Current iMac won't stop listening to remotes.

I recently upgraded from a late 09 iMac to the current Thunderbolt equipped iMac. My computer lives in the same room as my Apple TV. So first time that I went to use my Apple TV my iMac started responding and I cannot get it to not respond to the remote control that is paired with the Apple TV. I am stuck with using the remote app on my iPhone or iPad, quite annoying.
So I have disabled the infrared receiver and paired the computer with a different remote, neither of these changes took effect. As far as I am concerned, the disabling of the remote control infrared receiver should in fact disable the receiver. Since it did not, I though that perhaps I could just pair it to another remote and thus block the communication but again nothing changed.
At this point it seems like a bug and it is one that was not present with 10.6.7 on a late 2009 iMac, this leads me to believe it is the iMac that is having the issue.
Any assistance from the community would be helpful.

There are some conflicts with the new Candelair driver if that applies.
If this is the case, just go to the candelair prefpanel and disable the IR receiver there.
Regards,
Captfred

Similar Messages

  • My 21.5 inch 2010 iMac won't stop crashing and rebooting when I put in my 8GB 1 piece Kingston RAMstick

    I have the 21.5 inch 2010 iMac and I bought this Kingston 8GB 1 piece Ramstick (http://www.amazon.com/Kingston-Technology-1333MHz-KTA-MB1333-8G/dp/B007TGZ4UY/re f=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1401114006&sr=8-7&keywords=iMac+1333Mhz+RAM) and when I put it in my Mac, and I start up my Mac, it crashes and reboots itself. Then it happens over and over again. No matter what I do. Anyone have a solution?

    If it is Kingston ValueRAM, that product has been troublesome since Intel Macs were introduced in 2006.
    Look to Crucial or OtherWorld Computing (macsales.com).

  • IMac Won't Stop "Talking"

    Hi - my one year old daughter recently got a hold of my keyboard and pressed who knows what. Now my iMac reads out loud every command I click or letter I type. Does anyone know how to shut this feature off?
    Thanks!

    Go to System Preferences +Universal Access+ pane Seeing tab. Turn OFF the VoiceOver feature. Probably got turned ON using the keyboard shortcut, Command-F5

  • IMac won't stop beeping

    For some reason today the iMac just started beep ... beep ... beep continuously. Is this a hardware issue that needs repair? Or is this something that can be done on my own?
    Thanks.

    Without a doubt a hardware issue. If you upgraded your RAM it may be failed RAM. This is an older code list but it may help:
    1 beep = no RAM installed
    2 beeps = incompatible RAM types
    3 beeps = no good banks
    4 beeps = no good boot images in the boot ROM (and/or bad sys config block)
    5 beeps = processor is not usable

  • Fan won't stop on my iMac

    I have a 2011 iMac (21.5") and the fan won't stop running at full blast. I've spoken with Applecare support, and done all the steps... Which were:
    1) SMC reset - performed three times
    2) PRAM reset
    3) Left the computer off overnight
    4) Checked activity monitor - Nothing is open, and the actual activity monitor was the process taking up the most CPU, which was only 2%.
    5) My hard drive is nowhere NEAR full - I still have 400GB/500GB available.
    The computer functions properly, but the fan is just going non-stop. What could the issue be? I will definitely have to bring this in to the genius bar, but this is my father's computer and he isn't available during business hours to take this in. Does anyone know what this could be? Thanks for the help.

    Try running the Extended Apple Hardware Test to see if it has a hardware (thermal sensor or SMC) problem. It won't fix the problem, but it may help you understand and guide the service tech to the problem.

  • My iMac won't boot past grey screen and it didn't come with a os x disk

    My iMac won't boot past grey screen with apple. I've tried booting in safemode but that didn't help and my iMac didn't come with a os x disk.

