Colour Corrector and 3 Way

I have shot 2 views of the same scene of paving stones and i need to match the colours, i'm relatively new to this so please bear with me.
One of the cameras has the perfect colour paving colour, whilst the other is too cool, in Colour Corrector and 3 way it shows the pipett tool is it possible to pick a colour from one scene and match it to the other ?
Help

Search is your friend: [Match Hue|http://discussions.apple.com/search.jspa?threadID=&q=Match+Hue&objID=f939&d ateRange=thisyear&userID=&numResults=30&rankBy=10001]

Similar Messages

How do I get a three-way colour blend (and rounded edge effect)?

For what it's worth I'm using Illustrator CS5 but I imagine any solution will apply to all recent versions.
In practice I've pretty much got where I need to so this isn't an immediate problem, but I'm sure there are much better ways of achieving the effect and I'd like to have them in stock for future reference. I'm not sure if this is a basic matter that I should be able to figure out easily or a challenge for more advanced practitioners; either way, I'd be grateful for any suggestions.
The end product I was after - sort of - is shown here:
The two elements I struggled with were:
Blending the colours where they join - particularly the three-way blend at the middle, which in the end I avoided by placing another object on top! I resorted to a manual, tedious and inaccurate point-by-point approach using meshes and it didn't really deliver what I wanted, which was a seamless join between the colours.
Getting the effect of a rounded edge at the perimeter of the triangle - I used the same mesh-and-guesswork technique (and it shows).
In whatever solution anyone can suggest, one of the important things is to be able to dictate the distance over which the blend and shading operate, both where the colours merge and at the rounded edges. Feel free, by the way, to start from the very beginning with "First, construct your triangle" - I realised, as I did this, that there are a many different ways to do that, and one may be better than another for a particular blending approach.
Thanks for your thoughts,
Giles.

1. Polygon Tool: ShiftDrag to draw a triangle oriented with one of its corners at the top.
2. Apply a linear grad fill, blue to white, -90°
3. Appearance palette: Add New Fill. Linear grad, red to white, 30°
4. Appearance palette: Add New Fill. Linear grad, green to white, 150°
5 Appearance palette: Select each fill. Set its Transparency Mode to Exclusion.
6.Deselect. Select the path. Effect>Distort>RoundedCorners.
JET

Shake as a Colour Corrector Alternative?

Hi
I know SHAKE is a compositing app, but I've never really come across any information regarding colour correcting in Shake. How is the CC in relation to FCP? And would anyone recommend it to use solely as a Colour Correcting tool for film/video work?
Cheers!

How is the CC in relation to
FCP? And would anyone recommend it to use solely as
a Colour Correcting tool for film/video work?
Well, since you mention film, and seeing as it actually understands what a logarithmic plate is, I would say right off the bat you're doing better CCs than in FCP.
For the broadcast monitor, you need a card that has a Shared Desktop. You may need to fiddle a bit with the numberOfMonitors setting in the Globals (can't remember the exact parameter name, something like that), or some Preferences for the Card itself.
Back to the Colour correctors - you have a wide variety of tools available to you (Lookup, LookupHLS and HueCurves being particularly useful), and many of them concatenate (look it up in the Manual - it basically means 2 contiguous correctors won't clip each other out). You also have access to 16 bpc or float bpc corrections. Finally, you also have explicit control over premultiplication, which FCP does not.
And then you have the ability to mask of your correction via a variety of means. It's almost like Shake was a compositing package!
The one thing you don't have is a pretty interface like the FCP 3-Way, but you do have better control, and its certainly not in real-time like FCP.
There's also the ColorGrade macro in the Cookbook that's pretty useful.
-ed

My problem is that after printing the first photo or picture, when I come to print a second, both the Colour Management and Epson Colour Controls are greyed out and showing No Colour Management

I have recently purchased a Mac computer (updated to Maverick) to go with my Epson Stylus Photo RX500 printer which has given excellent service with my old Windows computer. However, when trying to print pictures or photos via Photoshop Elements 11, the best results I can get are using the Colour Management and Epson Colour controls in the printing options box.
My problem is that after printing the first photo or picture, when I come to print a second, both the Colour Management and Epson Colour Controls are greyed out and showing No Colour Management, The only way I can reset the controls is to shut down the printer and computer and restart.
Could there may be a setting somewhere that I need to adjust please? I have been in touch with Epson and they say that the Epson Colour controls are part of the Photoshop Elements software but a post on the Adobe forum brought no results and I am unable to contact Adobe.
<Edited by Host>

