Dead 23" cinema display?

I have an issue with a 23" cinema display. The display does not power on. The LED gives a 3 blink sequence of short, long, short, which I believe indicates an improper power supply. I have tried 2 different known-good power supplies with the same result. Anyone know if this issue is resolvable?

Any update with this? I am having same issue with my Cinema Display!

Similar Messages

  • Dead 23" Cinema Display? (not getting power)

    So I've been in tech **** this week... MobileMe not working, MacBook hard drive dying, Time Capsule giving me ****, etc etc etc. But now let's add another to all that:
    My 23" Cinema Display seems to be dead.
    At first I thought it was just the PSU, which I could deal with. *****, but not the end of the world. However I just tested the PSU on a different 23" CD, and it worked. What else could possibly be wrong? The display is getting no power at all.

    Any update with this? I am having same issue with my Cinema Display!

  • 24' Cinema Display with Dead Pixel

    I just exchanged an LED Cinema Display under AppleCare for the blinking/cord problem. Got the new one set up and see that it has a dead pixel. Is there a fix for these, especially being brand new, or do I have to exchange this one too?
    Running tests it is very visible on a black background, then blue, and slightly on a green background. Red and white backgrounds make it so that the pixel is not a visible problem.

    When I chose my LED Display, I refused two monitors because of dead pixels (green pixels on full filled white background). All of them I tried to order in on-line shops.
    When I found out that Apple use LG panels for the LED Display and I understood that I have to go to the off-line shop and choose the display by myselfl. I met 2 years ago with usual LG TFT displays on my work - they all had dead pixels. (IMHO, LG is not good).
    I came to one shop and there were 2 Apple LED displays - one at the exposition and one in the storehouse. Of course I wanted new one from storehouse and let manager know beforehand about not going to buy if dead pixels. He brought up the display from storehouse, unpacked, plugged and I personally start to check. I changed the background to whole white and pointed into two green pixels. "***", - I said to the manager - couldn't believe that the display costs crazy money (in Ukraine - $1400-1500) and everyone with dead pixels!
    I also have 20" NEC display with perfect IPS panel that I bought 3 years ago for $800. And I should leave the buying of the Apple LED Display and back to my favourite and proven NEC it could be the right decision as you'll see below .
    But the manager offer me to check the exhibition example - he assured me that exhibition one is also absolutely new and stood only 5 days in the shop. We plug it, set the background to white and ... "O, miracle! No dead pixels! After three checked displays! Can't belive!" - and this one was really total perfect.
    So I forgot about to buy new NEC instead of Apple display. Brought Apple LED Display to home, connected to my brand new MBP 13, compared to my old NEC - everythnig was perfect, colors and overall picture are better than old NEC.
    I was happy ... BUT JUST FOR ONE WEEK! It started to blink/flash/blackout - this is the known problem as I found out later: http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=1902288&tstart=0
    I'm very disappointed because I realize that if I give it for guarantee service and they offer me to change it - I'm sure that I'll got the display with dead pixels and I don't want it! So I hope that it the software/firmware trouble and it'll be fixed in the next MacOS update. If no - it'll be the disaster because I'll not be able to return the display and give my money back from the one hand (under Ukrainian laws the money back period of goods is 14 days), and I don't want to give the guarantee replacement with dead pixels!
    Sorry for large text I had to to unburden myself!

  • How can I know if a Cinema Display 22 inch ADC is dead ?

    Hi,
    I bought a 22 inch ADC Cinema Display for my PowerMac G4/400 (Gigabit Ethernet). I upgraded the PowerMac with an ATI Radeon 7500 graphic card and a Sonnet 1Ghz processor. I'm running 10.4.9 and have the latest ATI driver for the card.
    When I plugged the ADC cable, the computer started but the display didn't light up. All lights are off and the USB ports are not powered. If I unplug he PowerMac, plug the display and plug the PowerMac back, I can't start it using the power button (on the display neither).
    I checked and rechecked my PowerMac and Cinema display specs and requirements and everything should be compatible. Is my Cinema Display dead ? How can I know for sure ? Are there any drivers I must install ?

