Dangerous to put stuff on Mac Mini?

I just bought a Mac Mini to replace a PowerPC G5 that died. That monster lived under my desk; the Mac Mini sits on it, close enough so that I can insert DVDs. However, the top of it is the only clear spot on my desk — so I find myself (unconsciously) putting things on it. How dangerous is this? Or, to put it in a positive way, can I use it to keep my cup of coffee warm? (I know I'm not supposed to block the air vents in the back, which is nearly impossible, given the number of cables connected there.) Despite the levity, this is a serious question, and I thank responders in advance.

to put it in a positive way, can I use it to keep my cup of coffee warm?
I would recommend not putting any cup or other unsealed container of liquid on or near your Mac mini. There's too much chance of a spill which could damage the mini. Solid objects should be no problem, though I wouldn't suggest putting any other electronic device or other source of heat on the mini as it could cause the mini to overheat.
Regards.

Similar Messages

How much ram should i put in my mac mini mid-2011?

Hello, so i have a mid-2011 mac mini intel i5 2.3GHz with 2gb of ram and sometimes its kind of slow.. I've searched on OWC for ram and found 4gb (2x2gb) for about 58$ and 8gb (2x4gb) for 105$. I am an high school student that does a lot of pages documents, garageband and imovie projects, iphoto editing and i sometimes use xcode. Should 4gb of ram be sufficient or it would be better if i had 8gb? Well, i know that more ram is always better, but would 4gb make a lot of difference from my 2gb?

You can get a 120GB Samsung SSD on Amazon for $90. Put your movies and music on an external drive since it doesn't matter how fast you read/write those. You can take your current internal drive and put it in an external enclosure for $15.
For the money, this will give you the biggest performance improvement.
But, if you still want to upgrade your RAM, you can go to the Activity Monitor app, Memory tab, and look at "Swap used" in the lower left corner. That will tell you how much data *would* be stored in memory if you upgraded. Check this number next time your computer is running slow. If it's 2GB or less, then you wouldn't benefit at all from > 4GB total memory. Currently I "only" have 4GB of memory in my Mac Mini and I'm running a bunch of stuff and I'm using zero swap, so I would get literally no benefit from more RAM.

I have a 3rd party SSD to put in my mac mini how do i get osx on it i do not have a external hard drive

I want to put a 3rd party SSD in my mac mini and I no how to put in inside the mac mini but, how do I get osx on it preferably Yosemite I do not have a external hard drive just the one that comes with the mac mini and my 3rd party internal SSD please help me.

The easy way is to Purchase an External Enclosure like the Startech USB 3.0 S2510BPU33 with UASP, its a Super Fast connection, SATA 3.1 @ 6 Gb/s.
Just Pop your SSD inside the enclosure and use OS X Disk Utility to clone your existing HDD. This enclosure is So Fast you would not even have to open up your Mini to install the SSD, just Boot Externally you would Never Know the difference and your Warranty won't be affected by opening it up.
What Mini do you have ?
Link to Enclosure http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817707313&cm_re=startech_3 .0-_-17-707-313-_-Product

Putting files on Mac Mini

I just purchased the intel Mac mini that has the Tiger OS.
I also have an iMAC G5 at home with Jaguar.
I bought the Mac mini for entertainment purposes only.
My iMAC was getting too full of music and it was getting bogged down, so I am going to take my 30 gigs of music off of my iMAC and put it on the MAC mini. I am going to then hook my MAC mini up to my surround sound speakers and my LCD tv (useing *** the monitor) in the front room.
My question is .... can I transfer my iTunes files easily from the iMAC to the MAC mini if the 2 computers have diff OS?
If so, how?
Will it transfer smoothly with all my playlists and music in order?
Will I need to purchase a special firewire to do so?
The Apple employee told me it's easy. He said something about holding down the "P" button while starting up the computers after they are connected.
Please help.

