Compatability with Canon 60D SLR camera

Getting the latest Canon 60D SLR camera for Christmas and want to use RAW editing with iPhoto 11 & Aperture 3. Anyone know if there are any compatability issues?

Same answer as your thread on iPhoto forum.
Regards
TD

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Compatability with Canon 60D SLR

Getting the latest Canon 60D SLR camera for Christmas and want to use RAW editing with iPhoto 11 & Aperture 3. Anyone know if there are any compatability issues?
Message was edited by: Giggleswick

This Apple document lists the compatible cameras as of Dec. 16, 2010: Mac OS X v10.6: Supported digital camera RAW formats
Happy Holidays

IPhoto compatibility with Canon G 15 camera?

Will iPhoto 9.5.1 take downloads from the Canon Powershot G 15 camera? If so, does anyone know if those photos can be imported into PhotoShop GS 15?

Are you shooting RAW? The RAW format of Canon Powershot G15 is supported by Mavericks, and thus by iPhoto 9.5.1.
See: OS X Mavericks: Supported digital camera RAW formats
And JPEGs are usually compatible from any camera, if the card is readable by the Mac.

My auto focus does not work with Canon 60D. Is it because of the camera or the lens?

My auto focus does not work with Canon 60D. Is it because of the camera or the lens?

I had the same problem. I make my AF work going to Menu / AF mode and selected Live mode. On Quick mode the AF did not work. I change the settings without realise it. Now my AF is working fine.

IMovie '08 compatibility with upper end HD cameras?

Hi All,
I am looking to buy a more upper end HD camera for a project I am working on. I like working in iMovie '08 but cannot find the information from camera manufacturers or from apple about the following cameras and their compatibility with iMovie '08.
Cameras of interest:
Canon XL H1
Canon XH G1
Canon XH A1
Panasonic AG-HVX200
Thanks All for the help and yes I know I should be working in final cut
Tim

The problem arise from HD format.
Imovie 8 wants a Mac format. It don't accept a MS-DOS format.

How to get super sharp pictures without stand with canon 60D?

When you mention a stand, are you referring to a tripod?