Hello Garry. Thanks for the reply. I guess I should have used a different title from "How do I post a question?" That should come after trying to resolved the colour settings first. However, to answer your question, after experimenting with all the different settings in Photoshop Elements and Epson software, I now start with PSE11 Colour settings then click "no colour management" then after clicking Print, I choose "More Options/Colour Management/Colour Handling/Printer Manages Colour" then I choose "Page Setup/Layout/Colour Matching" which then shows Epson Colour Controls but I also choose "Layout/Colour Management" which then shows "Colour Controls/Mode" I then of course choose an Epson printer profile depending on the paper I am using. I get good results but as I said, the Colour Matching and Colour Controls are then greyed out. Hope that makes sense.

RGB CMYK PDF EXPORT.(colour conversion) Keeping your colours vibrant and your blacks black.

Ive been tearing my hair out for the best part of 14 hours trying to figure out how to keep the closest possible conversion for working with images(rgb in photoshop) right the way through a work flow until exporting to print (having used the image in Indesign). Here is the process I have been trying to get right.
1) working with RGB photo images in photoshop and converting them to CMYK (whilst holding on to as much colour as poss)
2) Importing them to Indesign and retaining the correct colours while working with them)
3) Exporting to high quality print and having all your colours stay 100% the same as you saw them within indesign.
I believe I have the solution so I posted my settings below to see if its the best way of doing things and to help others who might be having the same problems.
The problem
The problem is that there are many different colour models/profiles (both in RGB and CMYK) and each program can effect how the next one handles and stores colour. It can become frustrating knowing where to go in order to set the settings correctly as the combination of things to consider can make it confusing.
I understand many other people have similar problems and finding RGB blacks come out as grey. CMYK spaces get converted from one type to another either from one program to the next or even as things move around one program (causing all sorts of wonderful,colour errors) Plus you have imported colour profiles, working colour profiles and export profiles. All of which can interact and effect each other) So getting it all consistent is key other wise colours change and get washed out.   Especially vibrant colours like greens and blues. they fade etc.
Through sheer trial and error and perciverance I found a combination of settings that worked well for me.
Since I am not an expert I wanted to post up my settings to:
1) see if this is the best way of doing things.
2) Other people may find them useful if they had the same problems I had,
The Solution
In photoshop
Save the photoshop image in CMYK by selecting:
Edit > Convert to prfile.
(in destination space)
select: Euroscale Coated v2   (I think this holds the colours the truest of all CMYK colour formats.)
(in conversion options)
- Engine: Adobe ACE
- Intent: Perceptual.
- Check Use black point Compensation.
(leave all else unchecked)
Save the image ready to place in indesign (place rather than copy and paste.).
In Indesign
edit > colour settings   (make sure you click on the advanced tick box to open more options)
- Working space: =
- RGB: sRGB IEC....
- CMYK Euroscale coated v2
- RGB & CMYK convert to working space.
- Engine Adobe ACE
- Perceptual
- Use black point compensation
edit > Assign profiles
- RGB profile. > Assign current workspace: sRGB IE
- CMYK > Assign current work space Euroscale Coated V2
- Solid colour intent : preceptual
- Default image intent
- After blending intent: Perceptual.
edit > convert to profile. (use similar as above).
edit > Preferences > Apprearance of black
- on screen / export : Display all blacks as enriched black
- Priniting and export : Display all blacks as enriched black
Overprint: (not checked)
------ when exporting to PDF ----------
File > Export
in GENERAL TAB
- Adobe PDF preset: High quality print.
- Standard (drop down menu): PDF/X-42008
- Compatability: Acrobat 5 PDF1:4
in OUTPUT
- COlour conversion: Convert to destination
- Destination: Working CMYK Euroscale Coated v2
in PDF/X
- Output intent profile name: Working CMYK - Euroscale Coated v2
also:
If you are having problems with fill blacks not coming out as proper black then use registration instead of black from the swatch panel.
The above may seem either obvious to most of you or possibly not the best way of doing things but since the results worked for me and I found them tough to arrive at, it may be of use to others hence my post.
I would like your feedback on this process, have I done something wrong / could do better? If so please let me know. I am keen to improve.

