Configuring WRT160n router to maximize range and speed

I have just bought and installed a WRTn160 router. I used the default configuration settings. Unfortunately, I realized that on my second floor, one computer (g) did not pick up the signal and the other computer (n) was extremely slow. On the contrary my old LinkSys (b) router worked just fine with both machines. I then changed the 'Wide' channel to 20MHz and used channel 6 (the default was 'Auto'). This improved the speed on the second floor considerably. My questions are:
1- How do I know if the computer supporting 802.11n is actually using it? The manual indicates that 20MHz is for b/g only.
2- If this configuration is supporting b/g only, how can I configure the router to support (n) computer while still supporting the (g) computer and maintaining range and speed?
3- How can I test for bandwidth between my desktop and the two other wireless computers? Currently, I only test bandwidth using my ISP. Needless to say, this is limited to bandwidth for Internet connectivity.
4- Advertisement for n routers indicate increased speed and range. This has not been my experience, in fact to the contrary, range dramatically shrunk. Is this limited range a configuration issue? a WRT160n router issue? or a limitation with the technology (802.11n)?

I would suggest you to readjust the wireless settings of the router...
On the setup page,click on the Wireless tab,Change the channel to 11 and click on save settings..Under Wireless tab,click on Advance Wireless Settings tab and Change N document.write("Transmission Rate")Transmission Rate to 15-130Mbps, Change the Beacon Interval to 75, Fragmentation Threshold to 2304,RTS Threshold to 2304 and Click on save settings... Under Security tab,uncheck " document.write("Filter Anonymous Internet Requests")Filter Anonymous Internet Requests"...Power cycle the network and check the result.

Similar Messages

Yoga 13 Wireless Fix - far better range and speed using 5G Linksys AE6000 .11ac usb nub

$60 Linksys model AE6000 802.11ac USB hub has made my Yoga 13 a useful device. Benefits are as follows, along with a quick "how to" tutorial.
Far better range from my access point (80 feet with reasonable speed on Linksys vs. 30 feet using built-in Realtek WLAN card.
Significantly faster speed 55 meg/sec using 5G, compared to stock Yoga/Realtek's 2.4 GHz-limited 14-16 meg/second download speeds - both tests done same day using Ookla Speedtest.net)
No longer crashing after resume (I suspect the crashing that began with Win 8.1 is due to driver issue)
Recognizes both 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz WLAN networks (Windows 8.1 failed to recognize 5GHz signal until I backdated the Linksys WLAN driver to use Windows 7 driver).
TUTORIAL / STEPS:
Turn off (or at a minimum - review before downloating) windows updates - otherwise Win8.1/Yoga will over-write the good driver you're about to install and revert you back to slow WLAN performance. Give Microsoft 6-12 months & maybe they'll get the drivers right for their POS Win 8.1.
Create a restore point.
Download & the Windows 7 (yes, seven) drivers to a folder on your Yoga.
Then open the following folder:
C\Windows\System32\drivers
Locate the file named "netr28ux.sys" and move it to a new folder you create on your desktop (for safe keeping)
Download the Windows 7 x64 drivers for the Linksys AE6000 and the installation/setup program from the Linksys support pages here
http://support.linksys.com/en-us/support/adapters/AE6000
Extract those Win7 x64 files (including the netr28ux.sys file) into their own folder, then copy the extracted files to the
C\Windows\System32\drivers folder.
Run the Linksys AE6000's little setup utility, insert the little nub into your USB port, complete running the setup utility, type in (or select) your network, type in your password & select your encryption type, and you should be in good shape.
I turn my onboard "WLAN 1" card off using the right-swipe/charms, and the Linksys shows up as "WLAN 2" with the networks it's picking up.
CAVEATS:
The Linksys AE6000 occupies one your USB ports, but the Linksys AE6000 seems to have the smallest size (barely 1" sticking out) and was rated the fastest of its size by PC Magazine. Very good performance for .11n and .11ac environments.
This mod may not be for everyone. I was able to barely tolerate the Yoga's wireless limitations since purchasing in May, but the Win 8.1 rollout (along with what must be craptastic drivers) was the last straw. The system began behavng erratically, crashing after resume, and wireless was even worse (speed degraded to 1 meg/sec or less up and download, within an hour after a reboot).
I have not checked the impact of this nub on battery life. I suspect it may be a little worse than stock, but it may be a reasonable tradeoff for me to actually be able to travel more than 30 feet from my router/access point (and have YouTube stream in FHD without stutters/crashes).
BACKGROUND:
After Windows 8.1 update, my Yoga 13's wireless performance went from barely adequate to useless (crashed on resume, speed degradation an hour after fresh boot, etc.).
I'm sharing this info because I've enjoyed this machine's other assets so much. It's too bad we can't replace the Realtek WLAN card, and obviously Lenovo though enough of our issues suffered that they chose a different card for the Yoga 2 (although the antenna design still may be partly to blame for some of those performance issues as well). Love the keyboard, display, etc. and can put up with the fan noise (if someone has a fix for fan noise though, please post to this thread or point me to the fix).
Best of luck with this potential (relatively inexpensive) work-around. It's not as ideal as switching out the internal card, but I'm pretty pleased so far. If there are other wireless fixes, please share on this thread.
Thanks,
Stanford

