Crossover Settings Confusion and Other Questions

Equipment is as follows:
- LG 55-inch 55LH90 LED TV
- Denon AVR-590 A/V Receiver
- Klipsch HD 500 5.1 Speakers
- DirecTV High Def Satellite Receiver/DVR
Long story very short is that I hit a button on the receiver remote about two weeks ago, unknowingly changing the existing audio settings to something along the lines of Matrix or Direct or Stereo.  I'm not one to fool with trying to customize settings on equip. like this... I usually just use the very basic functionality in controlling the equipment, as that's why I paid money 1.5 years ago to have everything professionally installed and calibrated.
Upon accidentally hitting that remote control button, my audio went to pot, was very muffled, volume was minimal, sound was hissy, etc.  Sounded like I was listening to $15 speakers.
Had no idea what had happened, didn't want to fool with trying to figure it out myself, contacted the receiver manufacturer to explain what had happened, they recommended immediately that I reset the receiver and thought the processor had locked up.  Did the reset and that of course unfortunately scrapped all of my custom calibration settings that the installers had configured a year and a half ago.  Sound still not improved.  Recommended that I send the receiver in for repair.  I held off for a few days on doing that and finally found the likely cause / solution on a message board, clicked the same button on the remote that I'd likely clicked by accident a few weeks earlier, and the sound was back to a more normal level.
However, now I'm left without all of those custom calibrations via the Audyssey stuff that was erased, and I'm lost as can be as to how to get our system sounding like it did prior to all of this happening approx. 2 weeks ago.
I'm lost on the crossover frequency settings and what they should be, what the dials on the rear of the subwoofer should be set at, what the crossover settings for the front / center / rear surround speakers should be, etc.
I ran the Audyssey configuration using the supplied microphone that came with the receiver, but the resulting sound just still doesn't sound at all like it did originally after the installers did all of the setup / configuration back in Aug. 2009.
Audyssey sets the crossover levels of my front L/R speakers to 120 HZ.  Audyssey sets the crossover level of my center channel to 110 Hz.  Audyssey sets the crossover levels of my rear L/R surround speakers to 120 Hz.  In what I seem to remember is the "bass management" area of the receiver settings, the crossover for the subwoofer is set at 80 Hz.  I believe another setting for the subwoofer is LFE+Main, too.
With the above in mind, I have no idea at all (1) if the crossover values are appropriate for the various speakers and the subwoofer in the mix to distribute high/mid/low sounds appropriately between the speakers and the sub, (2) I have no idea what the "Level" knob on the rear of the subwoofer should be set to (values range from Min to Max), (3) I have no idea what the LowPass (Hz) knob on the rear of the subwoofer (ranges from 80 to 100) should be set to, and am just very confused / frustrated that with the accidental click of a button on the receiver remote 2 wks. ago and then Denon's tech support recommending the most drastic solution to this issue in resetting the receiver's processor and erasing all of the custom Audyssey settings.  I'm left with very sub-par sound as a result of all of this and can't seem to get the re-run Audyssey calibration routine to get my system back to sounding as phenomenal / balanced as it did for nearly 1.5 years straight after the initial setup / calibration of everything back in Aug. 2009 by the Best Buy professional installers.
Any explanations of what the crossover settings for all of my speakers and subwoofer, knob settings on the rear of the subwoofer should be (in general, mind you, as I know all situations / environments / listening preferences are different), or any other helpful recommendations are GREATLY appreciated.  I'm very frustrated that Denon's tech support didn't first have me see if I had accidentally adjusted the sound properties via the remote via an accidental button click as opposed to taking my receiver back to square one.  I'm not a technical master of this stuff and have no idea what I'm doing wrong in trying to get everything back to sounding like the great system it used to sound like.
Thanks in advance for any clearly-explained suggestions / recommendations on all of this.  My last resort is to contact Best Buy and pay them to come back out to re-calibrate everything themselves if I can't figure out where my calibration settings / adjustments are wrong.