I would copy and paste into InDesign forum. Text should stay 100% black. Any other black (like solid boxes or thick lines), I usually use a rich black swatch I created at 40/40/40/100. Looks 10 times better than just 100% black.

Colour in different ways, rows of different level of a hierarchy in WAD 7.0

Hi all,
Can anybody tell me how to colour in different ways, rows of different level of a hierarchy, in a web template? Im working with WAD 7.0
Thank you,
Best regards
Savino Pompa

Hi wand,
I know but i have to use Web template and i don't understand why By WAD 3.5 it was possible format layout through stylesheets and now by Wad BI i can't.
Thanks Savino

Is there a color corrector 3 way in FCE?

is there a color corrector 3 way in FCE?
If so does any one know where please .
I'm looking to give my film a more music video look

I wanted to have control with the whites mids and blacks and each one a different color control, to get somewhere along the lines of for instance a U2 video feel. I'm sure there must be other ways
Thanks very much.

Hi, I tried to create a slideshow that contain more than 500 photos. Now, trying to open / execute / select the slideshow, iPhoto hangs with the spinning coloured wheel and I have only to force the deletion from System Preference. Any suggestion?

Hi, I tried to create a slideshow that contain more than 500 photos. Now, trying to open / execute / select the slideshow, iPhoto hangs with the spinning coloured wheel and I have only to force the deletion from System Preference. I already tried to rebuild the iPhoto Library (all the possible options) and tried to update teh version from 9.4.3 to 9.5 but the problem still persists: is there a way to delete this slideshow without selecting it ? How can I solve the problem, please?
Kind Regards

Can you restore your iPhoto Library from a backup version, that was created before you added the slideshow?
If not, have you tried to rebuild the slideshow with iPhoto Library Manager?
As described by Terence Devlin here: Re: iphoto library was created with an unrelased version of iphoto please quit and ugrade library by opening it in iphoto 2 or iphoto 4

Itunes freezes on my mac mini?? its okay for the first few minutes then freezes. i just then get the colour wheel and have to 'force close'

hi there, i have major problems with itunes freezing on my mac Mini, its okay for the first minute or two then it freezes and i get the spinning colour wheel and i have to force close.
can anyone help?

I suspect that you'll have to mount that volume at boot time and not at login time as you're doing now. If you can arrange that, then the volume should be available to all users.
Unfortunately, there doesn't seem to be an easy way to do a boot-time mount. I tried searching for "mount drive startup mac" (without the quotes), but most of the results described how to mount a volume at login time. Ignore any advice that mentions "Login Items".
I did find this discussion, but it's very sketchy. You also have to be careful that any advice you find applies to the version of OS X that you're using.

LOGIC PRO 8 - Loading up with weird colour settings and functionality.

Hi guys - could someone please help me resolve my issue.
I was half way through a Migration assistant and stupidly i did not connect my power source so my battery died.
The problem i have with Logic Pro 8 is that every time i load up, it comes up with a weird blue purple colour theme and i can't see everything properly.
can someone please help me.
Thank you

/Users/Rikz/Desktop/Screen shot 2010-12-17 at 01.52.55.png/Users/Rikz/Desktop/Screen shot 2010-12-17 at 01.52.48.png

I am having problems gettting my mail to work ... Mac telling me that my start up disk id full and to delete some files to free up space ... have done this but when i open mail from the dock it just brings up the colour wheel and nothing happening

I am having problems gettting my mail to work ... Mac telling me that my start up disk id full and to delete some files to free up space ... have done this but when i open mail from the dock it just brings up the colour wheel and nothing happening ... it shows when you right click on the mail icon that " application not responding"

If your hard drive is getting full, you need to free up, at least, 20 GBs of space on your iMac's hard drive.
If your Mac is running a fairly recent version of OS X, here are some general guidelines.
Follow some of my tips for cleaning out, deleting and archiving data from your Mac's internal hard drive.
Have you emptied your iMac's Trash icon in the Dock?
If you use iPhoto, iPhoto has its own trash that needs to be emptied, also.
If you use Apple Mail app, Apple Mail also has its own trash area that needs to be emptied, too!
Other things you can do to gain space.
Delete any old or no longer needed emails and/or archive to disc, flash drives or external hard drive, older emails you want to save.
Look through your Documents folder and delete any type of old useless type files like "Read Me" type files.
Again, archive to disc, flash drives, ext. hard drives or delete any old documents you no longer use or immediately need.
Download an app called OnyX for your version of OS X.
When you install and launch it, let it run the automatic ans S.M,A.R.T. tests, then go to the cleaning and maintenance tabs and run the tabs that have the ability to clean out all web browser cache files, web browser histories, system cache files, delete old error log files.
Typically, iTunes and iPhoto libraries are the biggest users of HD space.
move these files/data off of your internal drive to the external hard drive and deleted off of the internal hard drive.
If you have any other large folders of personal data or projects, these should be archived or moved, also, to the optical discs, flash drives or external hard drive and then either archived to disc and/or deleted off your internal hard drive.
Good Luck!

