Corsair - Professional Series Gold 650W ATX Power Supply

Hello Best Buy community,
I recently placed an order on 01/02 for a power supply. As my computer is down without the part and school is fast approaching (obvisouly I need the PC), I went with Best Buy for express shipping and the estimated delivery date of 01/04-01/05. It's now 01/04 and my order is still processing. I waited for 25 minutes to speak to "customer service" only to be told that the product is a "special order item" but the estimated time of delivery is still 01/04. I'm bright enough to know that an order that hasn't been processed yet today holds no chance of arriving tomorrow. The customer support rep didn't share that same idea, read the info I could check via email myself, and got quiet until I said "thanks for the help".
Upon browsing Best Buy online again, I have noticed that the product is now "sold out online". What is going on? I need this part. Why was I not informed out right my product ordered wasn't even in the Best Buy warehouse, is considered "speicial order", and my wait could be longer because of that?
Solved!
Go to Solution.

Well, your first mistake was buying something from Best Buy in the first place. Unless it was an emergency, their PC components are way overpriced.
You should have either gone through "Newegg" or "Tiger Direct", better service and way better prices all the way around.
Apparently, there's more than enough sheep that enjoy bad customer service, unknowledgable service, and overpriced merchandise to keep Best Buy in business.

Similar Messages

ATX vz µATX Power supply form factor.

There are two types of power supply (socket??) available in the market nowadays. They are ATX and µATX.
- How are they differing from each other?
- Are they interchangeable each other?
Say I have MSI785GM-E51 mother board which has ATX form factor while the power supply is µATX, can I use them both/powered the M3A785GM-LE/128M with those ATX power supply?
Or can I convert the µATX to be ATX form factor?

The motherboard mentioned is mATX not ATX 785GM E51. M=mATX (µATX). It's made to fit the smaller cases but can also be used in the larger mid-tower & full tower cases if that's what you have.
µATX PSU has a different size case and mounting dimensions to fit the small mini tower PC cases and also the smaller HTPC cases. Power connections are pretty much the same between the 2 but mATX generally don't have as many power plugs for HDD & ODD.
Due to physical dimensions and different mounting they are not interchangeable.
There are many variables involved in selecting a PSU beginning with what type the PC case itself requires. If you need suggestions on what to get we need to know what CPU, on-board or dedicated graphics you will use, how many HDD's.

Want references for using ATX power supply with MDD.

There are references all over the place to adapting an ATX power supply for a MDD/FW800. But it would be nice to have links to as many useful ones as possible in one thread -- this one -- without too much superfluous verbiage.
Please post links with brief descriptive comments or, if you have some hard information that's not easily linked to, please post it as concisely as possible. Hopefully, the resulting thread will be useful to many people, and not just to me.

Watch these great YouTube videos
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xICg592xJTg
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j7RDGy34tjU&feature=fvw
Look at these links.
http://efeion.blogspot.com/2007/12/power-supply-fun-part-2.html
http://www.applefritter.com/node/23857
 Cheers, Tom

What Is the best 650w modular power supply on the market

I have looked at the evga supernova 650g but read a lot of bad reviews, I have also looked at the corsair hx650, although it is not fully modular they are said to be made for gaming and have good reviews. I think I am willing to spend around £110. Here are my important PC specs.
Intel core i7 4770 3.4ghz (socket 1150)
Asus sabertooth z87
EVGA gtx 760 FTW w/ acx cooling
Samsung spin point 1tb 7200rpm hard disk drive
I would prefer to buy a 650w i case I ever SLI my gtx 760

Quote from: badboy2k on 07-December-13, 01:18:21
a i7 4770 and i7 4770k difference is the K version is unlocked that's the difference!
rule of thumb with them is non k skews are locked to a single frequency and are limited as a result to close to intel specs and the K versions are unlocked and can be pushed harder as a result...
Thanks

**** ATX Power Supply +28V Step-Up Voltage Regulator How to ****

I'm going to try this with an atx supply for a spare MDD I have.
Here is the schematic:
http://homepage.mac.com/baakre/public/files/28v_vreg.pdf
Here is a thread on a diy job (have not finished reading it so I don't know the results yet)
http://episteme.arstechnica.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/8300945231/m/4820959925/p/2

Look in the example finder for DAQmx functions for analog input and analog output.

