Correct white balance

I just join new job. They taped big project with white wall. Three cameras. Two of them are same and one new camera. I am not sure which camcorders but I see those two cameras are apparently off white balance (slight yellow) while new camera show look great. I am not familiar with color corrections. It got me confused which ones that I should adjust for white balance correction like level controls highlighs mids blacks, color balance, color controls.. all those... not sure which is good to correct white balance. Hope that I am able to match with one look so white and great colors.

Try the Magic Wand.
Turn the CC to Visual mode, that's where you see the colour wheels.
At about seven o'clock on the Balance wheel is a little eye dropper.
Here's how to do it:
Have the clip edited into the Timeline then place your playhead over that clip.
Open this clip (the one in the Timeline that needs to be corrected) into the Viewer. Okay, what you have is the same clip being diplayed in the Viewer and Canvas. This is so when color corrections are made in the Viewer you can see the changes in the Canvas straight away. You know if things going the right way or not.
Drag the Color Corrector from the Browser>Effects>Video Filters>Color Correction>Color Corrector and drop it on the Viewer.
A Color Corrector Tab will be available on the Viewer.
Click the Color Corrector Tab and the CC Filter appears.
Click the eye dropper and move the cursor over the Canvas, the cursor should look like an eye dropper if all is well.
Find something that should be WHITE in the Canvas, place the eye dropper over this and click on it. Instant balance correction can be seen in the Canvas.
If this doesn't work then you can use the wheels manually to change the balance.
Al

Similar Messages

Correcting White Balance with no white in shot

Does anyone have any tips for correcting white balance when the footage has no white objects to act as a reference? This was the classic mistake of shooting outdoors with an indoor setting. We were rushing to utilise a gap in the rain!
Also, is there any way to tell Premiere how to correct WB via a sort of colour matching, by pointing it towards a correctly white balanced still of the scene?
Thanks
Davyd

This is a really tricky thing. There's a lot of ways to approach it. I had similar problems with a WB correction mismatch between presets on my 7D and 70D. No white in either shot.
I exported a few frames in to PS first to get a rough idea with what I was dealing with.
Use the Info window to check something grey.
Alternately, if there is nothing grey, you can use skin tone patches. This is a common tool used by skin retouchers in PS. Grab a small sample or two from the desired skin tones, either from a 5x5 grab with the eyedropper or just grabbing a small section with the lasso tool and Gaussian Blurring that to heck and back. Once you get a bit of a palette of skin tones you like, you can use that as a reference for your work with the Fast Color Corrector.
To be honest, I feel the FCC is a little underpowered and I wish I had my AAVC 6 Channel HSL tool from Vegas when color correcting.
As a Photoshop geek, I am a little uncomfortable with the video color correction toolset.
To export a frame, click on the viewing panel and hit Ctrl-Shift-E.
Try opening the frames in Adobe Camera Raw and you can get some temp and tint values that can also help you with your Prem Pro toolset.
Remember to watch out for channel clipping when making dramatic changes in WB.

Correcting white balance

I set my white balance wrong for an interior shot. The walls should be white but they are now yellow. Is there a filter or procedure other than the Color Corrector that would give me almost true whites? Something such as a selective color tool where I could select only certain colors and change their hue/saturation etc?
Thanks

>I don't think correcting color temperature is something you'd do with masks.
Certainly not Mr G., just advising how to do a selective color adjustment as per the latter part of the question "Is there ... something such as a selective color tool where I could select only certain colors and change their hue/saturation etc?".
Tacbob, chances are, for a simple white balance issue the built in auto analysis may be all you need, tho its a bit hit and miss and may affect your image in other ways that you didn't want (eg contast and brightness). Otherwise (or to correct for unwanted side affects) for overall color balance adjustmentments you can just use the Color Board (without masks) to affect a global correction by adjusting accordingly ... for example, if the shot is too warm you can move the color tab's Global control to the lower area of the yellow/orange section of the Color Board to subtract some of that unwanted warmth (or if it's too cool then you can move it similarly but to the blue area of the board). Similar controls in the Exposure tab will let you adjust the Contrast / Brightness. Likewise for color saturation in the Saturation tab. Have a read through the info at the link Goldfish provided ... and don't be afarid to poke about a bit, the tools may seem confusing at first but its all non-destructive and a bit of practice is all you need.
Good luck
Andy

Any good tutorials on workflow for correcting white balance RAW from GoPro 3?

