Dead G4

Hello!
I've got a G4 (Sawtooth) with a 1 GHz processor upgrade. It has been working fine for the last couple of years, and I've replaced the fans to quieter ones several years ago. Today I decided to replace my graphics card, so I shut my machine down, replaced the card, and then tried pressing the power button. No reaction. The button did not even light up. I tried putting back my old card, but to no avail.
I have no other mac, but I've got a PC that's broken, so I tried using the PSU from that (thinking that the PSU of the mac could be dead), resulting in a weak sizzling sound from the power button and a smell of something burning. I quickly disconnected the PSU. I tried connecting the mac's PSU to the PC, and the fan of the PSU started, but the motherboard of the PC is dead anyways, so I knew it wouldn't start.
I'm thinking the card for the power button could be fried, and hoping it's the only thing that's damaged. Any other suggestions? Anything I should try first?
Thankful for any help,
Martin

Thank you for the link. I know you shouldn't use a different power supply, without knowing anything about it, but I checked and the specifications were fairly similar. However, I think that only the power supply was fried, because when I tried with the mac's PSU again, it started! I re-assembled it again, and now it works. However, the reset button doesn't work at all. I'm thinking the alignment of the front card relative to the buttons is somewhat off, and that might have something to do with the problem. And I also believe that my PRAM battery is dead...

Similar Messages

Stuck: Need Disk repair but DVD drive dead and only have USB 1

[1 Ghz flat-panel iMac with USB 1 ports (no USB 2) and also Firewire 400]
I noticed a strange discrepancy (small but concerning) between the size of a folder on hard drive (folder of all mp3's with no subfolders) and the backup of the same folder on a mounted thumb drive.
(The size difference was not due to any invisible .DS_Store files and both folders are displayed in List view format.)
Disk Utility reports three things:
1. Incorrect number of thread records
2. Volume Bit Map needs minor repair
3. Checking volume information.
Volume free block count",0) [I might have mangled this line]
(It should be 13438611 instead of 13437937)
Here is the GOOD (but these are useless as explained under the "Bad"):
- I have a Tiger 10.4 boot DVD for a repair ==>but see below
- I also have a Disk Warrior disk (never used)
Here is the BAD:
- My built-in optical drive [Pioneer DVD-RW DVR-105] is -- I now discover - defunct and DEAD - it does not run the Tiger Boot DVD (in pristine shape).
- I bought an external SuperDrive (unopened) but I believe no boot from USB 1 is possible in PowerPC so a SuperDrive with USB 1 is useless.
Questions:
1.) Is there any way to boot from some external source (optical drive is DEAD) to run Disk Utility and/or Disk Warrior? -- I see none in this case! (gulp).
2.) More importantly (and this is my fundamental concern): Do the three Disk Utility hard drive issues constitute any direct threat to the integrity of my files?
I have almost everything backed up to duplicate thumb drives over these many months as standard practice.
Are these Disk Utility errors fully isolated to hard drive directory-keeping...or do these directory damage errors pose the possibility of mangling or harming my files or their metadata (filesize, etc.).
Put another way, when files are backed-up from a hard drive under the Disk Utility reports above, do they remain unharmed and undamaged by the situations reported by Disk Utility?
Thanks,
Bill

Jeff and Michael,
Thank you both for your generous and thoughtful input.
Michael: As I slept on it overnight, the exact same idea occurred to me of trying a Target Mode to the iMac from my Lion MacbookPro (I have it but stupidly have yet to use it much!).
I did buy a Firewire 800 (MBP) to Firewire 400 (iMac) adapter cable a few months ago!
CONCERN: Would there be potential compatibility issues or risks in running Lion 10.7's Disk Utility against the hard drive of the old OSX 10.4 iMac in Target Disk Mode?
==> Assuming an "it's ok" answer to the Target Disk question, would the majority of users agree that the Target Disk Mode would be more prudent than running:
fsck -fy in Single User Mode
I have never done fsck -fy before especially because I was under the impression there were issues with Journaled drived but from what I have read today...it looks ok to do)
Jeff: Can't thank you enough for the reference to the OTW DVD drive. I might first invest $10 in one of those DVD lens cleaner disks that I've read about. It's probably not the issue or else why would the drive read commercial Music cds perfectly well!
Thanks,
Bilil

