Colour Calibration / White Point setting - Is Imac Display really professional quality

I am trying to calibrate my imac 27" using i1 Display2 calibration software. I am trying to set a traget of 6500 using the software but it advises the current is only 5600 and suggests moving the RGB sliders to get this current white point up to my 6500 target. Unfortunatly i have no idea where i find these sliders on my imac. Can anyone advise how i change my current white point to get to the 6500 target?
Also, on the brightness issue, does shades work to reduce my brightness or will it simply interfere with my colour calibration?
Finally, i was going to use my iMac for professional photography. (Mainly on line but some print work required). Honestly, is the iMac display up to the job or should i consider changing
Thanks
Gary

Corbybhy, the glossy screen is the biggest and silliest myth out there. Really.
I have been a professional art director & designer for over 26 years, and by the way, for many years my high end professional CRTS were made of glass (and glossy). Another myth is that the screens cannot be calibrated, and are too bright. Hogwash. I use Spyder3Pro and have had few problems, guessing your device will be the same. Actually, the monitors seem to stay consistant for a heck of a lot longer than the old high end CRTs did. In the old days, most professionals calibrated to 5000k, but these days 6500k is the standard.
The amount of MISINFORMATION that is being spewed always amazes me. If you can keep your lighting consistant and somewhat dim, your life will be easier. Reflections are simply not a major issue, and are also overblown as a issue (by the way, my iMac sits next to a window, I just use shades to dim the ambient light).
I work mostly in print, and produce mostly publications, advertising & marketing materials. I have ZERO issues with my screen matching my proofs. ZERO. I do a huge amount of imaging, retouching & post-processing... all from my 27" iMac.

Similar Messages

How should I set the iMac display in normal mode

how should I set the iMac display in normal mode

Not certain if this is what you're asking, but the normal setup would be System Preferences>Displays>Disply tab and select 'Best for display'.

Monitor white point setting 6500 or 5600?

My monitor has the rec709 default set to 5600- but I have read that 6500 is a better result.
Can anyone clear this up for me- thanks

Corbybhy, the glossy screen is the biggest and silliest myth out there. Really.
I have been a professional art director & designer for over 26 years, and by the way, for many years my high end professional CRTS were made of glass (and glossy). Another myth is that the screens cannot be calibrated, and are too bright. Hogwash. I use Spyder3Pro and have had few problems, guessing your device will be the same. Actually, the monitors seem to stay consistant for a heck of a lot longer than the old high end CRTs did. In the old days, most professionals calibrated to 5000k, but these days 6500k is the standard.
The amount of MISINFORMATION that is being spewed always amazes me. If you can keep your lighting consistant and somewhat dim, your life will be easier. Reflections are simply not a major issue, and are also overblown as a issue (by the way, my iMac sits next to a window, I just use shades to dim the ambient light).
I work mostly in print, and produce mostly publications, advertising & marketing materials. I have ZERO issues with my screen matching my proofs. ZERO. I do a huge amount of imaging, retouching & post-processing... all from my 27" iMac.

Calibration: iMac displays grey as white

I bought a hardware calibration tool (Spyder 3 Express) to adjust my Mac's monitor (iMac 27" 2011).
Everything looks fine, but yesterday I saw a photo of me on another monitor and noticed a greyish background. My iMac displays pure white and I didn't see the grey. It looks pretty unprofessional :-(
With Photohop's eyedropper tool I can see it is not white but about 248 250 251
So, how can adjust it? Is the iMac able to display this fine grade of grey? I hope so, the other monitor was a LG for 150$

The slider was on the left.
Here is a screenshot of a photo. The left photo is how it looks on my Mac. The other two are how the photo looks on other monitors.

IMac Retina White Point – default calibration looks almost yellowish?

With the suggested (d65) setting on white point, the screen looks almost yellowish to me. To get it looking anything like my Macbook Retina it seems like I have to change the white point to upwards 7000.
Anyone else..?

With the suggested (d65) setting on white point, the screen looks almost yellowish to me. To get it looking anything like my Macbook Retina it seems like I have to change the white point to upwards 7000.
Anyone else..?