    I'm having a similar problem, only it's recurring on several Cinema Display monitors on different machines.
    One thing we have been able to figure out is that the problem appears to be the power brick. By repeatedly unplugging and wiggling the power cord at the brick, the monitor will eventually come back on... until you restart it.
    This is VERY frustrating for such expensive monitors (not to mention being Apple products). I suspect the problem lies with faulty power bricks, and I'll be following up with Applecare to see what they have to say about it.
    - Alex Locke
    PowerMac G5 Dual Processor   Mac OS X (10.4.5)  

  • Hello everyone, hoping for some help with my new Apple Cinema Display 20"

    Hi everyone, I bought an Apple Cinema Display 20 inch LCD monitor, just about 3 weeks ago. I have two issues I am hoping to get some help with.
    1) I am using the screen on a PC with Windows XP, and I was very disappointed at the lack of PC support. I have no on screen display (OSD), so I can't see what percentage I have my brightness set to, and I can't alter the colour or contrast of the display, etc. Luckily it defaulted to very good settings, but I would really like to be able to use the (fan made?) program called "WinACD". If I would be best asking somewhere else, please direct me there. If not, my problem is that I installed it added the "Controls" tab, but it just says, Virtual Control Panel "None Present". I have tried googling for an answer, and I have seen many suggestions, but none of them worked. I installed the WinACD driver without my USB lead plugged in, and someone said that was important. So I have tried uninstalling, rebooting, then reinstalling it again with the USB plugged in, and a device plugged in to my monitor to be sure. It didn't seem to help. I have actually done this process a few times, just to be sure. So I would really like to get that working if possible.
    2) I am disappointed at the uniformity of the colour on the display. I have seen other people mention this (again, after a google search), and that someone seemed to think it is just an issue we have to deal with, with this generation of LCD monitors. Before I bought this screen, I had an NEC (20wgx2), and it had a very similar issue. Most of the time, you cannot see any problem at all, but if you display an entire screen with a dark (none prime) colour, like a dark blue green colour, you can see areas where it is slightly darker than others. It was more defined on the NEC screen, and that is why I returned it. I now bought this Apple Cinema Display, because it was the only good alternative to the NEC. (It has an 8bit S-IPS / AS-IPS panel, which was important to me). But the problem exists in this screen too. It isn't as bad thankfully, but it still exists... I have actually tried a third monitor just to be sure, and the problem existed very slightly in that one, so I think I am probably quite sensitive in that I can detect it.
    It is most noticable to me, because I do everything on this PC. I work, I watch films, and I play games. 99% of the time, I cannot see this problem. But in some games (especially one)... the problem is quite noticeable. When you pan the view around, my eyes are drawn to the slight areas on my screen which are darker, and it ruins my enjoyment. To confirm it wasn't just the game, like I said, I can use a program to make the entire screen display one solid colour, and if you pick the right type of colour (anything that isn't a bright primary colour), I can see the problem - albeit fairly faintly.
    I am pretty positive that it is not my graphics card or any other component of my PC, by the way, because everything is brand new and working perfectly, and the graphics card specifically, I have upgraded and yet the problem remains - even on the new card. Also, the areas that are darker, are different on this screen than on the other screens I have used.
    So basically, I would like to register my disappointment at the lack of perfect uniformity on a screen which cost me £400 (over double what most 20 inch LCD screens cost), and I would like to know if anybody could possibly suggest a way to fix it?
    It is upsetting, becuase although this problem exists on other screens too, this is, as far as I know, the most expensive 20" LCD monitor available today, and uses the best technology available too.
    p.s. If anyone would like to use the program that lets you set your entire PC screen a specific colour, it is called "Dead Pixel Buddy", and it is a free piece of software, made by somebody to check for dead pixels. But I found it useful for other things too, including looking at how uniform the colour of the screen is. That's not to say I was specifically looking for this problem by the way... the problem cought my eye.
    Thanks in advance!
    Message was edited by: telelove