Looking for tutorial on how to color correct video recorded using GoPro 3 with white balance set to RAW. here is sample frame:

"wabbit316" ...
I've got the book by Hullfish & Fowler that shooter-nz recommended and I would HIGHLY recommend you get it. It is well- written, covers working in nearly any NLE/grading/fx application for color & grade corrections, and is easy to understand and apply what you learn reading through it. I'd already spent a fair amount of time playing around working on color/grading in P-Pro, Speedgrade, and Ae before I got the book, but my next bit after reading this went SO much faster and direct ... to a much better solution.
Excellent approach to explaining what one is doing. I've hear good stuff about the other, and frankly ... might very well get that one too. Amazing what a little knowledge can do ...
Neil

Correcting white balance and exposure

Does FCE offer good ways to fix bad white balance and underexposure?
I just tested the video filter for underexposure and color and they improve things are just pathetic compared to an edit an editor friend did in full Final Cut. So maybe FCE can do better and I just missed or did not see what to do?

You would probably do better with the 2-way color corrector than what you originally did. The 3-way in FCP is a better tool but the 2-way is what comes with FCE.
In general, with the 2-way color corrector you should start adjustments this way:
Click the Auto Contrast button once
Then do Auto Black followed by Auto White (one click each)
Then adjust the Mids if necessary.
After all that, play with the color balance..
To better white balance your shot it often helps to crank the Saturation slider all the way up, then use the eyedropper tool at the lower left of the Balance wheel to select something in your shot that should be truly white (white, not necessarily bright). Since the saturation slider is all the way up, any adjustments you make will be exaggeraged but that helps you get it right. You can make further adjustments to get the whites as neutral as possible and then slide the saturation back down to a more normal level. It takes some noodling, but it can be done.

Correcting white balance: RawShooter seems better than CS2 ACR?

(Photoshop CS2, Windows)
I sometimes use "RawShooter Essentials 2006" to process raw photos taken with a Canon s70. The pictures are from diving trips, and the water is usually very green. I set WB by clicking a neutral spot in the image. For example, the white porcelain of a sunken toilet. (!)
The other day I tried Adobe Camera Raw in PS CS2 and was surprised that auto WB seemingly did a worse job than the same tool in RawShooter. I'd like to know how to get better results out of ACR.
Here is a thread with more details, sample pictures, and a link to a very green raw file. I'd appreciate any thoughts on the matter.
http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=20348
(Would CS3 work any better? I guess I should try it.)

Michael,
I thought it might be something like that too. But now I don't think it is, and here's why.
In both applications, the WB tool only adjusts the color temp and hue sliders, right? Copying those values from one program to the other produces the same results as in the sample pictures. That is, one program looks much different than the other.
That should take the sampling tool out of consideration, and it still leaves me thinking that the WB correction routines are different in the two apps. For my uses, anyway--deep under green water is admittedly a fringe case.
I guess it's not so bad though, the free program is doing what I need. But as a Photoshop user and fan I'd like to figure out why there is a difference. :)
Thanks,
Matt

Elements 11 organizer shows correct wb in thumbnails but when increased to full screen or in slide show changes white balance to tungsten

Elements 11 organizer shows correct white balance in thumbnails but when increased to full screen or in slide show changes white balance to tungsten. Photos where shot in raw and in auto or flash white balance. any suggestions out there?

Figured it out, if the raw default setting has the wb on 3000 (or tungsten) the slide show uses adobe raw to convert so they all showed blue LOL

White balance

What is the best way to correct white balance shifts post production.
If shooting underwater, there is either a big jump to very blue, or to red.
Will I have to select different underwatercolour ranges and correct them each, or is there an easier way?
Is it best to use 3 way colour corrector, or other effects, or a combo?
I also have Adobe after effects 6.5, is there something in there recommended, as superior?

Underwater footage is fascinating stuff but it will not necessarily respond to conventional color correction. Unless properly lit, filtered or balanced the colors simply do not exist; there's no color data to correct.
The #1 advice form the kenstone.net articles: Shooting underwater successfully requires knowing what you're doing long before diving.
http://www.kenstone.net/fcphomepage/lighting_below_thewaves.html
The loss of color is deceiving. The human brain compensates for much of the color loss and even at depths below 30 feet, your eyes will still see some red. But a fact which we must understand is that the camera is really dumb. It has no brain, so therefore it will not compensate. To overcome this problem, artificial light sources must be used.< </div>
When working in water with a greenish tinge, as in the west coast of our continent from Seattle north to Vancouver Island, a magenta filter will produce good results. For blue caribbean waters, I always prefer my red color correction filter. < </div>
POST PRODUCTION FILTERS. As in topside video work, occasionally we misjudge the lighting conditions and must attempt a repair within Final Cut Pro. There are a few filters in the browser which I have discovered work well with underwater video footage. The Proc Amp filter can be used to put some vibrancy into an otherwise washed out shot. The RGB Balance filter is another which if used sparingly can save an otherwise interesting piece of footage from the cutting room floor.
But these filters are definitely no substitute for getting it right in the first place. The best angle of attack is to concentrate on the basic principals of lighting so that your footage can go untouched from the camera to the timeline.<
bogiesan

