Could my emac be dead

I came home and i could see my emac was not on, but my external HD was on.
The emac seems dead. I cant get it to start or even make any sound.
I tried different outlets but to no luck.
Could my Emac just have died?
I keep trying the start up button--but there is nothing but absolute silence?
it appears that it need CPR but I dont know how to try and boot it up
i cant get any drive or anything to turn on, no keys no keyboard no holding down the power on button is working
please help
thanks
so much

Before you go farther, what is the exact model of your eMac? There were quite a few with USB 2.0 and 1.25G processors that had very serious logic board problems. Some of the non-cataloged 1G eMacs with USB2.0 (the "Edu-eMac") were also affected. There was a repair extension program but it is now expired.
Affected serial number range:
G8412xxxxxx - G8520xxxxxx, YM412xxxxxx - YM520xxxxxx or VM440xxxxxx - VM516xxxxxx.
As your computer seems locked up, you'll need to find the serial number manually. See this Apple document for instructions:
eMac: How to locate the serial number and identify your model
If your serial number starts with the letter "R", the unit was a refurb and that list of serial numbers will not work for you.
If you are in the US, there is a company in Oregon that does a flat-fee repair of the problem that is must less expensive than getting a new logic board. If you find you have an affected model, post back and I will find that company's link.

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Emac with dead display

Hi guys. I was lucky enough to pick up a triplet of eMacs yesterday. one of them is a 700mhz model that was working until the power button tore off. The other two I was told were 1ghz models, but the CD tray reports 1.25ghz (woohoo!!)
The one is in pieces, and the thermal pipe is too bent for me to fix it, so I am focusing on the one that is together. It chimes, I get the white light, and using my aluminum keyboard, I am able to make the volume pop, and eject the drive, so I know it is fully booted. I tried the brightness buttons, but they have no effect.
The display does make a crackling noise when it comes on like the 700mhz model, but nothing comes up, and I don't get the static feel from the front glass like I can on other monitors. There is however a quick flash of light in the upper left corner of the monitor. it only happens once, and only for a second.
The machine is sadly not covered under the repair program, since the serial number does not match with the ones in the program. However, and what is odd, the last 3 digits of the serial number do not match with the Apple KB on how to identify your eMac, and the configuration is an odd one: 1.25ghz/256mb/40gb/CD. According to mactracker, the 1.25ghz model only came with a combo or superdrive. Also, this model, like the other 2, does not have a modem, even though the port symbol is still there. I got these from a school, so that would explain that.
If I brought this in to an apple store, do you think they would be able to do anything with it, or does anyone know what the problem is so I could fix it myself? In my mind, it is worth it, and would make a fine replacement for my battle weary B&W G3. I have been looking for a faster machine that can run leopard, and this is it. If I can't get it fixed, I might just end up buying a mini VGA adapter and use it with my LCD, but I was hoping to get the higher than 1024x768 resolution of the built in CRT.

Thanks for all the help. I got a 3rd 1.25ghz mac, a consumer model with a bad motherboard with leaked capacitors. I was told it had a bad tube, but I swapped in the mobo from the one that sounded like it was booting fully, and tada!! a much newer mac than my B&W G3 for free!! I even got a modem out of it from the dead motherboard. Not that I will need it anytime soon, but you never know. it went in the machine just in case.
I am now in the process of reassembling the 700mhz and hopefully I will have 2 eMacs. I hope the shell from the 1.25ghz will work, even though there are 2 fewer screws. It does fit, and it is my only shell with a working power button at this point.
About the only issue is the tube is kinda pink when she first boots (the grey screen with the apple logo has a light pink hue to it), but it goes away after a few minutes. I hope that does not mean it's dying. The machine also seems to take quite a long time to power up. About 20 seconds from the time I press the power button until I get anything on the screen. Must need to warm up, but coming out of sleep mode, the screen is up in less than 5 seconds.

Did I Kill My eMac? Dead hard Drive? Help if you can!