    Take each of these steps that you haven't already tried. Stop when the problem is resolved.
    Step 1
    The first step in dealing with a startup failure is to secure the data. If you want to preserve the contents of the startup drive, and you don't already have at least one current backup, you must try to back up now, before you do anything else. It may or may not be possible. If you don't care about the data that has changed since the last backup, you can skip this step.   
    There are several ways to back up a Mac that is unable to start. You need an external hard drive to hold the backup data.
         a. Start up from the Recovery partition, or from a local Time Machine backup volume (option key at startup.) When the OS X Utilities screen appears, launch Disk Utility and follow the instructions in this support article, under “Instructions for backing up to an external hard disk via Disk Utility.”
    b. If you have access to a working Mac, and both it and the non-working Mac have FireWire or Thunderbolt ports, start the non-working Mac in target disk mode. Use the working Mac to copy the data to another drive. This technique won't work with USB, Ethernet, Wi-Fi, or Bluetooth.
    c. If the internal drive of the non-working Mac is user-replaceable, remove it and mount it in an external enclosure or drive dock. Use another Mac to copy the data.
    Step 2
    If the startup process stops at a blank gray screen with no Apple logo or spinning "daisy wheel," then the startup volume may be full. If you had previously seen warnings of low disk space, this is almost certainly the case. You might be able to start up in safe mode even though you can't start up normally. Otherwise, start up from an external drive, or else use either of the techniques in Steps 1b and 1c to mount the internal drive and delete some files. According to Apple documentation, you need at least 9 GB of available space on the startup volume (as shown in the Finder Info window) for normal operation.
    Step 3
    Sometimes a startup failure can be resolved by resetting the NVRAM.
    Step 4
    If you use a wireless keyboard, trackpad, or mouse, replace or recharge the batteries. The battery level shown in the Bluetooth menu item may not be accurate.
    Step 5
    If there's a built-in optical drive, a disc may be stuck in it. Follow these instructions to eject it.
    Step 6
    Press and hold the power button until the power shuts off. Disconnect all wired peripherals except those needed to start up, and remove all aftermarket expansion cards. Use a different keyboard and/or mouse, if those devices are wired. If you can start up now, one of the devices you disconnected, or a combination of them, is causing the problem. Finding out which one is a process of elimination.
    Step 7
    If you've started from an external storage device, make sure that the internal startup volume is selected in the Startup Disk pane of System Preferences.
    Start up in safe mode. Note: If FileVault is enabled, or if a firmware password is set, or if the startup volume is a Fusion Drive or a software RAID, you can’t do this. Post for further instructions.
    Safe mode is much slower to start and run than normal, and some things won’t work at all, including wireless networking on certain Macs.
    The login screen appears even if you usually log in automatically. You must know the login password in order to log in. If you’ve forgotten the password, you will need to reset it before you begin.
    When you start up in safe mode, it's normal to see a dark gray progress bar on a light gray background. If the progress bar gets stuck for more than a few minutes, or if the system shuts down automatically while the progress bar is displayed, the startup volume is corrupt and the drive is probably malfunctioning. In that case, go to Step 10. If you ever have another problem with the drive, replace it immediately.
    If you can start and log in in safe mode, empty the Trash, and then open the Finder Info window on the startup volume ("Macintosh HD," unless you gave it a different name.) Check that you have at least 9 GB of available space, as shown in the window. If you don't, copy as many files as necessary to another volume (not another folder on the same volume) and delete the originals. Deletion isn't complete until you empty the Trash again. Do this until the available space is more than 9 GB. Then restart as usual (i.e., not in safe mode.)
    If the startup process hangs again, the problem is likely caused by a third-party system modification that you installed. Post for further instructions.
    Step 8
    Launch Disk Utility in Recovery mode (see Step 1.) Select the startup volume, then run Repair Disk. If any problems are found, repeat until clear. If Disk Utility reports that the volume can't be repaired, the drive has malfunctioned and should be replaced. You might choose to tolerate one such malfunction in the life of the drive. In that case, erase the volume and restore from a backup. If the same thing ever happens again, replace the drive immediately.
    This is one of the rare situations in which you should also run Repair Permissions, ignoring the false warnings it may produce. Look for the line "Permissions repair complete" at the end of the output. Then restart as usual.
    Step 9
    Reinstall the OS. If the Mac was upgraded from an older version of OS X, you’ll need the Apple ID and password you used to upgrade.
    Step 10
    Do as in Step 9, but this time erase the startup volume in Disk Utility before installing. The system should automatically restart into the Setup Assistant. Follow the prompts to transfer the data from a Time Machine or other backup.
    Step 11
    This step applies only to models that have a logic-board ("PRAM") battery: all Mac Pro's and some others (not current models.) Both desktop and portable Macs used to have such a battery. The logic-board battery, if there is one, is separate from the main battery of a portable. A dead logic-board battery can cause a startup failure. Typically the failure will be preceded by loss of the settings for the startup disk and system clock. See the user manual for replacement instructions. You may have to take the machine to a service provider to have the battery replaced.
    Step 12
    If you get this far, you're probably dealing with a hardware fault. Make a "Genius" appointment at an Apple Store, or go to another authorized service provider.

