Colour cast on a MG 5300

When I print out a black and white photo on my Canon Pixma MG 5300 I am getting a strong red colour cast. Have tried all I know to correct it to no avail so any help would be great!

Christoff:
The photo on the left is the correct color rendition, i.e. the bluish version, right? Do other applications, i.e. Preview, Safari display the photos correctly on your computer?
TIP: For insurance against the iPhoto database corruption that many users have experienced I recommend making a backup copy of the Library6.iPhoto (iPhoto.Library for iPhoto 5 and earlier) database file and keep it current. If problems crop up where iPhoto suddenly can't see any photos or thinks there are no photos in the library, replacing the working Library6.iPhoto file with the backup will often get the library back. By keeping it current I mean backup after each import and/or any serious editing or work on books, slideshows, calendars, cards, etc. That insures that if a problem pops up and you do need to replace the database file, you'll retain all those efforts. It doesn't take long to make the backup and it's good insurance.
I've created an Automator workflow application (requires Tiger or later), iPhoto dB File Backup, that will copy the selected Library6.iPhoto file from your iPhoto Library folder to the Pictures folder, replacing any previous version of it. It's compatible with iPhoto 6 and 7 libraries and Tiger and Leopard. Just put the application in the Dock and click on it whenever you want to backup the dB file. iPhoto does not have to be closed to run the application, just idle. You can download it at Toad's Cellar. Be sure to read the Read Me pdf file.
Note: There's now an Automator backup application for iPhoto 5 that will work with Tiger or Leopard.

Similar Messages

Why do my black and white prints have a colour cast?

I've been trying to print some old black and white photos that I've scanned into iPhoto. Last year this worked fine, but now all the prints have a pinkish-brown colour cast. As a check, I opened the same photos in Preview and printed from there and they all printed perfectly, so the problem is in iPhoto. I've been through all the colour-related options in the iPhoto print menu but to no avail - no setting makes any difference, not even ticking the greyscale printing option. Does anyone have any ideas? I'm using iPhoto 09.

A good general step for strange issues is to renew the iPhoto preference file - quit iPhoto and go to "your user name" ==> library ==> preferences ==> com.apple.iPhoto.plist and trash it - launch iPhoto which creates a fresh new default preference file and reset any personal preferences you have changed and if you have moved the iPhoto library repoint to it. This may help
This does not affect your photos or any database information (keywords, faces, places, ratings, etc) in any way - they are stored in the iPhoto library - the iPhoto preference file simply controls how iPhoto works - which is why renewing it is a good first step.
LN

Pink colour cast when printing from iphoto

When I try printing from iPhoto to a Canon MG6150 I get a pink colour cast. The preview shows correct colour and I'm running out of paper with my attempts to sort it!
What has gone wrong as everything else seems fine?

Do you get the same results if you print the same photos from Preview? If not then it's definitely an iPhoto issue. If you get the same it's possibly more of a system issue or printer adjustment.
Check the Color Options (Printer) and Color Matching (iPhoto) settings in the print window. You might try tweeking some of them.
Your print window should have something similar.

Colour cast using auto White Balance in ACR 7.4

I am experiencing a yellowish colour cast when I set the White Balance to Auto in Adobe Camera Raw. This happens with pictures taken with the Nikon D7100 and also the Nikon D50.
Here is an example,
White Balance set to "As Shot":
White Balance set to "Auto":

RASouthworth wrote:
So I would conclude the ACR auto wb process is apparently not as reliable as the camera determination, and certainly inferior to direct measurement on a neutral object.
Oh, Auto WB is reliable for what it was designed to do...take the image colors into consideration when determining the auto white balance. It's doing exactly what it's supposted to do...the fact that it's often not what you want shouldn't be a surprise. The way a camera determines WB is by using a WB sensor (either the sensor itself or an external sensor) which is much more accurate than measuring image colors after capture. I've seen Auto WB help in certain cases where there simply is not white neutral in which to measure but I've found manually adjusting WB the best solution in most cases.