There is no problem copying it to the other computer. And, it doesn't matter that they have different microprocessors.
The guy at the store likely said the "T" key.
That would put the computer in Target Disk Mode.
With both computers off, connect the two computers using a FireWire cable.
Turn on the iMac and hold down the letter "T" immediately after turning on the computer. Keep holding it down until you see the computer display a "FireWire" logo. That vaguely looks like a large Capital "Y" with a circle in the middle of it.
Then, turn on the Mac Mini.
When the Mac Mini is done booting up, you'll see a hard drive icon on your desktop that represents your iMac's hard drive.
Now, browse to the iMac's hard drive and navigate to:
Hard Drive --> Users --> "Your User Name" --> Music
Now, get the Folder called "iTunes" and copy it to the exact same location on your new Mac Mini.
It will ask to over-write the existing folder. Just say yes.
Now, when you open iTunes on the new Mac Mini, it should see the music library.
Alternatively, if you don't want to use the above route, you can do everything except copy the folder from one computer to the other. And, instead:
Open iTunes on the new Mac Mini, and then go to the "File" menu and select "Add to Library".
Then, navigate to the location I mentioned previously on the iMac G5 (where your music is stored), and go into the iTunes Folder, and choose the "iTunes Music" folder.
Now, tell it to import, and you should start seeing all your music being added to the library.
When you are done, turn off both computers, and disconnect the cable.
Use the normal method to shut-down the Mac Mini first, and then press and hold the power button on the iMac until it turns-off.
Hope this helps.

Can i take the ram from macbook pro and put it in mac mini?

Hey guys currently I have 8 gb of ram in my late 2011 mac macbook pro and was wondering if I could take it and put in into my new 2012 mac mini? Thanks for the help?

Only if they use the same RAM. That means same specs. Your Mini requires faster RAM than is installed in the MBP. They are not interchangeable.

Highest possible quality setup on FMLE on a mac mini.

What is the highest quality setup I could put on a mac mini and use FMLE? I want to maximize video quality but the HD camera I bought doesn't work. This is on a mac mini so hardware based capture cards are not an option.

Yes you can use VNC.
Install a vnc server on her mac.OSXvnc
Install a vnc client on your mac.chicken of the vnc is a good vnc client.

Mac mini 2005

Does anyone know what type of Ultra ATA hard drive I can put in a Mac mini 2005? Does it matter if it is Ultra ATA 100 or 133?

Other World Computing has a nice hardware configurator on their website which will find appropriate hard drives for your Mini or other Mac:
http://eshop.macsales.com/MyOWC/

Getting data off of a dead Mac mini

I have a two year old Mac mini. It's never been the fastest horse in the stable. Tuesday night, I was getting even more spinning beach ball that usual. On Monday morning, it was even worse. I had a spinning beach ball for 10 minutes, and I shut the computer down by holding down the on button for 5 seconds. I ran the Apple Hardware Test. Very quickly, it told me that I had error "2STF/8/3:ATA-100 ata-6-Master" in "Mass Storage." Using a different computer, I looked around a bit on this forum, and figured that this wasn't going to be a cheap and easy fix. Today I bought a new iMac (which I'm working from right now). I want to know if I can get any data off of my old mac mini, and then if I can eventually fix it so that it can be a back-up computer for me to leave at home.
I borrowed a firewire from a friend, and tried to use my mac mini as a target drive. Unfortunately, the Mac OS 10.4 startup/apple hardware test disk seems to be irretrievably stuck in my mac mini. When I connected the computers with the firewire (and started the mac mini up, pressing T), all I got was an icon of the startup disk on my iMac's desktop. Is there another way I can try to access the data on my Mac mini?
My Mac mini is running 10.4.11 and my brand new iMac is running 10.5.
Any ideas?

2.5" IDE hard drives which can be put into a Mac mini aren't all that expensive (http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Seagate/ST94811AB/ has a $50 40Gb example, and the same supplier has other options for more storage) but replacing the drive yourself is a bit fiddly and not for the faint-hearted! It's not all that difficult however, so resurrecting your mini may not be all that expensive or hard.
Meanwhile, it may be that some of your data can be rescued from the drive, but you'll need a utility such as Prosoft's Data Rescue II (http://www.prosofteng.com/products/data_rescue.php at a cost of $99) to try. Unless the drive has suffered a major hardware failure, which that error message tends to suggest, it could be put into an external enclosure and attempts made to recover data.

How much memory can I stuff in my Mac Mini?

I have a mid-2011 i5 2.3 Mac Mini that came with 4GB memory (2X2GB). After a while, I upgraded it to 2X4GB chips, and today, I installed 2X8GB chips for a total of 16GB internal memory. How much can I stuff in there? Can I put in 2X16GB chips?
Also, to speed things up, can I install one of those Fusion drives into the Mac Mini?

There has only been fanciful reference to 16 GB SODIMMs. Middle of last year, 8 GB SODIMMs were $750+ each. Now they are $45 through Crucial. 16 GB SODIMMs may be out there somewhere, but likely cost $3000 each -- just my "off the cuff" estimate as I have done no research.