  • It won't stop - the amount to back up keeps going up

    Hi all,
    I set up Time Machine a few days ago and it worked flawlessly until this morning. I noticed a small (a few mail messages and some internet history) backup had taken over half an hour and STILL said "finishing," so I stopped it. Then, I clicked "back up now" to see if it would work. The icon won't stop spinning and it keeps saying it's almost done (like, 5GB of 5GB), but the number keeps going up. Two minutes from now, it'll say "6GB of 6GB."
    I downloaded TMBuddy, and here's my log for the current backup:
    Starting standard backup
    Backing up to: /Volumes/Time Machine/Backups.backupdb
    Error: (-1426) Applying backup protections to /Volumes/Time Machine/Backups.backupdb/Emily’s iMac/2009-02-11-070829.inProgress/F2DA6283-F643-42F6-A1F2-11A5B3401F87
    No pre-backup thinning needed: 100.0 MB requested (including padding), 346.10 GB available
    There's an error.... I'm thinking that's the problem? What should I do?
    By the way, my apologies if this question has already been asked and/or answered - I'm in a hurry this morning and wanted to get this posted.

    Thank you for the reply.
    I got home from school at 2 and checked the computer - it still said "finishing backup." Saw your post, changed the name, and restarted. I clicked "backup now" about an hour ago. The backup started at 19.2MB, and right now it's at 36.0GB. Kind of nervous... Here's the log for the current backup:
    Starting standard backup
    Backing up to: /Volumes/Time Machine/Backups.backupdb
    Reloading changed Time Machine preferences
    No pre-backup thinning needed: 100.0 MB requested (including padding), 348.11 GB available

  • Text won't stop deleting, delete key appears to get "stuck"