A77- High ISO colour cast

Hi everyone,
I am a proud owner of a shiny A77 and was greatly pleased to see LR3.5 supporting this camera.
General impressions of the LR conversions are very good until I get to ISO6400 or higher. No problems with grain or noise (except that it's high ISO, of course there is some grain!) but the LR conversions start to show an increasingly obtrusive red/pink colour cast which is particularly noticeable in darker parts of the picture.
I've shot 'RAW+JPG' and compared the output from the camera's JPG engine to what I can get out of RAW in LR3.5 and at ISO6400, the LR conversion has a hint of pink. At 12800, the LR is definitely pink and at the ultimate ISO of 16000, LR is positively rose tinted! The out-of-camera JPGs are not showing this colour cast.
I've tried resetting the LR develop settings all to zero, then reimporting files with no develop presets, tried the built in 'zeroed' preset. I even tried using my colorchecker passport to build a one-off colour profile, but it still comes out pinkish.
Is this because the camera Adobe Standard profile is quite new and needs a bit of tweaking? My A55 colours are handled quite nicely in LR by comparison. I had a sneaky peak at the Adobe Camera profiles folder on my computer (c:\documents and settings\all users\application data\adobe\CameraRaw\CameraProfiles\AdobeStandard) and noticed the file "Sony SLT-77V Adobe Standard.dcp" is 115kb along with the A65's equivalent and most others are only 55kb or 56KB.
In fact, the only large (115kb) .dcp files are all dated 15/9/2011 and belong to recently launched cameras. (Ricoh A12, Panasonic FZ150, Pentax Q etc).
Can anyone give me a clue?
Has Adobe invented a new type of .dcp file? Is it not handling high ISO colour very well?
Cheers

mikey: Lr does not currently adjust the black point for very high ISO images (any differently than low ISO images). So, you may see a magenta cast in the shadows at very high ISO. You can partially compensate for this by adjusting the "Shadow Tint" slider in the Camera Calibration panel.

Colour cast in ACR from Canon G11

Hi all,
I recently posted this question on the Lightroom Forum where I did recieved some useful answers, but unfortunaly the solution is not really workable in the long term. As the issue I am having is almost certainly related to ACR, I thought I'd post the question here too.
I bought Lightroom 3 a month or so ago, mainly to work with the RAW output from my Canon G11. The majority of the shots want to process are taken underwater around the UK coast. When imported into LR3 the shots take on a very strong green colour cast, even though I set the manual white balance at regular intervals. By comparison, Canon DPP imports the RAW files correctly (what I consider correct), and I get the same correct results with Raw Therapee, GIMP and Capture 1. I do, however, get the same colour cast problem importing in to Photoshop Elements 8, which convinces me ACR is at the root of the problem. I am using ACR 6.1 for both LR and PSE8. I would expect Canon DPP to be correct as it is processing it's own RAW files, but as the other RAW converters match the Canon output, this too points at an issue in ACR.
I've scanned both the Adobe LR and ACR forums, but can not see any posts where people are having similar issues to me. I did find several post's saying that ACR's support of the Canon G11 was now finished, maybe it has just been tuned for land based shots, not underwater. I tried to install the Release Candidate of ACR 6.2 at the weekend, but got a message on the lines of 'Not for this product' (I forget the exact words), so gave up on that.
A short while ago I did a test import with a RAW file taken in similar conditions to my shots, but using a Canon 5D MkII. This imported correctly, which implies the issue is related to the G11. I was not able to do a test import my shots as the person helping has an older version of ACR which does not include the G11 support.
I have tried using Adobe DNG Converter, to no avail, and I have also tried all the white balance pre-sets within LR3. The custom white balance picker does not give sensible results, it just changes the shots to a slightly different shade of green. Being aggressive with LR3 setting can make improvements (Camera Calibration RGB hue's plus the tint and temperature for the white balance for example), but it's a slow, shot by shot process, and still does not produce a usable finished product, or even a reasonable starting point for fine tuning.
As a work around I can open the RAW files in Canon DPP and output to TIF, which LR3 then opens correctly. I believe, however, that as I'm not working directly with the RAW file, I'm not going to get the best out of LR3's features.
I have tried raising a call directly with Adobe to ask about this issue. Unfortunatly is not practical as they need direct access to the PC running LR3, which is my home desktop, and I am at work when their call lines are open.
I've attached example output from LR3 and DPP. Both use white balance of 'As Shot', and neither have had any processing done on them. The LR3 shot looks less green that it does at home, I assume thats because I've saved it as a low res JPG.
Thanks for any advise people can give.
ACR/LR3 output
Canon DPP output (Same result for Raw Therapee, GIMP and Capture 1)

Can you please provide the raw file corresponding to the image shown in the original post? You can use YouSendIt.com with a target email address of [email protected] Thanks.

