Confused about cloud back up of photos

Hi,
I am a bit of a neeb with Apple so please bare with me!
I have an ipad new generation and an iphone 5. I have photostream running on both of them. So when I take a photo on either device, it appears on the other.
I also have photostream on my PC - so any photos I take appear in a standard Windows folder on my PC.
Does this mean that I need not back up photos I take on either device to my PC - or will any of the files on my PC be deleted for any reason that I wouldn't be aware of?
I guess I still need to back up videos as photostream doesn't do that for me - I am worried because I don't want to lose all of my photos, but at the same time, don't want 5 different copies of the same photos on my PC.
Also - slightly related question - Is there a way to allow any photos I take on my iphone back up to photostream (ie my PC) - but not to have my iphone download all other pictures off photostream?
Hopefully someone can help me understand!
Thanks!

As long as you can get a good wifi connection they should upload to your photo stream. Upload speeds can be a little slow when traveling though. Another thing to bear in mind is that your photo stream will only keep up to 1000 photos for 30 days. If you're going to be gone longer than that, or take more photos than that you may run into issues unless you manually add them to a shared stream (see http://help.apple.com/icloud/#/mmc0cd7e99), which will hold up to 5000 photos per stream indefinitely until you delete them.
Another option would be to get a dropbox account and use the dropbox app to upload them to their server for safekeeping.

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I reading confusing things about exporting a PDF for printing with both color and black and white images used in the same document.
If I export to PDF and do a soft-proof and it looks okay, is that sufficient? If so, what's confusing about that, since this is my first print project, which Simulation Profile do I use? Is there a chart somewhere that compares U.S. Web Coated (SWOP) v2 to let's say 80 lb Gloss book with Aqueous coating (C2S)?
I don't know what any of this means. So, is there a good article on this site, elsewhere, or an online printer who can help a rookie like me ensure I end up with a decent product?
UPrinting.com advertises a "Free Project Review" that includes the following:
Our team will run your file through a 30-point inspection, covering technical issues including:
Artwork dimensions
Bleed setup
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What should I do? Is this trustworthy as long as I get a contract proof? Is there a "Go To" online printer that everyone loves (not sure you can recommend that here) or should I seek out a local printer?
I'm using CS4 and have a file that's (maybe) ready to go but am looking at a learning curve of days if not weeks if I have to figure it all out myself.
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InDesign puts grayscale and B&W (bitmap mode) art on the Black plate, where it belongs, so if you soft proof using the CMYK profile for your expected output conditions your preview will be accurate for the grayscale and B&W images as they will appear in print. presuming your monitor is calibrated and profiled so that you can trust what you see.
Aqueous coating is applied AFTER the printing to protect, and possible enhance the glossiness of, the page (but not all coatings are glossy). This is not the same thing as printing on coated paper, which has a glossy surface and high ink holdout (and improves detail reproduction and usually will geive better color). You should be using whatever profile the printer has specified.

Confused about Color Management in CS5 (Photos appearing differently in all other programs)

I recently noticed this and it's been driving me crazy; when I view photos in Photoshop CS5 they appear significantly lighter/more washed out than when viewed in other programs like Zoombrowser, Digital Photo Professional or just in a regular Windows folder using Filmstrip mode (Windows XP). When opening the same photo in both CS5 and Zoombrowser and switching back and forth between the two windows the difference is very apparent...for example, one of the photos I compared was of a person in a black shirt -- in CS5 (lighter/washed out) the folds in the shirt were very obvious, but in Zoombrowser (darker, more contrast/saturation) the folds were nearly invisible and it looked like just solid black. Now, after messing around with the settings in both Photoshop and in Zoombrowser I've found a few ways to get the photos to look the same in the two programs; one way gives them both the lighter/more washed out appearance and another way gives them both the darker appearance with more contrast and saturation. My problem is that I'm not sure which view is accurate.
I use a NEC MultiSync LCD1990SXi monitor with SpectraView II calibration software and calibrate it every 2 weeks using these calibration settings (screenshot): http://img52.imageshack.us/img52/8826/settingsx.jpg
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I assume the above settings are all correct so far, but I'm not sure about the rest.
Here are my current default Color Settings in CS5 (screenshot): http://img97.imageshack.us/img97/666/photoshopcolorsettings.jpg
Changing these settings around doesn't seem to make the photo appear much different. However, when I go to Edit -> Assign Profile, then click off of "Working RGB: sRGB IEC61966-2.1" and instead click Profile and select "LCD1990SXi ####### 2011-06-21 18-30 D65 2.20" from the drop-down menu, the picture becomes darker with more contrast and saturation and matches the picture in Zoombrowser. Also, if I select "Adobe RGB (1998)" from the drop-down menu it's very similar in terms of increased darkness and contrast but the saturation is higher than with the LCD1990SXi setting. Another way I've found to make the image equally dark with increased contrast and saturation is to go to View -> Proof Setup -> Custom and then click the drop-down menu next to "Device to Simulate" and select "LCD1990SXi ####### 2011-06-21 18-30 D65 2.20" again.
Alternatively, to make both images equally light and washed out I can go to Zoombrowser -> Tools -> Preferences and check the box next to "Color Management: Adjust colors of images using monitor profile." This makes the image in Zoombrowser appear just like it does in CS5 by default.
Like I said, I'm confused as to which setting is the accurate one (I'm new to Color Management in general so I apologize for my ignorance on the subject).
It would seem that assigning the LCD1990SXi profile in CS5 would be the correct choice in order to match the monitor calibration given the name of the profile but the "Adjust colors of images using monitor profile" option in Zoombrowser sounds like it would do the same thing as well. Also, I've read that Photoshop is a color managed software whereas Zoombrowser and Windows Picture and Fax Viewer are not which makes me think that maybe the lighter/washed out version seen in Photoshop is correct. So which version (light or dark) is the accurate one that I should use to view and edit my photos? Thanks in advance for any help or info.