    Sorry if this is in the wrong topic, I have never used the support forums for any of the multitude of problems I have had with my Mac, but this one is severe and odd enough that I couldn't even find anyone else discussing it (although I'm sure someone is, but I tried many search key combinations on Google and only found unrelated things), so I decided to at least get it documented.
    I have had an issue that has happened at least 3 times I can remember (I am fairly certain it has happened more, closer to 7-8, those are just the times I am 100% confident about), although very spaced apart and infrequent, where my delete/backspace key seems to get "stuck". However, at least one time I can verify that I never even hit the key. Whatever text I currently have open immediately starts deleting at lightspeed, and I can do nothing to stop it. None of the other keys on my keyboard work, and though my mouse works, if I click somewhere else, it starts deleting the text there. When I force it to go to another window where there isn't an open text box, I get the general Mac error sound, and it repeats non-stop, and faster than I've ever heard it. I have to do a hard shut-down, although once it led to a kernal panic. When I have stopped whatever is happening before it panics though, when I restart, I don't receive any kind of error message, nor the message about OS X not having been shut down properly.
    Every single time it has happened when I was typing something that couldn't be saved, like a message on a forum, a private message on a site or an IM chat window. Sometimes I lost a half hour's worth of work or more.
    The first time it happened, I honestly thought someone had managed to hack into my computer, but another time I was using a physical modem and Airport was turned off, and when I ripped out the cord, it didn't stop.
    I have a MacBook Pro from 2007, running the most recent version of Tiger. I haven't had the money to upgrade. All security updates are up-to-date, with one exception: I have not upgraded to the most recent version of iTunes.
    Honestly, I currently am having and have been having a bunch of other severe issues with my Mac, so troubleshooting will be quite difficult as it's not at all impossible it's a result of one of my other problems. I also currently am dealing with some health problems that make me unable to try to find the root of the problem, specifically I have a problem with my hand and wrist that makes typing very difficult.
    If someone does recognize this issue and already knows why it might be happening, I'd appreciate the help. I'd also appreciate anyone letting me know how I can prevent it OR what to do when it begins and how to stop it. But I probably will be unable to go through a typical troubleshooting rundown.
    As I said, I just wanted this documented, and I also would like to know if anyone else has had this problem. I have never experienced an issue like this with any of my past computers, including Macs and PCs. I do know however that the key is NOT physically getting stuck - as in getting lodged down and continuing to be pressed. There is at least 1 time I can verify I never even hit the key (I wasn't typing anything at the time). I am fairly sure the problem is entirely unrelated to the actual delete key itself.
    I'll describe the symptoms one more time:
    At a random time, with no discernible warning, text contained in whatever text box I have open begins deleting itself. Several paragraphs disappear in a matter of seconds.
    Pressing escape or any other key on the keyboard does nothing. If I click to another area in the text, it will immediately begin deleting wherever I have placed the cursor. If I go to another window with text that can be edited, it begins deleting there. It does not delete in more than one place simultaneously.
    If I bring another window without any kind of "deletable" text to the front, one of the general Mac error sounds (I'm not sure which one it is) starts happening and repeats without stopping at a rate that could induce a seizure. To stop it all, the only thing I have found can be done is a hard shut-down. Another time it continued to end in a kernal panic. I wish I had the details of the error, but it was so long ago and I have no idea which panic is the right one in the logs.
    I have no way of knowing what programs were running at the time, as obviously that's not something I'm able to pay attention to when it happens, and it has happened so randomly and infrequently it's nothing I've been able to document. Since I have to restart to make it stop, I've then lost that info and I have no time to try to write it down or something beforehand.
    I have not had any similar issues that I know of (for instance, for the "g" key keeps repeating and won't stop typing "g's") and I've never experienced this on any past computer.
    Thanks for anyone who can help!
    If you aren't able to offer advice but have had this issue yourself, PLEASE let me know. I can't seem to find anyone who has experienced this particular problem.

