CPU temp hits 200 deg F - does it need repair?

I still have Apple care for my iMac G5. What needs to be fixed? Is it a logic board replacement or what? I've already had my logic board replaced (a year ago) because of a video problem. Is 200F considered too hot? This morning when I woke up my machine was in sleep mode. I've heard that if the machine gets too hot it will go into sleep mode. BTW, I'm running Temperature Monitor to monitor the temps.
What do you suggest I do?
Thanks

Since I have the extended Apple Care, I have an appointment for Tuesday afternoon. They told me it was a known logic board problem. I guess I'll be getting a new logic board. Boy, the Apple Care sure had paid for itself. This will be the second logic board I got replaced. The first one was replaced a few months after I got the mac. I was having lock-ups when running colorful screen savers. Then a few months later, they came back to my house and replace the DVD drive. I'll never get another mac without the Apple Care.

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T60 CPU Temp hitting 90 C

Lately my T60 has been heating up really, really badly. After 40 minutes, the upper left hand portion of the laptop gets considerably hot. I downloaded Everest Home and it told me that the CPU was hitting over 90 C. The notebook actually shutoff once. I am going to try replacing the fan assembly. Any tips on where to get it/ how to do it/ etc?

I have a 2007-84U T60p thinkpad. It has had heat issues since i bought it over 2 years ago. been in the depot at least 5 times and had a tech sent to my house to diagnose. This is rhidiculous. When it over heats, the machine freezes or shuts down. When i try to turn it back on, it freezes at the MSFT splash screen, and is dim. After it has time to cool down it might start up. Accordign to tpfancontol, my machine is often showing numbers like :
CPU 91°C (0x78)
GPU 93°C (0x7b)
The other day i called Lenovo 3 times to get help. they made me run diags on the system for hours that didnt show much. I called them back after testing, made sure the tech had my phone number incase we got disconnected, and then after giving all my info to him, he got disconnected, and never called back. Such crap. I have 10 thinkpads and if this doesnt get resolved, i wont be buying anymore. Tired of spending 3,000 dollars on top machines and not getting taken care of. Hope someone reads this and contacts me.

Can P4N Diamond core-center allow auto shut down if cpu temp hits 70*C?

I read the Core-Center will allow temp-based warnings and shut down. Does that mean really it will shut itself down automatically if a tempo hits a certain level? this would be a great feature
thanks!

CoreCenter don't depend on it. Force shutdown PC is obsolete way, it cause you lose data, it's a idea. Forget about it. And forget about CoreCenter too. Let the Processor handle thermal itself.

How can I fix my flashing white screen? Does it need repair?

I left my ipod touch to charge and when I went to get it I clicked on the home button and the screen was white. I googled about this white screen and I kept hearing about this "white screen of death", and saw alot of videos. Well how my iPod touch looks, well its not exactly white but rather is somewhat white as if its flashing white. I can vaguely see the ipod icons, and can play pandora or other apps but I can't see a clear screen because of the flashing white screen. I was wondering if maybe it has to do with internal things I need to get fixed like the lcd, or the digitizer. Is there anything I can do, or do I ttake it in to get it fixed? I tried clicking the home button and the power button at the same time but yes the apple icon appears but also the flashing white comes out. I dont know what to do.
Here are some pictures
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m199/wattsup_14/CAM01297.jpg
Yes this iis how it looks when I reset it. http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m199/wattsup_14/CAM01298.jpg

Try:
- iOS: Not responding or does not turn on
- Also try DFU mode after try recovery mode
How to put iPod touch / iPhone into DFU mode « Karthik's scribblings
- If not successful and you can't fully turn the iOS device fully off, let the battery fully drain. After charging for an least an hour try the above again.
- If still not successful that usually indicates a hardware problem and an appointment at the Genius Bar of an Apple store is in order.
Apple Retail Store - Genius Bar

Does it need repair?

My iPod doesn't sync to itunes. During a sync everything freezes at some point. Could be the second song, could be the 300th song. It just stops. Then I have to disconnect and restart the ipod. When I try reconnecting to iPod I have to restore it and start all over. And then it freezes during the sync. I also cannot eject the ipod. I have to unplug it so iTnes will unlock and then I have to restart the ipod. What else can I try? Is this repairable? Or will I be told it will cost the same as buying a new one? It's an original ipod, 20 gb drive.

