Confused about color vs. b/w photos for printing...and more

I reading confusing things about exporting a PDF for printing with both color and black and white images used in the same document.
If I export to PDF and do a soft-proof and it looks okay, is that sufficient? If so, what's confusing about that, since this is my first print project, which Simulation Profile do I use? Is there a chart somewhere that compares U.S. Web Coated (SWOP) v2 to let's say 80 lb Gloss book with Aqueous coating (C2S)?
I don't know what any of this means. So, is there a good article on this site, elsewhere, or an online printer who can help a rookie like me ensure I end up with a decent product?
UPrinting.com advertises a "Free Project Review" that includes the following:
Our team will run your file through a 30-point inspection, covering technical issues including:
Artwork dimensions
Bleed setup
Low resolution images
Elements that are not within the safe zone
Image clipping
Font sizes
Un-embedded fonts
Folding setup
Page scaling
Line weights
Proper text spacing (compressed/expanded)
Narrow borders that are at risk of being cut
Compliance with USPS Mailing Guidelines
Bindery setup for multi-page artwork
What should I do? Is this trustworthy as long as I get a contract proof? Is there a "Go To" online printer that everyone loves (not sure you can recommend that here) or should I seek out a local printer?
I'm using CS4 and have a file that's (maybe) ready to go but am looking at a learning curve of days if not weeks if I have to figure it all out myself.
Thanks everyone.
Paul

InDesign puts grayscale and B&W (bitmap mode) art on the Black plate, where it belongs, so if you soft proof using the CMYK profile for your expected output conditions your preview will be accurate for the grayscale and B&W images as they will appear in print. presuming your monitor is calibrated and profiled so that you can trust what you see.
Aqueous coating is applied AFTER the printing to protect, and possible enhance the glossiness of, the page (but not all coatings are glossy). This is not the same thing as printing on coated paper, which has a glossy surface and high ink holdout (and improves detail reproduction and usually will geive better color). You should be using whatever profile the printer has specified.

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Confused about Color Management in CS5 (Photos appearing differently in all other programs)

I recently noticed this and it's been driving me crazy; when I view photos in Photoshop CS5 they appear significantly lighter/more washed out than when viewed in other programs like Zoombrowser, Digital Photo Professional or just in a regular Windows folder using Filmstrip mode (Windows XP). When opening the same photo in both CS5 and Zoombrowser and switching back and forth between the two windows the difference is very apparent...for example, one of the photos I compared was of a person in a black shirt -- in CS5 (lighter/washed out) the folds in the shirt were very obvious, but in Zoombrowser (darker, more contrast/saturation) the folds were nearly invisible and it looked like just solid black. Now, after messing around with the settings in both Photoshop and in Zoombrowser I've found a few ways to get the photos to look the same in the two programs; one way gives them both the lighter/more washed out appearance and another way gives them both the darker appearance with more contrast and saturation. My problem is that I'm not sure which view is accurate.
I use a NEC MultiSync LCD1990SXi monitor with SpectraView II calibration software and calibrate it every 2 weeks using these calibration settings (screenshot): http://img52.imageshack.us/img52/8826/settingsx.jpg
In the SpectraView II Software under Preferences there's an option that says "Set as Windows Color Management System Monitor Profile - Automatically selects and associates the generated ICC monitor profile with the Color Management System (CMS)." This option is checked. Also, when I open the Windows' Color Management window there's only one option displayed, which is "LCD1990SXi #######" (the ####### represents my monitor's serial number).
I assume the above settings are all correct so far, but I'm not sure about the rest.
Here are my current default Color Settings in CS5 (screenshot): http://img97.imageshack.us/img97/666/photoshopcolorsettings.jpg
Changing these settings around doesn't seem to make the photo appear much different. However, when I go to Edit -> Assign Profile, then click off of "Working RGB: sRGB IEC61966-2.1" and instead click Profile and select "LCD1990SXi ####### 2011-06-21 18-30 D65 2.20" from the drop-down menu, the picture becomes darker with more contrast and saturation and matches the picture in Zoombrowser. Also, if I select "Adobe RGB (1998)" from the drop-down menu it's very similar in terms of increased darkness and contrast but the saturation is higher than with the LCD1990SXi setting. Another way I've found to make the image equally dark with increased contrast and saturation is to go to View -> Proof Setup -> Custom and then click the drop-down menu next to "Device to Simulate" and select "LCD1990SXi ####### 2011-06-21 18-30 D65 2.20" again.
Alternatively, to make both images equally light and washed out I can go to Zoombrowser -> Tools -> Preferences and check the box next to "Color Management: Adjust colors of images using monitor profile." This makes the image in Zoombrowser appear just like it does in CS5 by default.
Like I said, I'm confused as to which setting is the accurate one (I'm new to Color Management in general so I apologize for my ignorance on the subject).
It would seem that assigning the LCD1990SXi profile in CS5 would be the correct choice in order to match the monitor calibration given the name of the profile but the "Adjust colors of images using monitor profile" option in Zoombrowser sounds like it would do the same thing as well. Also, I've read that Photoshop is a color managed software whereas Zoombrowser and Windows Picture and Fax Viewer are not which makes me think that maybe the lighter/washed out version seen in Photoshop is correct. So which version (light or dark) is the accurate one that I should use to view and edit my photos? Thanks in advance for any help or info.

