Cursor of mouse keeps on dropping out of application

Hi - I have a macbook pro with OS X 10.9.4 . Since 2 nights ago when I type in mail or in a browser every 10 seconds my mouse drops. Therefore I am typing and then I have to click in the space again to continue typing. It is as if the mouse decides to exit the application every 10 to 20 seconds and then I need to click on the application again to continue typing. Although it exists the application, it isn't entering another application or the desktop. I use a bluetooth apple keyboard and a magic mouse. I disabled the keyboard and the magic mouse and switched off the bluetooth and used the inbuilt keyboard and trackpad and the same happened. I can't seem to find settings that causes this problem and it is hugely frustrating

Please read this whole message before doing anything.
This procedure is a test, not a solution. Don’t be disappointed when you find that nothing has changed after you complete it.
Step 1
The purpose of this step is to determine whether the problem is localized to your user account.
Enable guest logins* and log in as Guest. Don't use the Safari-only “Guest User” login created by “Find My Mac.”
While logged in as Guest, you won’t have access to any of your documents or settings. Applications will behave as if you were running them for the first time. Don’t be alarmed by this behavior; it’s normal. If you need any passwords or other personal data in order to complete the test, memorize, print, or write them down before you begin.
Test while logged in as Guest. Same problem?
After testing, log out of the guest account and, in your own account, disable it if you wish. Any files you created in the guest account will be deleted automatically when you log out of it.
*Note: If you’ve activated “Find My Mac” or FileVault, then you can’t enable the Guest account. The “Guest User” login created by “Find My Mac” is not the same. Create a new account in which to test, and delete it, including its home folder, after testing.
Step 2
The purpose of this step is to determine whether the problem is caused by third-party system modifications that load automatically at startup or login, by a peripheral device, by a font conflict, or by corruption of the file system or of certain system caches.
Please take this step regardless of the results of Step 1.
Disconnect all wired peripherals except those needed for the test, and remove all aftermarket expansion cards, if applicable. Start up in safe mode and log in to the account with the problem. You must hold down the shift key twice: once when you turn on the computer, and again when you log in.
Note: If FileVault is enabled, or if a firmware password is set, or if the startup volume is a Fusion Drive or a software RAID, you can’t do this. Ask for further instructions.
Safe mode is much slower to start up and run than normal, with limited graphics performance, and some things won’t work at all, including sound output and Wi-Fi on certain models. The next normal startup may also be somewhat slow.
The login screen appears even if you usually log in automatically. You must know your login password in order to log in. If you’ve forgotten the password, you will need to reset it before you begin.
Test while in safe mode. Same problem?
After testing, restart as usual (not in safe mode) and verify that you still have the problem. Post the results of Steps 1 and 2.

Similar Messages

  • TS1843 I have a third party router, my IMAC keeps on dropping out when used wirelessly,  I also have a laptop ,printer and ipod, I dont loose connectivity with them.  My IMAC sits right next to the router, no problems when hardwired.  need suggestions.  t

    my imac keeps on dropping out of the wireless network,  when hardwired i have no problem.  I also have a laptop,printer and ipod, all of which work fine.  need advice or suggestion.

    HI Paco, a couple of things to try to start with...
    Change the Channel on the Router.
    Make a New Location, Using network locations in Mac OS X ...
    http://support.apple.com/kb/HT2712

  • Having installed OS Lion on Macpro which is about 5 years old the Wifi keeps on dropping out

    Having installed Lion OS on 5 year old MacBook Pro the wifi keeps on dropping out All other devices iPad iPhone and another MacBook Pro on the same network have no problems with wireless network

    "everytime i connect my MBP in my US robotics Router which is around 5-6 yrs old router"
    Get a new router.

  • Bluetooth mouse & keyboard driver drop out

    Having trouble with mighty mouse and apple bluetooth keyboard dropping out periodicaly, when using windows XP. Track pad & keyboard on MacBook still work ok. Window pops up saying USB device not connected. When looking in bluetooth devices in control panel the bluetooth drivers, keyboard and mouse are missing. After short period everything comes back again. It will do this randomly and not at any specific times, even when the computer is not being used.

    Can anyone help???

  • When in googlemail firefox keeps connecting dropping out and reconnecting,and crashing.

    When in googlemail inbox, Firefox constantly keeps dropping out and reconnecting,(as seen in the tab) and often crashes when one is writing or sending a message.