New C310 - Wireless working FAIL - Printer's wireless network seems to be dead

Product: HP Photosmart Premium C310
OS: Windows Vista 64 bit and Windows 7 64 Bit
Error: Wireless working: FAIL
Changes: No changes since this is the first install of this printer ever
Description:
I've just unpacked my new C310 as a replacement for my older HP Inktjet 3845.
But when trying to install the wireless network everything I try seems to fail.
Printer doesn't detect my wireless network (blue wireless led is blinking 1sec on - 1sec off )
HP Network test tool on my laptop (standing next to the printer to test it's location ) gives no issues whatsoever, wireless network is strong and working very well.
Settings of the wifi connection are WPA security, no WPS, Channel 11, ... .
When I run a Wireless Network Test report from the printer menu, the result is (= printout)
* Wireless On => PASS
* Wireless Working => FAIL
* All the other points below are on status NOT RUN so no connection at all ...
Solutions tested:
Tried to reboot printer while waiting 1 minute in between => No result
Reset to factory settings straight on the printer => No result
Tried to run the Wireless network Setup Wizzard several times without merit.
Explanations on the forums seemed to be that this might be a faulty wireless network card in the printer?
Since this is one of the reasons of buying this item, I do need it to work.
Can anyone provide me advice/next steps?
Kind regards,
Raf

Great info and troubleshooting, thanks!
Unfortunately, I think you have a dead radio. This is how to contact HP support: www.hp.com/go/totalcare
Say thanks by clicking "Kudos" "thumbs up" in the post that helped you.
I am employed by HP

Saving the data from a dead library

So I've given up trying to rebuild my library (see here: http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=11544400&#11544400) and was wondering if anyone had any thoughts on how I could extract the projects from an Aperture 3 library.
In an Aperture 2 library you could view the package contents and each project was bundled into a package along with all setting, versions, etc. This is not the case with A3. If you view the package contents of and A3 library everything is spread out. Masters, Projects, Folders and Version are separate from one another.
Any thoughts?
I've many of my projects backed up but recent work that consisted of a lot of image processing is now lost in the dead library.

I think I have recovered my library. I'm in the process of checking the projects to see if they are all intact.
Here is what I did:
1: Created a new empty library
2: Quit Aperture
3: Viewed the contents of the package of the new library and viewed the contents of the old damaged library
4: Moved the "Masters" folder from the old to the new library
5: Moved the "Aperture.aplib" folder from the old to the new library
6: Moved the "ApertureData.xml" file from the old to the new library
7: I then opened the "Database" folder in the old library and copied the following folders: "Albums", "Folders" and "Versions"
Everything else I left behind.
I then launched Aperture by doubleclicking on the new library while holding the Command and Alt keys and selected "Rebuild Library" from the Library First Aid panel.
Aperture then began processing all the content. 10900 images later Aperture launched showing all projects and images.
Looks good so far...

Creative Zen 32GB - Is it Dead?

Hi. I bought a Creative Zen 32gb Flash player in January 2009.
It was mostly OK for the first year or so. By then, it was almost full.
Last summer, it began crashing on me every so often. I assumed it was just because it was almost full, but as time went on it crashed more and more.
Sometimes it would play slightly garbled songs, almost like in the good old days when your cassette deck would chew up your D-90s.
When using the locking function, it would crash completely, requiring the judicious use of a pin to reset it.
Then it would crash when plugging it into headphones or the cable connecting to my AUX port on my car stereo.
The other day, it crashed and I thought - right, its been going a couple of years now, I'll back it up and then go into recovery mode, clean up the memory and then reboot, as recommended in the user guide. I tried backing up the player but it got about halfway through and crashed out.
I then thought to hell with it - I've got most of my music backed up anyway, and the clean up might not mess with it too much, so I tried to follow the cleanup instructions but everytime I let go of the Play button, it would crash out.
If I held the play button down, it would work, but the buttons are so close together, if I changed pressure on the play button while selecting "clean up", it would crash out. Still, I thought I'd managed it but it would not restart or dock, or pretty much do anything except let me go into recovery mode (while pressing Play, of course).
I then thought I'd just reformat the player - again, through the recovery menu since it would not dock with my PC (Win Vista, 32bit). That made no difference. It would not start, would not dock etc etc.
I then thought I would upgrade the firmware, downloaded it from Creative, and managed to get it to go so far, before it crashed out. And that's it - I can just about get it to start, sometimes, and then the screen will go black, or white, or red and black striped once. It will not dock at all. I can press reset as much as I like but the best I can get it to do is get to the recovery menu for a few seconds before crashing, or I can get it to display the Creative logo for a few seconds before, again, it crashes.
Its sat right now with a black screen and the blue light on. I cannot turn it off, or get any response from it at all.
So, is this now a dead mp3 player? Is it likely a hardware fault? If firmware/software, is there any way to fix this or should I just chalk this up to experience and accept that ?60 odd of mp3 player just isn't built to last very long?
And if its dead, what to replace it's I want Creative stuff to be better than it seems to be, and I am loathe to buy iPod. Sony? Wife has one and its fine, but not enough storage. Any recommendations?