Since I have the extended Apple Care, I have an appointment for Tuesday afternoon. They told me it was a known logic board problem. I guess I'll be getting a new logic board. Boy, the Apple Care sure had paid for itself. This will be the second logic board I got replaced. The first one was replaced a few months after I got the mac. I was having lock-ups when running colorful screen savers. Then a few months later, they came back to my house and replace the DVD drive. I'll never get another mac without the Apple Care.

AGP Aperture size??? and CPU temp???

1. i have changed the Aperture size to 128Mb (instead of 64) and every time i enter a game, after at least 20 minutes (sometimes less) it kicks me out back to windows.
when i played generals it told me that i might have had a hardware malfunction... which is weird cause i have a new computer.
when i returned the aperture size back to 64, it worked fine, only slower... any ideas...?
2. my CPU reached some interesting tempretures, and i have a lot of airflow... the question is this, when i'm not running any porgram (IDLE time) my cpu sits at around 43 degrees, when i do run stuff (like games, or graphic progs) my CPU rises up to 58, and i even reached 62 once...
is this logical? shouldn't P4 CPU's be cooler then AMD's? how can i force a change on the CPU cooler to work faster (when i change it through Core center the max i get is 4500rpm), can i make it higher?
thanx in advance, EagleIL.

OK,
I have just finished assembling my 865PE monster. I must say, MSI is consistent, the only issue I have seen with them is 2 things:
1. They will never learn to measure CPU temperature correctly.
2. Bios updates never seem to improve things much, or can be a disaster.
Other than that, I checked my temps, and with a side fan and a rear fan and a blower (pci slot turbo blower) out, I had 26-28 deg C at startup (cold iron). My CPU temp was 48 deg C which is physically impossible, and the reported case temp was 38 deg C in the bios but 28 deg c on my independent temp system.
I rearranged everything with side out and reversed one of the rears to blow in, and I have a steady 22-23 deg c after 6 hours. The CPU still reads 48 deg c and climbes to 50-52 under load. The reported case temp is still 38 deg c and climbs 1-2 deg. So I do not believe the temp readings.
I also do not believe all the hogwash about the CPU coolers. The stock Intel cooler has always worked fine for me, and I remember a report that said it was one of the best, in a test against a bunch of them a year or so back. There is good reason for this (I work for Intel, so I know it is not made up): They package the cooler with thier retail chips and also provide them to OEMs. They have to take all the measures possible to ensure the CPU survives the 3 year warranty and the only thing (99%) that will kill a CPU is heat. The heat removal rate of the stock heat sink is sufficient to overcome even the extra heat from OC'ing for the most part, as they test it for that. I believe the rates are posted on the website.
I would say the AGP issue is possibly related to heat effecting the memory on your agp card, or a software issue with the AGP drivers themselves. I would reccomen you revert to another card and try the same scenario if you can. There may be issues using the 128 setting itself.
Good luck. I thought this board would be a nightmare, but it has performed flawlessly with XP Pro, 2.6C, 512 meg ram (CL3!!!)(Elixer), and a Radeon 9000 Pro. I loaded Office XP Pro/Frontpage/Adobe and ran all three with no issues at the same time.
Sometimes its like ::

K8N Neo2 Plat cpu temp seems to be screw up...

Whenever I cold boot my system and when I went into the bios, my cpu temp will be like 40c while system at 28c then slowly raised to 34c which is reasonable. But cpu temp always around 40-42c not matter if I'm overclocking or not. I mean the cpu temp should be lower when cold boot and slowly raise depends on the room temperature right?
Sometimes it's screwed like cpu temp will reach up to 47c in bios and in windows when idle and when i reboot it's back to 40-42c using nvidia monitor and speedfan for readings.
Let's say when not overclocking, i set to auto for the vcore and it will shown as 1.35v. Even at 250HTT or more at 1.5v, in bios or windows, it's showing at 39-41c except for the load temp which i only see a difference.
It's just strange that cold boot cpu temp hit at 40-42c instantly and hardly moves even when vcore is at 1.5v in bios or in windows. Either that or it went up to 47c when idle sometimes but after a reboot, it went back to 40-42c again. I'm really confused why it's like this btw me using the stock cooler.

