CRT but LCD

I looked in the system profiler. On the graphics/display screen, I see it label my monitor as a CRT but i'm actually using an LCD. Is there something wrong here? Mostly curious as to why it says CRT instead LCD. Thanks!

hey there Dale,
i'm no Mac genius, nor any kind of computer geek(that's why i have Macs). i have a 20" Cinema Display & a 17" Philips LCD HDTV w/ VGA-in connected to my DP 2.0 G5(v.2) & the Philps is shown as a CRT, i'm running OS 10.3.9, so it's not related only to Tiger. i don't think it's a bug, but because i'm using ADC>VGA adapter Profiler sees it as a CRT not LCD & what's important to me is that it works & works well. are you using a display w/ DVI or VGA?
good luck.

Similar Messages

CRT versus LCD

Per specs, Apple's old 21" Studio Display (graphite-CRT) and their original 22" Cinema Display (M5662-LCD) have the same ppi (85), but I am struck by the difference in display clarity. Both are set at max resolution: CRT-1600x1200 and LCD-1600x1024. For one thing, text in Microsoft Word looks much sharper on the CRT than on the LCD. It seems pixelated on the LCD. Also, images, such as tiffs, look much sharper on the CRT. The same pics are noticeably grainy on the LCD. Why is this?

What you're seeing is normal. CRTs create pixels by aiming 3 guns (Red, Green, and Blue) at the back of the tube, to the same spot some distance at the front of the tube, which is coated by phosphors. Naturally, there's going to be a bit of fuzz that way. There are no pixels hard-wired into the front of the screen itself. That's why all resolution settings look equally sharp on a CRT.
LCDs do have a grid fixed into the screen, creating pixels with naturally hard edges, so they are sharp by nature. That is why only one resolution setting looks right on an LCD and all others look wrong.
Text looks sharper on an LCD because it really is.
The image probably isn't "sharper" on the CRT, it probably looks more natural since normal vision is about continuous tones. The human eye actually has to look for edges and the brain processes for them. On the LCD, the pixels are sharper, but that's not like the real world. (Every image pro knows that you can never take an image from a film or print camera and just print it - every image in every medium that look sharp was carefully sharpened by software.) Also, the LCD thin black grid around every pixel you can see if you look up close. That grid slightly disconnects each pixel and could cause the apparent graininess.
The CRT hid the low resolution of a monitor because everything fuzzed together a little bit. LCDs are brutally honest. It is 85 dpi, and on your LCD now you can see it. Remember, an 85 dpi image is unacceptably low for printing. If future screens continue to use discrete pixels, it will probably take the higher resolution displays like 150+ dpi to make images look more like print again. We are seeing higher resolutions in PC laptops and the iPhone, so it may be on the way. However, one problem is the higher pixel density you have on an LCD the more area the black line grid takes up relative to the screen.

CRT vs Lcd monitoring

Believe me, I've been struggling with this question for years.
For long I felt CRT monitors were better than Lcd monitors for critical color correction. But feeling the current push in Lcd technology, is the acceptance for professional LCd displays such as the JVC 24"HD ok, or do the people with the golden eyes only see the bvm CRT as the only way for critical color grading?
Knowing I usually color 1080 24p.
If you make a good living coloring, I really would appreciate your comments.
- Eric.

Someday I will be done with this question.
CRT technology fails for a number of reasons over a certain display size, and it is for those reasons that the technology is no longer acceptable,both for the technical and economic challenges. At 24", it is almost not worth the justification for HD in any sense, since that technology really only starts pulling away from what went before it at maybe 36" and beyond.
In years past, the JVC LCD's may have been competitive in terms of rendition, but suffered from massive off-angle viewing problems. It is spectacularly difficult to build a decent LCD -- if you find one in a "reasonable" price category, +caveat emptor+ -- its a $38 Rolex.
Some of the recent plasmas are pretty good. Some high-end post facilities are actually using them, but have conditioned them behind LUT-boxes like Truelight's Northlight system, among others, and have a crack staff of technicians on standby with probes in hand -- and do routine daily/weekly checks, lineups and calibrations. Most of the time, its to make sure the monitor is displaying the AIM values of the day for the associated lab, but its also because they just wander, and not just over time, but with the intensity of the picture that happens to be up.
Consumer TVs are for folks at home to kick back and watch Glee or whatever, or ignore it altogether just to have enough noise in the background to cover what's going on in the foreground.
So if you're making video that people don't watch anyway, LCD is great, and doesn't cost very much either.
jPo
jPo

Can switching from CRT to LCD monitors cause system problems?