Upgrading Graphics card and Power supply in Dell vostro 460 mini tower

I have a dell vostro 460 with i5-2400 3.4 Ghz,12GB DDR3 RAM,350W stock PSU and msi Radeon HD 7750 gpu.I want to upgrade my GPU to Asus strix gtx 960 4GB version or maybe gtx 970 if it fits.For that i need to upgrade my PSU.So I have choosen Corsair GS 600 psu(600W),so will it fit in my mini tower.And also will a gtx 970 fit in my pc after upgrading my psu.if not then what about gtx 960 4GB variant.I am really cofused.I dont want to buy if I won't be able to use it.Pls clearify my doubts.

Plug in No post No nothing OR Plug in Post , Install Drivers, Reboot, Nothing Black Screen.There is a 6792 post thread on them not working in XPS 8700's. Any Standard EPS12v Power supply like the corsair CS750M will fit in your case.
You can test the not working theory by calling up a vendor that sells the 900 series cards and tell them you have a vostro 460 and that when you install the driver and reboot its a black screen.
Then tell them you want an RMA for a non working card and see how they dance around not giving you your money back.
The EPS12V spec 2.92 guarantees 170w combined on the 5V/3.3V rails and 20W on the 5VSB as well as 45 amps on a Single 12V rail.
http://www.microcenter.com/product/425477/CS_Series_CS750M_750_Watt_ATX_Modular_Power_Supply
http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Series-Modular-Efficient-CS750M/dp/B00GH9NA0A
http://www.corsair.com/en-us/cs-series-modular-cs750m-750-watt-80-plus-gold-certified-psu
Corsair CS Series 750 Watt ATX Modular and Efficient Power Supply CS750M is a suitable brand I find on Amazon and in Microcenter.
Corsair CS750M EPS12V 2.92
DC Output Rating
DC Output
+3.3V
+5V
+12V
-12V
+5Vsb
Max Load
25A
25A
62A
0.8A
3.0A
Maximum
130W
744W
9.6W
15W
Total Power: 750W

Power Supply Unit

Hello All,
I was wondering if this power supply will fit in my case: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Corsair+-+Gaming+Series+700-Watt+ATX+CPU+Power+Supply/1073697.p?id=12182...
I have the Gateway FX 6840-03e: http://www.tigerdirect.com/include/AddCartfromGallery.asp?EdpNo=6655831&csid=ITD&Sku=S445-10108&imgc...
I also wanted to put a single ATI 6970 into it.
Thanks,
Green

Yes it will.
If you like my post, or solution to your issue/question, go ahead and click on the little star by my name and/or accept the post as the Solution. It makes me happy.
I'm NOT an employee of Best Buy, or Geek Squad, though I did work as an Agent for a year 5 years ago. None of my posts are to be taken as the official stance that Best Buy will take on your situation. My advice is just that, advice.
Unfortunately, that's the bad luck of any electronic, there's going to be bad Apples... wait that's a horrible pun.