    I've been talking about this on another forum too, and I made some pictures in photoshop to describe the problem. Here is what I posted on the other forum:
    Yes, "brightness uniformity" definitely seems to be the best description of my issue.
    Basically it just seems like there are very faint lines down the screen, that are slightly darker than the other areas on the screen. They aren't defined lines, and they aren't in a pattern. It's just slight areas that are darker, and the areas seem like narrow bands/lines. Usually you can't see it, but in some cases, it is quite noticeable. It is mainly when I'm playing a game. The slightly darker areas are not visible, and then when the image moves (because I am turning in a car, or turning a plane, or turning in a shooter etc.) the image moves, but these slightly darker areas stay still, and that makes them really stand out.
    As for how it looks, I tried to make an example in photoshop:
    Original Image:
    http://img340.imageshack.us/img340/3045/td1ja9.jpg
    Then imagine turning the car around a bend, and then it looks like this:
    http://img266.imageshack.us/img266/959/td2hq7.jpg
    It's those lines in the clouds. If you can tab between the two images, you can see the difference easily. Imagine seeing those lines appear, every single time you move in a game. (I haven't tested this in movies yet, but I am assuming it's the same).
    It isn't very clear on a static image. But when the image moves, the darker areas stay in the same place and it draws your eyes towards them. It isn't terrible, but it is annoying, especially consider how much this screen cost.
    Message was edited by: telelove

  • Is it possible to mirror from a G5 to a Cinema display?

    There was a recent post here that addresses this, but my (likely very stupid) question is--isn't it possible to use a mini vga to vga and a dvi to vga adapter to connect your iMac to a Cinema display? Or does the dvi to vga adapter only go one way?
    I'm assuming from the thread mentioned above that this is essentially impossible without a lot of finagling. The website for converters linked shows a VGA to DVI-A converter, but I'm assuming DVI-A is different from DVI?
    I was originally told by an Apple store salesperson--who, in retrospect, clearly had no clue what he was talking about--that the Cinema display would work with my iMac, no problem.
    Unfortunately... I bought a second-hand one off ebay, so now I'm stuck with a monitor that I can't even check the display on (which will probably make reselling it on ebay difficult.) So I'm trying to figure out once and for all if this is impossible and I should just give up, cut my losses, and get a VGA display instead.
    I went into the Apple store today and the ditzy girl I spoke with informed me that "the people in the back" said that it wasn't at all possible to mirror my G5 onto a Cinema display. She clearly didn't know anything beyond what size ipods they carry (if even that), so I'm hoping someone a little more knowledgeable (or maybe even someone who's tried it?) can clarify for me, because the extent of my hardware-related expertise is 'how to install RAM.'
    Thanks in advance for any help!
    (And lesson learned: never count on Apple store salespeople for any information--ever.)

    Thanks for your response Donna! Further research has found me some more clear-cut answers.
    I've read a few success stories of people using the VGAtor to convert their iMac's output from VGA to DVI but I'm apprehensive since it costs $300, and there's no mention of a return policy on their website that I can find. I tried emailing them about compatibility/return policy so I guess we'll see. (The success stories I speak of are in the forum for Screen Spanning Doctor, but the forum's been dead for almost a year now.)
    Gefen's VGA to DVI Scaler seems to be better supported, but that's up to $330.
    I don't want to use a TV, because I'm a graphic designer so I need higher resolution than any TV in my price range can offer.
    But I think I will probably be going with a VGA display though just to save myself the headache. Even if I ended up losing $300 in reselling this display to get one, it would be no different than spending $300 just for a converter--I'm not convinced that the Cinema displays are worth it, when I could get something similar for under $400. If I had wanted to spend $1000 on this upgrade I would've just sold my G5 for a new 24" one.
    I agree it would've been much smarter if they had just made their own DVI adapter, since they DO exist (and enabled screen spanning in the G5, at that.) Or, even more radical... just added a VGA input to their displays--there are plenty of monitors out there with both, so obviously it's possible. If they had actually made the displays compatible with like 90% of their pre-existing systems they could have sold exponentially more. It would have been far more profitable--I love Apple computers, but I'm sure I'm not the only one choosing to buy another brand of monitor rather than fork out thousands to upgrade the display of a perfectly good computer.
    Well, forgive my rambling. In case someone else is curious, I'll wait to see if I get a response to my email, then update and close this.
    Unfortunately now I've gotta lug it on the metro to get it tested, since taking it to the Apple store seems to be my only option right now.