There are many things you can do... good techniques you can learn. These work with any camera, not just the 60D... 1. Use a tripod. I mean, why not, if it's possible? Alternatively, use a monopod. Or steady the camera and lens on a rock or fence or against a tree. When possible, use something to help steady your shot. Of course, it's not always possible! NOTE: An exception is if in a moving vehicle - an airplane or a car for example - it's usually just the opposite. Even if the vehicle is stopped, but the engine is running, you don't want the camera to touch any of the hard surfaces because vibrations will cause blurring. In effect, use your body to insulate and isolate the camera from the vehicle vibrations. 2. Use a faster shutter speed. Slow shutter speeds are just asking for camera shake blur. This may mean bumping up your ISO (use 400 instead of 100, for example). Or, you might need to use a larger aperture. Or you might need to do a little of both. 3. Longer focal length lenses are harder to hold steady than shorter. So a rule of thumb is that your shutter speed should be the reciprocal of your lens focal length. If you are using a 50mm lens, you should try not to use slower than 1/50 shutter speed. If you are using a 200mm lens, try not to go below 1/200. 400mm lens, keep to faster than 1/400. Actually, the 60D is a crop sensor camera, which magnifies susceptibility to camera shake at the same time it magnifies the image in the camera, so by rights you should use slightly faster shutter speeds. That 50mm lens on the crop camera behaves like an 80mm lens on a full frame camera and the rule of thumb regarding shutter speeds is actually based upon full frame. So you might want to keep to 1/80 or faster with that 50mm (but to be honest I manage to use the simple reciprocal with my crop cameras... and even slower... but I've had lots and lots of practice and use a number of stabilized lenses, as well). 4. Use stabilized lenses. Canon's IS (Sigma's OS and Tamron's VC) allow you to use somewhat slower shutter speeds and still get a steady shot. NOTE: if using a tripod, with some stabilizzed lenses you must manually turn off IS, otherwise in the absence of any movement the IS will get into sort of a feedback loop where it's actually inducing movement, instead of counteracting it. 5. Speaking of aperture, most lenses aren't at their sharpest wide open. Stop down a little. If yours is an f4 lens, try f5.6. My 50mm f1.4 lens is not at it's best at f1.4, but is quite good at f2. 6. However, at the same time try to avoid using too small apertures. Really small apertures such as f22 cause an effect known as "diffraction". This robs fine detail from images, giving a less sharp appearance. On your 60D, try to use no smaller than f11... maybe f16 at the smallest. Your images will thank you. 7. For handheld shots, learn good holding techniques until they are second nature. Cradle the lens in your left hand, with your right hand gripping the camera. Stand at a slight angle to your subject, one foot slightly ahead of the other and your feet about shoulder-width apart. Stand flat-footed. Keep your elbows tucked in fairly close to your torso. 8. Press the shutter release gently... don't stab at it or tap it. This is much like shooting a gun, where you gently pull the trigger rather than jerking it, to maintain accuracy. 9. If using slow shutter speeds (say 1/30 and below), first use a tripod... But also use a timer delay or remote release so that you aren't touching the camera at the time of exposure. Also use mirror lockup or Live View (which also does mirror lockup). This is so that the "bump" from the mirror and vibrations it causes don't blur the image. Mirror lockup is important on shutter speeds between about 2 seconds and 1/30. Faster and longer shutter speeds don't show problems from mirror "bump" vibrations. 10. Set your camera to a high frame rate and fire off a short burst of shots. The first image might be blurred, but others in the series are likely to be sharp as you hold the shutter button down for the duration of the burst. There are other tricks, but these are the major ones. Also don't mistake other causes of blur for camera shake. Even if you are doing everything right when using a slow shutter speeed, if the subject moves that can create blur in the image. It could be the wind blowing flowers or tree branches, even. Usually it's camera shake if the entire image is showing movement blur. Localized blur is usually due to subject movement. But it also can be a missed focus issue. Learn to tell them apart. I'd also recommend keeping your camera sensor clean, a dirty sensor can make an image look soft (shouldn't be a big deal with a 60D, which has a self-cleaning sensor that's pretty effective). And remove any filters from your lenses... they can and do cause image sharpness issues. In certain atmospheric effects, a polarizer or sky/haze filter might enhance sharpness... but in many situations any filter will costs some resolution. It might be very little under ideal conditions if the filter is very high quality, multi-coated. Or it might be a lot of loss, if the filter is lower quality and single coated or uncoated. Use a lens hood... it can prevent oblique light from striking your lens, which helps contrast and reduces flare. Might help with focus speed and accuracy, too.

Iphone compatibility with Canon Selphy?

I have a Canon Selphy model CP270. Ive been attempting to print some photos that I've taken with my iPhone through the Selphy; so far I've tried to copy the iPhone photos from my Windows 8 laptop to an SDHC card. This works perfectly fine when viewing the photos on my laptop but when I insert the SD card into my Selphy (or Canon Ixus 105 camera) only the photos that I've taken with the camera show up, not the ones I've taken on my iPhone.
Could anyone suggest a way to solve this issue so I can print my iPhone photos through my Selphy?
Could it be to do with the iPhone's EXIF?
Thanks in advance ~ Oli.
(p.s: I was not sure which community to post this is in - sorry!)

This sounds like a question about general Photoshop CS5 use. This forum is specifically for people using the Photoshop CS5 FXG feature with Flash Catalyst.
I recommend you post this question to one of the more general Photoshop forums:
http://forums.adobe.com/community/photoshop
Your question will get much wider exposure there, and you are more likely to get an answer from the Photoshop community.

1080p export from FCE with Canon 60d

I'm shooting 1080p 30fps on my Canon 60D DLSR. Everything imports fine and I can edit the footage without issue. However, I have been working with video effects and noticed that the videos I'm outputting are heavily interlaced. When I view the rendered footage in the Canvas, it looks great with no apparent interlacing. But when I export the video, it seems to be exporting it in an interlaced format and when there is fast motion, it looks terrible. Can someone review my settings and let me know where I'm going wrong? In Easy Setup I don't see a 1080p option, so I've selected one of the others.
Easy Setup:
AVCHD-Apple Intermediate Codec 1920x1080i60
Export Settings:
MP4
H.264
Data Rate: 5000kbits/sec optimized for Download
1920 x 1080 HD Letterbox
Frame Rate 29.97
Key Frame every 24 frames
192kbps audio
Thanks!!!

