Cpu and chipset cooling,recommendations?

Trying to figure out what the best HS is for a 3400 on the K8N and chipset cooler. Stock HS running about 35-41 sys temp and 40-51 cpu (Idle/load). sitting at 41 sys and 45cpu right now, weird.... Its all in a coolermaster "stacker?" case. Good airflow (1x120, 2x80 front and 1x80 side intake, 1x120, 3x80 out...) Going to add the "crossblower" fan as soon as I can find it in stock. Had thoughht about the coolermaster hyper 6 but its huge, would have to tie it off to the psu plate or something to keep it from shifting I think
I was looking at the ZALMAN CNPS7000A-AlCu
http://www.newegg.com/app/viewProductDesc.asp?description=35-118-108&catalog=23&manufactory=BROWSE
I like the idea of quiet but summer is coming up and temps rise.... I also was thinking of running a duct from an 80 on the back or side to the HS fan as in intake and I dont think you can do it with the zalman. Any ideas? Not looking for a 92mm tornado setup, have to please the wife...
the chipset cooler gets me, have never bought one. Would like to be able to get one with a fan and plug into the board. Any thoughts on which one will work best?

Check some of the signatures here on the nVidia Athlon64 section of the Forum. That will give you a good idea of the Heatsink/fan combinations that are used!
I think the stock HSF is O.K., and I personally use the Zalman 7000AlCu....but there are other good ones!
P.S. while playing around yesterday....I opened the case up and put an additional fan on the exposed areas and it definitely dropped my temps about 8 deg. I'm thinking of adding a side case fan to help ventilation. I've got the Lian-Li PC-65 black aluminum case.

Similar Messages

Neo4 Plat CPU and VGA cooling

Just wanted to get a few opinions on good and quiet cooling for my CPU and Vid card.
Neo4 Plat board; AMD Athlon 64 3500+ CPU
GeForce 6800 Ultra
I've read a lot of reviews and it seems that Zalman is the quietest way to go.
VF700-AlCu for Vid card
and
CNPS7000-AlCu for CPU
Is anyone using this setup, can you post your opinions?
Other recommendations?
Thanks.

Agree with that GPU cooler
I used to have a Arctic silencer, but the fan is only balanced @100% (I tested 3), therfore to noisy 4 my taste. I put the Zalman on the NBfan connector, and the NB fan on a handy 5v connector that came with the Zalman.
This way corecenter manages the fan speed, which is handy cus the Zalman also blows over the HTT hub hsf 8)
Best cooler 4 ur board is the thermalright XP90, according to this list:
http://www.overclockers.com/articles373/p4sum.asp
Get a Vantec Stealth or Panaflo fan to mount on it. @stock u should be able to keep it round 1000rpm.

CPU and NB cooling queries...

Hello to all...
I'm wondering if anyone has removed the MSI lightshow heatsink and fan combo from the northbridge chip and put on something else, say like the Zalman NB coolers? I was thinking of the ZM-NB47J cooler but as the mobo has those slots in the board for the hooks rather then holes for punch throughs, i wasn't sure if anyone had got it to work.
i was thinking that the crossbar from the stock heatsink and fan might be able to work with the Zalman, but wanted to check with other users first.
As for CPU coolers, i just changed from my Antec Sonata case to a Overture and now my Zalman 6500 cpu heatsink and fan won't work as the fan mounts to the PCI rail and there's not enough height in the case for that. I figure i'll try a 7000 series...but there seem to be mixed answers on whether or not it will fit properly as the socket isn't centered within the mounting brackets. Any help there would be appriciated.
Your thoughts, comments, ideas are appriciated.
Thanks.
G.

Quote
Originally posted by Upstart
So i take it you're happy with the combo of the Zalman 7000, heatpipe on your vid card and the swiftec NB heatsink? I think i might follow suit.
Yeah, that combo works well for me. I haven't tried many other cooling options, so there may be better options out there. There's a new video card heatsink similar to the Zalman with two heatpipes and a Swiftech CPU heatsink with heatpipes. If I had to do it over again, I'd give those a try.
If your goal is low noise (like mine), you can't beat the undisputed champion of low-noise CPU heatsinks - the beautiful Heatlane Zen. I used this heatsink in another PC and it performs quite well. With a case that moves enough air, the Heatlane Zen is worth a try.