A very precise way to remove a colour cast

I've just stumbled into a way to remove a colour cast with great precision and subtlety. It accomplishes the same thing as the Colour Variations, but with much greater control. Don't know if it's common knowlege or has been mentioned before, but here it is:
Copy your image to the Clipboard.
Create a Hue/Saturation adjustment layer, which will automatically have a full image white mask.
Alt+click on the H/S mask to load it into the Editing window.
Paste your copied image into the mask.
Use the H/S settings to colorize the image, using a colour that's complementary to the colour cast you want to remove. In this case, I wanted to lessen the red, so I used a cyan colour:
Set the blend mode of the H/S layer to "Screen".
The layers look like this:
The before and after:
When you look at all the settings at your disposal (Hue, Saturation, Lightness, Opacity), you're bound to find precisely the result you're looking for.
Ken

Color Balance is a simple way, not automatic though.

Strange colour cast in LR3 with Canon G11 RAW

Hi all,
I recently bought Lightroom 3 to work with the RAW output from my Canon G11. The majority of the shots want to process are taken underwater around the UK coast. I'm having an issue with colour casts which I hope someone may be able to shed some light on.
With these underwater shots LR3 seems to import them with a very strong green colour cast, even though, when diving, I set the manual white balance at regular intervals. By comparison, Canon DPP imports the RAW files correctly (what I consider correct), and I get the same correct results with Raw Therapee, GIMP and Capture 1. PhotoShop Elements gives the same results as LR3, but I assume they both use ACR 6.1.
I would expect Canon DPP to be correct as it is processing it's own RAW files, but as the other RAW converters match the Canon output, I get the feeling that my problem is with LR3, or possibly ACR. I've scanned both the Adobe LR forum and ACR forum, but can not see any posts where people are having similar issues to me. I did find several post's saying that LR3's support of the Canon G11 was now finished, maybe it has just been tuned for land based shots, not underwater.
I have tried using Adobe DNG Converter, to no avail, and I have also tried all the white balance pre-sets within LR3. Even the custom white balance picker does not give sensible results, it just changes the shots to a slightly different shade of green.
Playing around with other setting in LR3 can make slight improvements, but it's a slow, shot by shot process, and still does not produce a usable finished product, or even a reasonable starting point for fine tuning.
I have found that I can use Canon DPP to output to TIF, which LR3 then opens correctly, but I feel that as I'm not then working with the RAW file, I'm not going to get the best out of LR3's features.
Is there some particular setting within LR3 or ACR that I have missed ? If not, am I actually loosing detail by converting to TIF before opening LR3 ?
I've attached example output from LR3 and DPP. Both use white balance of 'As Shot', and neither have had any processing done on them. The LR3 shot looks lees green that it does in LR3, I assume thats because I've saved it as a low res JPG.
Thanks for any advise people can give.
LR3 output
DPP output

Thanks for that answer, it shows that I may have some settings which need tweaking.
All the LR3 settings are as standard when first loaded, playing with this bunch of shots (about 20 in all) was the first thing I ever tried in it. I wouldn't even know how to apply split toning even if I wanted to (you probably guessed by now that I'm a new user to this software). All the on land shots I've messed around with import correctly, so it's definitly only the underwater ones.
One thing that I've just remembered, may be important, when I select shots to import in to LR3, the thumbnails look fine. It's only when the import process has finished the green colour cast appears. It's almost as if something is being applied right at the last minute.
I haven't tried to white balance the JPEG. I assumed it wouldn't work with the RAW, it would be the same with the JPEG.
I did process some shots using PS Elements a while ago, and don't remember any stong colour casts in that. They were from shallow fresh water rather than deeper salt water, may make a differeence. I believe the ACR plug in with PSE 8 at the time was in the 5.x range. I did manually upgrade the ACR plug in for PSE 8 to 6.1 after loading LR3. I can try backing that out and seeing if I still get the colour cast.
Hmmm, it's looking more and more like a problem with ACR 6.1. At a guess I'd say it's not interpreting the 'as shot' information correctly, or completly ignoring it.
I'll have a go with white balancing the JPEG when I get home. If you can do it, but I can't, it points directly with a setting on my system. I'll also have a look at uploading the RAW file somewhere.
Cheers