  • Apple TV not working with new 23" cinema display

    OK so I finally found a functional use for my new Apple TV, which has been sitting unused in my living room. My MacBook Pro already connects to the HD projector in there, so Mac TV is just less functionality and redundant.
    I decided the only use I have for a keyboardless Mac interface for just music, podcasts, photos, and videos is the bathtub.
    Being the Mac fanboy that I am, I wanted the solution to be all Apple.
    So I headed down to my local Apple Store with the intention of buying a new 23" Cinema Display for my Apple TV and an iPod HiFi for the sound. I was dismayed to see them showing off the Apple TV on Sony LCD TVs. Why wouldn't Apple want to sell people a triple-play package and have it set up as a demo? After all, they weren't selling the Sony TVs anyway.
    But my first sign of trouble was the very nice store employee who didn't know if the Apple TV would work on a cinema display. But he definitely wanted to find out when I got home. Searching here, I found posts that seem to confirm that it would work, but the actual source is related to an older ADC cinema display, not the new ones.
    I set everything up and used a Toslink-minijack adapter to run the optical digital audio from the Apple TV to the iPod Hifi. I used an HDMI-DVI-D adapter to connect the cinema display to the Apple TV. I powered it all up.
    I got the white Apple logo on the screen, then everything went black. I used the Menu and + keys on the remote for 6 seconds to cycle through the resolutions. Still all black. I used the Menu and - keys on the remote to reset to factory settings. Again booted into blackness.
    Interestingly, while using the + and - keys on the Apple TV remote, the iPod HiFi volume was lowered and raised simultaneously with the moving of the menu selections in Apple TV (I could hear the clicks). What this means is, 2 remotes, each paired to each device, will be needed for proper operation. This is why having too simple a remote is lame.
    At this point I am dead in the bathtub water. I drop more money on Apple than it costs to get a new iMac (which is plan B) just so I can give the Apple TV a shot in my bathroom. But it all doesn't fit seemlessly together on first try.
    Any suggestions? Could the HDMI-DVI-D adapter be blocking the HDCP signal needed to display an image? Is DVI-D the wrong adapter to use? Any help is appreciated.

    I've not been convinced a monitor will work with the tv, but I have to accept the word of those that have had success. I'm not so certain that a monitor is a suitable first choice, maybe if you have one lying around OK, but to buy one instead of a tv is not only a very expensive alternative but even if it works you will have no way of controlling the brightness etc.
    Any suggestions? Could the HDMI-DVI-D adapter be blocking the HDCP signal needed to display an image? Is DVI-D the wrong adapter to use?
    Possibly, Did you ever manage to repeat getting the apple logo or indeed anything even if only for a few seconds. DVI-D or DVI-I would be the right connector, don't use a DVI-A

  • How Can I Test New Apple Cinema Display?