Should i put bt net protect on my mac mini

I am new to Apple mac mini, do I need to put anti virus on, I am with BT so can get their BT Netprotect for free?
Please advise.

1. This is a comment on what you should—and should not—do to protect yourself from malicious software ("malware") that circulates on the Internet and gets onto a computer as an unintended consequence of the user's actions. It does not apply to software, such as keystroke loggers, that may be installed deliberately by an intruder who has hands-on access to the computer, or who has been able to log in to it remotely. That threat is in a different category, and there's no easy way to defend against it.
If you find this comment too long or too technical, read only sections 5, 6, and 10.
OS X now implements three layers of built-in protection specifically against malware, not counting runtime protections such as execute disable, sandboxing, system library randomization, and address space layout randomization that may also guard against other kinds of exploits.
2. All versions of OS X since 10.6.7 have been able to detect known Mac malware in downloaded files, and to block insecure web plugins. This feature is transparent to the user. Internally Apple calls it "XProtect."
The malware recognition database used by XProtect is automatically updated; however, you shouldn't rely on it, because the attackers are always at least a day ahead of the defenders.
The following caveats apply to XProtect:
It can be bypassed by some third-party networking software, such as BitTorrent clients and Java applets.
It only applies to software downloaded from the network. Software installed from a CD or other media is not checked.
As new versions of OS X are released, it's not clear whether Apple will indefinitely continue to maintain the XProtect database of older versions such as 10.6. The security of obsolete system versions may eventually be degraded. Security updates to the code of obsolete systems will stop being released at some point, and that may leave them open to other kinds of attack besides malware.
   3. Starting with OS X 10.7.5, there has been a second layer of built-in malware protection, designated "Gatekeeper" by Apple. By default, applications and Installer packages downloaded from the network will only run if they're digitally signed by a developer with a certificate issued by Apple. Software certified in this way hasn't necessarily been tested by Apple, but you can be reasonably sure that it hasn't been modified by anyone other than the developer. His identity is known to Apple, so he could be held legally responsible if he distributed malware. That may not mean much if the developer lives in a country with a weak legal system (see below.)
Gatekeeper doesn't depend on a database of known malware. It has, however, the same limitations as XProtect, and in addition the following:
It can easily be disabled or overridden by the user.
A malware attacker could get control of a code-signing certificate under false pretenses, or could simply ignore the consequences of distributing codesigned malware.
An App Store developer could find a way to bypass Apple's oversight, or the oversight could fail due to human error.
Apple has so far failed to revoke the codesigning certificates of some known abusers, thereby diluting the value of Gatekeeper and the Developer ID program. These failures don't involve App Store products, however.
   For the reasons given, App Store products, and—to a lesser extent—other applications recognized by Gatekeeper as signed, are safer than others, but they can't be considered absolutely safe. "Sandboxed" applications may prompt for access to private data, such as your contacts, or for access to the network. Think before granting that access. Sandbox security is based on user input. Never click through any request for authorization without thinking.
4. Starting with OS X 10.8.3, a third layer of protection has been added: a "Malware Removal Tool" (MRT). MRT runs automatically in the background when you update the OS. It checks for, and removes, malware that may have evaded the other protections via a Java exploit (see below.) MRT also runs when you install or update the Apple-supplied Java runtime (but not the Oracle runtime.) Like XProtect, MRT is effective against known threats, but not against unknown ones. It notifies you if it finds malware, but otherwise there's no user interface to MRT.
5. The built-in security features of OS X reduce the risk of malware attack, but they are not, and never will be, complete protection. Malware is a problem of human behavior, and a technological fix is not going to solve it. Trusting software to protect you will only make you more vulnerable.
The best defense is always going to be your own intelligence. With the possible exception of Java exploits, all known malware circulating on the Internet that affects a fully-updated installation of OS X 10.6 or later takes the form of so-called "Trojan horses," which can only have an effect if the victim is duped into running them. The threat therefore amounts to a battle of wits between you and the scam artists. If you're smarter than they think you are, you'll win. That means, in practice, that you always stay within a safe harbor of computing practices. How do you know when you're leaving the safe harbor? Below are some warning signs of danger.
Software from an untrustworthy source
Software of any kind is distributed via BitTorrent. or Usenet, or on a website that also distributes pirated music or movies.
Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, doesn't come directly from the developer’s website. Do not trust an alert from any website to update Flash, your browser, or anything else.
Rogue websites such as Softonic and CNET Download distribute free applications that have been packaged in a superfluous "installer."
The software is advertised by means of spam or intrusive web ads. Any ad, on any site, that includes a direct link to a download should be ignored.
Software that is plainly illegal or does something illegal
High-priced commercial software such as Photoshop is "cracked" or "free."
An application helps you to infringe copyright, for instance by circumventing the copy protection on commercial software, or saving streamed media for reuse without permission.
Conditional or unsolicited offers from strangers
A telephone caller or a web page tells you that you have a “virus” and offers to help you remove it. (Some reputable websites did legitimately warn visitors who were infected with the "DNSChanger" malware. That exception to this rule no longer applies.)
A web site offers free content such as video or music, but to use it you must install a “codec,” “plug-in,” "player," "downloader," "extractor," or “certificate” that comes from that same site, or an unknown one.
You win a prize in a contest you never entered.
Someone on a message board such as this one is eager to help you, but only if you download an application of his choosing.