As I said in my first post in your other thread "you changed a setting the receiver and speakers are fine" <- not word for word but close to what I said LOL.  I knew from what you described thats what it had to be.  I do have a  concern about the phase issues and the distance readings but that could be placement of mic or if your speakers are facing straight out instead of being slightly faced inward.  May I ask where did you place the mic and was it on a tripod? I suggest either borrowing or buying a camcorder tripod for this.  I answered your questions below in blue.
 Also before ever doing a reset on any piece of equipment check the internet for some ideas as it could save you a lot of headaches. 
bmccollum wrote: 
Okay... stayed up late last night running through the Audyssey calibration routine.  Took several tries at the calibration routine, as it kept on coming back saying I had phase issues with various speakers (it bounced around between telling me the phase issues were with the Front Left, the Front Right, and the Center Channel).  I just kept on re-running Audyssey until it finally ceased telling me some of the speakers had phasing issues.
Before I continue, I can't thank you enough again for reading through my posts and offering your suggestions... really do appreciate the assistance!
While I'm thinking about it, I determined why the sound qualities / volume / etc. got so poor all of a sudden about 2-3 weeks ago.  I apparently accidentally hit one of the buttons on the receiver remote that changed the sound setup from whatever it had been set on forever to something like "Virtual" or "Direct" or "Stereo" or something like that, as opposed to Dolby Digital or whatever it had been set on forever.  I unfortunately went through the recommended Microprocessor Reset procedure on the receiver per their tech support's recommendation & that's why I lost all of the original Audyssey calibrated settings from August 2009, when all along, I could've just resolved the audio issues if I'd known that I'd accidentally clicked a button on the receiver remote, and had known I just needed to re-click another button to get the audio back to what it was normally set on. Here are the results that were set by the Denon AVR-590 via the Audyssey calibration.  Note:  Before beginning the Audyssey calibration process, I had the volume level knob on the rear of the sub itself turned halfway to the 12 o'clock position, and the LowPass knob on the rear of the sub turned all the way to the right (I believe 160 was the value).  I ultimately turned the volume knob on the rear of the sub to about the 10 o'clock position as I re-ran the Audyysey calibration multiple times, as the dB values being shown for the sub were coming back at - 12.0 db or close to that with the sub volume set at the 12 o'clock position.  The sub dB value got closer to the desired 0 dB value (as shown below) with the sub volume knob set to the 10 o'clock position.
* Speaker Configuration Check    *
- Front Speaker                 Small
- Center Speaker              Small
- Subwoofer                       Yes
- Surround Speaker         Small
- S. Back (Preout)             None
* Distance Check                 *
- Front Left                         0.1 ft                     (this should seemingly be more like 15.0 ft)  is the speaker facing slightly in
- Front Right                       1.3 ft                     (this should seemingly be more like 15.0 ft) "  it should be                             "
- Center                               14.7 ft                   (this seems accurate)
- Subwoofer                       16.3 ft                   (this seems accurate)
- Surround Left                 8.0 ft                     (this seems accurate)
- Surround Right               8.7 ft                     (this seems accurate)
* Channel Level Check            *
- Front Left                         + 12.0 dB  Lower this to about 2 or 3 db below the center channel
- Center                               +  2.5 dB
- Front Right                       + 12.0 dB Lower this to about 2 or 3 db below the center channel
- Surround Right               +  2.0 dB
- Surround Left                 +  2.5 dB
- Subwoofer                       -  2.0 dB
* Crossover Frequency Check      *
- Front                                  60 Hz                    (seems low... not sure...) Set to 80 hz
- Center                               120 Hz                   (seems reasonable... not sure...)you can leave it or set it to 80 hz
- Surround                          150 Hz                   (seems high... not sure...) again leave it  or set it to 120 or 80 hz
- S. Back                               None
Okay, I've made the following minor adjustments thus far post-Audyssey calibration, as noted below:
- SW Mode:                        LFE+Main  set to LFE only
- LPF for LFE:                      120 Hz
- Sub Volume Knob         Left sitting around the 10-11 o'clock position on rear of sub
- LowPass Knob                                Left sitting at max setting to the right on rear of sub (I believe value is 160)
- Front Left                         15.1 ft. is now what I've set the distance chk. at manually, as opposed to 0.1 ft
- Front Right                       15.3 ft. is now what I've set the distance chk. at manually, as opposed to 1.3 ft.
So there we are... ANY additional insight you may have on any of the values I've reported to you and whether or not they seem reasonable or completely out of whack is greatly appreciated.  My main concerns/questions are the various Crossover Freqency values set by Audyssey and whether or not they should likely be manually adjusted by me to better utilize/distribute the sound between the various speakers / sub, and secondly, why/how did Audyssey so incorrectly set the distance of my Front Left & Front Right speakers and was it likely wise of me to have set them to what they should be w/a new distance setting now of around 15 ft. for each of the Front Left and Front Right speakers?
Here are my questions in a nutshell now.  I'm probably overanalyzing things now since having experienced this audio issue a few weeks ago and now I'm prob. hyper-sensitive to all aspects of the home theater sound I have at present.
(1) Why do commercials seem to have expanded sound using all speakers whereas just you plain ol' TV programs seem to use fewer speakers and just mainly the center channel aside from some occasional applause and such coming out of the Front Left and Front Right speakers?
The commercials are most likely broadcast in stereo instead of surround sound.  The receiver will switch from dolby digital to stereo and you won't even notice it except for the sound.
(2) Why would I hit the "STD" button on the receiver remote to choose Dolby Digital vs. when
 to hit the "SIMU" button on the receiver remote to select "5 Channel Stereo" or other options via that "SIMU" button?5 Channel stereo is just that, Its 2 channel stereo being output through all 5 channels.  It is not 5 channel surround.  Standard give you Dolby digital, Prologic II etc.  Simulation gives you 5 channel stereo, Matrix, Hall and the other simulated surrounds. You want to hit the standard button.
(3) On rear of subwoofer, I've set the LowPass knob all the way to the right, assuming that the "LFE +Main" and "LPF for LFE = 120Hz" settings override the LowPass knob on the rear of the sub, therefore having that knob turned all the way to the right to allow the settings for the sub in the receiver itself to control the LowPass / Crossover stuff.  Correct. As long as the sub accepts LFE signals the receiver will send anything lower than 120hz  directly to the sub. If not that is why you are setting it to the highest setting.
(4) With Audyssey Crossover Frequencies set as shown above, are these reasonable/appropriate values to where all speakers are utilized properly for the equipment I have in distributing all low/mid/high frequencies appropriate between the various speakers / sub without audio drops and so forth?  The Crossover Frequency stuff is probably the most confusing part of all of this to me.
Again, I can't thank you enough for your help and any additional recommendations you can make regarding my situation.