Cooling gpu, cpu and viedo question!!

hi guys.. i have been really concern about the temps in my pc and sometime corecenter tkae me out of a game becouse of the temps.. so i descided to get ths
GPU: Vantec Iceberq Solid Copper VGA and Chipset Cooler - 10.95$
Memory: Vantec Iceberq DDR Copper Memory Cooler - 8.95$ x2
Video: Arctic Cooling ATI Silencer 4 (R420, X800) - 27.50$
CPU: i dont know wich one to get buecouse i dont know wich one is better and wich one will fit in my system any recommendations?? something aroud 50$ or less but i need this urgently
Ok,, what do you think?? will all this fit?? the vantec chipset cooler with the arctic silencer??? is tehre a better chipset cooler???
Which cooler should i buy for my cpu?? somethng taht fits but really get that cpu cooler.. This ones in the follow list are the ones that i cna get
Thermaltake xp-90 - 38.99$
Thermaltake xp-120 - 49.99$
Cooler Master Hyper 6 - 48.95$
MCX6400-V - 54.95$
Thermaltake Extreme Venus 12 - 39.95$
Thermaltake PIPE101 3 in 1 - 48.95$
Thermaltake Silent Tower Universal Heatpipe Cooler - 49.95$
Zalman CNPS7000A-AlCu - 38.50$
Zalman CNPS7000A-Cu - 48.50$
in casethat the heatsink come without fan.. wich one should i get???
My system is
AMD 3400 Clawhammer CG - 2200 Mhz Stock
MSI Nforce 3 250GB K8N Neo Platinium Edition - Bios 1.55 - 201FSBx11M
2x512 Corsair Value Select - 1T 2.5,3,3,6
Ati X800XT Platinium Edition - 520,560 stock - Catalyst BETA 4.10
2x80GB Western Digital 7200RPM
Lite-On 52x24x52
A4Tech 480 Watts
tks for all the comments and suggestions

I'd go with one of these
Zalman CNPS7000A-AlCu - 38.50$
Zalman CNPS7000A-Cu - 48.50$
Stay in the high 30's with the pure copper one. Best HSF out. I love mine.

CPU and GPU slow down after system upgrade

Ok, I can't find anything similar to the question I have...but this forum goes on forever
As my system specs appear below, my machine was running quite comfortably a week ago, with same setup...minus the acrylic case and second 120GB hard drive.
At that stage I had "nomal" benchmarking scores 3dmark03 - 5850, Aquamark3 41.000, PC mark 2002 - cpu7020 mem8438 hdd1050.
Life was good and I loved my system
Then I decided it would be cool to upgrade to an acrylic case (which has better cooling with 3 fans) and a second 120 GB HDD to make a striped raid array.
My first concern was the raid Array. I was carefull to buy the exact same seagate hard drive, size etc. the original was only a month old anyway. The second was to use the intel southbridge chip for SATA RAID or the Promise controller? After researching these forums I decided to go with the Intel as it has more possible bandwidth and doesn't sit on the PCI bus.
I got the new case and wearing those stupid white gloves, proceeded to move the components over and trash my "old" metal case.
The windows NTFS format (full) flew by in 30 seconds and I was really impressed.
Once windows xp and all it's drivers and updates were installed, incl sound and graphics etc. I did a 3Dmark 2001 test before upgrading to Dx9...what a bad mark! 3Dmark2001SE - 9950 (terrible for this system).
I thought it was a DX problem...so I installed Dx9
Then opened that corecenter program (the old one, the one that doesn't crash...)
and my CPU was about 5c hotter than usual, it was running at 40-42c (I have standard intel cooling fan). It went up to 55 at times when running PC mark 2002.
This didn't concern me too much a the system was stable at 32-34c and the northbridge read 60c (but we all know that's not true , more like 35ish.
My PC mark 2002 is now cpu4200 - mem4800 - hdd1800
(at least the HDD improved!) LOL
I ran Aquamark3 next...29,900 (ouch!)
Previously my CPU was 8,700 and GPU was 5300
now the CPU read 4400 and the GPU 4600
I don't really notice the speed loss when working, but games and benchmarks tell a different story.
So, My question: What has happened? Why is my CPU power cut in half? and the graphics card slightly slower? The memory speed stayed the same and the HDD speed improved....not a worthwhile upgrade IMO
What went wrong?
Here are my theories.
1) The CPU and system case is getting too hot
Does the CPU "throttle" when it overheats? this could be the reason.
Also both HDD get really hot and the fan in front blows air over them, this hot air could be going over the CPU or GPU. Maybe get 2 HDD coolers?
should I buy a better CPU cooler like the Thermaltake spark7+ ?
2) The PSU does not have enough watts
I couldn't find traces of voltage lack or spikes...but it could still be a problem
3) The RAID0 array is a strain on the CPU and chipset
I'm not sure about this.
My appologies for the lengthy thread, but I wanted to be sure that anyone trying to figure this out had as much info as possible
Thanks if u can help me figure this out.