Stormgeer wrote:
I've had my Zen32GB for a year and have loved it up to this morning. I added a few photos to it and now its been stuck in "Rebuilding" for the last two hours. I can dock it and get into it, copy files, etc, but it will not play. I have been using a handy pin to reset it, then it goes back into Rebuilding. It doesn't appear to be a hardware problem as the buttons were working fine. A lost cause?
On the recovery mode screen, can you try doing a CleanUp>Reboot?

How to I unauthorize iTunes on a Mac that no longer works, it's dead.

I had a G3 that sadly, is dead and living with Jesus now. The mother board is dead on it. A Mac friend of mine was able to get all my data, including all my iTunes music and videos off the dead G3 and migrate onto a used G5 that I bought from a mutual friend of ours, so when I logged onto the G5 that I just bought, I had to authorize it for iTunes, but my problem is my old dead G3 is still authorized for iTunes, but it won't even boot up any more. It's unusable. How do I unauthorize iTunes on that old G3? I don't want of my five authorizations being wasted on a machine that doesn't even work. Any suggestions?

Click here for information, or fill out this form.
(35361)

Dead keys in keyboard no longer working

I use "us-acentos" keymap and since 2014-09-24 upgrade the dead keys are no longer working: typing apostrophe followed by "e" should print "é" but instead it just prints the apostrophe.
This under X both in bash and in a graphical editor such as leafpad, geany, netbeans. In a non-X session the dead keys do not work either, an apostrophe followed by "e" will just display a space.
Would anyone have any suggestion as to why this happened and how to correct it? Thank you.
Output of locale-ctl status:
System locale: LANG=fr_CA.UTF-8;
VC Keymap: us-acentos;
X11 Layout: n/a.
Output of pacman.log:
[2014-09-24 16:59] [PACMAN] starting full system upgrade
[2014-09-24 17:03] [PACMAN] upgraded bash (4.3.024-1 -> 4.3.024-2)
[2014-09-24 17:03] [PACMAN] installed ca-certificates-utils (20140325-2)
[2014-09-24 17:03] [PACMAN] installed ca-certificates-mozilla (3.17-3)
[2014-09-24 17:03] [PACMAN] installed ca-certificates-cacert (20140824-1)
[2014-09-24 17:03] [PACMAN] upgraded ca-certificates (20140325-1 -> 20140325-2)
[2014-09-24 17:03] [PACMAN] upgraded efivar (0.10.8.g81d0146-1 -> 0.11-1)
[2014-09-24 17:03] [PACMAN] upgraded efibootmgr (0.7.0.16.g099e110-1 -> 0.8.0-1)
[2014-09-24 17:03] [PACMAN] upgraded rtmpdump (20131205-1 -> 20140918-2)
[2014-09-24 17:03] [PACMAN] upgraded libx264 (1:142.20140826-1 -> 1:142.20140826-2)
[2014-09-24 17:03] [PACMAN] upgraded ffmpeg (1:2.3.3-2 -> 1:2.4.1-1)
[2014-09-24 17:03] [PACMAN] upgraded nspr (4.10.6-1 -> 4.10.7-1)
[2014-09-24 17:03] [PACMAN] upgraded nss (3.16.3-1 -> 3.17-3)
[2014-09-24 17:03] [PACMAN] upgraded firefox (32.0.1-1 -> 32.0.2-1)
[2014-09-24 17:03] [PACMAN] upgraded firefox-i18n-fr (32.0.1-1 -> 32.0.2-1)
[2014-09-24 17:03] [PACMAN] upgraded gegl (0.2.0-11 -> 0.2.0-12)
[2014-09-24 17:03] [PACMAN] upgraded gstreamer (1.4.1-1 -> 1.4.2-1)
[2014-09-24 17:03] [PACMAN] upgraded gst-plugins-base-libs (1.4.1-1 -> 1.4.2-1)
[2014-09-24 17:03] [PACMAN] upgraded gst-plugins-base (1.4.1-1 -> 1.4.2-1)
[2014-09-24 17:03] [PACMAN] upgraded k3b (2.0.2-9 -> 2.0.2-10)
[2014-09-24 17:03] [PACMAN] upgraded libgpg-error (1.14-1 -> 1.16-1)
[2014-09-24 17:03] [PACMAN] upgraded libtirpc (0.2.4-1 -> 0.2.5-1)
[2014-09-24 17:03] [PACMAN] upgraded xine-lib (1.2.6-1 -> 1.2.6-2)
[2014-09-24 17:03] [PACMAN] upgraded opencv (2.4.9-4 -> 2.4.9-5)
[2014-09-24 17:03] [PACMAN] upgraded openresolv (3.5.7-1 -> 3.5.7-2)
[2014-09-24 17:03] [PACMAN] upgraded openscenegraph (3.2.1-1 -> 3.2.1-2)
[2014-09-24 17:03] [PACMAN] upgraded perl (5.20.0-5 -> 5.20.1-1)
[2014-09-24 17:03] [PACMAN] upgraded python2 (2.7.8-1 -> 2.7.8-2)
[2014-09-24 17:03] [PACMAN] upgraded x264 (1:142.20140826-1 -> 1:142.20140826-2)
[2014-09-24 17:03] [PACMAN] upgraded xorg-server-common (1.16.0-6 -> 1.16.1-1)
[2014-09-24 17:03] [PACMAN] upgraded xorg-server (1.16.0-6 -> 1.16.1-1)
[2014-09-24 17:03] [PACMAN] upgraded xz (5.0.6-1 -> 5.0.7-1)