Sorry for the late reply;
But before we go there or make any assumptions, it's important for
you to determine whether you're seeing consistent color in your
color-managed applications and only inconsistent color in those that are
not color-managed. For that you'll need to do a little research to see
if the applications in which you're seeing darker colors have
color-management capability (and whether it is enabled).
I opened the same picture in 7 different applications and found that the 6 of the 7 displayed the photo equally dark with equally high contrast when compared to the 7th application (CS5). The other 6 applications were Zoombrowser EX, Digital Photo Professional, Windows Picture and Fax Viewer, Quicktime PictureViewer, Microsoft Office Picture Manager and Firefox.
However, at least two of these programs offer color management preferences and, when used, display the photo (from what I can tell) exactly the same as Photoshop CS5's default settings. The two programs are two Canon programs: Zoombrowser EX and Digital Photo Professional. Here's the setting that needs to be selected in Zoombrowser in order to match up with CS5 (circled in red):
And here's the setting in Digital Photo Professional that needs to be selected in order to match up with CS5 (again, circled in red):
*Note: When the option above "Monitor Profile" is selected ("Use the OS settings") the image is displayed exactly the same as when the monitor profile is selected. It's only when sRGB is selected that it goes back to the default darker, more contrasty version.
So with the red-circled options selected, all three programs (CS5, ZB, DPP) display the images the same way; lighter and more washed out. What I'm still having trouble understanding is if that ligher, more washed out display is the accurate one or not...I've read several tutorials for all three programs which only make things more confusing. One of the tutorials says to always use sRGB if you want accurate results and *never* to use Monitor Profile and another says that, if you're using a calibrated monitor, you should always select Monitor Profile under the color management settings...so I'm still lost, unfortunately.
What I also don't understand is why, when the monitor profile is selected in CS5, the image is displayed in the dark and contrasty way that the other programs display it as by default but when the monitor profile is selected in Digitial Photo Professional it displays it in the lighter, more washed out way that CS5 displays it using CS5's default settings (sRGB). Why would selecting the monitor profile in DPP display the photo the same way as when sRGB is selected in Photoshop? And vice versa...why would selecting the monitor profile in Photoshop display the photo the same way as when sRGB is selected in DPP?
I feel like I'm missing something obvious here...which I probably am. Again, I'm very new to this stuff so pardon my ignorance on the topic.
By the way, I find that the way that the non-color managed programs (Windows Picture and Fax Viewer et al.) display the photos is more aesthetically pleasing to the eye than the duller, more washed out display that CS5 gives the photos, but ultimately what I want to see in these programs (especially PS5 where I'll be doing the editing) is the accurate representation of the actual photo itself...i.e. what it's supposed to look like and not a darker (or lighter) variant of it.
So just to reiterate my questions:
Why does selecting Monitor Profile under the color management settings in DPP give the same display results as the default sRGB profile in CS5 and vice versa? (CS5 with monitor profile selected having the same display results as DPP with the sRGB profile selected)
When using CS5 with it's default color management settings (sRGB), using DPP with the Monitor Profile selected, and using Zoombrowser EX with "Adjust color of images using monitor profile" selected this results in all three programs displaying the same lighter, washed-out images...is this lighter, more washed-out display of the images shown in these three programs the accurate one?
I noticed when opening an image in Firefox it had the same darker, contrasty look as the other non-color managed applications had. Assuming that the CS5 default settings are accurate, does this mean that if I edit a photo in CS5, save it, and upload it to the internet that other people who are viewing that image online will see it differently than how it's supposed to look (i.e. in a non-color-managed way?) If so, this would seem to indicate that they'd see a less-than-flattering version of the photo since if their browser naturally displays images as darker and more contrasty and I added more darkness and contrast to the image in CS5, they'd be seeing a version of the photo that's far too dark and probably wouldn't look very good. Is this something I have to worry about as well?
I apologize for the lengthy post; I do tend to be a bit OCD about these things...it's a habit I picked up once I realized I'd been improperly editing photos on an incorrectly calibrated monitor for years and all that time and effort had been spent editing photos in a certain way that looked good on my incorrectly calibrated monitor but looked like crap on everyone else's screen, so the length and detail of this post comes from a desire to not repeat similar mistakes by editing photos the wrong way all over again. Again, thanks in advance for all the help, it's greatly appreciated!