Quote
Originally posted by Reaver
When I originally installed the intel p4 cooler, I used artic silver ceramique paste...and the CPU temp operates at 36-38c with no load.
Perhaps I should upgrade the overall cooling. Get a Thermaltake copper fan and two HDD coolers.
Well, your temps sound allright, no need to worry them, if they really operate at that level.
Quote
The solution to set the FSB to 201Mhz sounds good. But do I set this in the BIOS or with Corecenter in windoze?
Propably meant to adust your FSB at BIOS, at least that is what I would suggest.
Quote
I will try to re-install the VGA drivers because something strange DID happen when I first installed them. I started with the hercules driver CD, this installed CAT 3.2 drivers. I then upgraded to CAT 3.7 and before it completed I got an error window (send, dont send).
Remove drivers AND ATI control panel first, and then re-install. Use drivers from ATI site, and rather Catalyst 3.7. I Have had problems with 3.8 Catalysts.
Quote
Still wouldn't explain why the CPU seems so crippled. I have managed to get a "normal cpu score of 7000+ in PCmark2002 by shutting down, restarting later and killing every process except explorer.
Do you have any processes that seem to eat more juice thant hey should? Arrange your processes by CPU usage and see if there is something strange.
Quote
If this cant be fixed I will reinstall over the weekend. Does anyone know of the RAID0 array on the southbridge causing a system slowdown?
I'm using Intel RAID and it works perfectly, no extra CPU usage is shown and it's pleasantly fast!
And Install latest Intel INF updates and Application Accelerator from Intel site. That's what I'm using, and works fine.

Latest and greatest chipset cooler?

I'm having big problems lately keeping my chip and northbridge cool. I have a stock system (no overclocking) but it still seems to run a bit high in the temp department (51-55c). What fan/heatsink would you guys recommend for my chipset. Thanks.

https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?threadid=31580&sid=
ive posted quite a few in there
http://www.thermaltake.com/products/chipset/crystalOrb.htm
is whats on mine using some thermal epoxy
looks interesting though

K9A2 CF Chipset and Mosfet cooling

Decided to start my own thread to track my attempt to improve the chipset and mosfet cooling on my MB.
Can't post pics here, so see XS thread @ http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=172579
Summary:
1: will use Microcool Mosfet Heatsinks on the mosfets (close to rear exhaust 120mm fan)
2: replace NB (MSI) heatsink with Zalman NB47 (big blue) (80mm fan blowing over it)
3: replace SB (MSI) heatsink with Zalman NB32 (small gold) (bottom mounted radiator with 2x120mm fans blows up onto it).
PS - I was amazed at how small the 790X and SB600 chips are (under big but flimsy heatsinks) and the contact (thermal pads) were not that good.
Did also consider using my (old) Polarflo TT Chipset waterblock on NB (which will fit with a bit of modding as it is so close to PCIe slot) but then tubing between CPU-NB-GPU would be really tight.
Any ideas would be most welcome as I am building it up this week/weekend.

Attached to plasic? Won't do much good.
Don't you understand that if manufacturers wanted cooling that they would supply it with a heat-conducting surface.....
Mostfets, Rams etc....they don't have such....so sticking a heatsink to it does nothing.
Plastic, Ceramic etc are heat isolating materials....and you try to cool that?

K8N Neo2 Chipset cooling and 1.8 BIOS/temps issue

Hi, Not really a problem thread, more some resolutions I want to share (didn't have much luck finding these answers so thought this might help someone...)
First - I've replaced my chipset cooler with the Vantec CCB-A1C (Copper). I think mine is a fairly late revision board (though I forgot to record/photograph the chip while it was bare ) but the stock HS had the usual rubbish tiny spot of gunk slightly off centre. Gave it a nice (thin but even) layer of AS5 before fitting the Vantec and quite happy with the results: The Vantec is actually considerably louder than the stock fan but by using Speedfan to throttle it back to 50% it becomes almost silent and the chipset temp hardly rises above 26C now (32C idle rising to 40+ under load previously).
And on the temps issue - I flashed the official 1.8 BIOS a little while ago and was disturbed to see my CPU temp go from high 30s to around 19C! There was no way that could have been correct (at least 10 degrees lower than ambient? I'm running an XP-90 but it's not magic!).
So I've been looking for news on these 1.9 bioses and popped in here http://www.lejabeach.com/MSIK8N/k8nneo2.html and found the 1.8F bios. Have flashed and now my CPU is reporting 26C which is at least a bit more like it! My system temp is stable at ~38C, but I have no idea of the location of that sensor so there could be other factors keeping that one high.
One question - does anyone have a definitive list of settings/temp offsets etc for Speedfan? And maybe some diagrams showing sensor locations? /hopeful
Apologies if any of this is old news of course!
My Specs:
Antec TrueBlue 480W
A64 3500+ Winchester w/XP-90
K8N Neo2 Platinum
1GB Corsair TwinX-XL
Club3d 6800GT w/Arctic NV5 rev2
Twin Maxtor 160GB SATA Raid 1
Creative Audigy 2

are you looking at your bios or are you using something like motherboard monitor?
oh yeah.. btw.. the case temp thermometer is top left... i discovered this with a 120mm fan pushing air over places on the motherboard