I don't know what happened, but here's the setup (Please help if you can). emac with 10.4.6 768 RAM. I was going to copy a DVD using Toast. I put in the original and as usual, the computer grabbed the files, then opened the tray and asked me to put in a blank DVD. I wasn't at the computer at the time, and by the time I was back in the office, the computer had gone to sleep, with the tray open, waiting for me to put in a blank. I touched the mouse to wake it, and nothing happened. I touched the return key, and nothing happened. I moved the mouse, tapped return repeatedly and nothing happened. After waiting a few minutes, and having no luck trying to use force quit, or anything else, I finally held the power button till it shut off. Waited a bit and went to start it again. When powered up, I got the usual happy Mac chime chord. The screen blinked grey a couple times, went to a blue screen with a flashing file folder/question mark logo. Which to me means it can't find the system or the HD. As I had it handy, I popped in Tech Tool, restarted off that CD and it could not find the hard drive either. Frustrated, went to bed. Today, I've unplugged and let it sit. Reset the PMU, zapped the pram, and started off the system install disc..that also couldn't find the HD for installing. When I opened disk Utilties it at least listed the HD as existing, but when I highlighted it and clicked on "repair" I got a message that said " Invalid B-Tree Node size. Volume Check Failed. Volume could not be repaired because of an error. And also a poop up window that said "the underlying task reported failure on exit". None of which sounded too good to me!
Any tricks left for me to try to bring this baby back to life? Note that this IS one of the models with the power supply/video issues that I have not had repaired,k as it's 200 miles to the Apple shop, and I have to bring it in, have them look at it, order the parts, wait till they get them in, fix it, then drive back to fetch it, which just hasn't been in my schedule yet.
It's like the hard drive just isn't running. I don't hear any of the drive "thinking" sounds when I try to start it up.
Is plugging in an external firewire drive and installing the system on that an idea? Something that would get me by for a while anyway? I'm getting by with my iBook, but for the wook I do, it's pretty touch on a 12" laptop! Luckily any real critical files and stuff I do have backed up on DVD, but I'd like to get 'er going!
Any ideas welcome!

Hi timinbovey
That's a temperamental Tiger is it not? I've heard hard shutdowns can cause problems, but that is pretty unforgiving.
There is little point trying to reinstall without first attempting to correct the 'Invalid B-Tree Node size' error.
So your Tech Tool pro disk was no help. Hmm.
The fastest and most expensive option would be to buy DiskWarrior which could fix the corrupt file structure on the disk.
Before that you could try and start in FireWire target disk mode where you put your iBook's HD on the eMac's Desktop, then insert the Tech Tool pro disk into the iBook and running it from the iBook's drive see if it can see the eMac's drive and perform a repair on it.
regards roam

EMac HD dead?

I have an eMac 1.25 Ghz that suddenly crashed and won't boot up. I am pretty sure it sounds like a dead hard drive because I hear clicking noise as it tries to access it to boot up. All I get when I try to start is a grey screen and eventually a flashing folder icon. I believe this happened after a power surge.
Things I tried:
1. it boots successfully from install CD but the install CD doesn't recognize the HD as existing to repair disk of check permissions
2. it boots fine from a firewire drive, same, not recognizing the internal hd
3. it successfully boots target firewire and again fails to see the internal HD
4. I tried zapping pram to no avail
5. I even heard of turning the computer upside down and rebooting, although I don't know if that's a myth. I tried it anyway and no luck.
So, any thing else anyone can think of? I know I can just put in a new HD but that is a lot of work to crack open that sucker (to get to the HD) compared to an iMac G3.
Any ideas will be graciously thanked!
Paul

