system and prepared for display. Up until that very instant the data is identical. What happens next will determine where those white values start differentiating.
When you calibrate a monitor you essentially build a table within your system that the graphics card uses to calculate a specific value to display based on the capabilities of that particular system. Even with identical systems those numbers will be different system to system. Maximum white will equal one number, maximum black another and so on.
When you read a pixel value it is based upon the math that the system is doing in order to display the image that you have requested.
If any part of the system is different, the math that it must do to obtain a particular pixel value will be radically different than the next system. If the temperature gradients are not the same, or if the actual pixel depth of one monitor is 10 bits and another 12, or if they cannot display the same black value the results will all be the same in that pixel values will be different, sometimes very radically.
The only way to actually demonstrate this is for you to use the same NTSC or PAL monitor, matching bit depth cards in each system, calibrate each system to that monitor without adjusting the monitor, then display the same image from the same file and see what the values read. My experience would tell me that only then will you be able to get numbers that are close.
This has everything to do with the monitor displays and your calibration and your different systems.
Luck-
-DaddyPaycheck

MacBook Pro (Late 2011) calibration problem

Hi,
I have tried to calibrate the monitor of my MacBook Pro (Late 2011, Mountain Lion OS) with the Spyder4Express, but the monitor has a yellow cast after the calibration. I've verified the yellow cast by comparing my monitor with other calibrated monitors and with some photos printed with calibrated printers. Moreover, I have calibrated the monitor of another MacBook Pro with the same Spyder4Express and the result is different from mine, i.e. the same photo is displayed with different tones on the two monitors of the two MacBooks.
As calibration parameters of the Spyder4Express I have selected
Gamut = Normal Gamut
Backlight = White LED
and set LCD Native flag in the Preferences Panel.
Any suggestions to solve this issue? I suspect that the graphic accelerator (Intel HD 3000) of my MacBook Pro doesn't support the calibration. Someone else had the same problem?
Regards,
Luigi

Hi,
I have tried to calibrate the monitor of my MacBook Pro (Late 2011, Mountain Lion OS) with the Spyder4Express, but the monitor has a yellow cast after the calibration. I've verified the yellow cast by comparing my monitor with other calibrated monitors and with some photos printed with calibrated printers. Moreover, I have calibrated the monitor of another MacBook Pro with the same Spyder4Express and the result is different from mine, i.e. the same photo is displayed with different tones on the two monitors of the two MacBooks.
As calibration parameters of the Spyder4Express I have selected
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and set LCD Native flag in the Preferences Panel.
Any suggestions to solve this issue? I suspect that the graphic accelerator (Intel HD 3000) of my MacBook Pro doesn't support the calibration. Someone else had the same problem?
Regards,
Luigi

How to fix calibration problems?

I have troubles on the calibration of my Iphone 5. Can please someone help me fix this?
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Basic troubleshooting from the Users Guide is reset, restart, restore (first from backup then as new). Try each of these in order until the issue is resolved.

10-Bit color calibration problem

I have the following setup:
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Dual ATI FirePro v7800 (FIreGL) display adapters
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Win 7 Pro 64-bit
Spyder3Elite 4.0.2
When I enable 10-bit color in the ATI drivers, and use the Spyder 3 package to perform
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If I do have a true 10-bit pipeline, what can I do to run in that mode and have well calibrated monitors?
I contacted integrated color, as they have software that will work with my Spyder 3 sensor and they
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mode. Does that ring true?
Thanks in advance,
Andrew

It should also be noted here that banding is potentially a bigger problem with wide gamut, since the values are farther apart. So while 10 bit is perhaps not strictly needed, it has become more desirable.
I see clear banding on that test image, on my wide gamut/8 bit Eizo S2243.
If in-monitor calibration makes it a good match to Adobe RGB 1998, and in the context of an 8 bits/channel color pipeline, then no calibration or profile-based transform would be required when you edit in the Adobe RGB 1998 color space.
This is where I still don't agree (but we probably shouldn't go there again ) I concede that my previous position was a bit...ah, inflexible. Mainly that's because I've since realized that there are many variables that need to be brought under strict control before you can make any claims to accuracy.
So let's just say it's about peace of mind. There are many unknowns in the equation above, and it seems to me the best approach is to pin down as many as you can.
As I write this, I'm on my way to look at proofs for a book I've supplied 80% of the photographs for. I've done what I can, I have peace of mind, and still...

Mouse calibration problem in Photoshop

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In case you work in CS4 (which you omit to mention):
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I feel your PAIN!!. Please read my rant to CL TS: Blows!! Creative Tech Support NG Sucks!! on 0/9
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I need help with a color calibration problem on my PhotoSmart D7360 please.

In a nutshell...The solution that HP gives for correcting a red tint when printing grey colors is to go to the toolbox and hit calibrate colors. I don't have a 'calibrate colors' option in my toolbox.
The problem I'm trying to fix. The PS D7360 has started printing greys with a red tint from my Photoshop CS5. It was working fine and then just started having this problem. I have installed the newest device drivers. Then I have uninstalled & reinstalled the printer and the newest drivers. I clicked on factory settings but it didn't do anything. I've tried both printer managed colors and photoshop managed colors. I'm wasting paper, time, money and getting a headache! I just don't know what else to do. I'm using Windows Vista(x64)

Thank you for asking. I have plenty of ink. I've printed several test pages before and after the image I'm trying to print and the solid colors are fine.

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I have brand new T520 42424FG, i installed color by PANTONE software when i want to launch the program it says "error trying to connect to measurement device"
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Hi trd2020
PANTONE Software requires built-in colour calibrator, which is available in some W-series ThinkPad only.
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Colorsync calibration problems

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