Having used this thing for a couple of weeks now, I'm still amazed at how great the network performance is and how it's transformed my Yoga 13 into a near-instant device around the house (incl range that extends to the garage and perimeters of front & back yards. And traveling is pretty phenomenal too - great speeds at the hotels we've visited (instead of having to tether my 4G phone because Lenovo's weak-sauce wireless couldn't hang onto a 1-bar connection for 3 minutes).
It's a small tradeoff in having a 1" by 1/8" inch "nub" stick out of a USB port, but one of the best $60 upgrades I've ever done. Highly recommended.

TS1398 My iPod 4g is getting better wifi range and speed at long distance than my iPhone 4s

I just tested my range had the bolt on the same speed test server one in my left hand the other in my right .I did not do test simultaneously. I had 1 bar on the iPhone 4s and 2 bars on the I pod . I was going throw one wall and was aprox 115 feet away from netgear n900 router did several test iPod 4g would get 12-14 Mbps down 3mbps up .IPhone 2-4 mbps down and 1-3 Mbps up.
At close range the iPhone can do my max upload and 30-40 Mbps down
iPod full upload and a 16-24 Mbps down.
My question , does the iPhone sacrifice speed Over range or do I just have a bad wi-Fi antenna.

Seems like this a pretty common issue. You can revert back to 2.2.1, by using Restore in iTunes, it should still be on your computer;
youraccount/Library/iTunes/iPod Software Updates/iPod2,12.2.1_5H11aRestore.ipsw
or do a search on your computer for Restore.ipsw
Do a backup of your ipod, you did this before you installed 3.0 right?
You then need to put your ipod into Device Firmware Update mode or DFU, try this link; http://bit.ly/8pIWL or google DFU mode, there is a you tube video as well.
Hit option & restore in iTunes and choose the 2.2.1 firmware, and let it go through it's process, will take a few minutes.
If you try to just restore it will choose the 3.0 firmware or give you an error.
If this seems to complicated you will have to wait for 3.0.1 which I hope will come out soon.
Good luck

Range and speed on N

I have a WRT150N router and my computer has an N adaptor. I had issues with the range, so I changed the settings to Wide Radio Band, channel 11. Now, the range works fine, but I notice a drop in speeds as I move away from the router, which I know is normal. The issue is that while when I'm near the router I get around 130mbps, but that drops to around 30mbps in the bedroom. Assuming I can't move the router, is there a way I can boost the signal (whether by software or new hardware) so that I can get better coverage at the higher speeds? I also have a computer with a G adaptor (which seems to work fine at this point).
Thanks.

Well try upgrading the firmware of the router & keep on holding tightly
the reset button in such a way that power light is blinking on the
router & then do a complete network power cycle i.e., unplug the power
cables from the modem & from the router & then plug in the power cable
to the modem first once all the lights are solid green you could plug
in the power cable to the router & check out it will definately work!!
Open the setup page of router using 192.168.1.1 then put in the
password as admin...all you need to do is do the wireless settings such
as Radio Band Frequency to Standard 20 MHZ frequency,channel to 11.
Also,the advanced wireless settings to Beacon Interval=50,Frag
thres=2306 & Rts thres=2307 & then uncheck a Block Anonymous Internet
Requests & it will definately work!!!
Also, to expand the range you could the wireless Range Expander.

Which is better for range and speed of wifi, time capsule A1254 or the new airport express? I don't need the hard drive aspect of the time capsule. Thanks!

Thanks for any help with this.