MSI Pro-E Chipset Cooling (Need Some Major Clarification Here Before I Begin)

Hey guys, about to bring up a very well known issue here, which brought about many 'heated' debates, no pun intended :P I know there has been many threads on this issue for nearly 2 years now, and well, i did tons of reading on the subject, starting with this classic thread here: https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=126885.0 and various others. I'll try and keep this as short as i can and get right to the point. I know what needs to be done, and the method i will be going with (though i am still debating with some options on the final decision), so i wont even bother going into all of that and save myself and you guys some time here. I am quite certain that HU16E has seen more than enough of these threads, and that every time he sees one, he probably gets a brain ache (sorry man )
But basically, i want to remove the stock heatsink on my X58 Pro-E mobo, and replace BOTH the NB and SB heatsinks. This is something very simple to do, take maybe no more than half hour to get it all removed, put the new TIM on, reseat it, etc, and i am all done. The only problem is having to gut the system and put everything back, which takes even longer to do and is something i am not looking forward to doing, but i am just not comfy with an idle temp of 78c-80c, so i want to take care of all this asap. Yes, i know that is under Intels specs, and yes, it IS working, but i haven't even bothered to play any games on this new system yet, because i know if i was to fire up a power hungry game, that the temps would be well over 90c, and that is just NOT GOOD.
What i want to be sure of, and the main question here, is do any of you know, FOR CERTAIN, which heatsink will fit this mobo without any blood, sweat, tears, tedious modding and cussing up a storm and throwing temper tantrums? Or even worse, getting the heatsink and having it not fit at all? That is something i want to avoid, as it just wastes more time having to send it back, look for another and just creates more hassle. If i do decide to actually hacksaw the heatpipe that links the stock NB/SB together, well at that point, there is no going back, and when i go to put the new heatsinks on and they wind up not fitting, i am basically screwed and wont be able to use the pc for days until finding the right one, so again, i want to avoid all of that.
In that thread i linked to above, he mentions he used that Thermalright NB heatsink, but the problem here, is that he was using the Eclipse mobo, which is not the one i have. I seen some others in that thread saying that they had the PRO-E, but never went into enough detail that they used that same heatsink. It seems like it would fit ok, but 'seems' isn't good enough, and i need to be certain it would. Looking in the system right now, i can lower the gfx card to PCI-E slot 2, to make even more room, so shouldn't be a problem i would think.
But then i came across this thread, and found it quite interesting: https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=129044.0
Now this person used that Thermaltake Spirit 2 NB cooler, but it seems Thermaltake yanked that off the market, because the link to newegg in the thread, now shows it OUT OF STOCK/DEACTIVATED. Also if you go here:
http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/Product.aspx?S=1231&ID=1901 and click the pic of the old Spirit 2, it then leads you here: http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/Product.aspx?S=1231&ID=1901 , so they obviously recalled the other one for whatever reason. I am guessing because that one was copper, and this one is aluminum and also smaller and virtually do the same job as the other. This one seems really nice and would definitely be the one i would like to go with, since it has a 40mm fan on it all in one, unlike the Thermalright, which doesn't come with a fan (but can use an 80mn fan as well with the mounting contents it comes with). Based on what i have been reading about this issue, if i reseat everything properly, use AS5 and make sure the fans are blowing properly, this Thermaltake heatsink should have virtually the same effect as the Thermalright would. Of course, this leaves the SB completely exposed, which leads to me part 2 of this person's post. He linked to this NB/SB cooler, which is just about the same size as the stock SB cooler, and he 'claims' it fits just fine:
http://www.xoxide.com/enzotech-cnb-s1l.html
There is also another model by the same company, which has a small fan on it too:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835708006
The first one would definitely fit, at least where the gfx card is concerned, albeit, barely. Not sure if the one with the fan would, but then again, based on all that i've read so far, that seems like overkill, since the SB doesn't get hot at all, only lukewarm at this point, and a decent heatsink is all that is really needed. However, i say this person 'claimed' it fit, 'supposedly', because he never posted pics when asked about it, and then disappeared from his own thread shortly after. And what spoiled the whole read for me, was another person posting this:
