Cropped Images and My Photostream

Having finally solved the problem images from my iPhone are now uploading to iCloud again..
Problem now is that images that I have edited on the Phone ( Cropped ) appear un-cropped in My Photostream on the PC
I use the phone to record images of expense reciepts when travelling and it would be usefull to have acess to the edited version on the PC
Is there a simple workaround for this ?

but however they are saved in my library under "events"sorted according to year and date even after 30 days.
Then you have probably "automatic import" enabled; and your Photo Steam photos are automatically imported into monthly events in your library. The Photos in the monthly events are part of your library and will stay, if the photos are deleted from the Photo Stream.

Similar Messages

  • Cropping images and resizing

    I'm trying to take several images, find the largest one and then make sure all the rest are that size and centered in that image with a transparent border/background around them for any space left.
    For example:
    I have 3 100x100px images and the 4th is 150x120px. I want the first 3 to be the same size as number 4 but not be enlarged, just centered in an image that is the same size as the 4th.
    I have hundreds of images to do this to so one at a time isn't a great option, is there a way to make an action to do this? I've had no luck.
    So far I've tried using scripts to merge the files as layers into one document, crop the image way bigger than any image will be then trim to hit the border of the largest image. That works fine...but then how can I save those layers back out as their respective png files again?
    I'm on CS5 btw.
    Thanks.

    blanktarget2 wrote:
    I'm trying to take several images, find the largest one and then make sure all the rest are that size and centered in that image with a transparent border/background around them for any space left.
    To start with depending on your image file mix there may be a basic problem.  If there is a mixture of Landscape and portrait images none of the images you have may not have a width and height that is largest of all  the images.
    Photoshop ships with a script you can use that will help you do what you want though.  If you open Photoshop and use menu File>Scripts>Load Files into Stack... you can point its dialog to a folder that has your image collection. This script will load all images in that folder into a single document that will have a canvas size that is as wide as the image with the largest width and as high as the images with the largest height.  None of the layers may be that size and the layers contents may not be centered within this canvas size. However that can easly be done.
    The top layer I beleive will be the current target after Load Files into stack runs. Hold down the shift ken and mous click on the bottom layer in the layers palette. All layers should now be targeted.
    Then do a select all
    then  menu Layers>align layers to selection>Vertical Center
    then  menu Layers>align layers to selection>Horizontal Center
    All layers will now be centered within the documents canvas size. That would be easy to do in an action.  Now you would need to create a new document with a transparent background  the current canvas size for each  layer and mover a layer centered into it and delete the bottom layer and save a image file in a format that supports transparency.
    Once you have your image stack in the proper canvas sized document centered or not you should be able to create an script to create your output files.

  • When opening an image Photoshop Elements 12 is opening it in Camera Raw, it is not a RAW image and it is cropped How do I uncrop the opened image?

    When I am opening a .jpg image not an actual raw camera image from Elements 12 it is being opened as a camera Raw image and the image is cropped, I can't find anyway to get the image to uncrop or zoom out so that the entire image is visible so that I can actually edit it to something that is useable. The images were taken with an iPad and copied I suspect using the organizer from Elements 11 but I can't be sure. If I could just uncrop the opened image so that the entire image is visible this would not be a big deal.
    Is there a way to uncrop the image that is being opened by Camera Raw? Am I going to have to get my hands on the source of the images (the iPad) and copy the images again using explorer and not let them be copied with the organizer?

    Uncheck the boxes at the bottom of the dialog Scale styles and resample Image so that only constrain proportions is checked. If you the change the resolution box from 240 to 300 you will get back to your original dimensions.
    This is a meaningless thing to do, you still have the exact same number of pixels, you have only changed the metadata number in the file for ppi, and your prints are not affected by this number.
    You could also use the same method to change the dimensions to 6 x 4 or 9 x 6 etc.
    There are some cases (actually most cases) where you need to CROP the photo to change the dimensions, when the aspect ratio of the original photos is different than the aspect ratio of the final photo; the specific case in 99jon's example is the only case you ever want to change dimensions using Image->Resize->Image Size, where the aspect ratio doesn't change from 6x4 to 9x6 (or 12x8 or 18x12 or ...), and even then, you could do the same thing simply by telling the printer the size you want, you don't really need to do anything in PSE.

  • JPEG/PSD issue--I open a jpeg and edit it (levels, crop) and then "save as" and the save as option shows there are now levels in the image and it wants to save it as a .psd file or a copy with layers.  What am I doing that has these settings appear?

    JPEG/PSD issue--I open a jpeg and edit it (levels, crop) and then "save as" and the save as option shows there are now levels in the image and it wants to save it as a .psd file or a copy with layers.  What am I doing that has these settings appear?