Guide for Selecting a Power Supply

Mod may want to make this a STICKY.
Here's a general guide on how to select a PSU for your HP desktop. The majority of standard ATX powersupply (PSU) should fit inside an HP case. The exception would be a slim line case or the esoteric Blackbird.
Look for an 80+ certification on the PSU to save electricity. A PC will normally idle or run at low load 75% of the time. Therefore, look for a PSU that's more efficient in the 50-90W range. An 80+ 350W PSU reaches the 80% efficiency level at 70W output (20% of rated output). The output must be greater than 140W to achieve the same level of efficiency from an equivalent 80+ 700W PSU. So picking a PSU that is rated 25% higher than the maximum ACTUAL load of the rig will save you more $ on electricity.
A modern PSU is designed to achieve peak efficiency between 20 and 80% of the rated output. Running a PSU above the 80% load level will result in excessive heat, noise, and premature failure.
An Nvidia rig with GeForce GTX 280 (1024MB on board RAM) will draw about 350W max from the wall. If we factor in the efficiency of a 80+ PSU, then the actual load on the PSU is only 280W (350 x 0.80). To calculate the required PSU, multiply the actual load by 1.25 (25% margin). In this case we only need a 350W PSU (280 x 1.25) to run this GPU.
Let's apply what we know to a Radeon HD 4870 (512MB on board RAM) rig. 290W max from the wall. Actual load is 290W x 0.80 or 230W. Now apply the 25% margin rule and we arrive at a PSU requirement of 290W (230W x 1.25). Even if we apply a 50% safety margin, the power requirement is still under 350W (230W x 1.50).
There is no need to overspec the PSU by 50% unless you run your PC at full load 24/7. Keep in mind that there is a huge variation in PSU quality and rating. A cheap 500W PSU may not be able to deliver as much power as a quality 350W. Antec Earthwatts/NeoPower/TruePower, Corsair, and Seasonic are quality units widely available at many US retailers.
Many high-end PSUs will need additional power from the PSU in the form of one or two 6/8 pin GPU power plug. You can purchase an adaptor to convert a 4-pin molex to 6-pin GPU power plug.
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/geforce-radeon-power,2122-3.html
This question was solved.
View Solution.

Found a review of the Corsair 400W (Seasonic-built power supply) that I've been recommending on this forum. This ATX power supply should fit inside most HP case (minus Slimline). It has ample power to drive a modern quad core plus Radeon 4870 or GTX280 video card.
At 100% load, we see a 2.5% drop in the +12VDC rail, which is still within spec and does not affect the performance of any component inside the PC. +12VDC regulation at 82% load is a superb 0.5% with 45C case temperature. Note that the power output and efficiency decrease with higher temperature.
Cheap power supplies are rated at 25C. When these units are subjected to higher case temperature, the output can drop 10-20%.
Again, we discover the sweet spot of a good PSU is 20-80%. A good 400W PSU is more than adequate for many PC users. This Corsair is only $30 after a $10 rebate. That's a great price for a quality/quiet PSU that won't put a huge dent in your wallet.
http://enthusiast.hardocp.com/article.html?art=MTYwOSw1LCxoZW50aHVzaWFzdA==
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139008&Tpk=corsair%20400w
Additional 20% off w/ promo code "Mar20", ends 3/31
Message Edited by RoyalSerpent on 03-08-2009 11:40 AM
Message Edited by RoyalSerpent on 03-08-2009 11:42 AM
Message Edited by RoyalSerpent on 03-08-2009 11:45 AM

Would this be a unnessasary upgrade (Power Supply)

Ok this is my power supply Rhycom 550W ATX Power Supply Dual Fans Gold I bought at the local Marketpro computer show for $25 bucks. NOw when I seen the 550 watts I said to myself thats more then enuff power.But then I found this great msi fourm page and see I am very rookie on the whole psu thing. I tried to use the power supply calculator but I would rather Have some expert advise on this and any help would be great I will upgrade if I have to I dont mind at all. So should I upgrade are is this just fine....
Link to the psu I have http://tekgems.com/Products/et-9619-pwr-atx550p4-nb.htm

