Correcting fast shutter speed in FCP

Hello,
I am trying to edit footage that was shot with a Sony Z1. The footage was accidently shot at a high shutter speed >1000. The footage is of snow falling, so it ends up being REALLY strobed. Does anyone know a good way to correct or minimize the strobing effect of footage in FCP using filters, settings, etc? I have tried playing around with the motion blur tab, but the footage ends up looking bad. - Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!!!
Powermac 2.7 Mac OS X (10.4.5)

I wonder if this would help...
http://www.revisionfx.com/mblur.htm

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Camera issue - stretch marks - Z1 in M mode, 8MP, iso 800-3200, indoor, hi-shutter speed

I tried to read some pages of the forum, but cannot find the similar issues. I am quite surprised if this issue isn't discovered since 6 months. (or it is common not a problem? please correct me.)
As mentioned in captioned, when in high iso and high shutter speed, there are serious stretch marks. The higher the more visible. Please refer to the photos below:
Photo 1: M mode, 8M pixel, f/2, 1/1600s, ISO-3200, in side a restaurant with no window
Photo 2: M mode, 8M pixel, f/2, 1/500s, ISO-3200, in side a restaurant with no window
Photo 3: M mode, 8M pixel, f/2, 1/125s, ISO-100, in my office at night
Photo 4: M mode, 8M pixel, f/2, 1/1000s, ISO-800, in my office at night
Photo 5: M mode, 8M pixel, f/2, 1/2000s, ISO-1600, in my office at night
From the Photos above, it is shown that my Z1 cannot take any photo properly INDOOR. When the light is stronger enough (in office/ factory/ laboratory), there are stretch marks even in ISO-100!
I had tried several Z1(s), from my collegues, friend, retail shop and even the display model in Sony's Customer Service Centre (Hong Kong), they all have this problem. The staff of Sony's Centre told me that all the Z1 have this problem and therefore they cannot replace / help.
I had tried with other cell phone / digital camera / DSLR, they do not have this problem. This is not common.
It is believed that Sony is professional in digital camera technology (refer to A7, A7R), and the 20M pixel DC quality camera is the selling point of Z1 and may be Z2. There should be an solution for this issue.

Hi, I had took some photos from my 7-year-old Fuji F100fd and 4-year-old Google Nexus One under same light source for comparison:
Photo Z1-1: Xperia Z1, ISO-400 , f/2, 1/160s, 8MP
Photo Z1-2: Xperia Z1, ISO-1600 , f/2, 1/640s, 8MP
Photo FJ-1: Fujifilm F100fd, ISO-400, f/3.3, 1/52s, 12MP
Photo FJ-2: Fujifilm F100fd, ISO-3200, f/3.3, 1/400s, 12MP
Photo FJ-3: Fujifilm F100fd, ISO-6400, f/3.3, 1/850s, 3MP
Photo N1-1: Google Nexus One, ISO-100, 5MP (No info provided in Exif)
Photo N1-2: Google Nexus One, ISO-1250, 5MP (No info provided in Exif)
From photos FJ-1 to FJ-3 by Fuji DC, no matter how high ISO and fast shutter speed, there is no stretch line in photo by Fuji DC. There means it is technically feasible to fix the stretch line problem.
From photos N1-1 to N1-2 by Google Nexus One, there are stretch lines only when ISO-1250 but very light and colourless. It seems more acceptable.
From photos Z1-1 to Z1-2 by Xperia Z1, stretch lines appear from ISO-200 to ISO-3200 and they are bold, dark and colour like stain. It is certainly unacceptable...
I hope I can get a solution on this issue. I wonder if other Z1 owners got the same problem?

Slow motion and frame rate and shutter speed

I have two cameras that record 60i and three that use 30p. Neither of the 60i cameras has a 30p option (one has a pf30). If I understand how FCPx handles this, if I drop both frame rates into a project, I get 30p out, correct? In effect de-interlacing the 60i footage to 30p. Is it best to import the 30p footage first to set that frame rate so that the 60i gets rendered to 30p?
We're producing a fishing DVD so good quality motion footage is important. This is an instructional DVD so I will be using some retiming to slow footage down to illustrate key points in the instruction.
I've read a lot of stuff on 1080i 60i vs. pf30 vs.30p vs. 24fps and benefits of using 720p vs. 1080i. Also looked at information on slow vs. fast shutter speeds.
So, the bottom line to get the best motion results for the DVD, I should be shooting at best bit rate possible, use 1080i 60i or 30p depending on the camera and let FCPx set everything to 30p. Correct?

