Damage in iMac 27" Casing

I've recently returned home tonight with a brand new iMac 27" from an Apple reseller here in Singapore. I've taken it out of the box and have noticed that the screen is dented above the iSight camera (photo - http://db.tt/Eb0L0f0).
Everything seems to be in working condition, but I would like to know how I can get this fixed. Do you think they would just replace the casing? I would like to get to using this machine for work and can't really have any more delays.
Hopefully they will not have to return the whole machine to the factory as my old Mac Pro has just been sold

The answer is simple, return the machine to your reseller immediately and request a replacement! If you replace it un box the replacement prior to leaving the store and run it for a few minutes to make sure it's operating OK.
Roger

Similar Messages

House fire damage to iMac

We recently had a house fire at our town home cluster. Our unit was damaged with smoke residue. The visible damage was in the room with our one year old 27 inch iMac. Is there some documentation or insurance standard that will allow for replacement? Everything with the insurance company is a fight and we fear the iMac failing a month or two after the claim is settled. Their response is "If it turns on it is OK".

It may cost you a bit out of pocket, but you might be able to take it to a service provider and have them do a diagnostic and open it to see if there is any visible damage. But, as varjak paw, the insurance company can just ignore it, but I would think with a written evaluation it would be harder for them to do so. And if they don't find anything wrong, it may give you peace of mind.
That being said, if the damage to your apartment was only smoke and the computer was turned off, there shouldn't be too much smoke residue drawn inside and once you clean off the outside, it should be fine.

House Fire/Smoke Damaged 27"imac

I had a kitchen/house fire recently(no one was injured). Fire mainly in kitchen, but smoke damage throughout the house. I managed to get my 27"imac out of the house, but could not save mouse or keyboard. I rather forcefully pulled the imac loose from the cord and got it outside, but smoke did envelop it for a short period of time. No apparent fire damage to case or screen.
At the suggestion of my insurance company, I took it to Best Buy to have them get pictures and music from harddrive. They were unable to get it to boot, they kept getting "no bootable device or media found" or something to that effect. Best Buy told me that they could attempt advanced data recovery at a cost of $499. Insurance will pay for it, but I hate to pay them that amount of money.
Does anyone have any ideas? Should I get a universal mouse and keyboard and try to recover the data myself or do I pay Best Buy the money and take my chances on their tech savvy?
If I did purchase mouse and keyboard for imac, would a universal mouse and keyboard work and what are some things I could try after hooking up the imac?
Thanks for reading.

Hi, First, glad no one got hurt, I would imagine by just pulling out the power cord & assuming your Mac was running & you where actually using it, You may well have damaged the HD..
Whether via insurance or your own pocket, I would contact an Apple Approved Service Agent (reading from other Posts BestBuy have never had good repair results) Have your Mac inspected & I suspect you will need to replace the HD.. maybe invest in a HD external case (OWC) and see once you Mac is up & running you can retrieve some of your info from the old HD..Professional Recovery is expensive with no guarantees.. SJ will be over the moon that you chose to save your 27"Mac instead of the cat""
Re:- K/B & Mouse, once the AASA has repaired the Mac treat yourself to new Apple units.....L
Message was edited by: elmac

Have I damaged my iMac with notched RAM upgrade attempt?

i have a 21inch iMac, mid 2011 2.5ghz and decided to upgrade the RAM from 4 to 8gb (2x2 to 4x2) as this was supposed to be very easy (and only cost £35 or so from MrMemory) The problems started with getting the new RAM module in - basically I couldn't! Watching videos and reading instructions said it did take a bit of force, but I was really forcing without the module clicking into place. That **** tape seemed to be stopping it from sitting right. After several hours of swearing the tape broke and now the modules seemed to be finally sat in the slots. Turned on. Nothing at all! No beeps, nothing! Taking out the modules, I read up that the pairings may matter, but after the cat jumped on me, I don't know which ones are the new modules and which are the originals! Thought I would try putting pairs in to see if i could at least get it going. But now I'm getting nothing but the dreaded 3 beeps. I've tried all,combinations of the 4 2gb modules. Looking into the iMac's memory bay, I'm wondering if all my forcing has damaged it as I see a few loose metal strands in the memory slots? Plus those tapes are in bits so I've had to use long nose pliers to remove modules. Has this supposedly easy upgrade been so badly botched by me, I've knackered my Mac??!