Is it possible to hook a USB external hard drive to an iPad?.....the HD has video on it that I wanna watch on my iPad but don't wanna store it on iPad or iTunes....and way format does the video need to be in to watch on iPad?

Is it possible to hook a USB external hard drive to an iPad?.....the HD has video on it that I wanna watch on my iPad but don't wanna store it on iPad or iTunes....and way format does the video need to be in to watch on iPad?

There are some wireless external hard drives that can be used with the iPad.
The Kingston Wi-Drive, which costs $50 for the 16 Gigabyte, and then $30 more for every 16 gigs more. It works by you turning it on and then accessing the files on it from an app that you download on your iDevice. You can access music, movies, and other stuff. No connections or anything, it works like a WiFi connection, you connect to it from the setting on the iPad under wireless networks.
Then there is the Seagate GoFlex, which some would recommend over the Wi-Drive. But this one costs $199 and had 500 Gigabytes of storage. It works the sameway as the Kingston: no wires, runs over its wireless connection. You can actually fit up to 300 HD movies on it.
Another option:
Expand your iPad's storage capacity with HyperDrive
http://www.macworld.com/article/1153935/hyperdrive.html
On the road with a camera, an iPad, and a Hyperdrive
http://www.macworld.com/article/1160231/ipadhyperdrive.html
Pad2, the new iPad Supported Video Formats & Movie Formats
H.264 video up to 1080p, 30 frames per second, High Profile level 4.1 with AAC-LC audio up to 160 Kbps, 48kHz, stereo audio in .m4v, .mp4, and .mov file formats;
MPEG-4 video up to 2.5 Mbps, 640 by 480 pixels, 30 frames per second, Simple Profile with AAC-LC audio up to 160 Kbps per channel, 48kHz, stereo audio in .m4v, .mp4, and .mov file formats;
Motion JPEG (M-JPEG) up to 35 Mbps, 1280 by 720 pixels, 30 frames per second, audio in ulaw, PCM stereo audio in .avi file format
 Cheers, Tom

Colour colour profiles and JPEG compression mismatch

In preparing images for iBooks I have noticed bizarre behaviours and a number of problems with matching colours.
For example, if a JPEG image all one colour is placed in a gallery widget over a text box, and then the background colour of the textbox is set to the colour of the image by sampling the colour in the image using the colour picker, when downloaded to the iPad the colours will not match (although they appear to in iBooks Author). I presume this must be a bug with the encoding of the JPEG? Or is it a conversion issue between different colour profiles used for the solid colours in iBooks and the sRGB colours that Apple advises using for images?
I have also noticed that if you download a book to an iPad the colour matching between solids and image colours changes radically depending on what monitor you have the computer running iBooks Author plugged into (ie depending on the monitor profile in use). What colour profile does iBooks author use for solids and what for images and why are they different? Is it conversing the solids but not the images, or vice versa, and between which colour spaces? What is the working colour space of iBooks Author? Does it differ depending on the monitor profile? If so, why does converting images to the monitor profile still not result in them matching the solids used in iBooks Author?
In short, does anyone have a clue what is going on with the colour profiles and colour matching in iBooks Author and iBooks on the iPad? They certainly display the most perplexing behaviour I have ever come across.
Giles Hudson

Although you say there is no concept of a colour profile in iOS, the problem is that iBooks Author does recognize profiles, and appears to take them into consideration when downloading images to books on the iPad. For example, an image tagged with an sRGB profile placed in iBooks Author will appear differently from an identical image tagged with an Adobe RGB profile. The problem is, it is not at all clear what conversion is going on, especially when using a monitor with a different colour profile appears to cause radically different behaviour in the conversion. Is it being converted to "Device RGB" that the colour picker apepars to use? What is this Device RGB? The monitor RGB or the iPad RGB?
I understand that iOS supports RGB and CMYK. However, the important question is, which working space does iBooks Author use? sRGB, GenericRGB, Device RGB (whatever that is), Apple RGB, Adobe RGB, the monitor RGB? Without knowing this it is difficult to match solid colours to colours in images (and even arguably impossible due to the JPEG encoding problem I mentioned above).
All this vagueness in colour handling with OSX and iOS makes life very difficult, especially, as you suggest, when things have the potential to change at any minute, potentially wrecking months of painstaking work that has been put into designing books in iBooks Author.

