Crop and Tethered Question

At work I have been given a Aluminum PowerBook to replace a 633mhz TiBook. The new PB doesn't have a licenced copy of C1Pro but it has Aperture. How do I lift and stamp a crop? Also when shooting tetherd with model shoots "Nightmare"; If you shoot a burst then none of the images download, just lost forever. Another thing when shooting tethered how do you change projects without going to the workflow folder throwing every thing away, then having to start fresh with automator.

The same happened to me, well, almost, when shooting with less than 4 seconds between pictures, my camera software did received every single picture, but the problem seems to be from automator being too slow to quickly read the images that are received in the folder and uploading them to Aperture, where I finally received half of the pictures shot. Since all of the images where in the original folder in the desktop, I assume this is an automator bug rather tha Aperture's. Any idea?

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Crop and Place Question :o)

Hi all,
I've been looking for an answer to this for weeks so fingers crossed someone will be able to help me. I create textures using PS and when a pack is finished I create a 'cover' picture to use to sell the texture packs. They look something like this:
Usually I crop each texture individually and place them manually onto a template, my question is: is there anyway, by an action or whatnot, to get PS to crop a batch of textures automatically and then distribute them nicely/place them into a new image?
Any help I can get would be appreciated as I am sure there has to be an easier way than the manual way I've been doing it!
Thanks!

Hi, Amira.
One method:
Below are 5 swatches pasted into a PSD.
Set Rulers to per cent.
Action:
1.Set selection as below. Right border should be 20%
2. Crop image. Menu>Image>Crop
3. Crop the resulting image to 500%.
4. Select Layer 4. Move right 20%.
5. Select Layer 3. Move right 40%.
6. Select Layer 2. Move right 60%
7. Select Layer 1. Move right 80%.
A screenshot of the action.
Note: The "Subtract From Selection" step is really the creation of the first selection at 20%. The action palette seems to have its own lingo for some things. Same with the "Set Selection" step. You're actually deleting the selection left over from the previous step.
At this point you can add a step for your logo or whatever else you'd like. It looks like you might have a little drop shadow going in your example. You could apply layer styles in the action. If you want the swatches to overlap a little, adjust the percentages accordingly. And since we're working with percentages, it should work for any size document.
Caveats: The action must be recorded with the Ruler set to per cent. This action won't Place anything. You have to add the content to the layers manually. The layers must be named consistently. In your case I would create 5 layers, then apply your textures to each layer in the desired order. Then run the action.
I fiddled around with the distribute function, but it wouldn't play nice.
Btw, those are sweet textures.
Peace,
Lee

Cropping and scaling question

I have a simple question. Maybe it's an easy one. I'm making a movie. I'm shooting with a Panasonic dvx100 camera. Now in one scene, there's something I don't like at the edge of the frame (I should have zoomed in tighter). I tried cropping a little and scaling up to keep the frame at the same size. Is there any reason why I shouldn't do this? If there is, I can work around it. It's not imperative but it would be nicer. I guess what I'm wondering is if this will affect the quality of the video very much. It looks OK. I don't immediately see any big change in the quality. But If people advise me not to do this for some reason I will avoid it. I don't want to compromise the quality of the video.

I'm such a fool I'm not even sure what "DV25 codecs" is.
I'd love some simple directions about settings I should make sure I'm adhering to when I edit. I shot in 24p with my Panasonic dvx100.
But what a fast reply!!!!
Maybe you answered my question:
So if I don't scale more than 10% I'm kind of safe????
Because I'm not scaling more than that I don't think.
So if I keep it kind of slight I shouldn't worry?
And I guess it's just elementary that for each crop value I scale up the exact amount and there's no special reason to worry about this.
I mean I'm kind of a technical dolt. I just want to make sure I'm not messing up anything important as I edit my rather long movie.