You are asking several different questions. If you need to store your photos, music, and movies on an external volume, you certainly can. Any externally connected hard disk drive will work, connected either directly to your Mac or to your Time Capsule as a shared volume.
You should not rely upon using that as a backup device though. Although you certainly may use it for both purposes, it is a better idea to have dedicated backup devices for a variety of reasons not limited to redundancy. You would not want to simultaneously lose all your pictures as well as your backup. If they are all on the same device, that could happen. Furthermore, a backup cannot back up the volume on which it is running.
As for adding an Extreme or Express, using its LAN port for your iMac, and then enable Internet sharing so you can effectively use the iMac as a "hotspot", you can do that too, but I am unclear on what benefit you believe this arrangement would convey for you.
An Extreme's Guest network is separate from its Main network; that is the reason for having it.

Router as Repeater / Range Extender

I use a 2-wire 2700HGV Business Hub as my router and cannot change this as I need Broadband Talk which is not available on the Home Hub 3.
I purchased an iPad for my wife for Christmas and she wants to use it in the kitchen where reception is virtually nil.
The house is not suitable for 'wired' connections so I want to configure a router as a range extender - I have a couple of Voyagers, Home Hubs 2 and 3 and a spare 2-wire [this won't configure according to the manufacturer].
Does anyone have a step by step idea on how I might configure one of the routers as a repeater?
The Devolo products [power line] won't work as the location of the main router and the kitchen are on separate circuits with different meters. The house is 450 years old and the builders didn't forsee the internet!
Any and all help greatly appreciated.

Use a universal wireless repeater. I have suggested and described this to a number of people here, and it has worked.
See http://community.bt.com/t5/BB-Speed-Connection-Issues/Extending-the-range-of-the-Home-Hub-3/m-p/3337...
This refers to the home hub 3, but the device http://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-Link-TL-WA701ND-150Mbps-Wireless-Access/dp/B002YETVVE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&...
Works with any wireless network and is not expensive. If you need any help then let me know.
There are comprehensive instructions here http://community.bt.com/t5/BB-Speed-Connection-Issues/Connecting-a-TP-Link-WA-701nd-to-the-BT-home-h...
Assuming that the business hub is on the same subnet as the normal home hub.
There are some useful help pages here, for BT Broadband customers only, on my personal website.
BT Broadband customers - help with broadband, WiFi, networking, e-mail and phones.

Acceptable range of speeds for this line.

Dear Forum,
I have for many months now been on the phone to Bt with regards to the fact that when I run the speedtester the results for the acceptable range of speeds for this line dose not match up to BT's own table within their broadband speed wizard. Below please find the latest speedtester result and the table taken from said area.
Test1 comprises of Best Effort Test: -provides background information.
Download Speed
1825 Kbps
0 Kbps 2000 Kbps
Max Achievable Speed
Download speedachieved during the test was - 1825 Kbps
For your connection, the acceptable range of speeds is 400-2000 Kbps.
Additional Information:
Your DSL Connection Rate :2528 Kbps(DOWN-STREAM), 448 Kbps(UP-STREAM)
IP Profile for your line is - 2000 Kbps
Write down your test results and use the table below to check that your throughput speed is in the right range for your connection speed.
Connection rate downstream test result:     Throughput speed you should expect:
288Kbps                                                 50Kbps to 250Kbps
288Kbps to 576Kbps                                        50Kbps to 500Kbps
576Kbps to 1152Kbps               200Kbps to 1000Kbps
1152Kbps to 2272Kbps                                       400Kbps to 2000Kbps
2272Kbps to 8128Kbps               600Kbps to 7150Kbps
I keep getting told that they can't change the acceptable range of speeds for this line to read 600Kbps to 7150Kbps as this was originally set when I first took broadband from BT, but surely they can rerun the test's that set up this configuration so that the acceptable range of speeds for this line reads as above.
I used to, prior to a length of main cable being replaced back in May of this year, between the exchange and the street box, get a DSL of between 2648Kbps and 3020Kbps. When the cable was replaced, they replaced 9Guage with 5Guage. Also it has been found out by two engineer's that about 325Mtrs from my property that there is a sudden drop of 1000Kbps. Both BT and Openreach seem to think that this is acceptable. I don't and niether do my neiboughers, who are also affected.
Please get back to me with a reasonable answer to this. Not like when I dealt with Mods in the past and they would only answer one part of the problem.
Thanks in advance.