Try to boot in Safe mode, see if you are able: Hold down shift and then power on. For wireless keyboards, hold down shift after the chime.
Safe Boot
Resolve startup issues and perform disk maintenance with Disk

I pulled the plug, did i damage my iMac?

After installing the latest security update 1.1 from my software update it seemed to go well until the restart. The screen went grey and the circle kept spinning and spinning. I tried to shut down using the button on rear but nothing, it just kept spinning. Finally I pulled the plug. I started it up again using the back button and it started fine. Installer log says the update is installed. I checked HD with disc utility from the install disc and repaired permissions which was OK except for the usual Suid warnings. My question is, did I do any damage to my machine by pulling the plug? Do I need to do any other maintenance to make sure all is well.

It all depends on what it was doing while the spinning was occurring.
There are a few issues that could come up.
Data in buffers may not have been sync'd to the disk. So depending on what that data was (update files, documents, etc.) it could be lost.
Permissions or access controls that were being applied could be missing or corrupted - but your repair of permissions should have taken care of that.
Files that were being uncompressed at the time may never have been uncompressed and you could end up with mixed up versions of files.
My recommendation would be to:
- Hold down 'command-v' when you boot this next time from right after the chime to when you start getting data on the screen. This will take away the screen masks when the system starts and stops.
- Re-apply the security update and let it finish. You'll be able to see what it's doing as it shuts down, so it should make things a little more comfortable than just watching the icon spin.
- If you are always impatient with updates, you may want to make verbose booting permanent. You can do this by editing /Library/Preferences/SystemConfiguration/com.apple.Boot.plist and adding a -v between the two string tags under the kernel flags key.

IMac edges chiping

Hi,
i've had my 17" intel based iMac for almost a year and the edges of the plastic casing around the main part of the computer seem to be chipping and i don't know why
is this normal? or is there something wrong???
Thanks

Hi E_man
Welcome to apple Discussions!
The nearly 2 year old 17" Core Duo that I purchased Jan. 2006, looks the same as the day I opened the box.
So I would say yes there is something wrong, the case should not be chipping, cracking, splitting or discoloring for at least another 10 to 20 years! If you have done nothing to damage the iMac you should take it into the nearest Apple Store, and politely insist that it be repaired or replaced befor your warranty has passed. You should also consider purchasing Apple Care if you haven't, to cover your iMac for 2 more years.
Dennis

Is there a way to install an SSD hard drive on a 2011 iMac without voiding the warranty?

I purchased an iMac last October and my line of work demands extensive use of After Effects and Final Cut Pro. My iMac is fitted with the standard 1TB SATA hard drive, and lately I considered installing an SSD drive as I have been experiencing lags. In all my naivete I asked Apple Store/Service outlet where I originally bought my iMac, but they turned me down, claiming that "they are not allowed to order the extra parts and if they do proceed then my warranty will be void". Which means that about 2 years of AppleCare will go out of the window. I can always do it myself, but at the risk of damaging my iMac and facing a null warranty on top of it. I am still reeling in disbelief, is it really the case that Apple prohibits its customers from legitimately upgrading their computer at their own stores? What kind of nonsense is this? It's an iMac we're talking about, not an iPhone. It is unreasonable, unprofessional, and I need an explanation!

Adding an SSD is not a simple endeavour like adding additional memory or adding another hard drive to a Mac Pro. That's probably why the option is only offered as an option at the time of purchase. Even if your Apple store was willing to install the necessary parts you will probably be paying for 1-2 hours of labor plus the cost of purchasing the necessary service parts (SSD, bracket, cables, etc) which I suspect will make the upgrade cost much higher than what it costs to add the SSD option when purchasing a new system.
I use my system for business and need it to work reliably. Even though I'm fairly handy with tools I would not be willing to risk damaging my system and voiding my warranty by opening my system and removing the logic board and several other parts in order to squeeze in an SSD option and attach the appropriate cables and brackets. I'm also not prepared to deal with the hassles of explaining why my system has unauthorized parts installed in the event I experience issues and need to make use of my Apple warranty. My time is valuable, so I would probably investigate external storage options, or if I needed the speed of an SSD, I would consider selling my existing system and then purchase a new system configured with an SSD.
If you haven't already done so I suggest doing a search on 'iMac SSD installation' to see what's involved. It might help you understand why the SSD option is not offered post purchase.