How do i sync iphone with multiple macs? and few questions

Hi
I would appreciate if anyone would help me.
1. I would like to know how to sync my iphone with different macs. I have a macbook 13 and a macbook 15 and would like to use BOTH to be able to transfer data without losing them. (address, apps, photos and music)
would like to use this feature if I were to be suddenly on a trip and a friend would like to share some of his files (audio, apps, photos..etc)
2. is it possible to use internet tethering on multiple macs or example a "spontanious" mac? (ex. if I were suddenly to use internet through usb on a friends mac while we were on a trip but it were programmed on my mac at home)
3. my internet tethering is only working on one mac which I usually use to sync everything... i tried just using tethering through usb on the other mac wihtout any sync but somehow it didnt work... usually i just plug and play and start using firefox... by automatic detection...
4. is there also a way to copy files from iphone onto a mac which would not be one of my libraries?
5. why cant i use iphone like the ipod as a disk use?
I am aware that these things are somewhat possible because i have read quiet a few artivles but they are sadly enough not so current... any help appreciated.

#1: As has been said, you can't get around it. An iPhone cannot be synched to more than one computer for any media content (it can be for contacts and calendar information, I believe).
#4: You can transfer items purchased from the iTunes Store to another computer but only if you disallow synchronization and authorize that computer to your iTunes Store account. There are third-party utilities that can transfer non-iTunes Store content.
#5: there is no disk mode in an iPhone and no way to enable one, at least not in the sense of disk mode in earlier iPods. There are third-party apps that allow some file transfer to and from an iPhone.
I can't help with tethering questions.

Crop and Zoom

I want to crop and/or zoom into a corner of a clip in my project, and then slowly zoom back out to show the entire clip. But I can't figure out how to accomplish this. When I use the crop or clip effect, it remains for the length of the clip. To give you an idea of what I mean, there is a car that starts on the left side of the clup and goes out of frame after a few seconds, so I want to avoid showing the car by starting with a zoomed in view of the right side of the clip.
How can I zoom in on portion of my clip, then back out again?
Thanks!

As John Nash points out, your Zoom and Pan can be easily done via Keyframing the Fixed * Effects>Motion>Position (Pan/location), and Motion>Scale (Zoom). Be sure to read his graciously furnished link completely, and if you do not understand any terms in it, and cannot find a useful definition of any, drop back with any questions.
As John notes, many/most Effects can be Keyframed to change over time. There ARE some exceptions, but not that many.
* Fixed Effects are those that are automatically applied to all Video Clips (Volume is a Fixed Effect, added to any Audio), and will always be there. Motion, contains Scale and Position, the two that you will use here. One adjusts these most easily and effectively from the Effects Control Panel, which is invoked by hitting Edit Effects in the Effects Tab, with that Clip Selected. Other Effects are first added from the Effects Tab.
Steve's tutorials and articles are great resources, as well, and come highly recommended, along with John's link.
Good luck, and happy editing,
Hunt
PS - as Keyframes are so very useful and powerful, and can be used in so many cases, I urge one to learn the concepts. Though time might need to be invested, it will pay great dividends later.

Changing the Color of Crop and Bleed Marks from Registration to Black

Hello all,
I have been searching the web and have tried numerous things but I can't seem to solve this problem. In InDesign crop marks and bleed marks are printed in "Registration" color. I understand why that is needed for plate printing. However I am laser printing and I need those marks to be in "Black" color. I have tried to edit the cropmark script by changing "Registration" to "Black" on the line with myRegColor. I have tried changing the printer setting to "Pure Black". However I can't get the crop and bleed marks to print in "Black". I have been on various websites and while there are people asking the question I haven't found a answer that works. I have searched this community as well but haven't found an answer that I understand. Before I manually make crop marks I want to make sure I am not missing something completely obvious.
With laser printing there is a different charge for color and B&W. The fact that the crop marks are coming in as color and not black means B&W pages are counted as color in the printing cost. I have tested the same docuement (which was just one page full of sample black text) with and without crop/bleed marks. When the document is printed without the marks the printer clicks as a B&W page. When it is printed with the marks the printer click as a color page.
I am creating the doc in InDesign and exporting to Acrobat for printing. I am using Creative Cloud so I think I have the most up to date version of InDesign.
Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks.
-TS

With CS6 or later you can export to grayscale and in that case the crops will be black only. Like this:
You should set your Appearance of Black to Rich black otherwise 100% black CMYK might export to something less than 100% grayscale. When you check the PDF in Acrobat set the simulation profile to the grayscale profile you export to.