Quote from: MurdoK on 29-April-05, 15:07:37
You took it right ! Is my english so bad...?? Bios ver. 1.5 shows correct readings after cold boot (yes when you are in windows and boot another time)
This 1.8 BIOS is not a Beta anymore. MSI will release this BIOS after their Holidays, many people in a german Forum are using it, without any problems!!
You should give it a try .... if you are experienced !!
http://www.lejabeach.com/MSIK8N/k8nneo2.html
Greetz
Thanks MurdoK
I just flashed to bios v1.8 and the high temp of 40c when boot is fix
Now for cold boot, it's showing at 35-36c but the auto boot when psu switch is turned on showing blank screen with red/orange led light is not fix yet

Bios reports 62 deg C cpu temp on XP2600/KT4A-V MB

Motherboard Monitor reports the same temp within a few degrees but the cpu doesn't seem very hot at all. This is happening on two similiar systems: same mb and cpu, 350W Antec power supply, 1 hard drive, 1 cd drive, and a 64mb GForce MX4000 AGP video card, 512mb memory.

1. HSF is installed correctly
2. I'm using a thin layer of Artic Silver.
3. One system has 2 sticks of Kingston 512mb and the other one has one stick of Micron 256mb.
But as I said in my original post, the cpus don't seem hot at all. I have another system with an MSI K7N2 Delta-ILSR mb/XP3000. The CPU temp on the XP3000 is 46 deg C and it is noticeably warmer in that I can feel significantly hotter air coming off the CPU. So I'm wondering if MSI is reporting higher temp readings on the KT4A-V mbs because maybe the sensor is on the dioide and not the socket.

Please Help New Mobo CPU Temp 255 Deg Celcius

Hi, I just bought Big Bang Marshall with all the new computer part yesterday, after i finish installing everything then i started the computer, went to BIOS was planning to choose my boot driver, then i went to check the cpu temp. the cpu is 255 degress at 4.6mhz speed which i have not configure anything yet not even overclock yet. but then i put my hand and feel the temp in the cpu cooler it was warm not hot at all. but i worried that the 255 deg is real and might blow everythign so i turn off. thats the only time i turn it on, then today i phone the shop and the shop didnt know anything they never experience 255 deg. so i need to wait till monday until msi customer service open. but i got whole day today, i am wondering if people can help so i might able to fix the issue. should i continue and install the windows or should i wait till msi open again? thank alot
my part is:
mobo: Big Bang Marshall (B3 rev)
procesor: i7 2600k
cpu cooler: H70 Corsair
CPu thermal paste: Gelid
Video card: MSI GTX580 Lightning x2 Sli
PSU: Corsair AX1200
Ram: Gskill Ripjaws X 2133mhz 4x4gb
os: windows 7 ultimate

Quote from: HU16E on 05-June-11, 14:38:12
As long as the RAM defaults properly to 1333 like it is supposed to, all should be fine with having 2133's installed. RAM speed is kind of a sore subject with the Sandy Bridge platform. Not much is gained by 2133 in performance, but if you wish to persue more speed, please open a thread in the OC, Undervolt, & Mod Section of the forum.
thankss alott
Quote from: Bernhard on 05-June-11, 14:37:35
If you are not into extreme overclocking, then indeed a JEDEC standard 1333 set is all thats needed. If yours defaults to 1333 though and is stable, then you should be fine.
thankss alott

Does bios 1.08 really fix the CPU temp?

I just plopped in a shiny new 3700+, and I noticed that unlike my old 3200+, my temps now don't read correctly. My old 3200+ seemed to read accurately @39c. Now with my new 3700+ it reads 63c. I have confirmed that it is not running anywhere near that high, and seems very close to my old 3200+.
I'm presently running bios 1.06 and everything runs great. On previous motherboards I've had, new bios'es come out claiming to fix CPU temp readings, but my experance has always been that I've not seen the fix claimed after flashing.
Has anyone running a 3700+ flashed to bios 1.08 actually seen the temp reading fixed? I can't understand why my 3200+ reads right on but yet my 3700+ is so far off.
Thanks

Umm..ok, guess I will just hang with 1.06
I've always been of the opinion, that if your attempting to fix something, then flash. If a new flash doesn't fix the thing I'm trying to fix, then I skip it.
Thanks for the feedback.