"The enzotech low profile heatsink will not fit on the south bridge because the hole to hole diameter is too large for it to match up against the mounting holes of the south bridge on the x58 boards.
The Enzotech CNB-S1L has 2 possible hole-hole diameters: 54.6 mm and 59mm. However, the mounting holes on the mobo are only 49mm apart. So the Enzotech heatsink designed for the northbridge will not fit on the south bridge.
If you somehow managed to make it fit, please post pics."
So yea, now i can't be certain that heatsink would fit on the SB, and if this guy was telling the truth, if he did his own modding to force it to fit, or what. Yes, i can hacksaw the pipe off, and leave the stock SB heatsink there, but...i figure if i am going to replace one, i may as well replace the other while i am doing all of that. Like i said, i don't want to have to find out it doesn't upon installing it, because that is just unnecessary time being wasted.
And there you have it, guys. Now, i am no expert at all when it comes a lot of this stuff, as far as certain technical aspects go, but many posters here really know their stuff and from what i have read here and on other forums, i feel like a total noob sometimes lol. So all this boils down to, and what i really need to know, is will all the heatsinks that i have outlined here, fit this motherboard properly? I really need to take care of this asap, because this thing running at 78-80 all the time is really going to lower it's life span, and every second that it does, is just one less second of use. Maybe that is being a lil too dramatic, but still, i've seen so many get their temps down to the low 40s and 50s, so i know for sure this board DOES NOT need to be running that hot :-/
On another note, i noticed many saying they wanted to add nuts/washers or whatever, to give better stability and contact. Well, since as i am as bad as it gets with carpentry, measuring, etc, i have no damn idea which ones i would need. I once was asked to measure something long ago when i worked as a laborer for a carpenter and reported back, saying to him '2/3s'. The guy looked at me like i had two heads lmao. Fortunately, i can read a ruler/measuring tape much better now lol, but i'm still no Norm, from This Old House. I hear all this talk of 'spring mounts', 'push pins' 'mounting holes', 'screws', etc. Since i am unable to see the back of my mobo right now (only the CPU area from the other side of the case panel when removed), i have no idea if its using metal screws, or push pins, or what. I see the heatsinks i mentioned here, as well as many others, use these various methods, so im uncertain what would work on this board (if it needs plastic/nylon screws or metal ones). Now, i checked out this youtube vid of a guy showing how to remove my exact mobo and reseat it with new/better paste. It was quite informative. Just so you guys know, i have the older 'brown colored' Pro-E board. The one in the video looks to be the same color. However, i just purchased this board, along with the whole system less than 3 weeks ago, so i don't know how old this Pro-E may be.
Another important question about what this guy did in the vid too. You can fast-forward to where he takes it apart. Looks to me like they are metal screws, but again, im unsure if mine use those. The front of the heatsinks have two holes, those of which i can easily see, and have what looks to be a plastic washer or something on it. It looks 'greyish'. Now, A VERY IMPORTANT issue in this vid, is this guy removed the THERMAL PADDING on the heatsinks. I read here all over the place, that you are NOT SUPPOSED TO DO THAT, as to ensure that the heatsinks aren't touching any components on the board, the chipset itself. As you can see in the first couple comments, the guy says 'Yes, the existing pads were scraped off. It's important to remove the old thermal pads, otherwise you won't have any benefit & it may even be worse.' So yea. all that does is just confuse me more. Considering how gunked up, though, that the paste will be when removing it, i can only image that the stock pad on there is probably gonna be pretty nasty as well too, which is why he probably took it all off. But yea, wondering if you guys could clarify that for me, if that should be done or not. Seems many here were very firm that it should NEVER be removed.
I can honestly i never have had an issue with MSI until now, and they do put out quality products, but i hope in the future, that newer mobos would use better TIM and have a fan added on the NB or something. Other manufacturers do this, some don't, but they ALL should, so i am not just singling out MSI here. We live in an age where technology is very capricious and always progressing, and back in the day, well, PCs didn't require crazy amounts of fans, watercooling, etc. But with things putting out so much wattage these days, apps/games/movies requiring better hardware, which also needs more power and/or outputs a lot too, well you don't have to work for NASA to know that heat is going to be a problem, and the motherboard being an obvious vital component, should be adequately cooled just as well as everything else that needs it. I do love this board, and it does more than enough to suit my needs, i just wish it didn't run so dang hot That's the ONLY gripe i have about it.