    "Cleaning the keyboard is the first step in troubleshooting sticky/stuck keys."
    Okay, I guess I misunderstood, although I am still confused. You're saying that since the other user did an extensive clean of their keyboard and this did not solve the problem, it is "most likely" a hardware problem, correct? Wouldn't a thorough cleaning without any results show that it's probably not physically related to the keyboard?
    "The "delete" key may be defective or the cover you are using somehow is making the key stick. If you have ruled out the latter and everything else, your only other alternative is to take the MBP to your local Apple Store or AASP. The staff will check out your keyboard (free) to confirm if you are having a hardware problem. If you have AppleCare or ProCare, the repairs will be free. If not.................."
    Well, I had just said in my most recent post that it has now happened with other keys, and in my initial post that it happened at times when my hands were nowhere near the keyboard. It is not a defective delete key and the cover is not making the keys stick - it doesn't adhere to them and does not have any sticky substance on it of any kind. I am an experienced computer user, and I know my computer very well. While I am not a psychic that can always know what is causing a problem, I am able to discern with much accuracy what is NOT causing it.
    Also, I have significant health issues so getting to an Apple store would be a huge challenge for me. And although I have AppleCare any repairs won't be free. Due to some small physical damage my laptop obtained a few years ago, I have been completely refused almost all service that I paid over $300 for, even though the damage is completely superficial. After fighting this, I was told they WOULD repair my computer, however, they would also repair the physical damage despite my insisting NOT to; I had no choice in the matter and the cost would be a minimum of $1,500 (I also would not be informed the exact price until after and my credit card would be charged without my knowledge - I had to give them my credit card number and sign away their right to make any charges and when I requested being contacted before they charged me for the repairs I didn't want done, I was told they did not do that). My family is struggling to pay for my $5 medications.
    When my logic board died (that same issue that affected thousands of computer users), I had to print out Apple's report from their site, which stated that they would replace and repair them free of charge to ANY Mac owner with a computer that met certain qualifications (which mine did). When it happened, completely out of nowhere, I knew immediately that was the problem, yet still had to go through the insulting and idiotic "Is your computer plugged in?" list of things and a customer WITH AppleCare was being refused a service they'd offered to people WITHOUT AppleCare, for a known manufacturing defect that has occurred widely in nearly every brand of computer made.

  • Streaming audio data won't stop unless I turn off the phone for 5 minutes.