DJ,
It looks like the OP is about six months old, but I would have to ask how you are getting the clip from the 60D into FCE and what codec is. The 60D records in H.264 which is not compatible with FCE (just taking a guess as to where you should begin looking).
If you post your sequence settings and your clip properties maybe someone can get a better understanding of what the full issue is.
Marc
Message was edited by: Marc135791967 for spelling

IPhoto 6.0.6 compatibility with Canon powershot A530

I want to use my USB Cable to download the picture in my computer. Nothing happens. So i downloaded the canon software, now i can have it but i don't want this sofware... Is there a way to connect directly with IPhoto to use the camera like USB Key. (It will be great).
Right now i use USB adapter for my memory card to have the picture.

Good morning. I can tell you that the Powershot A620 works perfect with all my Macs. I've traveled to Ireland twice with it and to the West Cost and the pictures were and still absolutely stunning. I even used iMovie to make a little vid log of our trip to Ireland and they play it here in my local pub. People are asking the owners were did they buy the Ireland DVD? I'm getting a big head over those photos.
Here is a link to some of them as seen on Google Earth:
http://www.panoramio.com/user/159121
I think it is safe to say you won't go wrong with a Canon. That model has photo stabilization if I remember correctly. I don't have that but I wish I did.
Good luck.
Dan Reilly
Sarasota, FL

Photoshop CS5 - Compatibility with "Canon Easy Photo Print Pro"

Hi,
I have just downloaded and installed the trial version of Photoshop CS5, only to discover that in the Automate option (Under Files), Canon's Easy PhotoPrint Pro is no longer listed.
Canon have advised that it is not their problem.
I found that with Photoshop CS3, that this method of printing, provided most accurate colours,
I would be interested in other subscribers, who have CS5 and who print with the Canon Pixma Pro 9000,
(1) Have you found a method of using Canon Easy Photo Print Pro, and if not
(2) What settings do you find give the best results from your printer - What options do you select in the print dialogue box, etc.
Brian

Hi,
Thanks for this information - Canon came back to me with a similar responce.
Pending a resolution, which allows something similar to Canon's Easy PhotoPrint Pro to be installed as an "Add-in" to Photoshop CS5, I plan to allow Photoshop to manage colours.
This requires you to disable the printer from managing colours.
For those who have a similar problem and are not sure, how to disable Colour Management in the Pixma Pro 9000, the following is a quote from Canon:
Thank you for contacting Canon Support. Your reference/ticket number is 1031274.
We are sorry to hear about the problems you are having with your Canon Pro9000.
Please go to the 'Printing Preferences' and then select the 'Main' tab.
Here you will see a 'Colour / Intensity' option, make sure this is set
to 'Manual'. The 'Set' button will now appear active, press this button
and then go to the 'Matching' tab. Once here make sure 'Colour Correction'
is set to 'None'. This will deactivate the colour management completely.
Should you have any further queries, please do not hesitate to contact us
on the telephone number below ensuring to quote your Canon Helpdesk ticket
number noted in the subject line above. Alternatively, you can reply directly
to this email by navigating to the link below.
Best regards,
Wayne Hudson – Canon Support Centre
Tel.: 0844 369 0100 Select option 2
I hope that will be of help.
Brian
Message was edited by: bht-at-Home

Final Cut Pro HD (4.5) compatability with Canon HV10

I got a great deal and read reviews from Mac sources regarding the Canon HV10. There was some question about the camcorder, but as an introduction into the world of HDV, I thought I could work with it for my specific needs and I did get a pretty decent price.
BUT, iMovie in my OSX Leopard which I just installed recognizes the camera BUT it comes in all bright green and pink even though the playback in the cam looks normal, and Final Cut Pro HD (4.5) just won't see the HV10, even with the HDV/DV cable they require you to purchase.
Do I have to update Final Cut Pro? Is this something that is just not going to work with the FCP 4.5?
Any help would be seriously appreciated.
Thanks so much.
Rod