My 9.1 locks up periodically (but the cursor still moves) since I replaced two 20" CRT monitors with two Samsung 19" LCD monitors. Could this affect the performance of my machine? I've tried everything else to address the freeze problem but recall the issue started when I installed the LCD monitors. Anything I can do?

Studedot,
You may have issues with the amount of video memory depending on the resolutions of the new LCD screens.
I find LCD screens go up to insane resolutions, way more than the corresponding size CRT monitor, ie. a 17in Dell LCD monitor with higher resolution than a 21in CRT.
It shouldn't cause crashes or freezes, but may cause -redraw problems when closing / moving windows in 2D and playing 3D games.

Convert Crt to lcd? Tray to Slot?

I'd like to convert my crt screen inside my allready hacked imac to an lcd. Think it's possible? I've never done something wierd like this. Just added a bigger hard drive, more ram, case fans, and normal stuff like that. It's too heavy and too noisy, and it gets in the way of the heat flow. Besides, I don't like curved screens.
Also, I'd like to know what my odds are of getting some parts from ebay and using them to make this thing a slot loading imac or at least get a cd burner in it.
Please be kind.

It is possible to add an LCD screen, but would cost you around 450 dollars which isnt worth it at all. It is also possible to change it to a slot loader which my friend did a couple years back and it cost him 150 dollars which isnt worth it at all either, back then it was though since it was new technology. Mine as well get a Mac Mini.
Btw, why would you want to change it to a slot loader, they are both CD Drives and everything?
My saying is "If your computer cant use the newest software update (Tiger in this case) decently, you should save for a new computer). That is why I am ordering a MacBook right now.

Crt or lcd?

hello, does anyone know or have experience in which monitor would be better for video and graphics. ive read that crt's are better but ive also read that lcd's now are pretty good (not as good as crt's but gaining fast). any opinions?
thx

While I love crt, and still using eMac with crt 17" monitor as extended instead of my macbook with 19" lcd screen, I must admit that lcd now a day also more easily configured and also displayed "warmth" color as well as the crt.
So the desicion is up to you, just be aware that most of monitor maker already abandon the crt, and also goes their support to obselete crt model.
I bet more and more application was created using lcd monitor or lcd monitor in mind, so why not go there since you are just about getting started.
Good Luck.

CRT With LCD Laptop

I was told that it’s bad to have an up and running CRT monitor in close proximity to an up and running laptop with an LCD display.
Is there any truth to that?
Message was edited by: HappyWarlock

HappyWarlock,
Hmmm. I've never heard this, but I could see where a CRT might adversely affect an LCD with fluorescent backlighting. I don't see the same thing affecting an LED backlit display, though. I'm not entirely certain that there is even a problem with fluorescent displays.
If you have an older, fluorescent backlit display, you might want to look further into this, but I think it might be false.
Scott

Switching from CRT to LCD

I am a print graphic designer in need of a new monitor and ahve been given 3 days to find one. My IT folks are suggesting a Samsung SnycmasterXL24. I am concerned with switching to an LCD from a CRT. I have seen some of the other flat screens the regular staff use in here and am not impressed. I am currently using a ViewSonic G225FB 21 with Matrox Parhelia 128 video card with Pantone color calibration software. I have the speed needed to run the graphics software and get great accuracy of color between my monitor and print. Anyone else out there use this monitor? Any issues with graphics software, video cards and color accuracy? Any input is greatly appreciated. I am running Windows XP.
Thank you for your input,
Laurie