    I have been testing the Curve 8330 regarding streaming audio from an icecast server. The address of the station is http://www.AirProgressive.org, click on "listen". (I have already run this by the icecast experts and they say it is a Blackberry "bug")
    BLACKBERRY USERS! PLEASE BE AWARE THAT THE STREAM (dataflow) DOES NOT STOP WHEN YOU CLICK "STOP" ON THE MEDIA PLAYER! (and will continue for as long as you leave it on, and even if you turn off your BB for less than 5 Minutes.) I'm not sure if you are charged for these streams, but it seems that the battery is depleted rapidly if this continues without aborting it. See details of my testing below:
    > Access icecast stream by clicking on the link on the website:
         http://www.airprogressive.org:8000/stream.m3u
    > Stream consists of mp3 at 32kbps / 22050 Hz.
    > Stock media player launches, stops at "Do you want to open or save the item."
        > No connections started yet (viewing "List Clients" page of icecast admin interface).
    > Click "open", stream begins playing.
    > Two connections are started instead of just one, always offset by 2 seconds.
        -- but sometimes only one connection starts.
    > FYI, Icecast config: <client-timeout>30</client-timeout>
    Here is the output from the "List Clients" page of Icecast2 Admin
    IP
    Seconds Connected
    User Agent
    Action
    68.7.238.55
    406
    WinampMPEG/5.62, Ultravox/2.1
    Kick
    74.82.68.16
    6
    Mozilla/4.8 [en] (Windows NT 5.0; U)
    Kick
    74.82.68.16
    4
    Mozilla/4.8 [en] (Windows NT 5.0; U)
    Kick
    Note the last two entries with the same IP address. This is the Blackberry. Top entry is winamp player on PC for reference. Don't know why two listener connections are generated.
    > Stream is "Stopped" (i.e. click stop)
    > Stream is restarted (i.e. click Play)
    > A new connection is started, this time with a new +1 IP address.
    IP
    Seconds Connected
    User Agent
    Action
    68.7.238.55
    687
    WinampMPEG/5.62, Ultravox/2.1
    Kick
    74.82.68.16
    287
    Mozilla/4.8 [en] (Windows NT 5.0; U)
    Kick
    74.82.68.16
    285
    Mozilla/4.8 [en] (Windows NT 5.0; U)
    Kick
    74.82.68.17
    8
    Mozilla/4.8 [en] (Windows NT 5.0; U)
    Kick
    I can understand that the player may continue to communicate when "stopped" to fill the lookahead buffer, but when it is restarted, it should use the same connection and not start a new one.
    > Click Stop.
    > Click Play.
    IP
    Seconds Connected
    User Agent
    Action
    68.7.238.55
    803
    WinampMPEG/5.62, Ultravox/2.1
    Kick
    74.82.68.16
    403
    Mozilla/4.8 [en] (Windows NT 5.0; U)
    Kick
    74.82.68.16
    401
    Mozilla/4.8 [en] (Windows NT 5.0; U)
    Kick
    74.82.68.17
    124
    Mozilla/4.8 [en] (Windows NT 5.0; U)
    Kick
    74.82.68.18
    24
    Mozilla/4.8 [en] (Windows NT 5.0; U)
    Kick
    > Yet another connection is started with a new "listener".
    > Click "back" to exit from browser in Blackberry.
    > All threads continue.
        --> I have tested this many times and the threads continue without being cleaned up indefinitely, even though the player is stopped and the stream is not "playing" on the handset.
    > Turn off mobile network. Handset not communicating.
    > Threads continue
    > Handheld turned off.
    IP
    Seconds Connected
    User Agent
    Action
    68.7.238.55
    995
    WinampMPEG/5.62, Ultravox/2.1
    Kick
    74.82.68.16
    595
    Mozilla/4.8 [en] (Windows NT 5.0; U)
    Kick
    74.82.68.16
    593
    Mozilla/4.8 [en] (Windows NT 5.0; U)
    Kick
    74.82.68.17
    316
    Mozilla/4.8 [en] (Windows NT 5.0; U)
    Kick
    74.82.68.18
    216
    Mozilla/4.8 [en] (Windows NT 5.0; U)
    Kick
    Finally, after over 300 seconds, the threads are finally cleaned up.
    IP
    Seconds Connected
    User Agent
    Action
    68.7.238.55
    1139
    WinampMPEG/5.62, Ultravox/2.1
    Kick
    So, to stop the streaming server from communicating with the Blackberry handset, you must either turn it off or disable mobile network for at least 5 minutes.
    It appears that the handset continues to transfer data (and therefore incur charges, if the user does not have an unlimited data plan) if the handset is not turned off or mobile network disabled for at least five minutes. It also runs down the battery much faster because the radio transmitter is actively being used, even if the user is not listening to the stream.
    The Blackberry network has intervening servers that continue to receive data from the streaming server even if the handset is off. This behavior likely has utility to deal with the realities of the cellphone network, to allow the stream to be transferred from one cell to another, and deal with the possibility that the handset may be out of range for up to 5 minutes without "interruption." However, it is hard to turn off the stream.
    QUESTIONS:
    1. Is there a way to stop this sort of behavior using a configuration setting or something? It seems particularly stupid to start a new stream connection each time a STOP/START cycle is completed, allowing the old connections to continue streaming data (even if the data does not make it to the handset).
    2. IS IT TRUE that the user will be "charged" for the data streams that are not disconnected?
    3. Is there a way for a developer to send a signal to the intervening cellphone network to discontinue the orphan streams?
    THANKS!!

    No, I'm using something like this :
    to start...
                       channel = new SoundChannel();
                                            soundPlay = new Sound();
                                            urlReq=new URLRequest;
                                            urlReq.url=mylUrl;  // url of radio mp3
                                            soundPlay.load(urlReq);
                       channel = soundPlay.play();
    to stop it...
                          channel.stop();
                          channel=null;
                          try{soundPlay.close();} catch (e:Error) {} // error or not, the sream won't stop.
    Any idea ? Did you try with a NetStream object ?
    Bernard

  • IMac won't accept blu-ray discs

    My iMac won't accept a blu-ray disc when I insert it - the iMac spits it back out after about 10 to 15 seconds. I then tried a normal DVD and the iMac accepted it and started playing it almost immediately. Is it not possible to play blu-ray discs on an iMac or Powerbook? Are there any fixes?