A "FREE WI-FI !!!" network advertises itself in a public place such as an airport, but is not provided by the management.
Anything online that you would expect to pay for is "free."
Unexpected events
You open what you think is a document and get an alert that it's "an application downloaded from the Internet." Click Cancel and delete the file. Even if you don't get the alert, you should still delete any file that isn't what you expected it to be.
An application does something you don't expect, such as asking for permission to access your contacts, your location, or the Internet for no obvious reason.
Software is attached to email that you didn't request, even if it comes (or seems to come) from someone you trust.
I don't say that leaving the safe harbor just once will necessarily result in disaster, but making a habit of it will weaken your defenses against malware attack. Any of the above scenarios should, at the very least, make you uncomfortable.
   6. Java on the Web (not to be confused with JavaScript, to which it's not related, despite the similarity of the names) is a weak point in the security of any system. Java is, among other things, a platform for running complex applications in a web page, on the client. That was always a bad idea, and Java's developers have proven themselves incapable of implementing it without also creating a portal for malware to enter. Past Java exploits are the closest thing there has ever been to a Windows-style virus affecting OS X. Merely loading a page with malicious Java content could be harmful.
Fortunately, client-side Java on the Web is obsolete and mostly extinct. Only a few outmoded sites still use it. Try to hasten the process of extinction by avoiding those sites, if you have a choice. Forget about playing games or other non-essential uses of Java.
Java is not included in OS X 10.7 and later. Discrete Java installers are distributed by Apple and by Oracle (the developer of Java.) Don't use either one unless you need it. Most people don't. If Java is installed, disable it—not JavaScript—in your browsers.
Regardless of version, experience has shown that Java on the Web can't be trusted. If you must use a Java applet for a task on a specific site, enable Java only for that site in Safari. Never enable Java for a public website that carries third-party advertising. Use it only on well-known, login-protected, secure websites without ads. In Safari 6 or later, you'll see a lock icon in the address bar with the abbreviation "https" when visiting a secure site.
Stay within the safe harbor, and you’ll be as safe from malware as you can practically be. The rest of this comment concerns what you should not do to protect yourself.
7. Never install any commercial "anti-virus" (AV) or "Internet security" products for the Mac, as they are all worse than useless. If you need to be able to detect Windows malware in your files, use one of the free security apps in the Mac App Store—nothing else.
Why shouldn't you use commercial AV products?
To recognize malware, the software depends on a database of known threats, which is always at least a day out of date. This technique is a proven failure, as a major AV software vendor has admitted. Most attacks are "zero-day"—that is, previously unknown. Recognition-based AV does not defend against such attacks, and the enterprise IT industry is coming to the realization that traditional AV software is worthless.
Its design is predicated on the nonexistent threat that malware may be injected at any time, anywhere in the file system. Malware is downloaded from the network; it doesn't materialize from nowhere. In order to meet that nonexistent threat, commercial AV software modifies or duplicates low-level functions of the operating system, which is a waste of resources and a common cause of instability, bugs, and poor performance.
By modifying the operating system, the software may also create weaknesses that could be exploited by malware attackers.
Most importantly, a false sense of security is dangerous.
8. An AV product from the App Store, such as "ClamXav," has the same drawback as the commercial suites of being always out of date, but it does not inject low-level code into the operating system. That doesn't mean it's entirely harmless. It may report email messages that have "phishing" links in the body, or Windows malware in attachments, as infected files, and offer to delete or move them. Doing so will corrupt the Mail database. The messages should be deleted from within the Mail application.
An AV app is not needed, and cannot be relied upon, for protection against OS X malware. It's useful, if at all, only for detecting Windows malware, and even for that use it's not really effective, because new Windows malware is emerging much faster than OS X malware.
Windows malware can't harm you directly (unless, of course, you use Windows.) Just don't pass it on to anyone else. A malicious attachment in email is usually easy to recognize by the name alone. An actual example:
London Terror Moovie.avi [124 spaces] Checked By Norton Antivirus.exe
You don't need software to tell you that's a Windows trojan. Software may be able to tell you which trojan it is, but who cares? In practice, there's no reason to use recognition software unless an institutional policy requires it. Windows malware is so widespread that you should assume it's in every email attachment until proven otherwise. Nevertheless, ClamXav or a similar product from the App Store may serve a purpose if it satisfies an ill-informed network administrator who says you must run some kind of AV application. It's free and it won't handicap the system.
The ClamXav developer won't try to "upsell" you to a paid version of the product. Other developers may do that. Don't be upsold. For one thing, you should not pay to protect Windows users from the consequences of their choice of computing platform. For another, a paid upgrade from a free app will probably have all the disadvantages mentioned in section 7.
9. It seems to be a common belief that the built-in Application Firewall acts as a barrier to infection, or prevents malware from functioning. It does neither. It blocks inbound connections to certain network services you're running, such as file sharing. It's disabled by default and you should leave it that way if you're behind a router on a private home or office network. Activate it only when you're on an untrusted network, for instance a public Wi-Fi hotspot, where you don't want to provide services. Disable any services you don't use in the Sharing preference pane. All are disabled by default.
10. As a Mac user, you don't have to live in fear that your computer may be infected every time you install software, read email, or visit a web page. But neither can you assume that you will always be safe from exploitation, no matter what you do. The greatest harm done by security software is precisely its selling point: it makes people feel safe. They may then feel safe enough to take risks from which the software doesn't protect them. Nothing can lessen the need for safe computing practices.

