Dark Picture in FCP

The canvas in FCP appears dark. If I move the canvas to another screen, the picture is lighter and if I play it to a TV through the camera, it is about the same quality. It is difficult to adjust the quality of the video on my Powerbook when it is dark. I have brightened the screen, but that does not help FCP. I have trashed the preferences.

Sounds like you need to calibrate your computer's display... it's in the display preferences. Click on the color button on your display and then using the "advanced" mode of the calibration you'll find there, you'll most likely get a closer representation of what you are working with.
Bit of advice though: you shouldn't be using your Canvas window for color correction unless you intend to deliver for the web only... the gamma responses aren't the same on your computer display as what a TV set will display, so you should correct using an external video monitor...
That said, you should be doing CC on your calibrated display if you intend delivery for the web...
HTH
Jerry

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I just posted this article about how to recover a dark picture with a heavy
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http://www.braintrove.com/article/58
Greg Collins
Microsoft MVP
Visit Braintrove at http://www.braintrove.com

None taken. I am unfamiliar with ACR and would love to see (compare) what it
could do with the sample PNG file in the article, and how much time it took.
The results I achieved in the article took only a few minutes to
complete--though as I mention below, it took more than a few minutes to get
to the point where I could do it in a few minutes.
I happened across a web site one day discussing the techniques in Margulis'
LAB Color book, which interested me enough to purchase it. I found the book
very enlightening and have seen incredible results using the techniques he
describes as applied to my various images. I've also ready his Professional
Photoshop book which focuses more on CMYK, and found many techniques in
there just as enlightening.
Ultimately the tools and techniques used are irrelevant if you get the
results you want... but if you find one that works faster, easier or better,
then certainly you should employ it.
I have no problem working in RGB, CMYK or LAB and find benefits from each.
The particular sample image I used in the article was one that I've spent
(too much) time cleaning up in various ways and in various color spaces (or
combinations thereof). It became my "poster child" image to work on as I
continue to build my Photoshop skills. The approach I used in the article
was the one I found most to be the fasted with the most effective results.
The original was a 6MP JPG file. I reduced it to the size in the article and
then worked on that size for the remaineder of the article. The resutls are
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Greg Collins
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Visit Braintrove at http://www.braintrove.com

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Helge-
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~Damian

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Actually, here's a clearer image. The middle stroke is with 20% drawing smoothness, and 100% pressure strength.
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http://forums.creativecow.net/cgi-bin/pagewrapper.cgi?forumid=8&page=http://www.creativecow.net/articles/ross_shane/moveme nt_onstills/index.html
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I have the Apple TV 1080p with a panasonic plasma - G10 series. I have 4 choices of HDMI output - Auto, YBrCr (or something like that), RGB high and RGB low. I could barely tell the difference when I selected each of these. I thought the color and brightness were off a bit so I ended up toning down the brightness and contrast on the TV and choosing a cool color setting. The THX setting on the TV made the picture from the Apple TV pretty dim. I've left the Apple TV HDMI output as Auto.

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Hope someone can help with this.
First - very pleased with the new apple tv except for one slight annoyance.
The picture seems to be quite dark. Very noticable when watching movies.
Have adjusted TV settings to compensate, BUT that now means all my other inputs (xbox, PS3 and Sattelite TV) are now too bright!
Have searched for this and have found a solution for the apple TV gen 1 where you can go into audio video settings and change the HDMI output settings.
This option doesnt seem to be available for the Gen 2.
Surely there must be a way to do this. A remote command, a menu item that I just cant see.
Would be the first device with HDMI that I have owned where this was not an option in some menu somewhere. And I assume if it was part of the first Apple TV it must be on here somewhere.
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I have noticed the same problem but thought it was my TV which is CRT. I connect my ATV2 to the TV using S-Video

Dark Picture

I recently converted my home movies and DVD's to Apple TV format using QuickTime PRO (export as Apple TV). They look great on my iMac but dark on the Apple TV. I have the Apple TV connected via HDMI and decided to check and see if it was my videos or the Apple TV that was causing it the picture to be so dark. I looked at the trailers and You Tube and they were noticeably darker as well through the Apple TV. My HDTV seems to show all the other HD channels with no problem (Since the trailers on Apple TV are in HD). It seems I have narrowed it down to the Apple TV.
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In the picture below there are 5 blue keyframes
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Dark pictures with canon 5d mark 3 and 600ex flash, night indoors in Auto Mode and flash on.

I have purchased a new canon 5d mark 3 and speedlight 600ex-rt flash. While testing it indoor at night , the room lights are on and I was using the Auto Mode with Flash on. The pictures are Dark with the Flash on and when the flash is turned off the pictures are brighter. I am confused. How to get the AUto mode working with the Flash on.