I might be missing something on that website but I could not find the
Max output combined watts for the 3.3v and 5v rails. Don’t buy any
PSU that does not have at least 200 combined watts!
Also, if you add up the amps I come up with 532 amps @ 100%,
now if you take those 532 amps @ 70% you get 372.4 amps,
that’s not to good for a 550watt PSU!
Usually in PSU, you get what you pay for!
Take a look at this thread on “Choosing the right power supply” by
clarkkent57 its a very good read:
Choosing the right
power supply
Take care,
The H2O Guru
If You Build The Circuit, The Electrons Will Come, You Hope!
Enermax 550 v1.2 EG651P-VE PSU
+3.3V @ 36A / +5V @ 36A / +12V @ 36A
+5V & +3.3v = 200Watts
Nvidia MB Chipset Drivers v3.13
Nvidia VGA Drivers v56.72

Will this power supply work with my PC?

Will this power supply work with my PC? I have a Compaq Presario SR5816F
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4CP1GF8726&cm_re=power_supplies_500w-_-9SIA4CP1G...
http://www.amazon.com/Solid-Gear-Series-ATX12V-SDGR-500BX/dp/B00FF7VEJE
This question was solved.
View Solution.

JCGood1984, welcome to the forum.
The computer should take a standard ATX power supply unit (PSU). I suggest measuring the existing PSU and compare the measurements to the one in the links. If the measurements are the same, it should fit. I don't know anything about the brand, however.
Please click the "Thumbs up + button" if I have helped you and click "Accept as Solution" if your problem is solved.
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What power supply do I need for a dead AGP G4 with upgraded processor

I recently upgraded my 400Mhz G4 to a dual 500Mhz board and a bigger, faster HD. I also replaced the internal battery but now the Mac... she is dead. No power, no lights, no nothing.
Will I need an upgraded power supply for the new board, or is it just old and time for a replacement power supply.
I found this on Ebay... will it work?
"This 237W Astec power supply (Apple part# 614-0108) is a clean, working pull from a revision 2 Power Mac G4 AGP Graphics/Sawtooth series computer (e.g. 350/400/450/500 MHz single processor) and will also work perfectly in previous models as well. "
Thanks!
AGP G4, Dual 500, 768Mb RAM Mac OS X (10.3.9)

Hi,
The AGP Sawtooth Mac can be switched to an ATX PSU. Later models (Gigabit G4, Digital Audio, Quicksilver and later) have a different power supply and motherboard that passes 28 Volts DC from the power supply to a connector for the ADC port graphics card. (28 VDC is passed to the Graphics card ADC port to power Apple's ADC monitors, introduced in Summer 2000 MWNY.) A standard PC ATX Power Supply does not have 28V DC and will not be pin compatible with the Gigabit G4 and later G4 systems.
Here are some DIY web pages, if you are interested in doing this:
http://www.xlr8yourmac.com/systems/ATXG4_AGP_conversion/G4_AGP_to_ATX_casepg2.htm#next
http://www.amugsicilia.it/recensioni/sawtooth_ATX/index.html
http://bbs.xlr8yourmac.com/ubb/Forum27/HTML/000631.html
http://bbs.xlr8yourmac.com/ubb/Forum27/HTML/000639.html
http://strangedogs.proboards40.com/index.cgi?board=general&action=display&thread =1121532398
http://www.outofspec.com/frankenmac/wire.shtml
Regards,
Dave

NX6800GT-T2D256E, Power supply and 6-pin connector

My NX6800GT-T2D256E came with a power adapter: 2x 4-pin Molex to a 6-pin connector that goes into the VGA-Card.
I've noticed that I have an identical 6-pin connector directly on my power supply (a Cieftec GPS-400AA-101A)
According to the power supply's manual, it is a PCI power connector, seemingly for powering PCI-express VGA cards.
Of course I want to use that connector, as it seems to be the ideal way of powering the card, but first I compared the pin configuration to make sure it is the same thing - and found a slight difference.
On the Adapter supplied with the card, 1 of the pins is empty (not connected) while on the connector from my power supply it is connected to +12V
Basically the pin configuration looks like this:
1 4
2 5
3 6
On the adapter supplied with the card they are:
1: +12V
2: NOT CONNECTED
3: +12V
4: Ground
5: Ground
6: Ground
On the power supply they are:
1: +12V
2: +12V
3: +12V
4: Ground
5: Ground
6: Ground
Can I safely use the connector from my power supply or could the additional +12V damage my VGA card?