I lost my iphone, got a new sim card and put it in my boyfriend's old iphone. When I synch it in itunes it will only synch with his stuff and not mine. Any ideas how I can get it to synch with my itunes??

I lost my iphone, got a new sim card and put it in my boyfriend's old iphone. When I synch it in itunes it will only synch with his stuff and not mine. Any ideas how I can get it to synch with my itunes??

Are you using a Mac? It sounds like you are using his computer to sync to. If this is the case, then it will sync to all of his stuff unless a new user is created with your personal stuff on it.
When you want to sync your iPhone to that computer, switch to your user first, and then everything will sync with your stuff. If he wants to hook up his iPhone to sync it, then he needs to switch back to his own username first.

Putting new memory in the Mac Mini - tips and (especially) pitfalls

I had some problems in expanding my Mac Mini's memory. If you're about to do the same thing, you might find my experiences useful. So here they are.
*Opening the case*
I followed advice to use a plastic putty-knife and bought a one specially, but ran into a couple of problems. First, the plastic knives aren't as sharp as the metal ones, so they don't push into the available gap. I had to sharpen the edge before it would go in. The second problem was that, once in, it wasn't rigid enough to open the case; it just bent.
At this point I should have left it and gone back to the drawing board, but I was frustrated and flustered and casting about for anything that would do the job, I ended up using the metal blade of a set-square. This worked, but either because it wasn't flexible enough or because I was a bit coarse in my technique, I did some damage to the clips.
When I had to open the case a second time, I used a small, very thin and flexible cheese-grater and the case popped open like a dream.
*The four corner screws*
A magnetic screwdriver would have been a godsend for this, but since I didn't have one, I just had to tip the Mini up when the screw was loose and hope it didn't disappear into the workings. Fortunately none of them did. So not everything went wrong. Three of the screws were easy to put back - they could either be pushed or dropped into the holes, but the fourth couldn't be got in either way. Thinking about it afterwards, I realised I could have turned the mini upside down and put the screw on top of the screwdriver and got it in that way. But what I actually did was bite the end off a toothpick, jam it into the screw head and then push it in the hole. Worked a treat.
Note. My instructions said not to worry about the spring on the Airport antenna -"It's not going to fly off." Maybe not, but it can come loose and is then a pain to put back. Suddenly the wire holding the antenna doesn't seem long enough. Before you know it the antenna cable has come off completely, leaving you with the choice to undo all the screws again or forget about using Airport.
*Lifting the chassis*
Some advice tells you to undo all cables and take the chassis off completely, but the advice I followed suggested just undoing the fan control wire and propping the the chassis on a book with the others still attached. This worked fine. I was nervous about pulling on the wire to release the fan control, so I used a fingernail to get under the rim of the plug itself and popped it off that way.
*Fitting the RAM*
This was the easy part, though it didn't snap in as positively as some I've done.
*Putting back the fan control wire*
I put the wire back, as I thought, and powered up the Mini with the lid still off. I checked that the memory was properly installed and was delighted that it was. I vaguely noticed that the Mini was making a lot of noise, but thought that might be because the case was off. In my defence, none of the instructions identified the wire I was disconnecting as the fan control wire; they just called it "the little wire in front". Anyway, I put the lid back on, then realised I had a problem and took it off again. I learned (from Boece) that "the little wire in front" was indeed the fan control wire and saw that it was loose. It took me several tries to get it in. It's in an awkward place, is very small and sometimes appears to go in when it really hasn't. But whereas a few times I thought it had gone in, when it did go in I knew it was in. One of those things you only ever do once, but could do so much more easily the second time.
*Putting the lid back*
Some advice suggests just pushing the lid back, but you can cause damage that way. The clips can get bent out of shape. The best way is to use your cheese-grater or whatever, to gently ease the lid back on.
Conclusion
This was a bad experience; I had visions of ending up with an unusable machine and a void warranty. But in fact it I now have a quiet, working 2GB Mac Mini - and the nightmares have almost stopped. If you're about to try it, take comfort from the fact that you couldn't have as bad an experience as I had. Probably.
Michael