    Hi guys,
    I in the same situation as Seattle Oz, in that I am thinking of buying an iMac and would like to use it to produce high-definition videos. I currently use a Sony VAIO VGN -- A R21S which has a Blu-ray disk drive. I am told that with the use of Roxio Toast, I can burn to a Blu-ray disc but cannot play it. I find it pretty incredible that a product that is renowned for video editing and allows you to produce a Blu-ray disc doesn't actually have the facility to play it! However that being the case, what does anyone else do, to produce HD quality videos and how do they export them, if not by Blu-ray disc. I would also like to know what format the output is in, when it is burned onto the Blu-ray disc.

  • Set end jump to stop, still won't stop...

    I have a 20 minute dvd program with no menus that is set to play upon insertion. Set chapter 1 end jump to stop - didn't stop. Added a chapter 2 marker in black at the end of the program and set its end jump to stop - still won't stop. Read the other threads that suggest I do what I've already done. Tried both in simulator and burned discs and played in my DVD player -- program just keeps looping. Thanks for any help...

    Personally, I wouldn't put the end jump on the marker - I would set it for the track. You can end jump to a script if you need, which simply reads:
    Exit
    (which I guess is what you are already doing). However, if you are putting an end-jump on a marker, make sure it is not placed at the very end of the track. If you have a marker just on the section of black, then set the end jump of the marker before to go to your script. This earlier marker finishes where the next marker starts, so you should exit before the black section.
    If you exit in this manner, then pressing play on the remote should re-start the disc from the beginning again, but the track should not loop. Are you seeing the loop on a software or hardware player?
    It is, as you say, a simple task. I cannot get the track to loop if I end jump to an exit script, so I am not at all sure why you would be seeing this behaviour.

  • CS3 for iMac won't install

    CS3 for iMac won't get past the "Application" disc. Installer calls for "Disc 1 to continue" but there is no such disc. Only "Application" and "Content" and neither of them will continue install

    You can download the trial version of the software thru the page linked below and then use your current serial number to activate it.
    Be sure to follow the steps outlined in the Note: Very Important Instructions section on the download pages at this site and have cookies enabled in your browser or else the download will not work properly.
    CS3 and CS4:
    http://prodesigntools.com/download-adobe-cs4-and-cs3-free-trials-here.html

  • Forms process won't stop after closing the browser

    I am running the Forms (904) in the application server. When I close the browser, the forms process (on the server) ifweb90.exe won't stop on the server.
    Is there a message that can be catched when the browser is closed? thanks.
    I am running the forms on XP.

    Hi,
    the forms processes on the middle tier will stop when the listener servlet recognises that the client applet doesn´t exist anymore.
    The amount of time the listener servlet needs to recognize that the client applet doesn´t exist anymore depends on the "heartbeat" and the "timeout" Parameters configured in the formsweb.cfg Configuration File of the Oracle Webforms Installation.
    Normally you don´t have to worry about these parameters their default values will fit the most environments.
    regards

  • When I click "share" icon for Facebook, ensuing popup windw unstable. pops up then gone, cyclically,won't stop until I close originating tab/website. can't post FB unless use Safari. Mac OS 10.6.8. Tried to post pic wouldn't work

    When I click "share" icon for Facebook, ensuing popup windw unstable. pops up then gone, cyclically,won't stop until I close originating tab/website.pop up blocker off & in safe mode. can't post FB unless use Safari. Mac OS 10.6.8. Tried to post pic wouldn't work