Hey, HU16E, and others,
I just wanted to let you know that i finally broke down and attempted this procedure (after a lot of hesitation), and everything worked out perfectly as you said, WITHOUT having to buy some aftermarket chipset cooler. Maybe it was meant to be for me, because i learned a crap load of things in the process and in the end, it wasn't as hard or grueling as i thought (although 1 process was, which ill get to shortly lol).
Once i finally got everything gutted (well, just the stuff attached to the mobo), i then removed it, and hit a wall, because the screws that hold down the chipset heatsink, wouldnt fit any phillips head screw drivers had, so i had to stop, run out and buy a lil six pack of VERY small philips and flat heads. I had assumed during my extensive research on all of this, that those screws used the 6-32 size, which is pretty much the smallest i could find out there. Many pointed out the RC/Model Airplane hobby shops, but nothing i could find out where i live. Those 4 screws differ from everything else in the case. I thought they would be the M3 type screw (6-32), which on the wiki for pc-screws, had said they were commonly used on most mobos. But anyway, i got those off with the right screwdriver, and that was where the 'grueling' part came in.
The NB heatsink came off after 5 minutes of careful wiggling/rocking/twisting to the left and right. I never once PULLED UPWARD, until it was VERY LOOSE, in fear that i would crack the NB die, because if that happened, well, the mobo would basically have become nothing more than a good coffee cup stand). The SB took about 20 minutes since it was cemented on there pretty good. I had to use a wrench and lock both sides of it on there, and then again, just twisted to the left n right carefully, because my hands/fingers were too big to get a grip on the heatsink it uses. Finally, it came off, and i was good to go, but my goodness.....
...not to sound to harsh here, but man, that original paste it had was just terrible, HU16E. This Pro-E i have is the brownish colored one, and so, it had this pink, bubble gum stuff, that was VERY sticky and hard, and i can now see why these heating issues were taking place. Also, the HS itself wasnt as tight as when i finally put it all back. I used alcohol and qtip swab, and also your toothpick method of scraping from the outside, in, to form a clump, which worked well, but the thinner residue afterward was a real hassle to get off there, both on the HS and the NB die/SB surface. Used a butterknife on the HS, but only soft and non-metallic stuff on the NB die, and just kept wiping with alcohol and a microfiber pad for what felt like an eternity until it just basically dissolved and got that nice mirror finish. I used 4 of the 6-32 washers between the stock screw/spring/washer, and believe it or not, it fit very well. It's not loose, the screws head doesnt go through it at all, and once it was scerwed in nice n tight, there was no play at all, so it worked out really well. I mean, at most while it was loose, was probably just a micro millimeter of space while it was around the screws shaft, but again, once it was in there it was tight as can be. I used Arctic Cooling MX-4, since it one of the best out there and i liked the fact it was non-conductive. From what i have read about pastes, metallic-based compounds just arent necessary in this day and age anymore. Also replace the paste on the CPU cooler too.
So i fired up, and well...checked the bios temps, and there ya have it. Went from 82 degrees, down to 48! That definitely made it all worth it. Now i can finally do some gaming/hd content without having to worry about it going into the 90s. It hasnt even exceeded 60 on load, so all is well for sure Also have an antec spot fan set on medium and aimed right over the NB and added a 200mm fan on the top of case, acting as exhaust, so im sure that all plays a part too.
Honestly, though, i really hope MSI is NOT using that paste anymore, because it really is just....well.....ill just say it's BAD lol. It sure as hell would work awesome for some kind of adhesive or glue that is for sure lmao. Maybe MSI should hold onto to that stuff, and give the glue market some competition lol. But yea, as a thermal compound, umm...i just sure hope they switched to a good type of paste for all their future mobos, especially the z68s. I also don't believe that the NB/SB heatsink ever needed a combo type deal, via the heat pipe, as this just creates more tedium. Heck, i dont even think the SB even needs a HS on it, as it doesn't even give off much heat at all. Mine is barely lukewarm to the touch. Not to mention, when taking it off, the heat pipe tends 'move/bend' a bit, and this means the heatsinks on either side will not match up well, or be perfectly parallel when you seat them back on the board. I had to keep bending it gently and standing it on my table til all 4 pegs on the bottom would touch, this way i would know that it'd reseat properly. I hope in the future that MSI will scrap that whole linked HS set-up.
As i stated before, love the board, and the TIM issue was the only issue i had with it, and now since that is resolved, i have no gripes whatsoever. Down the line, ill probably get a z68 soon, and wouldn't mind at all going with MSI, but id like to be assured first that some changes were made to the chipset cooling, because even though this was all a good learning experience for me, it is not something i want to go through again lol.
But hey, thanks a bunch for all of your advice HU16E and other mods as well. I was going to go with that Thermalright HS, and your posts (past and present) convinced me otherwise and the temps are down to what others got them to WITH that same aftermarket heatsink, so you saved me 30USD