Resizing a photo for printing

I am trying to resize a photo for printing to a 8x10 as it still crops off the top and bottom when printing. I took this with my D3100. How can I do this? I have tried printing several times.

Your image does not fit the 8x10 format - so it will always crop - probably not what you wanted to hear. But a couple of solutions for you:
Print the image on a larger paper so that it will fit, you will end up with a border - but will fit or
Resize the image in Photoshop - Image/Size to something like 9" high, that will automatically reduce the width of your image, but you will still end up with a border, but the whole image wil be there
Hope this helps, and maybe next time you can frame the image in camera to ensure your subject fits in a 4x5 ratio (leave a bunch of headroom at top and bottom)
Mike

Arranging the placement and order of photos for print or web

This is something I was expecting with the first Lightroom and it still seems to be clunky in 2.3...
Basically, there doesn't seem to be a way we can simply click and drag photos we want to be together and have them in orders of our choosing. The closest I've been able to find is when in picture package mode in the Print section. What is frustrating is that when I select most other templates, I can't just move the photos I want grouped together to where I'd like them to be. On the flip side, when in the picture package mode and I populate the frames by dragging photos to them, unlike contact sheet/grid mode, one can't move the photo around within that frame...
My understanding of Lightroom was that it made it easy for photographers to deal with their photos. For me, I like to be able to just move and group fluidly for print and web to see how pictures complement and flow regardless of tag, filename, or random selected order.
I can't imagine I'm the only one with this frustration, is there a remedy?

Thanks for that everyone you were right! I was being super-DUper sMart and Brilliant there and had only been trying to re-arrange within the layout window of the Print and Web areas. I think I was just assuming I was having the same trouble from Lightroom 1 and just stopped trying since it seemed the files either never moved or didn't stick (can't remember now). In any case, Thank you!

Hi all. i have adobe PS cc and i want to upgrade to PS and lightroom. How do i go about this without haveing to pay for both and paying the one combined price? thanks

hi all. i have adobe PS cc and i want to upgrade to PS and lightroom. How do i go about this without haveing to pay for both and paying the one combined price? thanks

You should talk to Adobe Support thru chat or by phone when they are available (Not usually on weekends) as they might be able to help arrange the change without any cancellation penalties.
Phone/Chat support - For the link below click the Still Need Help? option in the blue area at the bottom and choose the chat option...
Make sure you are logged in to the Adobe site, have cookies enabled, clear your cookie cache. If it fails to connect try using a different browser.
Creative Cloud support (all Creative Cloud customer service issues)
http://helpx.adobe.com/x-productkb/global/service-ccm.html ( http://adobe.ly/19llvMN )
Otherwise what you would normally do is first consult the following page to see what you can do on your own
Manage your membership and payments | Creative Cloud
https://helpx.adobe.com/x-productkb/policy-pricing/membership-subscription-troubleshooting -creative-cloud.html
and then if necessary cancel the current plan (penalties being possible) and subscribe to the new one.
Cancel your membership or subscription | Creative Cloud
https://helpx.adobe.com/x-productkb/policy-pricing/cancel-membership-subscription.html

