Colour issues - 23" ACD

Hi gang,
Another question, if you don't mind.
I mainly work on 3D Architectural presentations. The clients are handed a digital files and I never deal with the printing of the images. Some go onto large billboards, some even get framed .
In most of the cases the colour is "close enough, good enough".
i am finding that the ACD is much warmer than the MBP, even if set to the same colour space; I mostly work in Adobe RGB 1998.
I don't think I need to calibrate the display with a hardware device (like the spider) as I don't output, but which do I trust more?
I am afraid I'll end up with images being overall too blue or too yellow depending which screen I rely upon.
Any ideas? Happy to hear about your experiences.
cheers
i.3d

I see your point WRT the brightness moving to zero, but my question remains, how long should this decay go on and what is acceptable?
I will do another experiment tonight turning off all power management on the display to see if indeed it ever does settle. I'm going to note the starting level (no adjustment after the display has been running for at least 30 minutes), then after 1, 2, 4, 8, and 16 minutes post slider adjustment. If it continues to decay after 16 minutes, I would think that is unacceptable.
Sound reasonable?

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Colour issues LR3

I shoot ijn Camera RAW on a Canon 5D2 in LR3 and I'm having colour issues; skin tones are often purple/magenta tinted and very difficult to correct. I usually set the WB to Custom and shoot a grey card and set the picture style on the camera to Neutral (why does the WB affect RAW images anyway, I thought it only operated on the jpgs?)
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maninahat wrote:
On import, pics often look ok then resolve into higher contrast, garish colour versions which are less pleasing - have I set a preference incorrectly or am I missing something else?
When you first import, you see the small embedded JPEG the camera generates. This matches what you see on the LCD but is based on having the camera do the conversions which you're not doing. LR therefore has to build it's own high quality previews but more importantly, that is based on it's current default settings using it's own engine. So just forget what you initially see, you'd not get that unless you set the camera for JPEG.
The key is setting up a custom default you prefer. You could pick a general DNG profile, move any of the sliders around etc and the, if you option click in Develop, the Reset button toggles to allow you to create a new default. From there you can of course adjust to taste. You'll still have to white balance and so forth but you should try to get a decent 'starting point' from Import on. For WB, might want to set the camera for Auto WB. Note this setting has no effect on your raw data! It's only a suggestion you can accept or alter. With Auto WB, you'll probably find more images come in looking closer to what you want then say forcing Daylight (which would look butt ugly IF those images were shot under Tungsten). Auto IS NOT PERECT by a long shot but since the setting doesn't affect the data, might as well try for something that gets you in the ball park.
Using any card to WB (and you should use a white, not gray card) again is often just another starting point. You seasson to taste using Tint/Temp. And of course, if you shot a scene at sunset and did this, you'd kill the color expected at that time of day. Bottom line is, when you capture raw, the WB can be anything you wish, anything you think looks good. That would not be the case with a JPEG. If you set it, you're then kind of stuck with that rendering.
Lastly, creating one or two custom DNG camera profiles can work wonders. Check out the X-rite Passport product. You'll end up with a really great target for balancing as well.

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Bridge/ Photoshop Colour Issues:
It appears that there are a few pictures that are noticeably dull, when I load them in Bridge and Photoshop. Those same pictures are very vibrant when I look at them directly from the SD card or load them into Picassa. I tried editing the picture, saving it in Photoshop, then opening it up in Picassa and it has the same dullness. Since having this issue, I have updated the drivers on my Quadro graphics card, but I think it may be something to do with the way that I set up Adobe Bridge, because this is the first time I have imported a large batch of photos from Bridge. However, I pretty much left everything as the standard settings in Bridge. Any suggestions?
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Derek

Dwhug wrote:
However, when I switch the Colour Settings>Working Spaces>RGB to "Monitor RGB - Huey Pro" the problem is fixed.
That turns off color management in Photoshop, so yes, that would match other applications that aren't color managed at all. You're not fixing the problem, you're just hiding the symptom.
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I seem to remember being able to CHANGE the develop module in LR3 so that I was working in sRGB. And when I was working in LR3, on the SAME monitor I never had colour issues between develop and export to Flickr.
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Not everybody has the means to buy calibration equipment. It's #1 on my wish list and I am serious about my photography, but I work on a very low budget and can only spend as I earn! I don't buy lenses. I bought one 35mm and that's me ~ everything else it's out of budget right now. A decent calibrator does not come cheap and I see no point buying a cheap one that probably won't be much better than the auto that's already built into my screen!
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Hi people.
I'm having some colour issues with my buttons. Not the regular buttons, but the buttons in the picture windows.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v520/DanThe440Man/Random%20Stuff/RolloverColou rs.jpg
As you'll see in the 1st picture, 'Back To Index' goes Orange when you hover the mouse over it. When you take the mouse off it, it goes grey. On the 2nd picture, in the bottom right, the 'Next' button behaves exactly the same. This is good, because they fit the colour scheme of the website. However, out of the 9 albums I have on my website, this is the only album that does this. All the other albums buttons are white!
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Hey Everybody,
I have had to re-register, so this looks like my first post!
There is a colour issue which is seriously baffling us, we shot a fighting event with a 3 camera shoot. 3 Days, and on all 3 days the cameras seem to have produced different colour outputs dispite being on the same setting. Can anybody shed any light on how to match the colours here. All settings on the cameras were the same, so we are surprised that the footage has come out differently. The following day the footage from all 3 cameras were indentical. However this is the footage produced from the first shoot
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While it would appear there might be a slight hint of over exposure when we take the brightness right down, there is hardly any highspots.
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Thanks in advance