The bit loading is not great on that liine ....
And it's little to do with the metallic path specification you referred to in another post.
One thing is certain, Openreach operate to strict codes of practice, and don't just install any old wire ....
The noise margin is not bad, target is 6db ... but the problem there is that you have a high forward error count
which demonstrates a profound level of interleave, which does cause some latency.
It's the bitloading that's causing the high error count.
Sometimes a RF3 filter, fitted by Openreach can cure some of this ... sometimes not.
But the CRC, cyclic redundancy checks, are re-transmitted packets, and therefore do absorb bandwidth.
Also the errored second count is high, these are seconds which have seen bad error rates.
I don't think you'd benefit by going into the test socket either, as most errors are downstream and margin is
fair, the CRC up errors are false, a result of poor scripting in the hub firmware.
You could try buying quality line filters, or using a v1 splitter socket face, but to be honest, your line is your line,
and that's why the broadband is line adaptive ... to cater for all quality levels of lines.
Yours is not the best I've seen.
You could try a reset at midday, often gaining a higher sync rate, as much as 400-500kbps.
No more than 3 resets in 24 hours, DLM will downgrade the IP.
Glad to have helped you ... perhaps not what you wanted to hear though.

EA3500 - Terrible range and internet connection drops

Mainly disappointed in the range which was supposed to have been improved so was disappointed when it wasn't any better. My house isn't big at all and the 5ghz barely made it from one end of the house to the other. Also, the Cloud Connect firmware. When my Internet connection went down I was not able to log into the router to see what was up. I restored the non-Cloud Connect firmware which I was then able to access the router admin functions.
I temporarily used my old WRT54GS until I got the Airport and that older router gave better range and was more solid than the EA3500. The Airport Extreme has great range and offers a solid connection without the need to reboot the router frequently.
I appreciate you taking the time to ask. I am non-biased so just relaying my experience the way it was.
PS - bring the WRT54 routers back and add a wireless-N radio and I think you'd have one heck of a product!

Have you tried tweaking the wireless settings of the router? You may try that as a first workaround. For the 5Ghz wireless settings, you may change the channel on it and set the security to wpa2 personal. For the 2.4Ghz wireless settings, you may try the following: channel width: 20mhz only ; channel: 1,3,6,or 9, security: wpa2 personal. If tweaking the wireless settings won't work, I suggest that you reset the router and reconfigure the settings on it either using the cd or doing it manually. if you decide to do it manually, these links should help you: http://www6.nohold.net/Cisco2/ukp.aspx?vw=1&docid=0ff4c94586a345d082828ec2161aaecf_3686.xml&pid=80&r... (Setting up a Linksys router with Cable Internet service) and http://www6.nohold.net/Cisco2/ukp.aspx?vw=1&docid=20ee1457387f40178cd5f41d4b585db4_3687.xml&pid=80&r...(Setting up a Linksys router for DSL Internet connection).

Remotely Access router 2811 via AUX and modem speed configuration

I have got 2811 router that is connected to analogue modem (56000), and my PC is connected to another analogue modem (33000)
The intial configuration for the router was :
Router2811#show run | begin line aux
line aux 0
exec-timeout 20 0
password xxx
logging synchronous
login
modem InOut
stopbits 1
flowcontrol hardware
Router2811#show line
Tty Line Typ Tx/Rx A Modem Roty AccO AccI Uses Noise Overruns Int
* 0 0 CTY - - - - - 0 0 0/0 -
* 1 1 AUX 9600/9600- inout - - - 0 0 10/0 -
322 322 VTY - - - - - 0 0 0/0 -
323 323 VTY - - - - - 0 0 0/0 -
324 324 VTY - - - - - 0 0 0/0 -
325 325 VTY - - - - - 0 0 0/0 -
326 326 VTY - - - - - 0 0 0/0 -
Line(s) not in async mode -or- with no hardware support:
2-321
It did not work when remotely I tried to login to the router !!! it kept disconne
What I did was this :
Router2811#config ter
Router2811(config)#line 1
Router2811(config-line)# modem autoconfiguration discovery
The router automatically discover modem's speed 115200 and replaced the 9600 in the configuration above.
Router2811#show run | begin line aux
line aux 0
exec-timeout 20 0
password 7 1040074B5240130C
logging synchronous
login
modem InOut
speed 115200,,,,,,,,this has been added to the configuration as well
stopbits 1
flowcontrol hardware
Router2811#show line
Tty Line Typ Tx/Rx A Modem Roty AccO AccI Uses Noise Overruns Int
* 0 0 CTY - - - - - 0 0 0/0 -
* 1 1 AUX 115200/115200- inout - - - 0 0 10/0,,,,,before it was 9600
322 322 VTY - - - - - 0 0 0/0 -
323 323 VTY - - - - - 0 0 0/0 -
324 324 VTY - - - - - 0 0 0/0 -
325 325 VTY - - - - - 0 0 0/0 -
326 326 VTY - - - - - 0 0 0/0 -
Line(s) not in async mode -or- with no hardware support:
2-321
Now remotely I was able to access the router.
But when I tried to reduce the speed from 115200 to 56000 (modem speed), my modem got disconnected and then I reduced the speed to 9600, but same problem happened ( modem got disconnected ).
Modem got disconnected after I received these funny characters :
Ã¦â¬Ã¦â¬fâ¬Ëâ¬Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â
Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â â â¬â â¬Ã¦â¬
Ã¦â¬Ã¦â¬fâ¬Ëâ¬Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦
â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â â â¬â â¬Ã¦â¬
Ã¦â¬Ã¦â¬fâ¬Ëâ¬Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦â Ã¦
â Ã¦â Ã¦â â â¬â â¬Ã¦â¬Ëâ¬â¬~ffâ¬ËÃ¾fâ ``fËâ â¬â â¬Ã¦â¬Ëâ¬â¬â¬ËËfxfÅ¾ Å¾Ã¦â Ã¸ËffÅ¾fx â¬â¬â¬~Ë