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    My basic workflow is capture sharpen Radius 05. / Detail 100, then upsize with Smoother (40, 50, 60, 70 inches...) then do some moderate high pass, then advanced use of unsharp mask (LAB - L channel - or Luminosity - RGB - also blending/blend if sliders for fall off if necessary) then ACR grain simulation (on a seperate layer - not to create grainy photos - but create the illusion of more detail and to camouflage artifacting).  I believe after years of testing and practice this seems to be about as good as it gets for my content.
    Lastly, smart sharpen... I have not used this much, but do you think this workflow might benefit from using it instead of USM (with the more deconvolution - lens blur/more accurate) type of sharpen near the end)?
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    And after blending the images (Auto Blend) we usually just size up (for enlargement) and go.  Now I am thinking that after the focus blending is finished and the file is flattened it might be a good idea to bring that tif file back into ACR and apply a little bit of capture sharpening before the upsize. Does that make sense to you?
    Cheers for your time and feedback!
    Message linebreaks added by: PECourtejoie

    Disclaimer: I did not entirely understand the original post, and maybe some of this does not apply in your multi-step process, so take with salt...
    ACRFREAK wrote:
    With low ISO shots (100) I always try to use the least noise reduction possible in ACR (less is more approach) which means on correctly exposed images ("to the right") on Canon cameras, my ACR settings are often 0 on luminance and 0-5 on color noise.
    At ISO 100, I rarely use any luminance noise reduction, however my experience is that even under ideal circumstances including low ISO, a modicum of color noise reduction is still essential for optimum image quality. - it is almost never desirable to set color noise reduction to zero, IMO - YMMV. (Note: in NX2 - you don't even get a choice about it - (true) color noise reduction will be applied, as Nikon sees fit).
    Note: ACR's color noise reduction algorithm is image adaptive (it's more "aggressive" on higher ISO shots). You shouldn't see much (if any real) detail loss with color noise reduction at 25 on ISO 100 shots, eh?
    ACRFREAK wrote:
    My theory is that I am trying to keep a much of the fine detail as possible. Also the reason I like the 0.5 radius and 100 detail.
    In my opinion, ideally, the sharpen settings should depend on the photo - type, and inherent focus... (.5/100 may be great for ultra-clean, ultra-sharp landscapes, but may not be appropriate for portraits...)
    But different strokes for different folks. (and I don't know what kinds of photos you mainly (or only) shoot).
    Rob

  • New To AE from Motion (FCP) - timeline and other questions (PREVIEW)

    Okay, so like your normal person, I just install and open a template and delve into it seeing what can happen.
    So far, I learned that you need an update for macbook pro (opengl), no problem, downloaded and all is fine.
    However, I did notice something that coming from a Motion POV, I am not used to....
    If I open a template, I notice that the time line plays back about 200 milliseconds or 5 seconds to play about 1 second of video. Is there a way to make it realtime? Also, it seems as if it needs to be rendered when you play back on the timeline (green bar). Is there a way to play in realtime? Surely the newer Macs are fast enough to play back in realtime.
    Last, for now, what is the best training for this application? Lynda.com, books, other video resources?
    Thanks.