its important to use the same exact cameras on multi camera shoots. also important to take color meter and see what the lights give you. sodium vapor and tungsten and flourescent all need different " color correction" gels to make them equal 32k or 56k .. and its not just orange and blue correction ...its also green and magenta etc...
professionally , you cant do all that at the " lens " with cc filters..you need to actually get to the lights physically ( with scissor lifts or cranes ( manlifts ) and gel the lights too ).
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That said it sounds like you are screwed...
To have someone try to correct that professionally would cost more than you can afford, or you would have used that " money " to correct your color etc in the beginning... in other words, if you could afford to send everything to a pro lab and try color correcting all that stuff, you wouldnt have this problem to begin with IMO.
My suggestion:
Since wrestling is a gritty sport and " manly " and full of emotion that is basically " tough " and " hard " ....trash the color altogether and make everything black and white... maybe increase your contrast a tiny bit ...or maybe add a slight " tone " to it....( not sepia which looks just " old " , but maybe slight blue tint ? ) ...something to make it look as gritty and hard as you can...
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Hi DoDolom,
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Cross posted here, but no answer so far. Sorry for cross posting. For me, this is urgent, but I know it's not for anyone else, so apologies for putting 'urgent'.
http://www.mac-forums.com/forums/images-graphic-design-digital-photography/150670-colour-i ssue-save-web-photoshop-elements-6-a.html#post840419
This is a similar issue to this:
Save for web color issue
Except the user who posted the above was using photoshop cs3, and I'm using Adobe Photoshop Elements 6.
When I work on a photo, I get it just right, then go to Save for Web, and the original it previews is loads lighter than the orginal I was working on in the first place. See 'Picture 1' attachment.
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I used to use PSE2 on a PC, and never had this problem. I didn't need to mess about with colour profiles or anything similar on the PC. The original was the original, not a washed out version of the original. Why spend ages getting the file just right, only for Save for Web to screw it up?
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Thanks

Thanks very much for your reply.
I've uploaded the images here:
http://jimpix.co.uk/images/Picture 1.jpg
http://jimpix.co.uk/images/Picture 2.png
I deleted the prefs. file you suggested, and then opened PSE6.
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http://jimpix.co.uk/images/Picture 3.png
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Wanted to know if anyone else was having this same font annomaly?
When in Mail, if I ever need to change my text colour to black through the "Click to choose text color" toolbar option (for example if I have copied text that was in a different colour from a web site and want to change it to black, or if I have changed my text colour for emphasis and need to change back to black), the text does not go to black, it turns white. I can begin composing any email in black fine, but simply cannot ever change text back to black.
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Hello,
I have also, as everybody I think this issue.
Unfortunatly, it seems no solution available by Apple and plugin I tested (universalmailler, messagefont) or other don't solve it.
Well, I made my own service with automator (for mail.app, w/o entry) with such code below and assign it to hot key ^R (ctrl R):
I know this code is quick and dirty, but it function for me (OSX maverick, french) and now answer and previous text from sender are formatted in Arial, 16pts, blue dark color.
If somebody want to change it, improve it, no problem.
If somebody want more info, please tell me.
tell application "Mail"
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end tell
delay 0.2
tell application "System Events"
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end tell
delay 0.2
tell application "System Events"
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end tell
delay 0.2
try
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end try
delay 0.2
do shell script "textutil -stdin -stdout -format html -convert rtf <<< '<span style=\"font: 16px arial; color:#000099\">a</span>' | pbcopy"
tell application "System Events"
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Welcome Craig
I'm wondering if the process of compressing the video for the DVD may be pulling out a dying pixel
Dead pixels occur in LCD Displays eventually (as on a laptop / computer display or the LCD screen of a camcorder) and not actually located on the software required to generate mpeg2. Might be a hardware related issue but very unlikely that it relates to software exclusively.
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Have I made myself clear?
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1. Refry it first.
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I am not seeing any change, except in the histogram, when I turn the CR-filter-component eye on and off.
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Hi,
We have just installed a A3 HP Laserjet CP5225 printer. All is well apart from when printing PDFs from acrobat pro. For some reason greys are coming out green and other colours are off. When I print from the Preview App it prints fine so I am assuming its an Acrobat Pro issue. When the same document is printed from within acrobat reader on a windows machine it prints fine.
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Cheers
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First the the Driver for the Mac(s) up to date for the OS you are using. Is it possible to have it installed on the server if its going to be used on a network.
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