Magenta colour cast added to exported jpg photos

I shoot raw with my Canon EOS 5D and import the raw images to LR. There is no Development preset. Colours in LR look OK on my calibrated monitor - this is not a camera calibration problem as suggested in LR help and knowledgebase; I have tested these solutions with no change. Basic edits are usually about exposure correction or spot removal.
When I export the photos as a jpg files they have a magenta colour cast, sometimes quite strong. LR cannot be used for reliable prediction of what an exported photo will look like.
I checked with Canon Digital Photo Professional. The colour of the original photo shown in DPP is exactly the same as the jpg colours. This makes me think that LR display render is unreliable.
My system is as follows
LR 1.4.1 on PC with XP Pro service pack 2
LR installed on C: with over 80GB free space
LR catalogue on second internal F: with over 34GB free space
Photos on USB drive with over 220GB free space
2GB RAM 2.4 GHz P4 with Dell 2408WFP LCD monitor
LR export to sRGB 80% jpg 1000 pixels short edge (reduced from 4368x2912 pixel)

>I calibrate my monitor with Monaco EZcolor 2.6.5 and an i1 calorimeter from x-rite. I have profiles for day time with natural light and for evening with artificial light. I have also tested the monitor with various pictures for black and for colour rendering.
Excellent! Be aware that I have seen problems on this forum before because of defective colorimeters (a calorimeter is a device that measures heat BTW!).
>I use LR and Photoshop CS2. I use Canon software to download the photos from my camera to sub folder of my own choice then I import them to LR. The colour rendition by LR and Photoshop are identical.
That is a very good sign. If the color rendition between Lightroom and Photoshop is identical, you do not have a bad monitor profile, so we have to think about something else.
>The exported jpg files are uploaded onto a web page at panoramio.com for use on Google Earth. Therefore I view the jpg files with Mozila Firefox 2.0.0.14 and with Google Earth 4.2 The colour rendition by Canon Digital Photo Professional of the raw file is identical to the jpg rendition by Firefox of the web site photo.
Be aware that DPP can be set up to not color manage. There is a preference you have to turn on to make it color manage (you should if you want to trust the color). If you see a difference between Lightroom/Photoshop and an unmanaged browser, it is usually due to the fact that the browser is unmanaged. You cannot trust an unmanaged browser to show you the correct color even on a calibrated monitor. You still should not have a color cast in the neutrals though! Perhaps you should post some examples such as a direct Lightroom export (perhaps simply a link to the panoramio page) and a screenshot of what it looks like on your machine. That could perhaps narrow the issue down.
Do images such as the third image down in the left column (labelled "sRGB Standard RGB 2.2 gamma") on this page http://www.gballard.net/psd/go_live_page_profile/embeddedJPEGprofiles.html look normal (i.e. normal skintones, not too saturated, neutral whites) on your screen?
>I don't know about Firefox 3.0, it has not been offered in the normal auto update. I don't know about the secret setting for Firefox.
Read this: http://lagemaat.blogspot.com/2008/06/firefox-30-released.html

Colour Casts in Prints From Aperture

Hello,
I have read reams of material on calibration and profiling -- probably too much, because I'm more confused than I
was when I started.
This is my set up:
Nikon D300.
Mac Pro + GeForce 7300GT + Mac Cinema Display (20 inch).
Photoshop CS3 + Apple Aperture (2.1)
HP Photosmart 8250 (with HP cartridges)
This is my general workflow:
Pictures imported from camera into Aperture. Best shots are roundtripped to Photoshop, tweaked and then
re-imported back into Aperture as 16bit tiffs. A lot of these .tiffs are exported from CS3 in Lab Color Mode (I
don't know if this makes any difference -- I'm clutching at straws!)
This is my problem:
A3 prints of my shots done by a local photography shop look amazing. The colours match the colours I see on my
monitor. They're crisp and bright and everything I could wish for.
However I have tried printing A4 prints locally (from Aperture) on my printer and there are different coloured
casts that ruin the pictures.
I have tried different Aperture device profiles... including the System Managed profile & the profile for the HP
photo paper that I use and the shots have either a strong yellow cast or a strong pink cast depending upon the
profile I use.
My set-up hasn't been calibrated, and -- at this point in time -- I can't afford a calibrating device... can
anyone make any suggestions as to how I can get better results printing at home through Aperture, please?
Thank you very much!
Adam