Help with colour profiles and wide gamut monitor

Hi there,
I know this issue must crop up a lot due to its confusing nature but I would really appreciate it if someone could explain what settings I should be using in Photoshop to get accurate colours. I had a look around and couldn't find any other discussions that answered this exactly.
My set up is a Dell 2408WFP monitor which is wide-gamut. I have calibrated this using a huey Pro calibrator (therefore have an accurate system colour profile). My photos are in Canon sRGB space, set by Digital Photo Professional (obviously easily changed if need be).
What I would like is to be able to preview what my photos will look like on a standard sRGB display. When I open a photo in Photoshop with all the settings on their default it looks extremely washed out, very low contrast and saturation. This is nothing like what the photos look like outside of Photoshop, and also not what the photos look like on other (normal gamut) displays. I have tried using the "proof colours" settings. When I have "proof setup" set to Internet Standard sRGB the colours look dreadful, oranges become blood-red, definitely not what I am getting when I view the image on a standard monitor. If I have it set to Monitor RGB then I get colours that look like my monitor outside of Photoshop -- this is the closest out of the three to the result I am actually getting on standard gamut displays. However I know it is not accurate because I know my monitor is wide gamut and therefore more has more contrast (and this is the case).
So what combination of photo colour space, proof colour space, and proof colours settings should I be using? My main priority is just the Joe Average using his TN panel monitor on facebook, I accept that on my monitor they will look slightly different. Settings for print don't concern me at the moment.
Thanks for the help. To anyone who will suggest that I read up on colour profiles... I have, and I understand them to an extent, but there are so many variables here that I am getting lost (monitor profile, photo profile, photoshop settings, DPP settings, faststone viewer's settings, browser's lack of awareness...)
Andrew

function(){return A.apply(null,[this].concat($A(arguments)))}
thekrimsonchin wrote:
I know this issue must crop up a lot due to its confusing nature
You have no idea.
What I'm reading is that you want Photoshop, with its color management enabled, to display your sRGB photos as they would be seen on a true sRGB monitor - i.e., accurately.
Something to always keep in mind, when everything's set right and working properly: Your sRGB image displayed on your wide gamut monitor without color management (e.g., by Internet Explorer) will look bolder and brighter (more color-saturated) than the same image displayed in Photoshop with color-management. There is no getting around this, because the sRGB profile is not equivalent to the monitor profile. Do not expect them to look the same.
It's hard, without being there and seeing what you're seeing, to judge whether your sRGB images are undersaturated compared to what's seen on other monitors. I do know, as one with sRGB monitors myself, that images can look quite vibrant and alive in the sRGB color space.
What we can't know is whether your judgment that your color-managed sRGB images are undersaturated is correct in an absolute sense, or whether you're just feeling the difference between seeing them on your monitor in non-color-managed apps and Photoshop.
Photoshop normally does its color management like this: It combines the information from the color profile in your document with the color profile of the monitor, which it retrieves from a standard place in Windows, and creates a transform used to display the colors.
To have it do this you would NOT want the Proof Colors setting enabled. It is the default behavior.
-Noel
P.S., I don't recall whether DPP is color-managed, but you might consider using Photoshop's raw converter, which definitely shows color-managed output, per the settings I described above.
P.P.S., Your calibrator/profiler should have put the monitor profile in the proper place and set all the proper stuff up in Windows. Is it specifically listed as compatible with the version of Windows you're running?

When I go in to SYSTEM PREFERENCE and click on DESKTOP/SCREENSAVERS it says pictures loading but then I get that coloured circle and nothing else - I then have to force quit

When I go in to SYSTEM PREFERENCE and click on DESKTOP/SCREENSAVERS it says pictures loading but then I get that coloured circle and nothing else - I then have to force quit

Hi Mende 1
I have just tried what you suggested and it came up with - folder can't be found?

Colour Corrector and 3 Way

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for