For the 1080/60i media, it is best to have FCPX conform it to 30p (29.97p). [30p is a real timing: 30 exact frames per second, but it is not broadcast compliant. 29.97 is quite often simply referred to as 30, just for simplicity and/or laziness. The final decision for which to use rests with you. Also note, like "30 fps", 60 more often refers to 59.94 fps... for the same reasons.]
As for your target being DVD: DVD is always 480 lines whether it is anamorphic (16:9) or standard 4:3. If you would like to have "enhanced" slow motion, my recommendation would be to shoot in 720/60p (which is genuinely progressive "60" frames per second) and will give a slightly better edge on slow motion effects (retiming). That said, FCPX retiming is usually quite good no matter what the frame rate (frame blending recommended over optical flow [which tends to give a "morphing" effect when pushed too far].) 1280x720 frame size will give you plenty of downsampling resolution for DVD as well. [I *believe* that FCPX will use all of the 60fps available from the original video in retiming, even if the frame rate of the project is slower than the original media; so, 720/60p conformed to a 30p project and retimed to 50% will use every frame of the 60p slowed down by half... (somebody correct me if I'm wrong!)]
Best bitrate is also an important feature, but that is not due to the choice of format as much as that provided by the camera itself. Bitrates out of the camera may be relative to the frame size (they are in my consumer camcorders). A common consumer grade camcorder will top out at a bitrate (for 1080) somewhere between 17.5 and 22.5 Mbps, whereas an HD capable DSLR will usually top out at (easily) *twice* as much (45Mbps average from my Canon T4i) or more. Furthermore, the DVD standard imposes framerate restrictions (max is somewhere between 5 and 8Mbps -- the software that creates your DVDs will usually transcode for best bitrate, so not something you really need to bother with - just set the transcoder to best possible quality and provide it with the best quality video that's reasonable.) Whichever camera provides the highest bitrate should be your "main" camera.
As you may have discovered: another factor for a quality video regardless of camera is shutter speed. If you set the shutter speed too high (faster than twice the frame rate) then you will have "stuttering" issues (there will be "gaps" from still frame to still frame). Keep the shutter speed at the same or no more than twice the frame rate: e.g., for 1080/30p (target) the shutter speed should never be more than 1/60th of a second (I'll use 1/30th, 1/40th, or 1/50th usually). I haven't shot a lot of 720/60p, but I think I would still keep the shutter speed at between 1/60th and 1/120th exclusively [that is -- I wouldn't go as high as 1/120th or greater... but that's me... you should experiment for best results for you. If this creates exposure issues, then consider neutral density filters or circular polarizing filters to help bring scenes into exposure range (via aperture or iso or both.)
HTH
Good luck! Have a good shoot!

Camera shutter speed?????

So I thought the camera was suppose to have a real fast shutter speed. I try to take a picture and it takes up to 5 seconds to get the shot. I miss everything this way. I cant keep my 3 year old still that long!!!

There are a couple of settings that minimize auto focus. Another trick I have learned with my 2 y/o and my Droid X camera: Hold the button down partially and it will Auto-focus, then wait for just the right moment and press the button in completely, using this method will give you a very fast response as the Auto Focus will already be complete.

Shutter speed footage

So I have some footage that has had the shutter speed changed as i done a manual setting on the camera(XLR2).
The reason i changed this was we had to film a presentation with LCD screens in the shot. So to stop the flickering of the screens i changed the Shutter speed. This obviously effects the picture. We filmed in 50i 16:9 25fps. I have now digitized the footage into fcp but obviously we still have a slight lag in the motion image. Is there a solution or effect so that i can have this footage looking more......"normal"..... rather than a little bit slow motioney??
Does frame blending help or hinder?
Thanks in advance
Nice

bananaman-dan wrote:
So I have some footage that has had the shutter speed changed as i done a manual setting on the camera(XLR2).
Maybe you changed the frame rate not the shutter speed?
bananaman-dan wrote:
The reason i changed this was we had to film a presentation with LCD screens in the shot. So to stop the flickering of the screens i changed the Shutter speed. This obviously effects [sic] the picture.
It's not obvious at all from where I sit.
bananaman-dan wrote:
We filmed in 50i 16:9 25fps. I have now digitized the footage into fcp but obviously we still have a slight lag in the motion image. Is there a solution or effect so that i can have this footage looking more......"normal"..... rather than a little bit slow motioney??
Does frame blending help or hinder?
It's not obvious at all from where I sit.
You're saying you shot at normal shutter speeds of 1/50s for most of the scenes but these interiors with the screens were shot at, what, 1/4s? And you allowed movement to occur in the shot? do we have that correct?
You have recorded image blur caused by a shutter being left open while lit objects in the frame moved. There is no way to remove those pixels that leave trails behind the objects. You must reshoot.
bogiesan