    Try to start Firefox with the about:blank page by creating a copy of the current Firefox desktop shortcut and add a space and <b>-url "about:blank"</b> to the target field.
    Try to delete the sessionstore.js file in the Firefox profile folder to prevent restoring the crashed session.
    *C:\Users\&lt;user&gt;\AppData\Roaming\Mozilla\Firefox\Profiles\&lt;profile&gt;\
    *http://kb.mozillazine.org/Profile_folder_-_Firefox
    The "AppData" folder in Windows Vista and later Window 7+ versions and the "Application Data" folder in XP/Win2K are hidden folders.
    *http://kb.mozillazine.org/Show_hidden_files_and_folders

  • Magic Mouse Regular Drop Out

    My mouse is dropping off bluetooth regularly.
    I've timed it to a 13 second dropout then on for 60 seconds, repeated ad-nauseaum.
    It is NOT loose batteries and I have just cleaned the contacts, it drops out when it's not being touched.
    *** is going on?

    I purchased a magic mouse in January 2015 and it worked fine until I replaced the batteries and then it began dropping out.
    The mouse was shipped with Duracell batteries and I replaced them with Eveready Super Heavy Duty batteries. My problem with dropping out began almost immediately. The shortcoming with the magic mouse is that the either the spring tension on the battery contacts isn't strong enough or their length of travel is limited so movement or jarring of the mouse can cause drop out.
    The issue is that an AA battery isn't an AA battery isn't an AA battery. I measured a Duracell AA battery as having a length of 50.65mm and the Eveready battery that I replaced it with having a length of 49.65mm, one whole millimetre shorter. On reverting back to using Duracell batteries my dropout problem has disappeared. Simple!

  • Airport Extreme n drop outs

    hello to everyone...
    i have read on this forum about airport drop outs and seem to be a victim too. have tried a few solutions but nothing seems to work and i am very disappointed since my new wireless setup wont work.
    The setup:
    iMac intel 2.16 in office room.
    macbook air in the living room
    apple tv in the bedroom
    airport express connected to an adsl modem and an airport express in the living room to extend the signal and airtune to the hi-fi.
    both the airports are brand new with the latest firmware. Macs and atv all run the latest OS.
    but i keep having drop outs from the extreme. ahhh, on the extreme i have a usb disk connected not that it makes any difference.
    so i tried the network without any security but i still have drop outs.
    i have another 4 networks which i see with istumbler but all on different channels.
    the drop outs are random and they seem to be worse when my wife is on the computer which makes things even worse (if u know what i mean....)
    any solutions and ideas will be much appreciated.
    my next move will be to switch off the express and have the extreme only to see if it makes any difference.
    thanx.

    Same problem here.
    My configuration is 1 Time Capsule, 2 Airport Express (n) (connected to 2 pairs of speakers in the house) and 1 MacBook Pro and 1 PC, everything is using N speed. (However, I suppose that when my iPhone connects to our wireless network, too, that it would reduce the entire network speed down from N to G? Is that right? Anyway, the drop-outs occur with or without iPhone.)
    I tried having the two Airport Express on the network only as clients, and now set up as a WDS, but it does not seem to make any difference.
    I also have now switched off the Time Machine backups to the TC, because that increases the number of AirTunes music drop outs.
    I noticed in the Airport Utility that you can monitor the signal strength, see this PNG file:
    http://www.vrolik.net/wifi.png
    The brown line is my MacBook Pro streaming music to the network, and the peaks in that line occur exactly when I experience music drop outs. Can anyone tell me what this means?

  • LCP Down/Internet dropping out.

    Keep getting drop outs on my Internet. Logs on the router say
    Mon, 2011-11-14 13:28:31 - LCP down.
    Mon, 2011-11-14 13:28:32 - Initialize LCP.
    Mon, 2011-11-14 13:28:32 - LCP is allowed to come up.
    Mon, 2011-11-14 13:28:38 - CHAP authentication success
    As i can see it only disconnects for a couple of seconds everytime. Now i have a open fault with BT, but they keep ringing me back telling me it's fixed when it isn't. They re-open the fault, but tell me they want to get an engineer into my house and charge me. The fault is 100% not my problem. Happens on two totally different/make of routers. All wires have been changed and new filters put in. 