How do I deal with CPU Temp Issues?

my newly built pc just wanted to shut down b/c the temp hit 80C. I opened it up and the heatsink, cpu, fan everything is not very hot. One spot (don't know technical terms for each piece yet) is a bit warm, but mostly it is cool.
I know this is an ongoing isue with the BIOS. Is this the only way to fix? Does the most recent really fix this? This is my first built pc and it took me a few days to get everything working. I don't want to mess with the BIOS Flash already as I have never done one. Do I just ignore it as long as everything feels cool or should I update the BIOS? Just want to get a feel for what others are experiencing.
The thermaltake fan is set to auto. Perhaps I should just set it too always be on high, which sounds like a little rocket ship and drowns out the TV in my bedroom.
One last REAL STUPID question. Since the temp readings aren't accurate, what exactly is too hot to the touch? Are we talking boiling water hot, where I pull my hand back? Right now the heatsink is warm, but not so hot that I can't keep my fingers holding it.

the case is the Raidmax 668Scorpio. There is one fan at the top, two in front, two in back and one on the plastic door. I think the front back can blow air in or out.
The heatsink is the Thermaltake Venus 12. I set it to blow automatically. It was spinning about 4200rpm when the temp hit 80C. I did apply compound just on the cpu so it does not cover the heatsink fully, but only on the piece that touches the cpu.
I just turned on the pc after shutting down a few hours ago. I went right into BIOS and the CPU starts at 66C. It is cold to the touch, xso no way its 154F.
This doesn't leave me much room to go to 80C and it's not even loaded up windows yet. While I'm typing this on my Dell, I see it has just hity 69C, while just sitting on the BIOS screen.

How to reduce from 5º to 8ºC CPU Temp on your MSI K7N2 Delta!

I've installed this tweak last week and it is working very stable since then. It decreased my Idle CPU Temp from 42º to 36º and Overload from 54º to 48º:
Just go: http://forums.pcper.com/showindex.php?t=280137
AMD ATHLON XP 2600+ 12.5x333mhz 1.65V ~OC 11.5x400mhz 1.55V
Thermaltake Volcano 9
MSI K7N2 Delta L
MSI GF4 4200-8X graphics Card
160GB Maxtor HDD 7200rpm
768MB Samsung DDR3200
LG 48x24x48x/16x CDROM/DVD Reader
Dual Fan 450W Troni Power Suppy

It seems that the link to the tweak is broken, I've found another one:
http://ftp://ftp.vector.co.jp/pack/win95/hardware/other/wpcre14.exe
This is what the article say:
Just tried it for the first time..It works GREAT
My idle temps are now 26c, down from 34c. That's 8C. I can have Winamp, IE and messenger running and CPU temps don't get by 29c. Once i fire up, SETI though...I get back my regular Load temps at 39c.
Some of you probably know about it, already....here's for thousand others that don't.
This tweak can drop your idle CPU temps down as much as 8c, maybe more...depending on your system.
First thing you need to do is download WPCRSET & WPCREDIT.
They're both in this zip.
- Extract to a directory.
- Run "INSTDD.EXE". Click Install. When done, you will be prompted for restart. Hit Yes! -
- Then go back to the folder with extracted files, and open "WPCREDIT.EXE"
- A ms-dos like window will pop-up. Move the blinking block (with arrow keys or your mouse pointer) until it says Offset 6F at the buttom. Now, click on the two digit number where it says "HEX", and change it to 1F (The Hex for Offset 6F would have previously been 9F, 8F or something else). Hit Set.
Your idle temps should now start falling.
You would have to do this hack/tweak everytime you rebooted your computer if it wasn't for WPCRSET.
- Go to directory and run "WPCRSET.EXE"
- Look at the top of the window: Enable select "Start" and make sure Device is on "enable"
- Then click Add. Enter 6F for the register, and 1F for the data
- Click Ok and you'll be prompted to restart.
Once, you rebooted, open WCREDIT again and see if the 6F register is still on 1F. If it is, then that's it..You're all done.
Here's a Screenie of how it should be:
This only brings your idle temps down, and not your full load temps
It should work for all nforce2s, and use at your own risk
Check your nf7-s for CPU Disconnect. Most other nforce2 motherboards do not have this feature in the bios...so this tweak might prove useful.
READ THE WHOLE THREAD BEFORE TRYING THIS!
If you run a Distributed Computing project...then obviously this would be of no use to you
Quote:
Originally posted by Abducted on 12-16-2003 at 03:43 PM
It activates the C1 (and maybe the C2) function Athlon XP CPU's support. Most mainboard brands have this feature as an option in the bios you can enable and disable. I just found out that EPoX doesn't have that feature. So what you're doing is just using a direct reg tweak to activate it. It's not like you're forcing anything, the Athlon XP chips are made to support this feature so it shouldn't do any damage.
When the CPU is idle the mainboard will send a command to the CPU that will cause a part of the CPU to be deactivated (and therefore not produce any heat). That's why this tweak only works on the idle temp and doesn't change anything on the load temp. Ofcourse as soon as the CPU power is needed the deactivated part will become active again, so it should have any influence on the performance of the CPU.
Strangely, my full load temp has decreased 6º C degrees too.