    16bit? Pixels extending beyond the canvas? (from a crop with delete unused pixels turn off).  Have you previously been saving PSD files?
    IME you sometimes have to tell Photoshop that the first save of a session is JPG, and it remembers from there on.  The way to 'tell' Photoshop that JPG, or PDF, or PNG etc are now your preferred format is to Ctrl (Cmd) click on that format in the Save As drop down list.  So long as the file does not have parameters that your chosen format does not support, then this should work for you.
    [EDIT]  Just noticed that you did include 'Crop' in the subject line.  Do you have 'Delete cropped pixels' checked?

  • How do I fix problem with linked and cropped image frames not printing properly when spanning pages?

    We are using InDesign (ID) to develop and print church bulletins which contain a combination of text frames and graphics. One of the graphic types we use are TIF files which are high-resolution scans of hymns.
    A hymn usually has a combination of the musical score, plus the lyrics - with many verses., so the modular structure is 'staff' composed of a treble clef, followed by verses, followed by a base clef.
    If the example above had 6 verses instead of one, we would crop the image by adjusting the frame, so that the treble clef and the desired verses showed through the frame.
    We would then copy and link the frame - piggy back - adjusting the next content window etc....so we build a custom version of the music as a series of linked frames - each with the same base image, but a different frame position.
    So this works fine, when we do this on a single page, but when we then add a 'last staff' at the top of the following page, we encounter print problems with some output devices.
    Imagine a two-page spread, with a full page of music on the left, and the last staff (treble clef, verses, base clef) unit as a separately linked frame at the top of the right page of the spread.
    It displays correctly, and will print individually as pages correctly, but when we print it as a booklet, the last frame drops out and we have blank space.
    I can print the document to PDF and it works fine, but if I print it to a copier or laser printer I get drop out.
    It is inconsistent.
    Previews are always okay. Individual page prints are okay, but when you print the entire document, the last frame in this kind of linked series gets blanked.
    If we create and name the image differently, and call it in as a new image - (not linked to the previous), but it is still a large image that is cropped to a small piece, then it doesn't print.
    If we save the last frame as a different image type (take the TIFF file into photoshop, crop it and save it as a jpg - so it is only the 'snippet') and then import it, it works fine.
    So my question to you InDesigners....is there some setting or tip or trick I need to know to be able to link a series of frames with the same base image, but different crops and make it span across two pages properly.
    Or do we need to play this game of crop and trim the image so that it doesn't drop out?
    Any thoughts, advice, direction would be gratefully received!

    I did a lot of such hymn things in the past, but I was alway working on the scans in Photoshop, like adjusting, retouching spots and cropping. And I was always seperating those images to be more flexible so I never run into such a problem.
    I am always scanning in a higher quality level than I would need, I scan it in color, this allows me to eliminate paper color easily, even if I need 1-bit images at the end, I do it in color, so I can also turn the image.
    I did once run into a similar problem with a scan I have got from a copier-scanner machine (it was not a song). But saving as PSD resolved my problem.
    So I would suggest: Open your files in Photoshop, resave them as PSD files and use those instead. If you use 1-bit images (which is fine for this type of images) you should use a resolution equal to the printer's resolution.

  • How do I save a photo after I have zoomed in on it?  I want to save the zoom-in as a new photo and can't work out why this doesn't work the same way saving a cropped image, or adjusted image does.  Thank you.

    How do I save an image after I have zoomed in on it?  I can't work out why I can't save a zoom-in the same way
    I can save a cropped image or an adjusted image. Thanks, Lily A.

    Hi Matt, thanks for your reply.  Have realised that Zoom in Iphoto is just  a viewing tool and not an editing tool.
    Was creating beautiful abstractions by zooming in and wanted to create a new image of the result.   Have since discovered that cropping after zooming takes me a little way to where I want to go but it isn't the same effect.  Will perhaps have to try to create it when actually shooting.  Am doing a photoshop course in February and maybe will learn a bit more then, too.  Am pretty much an amateur just finding my way.
    Thanks again,
    Best, Lily