I no longer get a colour cast.
I started with 1.5 and had some books printed these were fine. My old Canon 965i was used for printing and I got some casts adn I decided to get the B9180. Just before this I switched to Aperture 2 and now 2.1. Immediately I had colour casts and through this forum I found that I was not alone. The general view at that time was that it was a calibration issue but enough people who knew what they were talking about disproved that. The various options were to print through IPhoto, PS, PSE or some other external soutce. We all to a greater or less degree had some success.
During this time 2.1.1 came out and HP appeared to offer an updated driver.
In my case I re-installed everything, including the printer Firmware and carefully read everything that everybody had to say on the subject, thus in ColrSync I made sure that I had the same paper specified, that I specified it in soft proofing and that I specified it in the print menu and I variously set my Gamma between 1.05 and 1.2. I no longer have the cast but usualyl I have to do some tweaking and use a few sheets. Mostly this is with adjusting the Gamma.
I cannot understand teh attitude of Apple on this topic and some others whereby they have professionals dependent on their product andthey do not, as I woudl expect in a customer support oriented organisation, even acknowledge teh problem, let alone give out any information. I would be happer (if I was a pro) if I heard comforting words like 'We know about this, it seems to be caused by xxx and we are working on a solution but in the meantime try bbbb.'
The principle, in my view, should be 'You be the photographer, we will provide the tools.'

Green colour cast using Cinema DNGs

Hello
I'm shooting RAW with 5D3 and then convertiing to CDNG.
When viewing the footage in Speedgrade I get a huge green colour cast.
See example image: http://i.imgur.com/zQnziZT.jpg
I get this for every CDNG I shoot and even sample CDNGs obtained from the web.
Everything looks fine in DaVinci Resolve or in ACR, but I would prefer to work with Speedgrade as it fits my workflow better.
Obviously I could correct the green cast and balance the RGB parade but I dont want to do this every time.
Anything I can do?
Many thanks

Thank you for the reply.
OK so reading from those threads its 'normal' behaviour - however it isn't helpful, useful or wanted behaviour.
Both DV Resolve and ACR are able to give a usable 'corrected' starting point using the 'as shot' data - Speedgrade should be able to too.
If anyone from Adobe reads this - please condisder this another hat in the ring for this needed feature request.
Thanks

Yellow colour cast on all photos help!

I have photo taken with a canon 400d with sRGB colour profile set in the camera. However when these or any other photos from any camera have a yellow colour cast. I have the canon Digital Photo Professional software installed as well and when i view these photos in DPP they look exactly as the scene that i captured. Example below.
http://i401.photobucket.com/albums/pp97/cxxchan/Picture12.png
Can anyone tell how to fix this and have iPhoto show the pictures correctly?
Thanks
Message was edited by: Christoff

Christoff:
The photo on the left is the correct color rendition, i.e. the bluish version, right? Do other applications, i.e. Preview, Safari display the photos correctly on your computer?
TIP: For insurance against the iPhoto database corruption that many users have experienced I recommend making a backup copy of the Library6.iPhoto (iPhoto.Library for iPhoto 5 and earlier) database file and keep it current. If problems crop up where iPhoto suddenly can't see any photos or thinks there are no photos in the library, replacing the working Library6.iPhoto file with the backup will often get the library back. By keeping it current I mean backup after each import and/or any serious editing or work on books, slideshows, calendars, cards, etc. That insures that if a problem pops up and you do need to replace the database file, you'll retain all those efforts. It doesn't take long to make the backup and it's good insurance.
I've created an Automator workflow application (requires Tiger or later), iPhoto dB File Backup, that will copy the selected Library6.iPhoto file from your iPhoto Library folder to the Pictures folder, replacing any previous version of it. It's compatible with iPhoto 6 and 7 libraries and Tiger and Leopard. Just put the application in the Dock and click on it whenever you want to backup the dB file. iPhoto does not have to be closed to run the application, just idle. You can download it at Toad's Cellar. Be sure to read the Read Me pdf file.
Note: There's now an Automator backup application for iPhoto 5 that will work with Tiger or Leopard.