Automatic mode, it it's attempt to be reasonably foolproof, is going to lock you out of having any control over the exposure.
The E-TTL metering system on your camera & flash are attempting to find the correct exposure for your subject.
Due to laws of physics (the inverse-square law), light has "fall off". It's not actually possible to use a single light source and expose a large room with that single light. Either the subject is nicely lit but everything else will probably be too dark. OR... the background is nicely lit but the subject is heavily over-exposed. (BTW, there are two ways to get around this.)
The amount of fall-off is based on the relative distance from the light. Every time the distance increases by a factor of 1.4 the amount of light is cut in half. This means if you have subject 10' away, but you have a foreground object only 7' away and a background object 14' away, and the flash is exposed for the subject at 10', then the foreground object will be over-exposed (with twice as much light as needed) and the background will be under-exposed (with half as much libght as needed.) Incidentally... if you "double" or "halve" the distance then the light difference will be 4x or 1/4 (depending on if you are getting closer or farther.)
Here's a video which both explains and then later demonstrates the concept in a way that makes it very obvious to see and easy to understand. If it seems confusing at first... stick with it. The video is only 12 minutes long.
In fully automatic mode the camera wont let you control anything (except how far away you stand from your subject).
If you switch to "Program" mode, it essentially works like automatic mode EXCEPT it will actually allow you to override settings or set compensations.
When you use a flash in a room with some ambient lighting (but otherwise dimly lit) there's a technique called 'dragging the shutter' (which the camera can actually do for you somewhat automatically).
To do that, set the camera to Tv mode (Tv = Time value... which is shutter priority mode). Dial in a slow-ish shutter speed... say around 1/60th of a second. Use a moderately boosted ISO (400 would probably work well... you might even go up higher).
The camera is going to evaluate the exposure needed for the room as though you don't have a flash... and it'll set the camera settings accordingly. However... since it knows you have a flash, it'll still perform the E-TTL II exposure metering and will use the flash anyway. What you end up with is a shot that has a nicely exposed primary subject (because the camera used flash) AND... a nicely exposed background which was primarily illuminated with ambient light -- but looks pretty good because the camera used an exposure that was adequate for the ambient light.
The reason I suggest using Tv mode and NOT Av mode is because you can control the mixture of flash vs. ambient light by controlling the TIME that the shutter is open. But this does NOT work if you control either the aperture or ISO.
Here's why: The flash is "momentary" but the ambient is constant. If you were to adjust the aperture settings, that will increase or decrease ALL the light sources that contribute to the exposure... so it increases (or decreases) the amount of flash AND the amount of ambient light ... and it does them in the same proportions. If you want to bright up the background lighting WITHOUT over-exposing your foreground subject, then you don't want to increase both... you only want to increase the amount of ambient light.
Since the flash is a momentary burst of light, if you leave shutter open longer you wont actually collect any more light from the flash (because the flash was providing illumination for only a tiny fraction of a second. Extending the amount of time that the shutter remains open means the camera will _only_ collect more of the ambient light... and that helps bring up the dark backgrounds.
One way to get around the flash fall-off problem is to greatly increase the distance between flash and subject. You still get "fall off" but now the distance you have to change to notice the fall off really increases. But this method usually isn't very practical because you'll be standing much farther then you'd prefer to be to get the shot.
The second way (and much more practical) is to "drag the shutter" (deliberately use longer shutter times so that the camera can collect more ambient light long after the flash is done.).
Tim Campbell
5D II, 5D III, 60Da

Very dark picture with built-in iSight

Hi,
with my 3 month old intel iMac it seems that the picture I get with the built-in iSight is much darker than with my previous white iMac G5 with built-in iSight.
My new iMac sits in the very same place as my previous iMac G5, yet the picture quality in terms of brightness is only mediocre.
Is there a way for me to adjust the settings for my iSight?
Has anybody else noticed this? Could it be a hardware problem?
Thank you,
Torsten

Have you closed and opened Photo Booth? This is often all that is required.
This also can help:
Open the iChat application>video preview. If it is dark as well select:
iChat>change my picture>take a snap shot. Close iChat and open Photo Booth.
I haven't found the sniper solution yet, it doesn't happen very often.

Optimizing digital pictures for FCP projects

When importing digital pictures, I'm finding a lot of "zebra" effects on the photos when zooming in or out.
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Okay cool - yep I'm using an external Raid 5 as my Capture Scratch
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FCP Support Profile
Final Cut Pro Documents
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Render Files
STP Edited Media
STP Projects
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Hey, i just bought my HP pavilion dv6-6135dx 4 weeks ago at new hampshire. no here's what happened.
So 2 weeks in after i got my hp pavilion laptop i had encountered a virus, after getting this virus i had to reinstall windows 7
by restarting the computer and pressing f11 to load up hp system restore. After that i went on the support and drivers page
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after doing so i went on cyberlink youcam and the screen appeared very dark, i could see my self but it was a black silhoutte
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I even tried another webcam program.
That didn't work.
So then i tried disabling the webcam software and enabling it again. But the picture was still the same
AFTER THAT i uninstalled the HD truvision driver and installed it back again
BUT STILL nothing changed. I've went on over 10 other forums which discussed this same issue but all of them
simply suggested to change the lighting and brightness settings, which as you have seen have not work.
To add on to this problem i don't think i will be able to return this laptop because it is way pass the return date
but im still not sure if i can do that since i don't have the bus because as i have mentioned i bought this from
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Remeber i went to 10 other forums so changing the brightness will not work lol and i had pictures.....

guys i finally found out the fix for it!!! i guess we all would have had changed the brightness contrast exposure for the betterment, but it really screws the settings!!! will tell you the steps.. i use youcam 3.5 so just follow my instructions!!!
1. open youcam
2. click enhance the current video image (6th icon from top, just next to the video image appears, place ur pointer over the icons for few secs to know what it is)
3. Click advanced
4. under video proc amp slide the backlight comp to 1 or 2 (doesnt matter )
5, now click the camera control tab
6. click default, then u could see only exposure visible or editable , now just tick the "auto" box !!! click ok.
and now everything is back!!! hope this helps out, and dont screw up with the settings again!!! thank you

Dark Picture in FCP

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