  • Ease of rotating and cropping images in CS6

    There is much I like about the new crop: Rotating the image instead of the box is SO much easier and the straighten option is a great time saver.
    But in one instance, I'm finding cropping in CS6 to be harder: Cropping images that are not correctly oriented in the first place.  Rotating an image 90-degrees was a snap in CS2: Alt-I/E/0.  The shortcut keys are gone in CS6, so using the rotation command is no longer quick.
    But I can do it in the crop box, right?  True -- but not easily.  The image is landscape, the crop box is portrait.  With the crop tool selected, holding the shift key down to get fixed-increment rotations doesn't work: Pressing the SHIFT key changes the cursor from rotation to the crop cursor.  To get the rotation, I have to start rotating the image and then press SHIFT to get 15-degree increments.  A few moments later, I have rotated the image into portrait orientation -- and the crop box is now centered on the image, but it is set to crop the middle.  I have to drag the handles out to get approximately what I want: The full image in the crop box.  (What I want is what I would get if I rotate the image with the Rotate command, then control-zero to fill the screen, and then select the crop tool.)
    We rotate a lot of images.  It's easy to do in CS2 and the two approaches I've found for CS6 are both awkward.  The new crop tool has replaced the dual arrows in older versions (to swap the horizontal and vertical sizes) with a rotation arrow.  I think you should restore the arrows (and their function) -- then use the rotate button to rotate the image, not the crop box.  (Isn't that the design center for the new crop box?  We're moving the image, not the crop box.)

    Howard, thanks for the tip about the X key; didn't realize it worked that way when the crop tool is active.  But in this case I had set the crop box dimenions, so the crop box starts out with the correct orientation.  Having played with this for a day, I conclude that the best approach for this task is to restore the old keyboard conventions for image rotation and rotate the image before launching the crop tool.
    I stand by my observation that the rotate key should affect the image, not the crop box because that is consistent with the new cropping paradigm: We rotate the image, not the crop box.  I realize making a change this late in the development cycle is awkward -- but if CS6 ships with this behavior, it will become even harder to change later -- and the user interface should be as consistent as possible.
    Noel, you are correct: The images are coming from scanned film.  All frames get scanned with the same orientation.  I want to avoid the "Patient: Doctor, it hurts when I do this.  Doctor: Then don't do that!" scenario.  Granted: If images are "correctly" oriented, this issue doesn't arise.  But not all images are oriented correctly and CS6 should be at least as graceful in handling the task as previous versions.

  • REQUEST: Crop Beyond Image and Fill "Background" with Choosable Color

    One of the features I'm missing most is the ability to extend the crop tool rectangle beyond the image and have the "new" area filled with some choosable color (like the background color in the crop tool in Photoshop). This is especially useful when turning the image at an angle. Actually I like the usability of the Lightroom approach - turning the image behind the rectangle - better than in Photoshop where the rectangle is turned.

    Lens corrections - manual - scale, set to less than 100 and try again.  Background color isn't selectable.

  • Cropping at same size and with aligned images (and/or at scale)

    hi all. i am hoping for a little help as i tune up my photoshop usage.
    i am finding that i sometimes have a need to crop a couple of images from something like an architectural line drawing. this means that i have lines in this drawing and i am oftentimes in need - for instance if i have copied two floor plan with one above the other - of having these images sit in a frame that is the SAME SIZE.
    i am also in the need of cropping so that the resulting images are ALIGNED - with for instance one line in one image at the same spot at the bottom and to the left with the same amount of bleed area around the image both at this point and at all other points.
    is there a way to crop an image in two different spots at the SAME SIZE?
    is there a way to crop a "sloppy" copy of two sets of images so that the canvas is the same size but the resulting set of images are aligned in the manner described above?
    ALSO, is there some way for me to SCALE a set of images in Photoshop?
    thanks in advance for any links, advice, expertise etcetera.
    - jon

    hi jjm.
    i think i threw something in that should have been separated into antother posting. i am not so concerned about the scaling question.
    i am more concerned about being able to get two separate sets of images - with for instance a line drawing - out of another drawing so that i have two images that when placed in a document will have the same size and the same amount of bleed area in white around it.
    i guess in thinking about this - that i would just copy and paste each image to a new document, CROP as close to the image as possible and then ENLARGE THE CANVAS SIZE to whatever size i wanted. this would then meant that the image had almost the same placement in the canvas since i CROPPED the two images as close as possible and then enlarged to suit.
    but this seems like it only would work for images with white backgrounds or single color backgrounds in a way somehow.
    i mean, is there a way to place a COPY box on a very large image with a set of other images in it and Copy two sets of images to new documents so that they are the same size? or i mean a more accurate way to COPY information out of a document? what about making sure that an image is placed correctly in a CANVAS?
    it seems like i would be asking for a tool that would let me select a point on the image and to tell photoshop to give me this image (or each image in this case) a CANVAS of some size or a CANVAS with some BORDER /around/ the rest of the image of some measurement.
    is there anything like this? something more accurate for copying information so that i can repeat the copy and something more accurate for CUT or Canvas so that i can place an image in the final file more accurately?
    i always sort of wing it with this and have to do Canvas sizes freehand or CUT the image close and then enlarge the canvas and this seems rather imprecise...
    THANKS