Pretty much describes my experience. I used a relatively thin metal putty knife to take the case off. Not to difficult doing one side at a time. I totally agree, a magnetic screw driver would have been very helpful when replacing the bracket. By far the biggest problem I had was the fan control wire. Very short cord in an awkward location. End of story - all back together with 2gb or ram. Probably toook 35-40 minutes (Including 10-15 fooling around with that lousy fan control wire.)

I converted from a PC to a Mac Mini. I have my PC documents backed up on a DVD disk. I have an external DVD drive connected to the Mac Mini. I want to open them up and save them to the Mac, BUT....when I put the DVD disk in the Mac is NOT reading it!

I converted from a PC to a Mac Mini. I have my PC documents backed up on a DVD disk. I have an external DVD drive connected to the Mac Mini. I want to open these documents up from the DVD storage and save them to the Mac, BUT....when I put the DVD disk in the Mac is NOT reading it!

Hi Joe,
Thanks for your quick response. I should add....it worked before. When I previously inserted the two DVDs into this remote drive, and I went into finder, I could click on the "remote device" line and see all my saved documents (excel, word, etc) on the DVD and open them on the Mac. Now I cannot see them, when I try to open them on the Mac, nothing happens, nothing is displayed. I just re-tested the remote DVD drive with a CD and, no problem, it opened up the CD via iTunes and I cold play the CD. SO......I know the remote DVD drive (it's an LG by the way) is fine, it's something to do with some settings on my mini mac,especially where I could open it previously. I do not remember changing any settings since then.
When I go into system preferences and click on CD/DVD it gives me options of how to open up a music CD (default is iTunes), a DVD (default is iMovie), etc. The problem is my DVD is all miscellaneious files/documents. I just want to be able to see them in the finder. I also tried to open them via microsoft word, from the remote disk and again, it could not open the drive, even though some of the documents were microsoft word documents. Again, I was able to open them previously and the DVD is not corrupted in any way.
Any additional advice?
Thank you!

I up graded my mac mini with a new hard drive and now need ios 10.9 how do i down load it so i can put it back on the mac

how do i get the ios 10.9 so i can put it back on the new hard drive

If the Mac mini shipped with 10.6.8 or earlier, install Mac OS X 10.6, update it to 10.6.8, open the Mac App Store, and download 10.9.
If the Mac mini shipped with 10.7 or newer, connect it to the Internet, restart it with the Command and R keys held down, and install an OS. If this isn't 10.9, open the Mac App Store and download it from there.
(98457)

Hi can i put a ps3 hard drive in my mac mini its is the newest model before the new mac mini came out thank you

hi can i put a ps3 hard drive in my mac mini it was the newest model before the thinner mac mini came out thank you

Yes. You will have to reformat it with the disk utility though.

Dangerous to put stuff on Mac Mini?

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for