The "turn the computer upside down" sounds like a garbled suggestion of reseting the PMU using the PMU reset button inside the battery compartment; since your Mac is starting up, just can't find an internal HD, that's an unnecessary step.
Your diagnoses of a dead HD sounds unfortunately accurate. You can replace the internal HD; see Apple eMac Upgrade Guide. You may find it just as easy to pick up an external Firewire HD, format it as Mac OS Extended (Journaled) / HFS+ (most drives other than those from LaCie come formated as Windows NTFS, which the Mac can read but not write), and install OS X onto the external drive using your OS X Install optical disc. Make sure any external drive has Firewire ports; PowerPC Macs such as the eMac cannot boot off an external USB drive. You can buy a complete drive ready to go out of the box from online vendors (e.g., LaCie drives from Small Dog Electronics); to save money, you can buy a bare (internal) hard drive and put it in a Firewire case yourself (see PT: HD drive replacement tips).
The first time you boot from the external drive (and anytime you boot after doing a PRAM reset; see What's stored in PRAM?), you'll hold the option key down to bring up Startup Manager, then open System preferences and set Startup Disk to the external HD.
With a bootable external Firewire HD, you can see if the one-file evaluation copy of Data Rescue can find the damaged internal HD, which would let you recover any files on the HD not backup up onto other media. Drive Genius may be worth looking at, too.
You'll want to protect your electronics from future power glitches. Be warned that common inexpensive surge protectors use as few as one MOV to clamp power spikes, and are are essentially one-shot protection devices --- the first surge that comes down the line will pretty well remove any future protection from such surge outlets (a green status LED is meaningless). Better surge protectors use multiple redundant MOVs along with inductors and capacitors; they cost more but can provide real protection. The reference surge protector in the lab where I work is the Tripp Lite Isobar line (prices are lower on Amazon than on their website).
An even better choice would be an Uninterpretable Power Supply (UPS), which will protect against momentary brownouts and blackouts as well as power surges. I've used various APC BackUPS models. Connect the UPS to the Mac via USB cable, and in OS X 10.3 and later, Energy Saver will then show a UPS tab where you can set the Mac to shut down gracefully in case of an extended power outage.

Could my CPU be dead?

I can't get my beloved beige to start up. The power supply comes on but no chime and the hard drive only makes a little noise before going quiet.
I have two drives in the computer. At first one drive was acting squirrelly. Then while trying to do maintenence, it wouldn't boot to it. Eventually I couldn't even get the 2nd drive to boot.
I've checked all the usuals. I got a new battery in case. all cards are seated. I hadn't been inside the box for a long time, so I'm sure I didn't move anything.
I worried at getting no chime.
Any ideas? Is my poor ol' tired, overclocked and overworked chip dead?
Al

Well, I actually raised my computer from the dead. But, things are still all messed up. I'm on my copy of 10.2 right now. It's been a long time since I used this OS. I just needed to take a break and get back online with my Apple before I continue on anymore.
I took all of my cards, memory, rom, and personality card out, and cleaned the contacts, and re- installed everything back to the way it was before it started acting up.
I got it booted and into a volume with OS 9. Then things start acting up again. I can't get anything to boot from CD. The OS 9 volume will give a warning that the disk is not readable, do I want to initialize...I cancel, wait a minute or so, and then the same box, but suggesting 134GB size instead of 4.3 like before. Cancel, wait a minute, then it boots into 9. My Panther volume shows as untitled. 2 other volumes on that disk show as unmounted. All of my volumes on this disk show up.
I'm going to try and launch Disk Warrior again but from this OS 10.2 volume.
My problem started with XPF. It won't synchronize. It says it's copying the mach_kernel, then stops with a dialog box saying could not complete your request because there was a problem copying the mach_kernel.... hmmm.
I used to be able to use XPF to boot right into Disk Warrior. Not now.
Any ideas?
At least I'm getting some clues now. And, at least I'm back on my beloved Mac again! even if it is in 10.2. It was only giving me the power supply and nothing else!? I'm not sure what fixed that part, but, I love it. This thing is like an old ford. Just keep tinkering with it. It ain't dead yet..!
I'm gonna try and get DW launched. If nothing else. I'll hook the PC up again later to see if I have any replies.
Thanks,
Allen

Could the battery be dead after one year?