IMac G3 chimes two to four times upon boot and fails to load.

Hello, all.
Today, I moved my aunt from my old iMac G3 to my less old iMac G4. The iMac G3 was working great still at her house, so I decided to take it home with me to replace the iMac G4. I didn't really plan on using it to any extent, but thought it would be cool to have still working.
So I pop it in the car on the passenger seat, drive the mile back home, and unload it onto my desk. I plug power, ethernet, keyboard/mouse and a USB extension cable in, and attempt to boot. When I hit the power button, the iMac makes an attempt to chime, but it kinda does two loud chimes, a faint third chime, and a fourth loud chime. After that, it just sits there with the power button light on and nothing happens.
Now I'm gonna admit it. This was done on an extension cord coming off of a three-way splitter coming off a power strip. Not the safest or most practical way to do this, but I figured that since it worked with my old eMac G4 that had a 17" CRT, it would work with my iMac G3 with a 15" CRT.
So I moved the power directly to the wall. This time, I plugged in only the power and nothing else. I press the power button, and it still does the weird chime and fails to load.
So does anyone have any clues as to what to try? Before you tell me to bust this thing open, I'm gonna say this: I am deathly afraid of CRT monitors, and generally stay as far away as humanly possible from them. The iMac has had a history of few problems, but one of those was a loud, high pitched noise coming from the screen when it was in my aunt's basement. This was probably due to being to cold, or humidity, but switching screen resolutions seemed to fix it. I could switch back and it went along fine. I know it's the screen that was making the sound because my eMac had done the same thing just a week prior, even though it was in an environmentally-sound room, along with some other computers.
Anyway, she has since moved the iMac G3 up to the main part of the house that stays at a fairly steady 75F or so year round and doesn't get too humid. It's worked great, and we were gonna move her up to the G4 for speed benefits and so that she could video chat in Skype. When I last powered down the iMac G3, it was running absolutely fine. I got all the important data off it (thank God) and transferred to the iMac G4. I gently, without bumping it on anything, took it out to the car, gently set it on the foam-cushioned seat, and gently drove it home. When I got it home, I gently took it out, gently took it to the desk, and gently set it down. After a while, I put it screen-down on my lap to read the stuff on the bottom. I undid the RAM cover, popped out a stick, and put it back in. I haven't really gone back to check, but I'm about 90% sure that I got it in perfectly fine. After I looked at it, I gently set it back on the table and did the whole boot process that I explained earlier.
So what in the world could be causing this? Did I really bump it on something, or could it be a weather problem, or could it be that it decided to just stop working at the most perfect time?
Specs are as follows:
iMac G3 600 mHz Graphite
Mac OS X Tiger 10.4.11 or whatever the last update was
1GB RAM
40GB HD
ATi Rage 128 or whatever it is that's in these things
Combo drive
No Airport card
No internal mods
Never been opened since I purchased it in late 2006.
Also, I think this would be the best place to note that there are little red pieces of what appears to be hard plastic. It looks to be about as thick as the casing that goes around the back. I remember it being in the speaker grill when I first got it, but after moving around, it has moved mostly to the bottom, just under the CD-RW/DVD drive. You can clearly see it through the translucent plastics of the iMac's casing. Not sure what the heck it is, how it got there, or if it has any significant importance to the problem at hand, but I figured it would be worth a shot by shouting that out.
OH, one more thing. I noticed, on the last successful boot at my aunt's house, that the sound would not work. I tried moving the slider up to change the volume, and nothing worked. It wouldn't turn the sound on. Very mysterious. Other than that though, it hasn't had any issues that I've seen.
Sorry for the huge post, but I just want to know if it's my stupidity stopping it from booting or if it really did just decide to end its usable life at the precise moment it wasn't absolutely needed anymore. I will check the RAM and post back if that fixes anything, so if there isn't a reply from me saying that I checked RAM and it fixed it, then it's still being a problem and the RAM wasn't the problem.
And if it really did just decide to stop working, does anyone know of anyone that puts Mac Mini's inside iMac G3 cases? It would be pretty freaking awesome if I could take my Mac Mini, put it in there, and possibly get rid of the CRT and replace it with an LCD panel. I've heard that it's been done before, but again, I'm deathly afraid of the stupid things that are CRT screens. Long story short, one imploded about three yards away from me and it scared the living **** out of me. I really wish all CRTs would just STOP working RIGHT NOW so that everyone had to move to LCD screens. It would make my life so much easier. Hey, why not start with my iMac? All right everyone, if you own a CRT monitor or a computer with a CRT monitor built in, make sure it isn't working by Tuesday, okay? *Shudders in fear of an imploding CRT...*