Follow-up:
1) I could restore the keyboard in X with this command:
$ localectl set-x11-keymap us pc104 alt-intl
which creates /etc/X11/xorg.conf.d/00-keyboard.conf:
Section "InputClass"
Identifier "system-keyboard"
MatchIsKeyboard "on"
Option "XkbLayout" "us"
Option "XkbModel" "pc105"
Option "XkbVariant" "intl"
Option "XkbOptions" "terminate:ctrl_alt_bksp"
EndSection
another option that worked was to rename /etc/X11/xorg.conf.d/10-evdev.conf.pacsave to /etc/X11/xorg.conf.d/10-evdev.conf, which also contained the "XkbLayout" and "XkbVariant" lines under "InputClass" (the original file had been renamed to .pacsave in February 2013). See wiki:
https://wiki.archlinux.org/index.php/Ke … on_in_Xorg
The output from localectl status now reads:
System Locale: LANG=fr_CA.UTF-8
VC Keymap: us-acentos
X11 Layout: us
X11 Model: pc105
X11 Variant: intl
X11 Options: terminate:ctrl_alt_bksp
So it seems that the result of an earlier upgrade was to "unset" the keyboard for X (compare with output from localectl status in original post). Why?
2) the keyboard in console (out of X) is still not working. If I try to set it to "us-alt-intl" in /etc/vconsole.conf, it works as "us" should (no dead keys); it I use "us-acentos" some keys do not work. locale-ctl shows that "us-acentos" does exist (but not "us-alt-intl").
Mystery.

Hi, my MacBook Air is not working anymore if it's not connected with the power cable. It's pretty new so I can't imagine that the battery is dead already. Why can't I use my MacBook Air without the power cable even though I charged it for hours?

Hi, my MacBook Air is not working anymore if it's not connected with the power cable. It's pretty new so I can't imagine that the battery is dead already. Why can't I use my MacBook Air without the power cable even though I charged it for hours?

Please take the Mac to Apple store to have it checked out.
Genius Bar reservation
http://www.apple.com/retail/geniusbar/
Best.

Recovery From A Dead Drive!

Hi.
My Pavilion dv7-6b51ea (QG732EA), Windows 7 Home Premium (64-bit), BIOS F.1C started giving me a SMART disk warning this was followed shortly after by a decrease in performance (20-30 min to boot to desktop) and this was shortly followed by a blue screen with failure notifications, in short a dead hard drive.
I took heed of the warnings and manually removed the little data I keep on the C: drive, although I didn't get as far as backing it up as the warnings suggested due to the zx spectrum like performance.
I also acquired a Intel 520 series, 480 GB SSD to replace it's Toshiba HDD with.
My conundrum now is how best to proceed with installing the SSD.
I have somewhere, in a safe place, the recovery discs created on the initial install although at the time of writing I can't remember where the safe place is!.
Option 2 I believe would be to use Intel's data migration software, providing I can get the 1TB Toshiba HDD to come back to life?.
Although would these 2 options not leave me with a OS set up for a HDD on a SSD?.
My other option I believe would be to do a "clean install" from a windows 7 SP1 ISO.
This is the option I leaning towards.
If I understand correctly from the research I was able to do prior to my HDD's demise if I take this route windows will install itself making the necessary settings for use with a SSD, although I can't see a setting in the BIOS to enable AHCI, I believe AHCI is enabled by default in an HP bios?.
Also If I understand correctly I can during the beginning of the install create a D: RECOVERY partition giving me a C: for the OS, the aforementioned D: for recovery and the System Reserved Partition as my dv7 was set up prior to this, it also had HP_TOOLs partition which would be created with the install of HP UEFI Support Environment I believe.
Would this then allow me to use HP Recovery Management as before (ie. via hotkeys etc.)?, if not I think I also have a copy of the SWSetup folder somewhere could I extract the necessary files from there?.
I would like my recovery to contain a copy of windows + updates to this date if this is possiable leaving me to install the HP components I require after, in the case of a windows failiure (I would prefer this option as after 3 years of use I still could not rid the system of some OEM components, Magic Desktop in particular, and a trial version of Norton Internet Security which recently reapeared in place of the Norton subscription after letting Intel's driver update utility update the chipset and network drivers).
Any advice is greatly apreciated.
Many thanks.
Grant.