Without any warning my one year old Ipad 2 won't power up. Shouldn't the battery have stopped holding a full charge before that happened? I have not dropped the iPad or had any accident with it. So I'm very surprised that it has stopped working.

You know anything is possible right? And not all iPads are capable of living for 2 - 9 years.
Have you tried charging it while starting it?
Have you tried contacting the "Apple"?
Have you tried going to any nearby Apple Store and check if your iPad needs battery replacement?
If all of these suggestions does not work, well it's bad news for you buddy.

Can't get eMac onto existing network

Hi,
I have an iMac G5 running Tiger 10.4.9 in my home office connected to a BT Homehub broadband modem / router via an ethernet cable.
My wife uses an eMac 1GHz G4 running Panther 10.3.9 in a nearby bedroom that connects to the internet via Airport Express through the BT modem.
I recently bought a MacBook Core2Duo running 10.4.9 and connect to the internet via Airport & the BT modem.
I have successfully created a network between the iMac and the MacBook wirelessly but cannot connect to the eMac with either.
The Mac's are all named differently but we have the same admin password for all three Macs. The eMac 'sees' the other two Macs but when I click on connect for either under Finder - network when asked for a password on the eMac the password is incorrect so cannot connect.
I have no idea what this other password could be, when or how I set it. The eMac works flawlessly otherwise and connects to the internet no problem.
Any advice would be most welcome. Many thanks for reading this.
iMac G5 20" 2.0GHz 1Gb RAM black MacBook Core2Duo 2GHz 1Gb RAM Mac OS X (10.4.9) eMac 1GHz 512Mb RAM 10.3.9 black 30Gb iPod Video 5G

In paragraph 4, you say that you cannot connect to the eMac when initiating a connection from either the iMac or the MacBook. Then in paragraph 5, you say the eMac sees the iMac and the MacBook but it cannot connect to either one.
So, just to make sure I understand, you cannot connect to anything from the eMac nor can you connect to the eMac from anything, i.e., both directions to/from the eMac are dead?
In either case, following on with Robbie's post, you are specifying either the short username or the long user name of the user account that you want to access on the destination machine when attempting to login?

How do you know if the battery is completely dead?

I'm pretty sure that my iPod Shuffle's battery is completely dead. Even though I charged it longer than the alotted time there's no charge and the indicator light doesn't come on.
How can I replace the battery?

If the battery check light shows nothing, and the front status light is similarly dead, then you can assume no power. That could certainly mean a dead battery.
The battery is not a user-replaceable item. Apple's official solution is provided through the battery replacement program, which you can find discussed and described on the iPod Shuffle Support Page and elsewhere.
I think you'll find the price delta between that and simply buying a refurb isn't that great. Something else to keep in mind is that that's what you're doing anyway; you don't get your own machine back.
You can open the Shuffle up and try replacing it yourself, if you like. It will involve some fine work and some soldering, but some have claimed success. There are now sources for the batteries themselves. Guidance for all of that can be found online.

Z22 Appears Dead

My Z22 stopped working. I did not have any warning that anything was going wrong, but one day recently I tried to turn it on and nothing happened - blank screen.    I tried recharging it (using a charger I had used several times in my car's lighter), but there was no sign of any life. Left it plugged in for several hours. Still nothing. What could be wrong? Dead rechargeable battery? If so, how can I get a new one? Have I lost all my data anyway?
I had many important phone numbers and addresses which I need and, unfortunately, I did not have back-up.
Am I out of commision or is there still a chance to salvage something.
Thanks for your  help!
Carlteamd
Post relates to: Palm Z22

The Z22 should not lose any data while it is powered off.
Try this procedure to see if you can wake up the Z22. With the power supply plugged in, press the reset button on the back of the handheld several times in a row to see if the handheld will power on. If that does not work, plug in the Z22 to the AC power supply and let it charge overnight and then try the reset button procedure again.
If you get the Z22 to power on, I would suggest you sync to the PC to backup your data.
For reference purposes, click on the following link for the support page for your device on the kb.palm.com webpage.
http://kb.palm.com/wps/portal/kb/na/zire/z22/unlocked/home/page_en.html
There are links on the page to the user guide, troubleshooting, how to's, downloads, etc.