    Hi Welcome to the forums
    If you post the full stats from your router
    For homehub – type 192.168.1.254 into your browser
    Navigate to ADSL Settings or use the A-Z at the top right of the home page and scroll down to ADSL Settings and click on it
    Click on More Details and then post the full results.
    also post the full results from http://speedtester.bt.com/
    or http://bt.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/9354/c/346,4740,5520 and post the results .
    Have you tried the quiet line test? - dial 17070 option 2 - should hear nothing - best done with a corded phone. if cordless phone you may hear a 'dull hum' which is normal
    also you could try the hints given by poster RogerB in this link they may help http://community.bt.com/t5/BB-in-Home/Poor-Broadband-speed/m-p/14217#M8397
    Then someone here may be able to help and offer more advice.
    This is a customer to customer self help forum the only BT presence here are the forum moderators
    If you want to say thanks for a helpful answer,please click on the Ratings star on the left-hand side If the reply answers your question then please mark as ’Mark as Accepted Solution’

  • Why does my imac mouse keep dropping out?

    My bluetooth mouse on my iMac keeps dropping out even though it has relatively new batteries. Is there any hope for it?

    Sometimes making a Bluetooth device a favourite can help. It fixed it for me when I had exactly the same problem:
    System Preferences>Bluetooth, select the mouse on the left and then click on the small 'cog' at the bottom left of the window and select 'Show more info'. You should now get the option to make the mouse a 'favourite'.
    I've also seen it suggested on here that adding a small piece of thin card/paper to where the batteries are can make them more secure and stop them breaking contact with the terminals. Not tried this one myself as I didn't need to.

  • TS3048 magic mouse keeps dropping out

    The mouse keeps droping out of teh 2004 imac and teh 2007 mac book pro.  will re-establish with trouble.  works for a bit and drops out or disconnects again.  logitech cheapy works perfectly.  no trouble with the key pad at the moment.  batteries new and at 100%  any ideas or is it dead after two years?

    After a period of enforced rest such as you describe it is likely that any soiling that was present at the point of packing it away, would have set more rigidly.   Your Mouse needs a thorough clean, Inside battery compartment, the contacts, battery terminals, sensor, mouse pad, the lot.    This document gives other hints and tips too.    Pay particular attention to any environmental changes like repositioning of electronic items.   Preferably insert new, good quality batteries.
    The replacement cost for a Magic mouse is around £50 ($69, I believe).

  • IMac G5 iSight and the new Magic Mouse - WiFi dropping out.

    The G5 with iSight seems to be unique amongst Apple computers, in that it shares the WiFi with the Bluetooth on a single compound card. I have not tested this out completely but it certainly seems to be the case that the Magic Mouse when left, having finished a session on the iMac, will after a few hours 'power down'. When it does so, sharing the WiFi, it will disable the wireless communication. I can find no known settings to avoid this from happening.
    If I had dropped my iMac into sleep mode and woken it with a click of the mouse, all would be fine, however with my G5 downloading a file in the background, to come back and find the wireless has 'dropped out' is disconcerting to say the least.
    Usually the WiFi can be re-established by turning it off and on again, then re finding my router (a TC in the other room) and all is well again for another 'period of time', which I can only guesstimate to be a couple of hours. However occasionally I will have to 'Restart' the iMac to get back to a working system. This is something I only ever really have to do with my work PC; I have NEVER had to do this on the iMac before. This is a quaint but annoying Windows thing and should not occur on a Mac. (This last phrase is slightly tongue in cheek!).
    The WiFi link to my work PC via the TC is never compromised, which pointed the finger to the new magic mouse. I run the last version of Leopard for the PPC processors, 10.5.8 and have loaded the magic mouse driver software.
    Has anyone else seen this happen?
    Has anyone else got a solution, other than not using the Magic Mouse?

    I did not see resetting PRAM mentioned yet, so if not done already, do that
    http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1379
    plus this procedure to reset SMU (power management)
    http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1767
    Be sure to follow it precisely. When you reconnect the power cord, if you are using a crowded or old power strip, connect it directly to a wall outlet for this test. Power it up with nothing connected except power cord and once it starts up, connect only your keyboard/mouse (no other USB/FireWire peripherals). Try using it that way to see if the problem still recurs.
    The only other suggestion I have is, if you have a external FireWire drive that you can erase (or create a small partition on), install a fresh Leopard installation on it. Start up from it and see if this problem still recurs.
    Alternately, back up your data, erase (re-partition and reformat) the interal drive, and reinstall Leopard on the internal drive, then give it a try. If you clone (using Carbon Copy Cloner or SuperDuper) to an external FireWire drive as your backup, you can still boot from your current installation (on the external drive). If the fresh installation test does NOT work, you can clone your clone back to the internal drive. If it does work with a fresh installation, you can keep using it and transfer just your user data back from the clone.