    O.k. Thanks for the clarification. I poked around in my TimeCapsule router's settings (TimeCapsule is an Apple Airport Extreme router with attached hard drive for wireless backup/storage). Unfortunately, it doesn't look like I can disable multicasting with the TimeCapsule. I can change the multicasting 'rate'. Settings are Low, Medium, High. It's currently set to Low.
    I did a few web searches, and found an Apple.com article: <http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3789?viewlocale=en_US> which explained how to disable Bonjour Service Advertisements. I believe this is the same thing as 'Multicasting'. The process is a modification of "/System/Library/LaunchDaemons/com.apple.mDNSResponder.plist", and a restart of the Mac is required afterwards.
    I'm a bit concerned that disabling multicasting will interfere with my AppleTVs and iTunes music sharing, but I may try it next time I'm up for a computer workout. This task will require editing of system preference files, could require multiple restarts, might interfere with my AppleTVs, could interfere with my iTunes file sharing, doesn't have a documented relationship to my problem.
    This is way to difficult for something that should just work. Did you say you had read something about a relationship between this bonjour multicasting and smb connectivity? If it was online could you post the link?
    I'm currently able to connect to the drive using NFS, but I have to manually configure that connection each time I reboot (can't get the 'Disk Utility' configured to do it automatically). While it's working with NFS, it's not my preferred connect method (for various reasons).

  • Imac won't stay connected to wireless network

    I recently moved and now my imac won't stay connected to my wireless network. Every other device connects just fine, so it's not the service, or the location, because devices are all in the same room.
    Every time my computer goes to sleep it seems to completely forget how to connect to the internet. There is only one Network (mine) listed in preferred networks. The computer will connect only if I go to System Preferences and run through the Network Diagnostics to tell it exactly what to connect to. Each time it says my connection and internet are fine, which I know.
    Please someone tell me how to get it to remember my network so I can stop going through the Diagnostics every time I want to use my internet.

    Though all of these steps may or may not be needed, I'm including them all.
    Make a New Location, Using network locations in Mac OS X ...
    http://support.apple.com/kb/HT2712
    10.5, 10.6, 10.7 & 10.8…
    System Preferences>Network, top of window>Locations>Edit Locations, little plus icon, give it a name.
    10.5.x/10.6.x/10.7.x/10.8.x instructions...
    System Preferences>Network, click on the little gear at the bottom next to the + & - icons, (unlock lock first if locked), choose Set Service Order.
    The interface that connects to the Internet should be dragged to the top of the list.
    If using Wifi/Airport...
    Instead of joining your Network from the list, click the WiFi icon at the top, and click join other network. Fill in everything as needed.
    For 10.5/10.6/10.7/10.8, System Preferences>Network, unlock the lock if need be, highlight the Interface you use to connect to Internet, click on the advanced button, click on the DNS tab, click on the little plus icon, then add these numbers...
    208.67.222.222
    208.67.220.220
    (There may be better or faster DNS numbers in your area, but these should be a good test).
    Click OK.
    If that doesn't work try changing channels on your Router.

Maybe you are looking for

  • Will my HP Officejet Pro 8500 Wireless work with the new Mac OS Lion

    Will my HP Officejet Pro 8500 Wireless work with the new Mac OS Lion

  • Problem when installing oracle 10g on RHEL-4

    greetings, i have been trying to install oracle 10g on my linux machine for the past 10 days, everytimje i do all the steps and change the kernel parameters but when i start the runinstaller file. i get the folloeing error. I don't know what this err

  • Week 15 MacBook Pro?

    Over the last few weeks, I have had my 2.0 7200rpm MBP repaired - the logic board and inverter were replaced. The replacement inverter corrected the screen buzz when adjusting the screen brightness, but the replacement logic board also had the CPU hi

  • ADF Navigation List  and View Links . any tutorial for this subject ?

    Hi Its two day that i am looking in oracle web site and tutorials that are provided in oracled ADF books. but i can not figure it out how i can user a Navigation List , view Link to insert record in a child table. so far i just could create a page th

  • How do I unsubscribe from an ical calendar

    I just subscribed as an experiment to an ical calendar. I can find no information anywhere(!) in ical help or (so far) online as to how to unsubscribe. Please help