Thanks for the swift response Huffer.
Sorry mine's delayed, I'm sharing computer time with my nephews on my sisters laptop at the moment.
Also please excuse my ignorance as I've not delt with any hardware issues for over 10 years so this has been a steep relearning curve and I'm new to SSD's and have no experiance of RAID, I think and I've done to much reading in to short a amount of time and confussed myself a bit.
Since my initial post I've cautiously coaxed my dv7 back to life and found the recovery discs although both are probably redundant now as I've also aquired a Windows 7 .iso.
I've been back in the BIOS and can not find any drive mode settings, device manager has the Intel Mobile Express Chipset SATA AHCI Controller controlling my HDD & BD ROM and Intel Rapid Storage Technology is installed although I'm unsure if either of these are an indication of whether I'm configured for AHCI or RAID?.
Is there a easy way of telling which it is? as the Intel RAID driver you directed me to says "The driver should be installed after the operating system has been installed. F6 and RAID BIOS configurations need to be performed prior to installation of this driver for proper operation".
Will windows not install basic drivers to get me up and running?
You asked "Do you have an mSSD accelerator cache drive?", I'm presuming you mean on the Toshiba drive, I can find no mention of this in the dv7 specs or on the Toshiba MK1059GSM specs.
I'm half tempted to try a "suck it and see" approach but would prefer to get things right during install if I can!.
To this end would I be better off creating a D: RECOVERY partition during Install or wiil HP software do this for me when added later, I remember reading somewhere systems can sometimes be a bit particular with regards to a recovery partition?.
Once again many thanks.
Grant.

Official PlayBook OS v2.0.1.668 Announcement and Breathing Life back into a Dead Battery