Color/Display setting 17" iMac

I am not at the Mac at this time so I forget some steps.
The colors on the monitor were tending to be dark and the display of a spec'd PMS color definitely did not match, so I went into System Preferences, chose "Display" and then chose the color settings option. I clicked the option for advanced color settings. WHY did I do this? Duh!
After I went through all the "iMac" color settings, I saved the new calibrations. Somewhere along the line I came to screen display size (?). I clicked 1024 x 840 (like I said, I'm not at the iMac right now) or something close. WOW! I got everything BIG. It filled the screen all right! This was not what I wanted...I wanted to go back to the regular look. I returned to the Display, chose a lower size screen setting and the display was smaller than the area I have available.
I kept the larger setting because I don't know what else to do. When I read emails, the display is so large that my messages are down in the lower right off the screen.
All the icons on my desktop are wierd as well. The menu items are huge. Everything is huge. There was no "middle-size" setting for display. Where do I find Default settings? I've tried everything.

Use a hardware calibrator and while you're waiting for it to arrive, calibrate using the built in calibration in the system preferences for the display. Make sure you turn on the advanced options when you hit calibrate and calibrate to gamma 2.2 and a 6500K white point. These are not Apple's defaults but are essential. If you do at least that you'll get very good correspondence between print and monitor. A hardware calibrator will get you there absolutely. NEVER choose a working space profile such as adobeRGB or sRGB as your monitor profile. Monitors almost never correspond precisely to either of these and on a Mac, there is no excuse to not use at least the free built-in calibration. Apple's monitors (which you are using if it allows ColorLCD) are never near adobeRGB, they are usually closer to sRGB.

Setting the white point and gamma

I've heard that when calibrating your display you should set the white point and gamma to native. What is the difference between setting the white point at 65k and the gamma at 2.2?
Thanks in advance for your time
Rick

The difference would depend on what the native points were to begin with.

GT72 - Dragon Gaming Centre "Instant Play" & Display Colour Calibration issue

Hi guys,
Very much enjoying my GT72, but I've noticed a strange error that I can't seem to find the solution to either on this forum or elsewhere.
Basically the computer boots up to an incorrect colour calibration setting (really blue) which I have tried to set properly with the default windows "Calibrate Display Colour" tool. It seems to stick after doing that, but rebooting reverts it to the previous default.
I've also noticed that when pressing Fn+F4 for the Instant Play, it seems to change color display settings; if it was on the default really blue setting it'd change to my calibration, and vice versa.
I was wondering if anyone had any ideas on how to prevent Instant Play changing calibration settings and having my calibration stick between reboots?
Thanks in advance!

yeah.... with so much different angle and good quality, they are truly good photo shooting pieces!
Quote from: jassebomb on 03-April-15, 13:51:37
Nice photos

IMac displays only black & white

I set some wrong parameter and my iMac display switched from color to black & white. I cannot figure out how to change it back to a color display. Please help.

The tip above led me to the fix needed.
I unchecked 'Use grayscale' in
System Preferences > Accessibility > Display .
Thanks a lot for your prompt guidance.

Setting a White Point and Black Point

I would like to suggest for future versions of lIghtroom to have an ability to set the white point and black points similar to levels and curves in Photoshop. This would be in addition to setting middle grey in the white balance settings currently in Lightroom. I find that the method of using Threshold to find the closest white and black pixels and then using these points to set the black and white points in curves or levels provides a better way to fix a color cast than the methods available in Lightroom.

MB,
There is no real need for Black and White point eyedropper type tools in Lightroom. By holding down the Alt key while changing the Blacks or Exposure sliders the display will show the areas that are being clipped. This is much faster than looking around for the darkest and lightest areas manually. If you just like to click to taste (like using the White balance dropper) then forget the Alt key and just move the sliders until you get the desired look.
Remember that the problem with Photoshop is that there are so many ways to do the same thing that it has become difficult and bloated. Lightroom strives to keep the interface as clear as possible.