What I did is this :
I dropped the PC's speed from 115200 to 57600,and it worked without seeing funny characters.
I have not touch the speed on the router side, I left it as it is.
What be the case if I reduce the AUX's rooter speed ? When I tried to change it by doing this :
Router2811#config line 1
Router2811(config-line)#speed 56000
Failed to ,,,,,,I do not remember right now
Why it gave me failed error message !!!!!
Thanks

N Ultra Range Pluse WRT160n router

I can't connect my N Ultra Range Pluse WRT160n router wirelessly to my laptop.It showing undefined network only & it IP address taking is starting with 169 and it is not asking the network share key also . But I can connect to another laptop & my laptop can connect another wireless connection .kindly reply me what is the problem?
one more problem i have when i try to connect wirelessly to another laptop it is asking pin only not asking the key
kindly reply me
Solved!
Go to Solution.

I think you need to make some wireless changes on your Router. I think this will solve the problem.
Open an Internet Explorer browser page on your wired computer(desktop).In the address bar type - 192.168.1.1 and press Enter...Leave username blank & in password use admin in lower case...
For Wireless Settings, please do the following : -
Click on the Wireless tab
-Here select manual configuration...Wireless Network mode should be mixed...
-Provide a unique name in the Wireless Network Name (SSID) box in order to differentiate your network from your neighbours network...
- Set the Radio Band to Standard-20MHz and change the Standard channel to 11-2.462GHz...Wireless SSID broadcast should be Enabled and then click on Save Settings...
Please make a note of Wireless Network Name (SSID) as this is the Network Identifier...
For Wireless Security : -
Click on the Sub tab under Wireless > Wireless Security...
Change the Wireless security mode to WPA, For Encryption, select AES...For Passphrase input your desired WPA Key. For example , MySecretKey , This will serve as your network key whenever you connect to your wireless network. Do NOT give this key to anyone.
NOTE : Passphrase should be more that 8 characters...
Click on Advanced Wireless Settings
Change the Beacon Interval to 75 >>Change the Fragmentation Threshold to 2304, Change the RTS Threshold to 2304 >>Click on "Save Settings"...
Now see if you can locate your Wireless Network and attempt to connect...
OR.
While connecting to your Wireless Network, If it ask you for the Pin number, Flip your Router upside down, and you will find the 8 digit Pin number, note down the pin number and when prompted type and Pin number and click on Connect and you should be able to go online wirelessly from your Computer.

Connection problems with PALM TX and WRT160N router

I purchased a WRT160N wireless router. My computers connected with no problems, but when I attempted to connect my Palm TX I ran into a bunch of problems. At first the Palm would not even find the network. I eventually was able to configure the router so that the Palm can now find the network, but it still will not connect. I have removed the security from the network and rebooted both with no luck. I read that I am supposed to set the type to b/g mixed, frequency to 40 mghz, the wide channel to 6 and the other channel to 8. I was able to set the b/g mixed, the frequency to 20, the wide channel defaults to 3 (I cannot change this) and the other channel to 8. Any ideas?