I have been taking photos for years and have thousands. When I use Apple TV screen saver, it seems only to grab a handfull and repeats them. Is there a configuration setting that will allow me to have the screen saver grab more than just a few? Thanks.

I have been taking photos for years and have thousands. When I use Apple TV screen saver, it seems only to grab a handfull and repeats them. Is there a configuration setting that will allow me to have the screen saver grab more than just a few? Thanks.

The device has an 8GB drive for caching streamed meida, a small portion of that is used to temporarily store photos for the screensaver. It may vary depending on resolution etc but it seems to be around 100.

LOADING PHOTOS FOR PRINTING

Two questions in 1.
When I try to load photos for printing to a commercial site (not Apple) I cannot find my albums in the menu. When I click on the albums folder under database there is nothing there. The only place I can find shows the photos in date order which is very laborious.
If I do load photos individually from the main library only the IMG description loads not my own added details. I have tried two separate suppliers but with the same result. When I used to upload from a PC the details would appear and come back printed on the reverse of the photo.
I cannot find any help menu item.

In the upload window use the media browser. In the extreme lower left hand corner under media ==> photos ==> iPhoto
LN

I would like to print out the icon and title of each of my apps to another document for printing and sharing within my family

I would like to print out the icon and title of each of my IOS apps to another document for printing and sharing within my family. My son has my old iPod touch so I erased it so he could put whatever games he wants to play on that I used to play with. It is difficult to download every game at one time because there is too much to download at one time. I have many hundreds of apps. One way I found was to create a screen grab of each page in iTunes then open it in Preview contact sheet but that is really tiny unreadable image of each screen. I also tried importing a screen shot of the contact sheet into Paint 2 and magnifying it on several pages but that is really blurry. The ideal solution would be to import the icon and text to another app or to provide a print list of apps solution within iTunes.

Create iPad screen shots by briefly pressing the home and on/off buttons together. You will hear a shutter click sound and find a screen shot on your iPad's Camera Roll. You can then print these screen shots as you would any iPad photos.
UPDATE: I assumed you had an iPad. Hopefully your iOS device does have an on/off and home button and is capable of producing screen shots.

I have a Dell Photo 964 printer and want to know how to down load it onto my Mac Book Pro

I have a Dell Photo 964 printer and want to know how to download it onto my Mac Book Pro.
Does anyone know how to do this? Jane 96

Hi Jane...
Go to the Dell website and download the drivers (software) for Mac O S X 10.7 for the 964 model.
Then open System Preferences > Print & Scan > Print
Click + to add the printer.

When I try to print from my iPad I see a message "searching for printer" and then "no printer found.". I have a printer application loaded and it finds my wireless printer.   How do I get the iPad to do the same so I can print from emails, the web, etc?

When I try to print from my iPad I see a message "searching for printer" and then "no printer found.". I have a printer application loaded and it finds my wireless printer.   How do I get the iPad to do the same so I can print from emails, the web, etc? Thanks

sandrafromsilver spring wrote:
When I try to print from my iPad I see a message "searching for printer" and then "no printer found.". I have a printer application loaded and it finds my wireless printer.   How do I get the iPad to do the same so I can print from emails, the web, etc? Thanks
Go to the following link:
http://jaxov.com/2010/11/how-to-enable-airprint-service-on-mac-os-x-10-6-5/

I want to create a document in Illustrator that i can use for Print and Web - using 2 different colourspaces.