Sorry for the late reply;
But before we go there or make any assumptions, it's important for
you to determine whether you're seeing consistent color in your
color-managed applications and only inconsistent color in those that are
not color-managed. For that you'll need to do a little research to see
if the applications in which you're seeing darker colors have
color-management capability (and whether it is enabled).
I opened the same picture in 7 different applications and found that the 6 of the 7 displayed the photo equally dark with equally high contrast when compared to the 7th application (CS5). The other 6 applications were Zoombrowser EX, Digital Photo Professional, Windows Picture and Fax Viewer, Quicktime PictureViewer, Microsoft Office Picture Manager and Firefox.
However, at least two of these programs offer color management preferences and, when used, display the photo (from what I can tell) exactly the same as Photoshop CS5's default settings. The two programs are two Canon programs: Zoombrowser EX and Digital Photo Professional. Here's the setting that needs to be selected in Zoombrowser in order to match up with CS5 (circled in red):
And here's the setting in Digital Photo Professional that needs to be selected in order to match up with CS5 (again, circled in red):
*Note: When the option above "Monitor Profile" is selected ("Use the OS settings") the image is displayed exactly the same as when the monitor profile is selected. It's only when sRGB is selected that it goes back to the default darker, more contrasty version.
So with the red-circled options selected, all three programs (CS5, ZB, DPP) display the images the same way; lighter and more washed out. What I'm still having trouble understanding is if that ligher, more washed out display is the accurate one or not...I've read several tutorials for all three programs which only make things more confusing. One of the tutorials says to always use sRGB if you want accurate results and *never* to use Monitor Profile and another says that, if you're using a calibrated monitor, you should always select Monitor Profile under the color management settings...so I'm still lost, unfortunately.
What I also don't understand is why, when the monitor profile is selected in CS5, the image is displayed in the dark and contrasty way that the other programs display it as by default but when the monitor profile is selected in Digitial Photo Professional it displays it in the lighter, more washed out way that CS5 displays it using CS5's default settings (sRGB). Why would selecting the monitor profile in DPP display the photo the same way as when sRGB is selected in Photoshop? And vice versa...why would selecting the monitor profile in Photoshop display the photo the same way as when sRGB is selected in DPP?
I feel like I'm missing something obvious here...which I probably am. Again, I'm very new to this stuff so pardon my ignorance on the topic.
By the way, I find that the way that the non-color managed programs (Windows Picture and Fax Viewer et al.) display the photos is more aesthetically pleasing to the eye than the duller, more washed out display that CS5 gives the photos, but ultimately what I want to see in these programs (especially PS5 where I'll be doing the editing) is the accurate representation of the actual photo itself...i.e. what it's supposed to look like and not a darker (or lighter) variant of it.
So just to reiterate my questions:
Why does selecting Monitor Profile under the color management settings in DPP give the same display results as the default sRGB profile in CS5 and vice versa? (CS5 with monitor profile selected having the same display results as DPP with the sRGB profile selected)
When using CS5 with it's default color management settings (sRGB), using DPP with the Monitor Profile selected, and using Zoombrowser EX with "Adjust color of images using monitor profile" selected this results in all three programs displaying the same lighter, washed-out images...is this lighter, more washed-out display of the images shown in these three programs the accurate one?
I noticed when opening an image in Firefox it had the same darker, contrasty look as the other non-color managed applications had. Assuming that the CS5 default settings are accurate, does this mean that if I edit a photo in CS5, save it, and upload it to the internet that other people who are viewing that image online will see it differently than how it's supposed to look (i.e. in a non-color-managed way?) If so, this would seem to indicate that they'd see a less-than-flattering version of the photo since if their browser naturally displays images as darker and more contrasty and I added more darkness and contrast to the image in CS5, they'd be seeing a version of the photo that's far too dark and probably wouldn't look very good. Is this something I have to worry about as well?
I apologize for the lengthy post; I do tend to be a bit OCD about these things...it's a habit I picked up once I realized I'd been improperly editing photos on an incorrectly calibrated monitor for years and all that time and effort had been spent editing photos in a certain way that looked good on my incorrectly calibrated monitor but looked like crap on everyone else's screen, so the length and detail of this post comes from a desire to not repeat similar mistakes by editing photos the wrong way all over again. Again, thanks in advance for all the help, it's greatly appreciated!