Laurie,
I used a ViewSonic G220f CRT for a number of years, and then switched to a Samsung 213T LCD when my ViewSonic went to monitor heaven.
There are some differences between a CRT and and LCD, but I found the transition to be fairly painless. The Samsung is a good monitor, but there is some light falloff when you get to the edges and the corners, more than with the CRT. Still, it is no big deal, at least to me. I do a lot of fine art printing, and my previous job was as a director of marketing, and I sent a LOT of jobs to press.
LCDs are a little less forgiving if you don't view more or less perpendicular to the screen. But, to me, that is also no big deal. A monitor hood is always a good idea, to prevent ambient lighting from reflecting off the face of the monitor.
FWIW, I found the same calibration parameters worked fine on both monitors. I chose 5200K color temp, 2.2 gamma, and a luminance of 90 cd/m2. My monitor and inkjet proofs were dead ringers, and they matched the proofs I got back from my commercial printer very closely.
The 213T is no longer in production, but the Samsung synchmaster monitors are pretty good for the price. I have also heard good things about the NEC monitors, but haven't tried them. If you have money to burn, there are Eizo, LaCie and other high end LCD monitors. I also drive my monitor with a Matrox Parhelia 128 MB card. Be sure to use the digital connection.
Probably the biggest difference, at least to me, is that sharpening looks a little different on an LCD compared to a CRT. You will just have to get used to that. There is no "Perfect" monitor to print match, so whatever monitor you use, you need to get a feel for it.
Hope some of this helps.
Lou

Display backlight correctly off, but LCD not shut down

Hi, I have a small problem with the 3g. Sometimes after the phone has been in standby for some time I find the LCD on, even if the backlight is correctly off. I wasn't able to correlate the problem with any other app or action.
With "LCD on" I mean that I can see the difference in color between the active area of the pixel and the thin area beween the pixels and external black area (black painted glass I supppose). Th LCD does not display anything particular, just uniform black or with some stripes.
Pressing the home button has always led to the normal iPhone OS, no special problems.
Is the problem known?
I simply would like to have my phone in optimal conditions.
No warranty left, never jailbreaked, no operator lock since the factory.

Sorry,
I did not make my point correctly. I can always see the three regions: pixel area, inactive region, black opaque region (the painted glass). The problem is that after putting the iPhone in standby I see the active pixel region correctly off: it can be identified, but it similar to the inactive one. When the problem shows up I can clearly see the active region more opaque, as it were on but displaying a uniform black. Th fact that is on is confirmed by the stripes I see sometimes: how could they appear, if the LCD were switched off?

Heelp!! my iPad fell it can sync but lcd wont turn back on

My ipad 1 fell and i tried to click the home button and the power button for about 10 seconds and it didnt work.
so I tried to connect it to my mac. It can sync but then the lcd won't turn on (it doesnt have any crack).

Press and hold on the power button only for about 15 to 20 secs and lets see what happens. When you connected to the pc it should have shown the apple sign while syncing. If it didn't then you could be possibly looking at a damaged screen. Also try charging and powering on at the same time. All the best.

Canon Power Shot A300 powers up, but LCD says "No Image" is camera broken ?

Canon power Shot A300 powers uo, but screen says No Image. Has new AA bateries, SD card, etc...Looks new.
Is the camera just broken ?
Thank you,
Pete Hallock
Santa Maria, California

Napapete3,
When this is displayed on the LCD, that means there are no images on the card. I noticed that you mentioned using an SD card.
Do you actually have the PowerShot A3000 or do you have the original PowerShot A300?
If this is a time sensitive-matter, additional support options are available at Contact Us.
Did this answer your question? Please click the Accept as Solution button so that others may find the answer as well.

Replace CRT with LCD

Hi every one . I have looked at the conversion to a LCD from the eMac CRT . i was thinking Could i remove the CRT and just run a LCD off the external monitor port ? or will the computer not work if the CRT is taken out ?

I take it that the repair isn't going well then?
Have a look at this page for running an eMac with two LCD monitors - http://www.lbodnar.dsl.pipex.com/eServer/ .. specifically the bit that says parts of the monitor are required for power up of the system..

24" LCD AND 19" CRT. Any problem?