    >I think that makes sense since it is going to RAM.
    Yes, it does. To not "loose" the frames, enable the disk cache. This will dump frames that cannot be held in RAM, so they are available for spacebar playback and faster generation of successive RAM previews
    >Nonetheless, regardless of the settings, I could not get it to play in >realtime at all.
    Check the info panel and see if indeed it is as you say. If the issue persists, search this forum. There is tons of things that can screw RT abilities from incorrect graphics card configs to audio or certain QT CoDecs.
    >Surely this can't be the case is it?
    It can. Once more: you are letting your confusion get in the way of seeing things for what they are. AE is a program that still does most of its stuff in software running on the CPU, not your graphics card like it does in Motion. It functions on different principles. Effects have to explicitly be written to use hardware acceleration, which only a limited number of them do and then again, they will revert to software-only mode if you stack a number of effects that exhaust your graphics card resources or combine them with non-accelerated effects.
    This is no different than what happens in Motion when you use a given number of layers with blendmodes, distortion effects etc.. that can no longer be processed in realtime. At that point it actually behaves much worse than AE since it lacks the fallback software routines. It seems, that you just never work with anything remotely complex and thus never have reached that point, which would explain your disappointment and frustrations with AE. If you are not willing to understand the conceptual differences, it will forever be that way.
    I can only once more urge you to not see as a replacement for Motion as a background and title generator, but as a flexible, resolution independent compositing and effects package that does so much more, but at the cost of buying this flexibility with more generalised, software-only routines. You may see this differently and never use AE as deeply as some other people, but this is just how it is.
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    Hello,
    I have an iPod Touch 4th generation with iOS 5.1.1
    1) RE: Sleep Mode - I found this on another thread and it's regarding iOS 4.3.1. 
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    Wi-Fi is always ON with the 4th generation model running 4.3.1 when it is sleeping unless you either turn off the Wi-Fi or turn Airplane mode ON.
    2)  I only use my iPod Touch on my home Wi-Fi and do not use any cloud based syncing or iTunes Wi-Fi Sync.  I do all my syncing manually from my MacBook Pro via USB to the iPod Touch.  The way I do things is purchase what I need from my MacBook Pro via iTunes and then manually sync it to the iPod Touch.  But there may be times, in the future, where I would want to purchase directly from the iPod Touch.
    I recently updated my AppleID with my new email address via my MacBook Pro.  But, I noticed that on my iPod Touch under "Settings" "Store" that it still shows my old AppleID.  I have all Automatic Downloads set to OFF.  How do I update the iPod Touch to reflect my new AppleID?
    3) When I'm using Safari and I navigate to several websites, how do I easily get back to my home page (which is set to Yahoo!)?
    Probably a dumb question but I can't seem to figure it out.  I've set Yahoo! to my homepage but I would think there should be or is (and can't find it) a button/icon like on my MacBook Pro Safari to take me directly back to the homepage.
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    - Unless you use bluetooth, airplane mode and wifi off are the same as regards to battery drain. I like use airplane mode sinc that is directly under Settings.
    - Go to Settngs>Store and sign out of existing account and sign in with the updated one
    - I have no idea for the Safari question

  • Show my visibility on iChat and other questions

    I have done several searches on this site and google's and still have yet to find some of the stuff I am looking for. I figured it was time to post so hopefully someone else will know.
    First is it possible to be logged into iChatav3 and show yourself to individual friends as being online or offline. For example, I have a friend "sam" who I want her to see me online but I want my other friend "joe" to see me as offline, and vice versa.
    Along the same lines, I have a .Mac account, the main member name is the one I use, however, the membership allows you to make other email addresses or profiles? I guess that is what they are called. Is it possible to use one of these to log in. When I try to "log in" that way it doesnt let me do it, do I need a full membership for each account?
    Secondly, is there a way to downgrade to ichat2? I still have my original CD. I am currently running 10.4.2, and I recently bought an iSight. I decided not to move to 10.4.3, but I thought that the update to iChat3 might be of some use. Boy was I wrong. I chat often with someone who uses AIM on a PC, and after i got my iSight, I kept getting the "no response recieved for 10 seconds" failure. We followed just about every tutorial we could find to adjust our settings but no avail. The only thing I can think of is that iChat3 doesnt play well with either 10.4.2 or my friends PC with AIM.
    Lastly, I have seen several sites where they have chatrooms for ichat. Can anyone recommend some good sites?
    Sorry so long and thanks for any help anyone can give.