White Balance color temperature for custom temperature shots

Hello,
I would like to understand why LR and Photoshop too are always show wrong color temperature "As Shot"?
Let say I shoot with 6000K, set manually (Canon 40D, RAW)
Canon itself says it's 6000K in the slide info, fine.
Both Adobe apps says it's 5750K!
What's going on there?
Second question - I know the light was EXACTLY 6000K, but the slide has some green in it. Picking white balance in LR gives me 5900K (which is close to the truth) and +31 Tint, which makes slide neutral.
Of course I can correct Tint manually before the shot by WB Shift in Camera, so the question is: what is the best way - to find more or less appropriate WB shift in the camera, or use WB correction in LR after all?
Thanks
UPD. My suggestion is - Adobe doesn't read custom temperature from RAW file, it's just guessing! Is that right?

The white balance value you see in Lightroom is profile specific. It reads your custom white balance and translates it so that neutrals stay neutral, which is exactly what you want. If it wouldn't do this, your neutrals would shift in color.
The best way to get a correct white balance is to shoot a white balance (grey) card or use one of those filters on your camera to measure it. You can either set it in camera from the grey card or do it with the dropper in Lightroom and sync over the series. The effect will be the same.
P.S. unless you shoot a white balance card, you do not know that the color temp of your light is exactly 6000K. That is quite impossible to know. It might be approximately that under certain standardized conditions but you cannot be sure, no matter what you're told by the manufacturer.

White balance, Export and shutterfly

I thought I was doing everything right with the holiday family shots: shot RAW, then corrected white balance as needed (often, cool them down slightly) in LR3.3 Develop. A test print (color managed by LR) on my home inkjet looked just like on-screen, color-temp wise. Then, to crank out a stack of 4x6s for family, I Exported jpgs (sharpened for glossy), and uploaded to Shutterfly (actually, Published them using a 3rd-party add-on). The resulting prints from the lab are MUCH warmer than the test prints or screen.
OK, ok, you get what you pay for. But...before I blame one vendor and start trying others: is this Shutterfly et al applying their own corrections? Or is there something I'm overlooking in the Export/Publish stage? TIFF vs JPGs?
This is NOT another "why aren't my prints like the screen" thread -- stuff is calibrated and my prints at home DO look like the on-screen image, thank you.
TIA

Short answer: click lift tool, click photo to transfer from, uncheck adjustments you don't want stamped, click photo to transfer to.
Longer answer:
1. Click the lift tool
2. Hover over a shot you want to copy anything from, and the cursor changes to an upward arrow. Click on the shot.
3. The cursor now changes to a down arrow when over any picture, indicating that Stamp is active. Uncheck any adjustments or other info you do NOT want to stamp, and click on the photo. Checked adjustments will be stamped.
Make sure you choose Add or Replace in the popup to add or replace the adjustments you're stamping (this setting is usually only relevant to metadata for me).
Mark

Separate luminance and color white balance

I know this is a quite peculiar idea, but i roundtrip to Photoshop a lot just for this..
we all know white balance affects how contrast and luminance of different image areas are interpreted by the software, and at times, especially in low or mixed light, I find that the 'color wise correct' white balance is often different to the 'luminance wise best' one..
i hope this doesn't sound too tortuous, and i really don't know if it would be hard to implement, but it would definitely help a lot with image quality..

ok..
I usually do this for low light portraits or mixed light situation, but it really works for everything, and is quite similar to the "tone" part of topaz detail plugin, for example..
we always choose WB to have a pleasant or correct color rendition, right?
but if we are in black and white, different WB settings affect different areas of the image, lightwise..
and i find out that there is always a sweet spot, depending on the lighting, where noise is better and shadows are better distributed, and and that usually doesn't match to the color WB sweet spot..
this is the original auto wb image
and its bw equivalent
here wb is tweaked to better balance shadows and contrast
but you can see colors are way off..
to give a better idea..
original:
two wbs, obtained with layers color blend mode of original onto bw tweaked
i realize at this size the difference may look small, but it really changes the balance of light, especially with low light or underexposed or mixed light shots..
hope now it's more clear..
cheers
Tommaso

Eye drop tool for white balance

It has been requested an eye drop tool to correct white balance issues in color correction for a long time. Is there any news on this? Will it be a new feature in upcoming updates?
If not... does anyone know a plugin that will do the same thing?
Short description:
I want to be able to select which colors are supposed to be white with an eye drop tool during color correction. This feature was available in earlier FCPs like 6 and 7. It saves tons of hours being able to auto adjust the whitebalance in post, rather than trying to match the correct color balance - dragging up and down these color circles, and then matching the color settings throughout the whole project.