Cropping and outputting to a non-standard ratio

I have a video of a guy speaking and it was shot apparently on a camera that was turned on its side. Beautiful, I know. So, I need to rotate it, which is easy enough. But, when I do, I have space on either side because the ratio then becomes 3:4, and if I zoom the video in too far, the man's head gets cut off. SO, I want to be able to rotate, crop, and output the video to a vertical ratio like 4:8 instead of 4:3. Is this possible??
Same question for outputting to a 16:9 ratio.
If I wasn't clear enough, let me know.

OK, I may have confused you... Let me try this a different way.
How do I output my FCE movie to a file format like QuickTime so when I open the finished movie in QuickTime, the dimension of the movie is 300 W x 480 H, and not 640x480 with black bars on either side?
let me know if that still doesn't make sense what I'm asking.

Photoshop CS6: Auto Crop and Straighten work wrong (EDIT)

Hello together,
I use the Creative Cloud for Students (German) and have make for some days an update of my programs like Photoshop CS6.
Since today the option of automatic crop and straighten makes some big problems.
Edit:
I make following Steps:
1.) Duplicate the level and make the first level invisible.
2.) I use the crop tool to mark the details which I want to have free.
3.) Click on the mask symbole in the level section
4.) At the end I click "auto crop and straighten"
It makes 39 little pics out of one. This isn't what I want to do and it is since the last update.
--> Edit end.
I hope someone understand my problem and can help.
Greetz
Markus from Germany

Since your question asks "Could we ..." I would like to state that "we" cannot do such a thing. "We" here in this forum are Lightroom users, and not Adobe employees. If you'd like to make a request for a specific new feature in Lightroom, there is a link right here on the front page of this forum to the proper place to make feature requests.

How do I finish editing a picture? I crop, and the photo still says it is being edited.

How do I get out of editing? I crop and size a photo and it has a belt around it saying it is still being edited. I need help.

Barbickfd
If your program is Photoshop Elements and not Premiere Elements, for your convenience, I am posting the link to the Adobe Photoshop Elements Forum where you can post your Photoshop Elements 12 crop question.
Photoshop Elements
Without further details, I am guessing that the Elements Organizer 12 is involved. You may have decided to edit a photo represented in the Elements Organizer, opened it in the Editor, and, then after the crop there, did not close out of the Editor, and went back to the Elements Organizer.
ATR

Lightroom 4 and 5 my program constantly freezes while using the crop and straighten tool

In both Lightroom 4 and 5 my program constantly freezes while using the crop and straighten tool with horizontal images. Im running Lightroom on a Quad-Core Intel Xeon Mac with 32 GB of memory with OS 10.8.4, this problem has gotten worse and worse to the point where the crop tool is unusable. Please help!

Alright,
no replies so far! Anyways, here's some more information which is leading me to the conclusion that the bug causing the effect described above is a combination of Apple's SMB implementation of Mavericks and the way Lightroom is actually using SMB network access:
I did another trial by connecting a USB hard drive to the USB port of my router (Netgear). The connection is quite slow, but moving one of the folders in question (see my 1st post above) to the shared drive connected to the Router made Lightroom on my Windows machine to see the photos again, when I told Lightroom where to find the moved folder!
Everything was working as expected, on the Windows machine again! Moving the folder back again to the Mac Mini fileshare was causing Lightroom on the PC to get blind again for the pictures trying to sync or import. However, accessing and modifying a photo was possible again, like it was before the trial. So it's only the sync and import function having a problem!
I also did some trial in re-building ACLs and access rights on the file server with no luck. So there's got to be a functionality in sync and import of Lightroom which is using a certain SMB feature which is not supported by Apple's SMB implementation!
Any thoughts or hints?
Thanks!