FCP4.5 does not do HDV. You need either iMovie8, FCE 4 or FCStudio 2 for that codec.
x

Compatibility with Canon XL2

Hi there,
I'm looking to hire the Canon XL2 for use with imovie 08 and just wanted to ask if anyone has had experiences good or bad in using them both together? I have a mac mini 1.83GHz Intel Core 2 Duo and also wanted to know if this is sufficient for the edit? Any thoughts?
Thanks in advance
Bungalowbill

I have some experience with the XL2, and here's how I cured the fuzzy problem myself, though this may not be your same issue:
The XL2 is very (and I mean VERY) light sensitive. You need just the right amount of gain, the right color filtration, and exposure. Since the viewfinder is a low resolution, it will not show these properties well. In iMovie, however, your resolution is large enough to increase the clarity, and so this is what you do. Hook up your camera via firewire (or what have you), with lens attached, and set the room ambiance to what you're aiming for in your picture (light, dark, heavy shadows, what have you). There are 3 things that will adjust the quality--Gain, Exposure, and Filter. These can all be found in the guide, but for a quick shot, the gain and filter can be modified via two dials at the bottom of the XL2's body, below the item selection wheel. The exposure is adjustable via the viewfinder options menu using 'Exp. Lock', a bar showing - and + at each end will give you a general idea of where your 'exposure' amount is. High exposure in bright areas will cause the image to look almost pure white, and in dark areas will cause noise (the 'grainy' effect). Vice-versa, an exposure set too low will make the color desaturated and gray, no matter the lighting. For me, I set the exposure around the middle, the gain at auto (or manually, I'll have it at either -3 or +3, no further than that), and the filter needs to be apropriate for your surroundings (they have outside light, inside light, night, et cetera) I know it sounds choppy, but 'just mess with it' until you get what you want.
Editing is rather easy from there. You set it to VCR, import your footage as you see fit (Using Firewire, a whole hour can take only seconds on a fast mac). Edit from there using whatever program you've got (most of them make it pretty easy) and voila.
As an aside, for most of you it won't be a necessity, but if you use a macbook laptop or anything with under a 240 gig hard drive, if you intend to be a serious movie producer (which, by simply owning the XL2, you must be), you'll need an external hard drive to save all your stuff. You can get over 320 gigs for just about 100 dollars, and obviously a whole lot more for just a small increment more. I suggest this because for professional movie production you need high-res video, which can take a lot of space up very quickly.

FCPX with Canon XF Series Cameras - MXF wrappers

Canon XF300 but same format for other XF cams
Just doesn't work - no way to import.
Maybe have to wait for Canon to write something.
Works fine with FCP7 and natively with Adobe Premiere.
The majority of FCPX is geared to iMovie, iMovie, iMovie
What a let down
Glad I haven't bought yet - (tried a friend's)

As far as I know, FCP X is a great video editing software, but it also has many problems about movies importing.
Sometimes, Log and Transfer (Capture) can't work well with Camcorders/camers, so we have to download and insatll a Mac video converter to help us to convert footages to ProRes for FCP.

Compatability with Canon FS11 and FS10

With SD card? DO you have any experience?

This Apple document lists the compatible cameras as of Dec. 16, 2010: Mac OS X v10.6: Supported digital camera RAW formats
Happy Holidays

RAW Compatibility with Canon 450D

I have a Canon 450D. I believe the RAW format is not sRAW but the usual RAW (pls correct me if I am wrong). There has been a recent update (May) that is supposed to extend aperture's RAW compatibility to the 450D. However, for me, the files still show up as 'unsupported file format'. For info, the trial version of Lightroom imports these fine. Is there something I am missing or is the update not doing what it is supposed to?

Support for the 450D was added in May 2008, not May this year.
http://support.apple.com/downloads/DigitalCamera_RAW_Compatibility_Update_21
As far as I know, the 450D doesn't have the option of shooting in SRAW format anyway, so if your OS is up to date I don't know why you're getting that message.
Ian

Compatability with Canon 60D SLR camera

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