Confusion about Cloud Complete/Should I uninstall CS6?

Hello,
So we have just subscribed to Cloud Complete for teams, and one of my users currently has CS6 Masters Collection installed on his Windows 8 laptop, should we install Cloud Complete and keep CS6? CS6 subscription has expired and we don't really want to have two versions on one Computer so essentially I guess what I'm trying to ask is what are the differences and what is the best way forward - will we lose applications that are specific to CS6 that aren't in the Cloud? In addition to this I can't seem to find Acrobat in the drop down menu on the Admin Portal on Cloud Complete, is this included as well? He also still has CS6 documents - will he be able to open them using Cloud Complete Products? I am confused as to the differences between the two. Is Cloud Complete essentially like an upgrade to CS6...
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HI Michael,
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Photos tells me it is connecting to Library for shared photos. It's been saying this for about ten hours. I can't stop it from searching or get it to do anything else. I can go back to my photos but I can't get Photos to find the shared items.

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You're welcome. Since photo stream is completely free, and doesn't use your iCloud storage plan, Apple has to put some limits on it. It's really desiged to sync photos across your devices temporarily (30 days), giving you time to save the photos you want to keep. If you have a Mac, you can also set iPhoto to automatically save photo stream photos to your iPhoto library for permanent archieval; don't know if there is a similare option on the Windows side.
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Dear all,
Since I read adout the new Creative Cloud I am confused about what is going to happen to my license for Adobe Lightroom. Are they going to still maintain the desktop applications as well or will I have to pay for a yearly license if I want to use the new versions of Lightroom?
I am a casual photographer and I love using Lighroom for my pictures but I don't think that paying for a yearly license because I am not spending a lot of time editing pictures.
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DrLucian wrote:
I am a casual photographer and I love using Lighroom for my pictures but I don't think that paying for a yearly license because I am not spending a lot of time editing pictures.
The CC is geared towards Pro users, schools etc. LR spans both Pro and casual users. So from what I can garner Lightroom will stay as it is for the next iteration at least. I quoted that bit as my opinion is that that is the very reason why Lightroom will be available outside the cloud with a cloud version available with intergration features with the rest of the CC suite.

Im a bit confused about the Cloud

I wanna buy Creative Cloud but im very confused about that name ...
I wann use Lightroom and CC for my computer and Laptop - I guess it's working , aren't it ?

The Cloud is a delivery process where you pay monthly or annual rent to use programs
-what is in the entire Cloud http://www.adobe.com/creativecloud/catalog/desktop.html
Special Photography Plan
http://helpx.adobe.com/photoshop/kb/differences-photoshop-creative-cloud-photography.html
Cloud Plans https://creative.adobe.com/plans
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Why did using i cloud back up save multiple copies of my photos and sync photos from my iphone that i cant delete?

why did using my i cloud back up save multiple copies of my photos and sync unwanted photos from my computer?

I did that, and it did not work. But I will try it again.
EDIT* Finally!!! I have done this several times, and it hasnt worked. You comment that I should do that and it works.
thanks

I backed up my iPad to the cloud and then had to wipe and restore it. Most of the tings are there but can't find all my photos that I had put into albums. Can anyone help. Only a few of my pics came back on my photo stream.

Can any one help me find my photos and albums???

Photo stream photos only remain in iCloud for 30 days, even though your last 1000 photos will remain on your device until you delete them. When you reconnect to photo stream you only get back photos from the last 30 days. Only camera roll photos are included in the backup. To save your photo stream photos be sure to save them to your camera roll so they are backed up.
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lost all of my data on iphone and have no cloud back up how can i get my data back

iOS devices do backup automatically to iCloud providing:
iCloud Backup is turned on
It has a Wi-Fi connection
It is connected to a power source
The screen is off
5GB is plenty of storage for me to backup to iCloud automatically.
I have a 64GB iPhone & a 128GB iPad both backing up to the same iCloud account and I still have nearly 2GB free.
This is mainly because media is not backed up and Photo Stream & iTunes purchases do not count against your iCloud storage.
Here’s what iCloud backs up:
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Photos and videos in your Camera Roll
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Confused about deleting pics on iphone

I know this probably has been answered in a previous thread and have saw some thing that help, but I am still a bit confused about photo stream and photos.
What is the difference from how photos get saved (on an iphone) in photo stream vs. just being stored as memory?
Do they, photos, get stored in the cloud or physically on my phone?
How come when I go to delete photos on my iphone I get a message that warns it will delete on all my devises to include my mac?
When I deleted a few pics from my iphone they got deleted from my mac. In a nutshell how can I ensure that my mac will permantly store all of my pics regardless if I delete them from my iphone?
Thanks very much

ok ill try to help
photostream stores the pics you take for 30 days. if you delete them from here removes from all devices.
camera roll is the pics you take. can be deleted from device and only device. to save these import to your computer see.
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4083
your photo library is imported from computer to phone. you can delete these from device they have to be synced off
Peace, Clyde

Confused about cloud back up of photos

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