The Color Corrector in FCPX is a misnomer. The color board is more about grading - not correcting.
If you can tell how the color is casting (or read the scopes) then the Color board is easy: line up the global control over the color and drag it downward (that will "subtract" the offending cast from the image.) Or use the shadows, midtones, and highlights controls individually for those ranges.
[But I find scopes difficult to use quickly, so:]
You can also use *any* of the effects, titles, or generators that have any color parameter selection (or gradient!) as an eyedropper in a pinch. Click on the swatch for the color parameter and from the pop up dialog (color picker), use the Magnifier (top left corner) and choose any pixel on the canvas (or anywhere else for that matter.) That will give you clear indication which primary elements are "too heavy" (red, green, blue -- or any two with greater value than the minimum) Using the HSB sliders mode (second icon and last on the dropdown) will give you the degree angle (which is what the color board uses) of the hue cast and the Saturation value will give you an indication of the "magnitude" of the cast. Move the appropriate control in the color board to the Hue degree and subtract the % shown by saturation -- and you're "white balanced" (I should say: neutral.) [PS, if you're not going to be using the effect, etc -- simply disable it by clicking on the blue rectangle -- you'll still be able to use the color picker -- and whatever the effect is won't interfere with your color edits.]
If you have Motion, you can build an "eyedropper" quickly by drawing a rectangle, setting the fill opacity to 0 and publishing its fill color -- it can be an effect, a title or most easily: a generator. Titles and generators are most easily dragged around the storyline and don't become "part of" a clip. If you don't have Motion, you can download one here: http://sight-creations.com/fxexchange/eyeDropperAssist.zip (a generator.)

White Balance Plug In

Can someone advise me on a plug in for a quick method of setting white balance when you did not get footage with correct white balance? Also can you set keyframes for changing the white balance in a multi-cam clip?
This is the footage I am looking to fix - look at the change when someone turns lighting on at : 3:41
Is there anyway to recue the white balance at 1:17.
https://vimeo.com/80166468
Are there any good training videos for explaining all of this?
Thank you for your advice in advance.
Joe

http://fxfactory.com/blog/effects-2/final-cut-pro-x-white-balancer-plugin/

Can't get decent white balance

I shot some photos with my Canon EOS outside with the white balance set to 3200. The photos are, of course, blue. In iPhoto, using the slider, I can get almost perfectly corrected white balance with great skin tones. Bringing the photos into Aperture and using the white balance correction slider doesn't get me close to what iPhoto did. What's up with this?
RM

It’s a common problem. Usually because of PC monitors being back lit and often set very bright. So the representation on the PC will be different compared with on photo paper. Nice image by the way.
Most labs use the sRGB color space; so make sure you are saving your print copy with that profile. If you view your image on screen by getting down on your knees, and looking up at your monitor rather than from eye level, you will get an indication of how dark the image really is.
I always make separate copies for print with an overall levels adjustment and with sharpening as the final edit, based on each different print size. I would suggest for this image moving the middle pointer to 1.75 but you may need to experiment with different settings. Make a test batch and compare them when you get them back from Walmart to see which works best and use that in future.

White Balance Setting Errors - HELP!

I am having a problem with Aperture and wanted to find if anyone else has noticed this since the update to 3.1.
I imported a batch of photos (about 75 RAW 25 JPEG) and noticed that the white balance was the same for every picture. Odd since my Nikon camera is set to Auto White Balance and RAW and the JPEG photos from my Sony should show 5000/0. Everything was showing the same value, which was something like 4689/-5.
I discovered that Aperture is only showing me the setting for the first photo I select after opening the program. Unless I deselect the photo by clicking somewhere on the background, that photo's setting will show for all photos that have not been locked into a setting by editing. After deselecting, I can then click on a different photo and get the correct white balance numbers.
This causes a very annoying problem - I can't start editing a photo after directly clicking on it or moving to it with the arrow keys because the white balance starting point will be from a previous photo's setting, so I am moving the sliders from the wrong starting point. Having to deselect and reselect between every photo is very irritating.
I've restarted my computer, repaired Aperture's permissions, and repaired the database, but nothing fixes the problem. It's likely a bug that needs an update to be fixed (I submitted a bug report) but I'm open to suggestions.
Anyone else having a similar problem since updating?

Others have reported simialr problems.
See:
[White Balance Glitch|http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=12521251&#12521251]

Correct white balance

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