    My new 30" Apple Cinema Display arrived today but the arrival of my MacBook Pro is still 4 weeks out (I ordered both at the same time for dual warranty purposes). I cannot hook this ACD to my wife's 12" PB and the only other computer that may have the ability is my daughter's new iMac Intel Core Duo (but I'm not sure if it will power the 30" ACD). I would like to test for stuck or dead pixels. Can I plug the AC cord into an outlet and no video connection then power on or will this show no pixel anomolies, or worse, cause potential harm to my display? Anyone? Thanks to all that may reply.
    PS: I threatened to cancel my order unless the Supervisor allowed me time to evaluate the new monitor the full 2 weeks AFTER the arrival of my MacBook Pro, so I have plenty of time, just no computer to run the darn thing!
    PowerBook G4 12" aluminum & iMac Intel Core Duo   Mac OS X (10.4.5)   Apple 30" Cinema Display w/ iLift LCD monitor arm

    I think pretty much any Mac with DVI will drive the 30" ACD, just not at the native resolution. You will get 1280x800. But if you are just looking at a solid full screen of a single color, for the purpose of trying to spot dead/stuck pixles, the low res shouldn't make any difference at all for such purposes.

  • Mac Pro & 30" Cinema Display issue

    I've got a weird problem. I've been running two 30" Cinema displays of my first-gen Mac Pro for several years now. I did replace the stock video card with a Radeon 5770 video card earlier this year when the stock card failed, but otherwise no problems with the displays until last week.
    I had to temporarily disconnect all peripherals from the Mac Pro to do some work on my desk. After putting everything back together, there were no problems until about a week later when one of the displays went blank. No image, no power light, no nothing. I first suspected that I may not have reconnected that display's cable securly enough, but it checked out OK. Then I thought maybe the cable had developed an internal continuity problem, so I wiggled all leads - especially the power cord at the power brick - but no luck there, either.
    My next best guess was that there was a problem with the power brick to which the problem display was connected, so I swapped bricks; the problem stayed with the monitor. This proved that the problem was not the brick
    Then I thought that perhaps the dual-link DVI port on the Radeon card to which this particular monitor was connected had gone bad, so I swapped the two monitors at the card. The problem followed the monitor.
    At this point I figured the monitor was formally and permanently dead. Then one day, while working with Aperture using the remaining display, the "defective" display came back on! I had created no sudden motion, done no cable wiggling, no nothing. I was just sitting there when - to use one of Steve Jobs's favorite sayings - "boom", it came on. I worked away for several hours with both displays working fine. Then I put the Mac to sleep.
    When I returned to the Mac later and woke it up, the problem display was dark yet again. Since then, that display has come and gone several times. No pattern whatsoever.
    Has anyone seen this before and, if so, have you found an explanation or, better still, a solution?

    Is that the only time (during boot up) and only manifestation (lines in the Apple) of the issue? Have you tried the Flurry screen saver? If it is related to a DVI transmission problem (DVI noise), the Flurry screen saver is an excellent test pattern for revealing that type of problem.

  • 23" Cinema Display and Powerbook battery

    I have a battery problem or possibly an Apple Cinema Display problem that ruined my battery. I bought my computer over three years ago and I have replaced the battery once already. I had been getting good performance from the second battery until I was finally able to pull my ACD out of storage (lenghty remodel). Using my ACD I was having to leave my computer plugged in all the time ( I don't recall that being necessary before) and it seems to have completely sapped my battery. I get at most 30 minutes on the battery now. I am not sure I want to put the money into another battery only to have the Cinema Display ruin it...can it do that, or it is just a dead battery?

    Well I just got a 23 inch display which i was told is the new spec. Contrast ratio of 700. The picture is brilliant and bright, but like the two i sent back (which i believe were the old spec) it still has a lot of light leakage on full black. You don't notice this when the screen is operating normally. When i sent back the first two apple displays, I got a Dell 24 inch. No light leakage at all and quite a nice looking machine with loads more interface options. However, the picture, though good, looks dull compared to this new 23 inch.
    Den UK