Your PC has a standard ATX power supply and physical sizes will vary slightly. You might want to measure the dimensions of your power supply. Normally the standard ATX PSU will measure 5.9" by 5.5" by 3.4". You don't want to get too far away from the dimensions of your PSU since the HP mini-tower cabinets are very tight inside. I prefer the modular model PSUs to help with excess cabling issues. www.newegg.com has many good brands. Not all PSUs are created equal. Look at the warranty period, amperage on the 12+ volt bus, specification level, i7 support, efficiency rating etc..
OCZ, Enermax, Corsair and Rosewill are all good brands as is Thermaltake.
HP DV9700, t9300, Nvidia 8600, 4GB, Crucial C300 128GB SSD
HP Photosmart Premium C309G, HP Photosmart 6520
HP Touchpad, HP Chromebook 11
Custom i7-4770k,Z-87, 8GB, Vertex 3 SSD, Samsung EVO SSD, Corsair HX650,GTX 760
Custom i7-4790k,Z-97, 16GB, Vertex 3 SSD, Plextor M.2 SSD, Samsung EVO SSD, Corsair HX650, GTX 660TI
Windows 7/8 UEFI/Legacy mode, MBR/GPT

Shock Therapy - An Athlon64 / FX Power Supply Guide

I used to make a hardware list of all the components I would like to incorporate in my next
computer build. Normally...at the bottom of that list would be the power supply, not that I
didn't think it was important, it's just that my other hardware was so interesting! Today, power supplys
seem to take a back seat to blazing-speed CPU's, Dual-Cored processors, glitz and glamour
video cards...not to mention supersonic, heat-sinked RAM and modular, gizmoe'd PSU's promising not
only over-achiever specifications, but eye-candy as well. The lowly PSU....tucked up somewhere inside
it's dark and lonely loft....effortlessly supplying us with the energy required for important 3D imaging
or just funning with the latest games.
What a power supply does is rather simple. It converts your office or home's socketed electricity to
usable 3.3v, 5.0v and 12.0v energy...that's all. A power supply that cannot efficiently do this will-
over time-cause computer crashes, continuous reboots and shutdowns, and worse...expensive component damage.
And now, with faster processors such as AMD's Athlon64 and FX line of CPU's, never has there been a time, when
choosing the right power supply is so important! This article is written for those using these high-powered CPU's!
Well...Do we have your attention!?
If you are experiencing these problems, or still scratching your head over that last RMA....could be
your PSU is trying to tell you something.
To begin with, a power supply's ratings refer to its maximum output under ideal conditions. No power
supply is 100% efficient. In high-quantity manufacturing, power supplys may not put out any more than 60% of
their advertised specifications. In any PSU, that rating can be further reduced by the effects of heat
and electro-magnetic radiation. That's where "switching" power supplys come in. A switching power supply draws
only as much current that is needed from the AC input. Buying a hefty PSU with this feature will guarantee
that you will be paying no more for electric service, than you would with a cheaper, less powerful unit.
One of the most common causes of power supply inefficiency, and ultimately failure is dirt. Dust and
foreign materials can cause the beginning of the end for a power supply, by attacking the fan first.
It begins by slowing the fan down...thus creating heat through friction, then ultimately burning it out.
PSU's with high-quality ball bearing fans are a must. They are far more durable, and not as likely to
become noisier as time goes by.
As a general rule...a failing PSU will usually emit abnormal sounds, followed by unstable voltage readings....
then the computer crashes or lock-ups, with random shutdowns, and sometimes...refusal to even power-up.
If you think your power supply is on its last leg...better to deal with it now, or face the more serious dilemmas later on.
APM (Advanced Power Management)
APM is a feature originally developed by partners, Microsoft and Intel. It relates to a systems ability
to utilize different states in regards to a systems utilization of power. On, Off, Standby and Suspend
are examples...these are BIOS features, not PSU functions. APM only requires of the power supply, the
function to turn power on or off through an electrical signal, and the presence of stand-by voltage.
All ATX power supplys are required to incorporate this feature. However, if some components in a computer
are not APM-compliant, your system may encounter errors or freezes when going into hibernate or stand-by
modes.
ACPI (Advanced Control Power Interface)
It's the latest power management control that was developed by a conglomeration of IT corporations. This interface