Calibrating an Intel iMac display using Spyder2PRO

Recently switched from Windoze to a 20" Intel iMac.
With previous monitors, I used the buttons on the monitor to calibrate.
The Spyder software asks what adjustments are available on the iMac, and since it is all in software I can't be sure. Backlight? Brightness? Color sliders? What is there is not apparent in the Mac calibration routine...
Anybody know?
Thanks,
Arthur
iMac 20 Mac OS X (10.4.8)

The software for the Spyder2PRO asks what adjustments
are available on the iMac monitor, and I can't find
them listed. Specifically, it asks if there are
adjustments for:
Gamma
White Point
Brightness
Contrast
Backlight
RGB Sliders
Kelvin Slider
Kelvin Presets.
Apparently, there are no RGB sliders, as the software
says they need adjusting but I see no way to adjust
them.
Thanks,
Arthur
iMac 20 Mac OS
X (10.4.8)
iMac 20 Mac OS X (10.4.8)
Check Backlight, its the only adjustment. Even though you might think its the brightness adjustment on LCD the brightness is conctrolled by the backlight. That's what Color Vision told me to do.

Native white point for Mac on Dual 23" Displays

I just tried yet again to calibrate my Dual 23" displays and get rid of a yellow cast that showed up from calibration ****.
The monitors are pretty close in color and I am using the Eye One Match Display calibrator. This unit is a couple years old (When I check it tells me I am using the latest version- 3.62) but I believe it to be functioning OK.
The read out I get as a summery of the calibration process is : Target>N.W.P versus Current>2300K.
So in order to figure out if I am close , I am asking what should be the actual value in color temperature of "Native White Point" on this hardware (G5,x800xt, 23"Cinema Display)

You could get a 400 to 800 FireWire adapter
<http://www.sonnettech.com/product/fw_adapter.html>
and use the FireWire 800 port, or just leave it unplugged if you don't need the FireWire ports on both monitors.

Lighting: Daylight or Cool White CFL? 5000K or 6507K iMac White Point?

Hi. When using the iMac (late 2009) in a small room. I can't find any 5000K bulb just the regular CFLs. Is it more ergonomic to use the daylight or the cool white CFL (bluish white vs. brownish or yellowish white) overhead light (room's volume is 29sqcube and the windows are blocked out, room's walls are dirty white and slightly gray ceiling) and is it better to set calibrate the iMac's white point to 5000K or the native 6507K (again, slightly yellowish vs. slightly yellowish white)?
Which lighting temperature would produce more accurate accurate color reproduction (for watching movies and doing graphics; for sketching on paper using a lamp and reading online too) and at the same time provide good ergonomics while working? What wattage of CFL is just right for the size of the room? Any site recommends that focuses in depth on lighting for computer use? Thank you in advance.
Gbu.

Hi, these articles might well help in your search for adequate room lighting.
http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/archive/183324
......L

Setting white point in LR

I'm almost sure I'm missing something but I cannot find a solution. I'm using LR (currently 2.2) for quite a while (since 1.2) but I simply cannot find an easy, user friedly and predictable way how to set a white point of edited pictures.
In PS, CR, DPP and most other editing SW and RAW processors, there two typical easy tools how to set the white point.
1) a white point picker which (when used) defines a desired tone as white and the relevant SW then redistributes the tones accordingly;
2) in "levels" or "curves" dialog (or their equivalents it is possible to move the "White level" treshold below which the remaining tones are redistributed accordingly - the iterface varies (sometimes it is the border of the histogram or curve diagram that can be moved (DPP), sometimes it is the slider in histogram or curve diagram setting this limit
botw ways generally lead to the same and quite uniform result. I.e. I'm usually able to get almost identical result by setting white point in PS, DPP, CR, .... and other SW by such simple operation when working over identical picture data.
However in LR it is virtually impossible to achieve similar result in LR. No white point picker, no slider enabling setting the white limit, no chance to move borders in the histogram chart. The only available tools for this purpose are
"Exposure" and "Brightness". None of them providing for the desired functionality alone - their combination giving sometimes acceptable but hardly predictable results (definitely not as predictable as achieved e.g. in PS by simple and single move of white limit slider in "level" dialogue or equivalent step in CR.
Do I really miss something important (I hope so) in this respect or is LR completly lacking this (for me really core/basic) functionality present in all other photo and RAW editting SW I know - even from Adobe?
thanks