Rotate, crop, and retouch images in Camera Raw

This question was posted in response to the following article: http://help.adobe.com/en_US/creativesuite/cs/using/WSB8F2AD18-6EB1-4285-A326-7426B9808E00. html

Why have you removed all the functionality from the crop tool. I used to size images in Bridge, now to get specific size crops I'd need to go to Photoshop. Adding more resize options to the bottom only affects the whole image, and 100% of finished images I output are cropped, and obviously not by the same amount, doing any scale to fit at the bottom means differently finished crops. AAAAAR%GH!!!! I have had to revert to CS 6 for workflow. And why has the Output module gone? I used to output different sizes of the same thing for web and print.

Cropping and saving photos 4x6

I cropped my photos (200 or so) using "none" as the constrain. I think in order to order the prints, I need to convert them to 4x6 photos. Two questions:
1, Is there a way to select a whole album of pictures and then, as a group, apply the 4x6 constrain? It seemed the only way I could do it was one by one.
2. After I did change them to the 4x6 contraint, the 4x6 sizing tool was centered. In many pictures, I wanted to drag the 4x6 to the left or right. Then I clicked crop and the picture seemed saved as a 4x6. However when I scrolled back to the picture I thought I had cropped 4x6 off center, it was back to being centered, and cutting off the heads and shoulders of people.
So how can I crop photos 4x6 but in an off center way and save these changes so they will print correctly?

I have Mac OS 10.7.5 and Photoshop CS5 Extended. I cropped both a jpeg and tif file/photo
and then saved it - save as and/or save - and the image disappeared. The only thing that was visible was the file title with .jpeg or.tif extension, and the gray box or outline that goes around the image, but also some of the images the thumbnail image was gone too - just a title was visible on the desktop screen where I saved it. Are these images gone? Where are they? Where did they go and how do I get them back? And why is my crop tool and save doing this and how do I fix it?
I was able to make other corrections like using Curves to photos and saved them with no problem. Just the crop tool does makes the images do this after or before I save it
Thanks for any help you can provide.

Crop and straighten

Crop and straighten tool no longer work correctly in PSE 11, windows 7. Problem surfaced in the last week. Have done a complete reinstall and problem still exists. Appers to be an instability error.

Try Edit> Preferences> General> "Reset Preferences on Next Launch" and restart PSE.
Cheers,
Neale
Insanity is hereditary, you get it from your children
If this post or another user's post resolves the original issue, please mark the posts as correct and/or helpful accordingly. This helps other users with similar trouble get answers to their questions quicker. Thanks.

How will Aperture treat Nikon raw images which have been enhanced using Capture NX2 software? Some are cropped and "developed" and some have been enhanced using the control point technology. I have NIK sw as a plug-in in aperture.

How will Aperture treat Nikon raw images which have been enhanced using Capture NX2 software? Some are cropped and "developed" and some have been enhanced using the control point technology. I have NIK sw as a plug-in in aperture.

Actually, there is a Nik/Nikon connection — but I am pretty sure it is irrelevant to the OP's question. The connection is that Capture NX2 was written as a joint venture between Nikon and Nik. (The name similarity is a coincidence.)
Capture NX2 is a cool program that incorporates the features of Nik's Viveza and Nikon's Raw processing engine, along with some other powerful image adjustment features. It provides, like Aperture, a losses workflow. Unlike Aperture, the adjustments (Edit Steps in C-NX terminology) are saved in the original NEF file along with the un-altered raw data. Multiple versions can be saved in a single NEF.

Cropping and Transforming on 16:9 to 4:3 with Pillars

I currently use a Canon XH A1 in HD mode to capture 8/Super 8 film. As you know this old film lines up more closely to 4:3, so I have to crop it in final cut X, and use transform to center it. I have beeen mostly been eyeballing it for center, but that can be off a bit or a little.
My question is, how can I make my viewable image size consistent across all the film I crop and transform. Is there an overlay that can give me the exact dimensions every time?
I can use the transform to enlarge, or crop to shrink if necessary, I just want the pillar boxes to be in the same place all the time. Any help would be appreciated.
I am using 10.0.6. Disgesting first with Imovie and then importing the Imovie Event Library from within Final Cut X.

you could do the math once on one clip.. Then write down the numbers and enter them into the transform x/y fields.
Should be faster than eyeballing each and every...
i.e the center of of a 1920x1080 is 960 & 540

Crop and Tethered Question

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