Since you removed/re-installed one of the memory DIMMs from the computer, that's the most likely culprit (as the computer worked perfectly earlier). Remove it again and re-install, making sure that it's fully-seated in the slot and that the locking levers snap closed at each end. Try booting the iMac again. If unsuccessful, immediately insert your Tiger installer DVD when you power ON and hold down the C key. If it boots to the Tiger disk, run Disk Utility to scan and repair the hard drive.

Replacing the iMac G4 screen.

Hi, i have searched for ways in how to use your old iMac G4 monitor as an external monitor with no success, so an idea occurred to me, what if i find an LCD monitor that would fit in the casing of the iMac G4?
I know is possible, and that the only hard part would be running the cables down through the arm, but i think i can figure that out, so the question now is which LCD screen/monitor will fit on the iMac G4 casing?

When you replace the original LCD panel in the iMac G4 with a
complete display (not just the panel with inverter, etc inside) the
combined weight of the new or different display may offset the
designed balance the chrome arm's internal springs & dampener
were intended to compensate for, with the original panel.
This may (or not) be a problem. You may have to find the take-
apart images of the chrome arm - posted in another link here,
and see if there is a way to modify the friction dampeners. Or
use a chrome arm from a 20" iMac G4 since it holds a heavier
LCD than the 17" arm was intended to support.
Hopefully some liquid crystal panel display that fits the 17"
display frame won't weigh much more. Or, perhaps some
of the components could be moved into the base of an
otherwise defective iMac G4 if the machine is gutted and
used only for a display support platform.
Sharing a display to expand the desktop of one to the other
can be done, with two healthy Mac computers. Either in a
third-party software or in a display option in Leopard.
In any event...
Good luck & happy computing!

Do you know how to delete PW of iMac OS?

Any one know how to delete the PW of iMac OS(Lion Ver.) ?
It's necessary to log on iMac OS when I lost PW or Keyboard doesn't work.
Please let me know how to initialize the PW(Pass Word) of iMac OS(Lion) without keyboard?

That is why i post the issue.
I've got a bad experience dated 2013-10-1 at 22:14:00 ~ 22:31:00 because bluetooth not working so long time. And i've got lots of damages and mental damage also.
We are not safe here without bluetooth security policy anytime and anywhere.
Bluetooth devices(wireless Keyboard and Mouse) control on the iMac system is easily disconnected by some mobile network engineers and network hackers also.
It's guilty to control bluetooth devices connection without user's permission.
I can not log on Mac OSX without wireless keyboard and mouse, Can you imagine?
We have to buy new keyboard and mouse cabled USB type in that case.
Bluetooth devices control to the computer on the system preferences is separated from the network system until today.
So it's necessary to control bluetooth devices connection under administrator password control such as network system.
Everything's for user's safe.
The bluetooth devices(wireless Keyboard and Mouse) connection control must be modified under the administrator password control for the Mac OSX
So It's should be updated over OSX Version10. 7 as soon as possible.
It's to reduce the damage of iMac users.

THE IMAC MONITOR

HELLO ALL,
IS THERE A WAY TO TURN OFF THE IMAC MONITOR AND USE AN EXTERNAL MONITOR INSTEAD. I INITIALLY WANTED TO EXPAND THE DESKTOP, BUT FOUND OUT THAT I COULD ONLY MIRROR IT. SO, I AM EXPERIMENTING WITH THIS IDEA. IF ANYONE WOULD BE SO KIND AS TO GIVE GUIDANCE I WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATIVE.