Hi,
My current set up is two dual 19" CRTs and the ATI 9800 256MB card.
I want to move up to a widescreen LCD, but am aware of a couple limitations with a 24" LCD.
These being:
1. You have more screen real estate with two 19" than with one 24".
2. CRT is supposedly a better image.
So, my thinking is to move up to a 24"LCD and keep one of my 19" CRTs active as a 2nd/palette monitor. that way I get more screen real estate, and a nice CRT handy if needed.
Can anyone tell me if I'd get eye-strain or headache or something from switching my eyes back and forth from a CRT to LCD?
Any reason I wouldn't want a dual monitor set up where one is LCD and one is CRT?
Thanks very much
G5 Dual 1.8 2GB RAM Mac OS X (10.4.8)

Accidental damage is not covered under the warranty - it is a limited manufacturer's warranty only, not insurance.
If you live near an Apple Store, call the store and ask or make an appointment there to confirm if only the glass panel needs to be replaced, if the store does that, and how much.

Help needed with DisplayConfigX for Philips 32PW9551/12 CRT TV

Hi everyone,
I've been following this part of Apple Discussions closely for some time now, and I realise that I'm not the only one having trouble connecting my Mac Mini (Core Duo) to my TV. I'm hoping that BSteely or somebody else here could take a look at my specific problem. I'll try to provide as much relevant info as I can, if more input is needed, please specify.
Here goes :
TV model : Philips 32PW9551/12 That's a CRT, but with HDMI input. The manual says that it should accept 480p, 576p, 720p and 1080i.
Cable : DVI-HDMI
Using VNC over Airport when things go wrong, resetting back to the original resolutions.
Problem : can't get 720p resolution to work, only 640x480 fills screen. 640x480 is too low, since Remote Buddy's menu does not even fit on it.
When I select 1280x720 the image is on the left of the TV, leaving a wide black bar on the right and dropping a lot on the right. Other resolutions either don't work at all, are seriously overscanned (no dock, no menu) or are horrible to look at.
I've been fiddling with DisplayConfigX and SwitchResX, but I feel it's out of my league, so I'm not getting anywhere. I did export settings via SwitchResX, I hope that provides some insights.
Thank you very much in advance for helping me get my setup to work by creating a tailormade timing !
Kind regards,
Also Starring
Belgium
DDC block report generated by SwitchResX for display
PhilipsTV
0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 A B C D E F
0 | 00 FF FF FF FF FF FF 00 41 0C 51 95 01 01 01 01
1 | 06 10 01 03 80 42 25 78 0A 0D C9 A0 57 47 98 27
2 | 12 48 4C 20 00 00 01 01 01 01 01 01 01 01 01 01
3 | 01 01 01 01 01 01 01 1D 80 D0 72 1C 16 20 10 2C
4 | 25 80 94 72 21 00 00 9E 01 1D 00 72 51 D0 1E 20
5 | 6E 28 55 00 94 72 21 00 00 1E 00 00 00 FD 00 31
6 | 3D 1C 2E 08 00 0A 20 20 20 20 20 20 00 00 00 FC
7 | 00 4C 30 36 48 44 20 76 31 20 31 36 3A 39 01 29
Valid DDC block: checksum passed
EDID Version........1.3
Manufacturer........PHL
Product Code........20885 (5195) (9551)
Serial Number.......16843009
Manufactured........Week 6 of year 2006
Max H Size..........66 cm
Max V Size..........37 cm
Gamma...............2.20
DPMS Supported Features:
Display type:
RGB color display
Input signal & sync:
Digital
Color info:
Red x = 0.625 Green x = 0.280 Blue x = 0.155 White x = 0.283
Red y = 0.340 Green y = 0.595 Blue y = 0.070 White y = 0.298
Established Timings:
640 x 480 @ 60Hz
Manufacturer Reserved Timings:
Standard Timing Identification:
Monitor Description blocks:
Descriptor #0 is Timing definition:
Mode = 1920 x 540 @ 50Hz
H. Active...............1920 pixels
H. Blanking.............720 pixels
V. Active...............540 lines
V. Blanking.............22 lines
HSync Offset............528 pixels
HSync Pulse Width.......44 pixels
VSync Offset............2 lines
VSync Pulse Width.......5 lines
Pixel Clock.............74.25MHz
Horizontal freq.........28.12kHz
Vertical freq...........50.04Hz
H Image Size............660mm
V Image Size............370mm
H Border................0 pixels
V Border................0 lines
Interlaced
Sync: Digital separate with
* Positive vertical polarity
* Positive horizontal polarity
Descriptor #1 is Timing definition:
Mode = 1280 x 720 @ 60Hz
H. Active...............1280 pixels
H. Blanking.............370 pixels
V. Active...............720 lines
V. Blanking.............30 lines
HSync Offset............110 pixels
HSync Pulse Width.......40 pixels
VSync Offset............5 lines
VSync Pulse Width.......5 lines
Pixel Clock.............74.25MHz
Horizontal freq.........45.00kHz
Vertical freq...........60.00Hz
H Image Size............660mm
V Image Size............370mm
H Border................0 pixels
V Border................0 lines
Non-Interlaced
Sync: Digital separate with
* Positive vertical polarity
* Positive horizontal polarity
Descriptor #2 is Monitor limits:
Horizontal frequency range.......28-46 kHz
Vertical frequency range.........49-61 Hz
Maximum bandwidth unspecified
Descriptor #3 is Monitor name:
L06HD v1 16:9
Mini Intel Core Duo Mac OS X (10.4.8)