    First is it possible to be logged into iChatav3 and
    show yourself to individual friends as being online
    or offline. For example, I have a friend "sam" who I
    want her to see me online but I want my other friend
    "joe" to see me as offline, and vice versa.
    Yes; go under iChat > Preferences > Accounts > Security and change the blocking for the people you want to see and don't want to see. There are a number of options there, so choose wisely. My iChat Help Site will explain a few of the options (namely page 2 of my site)
    Along the same lines, I have a .Mac account, the main
    member name is the one I use, however, the membership
    allows you to make other email addresses or profiles?
    I guess that is what they are called. Is it
    possible to use one of these to log in. When I try
    to "log in" that way it doesnt let me do it, do I
    need a full membership for each account?
    .Mac aliases aren't able to log into the AIM network because they aren't associated with AIM in anyway, but rather a feature of .Mac. You don't necessarily need a full/paid subscription to .Mac to use a .Mac name on the AIM network. The free trial screenname with .Mac will stay active even after your trial has expired. Note that this is the ONLY part of the .Mac service that will stay active, though.
    Secondly, is there a way to downgrade to ichat2? I
    still have my original CD. I am currently running
    10.4.2, and I recently bought an iSight. I decided
    not to move to 10.4.3, but I thought that the update
    to iChat3 might be of some use.
    Due to the number of users asking this question, I took a stab at it. I can 100% say that iChat 2 is NOT compatible to be installed on a Tiger-based machine. There's no way short of downgrading to Panther to use iChat 2.
    Lastly, I have seen several sites where they have
    chatrooms for ichat. Can anyone recommend some good
    sites?
    ichatters.com
    ichatfinder.com
    .Mac online Community
    There are of course several others. Doing a Google search will turn up plenty of sites.
    I hope this helps,
    -Ryan

  • RemoteUpdateManager problem... and other questions

    Hi.
    We are trying to evaluate which update solution to use.
    We package the apps with CCP, and the users should never get prompted about updates and they are not able to download/upgrade by them self, and they are not admins on their computers. So far we haven´t implemented any update solution.
    First of all, when i try remoteupdatemanager.exe in an elevated cmd i get the following message:
    RemoteUpdateManager exiting with Return Code (1)
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    6/19/13 08:47:15:738 [INFO]  AAMEE Utilities RemoteUpdateManager  
    06/19/13 08:47:15:738 [INFO]  AAMEE Utilities RemoteUpdateManager   ##################################################
    06/19/13 08:47:15:738 [INFO]  AAMEE Utilities RemoteUpdateManager   ##################################################
    06/19/13 08:47:15:738 [INFO]  AAMEE Utilities RemoteUpdateManager   Launching the RemoteUpdateManager...
    06/19/13 08:47:15:738 [INFO]  AAMEE Utilities RemoteUpdateManager   RemoteUpdateManager version is : 3.1.105.0 (BuildVersion: 3.1; BuildDate: Tue Sep 04 2012 13:58:18 )
    06/19/13 08:47:15:738 [INFO]  AAMEE Utilities RemoteUpdateManager   **************************************************
    06/19/13 08:47:15:738 [INFO]  AAMEE Utilities RemoteUpdateManager   Initializing UpdaterCore Library...
    06/19/13 08:47:15:925 [INFO]  AAMEE Utilities RemoteUpdateManager   UpdaterCore library initialized successfully.
    06/19/13 08:47:15:925 [INFO]  AAMEE Utilities RemoteUpdateManager   **************************************************
    06/19/13 08:47:15:925 [INFO]  AAMEE Utilities RemoteUpdateManager   Starting UpdaterCore CheckForUpdate...
    06/19/13 08:47:17:844 [ERROR]  AAMEE Utilities RemoteUpdateManager   UpdaterCore failed for CFU errorCode(212) curRefId((null)) errorCodeString(U41M1C212)
    06/19/13 08:47:17:844 [INFO]  AAMEE Utilities RemoteUpdateManager   **************************************************
    06/19/13 08:47:17:922 [INFO]  AAMEE Utilities RemoteUpdateManager   ##################################################
    06/19/13 08:47:17:922 [INFO]  AAMEE Utilities RemoteUpdateManager   Ending the RemoteUpdateManager Return Code (1)
    06/19/13 08:47:17:922 [INFO]  AAMEE Utilities RemoteUpdateManager   ##################################################
    06/19/13 08:47:17:922 [INFO]  AAMEE Utilities RemoteUpdateManager   ##################################################
    06/19/13 08:47:17:922 [INFO]  AAMEE Utilities RemoteUpdateManager  
    Anyone have any idea about this error?
    And then to other update quistions. when i read the documentation about how to update i dont really get it.
    1: is one possible solution to package the updates in CCP and then use SCCM to deploy them? i tried to create packages yesterday but the CCP didn´t work so i dont know in what format the updates come in, .exe or .msi and so on.
    2: If we go with the solution of having an Adobe update server on our network, do i then need to repackage all our existing apps which have the config "AUM is disabled" and configure the "use internal update server" or can i push out a config for this?
    3: If we start to use internal update server, if i choose "enable adobe update manager" will then user be able to update themself? We want to handle all of it for the users, is that what "disable adobe update manager" is? i find this very confusing.
    4: Today with our non CC packages (acrobat standard and flash) we are using System Center Updates Publisher to publish acrobat and flash updates to SC Configuration Manager to deploy these updates to the clients the same way we deploy MS updates. Can we use this method for all the CC packages?