Hello and Welcome to Apple Discussions.
Some iMac G4s can be hacked to extend rather than mirror display. It could permeanently damage your iMac if it goes wrong - i.e. power fails mid install.
There are also iMac G4s out there with their screens removed. So these things are possible.
Google for 'Screen Spanning Doctor' and 'The Mac Orb'
mrtotes

IMac 20" 2 GHz - Is it compatible with Panther?

We recently purchased a couple of new iMac G5 2GHz machines to ad to our army of iMacs, but when we install the image we have for our users, the fans run at full pelt.
Apparently (according to our suppliers) the fan settings are contained within Tiger, but I was wondering is there anyway to run Panther on these machines without the fans running so loud.
Thanks

Those iMacs shipped with Tiger. Therefore Tiger is the earliest OS that is supported on those iMacs. Running anything earlier (Panther, etc.) can damage those iMacs.

Best Battery Backup for iMac 27"?

Just received my new iMac 27" i7. I contacted Apple and they told me I don't really need a battery backup to protect the iMac but it's always a good idea. So I am looking for an inexpensive backup to just protect the iMac and give me a few minutes to shutdown. I have been reading about battery backups and from my understanding rating (va or watts) can be less than the iMac. The only real difference is that the time to successfully shut down will be shorter. Is this correct? The 27" has a 340 watt power supply so I could get a 240 watt backup and be fine if I only wanted to shut down wilthout damage the iMac?
Any suggestions on what to get? It's almost impossible to make an informed decision because of specifications like "pure sine wave output", "dirty backup power" and "constant voltage source". I am totally confused. Do I really need one at all?
Thank you
VPH

dthawk63 wrote:
Do you need to hook up the USB cable
You don't have to, but if you don't, when the battery runs out, your Mac will crash.
If you connect the cable and set the preferences to shut it down after a certain period of time, or when there's a certain percentage of the battery left, etc., per the pink box in the link provided earlier, it will do a controlled powerdown.
and install the APC shut down software?
No, do not install that. It's been incompatible with Macs for several years.
Your Mac has the software already built-in.

Using UPS units with iMac G5 (iSight)

I just bought an APC RS 800 VA UPS for my iMac and now find that it might not be a good idea. There is a post on Macintouch about a report from APC tech saying that the cheaper units are not compatible with iMacs because of the squarewave (vs sinewave) output. If it goes on battery power, it could damage the iMac power supply.
Very strange, because they have the iMac listed on the box the unit shipped in as being ideal for use with this UPS!
Has anyone used the less expensive UPS units with the iMac G5 successfully? Have you had it run on battery power with no noise (hum or buzz) or other anomalies?
Griff

I do not have a UPS from APC, but a generic one from Best Buy which looks like a unit made by CyberPower. It has kicked in several times without any humming or buzzing at all.

I want to try and keep my iMac cooler , would this work ..?

My new iMac 24 inch is working fine , the only thing is its getting very hot on the casing at the top, I think this may be due to the fact it is working in a very hot room, the iMac sits on a nice and clear desk top well away from the wall , the room is well ventilated with all the windows open, but the room temperature get’s very hot and there’s no room air conditioning . I was wondering if I placed a fan on the desk top
To blow some air onto the iMac’s case , this may help reduce the machine from getting hot ..? . Where does the iMac draw its cooling air from , the bottom or top of the casing..? and do you think that putting a fan on the desk would reduce the iMac’s
Casing temperature in any way ..?

Is the ambient temperature within the operating limits stated for the iMac? (Operating temperature: 50°F to 95°F - 10°C to 35°C) If so, why worry about some Heath-Robinson cooling arrangment. If the heat is being dissipated out of the iMac then it's doing the job it's designed to.
If you look at the iStat Pro widget:
are there any that are actually higher than they should be. The metal case of the iMac acts as a heat-sink so it will feel warm in places whereas other computers may be far hotter inside but feel cooler to the touch.
mrtotes

Damage in iMac 27" Casing

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