EMACS for word processing?

I've heard some stuff about EMACS being usable for word processing... How usable is it? Can it be made to do WYSIWYG editing of documents with headers, footers, and/or double-spaced text, in a format that MS Office will be able to read?
(If you must know, I have to deal with MLA format in an academic setting, and am not a huge fan of Abiword or OOo when it comes to actually writing stuff...)

[Edit: posted too slow, but some stuff near the end may be of interest...]
You could use emacs to create LaTeX source files. (See texlive for LaTeX packages for Arch.) Emacs has a number of extensions to aid with LaTeX document composition, the best known being AUCTeX. While it does have some preview features, AUCTeX by itself is not exactly WYSIWYG, though these days most LaTeX users generate PDF documents which shows them exactly what the output will be before printing.
The quality of LaTeX typesetting is much better than what you get by default with MS Office or Open Office or AbiWord. Once you have a LaTeX document, converting it to one of those formats feels like a downgrade. But if you needed to generate something that they can handle for the purposes of collaborating with a colleague, you could use tex4ht, which has scripts for converting to ODT or HTML. There are other conversion methods too.
I use vim for LaTeX composition personally, and almost never need to use a Word Processor.
I hate to invoke stereotypes, but most liberal arts profs don't know a lot about computers.
Well, I am a liberal arts (philosophy) prof... so infer from that what you will.
Last edited by frabjous (2010-10-28 19:31:14)

Mysteriously DEAD after inserting CD ROM?

backstory
Today I turned on my year (and two weeks) old MacBook pro. When I inserted a CD ROM it made a weird stuttering noise, almost like the disc was hitting against some component. Then the entire computer suddenly shut off, no sleep light, and nothing from the power indicator light on the side.
what I tried
My first step was plugging into a power adapter (because by freak coincidence it could have been a dead battery). This resulted in no change what-so-ever. My MacBook still wouldn't power on - and even weirder, when holding down the power button I heard a faint 'blipping' noise, almost like it was trying to start but couldn't.
Oddly enough the mac still seemed to have some power - the CD had partially ejected before the shut down. When I pushed it lightly the Mac sucked it into the case.
I needed the CD for my work, and my laptop wasn't giving any other indications of life. With no other option I managed to pull it out using two plastic cards. This lead to another weird occurrence - upon completely removing the disc my laptop made the distinct 'power on' sound it usually makes when you hit the power button. This sound halted abruptly before finished as if the power on signal had suddenly been cancelled.
With the optical drive as my only lead, I tried inserting the cd back in. There was no response from my laptop at this point (it didn't try to suck the cd back in). HOWEVER when I tried the power on button at this point my MacBook booted. The battery power indicator lights on the side turned back on when pressed and everything since this point has been normal.
help solving this mystery??
So where does this leave me? I'm happy my MacBook is up and operational but I'm concerned that something is seriously amiss under it's unibody case. I'm reluctant to take it to a genius bar because as previously mentioned I am two weeks passed the warranty. I haven't tried inserting another CD into the drive for obvious reasons.
My instinct is something in the optical drive short-circuited or interfered with the power system, but I have no experience with how the internal components of a MacBook are actually laid out, so this could be completely off base. Anyone have any suggestions or ideas?? What caused this and is something seriously wrong?

