D300 and RAW color in Aperture 2

I just got my new D300, and ran it through its first shoot Saturday. When I went to import into Aperture 2, the processed files were nasty washed versions of their NEF parents. I opened Capture NX and all of the color was there in the NEF file. I opened Lightroom, and everything looked fine, rich saturated images. In Aperture the color was all washed out.
The only thing I can think of is that Aperture is running in a different color space than sRGB, and whatever the color space that the program is working in is washing the NEF files color away. But I couldn't find a menu setting for color space, so I don't know if that's true. Or the program imposes limits on crazy color saturation (no program should ever do this).
Any ideas? Anyone else experiencing this? I finished the job in Lightroom without a problem (great color tools, I was genuinely impressed), so I'm wondering if my Aperture days are numbered.

I am having exactly the opposite problem here and it is most confusing!
I normally shoot RAW and I had been planning to use Aperture as my RAW conversion tool of choice when I noticed that Aperture does not deal properly with Chromatic Aberration on files from my Nikon D300. (I posted on this on the forum and it was interesting that we did not hear back from Appple on this).
So today I shot JPEG's for a quick edit to file to the client tonight and all the images are over saturated! I pulled up the same file on the same screen in Photoshop, put them side by side and the image looks fine in PS and rubbish in Aperture! I checked the image in Capture NX and also in Preview - all the colour match apart from in Aperture. What is going on? Aperture seems to have no colour management option as part of its workflow. I have checked the "preferences" and there is nothing there - I have no control over my image! Its a shocker! What do I do?
Again, if Apple are really planning to pitch this software at the pro market, they need to do some serious work on their colour management and RAW conversion. These are the bedrock of pro shooting these days and with out them, Aperture is just another archiving software. I have not tried Lightroom, but I wonder if this will fare any better?
Andy

Similar Messages

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    Message was edited by: NemesysSoft
    Message was edited by: NemesysSoft

    NemesysSoft wrote:
    Hmm... well, why would I want to buy a separate card reader, pull the card from my D300, put it in the reader, get it read, put it out of the reader and put it back in the D300?
    typically photographers carry and shoot with multiple cards and then use card readers to get the photos into aperture
    Because Apple screwed up their latest raw bundle? I'd rather not take the card out of my D300.
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    that's your choice, we're just trying to help u out.
    a fw800 card reader will be much faster importing than the camera,
    if the camera settings changed at least you'll be able to get your photos into aperture.
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  • Hello! I'm using Aperture with Efex plugins and notice, what when I saving result in plugin and go back to aperture, preview mode is going to grey color and not working until I reboot Aperture. Did you saw this problem?

    Hello! I'm using Aperture with Efex plugins and notice, what when I saving result in plugin and go back to aperture, preview mode is going to grey color and not working until I reboot Aperture. What is intresting - in full screen mode everything works fine. Did you saw this problem?

    It seems there's a workaround here:
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  • Aperture 3.4.1 and raw 4 update installed now many of my D700 and D800E raw files are turning in to unsupported file format?

    Only happens if the file is opened for editing and not to all files. Pictures are visible in the browser. No issuses with Aperture prior to upgrade. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

    leonieDF
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    Regards
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  • Jpg and raw suffix not appearing on filename in aperture 3.4

    Using macbook pro running mountain lion and aperture 3.4.5.  org and jpg suffixes not displayed on filenames on jpg and raw pairs imported from olympus omd em-5.  in addition the suffixes not displayed on older images previously imported from other cameras.
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    Have you ever seen the file name extension shown as part of a Metadata Overlay?
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  • Is the MacBook Air recommended for working with RAW photographs using Aperture or Lightroom and perhaps Photoshop?

    Is the MacBook Air recommended for working with RAW photographs in Aperture and Photoshop, or do I need a more powerful MacBook ?   The relative lack of weight of the AIr is what attracts me to it.

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  • Viewing RAW images in Aperture

    I cannot find a similar discussion so I'll post this.
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    Chris,
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    Léonie
    Added:
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    Is your scrambled mess red and blue? Have you perhaps enabled "View > Highlight hot and Cold areas" or "onscreen proofing" with an unsuitable color profile?
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  • Is there any way to invert raw images in Aperture.

    I am "scanning" a lot of old slides and negatives with a SLR camera using an old professional slide duplicator.
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    The solution would be to be able to do the inversion from negative to positive image i full raw quality inside Aperture.
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    There is not.  Inversion is more a rewrite than an adjustment -- best done between the scan and importing, imho.
    See this link for further suggestions:
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  • RAW conversion with Aperture

    Has anyone compared the quality of RAW conversion of Aperture vs. Nikon Capture as well as other converters?
    I really like the quality of nikon capture and would not want to purchase aperture unless the conversion was at least equivalent.
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    I've compared Aperture's conversion side by side with Adobe Camera Raw's. My method was to do some conversions with Camera Raw and save the result along with the RAW file. Then, in the Apple Store, I performed the conversions using Aperture.
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  • Bug exposed when comparing Jpeg and RAW Photos taken with Canon 20D?