Where is it?!
Well, you can go to the software update page and discover that the only thing RIM indicates the update does is provide a security update for the Adobe Flash player,
http://ca.blackberry.com/support/tablets/playbook/software-updates.html
The details can be found here.
http://btsc.webapps.blackberry.com/btsc/viewdocument.do?externalId=KB31675&sliceId=1&cmd=displayKC&d...
That said, it would appear speculation related to wifi and browser improvements (among other things) is very subjective and likely as varied as individual user experience. Here’s a quote from a Crackberry News & Rumours Post
http://crackberry.com/whats-new-playbook-os-201668
Frankly, this sort of commentary drives me crazy. What company would make the kind of improvements identified above without documenting them for their existing and future customers, if they were real. Is it that we're all so desperate for good news from RIM that we have to make it up? If anyone can find anything official behind the article's claims, feel free to post a link in response.
A couple things do still confuse me though. Some users are claiming that the new OS v2.0.1.668 version has been pulled. My Playbook upgraded to this update without any issue on the first try. Didn't take hours and the whole process seemed quite normal. Smooth as molasses.
Didn't notice anything weird at all until last evening, a few days after the upgrade. I pulled off the charger cable and looked at the battery and it was 0%, dead as a door nail. Perhaps the magnetic head of the fast charger wasn't seated properly. I turned off the Playbook and then attached the fast charger. Left it alone and went back about an hour later and it was still at 0%! It was acting like it was still losing charge and getting weaker. This is not typically the case, so I shut down wifi, turned off backlighting, put it into airplane mode and tried again. No change when I checked back later. At some points, I couldn't even get it to boot to the main screen, just battery empty symbol, at best.
I read on this and other forums how others were having problems after teh update. Erasing their Playbook and reloading OS. I couldn't even do that, because the Playbook has to have enough power to update the software through the Desktop. While I could connect and see the device via Desktop, there wasn't enough juice to do anything at 0%. It seemed that there were folks holding the battery button for 10-20 seconds claiming that worked, but it didn't do anything for me.
To say the least, I was getting pretty ticked off after reading the forum and discovering that the battery issue I was dealing with might be related to a pulled OS upgrade that had screwed my Playbook. Proper QA and testing should preventthis sort of blunder. Even more ticked, if the update has been pulled and RIM has not made any official statement that I can find to that effect! If they have pulled it (which I still haven't been able to personally confirm), this information should be publically available and explained. The one thing they need to do is look after any loyal customers they still have left. Personally, I have loved my playbook, although RIM has definitely botched a great piece of hardware with inadequate software enhancements to the OS, that continues to this day. The fact that we still can't categorize browser favorites in folders at this point is inexcusable. Anyway, I digress.
Back to the battery. Here's what I did after about two hours of snarling and becoming increasingly frustrated with my dead playbook and not being able to find any way to breathe life back into it. I remembered what happens to my rechargeable batteries for my xbox controllers when they drain dead. They simply won't charge. They become un-rechargeable. I eventually figured out via an obscure internet posting, what no retail clerk or xbox support person seemed to know. I returned more than my share of brand new unrechargeable batteries, because they wouldn't charge when drained. This is what I discovered. You take the dead controller with battery and connect it to the charging cable. It lights red... but after 13 seconds it goes green. If you leave it connected it simply will not charge. Originally, I concluded I had a faulty battery that would not recharge. Not so. You must pull the cable off. Light goes out, connect it again. Light goes red, 13 seconds turns green. Pull the cable off. Light goes out, connect it again. Light goes red, 13 seconds turns green. Pull the cable off. Light goes out, connect it again. Light goes red, 13 seconds turns green. Pull the cable off. Repeat until you figure there is no point to this exercise, and then do it one more time. Pull the cable off. Light goes out, connect it again. Light goes red, 13 seconds later it stays red and doesn't go green, it stays red. Might be the 5th try, 20th try, 30th try, who knows, but eventually the xbox controller light will actually stay red and not switch to green and will then recharge. It's almost like each previous failed connection provides a bit more juice to the battery, until it has enough to finally be rechargeable again. Come back in a couple hours and what appeared to be an unrechargeable battery is fully charged.
So I took my Playbook, Turned it off. Connected cable. Light turned red, then turned green. Disconnected cable. Held power button to shut playbook off. Connected cable. Light turned red, then turned green. Disconnected cable. Held power button to shut playbook off. Connected cable. Light turned red, then turned green. Disconnected cable. Held power button to shut playbook off. Connected cable. Light turned red, then turned green. Disconnected cable. Held power button to shut playbook off. Not sure how many times I went through this painful exercise. Maybe 15-20. Maybe I only needed to do it 5 or 10times. Maybe I didn't need to do it at all.
Frankly, in the course of doing it, it seemed like I was almost draining the battery more. I think there was a point where it almost was dead and wouldn't even light up. That had me spooked. By pressing and holding the on button and connecting the cable, I somehow got the red light to come on, then switch to green and it began pulsating. At this point, I didn't want to push my luck. Left it alone and went to bed. Got up this morning and it was alive and 100% charged. It went into an automatic reboot. The wifi password had to be re-entered and saved in order to get connected back to the internet, but everything else seemed to be fine.
I’ve used it solid for one hour and the battery dropped to 80%. This felt like a much faster drop than in the past. It's been in standby mode for an additional two and a half hours since and it is now at 60%. I never shut my PlayBook off. I keep mine in standby all day, with the screen on lowest brightness and wifi typically on. Do I think that the latest update has had an impact on battery life? Well, my Playbook originally died and ran out of charge, when I had it attached to the fast charger! Can't explain that right now. I suppose I could have improperly connected via the magnet and this was my own user error. Could be just coincidental that this happened to me after the update and at the same time others are complaining about battery issues. Personally, it does “feel” like my Playbook is draining faster in standby mode than it has in the past. I have my eye on this and if it goes dead again, I'll repost. Obviously, my recharging "technique" worked for me, so if it helps breathe life back into your battery dead playbook, I'd be interested to know.
If RIM has actually pulled the update and not updated their own web site to reflect a battery issue and not officially disclosed a known problem to their customers it would be at best totally unprofessional and at worst inexcusable. I'm still not sure what to make of everyone's comments and issues, when RIM still lists the v2.0.1.668 update on their corporate page.
gRIMace
Solved!
Go to Solution.

RIM exec Michael Clewley confirm that 668 was pulled because it has upgrading issues with Playbook with OS 1.0.7 --- and that is the ONLY reason why it was pulled.
http://twitter.com/michaelclewley

CD/DVD Drive Dead

Hey everyone,
My CD/DVD Drive is dead. Trying to reinstall the OS 10.6.
My Drive is dead, takes the disk, makes lots of grinding, and does nothing but spit it out. May have recognized it once out of 20 times, but failed during the install.
I thought about using the Remote Install OSX like you would for a MacBook Air, but it seems that the Mini doesn't have the options for WiFi or network when booting holding option on the Mini so that seems to be out.
Anyone have any experience with this? I was thinking that I could use an External USB DVD Drive to install the OS. Does anyone know if that would work?