Changing Router to b/g Mixed fixed the problem.
I had the same trouble. I've been trying to connect my Palm TX to my brand new Linksys WRT160N for a day and a half. Tried EVERYTHING....SSID Broadcast on/off, WEP, WPA, Security all off, nothing helped. I just switched the router settings to B/G Mixed. The TX connected immediately.
B/G will be fine, even though the router's optimum performance is N. My broadband operates at 25Mbs. 802.11g has a transfer rate of up to 54Mbs where N is well over 100. "G" will easily keep up with my internet's best speed. And I can still Wi-Fi with my TX at 802.11b (11Mbs).
I can temporarily switch to "N" if I ever want to transfer huge amounts of data between my "N" Laptop and my Desktop PC.
Message Edited by mgordonb on 12-16-2008 06:25 PM

Very slow download speeds with new laptop with windows seven- WRT160N Router

Just bought a new Laptop with windows 7 and of course wireless. Download speeds are horrible (0.2 mbs) and upload speeds are normal for me ( 8mbs) Have a wrt160N Wire less router. Older laptop and desktop work fine with normal( around (8mbs) downloads and uploads.
How do I fix this?

Do you have QOS enabled in your router? Did you try plugging the win7 laptop directly and check the speed?

Actiontec Mi424WR Rev. I versus Rev. D -- range and connection drops and speed

Hello. I'm trying to figure out why the Rev. I is so much worse than the Rev. D for range and maintaining persistent connections at 30'+ in my home (two-story, single family). I have two smart phones, one tablet and a Blu-ray player, all 802.11n capable. I used the Rev. D for a few years with not many Internet problems overall (wired or wireless). I recently I got two Rev. I routers -the first was replaced after malfunctioning and overheating- but they both exhibited the same range problem. The Rev. D can usually keep a connection to the far reaches of my home - an upstairs bathroom about 60' away (straight line) through four obstructions (walls and floor). In that bathroom the speed test was slow of course (~1.8 Mbps) but the connection persisted for several minutes without dropping and reconnecting to the router even once. But the Rev. I could not keep a consistent connection to the tablet in the kitchen at only 40' away through only 2 walls (around two bends). So I had to move the tablet a little closer within the kitchen - 30' away to stream video consistently well. On my cell phone at 30' away I had to turn off the auto network switch to 4G just to keep a persistent connection to the Rev. I. With the Rev. D I never had any dropped connection anywhere in the kitchen on the tablet or the phones. Here's what I've learned so far in my own tests and reading other people's experiences here and elsewhere on the web. Any additional insight would be helpful. -- I have read that the signal strength of the Rev. I was reduced for security concerns. I can verify with a Wi-Fi scanner app on my phone that the signal strength is about 2-3dB less (about half as strong) for the Rev. I starting at about 25' away. That shouldn't necessarily cause the connection to the Rev. I router to drop and reconnect so often after 40' of distance. Any ideas why the connection drops so easily and often? The signal strength at 0 distance (the antenna touching the phone) was about identical for both revisions. -- I have read that the Rev. I wireless mode should be in either performance (n only) or mixed (b/g/n) to maintain better connections but either setting made little difference. I have always kept the Rev. D router in mixed mode (b/g). From the antenna signal strength test above, I discovered only one antenna on the Rev. I router sends a signal so I doesn't seem like there is any beamforming being done in performance (n only) mode which is disappointing. Any idea why beamforming is not enabled? Is the second antenna even used on the Rev. I? -- I have read that the antennas are too small on the Rev. I and a bigger antenna will help. That part I know is false especially if the longer antenna's impedance doesn't match the router's antenna port. The "ideal" antenna length at 2.4GHz is about 2.5 inches and the Rev. I antenna looks that long. It seems inside the Rev. D antenna is a cable or some waveguide (the thicker, bottom 5" of the antenna) which might help reduce interference by moving the actual antenna portion of the Rev. D away from the router housing, the power cable and the data cables. -- Sitting 10 feet away from the router, I didn't notice any difference on speed tests. It was topping out at about 15-18Mbps for either router revision. So the whole point of having an 802.11n router for faster speed is moot. And at greater distances (40'+) I can't get a reliable connection so the Rev. D wins by default. If anyone has any ideas to make the Rev. I better I would like to try them. Verizon didn't want the Rev. D router back so I have both revisions to use. Thanks!