It ALL works (mostly)!!! CPU Temp Monitor??

Just finished assembling my new system and loading it up this weekend, and amazingly, it works. Even with CL3 ram it runs much faster than a P4 1.8A on SiS 645/DDR333 board I had. I am amazed at how big a difference there is in the way XP Pro loads and retrieves data and how smooth it sets up. I did not have to load ANY drivers! A huge step forward from 98SE.
The only issue appears to be that the temperature monitor is out to lunch (So was my last board the SiS645 one, it did the exact same thing) for both CPU and Case. I installed a seperate case system to monitor temp and it gives me 22 deg C after I rearranged the airflow from the fans. I am thinking of drilling out the stock heatsink and inserting one of these temp monitors to real time monitor the CPU.
Has anyone come up with a good way to really monitor CPU temps with this board??

Hey,
I loaded up MBM (after I figured out what it was and where to find it). It seems pretty good: The case reads 37 deg C (my independent sensor reads 27 deg and bios says 47) and CPU reads 47 deg (bios says 57).
The real questions is : My -12 volts reads -6, and I have played with the settings to find the right sensor, and every sensor I select changes all the voltage readings. Is there a specific selection for readings that sets this up right?
Also, I found a Lian-Li temp sensor with thin tape probes that is designed to be set between CPU/Heatsink to provide real time accurate monitoring for chips (theres two, so I plan on doing CPU and NB), so I will have real data instead of hoping it is right. (19.00 US). Nice little 3.5" or 5.25" models avail in black, silver or beige.
Nick

"Easy" way to lower MEGA 180 CPU Temp

Let me start off by saying I haven't done this yet but I think it would work. I built a Mega 180 based machine for a customer and have had nothing but problems with it. I got a call from her last night to tell me that the CPU temp on the display is in the 70 C range and she is getting nervous about it (frankly, so am I). I'm picking up the PC from her in a few days to see if I can lower the CPU temp any. Here's what I'm thinking of doing:
1) Since I already lapped the bottom of the heatsink and used Artic Silver thermal grease, there's nothing else I can do in that area. It's already optimal.
2) The heatsink is 100% copper with lots of cooling fins. There isn't a better thermal material for a heatsink, within reason. Aluminum is no good. Basically, the design of the heatsink is good, but not perfect. First, why they would design the sink to suck hot air off of the video card and blow it through the fins is beyond me. Naturally, the CPU will never be cooler than the air that's being used to cool it. The heat sink needs fresh, cool air.
3) To provide the heatsink with fresh cool air I plan on first, turing the big fan on the sink around so it blows out, not in. Second, I plan on replacing the little fan with a bigger fan and position it so it blows in, not out. Then I plan on making a short duct that attaches over the fan on the right (with the front of the PC facing you) and extend the duct a few inches to the right so it is less than an inch from the side of the case. Lastly, I plan on using some lexan and making a very small deflector to put on the heatsink's exhaust fan. It will be about 1/2 inch wide and as long as the fan (80mm?). It will be tilted at a 45 degree angle. The deflector will channel the hot air away from the video card and towards the front left side of the case. This will avoid trading one heat problem (CPU) for another (video card).
If all goes well, a drop of 10 C under maximum load should be achieved. I'll let you know how this turns out.
I may also try the following:
1) Buy some RAM heat sinks and using thermal glue, glue them to the hard drive.
2) Position a 40mm fan so it blows on the heat sinks on the hard drive.
3) Position another 40mm fan so it blows across the chipset's heat sink.