The drive itself seems to be dead, Doesn't read any CD / DVD's
I haven't tried using a Laser Lens cleaner, usually those are not recommended for Slot load drives, I have also not tried using Compressed Air to blow into the slot.
It would be much more useful to me to have a USB External CD/DVD drive, as I could use that with any of the computers here. I'm just wondering if anyone knows it the Mini would be able to Boot / Install from an external USB Drive.

New T530 with dead / unresponsive pixel in upper middle of screen

I have one dead or unresponsive pixel in the upper middle part of the screen. It is stuck in red color. It is very difficult to ignore this red dot and it is very annoying to use my machine with this red dot on the screen. What can I do?
I ordered my T530 on July 27th and received it on Aug 20th. I've used it for two days and used UDpixel or similar online tools in attempt to unstuck this red pixel. The pixel is still stuck in red. What can I do about this? Need help. I need to use my laptop for school.
Thanks.
Processor
Intel Core i5-3210M
Operating system
Windows 7 Home Premium 64
Operating system Language
Win7 HP64 English
Total memory
4 GB PC3-12800 DDR3 (1 DIMM)
Hard drive
320GB HDD 7200rpm
Optical device
DVD Recordable, UBE w/SWR
Battery
6cell LI Battery TWL70+
Bluetooth
NONE
WiFi wireless LAN adapters
Intel Centrino Advanced-N 6205
Wireless WAN accessories
Mobile Broadband upgradable
Warranty Type
1 Year Depot/Express Warranty
Custom images
NONE
AC Adapter and Power Cord
90W AC Adpt US (2pin)
Accessible Optimized Preload
NONE
Adobe Elements
NONE
Camera
TW530 720p HD Camera Mic
Color Sensor
TW530 No Color Sensor
Custom Image Language
NONE
Display Panel
TW530 15.6HD+ Anti-Glare, WWAN
Keyboard Language
KYB (Backlit) US English
Microsoft Office
NONE
Microsoft Windows 7 XP Mode
NONE
Pointing device
TW530 UNav w/ FPR
Protection Services
NONE
Publication Language
Pub; US English
Reserved Char 1
NONE
SIM Card for WWAN 2
NONE
Security Chip 2
Security Chip Enabled
Shipping Country
USA
Software Application
NONE
Storage Adapter
16GB Micro SSD SATA3
System Unit
T530 NVIDIA Optimus with 1GB
System expansion slots
TW530 Exp CS & 4-1 CR
Windows 7 Recovery DVD
NONE
Solved!
Go to Solution.

Hey Hiplease,
If you computer is under warranty which if your dates are this year then there is a good chance you can get it sent in for repair.
Here is a link that you could read about LCD replacement:
http://support.lenovo.com/en_US/detail.page?LegacyDocID=MIGR-69856
Here are the service number you can call:
http://support.lenovo.com/en_US/feedback/detail.page?LegacyDocID=MIGR-76613
If you have any other questions please post back and we will be more then happy to help.
Best Regards,
Hiro
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MSI K7N2 Delta-ILSR Dead? Help!