After market chipset cooler for NEO (PLAT)

o as im typing this im runing 44c CPU and 45c chipset dose any ond else have this prob one this borad and i dont what to wast money if the chipset cooler dont clear my 9800 card and HSF and ive got a Artec cooling After market cooler so it is realy close to the chipset cooler... so has anyone put an after market HSF on there chipset

I just posted this in the other Northbridge fan thread but I'll post it again:
Well I just recently built a new pc with an MSI K8N Neo Platinum and have been browsing these forums for awhile... I've also been looking into actively cooling the NB because from previous experience with my Xbox, Nvidia NB's run fairly hot... I was thinking about getting one of those Vantec coolers but I dont really like the hole thing where the fan is built into the heatsink (personally I don't think it is very efficient)... So I was trying to find some other ways to cool the chip and found that any 40mm fan will fit on the heatsink, but the stock gold heatsink was too tall and if I put a fan on it would interfere with my Radeon 9800Pro with an Arctic Silencer cooler... So I came across this:
http://www.compusa.com/products/product_info.asp?product_code=291975&pfp=srch1
The heatsink is shorter plus it comes with a 40mm fan so I think it would fit perfectly on the NB (I have one of these chipset coolers in my Xbox and am very pleased with it)... I think that combined with some Arctic Silver 5 will definately perform a lot better than the stock gold POS... I will be picking one of these up shortly at CompUSA and will let all you guys know how it goes along with some pictures... Hope this helps...
Here are some pics of the kit and of it placed on the NB in my Xbox:
As you can see the heatsink that comes with it is indeed a little shorter and should help those of you with larger video cards that have problems fitting an NB cooler... I also have an arctic silencer on my vid card and I'm almost 100% sure this would fit as I was able to fit my finger inbetween the card and the NB heatsink and the fan is about the same width as my finger...

Noise? Chipset cooler?

Hi..
I Got this serious problem that last week my MEGA 865 started being REALLY noisy.
In the start is though it was the cpu coolers, but when i checked today, it was the chipset cooler under the "metal" thing.
Is it possible to remove the metal thing where the card reader and hdd is hanging? But would that help maybe to clean the cooler if i could get into it?
The problem is that my fatty fingers is able to get all in there, so that would be a great help ^^

Hi, I had a similar problem with my chipset cooler on the 180 although my fan was just DOA . Anyhow, if the fan is the same on the 865 it is an ADDA fan. You can get a replacement in the CompUsa branded chipset cooler bundle at the store for $9.99 it is super silent and spins at the same RPM as the stock fan.
The downside is that you will have to "hardwire" or use an adapter off of your HD power plug to power the fan.
Be aware that there are two versions of the fan in the cooler bundle. One has a sticker on the top of the fan and that is the one that you want, the other is not an ADDA fan so I dont know what the noise will be like. The sticker is a teal color with white lettering on it.
Oh, this all assumes that you live in the U.S. and that you dont mind disassembling the HD cage to get to the cooler (easy work).

MSI KT8 Neo2 F board, upgraded cpu and used MSIs Live Update, now unstable BSODs

I've had this mobo for almost 2 yrs now with an AMD 3500+ cpu and recently upgraded that to the FX-55. To do that, it required using MSIs Live Update and needed newer chipset drivers. It has the latest bios according to Live Update.
It took a few attempts but finally booted w/o BSODs and has been running for over 1 week BUT is still not right. It's sometimes unstable and will crash (BSOD) just by starting up a browser. I had the bios settings at "optimized" and have tryed a few other changes but so far, I'm not gaining. Last night I couldn't keep it running more than a few minutes w/o it crashing.
I have the MSI manual for my board and plan to spend some more time playing with it tonight but might anyone here have any ideas? It's not running hot (reads 50C) and was stable before with the 3500+. I've tryed "Fail Safe" bios settings too but nothing's better that way either.
I'm hoping that someone here has a few ideas?
Perhaps related?
After initially running this with the new cpu, I'd see the "searching for MAC address" message and it'd hang there on boot. Someone told me that was because it was trying to do a network boot, selected in the boot sequence SO I've unselected that and that's when things got worse (oddly as it shouldn't IMO). One can select the 3+ boot devices (floppy, USB, CD-DVD rom, HDD) and it use to see the HDDs (2) before but now I'm not (only floppy and CD-DVD rom) and if I unselect the ethernet option (boot other devices), it fails to boot at all and says "insert floppy" as if I was installing Win98 way back when (running XP Pro btw). Something's definately not right with my bios selections.