    I'm using iPhoto 7.1 to manage my photos. My Digital SLR, the Canon 20D, can be set to save photos as both RAW (CR2 files) and Jpeg (JPG files). Both of these files can be imported into iPhoto with no problem.
    The problem that I have is that these photos that should be identical, have two major discrepancies.
    1. Their resolution are NOT the same. (3504x2332 for CR2, 3504x2336 for JPG)
    2. The colors appear different (CR2 appears reddish, JPG appears normal)
    Interesting to note: if I export the same CR2 file out of the iPhoto library (export it as Kind='original'), and open it with IrfanView running on Windows 2000, the photo is viewed with the expected resolution of 3504x2336 and the color appears normal (i.e. not reddish).
    I'm a new Mac user, and relatively new to digital photography, so any advice or suggestions would be appreciated! I've heard of color profiles and adjustments, but I'm not sure how that works. Perhaps I could be pointed to a HOWTO type document?
    Cheers

    OK, next RAW files again.
    These hold the data the sensor 'saw' when you took the shot together with 'metadata' such as aperture, shutter speed, white balance settings, ISO setting etc - lots of data in fact.
    Most programs do not alter RAW files at all - they are the digital negative and should not be altered.
    The latest iPhoto treats all newly imported photos in this manner - RAW/JPG or other format. It keeps a copy of the original in a folder called originals, and any edits/crops you make are applied and saved either as a modified JPG or TIFF. This non-destructive editing is a great feature that many RAW editors allow so you can go back to the original image if you mess things up. Applying the principle to JPGs etc is equally as important.
    Canon's Digital Photo Professional is a free RAW processor program you can download from their site - certainly worth a look, but you may well find iPhoto simpler if not as flexible. On Windows, not sure about Mac OS, DPP does actually alter (or add) some metadata to RAW files - it doesn't alter the 'sensor data' but somehow embeds edited values to the RAW file so they display as edited next time - you can go back to original but I doubt other software will understand these tweaks.
    Digital cameras are getting better and better at getting white balance etc correct, however RAW files are great mainly for two things.
    Firstly - in camera white balance settings are simply those applied to JPGs the camera produces. Set it to fluorescent and take a shot of a cloudy scene and the JPG may look awful. With the RAW you can change the white balance after the event and is a real image saver. I particularly like software that lets you use a 'dropper' to choose a neutral grey shade on the image to set the white balance.
    Secondly - over/under exposure. As RAW files hold more light intensity detail you can often bring out shadow detail from underexposed images or recover blown highlights from images that are unusable as JPGs. There are limits to this latitude of course.
    In camera JPGs are often all you need - the RAWs just give added flexibility.
    Next thing I'd say is not to get too hung up about profiles at this stage.
    Yes, you can pay for generic profiles or even expensive personalised profiles for the 20D - there are some gains in compatible software (sometimes the profiles are designed to work with particular software!). Not necesarily huge gains though, so I'd say keep it simple to start with.
    If there's one thing it's worth profiling, then it's your monitor.
    I often use the analogy of a TV with a video still image from DVD or VCR.
    Say you adjust the brightness/contrast/colour/sharpness of the TV then the image can be made to look wildly different on different settings.
    However the actual image being displayed is not itself altered at all by the DVD player or VCR on pause. Turn the TV off it goes black, but the DVD/VCR still outputs that same image. It's just displayed differently or not at all!
    Translate this to editing photos.
    The RAW or JPG will be processed by iPhoto according to a particular colour space, say sRGB or AdobeRGB - now how on earth do you know that the monitor's brightness/contrast/saturation are at the correct level to display the image correctly? Is it brightnes 50%/75%/20%?
    The answer is the monitor profile which tweaks the output of the monitor towards a preset calibration - this is for a given brightness/contrast/colour setting (not all monitors have exhaustive adjustments but some do). Generic profiles which come with Macs are better than nothing, and indeed often quite close to an individually calibrated monitor profile.
    You can however calibrate your monitor either by eye or using a hardware accessory.
    Open your System Preferences folder and choose Displays.
    Click the colour tab and remember the profile name highlighted!
    Click on any others to see how different profiles affect the display - the other profiles will invariably be wrong for the monitor but they show the effect.
    These other profiles DO NOT make you system display an image say as sRGB or AdobeRGB - what they imply is that the monitor can display the range of sRGB or AdobeRGB - it can't! It can display what IT is capable of displaying.
    It is the image profile that makes software display it in the sRGB or AdobeRGB or other colour space. The monitor profile allows the image to be displayed more accurately by mapping available colours it can display or close fits to the one's the image contains.
    There is a Calibrate button in this tab which should help you Calibrate your monitor by eye (I think I've not used it).
    You can also buy hardware accessories to accurately calibrate your monitor (I use an EyeOne Display by Gretag Macbeth - older version - there are far more expensive and also reasonable cheaper options out there). The hardware devices basically cycle through a display of 'known colours'. The device's software knows what colour it's trying to display, the device usually hangs over the display and measures what's actually displayed, then reprograms the way the graphic card displays colours and also creates a custom monitor profile - this process of calibration optimises your monitor's display.
    You can also calibrate or get custom printer profiles made to optimise printer output, but you won't be doing that. Some online photo sites do however supply profiles which match their photo printers so you can tweak your images to match output on their hardware.
    Most photo sites that the public use however will assume that the images are sRGB. If you send an AdobeRGB image for printing it may be treated as sRGB and printed incorrectly if that photo printer's software doesn't take account of embedded profiles.
    I said it was complex and confusing!
    Continued again!
    AC

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