EOS 70D : Slow shutter speed when LCD screen turned on

Hi !
Need your help. I am beginner & I have new 70D camera. When LCD panel turned off, the shutter speed is quite fast. When I turn on LCD Panel, the shutter speed automatically slows down & sounds annoying. The pictures are same in both cases. Also, the high speed continuous photo shoot, the shutter speed slows down when the LCD panel is turned on. Please help me to fix this.
Solved!
Go to Solution.

There is nothing wrong with your camera. It is working as it should when using LiveView.
There are two different types of Auto Focus:
1) Normally with a Film SLR or Digital SLR, you look through the optical viewfinder and view your scene through the lens of the camera. Behind the lens a mirror reflects the image up into the optical viewfinder. When using the viewfinder the camera uses "Phase Detection" Auto Focus. With PD AF the image passes through a transparent part of the mirror to PD AF sensors below the mirror. When you half press the shutter button the AF operates and when you fully press the shutter button the mirror flips up out of the way to allow the image to reach the image sensor behind the now open shutter curtain. While the mirror is flipped up, you can not see anything through the optical viewfinder. This all takes place very quickly and makes a fair bit of noise from the action of the mirror flipping back and forth and the shutter curtain opening and closing.
2) When using LiveView on a DSLR, the rear LCD image displays the image. In order to for this to happen the mirror must be flipped up and the shutter curtain must be fully open. The optical viewfinder becomes useless and the only way to see anything is by looking at the rear LCD screen. Auto Focus is no longer done with Phase Detection sensors below the mirror and now used Contrast Detection Auto Focus is used by reading the focus right off the image sensor. This type of AF is slower than PD AF.
The difference in sound is only because the mirror is already flipped up as soon as you press the LiveView button and all you hear is the sound of the shutter curtain clsoing and then opening up again so you can once again see the image on the LCD screen . The actual shutter opening and closing speed is exactly the same.
Here is more info on how Phase Detection AF works:
Phase Detection AF
Here is the description of each number shown in the above illustration:
Ray of light
Main/Reflex Mirror
Secondary Mirror, also known as “Sub-Mirror”
Camera Shutter and Image Sensor
Eccentric pin (1.5mm hex) for adjusting the Main Mirror
Eccentric pin (1.5mm hex) for adjusting the Secondary Mirror
Phase Detect Sensor (AF Sensor)
Pentaprism
Viewfinder
Mike Sowsun
S110, SL1, 5D Mk III

Best frame rate , resolution and shutter speed Canon XF 305 for chromakeying

Hi,
I have to shoot some footage with the Canon XF305 (green screen Chromakeying) And the only progressive frame rates I can choose are ( 25P 1920x1080) or (50Pand 25P 1280x720).
What shutter speed do I have to use?
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Of course I know the best resolution, but I mean the best choices for keying.
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A high suhutter speed is improtant for crisp edges, especially if your codec is not frame-based, because your subjects will have little or no motion blur. 125th seocnd at least. faster if you can get it. Requires lots of light. You must not trade off depth of field because focus is critical to good keys, too, and you must not add gain because noise will degrade your key.
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Elements 3 WIN-file info shutter speed & aperture missing

Please forgive me if this is a duplicate but I haven't been able to locate this topic in help files, FAQs or on this forum. That doesn't mean it's not there-only that there is so much info that I can't find it.
I have a Sony DSC-H2 camera. When I open photo files from this camera in Photoshop Elements 3 and view File Info there is missing information on the Camera Data 1 tab-the aperture and shutter speed. This is supposed to be read only information.
Any ideas on why it's missing and how I can correct this?
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Motion Blur caused by Shutter Speed 50?!