(1280x594 60Hz NTSC) gives fairly stable
image, big black border on
top, fallen off image on the left but right and
bottom seem ok.
You might want to run with that and see if you can dial it in better. SwitchRes X has arrows you can use in the right-hand side of the custom pane where you can try and center and size the image better.
Another thing. I don't seem to be able to enter the
pixel clock number exactly as you specify. It keeps
changing it slightly. Eg, after rebooting, it says
68,4 in SRX, even though I entered 69,75 before...
This is explained in the SRX documentation. When you make a request of the hardware that it somehow can't satisfy, it just tries to do the next closest thing. But you don't get and feedback of what the hardware can and cannot do. You only get unexpected results as you have mentioned.
And also, should the vertical scan rate not be
exactly 60 Hz ? Other numbers don't seem to be
accepted by the TV, but when making custom timings,
these scan rate numbers seem to be changing all the
time.
If you look at the EDID data you posted at the begining of this thread, towards the bottom it states that your TV will work from with any vertical frequency in the range of 49Hz to 61Hz. You don't need to use 60Hz but that is a standard. There is very little downside to deviating from that with and LCD display.

DVD looks great on CRT... awful on Plasma

Is it possible to write video to a DVD that will look good on both CRT and Plasma/LCD televisions?
When burning a recent video (24pA, anamorphic, SD) to DVD, the result looks fantastic on an old 13-inch CRT I have, but it looks absolutely awful on my 37-inch plasma. Pixelation, graininess, and other unwanted digital elements show up on the plasma but not at all on the CRT. I've upped the bit rate and double checked all other Compressor settings as per recommendations from several other threads and the Compressor Help Manual, but the result is always the same: GREAT quality (for SD) on CRT... HORRIBLE quality on Plasma.
General advice when editing video in FCP is to view your canvas on a CRT monitor. Now that CRT is on the way out (if not out already), is it wiser to stay within the digital realm and avoid CRT altogether?
I can't be sure what the viewing medium for the DVD will be on the other end when I send it out, so I'd like it to be universally good on CRT, Plasma/LCD television and computer monitors.
Thank you!

Do you mean pixelated, or do you mean that you are seeing combing artifacts?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Deinterlacing#FieldCombinationDeinterlacing
The Apple DVD player does not deinterlace unless it is set to. And then it is not deinterlacing in the manner that gives you results similar to watching it on a CRT. When watching on a CRT, you are seeing 60 fields a second. To do that properly on the progressive display of your computer, the software would need to do a bob deinterlace, giving 60 complete frames a second. But the Apple DVD Player does not do that, so the motion looks wrong if you are looking at video rather than film.
You could try opening the same disc in VLC, and then select Deinterlace:bob from the video menu. I'm guessing it will look better.
For your plasma, it might be the same problem. Perhaps your DVD player has a setting involving progressive output or deinterlacing, and it is doing it wrong.

CRT but LCD

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