I finally got the Quantum Gateway router (FiOS-G1100 rev 1.03 firmware 0.17.52) and it works great on both 2.4GHz and 5GHz. In most areas of my home and on both bands I tested about 42 Mbps up/down using the Ookla speedtest app (my internet speed is 50/50 Mbps and I test about 58 Mbps using a wired connection). Previously with the Rev. D I was getting about 18 Mbps up/down in most areas of my home. In the farthest place in my home from the router (an upstairs bathroom) I get 22 Mbps up and 42 down which is impressive considering I was only getting 2Mbps with the Rev. D. The Quantum router has a similar signal strength profile as the old Rev D - about -18 dBm right near the router and about -70dBm to -80 dBm in the bathroom furthest from the router (55 feet straight line that goes up one floor and through three walls). I used the Wifi Analyzer app to see the signal strength. Not many of my neighbors have 5 GHz routers so there are still lots of free channels up there. I also noticed the Quantum router has a power setting so the power can be turned down if someone is in an apartment or condo. But for me the lots in my neighborhood are 1/2 acre so I'll leave the power setting at 100%. I like having good speed in the far reaches of my home without using a repeater or extender.

How to install and configure SAP Router

Dear SAP Expert !
I want to install SAP Router but i dont know the SAP router package is allocated on DVD ? what is the DVD number ?
If you already configure SAP router please let me know how to configure ?

Hello Thao
what is th exact issue that are u facing.
The account must be the administartor of the machine where u are installing SAPROUTER.Make sure you are following the correct steps as follows:
Downloading necessary software components from SAP Service Marketplace
1. Login to the SAP Service Marketplace with the Service Marketplace at using
the USERID/PASSWORD which was assigned for your installation.
2. Change the alias to www.service.sap.com/tcs to downloaded the SAP
cryptographic software. Select the correct SAPcrptographic software
depending on your saprouter operating system as shown below.
3. You must have the sapcar.exe in order to extract the SAP cryptographic
software file.
4. With the command of u201Csapcar -xvf xxxxxxx.saru201D, /ntintel directory would be
created and the following files would be extracted.
(Example C:/saprouter/ntintel)
( when the Microsoft Windows NT Intel version is downloaded)
C:/saprouter/ntintel/sapcrypto.dll
C:/saprouter/ntintel/sapgenpse.exe
C:/saprouter/ticket
Issue of Electronic Certificate
5. It is necessary to define the environment variable for u201CSECUDIRu201D and
u201CSNC_LIBu201D under system account.
Window NT environment variable setup :
Right-clicked the icon of you computer
Property -> details -> environment variable
SECUDIR = < Directory name >
Example. Variable name : SECUDIR
Variable value
: C:/saprouter/SNC_LIB = < Directory name >
Example. Variable name : SNC_LIB
Variable value : C:/saprouter/ntintel/sapcrypto.dll
UNIX
<path_to_libsecude>/<name_of_sapcrypto_library>
Windows
NT,
<drive>:/<path_to_libsecude>/<name_of_sapcrypto_library>
Windows
2000
6. Check if the environment of the user running saprouter contains the
environment variable SNC_LIB.
UNIX
Printenv
Windows NT
System environment Variable
7. You may now apply for a SAProuter certificate from the SAP Trust Center
Service of SAP service marketplace
http://service.sap.com/tcs
> SAP Trust Center Service in Detail
> SAProuter Certificates
SAProuter Certificate "Apply Now"
Click the button.
8. Please take note of your "Distinguished Name"
Please refer to the example above
-SAPRouter Name
: JPL50020586
-Distinguished Name
CN=JPL50020586, OU=0000036946, OU=SAProuter, O=SAP, C=DE
Then, clicked the "Continue" button.
9. Execute the following command in the /saprouter/ntintel
directory in order to generate your certificate to be exchanged with SAP.
sapgenpse get_pse -v -r certreq -p local.pse "Distinguished Name"
Example
sapgenpse get_pse u2013v -r certreq -p local.pse "CN=JPL50020586, OU=0000036946,
OU=SAProuter, O=SAP, C=DE"
Enter the PIN number. (you may enter any PIN Number you wish.)
Please enter PIN :
Please re-enter PIN :
<- you must use the same PIN Number as the above.
10. The "certreq" file is created in the /saprouter/ntintel directory.
11. Use a notepad to open the "certreq" file and copy the displayed information
(From the -BEGIN .to the END -)
12.You now have to paste the above copy content into the space provided
shown below. After you have pasted the text, click the u201CRequest certificateu201D
button to submit your request.
13. Once you click on the u201CRequest Certificateu201D a new screen will be displaying
your certificate issued by SAP CA (Certification Authority).
14. Using a notepad to copy the content (From u2013Beingu2026 to -END) and save it
as u201Csrcertu201D into /saprouter/ntintel/srcert.
Note :
- Please rename srcert.txt into srcert without any extension.
15. You then need to import this certificate into SAProuter using the following
command.
Please run on /saprouter/ntintel directory.
sapgenpse import_own_cert -c srcert -p local.pse
Please enter PIN : (same as point 9)
16. Execute the following command in the /saprouter/ntintel directory.
sapgenpse seclogin -p local.pse
Please enter PIN : (same as point 9)
This will create a file "cred_v2" in the same directory.
17. Please check whether the certificate has been imported correctly.
Execute this command in /saprouter/ntintel directory.
sapgenpse get_my_name -v -n Issuer
The result should be "CN=SAProuter CA, OU=SAProuter, O=SAP, C=DE".
18. When the above results are not obtained , please delete local.pse and
cred_v2 and work again from steps 9. Please seek the assistance from your
local SAP helpdesk or create an OSS message via component XX-SER-NET-
OSS, if you are not able to obtain the above-mentioned result after you have
repeated the above steps.
Route permission table (saprouttab)
19. The corresponding file ./saprouttab should contain at least the following
entries.
Example : by SNC connection, when connecting to sapserv2
(194.39.131.34) the following entries need to be indicated by saprouttab.,
SNC-connection to SAP
KT "p:CN=sapserv2, OU=SAProuter, O=SAP, C=DE" 194.39.131.34
SNC-connection from SAP to local R/3-System for Support
KP "p:CN=sapserv2, OU=SAProuter, O=SAP, C=DE" <R/3-Server> <R/3-Instance>
SNC-connection from SAP to local R/3-System for pcANYWHERE, if it is needed
KP "p:CN=sapserv2, OU=SAProuter, O=SAP, C=DE" <R/3-Server> 5631
SNC-connection from SAP to local R/3-System for NetMeeting, if it is needed
KP "p:CN=sapserv2, OU=SAProuter, O=SAP, C=DE" <R/3-Server> 1503
SNC-connection from SAP to local R/3-System for saptelnet, if it is needed
KP "p:CN=sapserv2, OU=SAProuter, O=SAP, C=DE" <R/3-Server> 23
Access from the local Network to SAPNet - R/3 Frontend (OSS)
P <IP-addess of a local PC> 194.39.131.34 3299
deny all other connections
D * * *
Start the SAProuter with the following command.
Saprouter -r -S <port> -K
"p: <Your Distingiushed Name>"
-K tells the saprouter to start with loading the SNC library.
Example: saprouter -r -S 3299 u2013K "p:CN=JPL50020586, OU=0000036946,
OU=SAProuter, O=SAP, C=DE"
Additional Note
-You may refer to SAP note: 30289 in the SAP service marketplace for detail
information with regards to SAProuter
http://www.service.sap.com/note