  • Cinema Display 30" and MBP - No Picture

    I have a 2.16 Core Duo Macbook Pro 17". Today I purchased a 30" Cinema Display at the Apple store.
    Because of issues I had heard about I had the Apple employees help me open the box and plug in the monitor to a Macbook Pro on the floor to check for dead and hot pixels and other screen problems. None found. I was so psyched!
    I get it home and set it up. I run the DVI cable over to my Macbook Pro and nothing... The MBP screen goes blue and then refreshes when the monitor is attached or detached like it detects it, but under system profiler it never registers an additional display (and I did refresh the info). The soft power button on the Cinema Display triggers my computer to give me the shut down/sleep dialog so something is registering.
    Basically everything works on the display but the picture. I just get a black screen. I hooked up my wife's G4 1.67 and it drives the screen just fine with a picture.
    Any thoughts?

    I have owned a MacBook Pro (15" / 2.16GHz / 2GB) and 30" Cinema HD Display since September 2006.
    The display's DVI, USB, and FireWire cables are all connected to the MacBook Pro. A keyboard (with mouse) and iPod dock are connected to the display's USB ports, and two LaCie D2 drives are connected to the display's FireWire ports.
    The display has remained blank at start-up on two occasions, both since upgrading to Mac OS X 10.5, though that may be coincidental. In any event, unplugging the display's USB cable from the MacBook Pro had the effect of waking the display; plugging the display's USB cable back into the MacBook Pro put the display to sleep.
    Try disconnecting the USB and FireWire cables from the MacBook Pro and unplugging any peripherals attached to the display. I found that everything worked fine when reconnected.

  • Recent Leopard Update Messes up Cinema Display Firewire Ports

    Okay, this is really odd. I have a Lacie Porsche DVD-RWDL Firewire drive hooked up to my Mac Pro via my 23" Cinema display. The cinema display firewire cable was connected directly to the back of the mac pro. Lastly my iSight was connected to the open firewire port on the Lacie. This worked just fine for the longest time under both Tiger and up until very recently in leopard.
    Now tho the DVD Drive is not recognized by any programs (Toast, etc) or by System Profiler (Unknown Device) when it is connected to the cinema display. Oddly enough it is detected when connected directly to the mac pro (or for troubleshooting sake I tried my G4 cube w/ Tiger... it also detected it). On top of that the iSight will work when plugged into either the Lacie or the Cinema Display... so its not like the cinema display's pots are dead (the USB works fine).
    This is pretty obscure I know... but has anyone ran into something similar? I figure its either some very, very weird hardware problem or or one of the many recent updates to leopard has things acting goofy.
    Thanks

    I have a similar problem with my 20" cinema display. Try unplugging and replugging the device. That's been working for me, although it is an annoyance.

  • External Cinema Display looks fuzzy when connected to 24" iMac...

    Hey
    I have a new iMac (aluminum with black rim screen) and a new 23" Cinema Display. I have connected them both together and am using the Cinema Display in extended desktop mode as the main screen. The resolution is set to the maximum but all the icons and windows look slightly fuzzy. I have no idea why and at a dead end. Any advice would be much appreciated.

    Hi B Boy26
    In the preference panel try setting the resoultion at 1920 x 1200 for the display, thats the (optimum resolution) for the 23"
    Here are the spec's: http://www.apple.com/displays/specs.html
    Also check in the "Display" section of the forum:
    http://discussions.apple.com/category.jspa?categoryID=111
    Dennis

  • 20" Apple Cinema Display - Dim Backlight Fixed! (Sorta)