Hi All,
I'm a GH2 user. Shoot in 50i-50ss-5.6f. I realized that is an effect such like "Motion Blur" which caused by the low shutter speed as I mentioned (50ss). Search around some forum, it is quite common. In fact, it looks not really comfortable to me! How do you solve this issue or perhaps reducing/smoothen the motion blur issue?
Picture like focus clear & sharp while talent do not move to left or right. Once his/her head move to left or right, there is motion blur after it. In fact, facused while talent did not move his/her head then.
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David,
Thanks for the prompt reply and confirmation.
Perhaps, 1/50 producing slow shutter speed result--motion blur? It just like a man walk from left to right in front of my cam, and the man will be blur in motion during the recording. It'll only stay focused while the man stop and stand still. Double up the shutter speed will helps this? like 1/100? Might need your opinion.
Some friends ask me "are you shooting a speedy subject?". Not really that speed or fast. Just like what i've mention above, perhaps just walking...turn around...hand up...those might blur in 1/50 shutter speed with fully Continuos Focus Function.
I'm just curious, how could those GH2 friends shooting a Dance Genre Music of MV? They are dancing, moving fast enough...but, surprise, MV is just sharp and stay focused on every person! What do you say?
Is those below's MV consider pretty smooth? Can you tell what's the shutter speed on those? Continuos Focus + Manual Focus in use?
Thanks for now and hear from you soon! Apprciate to your precious time to answer
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i9KJEbCRPI0&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5VNlsRk5FoM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vZ9YW4RfdiU
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3FmSHWnlgSw&feature=related

What shutter speed to use for 1080i60 HDV?

I shoot with an HDR-FX1. The default setting is 1/60s. I could really use the extra light provided by 1/30, given how much the 35mm lens adapter eats up.
The HDV is 29.97fps, so 1/30 would seem the best choice anyway, but being interlaced, it’s really 60 half-frames...
Will using the 1/30 affect the image quality, the way undercranking or overcranking shutter on purpose would?
Thank you,
MaW

You get more blur, but the only way to really find out is to shoot some test video to how YOU perceive the differences.
Go to a darker setting about which you are concerned, shoot some in automatic shutter (it will go no lower than 1/60th in 1080i60 (progressive scan OFF)). Either have moving objects or move the camera around. Then switch to not-auto (probably need the IRIS set to IRIS mode so you can manually set iris, gain, and shutter speed). Let the iris and gain set automatically, and just set the shutter to 1/30th (whatever) and shoot the same scenes in the same lighting conditions.
Drag 'em both into FCP and see what you like. Too much blur? No effect?
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Shutter speeds in video mode

I just read the T3i cannot autofocus in video mode, true?
On T5i can the shutter speed be set when taking video? Sometimes I need fast shutter so fast moving objects are not blurred.

Hi erokc!
Thank you for posting.
The EOS Rebel T3i can autofocus, but it works the same as when you are shooting still images. You need to activate autofocus every time you want the camera to focus the lens and before you start recording. Continuous autofocus is not possible.
When shooting movies in manual on the EOS Rebel T5i, the shutter speed, aperture and ISO can be set manually.
This didn't answer your questions? Find more help at Contact Us.
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General shutter speed of the camera in iPhone 3GS?

I'm well aware that the shutter speed in the above can't be controlled by the user, however, does anybody know WHAT the shutter speed of the iPhone is set to? Oeksen37

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15 Shutter Speed to 60 conversion?

Is it even possible? long story short. make sure someone knows how to shoot DV even if they tell you they do. she shot a wedding and took the shutter speed down to 15 so we all know what the footage looks like. is there a way to bring it back to 60 in FCP? i'm not getting my hopes up but if there is can any of you guys help me out? thanks.

Welcome to the discussions, Joel.
This is what I would try: double speed the desired clip, no frame blending. This will result in a clip that is 30FPS, but where everything is running at double speed. Export that result as a self contained QuickTime. Then I'd use the technique outlined here:
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This will take no small amount of processing power, so you may want to do it only on select clips.
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Loss of shutter speed data!!

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Marc,
Marking a question as answered when it clearly isn't is not helpful. By doing so you may well have reduced the chances of someone else providing you with the correct answer. I have therefore deleted the post. Unfortunately, the header will still show that the question has been answered, but in the event that somebody does answer it correctly, you will again have the ability to mark a post as correct.
In future, please use the buttons provided as they were intended otherwise you will be undermining the whole purpose of providing them.
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Correcting fast shutter speed in FCP

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