My AppleTV will not play anything over Air Play. Every other function works perfectly, and my Internet/router are working at top speed. I can watch HD Netflix and YouTube but nothing via my iTunes library on my MacBook or iPad. All software is updated.

Every other function works perfectly, and my Internet/router are working at top speed. I can watch HD Netflix and YouTube but nothing via my iTunes library on my MacBook or iPad. All software is updated. The AppleTV will recognize that Air Play is trying to do it's thing, but with music files it sounds like they're skipping and video files just load endlessly.

I'm searching for an answer to almost the same exact problem, using almost the same exact hardware and software. Has an answer been found?
The files that I'm trying to burn come from eMusic, and they are formatted mp3. Recently, (after the iTunes update to 9.2.3?,) they would not drag and drop from iTunes into Toast. From several different discussions I've tried working around this by dragging to the desktop first then dragging and dropping to Toast, going to Toast from a programmer's homemade help window, " iToons," and today, after talking with Apple support, going directly to Toast from my eMusic folder. Alas, all recordings do not perform like they use to. Sometimes they play and sometimes not. There is one I managed, that is listenable, but sometimes I have to put it in my car stereo over and over again as it gets ejected with an error code, sometimes, finally it takes it... Some of the recordings on other disks I've burned are not clean - they have white-noise sounds creeping in... I use to have none of these problems. One time as I was listening to a CD that managed to play, and it just stopped playing... Is there an answer out there to get back to how it use to be? Thanks for you help.

Configuring WRT160n router to maximize range and speed

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