  • I bought a WRT320N Linksys router and keeps dropping out

    I bought a Linksys WRT320N Router about 2 weeks ago. I am very upset that I did not take time to do my home work before I got screwed. I brought the router home and connected it. I am pretty familiar with networking these routers, I had the thing connected for about an hour, everything going good and then my wireless dropped out, my son started complaining he could not get his playstation 3 to work over the net, and then I did a speed test for the internet speed. I got 1 MB/s (Normally I am pegging around 30 MB/s, which is like flying, at least for me.) I was waiting for about 40-60 seconds for my homepage to come up. Disconnected my router from the computer and plugged direct into the modem and found I was still pegging 30 MB/s. Plugged back into the router and sure enough I was at 1 MB/s.I reset the router and charged on. The next day, same thing. So I called Linksys and told them what was going on. Well for one, the person on the other end of the line did not know about routers, I do not think she could even pronounce router if she tried. I spent 1.5 hours on the phone with her. After it was all done and over with her reply was " When it happens again, call us" . Oh yea, I want to spend another hour on the phone going through reset this, reset that. I already have done that.
              Anyway, I got on this post and looked up my router thinking you guys may have better ideas than linksys, and of course you did. I read that these routers are overheating. So I connected a fan to the bottom of the router and I have air being sucked through the router cooling it down. So far it works okay. I went 1 week and 2 days before I had to reset. I connected a themometer to the case of the router and what did you know without the fan the router was running around 100 degrees F, the router was hanging in the air so it had plenty of ventilation. If the case is 100 deg. F, the insides must be frying. When I have the fan running the temperature of the case stays at room temperature or just a degree above. It must work some because I was going from resetting everyday to resetting every 1.5 weeks. I will keep you apprised of how the router is doing. I just have to say, Never again will I buy a linksys product. I will buy another brand until the engineers at linksys can figure out how to correct the router they have out there.
    (Mod note: Edited for guideline compliance. Thank you.)
    Message Edited by Vince_02 on 04-24-2009 12:18 PM

    It is not possible that all WRT320N Wireless router's would act same, maybe the router you bought went bad, you should replace the router with the same model and that should resolve all your issues...

  • Iphoto keeps dropping out. Sometimes other programs do too such as Software Update. They other programs seem to drop randomly but iPhoto drops out constantly. Is there a solution?

    iPhoto constantly keeps dropping out. Other programs do at times but iPhoto drops out constantly. Does anyone know what causes this?

    Apply the two fixes below in order as needed:
    Fix #1
    Launch iPhoto with the Command+Option keys held down and rebuild the library.
    Select the options identified in the screenshot. 
    Fix #2
    Using iPhoto Library Manager  to Rebuild Your iPhoto Library
    Download iPhoto Library Manager and launch.
    Click on the Add Library button, navigate to your Home/Pictures folder and select your iPhoto Library folder.
    Now that the library is listed in the left hand pane of iPLM, click on your library and go to the Library ➙ Rebuild Library menu option
    In the next  window name the new library and select the location you want it to be placed.
    Click on the Create button.
    Note: This creates a new library based on the LIbraryData.xml file in the library and will recover Events, Albums, keywords, titles and comments but not books, calendars or slideshows. The original library will be left untouched for further attempts at fixing the problem or in case the rebuilt library is not satisfactory.
    OT

  • 3G connection keeps dropping out after 4.2.1 update

    Hi, I'm wondering if anyone could help me.
    I have the iPhone 4, and it was working perfectly... until I upgraded to iOS 4.2.1.
    Ever since then, my 3G connection keeps dropping out, and I'm just left with vodafone UK (with usually 3-4 bar signal) but no 'o', 'E' or '3G' symbol.
    After about 20 minutes of no cellular data, I'd get the 'o' symbol, then 10 seconds later it would change to '3G'. But then after 5 seconds it would lose it. The cycle would continue in this way.
    Strangely, when at home, the 3G would stay connected. But when I go anywhere, I lose 3G.
    When I turn 3G off, I get constant 'o' connection where ever I go. It doesn't drop out.
    I've tried resetting the phone, and resetting network settings.
    Does anyone have any ideas?
    Thanks.