I agree with the original poster - I find it troublesome to set the white point in an image. In a situation where a traditional (PS, Aperture) levels control would make it convenient to push a particular tone to white, I find myself going back and forth between exposure and the tone curve a fair amount. Another description of what I want, effectively, is a 'recovery' slider that goes up as well as down.
(See end of post for replies to a few specific points.)
An example:
Here is the original image, with its histogram and tone curve - black to middle gray:
I want to push the small hatch/door to white, but that also overexposes my middle grays (I haven't yet touched the tone curve):
So now I go to the tone curve, and pull down both darks and lights:
However, at this point I've lost my whites (they are not quite clipped any more); and probably more importantly, since the tone curve is at the extreme low values, I have little working room or control.
Rather than working together or providing complementary functions, in this case exposure and the tone curve, to me, seem to be fighting; it requires back-and-forth to get the desired effect.
(To be clear, most of the time - that is, when my white point starts out more or less where I want it - being able to drag the histogram and smoothly-transitioned segments of the tone curve is brilliantly easy and useful. It's specifically the exposure control's nonlinear behavior/effect that I dislike, as it makes it difficult to adjust near-white tones.)
Responding to specifics:
> Also, hold the ALT key (David Edwards)
Cool! (However, not a fix for this issue.)
> the controls themselves are not linear (Lee Jay)
> attempts to preserve highlights (Lee Jay)
> the exposure slider is almost exactly equivalent to the white point slider in Photoshop's levels/curves (Joa V. L.)
I think this is the root of the issue, for me - the exposure control is being intelligent in a way to protect hilights, which is counter to my intent. My experience leads me to disagree strongly with Joa's comment (though I would be very happy to discover I was wrong) - my problem is specifically that adjusting exposure up (brightening the image with exposure) affects tones less, the brighter they are.
> I need to decrease the Brightness (Henry_Deer)
> you may need to generate a higher-contrast tone curve and work with that (Lee Jay)
The brightness adjustment seems analogous to my use of the tone curve, though it's an alternate approach I haven't tried. However, both seem to suffer from the 'several rounds' problem.
Edited to reply to a few specific points

Setting White Points in Camera Raw

When setting white points in Adobe Camera Raw, while holding down Alt (on a PC), are the red marks what I should look for? Because white marks also appear? Which ones are relevant for the white point?

ACR doesn’t work that way. There is an eyedropper for the overall white-balance that you can set by clicking on a relatively bright, neutral area, but there aren’t black and white-point eyedroppers. But, what is clipped black or white is determined by the output colorspace you have set at the bottom and you can get some idea of what will be clipped black and white by turning on the clipping indicators and watching for the areas you’d be eye-droppering on (the black and white patches in your grayscale) to start showing the clipping color overlay for black and white, but any further toning adjustments will move data in and out of what is darker than black and lighter than white so what is clipped for output will change as you fiddle with the various toning sliders.
The reason things are different: In PS, when you set a black-point and white-point in Levels and click Ok, the data below and above those is thrown away and that is the starting point for the next adjustment. In ACR, things are non-destructive and all the adjustments occur simultaneously, rather than sequentially as in PS, and no clipping occurs until you create the output file. This means that the pixels that are darker than your black-point and lighter than your white-point are still there, and can be moved into the black-to-white range if you do further toning adjustments. Having more headroom of the pixels that are outside the black-to-white range is good because you won’t get the posterization or banding that occurs when colors and levels are clipped after each adjustment in PS.
Can you describe what you intend your overall workflow to be on an image: how much adjusting will occur in ACR and how much, if any, might happen in PS, after the image is opened into PS from ACR, or opened from a file saved from ACR? There might be other ways to approach what you’re trying to accomplish.

Colour Calibration / White Point setting - Is Imac Display really professional quality

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for