god damn thats a great idea, why didnt I think of that
I lapped my heatsink last weekend, the hardware store where i got my sand paper didnt have any grid over 600 so I had to settle with that. But I'm still pleased with the results. I figured that that plus some some Artic Silver 5 would get me a bit on my way.
I would have documented it with my camera if the batteries just wasnt out :/
At the same time I installed a "silent" 15db@1500rpm 80x80mm Everflow fan on the left side of the case (when facing the front) that blows the air in. All of these efforts improved the temperature just a bit. The noise increased a bit but it isnt all that much trouble consithering I've spent my last couple of months with my ears next to a server that has the lovely sound level of around 60db (note: no case fans on the server at all)
As I recall the idle temperature used to be over 60c and now it sometimes drops below 50c. But most of the times its around 53-55c (all of this is at around 25c ambient temperature). But the heat problem while gaming is still a huge problem. When it hits around 70 the computer crashes.
But before my efforts to do something about it, it would die within 10min of high load. Now it can take up to about an hour (depending on how the ambient temperature is).
Next up I think I'm gonna try out your idea. Switch the fans, and maybe even install another Everflow fan having 4 fans totaly pulling the air through the case (but from right to left this time :P)
why call it MSI Entertainment Gaming Applicance if you cant entertain yourself by gaming on it ? =P
/Wezz

P6N Sli Platinum front audio panel and CPU temp voltage issues

Hi All,
I got my P6N Sli Platinum yesterday, build up my computer without any major issues. However I have noticed that my audio front panel does not work. It could not detect my microphone when i plug it into front auido panel, it works fine for the rear auido panel though.
Another issues is I highly doubt the accuracy of CPU temp sensor. Msi 's software monitor reports my CPU temp is around 19-20 degree, I know that's too good to be true even I am using a water cooling system. Btw my cpu is E6600. Anyone else has the similar issues?
The third, I notice my CPU voltage is bouncing between 1.1 to 1.24 in CPU-z. And the multiplier is changing from 6 to 9, frequency is changing from 1.6g to 2.4g. I only see this in CPU-z. Msi 's own software reports CPU running at 2.4g though. Is this cpuz issue or something else?
Finally, any tips to max the overclock potential of this board? I have overclocked to 3.1g but there are some crashes. Going higher the board just won't boot up. I read a review on anandtech.com says 1.22 bios is good for oc. Where can i download that? I only found 1.1 bios on official site.
Any reply will be appreciated.
Cheers

Quote
Another issues is I highly doubt the accuracy of CPU temp sensor. Msi 's software monitor reports my CPU temp is around 19-20 degree, I know that's too good to be true even I am using a water cooling system. Btw my cpu is E6600. Anyone else has the similar issues?
C2D-CPUs have a digital internal sensor to monitor CPU Core temperatures. Have a look at those with Core Temp ( http://www.thecoolest.zerobrains.com/CoreTemp/ ). This Tool reads the temperature data directly from the register of your CPU. There is nothing wrong with the sensor. It is rather the MSI tool that does not read the data it provides correctly.
Quote
The third, I notice my CPU voltage is bouncing between 1.1 to 1.24 in CPU-z. And the multiplier is changing from 6 to 9, frequency is changing from 1.6g to 2.4g. I only see this in CPU-z. Msi 's own software reports CPU running at 2.4g though. Is this cpuz issue or something else?
There is no issue. What CPU-Z allows you to see there is the C1E-feature of your CPU at work. When there is nothing to do your processor will automatically reduce Core Voltages and frequency to save power and keep temperatures down. As soon as the work load increases the multiplier is set back to x9 and core voltages increase dynamically. It is meant to be a good thing.
I have overclocked my system a little and I like that the C1E feature is still working at this speed setting CPU frequency to 2GHz and core voltage to 1.144v when my system is idle.
If you have problems with this feature you can turn it off in BIOS. The option is labeled as "C1E Support" and might be hidden somewhere. You may be able to hit "F4" to unhide it.
The MSI utilities are not the best tools to monitor your system. CPU-Z, Core Temp, Everest, Speedfan, Memset, Rightmark Memory Analyzer for example do a far better job.

CPU temp hits 200 deg F - does it need repair?

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