    ok, first of all we can skip the RemoteUpdateManager problem. I was running the program as an administrator and the administrator did not have the proxy.pac configured. so this is not a problem for now more then figuring out an account and proxy settings that will work in the background.
    now another problem, i testet to configure AUSST for the first time now, and i get this error after running the command: --root=c:\ausst --fresh
    06/20/13 08:59:26:860 | [INFO] |  | AAMEE | Utilities | AUSST |  |  | 5416 | Item failed C:\AUSST\updates\oobe\aam20\mac\AdobeCaptivate6Core\6.1\setup.dmg.
    06/20/13 08:59:27:048 | [WARN] |  | AAMEE | Utilities | AUSST |  |  | 5416 | Unable to download update file C:\AUSST\updates\oobe\aam20\mac\AdobeCaptivate6Core\6.1\setup.dmg
    06/20/13 08:59:27:048 | [ERROR] |  | AAMEE | Utilities | AUSST |  |  | 5416 | Server not responding.                                   
    06/20/13 08:59:28:062 | [INFO] |  | AAMEE | Utilities | AUSST |  |  | 4448 | Item downloaded C:\AUSST\updates\oobe\aam20\mac\AdobeDreamweaverCS5WS-11.0\11.0.3\.
    06/20/13 08:59:28:093 | [INFO] |  | AAMEE | Utilities | AUSST |  |  | 6728 | Item downloaded C:\AUSST\updates\oobe\aam20\mac\AdobeDreamweaverCS5.5-11.5\11.5.3\.
    06/20/13 08:59:29:107 | [INFO] |  | AAMEE | Utilities | AUSST |  |  | 4916 | Item downloaded C:\AUSST\updates\oobe\aam20\mac\AdobeDirector12_jp\12\.
    06/20/13 08:59:59:777 | [INFO] |  | AAMEE | Utilities | AUSST |  |  | 6728 | Item downloaded C:\AUSST\updates\oobe\aam20\mac\AdobeDreamweaverCS5.5-11.5\11.5.3\.
    06/20/13 09:00:13:786 | [INFO] |  | AAMEE | Utilities | AUSST |  |  | 4448 | Item downloaded C:\AUSST\updates\oobe\aam20\mac\AdobeDreamweaverCS5WS-11.0\11.0.3\.
    06/20/13 09:00:13:786 | [INFO] |  | AAMEE | Utilities | AUSST |  |  | 2968 | Item: C:\AUSST\updates\oobe\aam20\mac\AdobeCaptivate6Core\6.1\
    06/20/13 09:00:13:801 | [INFO] |  | AAMEE | Utilities | AUSST |  |  | 2968 | AdobeUpdateServerSetupTool Returned with code: 5.
    this error came ofter it had processed 967 out of 1022 items
    Why?

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