is O.S. derived, rather than BIOS, and all ATX power supplys should be ACPI-compliant. You should not have to be
concerned about this feature.
Line-Conditioning Circuitry
A power supply component that helps control power levels, spikes and surges in
the most unreliable of home sockets.
EMI Filter
This circuitry smooths the fluctuations of incoming AC currents, also known
as Electro-Magnetic Interference - EMI filters are usually found in higher-end power supplys.
PFCC
Power Factor Correction Circuitry...smooths out sudden, initial spikes in power
delivery - reducing amplitude and preventing circuit overloads.
Connectors
There are five main connectors found on the latest version ATX power supply.
1) ATX main power connector - 20-pin, 24-pin, and 20 to 24-pin adapter.
2) ATX 12v power connector (4-pin to CPU)
3) Molex peripheral power connector
4) Floppy power connector
5) Serial ATA power connector
On newer SLI-certified power supplys, you'll find two 6-pin video card connectors.
Know What You Need
When purchasing a power supply, make sure your parts list is all-inclusive...know ahead of time, what you expect to
install in your system. You should also visit the motherboard manufacturer's site, as well as the CPU's. Most of the
products will have specifics regarding power supply requirements needed for that specific component. Unfortunately, you
really won't know how well the PSU performs until it is installed and running your system (hopefully!) This is the main reason we
recommend the most popular brands - power supplys that have shown a duration of manufacturing quality over the years. Those are
as follows: Antec, Enermax, OCZ, PC Power and Cooling, Tagan, and a few newcomers such as SeaSonic and Silverstone are
worth looking into.
If you believe you have found the PSU of choice, remember this: AMD recommends a minimum 350 watt power supply to run
Athlon64 and FX CPU's. To that, add the 30% for power lost to heat, and the subsequent electro-magnetic radiation. Hold on with that
calculator...throw in an additional 40% to 60% for the "potential" inaccuracies of specifications inherent in mass-produced electronics.
Pay special attention to outputs on either single, or dual rail +12v lines. A motherboard, CPU, and graphics card can consume up to
150 watts alone - before hooking up your remaining components. If running an SLI configured board, look for a PSU that is certified
to run that configuration...there's only a few PSU's that lay claim to that!
Broken down, you can look at it this way: An Athlon64/FX processor can use up to 90 watts off the +12v rail. High performance RAM
can take in about 25 watts for each stick of 256MB system memory from the +3.3v line. PCI cards will use about 10 watts each, while
an AGP video card can consume about 50 precious watts alone from the +5v or +12v. Hard drives? A 7,200 RPM drive...about 15 watts
each, taken from the +5v and +12v rail. Finally, but not absolutely is the optical drives...robbing about 20 watts each, also from
the +5v and +12v lines. So you see....not only is the +12v amp ratings of concern, but also the +5v line!
In doing the math...on a system incorporating an Athlon64 (say a 4000+), 2 sticks of high-end RAM, 2 or 3 PCI cards, 1 mid-to-high
end AGP video card, 2 ~ 7,200 RPM hard drives, and a couple of CD/RW or DVD/RW opticals...you're looking at a "base" requirement of 270 to 325 watts. That's for a running system...now figure boot-up loads, 30% for heat and radiation bleed-off, then a 40% safety factor for manufacturing inconsistencies...you've got a power supply in the 450 to 520 watt range!
Modular Power Supplys:
The pins that are used for the modular plugs are not very good at passing current. It's basically electrical resistance between the male and female components, and voltage "drops" are likely. In real world events, they will become loose, dirty, corrosive, and eventually burn. You can figure about 10% less efficiency with a modular power supply.
Now you can understand how manufacturing "tolerances" that are inaccurate by 40% to 60%, can have such a devastating effect on
the performance of your new system. If you follow these simple guidelines, bearing in mind the hardware you will be using, and what
your intended use of the computer is for...then it will be one less dramatic incident when pushing the power button for the first time!
Here's a neat little tool....a bit out of date - that can give you a basic idea of what you'll need in a PSU.
You can apply the percentages above, for an even more accurate assesment of your PSU requirements!
http://www.jscustompcs.com/power_supply/Power_Supply_Calculator.php?cmd=AMD