Remove partial colour cast caused by out of focus bars? help please!!!

I have several lovely images with a partial green horizontal colour cast caused by very out of focus bars, can anyone help me remove these? (without cloning!)
as shown here, across tigers head!
Thanks so much
Emma

why no cloning? they're an endangered species, do you want them to die out?
On a more serious note, you can fix this with a Curves adjustment layer with a Layer Mask made with the Gradient Tool set to Reflected. Set two sample points in the tiger's head, one in a white part of his fur and one in a black stripe and then modify the channels in those two points while looking at the Info panel to make sure that you get those two points neutral. After that you will need to modify the RGB "channel" to get it to blend in with the rest of the image. It should look something like this:
And here's my result:

Red colour cast

Hi, I open an image in Photoshop CC and it has a red colour cast, open the same image in Photoshop CS6 and no colour cast. Image edited in Lightroom first. Both lightroom and Photoshop have the same colour space, image has the same colour profile. I work on a calibrated Ezio monitor, any help?

Most likely a monitor profile issue, affecting CC but not CS6.
If you use ColorNavigator, set it to v2 matrix profiles (called gamma in CN). V4 and/or LUT profiles can sometimes cause problems. LUT profiles are theoretically more accurate, but also heavier and more complex.
There is no particular need to use the same color settings in Lightroom and Photoshop.

Colour Cast in Adobe products

Hi all.
I am sure someone out there can help me. I have installed CS, CS2 and now LR2.3, and every time I install an Adobe product, I struggle against reddish or orangish colour casts in my images. The same images opened in a variety of other progams do not show this colour cast.
The following link shows an NEF image converted to greyscale in LR 2.3. If I keep it as a colour image and completely desaturate it, it has the same colour.
Can anyone explain the colour cast, and how to ger rid of it. If you look at the thumbnails, you will see ther predominately warm cast they all have.
Here is the link:
http://www.jomp-photographics.com/colour_cast.jpg
Thanks in advance.
John

It may have been your Corel software rather than a wrong monitor profile from the manufacturer that caused your issue, Johnny. I had a similar problem when LR1 came out and it was caused by a color management profile that loaded into Windows at bootup that I had completely forgotten was installed when I first installed Corel software, and it messed LR's color up.
But I found the software eyeball calibration programs including PS Gamma to be inadequate. I mean, try it, sure, but if your results are still disappointing, especially when you try to match what you see on your monitor to what you get from a printer, do yourself a favor and get a hardware calibrator. You can spend hundreds of dollars for them, and I'm sure in many cases the expensive ones are worth every penny, just as you can justify expensive monitors and printers too for critical photo work, but my budget is much more modest. Still I found the hardware Spyder2 Express (currently $62 on amazon) color and gamma monitor calibrator to be an excellent value and
way more effective matching monitor to printer output in Lighhtroom than the do-it-yourself free online and built-in software calibrators. I saved more in photo ink and paper in not having to redo print jobs with different settings to get printed photos to look right than I spent for the Spyder2.
Not everybody likes them, as you'll see in Amazon reviews. You have to read S2E's readme file and follow the directions to the letter, with absolutely no shortcuts, to get good results with these, including being careful before calibrating to restore monitor defaults and set a 6500K color temperature, and have the monitor warmed up for one hour and the colorimeter warmed up for five minutes, and the room darkened with no light hitting the monitor as you calibrate; don't just try to use a hardware calibrator out of the box or follow a quick-and-dirty plug-and-pray approach as it would seem you could do, or they will disappoint, too, in my experience. Because I have a consumer-priced LCD monitor, and they are
not good on color and gamma accuracy as a rule, I do still sometimes have to make minor adjustments to monitor settings after calibrating or minor changes to printer settings to match print to monitor, but it's much closer using hardware calibration than not.

Colour cast on a MG 5300

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