Let's go back to basics here for a bit. Start by posting your complete specs in your signature like we do. Make sure that your PSU values are also in there.
Let's also look at some tests to help determine where the issue is. I would recommend Memtest86+, OCCT, Prime95, and 3DMarks as a great first series. Also get CPUz and lets see what it shows for CPU and Memory.
If we can get an idea where things begin to fall apart then maybe we can determine if this is driver, hardware or some other issue without having to make the flash happen first. The reason why I am avoiding the flash at this point is that if things are mostly working maybe there is some other cause than Bios. We know that some FX's work with 3.x and some that don't. So I would like to try a bit of checking before we dive into a flash that could cause more issues than it solves if we get this wrong. As things are mostly working now we can assume at least for the moment that maybe the flash is not needed. If we don't see anything during testing that sheds some light then maybe we go ahead with the flash.
That is if your willing to take some time to try and sort this out and maybe learn some stuff in the process. It is of course your call and we will respect whichever decission you make here.

KT4VL CPU and Memory problems

I have a KT4VL that I updated to BIOS version 1.60 with the liveupdate feature (I really like that by the way). Anyway, I have two problems with the board. I have a AMD 1700+ XP 1.47Ghz/266 CPU. The manual and your website says I should change the CPU FSB Clock under Frequency/Voltage control to 133 for that CPU. When I do, the system locks (corrupted a file and forced a reinstall of XP that was a pain). I've repeated that and when I change it back to 100Mhz, it doesn't lock. The web site says to change the CPU ratio to 11 with the 133 setting which I did but the system still locks/reboots suddenly. I even tried changing the Spread Spectrum setting from the 25% default to none but it still crashes.
The second issue is that I have a PC3200 DDR 256MB DIMM (Samsung
K4H560838D-TCC4) that is specifically listed in the manual as a recommended DIMM. However, if I put it as the only DIMM in the system, it doesn't POST or boot and gives 3 Long Beeps. The D bracket indicates that it's a memory problem. I exchanged the DIMM for the new one to make sure I just didn't get a bad one but it has the same behavior with the new one. When I put it in with a PC2700 DIMM I have, it doesn't boot or beep. It just sits there.
What BIOS settings do I need to put to support my CPU and memory correctly?

Bas,
Ok, I'll try 1.7. You think that will fix the memory problem?
The power supply is an AMD approved 350W power supply so I don't think that's it. I'll double check the cooling setup (it's a volcano so it oughta be good) but cooling could definitely be it.
The only thing I need you to verify for me is the BIOS settings...Will the AUTO setting work for the PC3200? Or do I need to specify it? And for the CPU, the FSB should be 133 and the ratio 11? Any other changes? Should I mess with the spread spectrum settings?
I guess I'd like to verify what my bios settings should be to support my CPU and memory.
Lastly, will I be able to use both my pc3200 and my pc2700 DIMM at the same time?
Thanks so much for your time and help.
-james

Passive chipset cooling on K8N Neo2 Platinum?

Hi,
I would like to hear from anyone with experience from replacing the active MSI HS on a MSI K8N Neo2 Platinum with a passive one, Zalman NB47J for example?
- Does the Zalman NB47J fit or is there another HS better suited?
- Are there problems with the VGA card since the AGP slot is so close?
- Heat problems. Would you recommend passive chipset cooling on K8N Neo2 Platinum?
I am not an overclocker but would like my system to be quiet.
Cheers
About to build:
Fortron PSU 350W FSP350-60PN
MSI K8N Neo2 Platinum
AMD64 Winchester 3000+
Thermalright XP-90
Powercolor 9800 PRO

Baskerville,
No problem mounting the Zalman NB47J
and no heatproblems for me so far ( with some good chassi airflow / ventilation )
The problem is the limited space between the cooler and the Graphic card.
I had to bend a couple of the zalman fins, to be able to mount my 6600GT card.
If not- the Grahpic card components hits the Zalman cooler.
It may work with some other passive cooler that´s lower then the zalman model.

Z97 Mpower max ac Chipset Cooling

My Msi Z97 Mpower Max AC MB has intergrated chipset cooling ports that I want to incorporate in to my H240x loop.My tubeing is 3/8 by 5/8 and I was thinking of putting quick dissconect compression fittings on or put a drain valve somewhare down by my R9-290 vid card that has a Komodo R9-LE water block .The drain valve is expecially needed if I use the chipset watercooling on the mpower max ac mb.Anyone have any suggestions or should I just forget about the mb chipset cooling into the loop.

1st thing is that is not the chipset that has the 3/8" barbs for liquid cooling, it's the CPU VRM (Voltage Regulator Module) that you are referring to in your picture. Since they are barb fittings I don't know how you would manage to put compression fittings on it.

Cpu and chipset cooling,recommendations?

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