    I'm having a similar issue with my new iPhone 4 (w/ 4.2.1)... It continually cycles through the following sequence:
    AT&T / 3G
    AT&T / No Data
    Searching…
    Searching… 3G
    AT&T / 3G
    (loops…)
    Here is a video of the cycling. Note the iPhone 4 is just sitting on a coffee table in my house.
    http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7186070/ip4fw421searching.mov
    Also worth noting, I just got the iPhone 4 and I updated it to 4.2.1 right away. Previously, I had a 3GS which did not exhibit any of this behavior in the same location in my house. Also, my girlfriend still has a 3GS and has FW 4.2.1 without these issues. I have a video of her phone in the exact same location taken just after the clip above and her phone maintains 3-bars / AT&T / 3G the entire time.
    I picked up the iPhone 4 while out of state over the holiday weekend and did not observe any of these connectivity issues, in fact the 3G throughput of the iPhone 4 was significantly better (consistently got >4 Mbps down / >800 Kbps up) than what my family members were seeing with their 3GS models.
    I believe it is a baseband issue introduced with the 4.2.1 update for iPhone 4, but I also strongly believe there is some tower component to this problem (ie, software revision at the tower or configuration).
    Like others here, I also performed a restore to 4.2.1 through iTunes and setup my phone as "New" and I continue to see the behavior. The phone is unusable in my house unless I manually disable 3G. As a final data point, when I'm able to maintain a 3G connection long enough in my house I get the following throughput from Speedtest.net: 1863 Kbps down / 543 Kbps up.

  • External HDD keeps dropping out (without ejecting itself) ~ due to 1 bad partition

    Hi,
    As stated above, my faithful WD 1TB MyPassport HDD keeps dropping out by itself, ie. icon disappears from my desktop and I get left with a 'eject before disconnect...' message.
    At first it would appear to be a cable/USB/corrupt disk issue, BUT..........this is only happening since I tried to delete a partition using DiskUtility, (I have 2 partitions, I'll refer to the one I was trying to delete 'Partition1'), halfway through this  my Mac froze. I'm using a macbookpro[Alu][intel][OSX10.8.4] and an iMac[10.8.4 again].
    Symptoms....
    1. On reset I found that Partition1 showed up in gray in DiskUtility, but not on the desktop.
    2. Partition2 shows up fine, on desktop and in DiskUtility.
    3. After a minute or so both partitions dissappear and I get my familiar 'you should have ejected' message.
    All I want to do now is repair the permissions, verify the disk or delete Partition1...but because the drive keeps disappearing I'm a bit stuck. If I can just get the data from Partition2 before it all drops out then I can cope with binning the rest of the drive.
    I've tried....
    1. different equipment [cables, different macs (macbook and iMac), hubs and USB ports]
    2. using DiskArbitrator to allow the drive to stay connected
    3. using KeepDriveSpinning for the same reason
    4. smashing my head against a brick wall
    Please help....
    Thanks in advance,
    Grant
    Str0ke5

    It certainly may be. I do not trust Western digital external drives. I've have several of them fail and it was not the physical drive that failed it was the enclosure electronics. Once I removed the physical drive from the WD enclosure and connect it with a IDE/SATA to USB adapter the actual drives were fine and I'm still using all of them.
    It also might be your Mac as these WD Passport drives are USB powered and Mac's are notorious for not putting out enough power on the USB ports to complete power up some of these type drives. There are numerous thread on how a warning will come up thjat the USB port has been disabled because something it drawing to much power from it. And that is with nothing at all connected to any of the USB ports.
    Only way to test it to take the drive out of the WD enclosure and use one of those IDE/SATA to USB adapters and see if the same thing happens.

Maybe you are looking for

  • URGENT HELP WITH N97

    I cannot update my N97. The current firmware is V 12.0.024 I have tried everything that I know how to. Also I cannot update or download the new Ovi Maps for my phone as well. Please help me with this. Solved! Go to Solution.

  • Dynamic call to Function module.

    Hi In one of the program, we have found a FM ' rfc_update_taxes_doc', and which does not has any code, but what i think that this Fm is called dynamically from some prog and is calling external system. As it has 'targt server' in importing parameters

  • Outlook Calendar Synchronization Failed

    I'm a desktop tech at my local hospital and I have a doctor that cannot sync his Palm Treo 680 with his outlook calendar anymore after his profile was rebuilt.. I've been trying to get this syncronization to work for over a week now =(.. to no avail.

  • Macbook pro won't reboot after installing lion

    After installing Lion on a 2007 MacBook pro, it won't reboot.  Just gets to the gray screen with the spinning wheel.  Have tried re-installing and disk repair to no avail.  Anyone else figured out how to fix?

  • How to disable smb network drive failure to connect warning

    Hey, we have a number of users using os x machines to connect on our domain, all of them have network drives configured via connect to server option smb://etc/etc When the user is docked into the network they login just fine, obviously if they are no