Well, I did have a PC that had a drive issue and it did some weird stuff. When it came time to getting the computer to boot, it wouldn't boot if there was a CD in the drive. This was due to the fact that the drive was defective and when it would try to read the CD it would just hang there. This was due to the fact that the drive was trying to read the disc and the computer wouldn't pass POST because while it was waiting to read the disc (which it couldn't read because it had a problem) it wouldn't report back what type of drive it was. The computer would hang there until removing the disc. As soon as I would remove the disc, the POST would pass and the computer would start right back up. Other times, it would past POST if it hadn't realized there was a disc in the drive yet but when it came time to loading Windows, it would hang up there because it was set to boot first off the CD drive and because it was waiting to see if it was a bootable disc, it would hang up there. I am telling you this because it was just simply a $30 part that went bad (the drive itself) that caused the whole computer to act up while booting. This could be similar to what was going on there. I can't know for sure because I can't see what is going on with the POST on the MacBook, but it could very well be a similar problem that the drive is causing POST to fail which is why the computer won't go any further.

19 dead pixels in Isight camera of new 27' imac i7

Hi there, I received my new Imac 27" i7 yesterday. I was very happy at first as I could not find any dead pixels however when I used my Isight camera I was very upset. I found a total of 19 dead + stuck pixels in the isight camera making it really unusable, I was shocked with this. How is it possible for there to be so many? Has anyone else checked their isight cameras? If you put a black cloth over it or if you are wearing a black top you will be able to see them much better. This is my first post so I'm sorry if I am taking over someone's thread.
I'm sorry I have posted the same post in several different topics but I could not work out how to post a question at first.
Apple said they are sending me a replacement but I am scared that it will have other problems now. But how can 19 pixels be possible is what baffles me?

I'm really upset guys, I got my replacement and I waited forever for it. Now it is even worse:
1. Isight has 16 dead/stuck pixels in it
2. Screen has several dead pixels
3. I have had a few issues with screen flickering/blackout
4. The computer is extremely slow compared to the first one even after the software update and the same things done to it, in particular Imovie is pretty much impossible to use now with the amount of lag.
5. Probably the worst as it is a physical defect: There is a tiny crack within the black glass border that I noticed straight away although it is small + The glass is not perfectly aligned so the silver chin sticks out on the left side.
Its going back, if next one is bad then I'm getting a refund for the time being. Oh and my first one was a week 46 and the replacement is a week 48 which was supposed to have resolved the issues...don't think so

I think my 4s has a dead pixel?

This is my 4th iPhone 3G, 3GS, 4 and now 4s. I e gas it about 2 weeks and just noticed a small black dot in the upper right, it is not dirt and is present on all screens. Could this be a dead pixel? If so is this grounds enough for a replacement? Thanks.

If you need you battery replaced see below, or bring it in to Apple Store for them to have a look, besides battery the hardisk might also be at the end of life.
iPod Owners
Your one-year warranty includes replacement coverage for a defective battery. You can extend your coverage to two years from the date of your iPod purchase with the AppleCare Protection Plan for iPod. During the plan’s coverage period, Apple will replace the battery if it drops below 50% of its original capacity. If it is out of warranty, Apple offers a battery replacement for $49 (iPod shuffle), $59 (iPod nano and classic), $79 (iPod touch) plus $6.95 shipping, subject to local tax. Apple disposes of your battery in an environmentally friendly manner.
Have a nive day.

Emacs or xemacs for python[Solved]

I have decided to learn emacs, so I want to know which one should I install for python coding. And if the choice is xemacs the which addetional package should i install xemacs-sumo or xemacs-all-packages.
Last edited by jaideep_jdof (2009-09-25 06:09:47)

There are /two/ python plugins. On "official" emacs-plugin (bundled with Emacs) and one distributed by Python. They cannot be merge since whoever wrote the Python-Python mode didn't want to publish it under GPL or something like that (there is a long thread about it somewhere on usenet).
To summarize:
pyhton.el is included in emacs 23.
python-mode.el can be obtained from:
https://launchpad.net/python-mode
Or you could install emacs-python-mode from [community]
--Rasmus

TS1425 Is my nano dead?

I have the 4th gen nano and none of the buttons are working. I tried the troubleshooting techniques that apple offered and they haven't worked. I have done the factory reset also. Is there anything else I could try?

Sounds dead to me
You can take it to Apple and ask them to confirm that fact
Allan

Could my emac be dead

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