Quote
In doing the math...on a system incorporating an Athlon64 (say a 4000+), 2 sticks of high-end RAM, 2 or 3 PCI cards, 1 mid-to-high
end AGP video card, 2 ~ 7,200 RPM hard drives, and a couple of CD/RW or DVD/RW opticals...you're looking at a "base" requirement of 270 to 325 watts. That's for a running system...now figure boot-up loads, 30% for heat and radiation bleed-off, then a 40% safety factor for manufacturing inconsistencies...you've got a power supply in the 450 to 520 watt range!
Well, except the CPU, my system has all that you mentioned there (I even have 3 optical drives). And my 350W PSU has been rock solid for more than a year (BeQuiet, = Tagan, IIRC). I don't think a 4000+ needs 100W more than my 3200+ . And that link you posted says that the minimum recommended PSU for my system is 506W xD. Come on.
Oh, and in the place I work there are 6 amd64 with GeForce 6800 GT and 2GB RAM with 380W Antec PSUs. All 100% stable, of course.
I would only go for >400W if I wanted to do extreme OC (with overvolting), or SLI. Otherwise, a good brand 350W PSU is more than enough.

Power supply from g3 into a g4?

Hi ! i have a G4 533 which is kinda dead, and have a B&W G3 which is fine. i wanted to try to switch the power supplies, but i thought i'd ask here first to see if anyone knew if they were compatable. MOst of the number specs look the same, but not 100%.
thanks for any help!
j

The Digital Audio G4 and Gigabit Ethernet 22 pin Power supplies are interchangeable and have a nasty habit of dying which is why they are so expensive on the used market. No other Mac PSU will work in either model.
You can convert an ATX power supply to work but it's a little complicated. See this link:
http://forums.macrumors.com/showthread.php?t=261623

Looking to upgrade the video card and power supply in the K330

Hello, I'm looking to upgrade the power supply and video card in the Lenovo IdeaCentre K330 but I need to know if these parts will be accepted by the mobo.
Here's the card name (no link, don't know if theres a restriction to off site links) ASUS 2GB GDDR5 DIGI+ VRM technology Graphics Cards HD7770-2GD5
The power supply name follows: Xion High Performance 1000 Watt ATX Power Supply XON-1000P14F
Thanks for reading, and extra thanks for a good reply

Thanks for replying, I have looked into other PSU's and came up with this: XFX PRO750W Core Edition 80+ Bronze ATX 750 Energy Star Certified Power Supply
Feedback? And main question is, will they both (video card and PSU) be compatible with the motherboard that come standard in the K330?
I don't really have a need for the front panel except the power, and backontrack buttons.
Also, the reason why I'm getting a high wattage PSU is because I might later decide to build my own PC with the upgraded parts, and put the old parts back into the K330

Corsair - Professional Series Gold 650W ATX Power Supply

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