Is it possible to do this? I need to create a document so that I can export as a high quality CMYK for print and export the same file as RGB jpeg / pdf for web and email use. Do I have to create the document with 2 different colourspaces, or can I change / convert the colourspace after I have created and finished the document? or is there some simple way to select an RGB / CMYK option when saving/exporting?
look forward to your reply!
Tom

Tom,
In addition to what Monika said, the document can be either CMYK or RGB Colr Mode, but not both.
And you are right in starting with the CMYK because that will ensure (to the degree possible) that the CMYK and RGB versions match in colour (gamut, the CMYK gamut being the more linited and almost entirely included in the RGB gamut); this will prevent more vivid RGB colours which will make the CMYK colours seem duller.

AE Setup for printer and Airtunes ONLY?

If I set up a wireless network on my AE for printing and Airtunes, but my laptop accesses the internet via ethernet, does the AE allow access to that connection backwards through the laptop? (I don't want it to).

dasharst, Welcome to the discussion area!
Yes that is possible.
If your Linksys is a wireless router, simply configure the AirPort Express (AX) to join the wireless network created by the Linksys.
If your Linksys isn't wireless, simply connect the AX via Ethernet to one of the Linksys LAN ports. Configure the AX to act as a bridge (not sharing a single IP address).

InCopy/Indesign workflow for printed and folio mags?

We have a printed magazine that we also produce as folios for a DPS app. We produce the mag by using InCopy for text within the InDesign workflow. No problems there.
When finished (all edits completed) we produce the folio files but adding in all the links to twitter handles, URL's etc is proving tedious and timeconsuming for the editors and the designer. The editors (who use the print files and InCopy) produce a list in excel of the additions - they reference columns and paragraphs - which we don't use in the folio version. The designer then finds the spot after a lot of searching and then copies and pastes. All very tedious and a backward step in workflow.
Is there a way to include the "links" in an InCopy file that doesn't appear on the print PDF's yet apply correctly in the folios?

Use conditional text.
All interactive elements should be inline objects or simple hyperlinks that are tagged with a condition, then either showing or hidden depending on the article. Hide the interactive content when you create the PDF for print, and show the condition when adding or updating the article.
Anything you want to show/hide has to be part of a story — so text, inline objects, and anchored objects can all be used this way.
InCopy can see and apply conditional text, but cannot edit DPS-centric content such as an anchored MSO.
As always, using matching versions of ID/IC is important.

Firewall Rules for Printing and Scanning through Windows Firewall

Hello,
I am having trouble determining the Ports, Programs, and Services required for printing and scanning with my AIO.
I am using Windows Firewall in Windows 7, and am only allowing certain rules in and out.
I know the firewall is the problem, for when I disable it, everything works fine.
Which rules are required for printing and scanning through the firewall?

4th Bump,
Is there anyone who can help me with this?
As I said before, other printer manufacturers such as Lexmark and Brother provide this exact information.
Why doesn't hp have a document for this? Does everyone just disable their firewall or open every port?

Confused about cloud back up of photos

Hi,
I am a bit of a neeb with Apple so please bare with me!
I have an ipad new generation and an iphone 5. I have photostream running on both of them. So when I take a photo on either device, it appears on the other.
I also have photostream on my PC - so any photos I take appear in a standard Windows folder on my PC.
Does this mean that I need not back up photos I take on either device to my PC - or will any of the files on my PC be deleted for any reason that I wouldn't be aware of?
I guess I still need to back up videos as photostream doesn't do that for me - I am worried because I don't want to lose all of my photos, but at the same time, don't want 5 different copies of the same photos on my PC.
Also - slightly related question - Is there a way to allow any photos I take on my iphone back up to photostream (ie my PC) - but not to have my iphone download all other pictures off photostream?
Hopefully someone can help me understand!
Thanks!

As long as you can get a good wifi connection they should upload to your photo stream. Upload speeds can be a little slow when traveling though. Another thing to bear in mind is that your photo stream will only keep up to 1000 photos for 30 days. If you're going to be gone longer than that, or take more photos than that you may run into issues unless you manually add them to a shared stream (see http://help.apple.com/icloud/#/mmc0cd7e99), which will hold up to 5000 photos per stream indefinitely until you delete them.
Another option would be to get a dropbox account and use the dropbox app to upload them to their server for safekeeping.

Confused about color vs. b/w photos for printing...and more

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