  • Replacing and retaining scaled and cropped images

    Hi,
    For some reason I can't find how to replace exisisting images that had been tweeked or even images that have not been tweeked in Author. I have several similar images that needs to be scaled and postion in the same area from page to page. I import an image, scale it and cropped it, but once placed I don't know how to replace it with a different image. I tried creating a a template (another problem), but still no go.
    *also, is there a way to create a job without using template? It doesn't seem to allow you it.
    Thanks in advance...AG_779

    You can have a master image on the right hand page in the layout pane,
    and set it to be a media placeholder.(in inspector)
    The image will be same size same spot on each page,
    You can drag an drop to replace the image on each page.
    The problem is, if the new image is a different size (pixels), it will change the size of the place holder frame to match the new image. it will not keep the size of the master image and crop with in that size.
    It is best if you scale and crop each image outside of IBA in Photoshop etc. first,
    then drag and drop on the place hlder for each page.

  • Straightening and cropping images - Classroom in a Book

    I'm working my way through Adobe Photshop 7, ClassRoom in a book. I'm now on lesson three and I'm completely stuck. I have my image open (its not straight and needs cropping)and I have selected the cropping tool and entered the width and height dimensions.
    The book then tells you to use the marquee tool to select the area that you want to keep, which I have done. But then things go sour for me. It says after you release the mouse button a cropping shield covers the cropping selection, and the tool bar option now displays choices about the cropping shield. This doesn't happen for me. I just get a broken outline around the area I want to crop.
    Also, it says in the tools option bar make sure that the Perspective Check box is not selected. I can't find this on the toolbar.
    And, finally,it says, In the image window move the pointer outside the crop marquee, so it appears as a curved double arrow. Then clockwise to rotate the marquee until it is parallel with the edges of the pictured window frame. Again, this doesn't happen for me, all that happens is the pointer changed to a cross.
    Please can someone help as I can't progree with the book unless I sort this out.
    Many thanks,
    A. D.

    Below is an image of photoshop CS3 or version 10. But the icons should look the same.
    Silk

  • How do you crop and save a cropped image

    How do you crop and save a cropped image in PS Touch?

    This forum does not deal with any of the Touch applications.
    Try here:
    http://forums.adobe.com/community/photoshop_touch_for_phone
    or here:
    http://forums.adobe.com/community/creative_cloud_touch_apps/adobe_photoshop_touch

  • I am trying to crop faces from old family group photos and paste them on to records in Family Tree Maker. When I do this, the pasted cropped image reverts to the original of the entire family. Is there a way of unlinking the original version from the crop

    I am trying to crop faces from old family group photos and paste them on to records in Family Tree Maker. When I do this, the pasted cropped image reverts to the original of the entire family. Is there a way of unlinking the original version from the cropped image?

    Are you copying the cropped images directly from Aperture's Browser window and then pasting into your family tree?
    It would be safer to export the cropped faces as new image files to a folder on your disk, and then drag them from there to the "Family Tree" window.
    To export select the cropped image versions in Aperture's browser and use the command "File > Export > Version". Select a suitable export preset from the pop-up menu, for example "Jpeg fit into ..." and select a folder to export to.
    Regards
    Léonie

  • Spot Removal Tool and cropped images

    When I crop an image and then decide I want to use the Spot Removal Tool I end up having to undo the crop before I use the Tool. Why? Because if I crop first and then use the Tool the selected replacement area often comes from outside the crop. If LR5 gets the choice wrong (it's not perfect, I accept that) then I have to undo the Spot Removal, undo the crop, guess what I need to Spot Remove, use the Tool and then Crop again.
    Can you fix this to ensure that the Spot Healing Tool only uses replacement areas from WITHIN the crop? Many thanks.

    What I do is to zoom out (usually 4:1).  Then move the mouse cursor outward along the direction of the line connecting the source area (not visible) and destination (visible) area until the mouse cursor turns into the hand.  Then I'll drag the source area back into the cropped image where it becomes visible.  Finally, zoom back in and move the source area to the location of my choosing.
    Hope that helps.

  • Image Editing Issues (Crop, Frame and Shadow)

    Hi Everyone!
    I'm in the midst of creating a rather lengthy brochure-like document, and I've inserted pictures on to pages, cropped, framed and added a shadow to all of them. But when I export the file as a pdf, there are a few pages where these photos are no longer cropped, framed and shadowed as they appear in the pages file of the document. Rather, these pictures have a shadowed of the frame imposed over the portion of the picture that had been cropped to fit. Unusual problem, I know, but any help in solving this would be greatly appreciated as my deadline is quickly approaching and I can't seem to solve this issue.

    I’ve had a similar problem in Win7.  At first LR 5.3 wouldn’t open PSCS6.  I had to close both programs and reopen them.  And this solved the problem, but LR 5.3 still won’t open PSC6 if it’s not already running as LR 5.2 did.

Maybe you are looking for