    Well... as many other Apple Cinema Display owners have experienced the infamous dim backlight with the "short short long blink" - I have some wierd news to report...
    Mine got fixed last night on total accident.
    Last night there was a huge storm in my area and there was a lot of lighting and massive down pour of rain, stay with me honest I have a point.
    My G5 was on last night while I was asleep in the other room within visual range of the display. There was a lighting strike on my property about 20' from where my office is which is on the corner of the house. The lighting hit the tree and send an obvious surge of power into my house and zapped some electronics.
    Wireless router, cable modem, and thermal label printer all bit the dust - and the USB ports on the back of the ADC display. I jumped up from the sleep and saw the monitor light up out of screen saver because the house shook so hard. I ran over to the machine and tried to move the mouse and keyboard and no go since the USB ports are burned out, but the monitor was FULLY LIT UP. I have unplugged the monitor and plugged it back in multiple times, turned the machine off and let it sit and it still is working great minus the USB ports.
    My hunch is this... because of the dead USB ports which are no longer drawing any power, is it possible that the USB ports are the cause of the "short short long blink"?
    My screen went dead initially when it was in a deep sleep mode and NEVER came out of it until now.
    So basically what I am suggesting is that someone try and unhook the USB (if it is even possible) and see if that helps with their display - if not, I guess I am just lucky and my Apple Cinema Display is just lucky to not have fully bit the dust.
    -Jonathan
    Dual PowerMac G5   Mac OS X (10.4.10)   20" Apple Cinema Display (Clear)

    We can't answer that because that's going to depend on who you talk to. By the book, AppleCare covers defects and not accidental damage, so you could get a No answer if they determine it was not due to a defect. But realistically, sometimes you talk to someone who decides to use their ability to authorize an exception and get it fixed anyway. The only way to find out is to call AppleCare.

  • Cinema display 30" power plug caught on fire

    Hi everyone,
    I have a 30" Apple Cinema display (A1083) purchased in 2008. Recently, it's power cable/wire came slightly unplugged from the 150w power supply while the monitor was on. The wire was still plugged in, but it was at a fairly severe angle. Spontaneously, sparks flew between the power supply and power cable/wire and fire shot out of the power supply melting the plastic around the cable. Needless to say but the monitor went dead at that moment.
    I had another power supply laying around so I plugged that in to see if the power cable/wire would still work. The monitor came on for a while but then more sparks and the monitor went dead.
    Apple no longer makes this monitor and apple care is expired (of course). Therefore, I figured I would fix this myself. By some miracle I found the entire set of cables on eBay and purchased them.
    My question is:
    Should I replace the entire set of cables, which would involve opening up the monitor? Or, should I just replace the power cable/wire at the end which would involve some soldering, etc.
    Also, are there any tips, directions, pointers that anyone has for doing any of this? I found one guy online who opened up the case but that is a risky move.http://www.eliteweblabs.com/recent/cinema-display-cable-fix/
    I'm upset my beautiful monitor isn't working and really need some help getting it back, if possible. What do you guys think?
    -B

    Amazon 1
    Amazon 2
    Amazon 3
    Shinza
    TechRestore

Maybe you are looking for

  • Premiere Pro CS5 Playback and Performance Issues

    I upgraded (2) separate editing work stations to CS5 from CS4 about a month ago. I moved from 4 to 5 to try and get rid of some problems which both work stations were encountering. The problems since the upgrade are similiar: playback from timeline h

  • Iplanet web server 6.0 ACL question

    Hi, I am using ACLs to protect some of my URLs in iplanet web server 6.0. I am getting one problem. Its not a problem actually but would like to know how to avoid authenticating the users 2 times. In my ACL file, when ever I create an entry for a pat

  • How can scripts and  smart forms send to mail and pdf?

    HI i want to know how script and smartforms will send to mail and pdf formates>?

  • Is 720P  960 or 1280 pixels wide?

    In FCP, the Preset choices for Sequence Settings include DVCPro 720P, which turns out to be 960 pixels wide. Panasonic brags that their D2 camera (which I just shot my first footage with) is 1280 pixels wide. Then there is the Canvas "view as square

  • Re: Use PowerShell to Find Metadata from Photograph Files

    Hi, Just read the new blog and thought i'd try it. I got as far as setting and calling the $picMetaData for a folder. It didn't list anything when i just has a TIF file in there but when i created a jpg version of the same file it listed the details