Hey all,
Well, the other day I was on my computer playing a game when my mobo fan started making an odd noise (as if switching rpm), so I took off the side of my case and took a look inside. Everything seemed to be functioning properly, then I switched my cpu fan speed via the pci slot speed control. As I switched from High-Medium-Low, I noticed that the fan actually slowed to the point where I could see the blades spinning, at least for a second or so. I found that rather odd, seeing as how I've never seen a fan (especially a cpu fan) slow to the point that I could see the blades spin. Anyway, a couple of hours later, I shut down and went to sleep.
The next day I had my comp on for about maybe 30mins to an hour or so when suddenly I heard an alarm from the computer speaker, so I was like, ":censored:?" since I had never heard it before. It was evidently the temperature warning, which I had set to 70C. So I shut down within 15 seconds and opened up the side of my case.
I noticed that the cpu fan wasn't moving at all (usually I'd open the case in time to see the spin-down). So I turned the computer back on and the fan didn't budge, so I immediately powered down, assuming that the CPU Fan had died. Later on, I hooked the fan itself up to a free power cord in my sister's computer and booted up, along with the speed controller, flipping from medium to high to low without any problems.
I then did screwed the fan back to the heatsink in my comp and booted up. I went into the bios an noticed that the rpm was 8k, which is way too high for my fan (normally 5k). So i began switching from high, medium, to low once again, then I saw that the rpm reader in the bios went to 0. So I looked back in the side of my case and saw that the cpu fan was once again dead. At this point I concluded that it was the fan and was about to order the Volcano 12.
A day later I placed the fan inside my sister's computer on a free cord, yet again, and yet again, it worked fine.
I once again put it in my computer to test and this time it worked fine, even while switching between speeds. Unfortunately, I then noticed that the mobo fan was not moving, then began to move.
Well, I'm guessing now that it's simply the motherboard that has a short, since both the motherboard fan as well as the cpu fan have randomly been dying the past few days. The motherboard fan; however, has switched rpm many times in the past from 5k to 3k.
It could also be a PSU problem, but I have Antec 400watt psu and it's been working fine for the past 2 years, so I doubt it. I've had the motherboard for a little over a year. I upgraded my cpu from 2200+ to 3000+ in July. That's also when I bought the cpu fan. The motherboard fan began fluctuating in rpm noticeably back in April or May of this year.
Yesterday, I used the computer again and had it on for about 2 hours or so and I had speedfan monitoring the temps and the rpm. The temps stayed relatively stable: 48 cpu, 44 mobo.
But alas, the RPMs were totally [blame me for the swear filter] up. At one point, both the mobo and cpu fan speeds were reading 0, even though both continued to spin within the case and the temps remained the same. Then after 30mins or so, they cpu fan began reading again at 40,000-42,000rpm, which is obviously incorrect, seeing as the fan is rated for around 5k. I got/get the same readings in the bios, both fans reading at 0rpm as they continue to physically spin.
Also, during a number of times that I've started up the comp within the past few days, the motherboard northbridge fan wasn't spinning at all and didn't begin to until a few minutes into my windows session.
Also, I took out the NB fan and noticed a slight crack in the back of it.
I was considering simply just buying the Volcano 12 and the MSI K7N2 Delta2 Platinum rather than RMAing the mobo. Then perhaps an Antec 550W psu, if necessary.
Any ideas what I should replace and in which order? And has anybody else encountered any similar problems with this mobo (at least with the mobo rpm, which has been a prob for about 6months on and off)?
I bought the mobo along with a 2200+ in July of 2003. I upgraded the ram from 256 to 512 in April 2004 (which is around the time I started hearing rpm probs with the mobo fan) and I upgraded the cpu in July of 2004
Many Thanks!
My Specs are as follows:
Windows XP Professional SP1
Antec SX1040B2 File Server Case
400watt Antec PSU
MSI K7N2 Delta-ILSR
AMD Athlon XP 3000+ (2.17GHz)
Thermaltake TR2 M2 HSF
Kingston 256MB of PC2700 DDR-333MHz RAM
Generic 256MB of PC2700 DDR-333MHz RAM
ATI All-In-Wonder 9800 Pro
Sound Blaster Audigy 2ZS Platinum
Pioneer 10x DVD Drive
Sony 8x Double Layer DVD-+RW
Western Digital 120.0GB 7200RPM HD ATA/100
Western Digital 120.0GB 7200RPM HD ATA/100
nForce Ethernet Adapter w/Cable line
Logitech MX500 Optical Mouse
Logitech Elite Keyboard
19" Envision Monitor EN985e
Logitech Z-680 5.1 Speakers

Could be a fluctuating PSU that's breaking down power to the MB. You have a whole lot of components dragging that PSU down. With what you have in your rig I would run either an Antec or Enermax 550W. Best way to be sure is to borrow a PSU or buy one from a store with a good return policy so that you can return it if indeed it turns out to be the MB. If I don't have your board here on my bench to test the only thing I can suggest to you is to swap out components unfortunately.

Z87 Mpower SP : BIOS A is dead or can be saved??

Hi guys,
I accidentally did a failed flashing and caused my board doesn't wanna boot to post but all LEDs, fans on CPU and card are working only blackscreen on monitor and there is no LED show up on Debug LED. I use MSI Z87 Mpower SP with BIOS A (damaged) and BIOS B (working normal).
I already did a recovery way that xmad have said before while I used MSI Z77A-GD80 (dual BIOS) and it was working at that time but now with Z87 Mpower SP (dual BIOS) it won't work, I use MSI HQ Forum USB flasher btw when I did failed flashing I was using M-flash after finished mainboard was turn off it self, then I did CLEAR CMOS ... after that I powered up PC and it turned out to begin flashing ME .
The process with MSI HQ Forum USB flashing Tool is normal but when it is done I do a clear-CMOS and power up PC still debug LED is not showing anything although mainboard is power up (all fans, card, LEDs are on)
So is the BIOS A dead?? Or can be saved?
Btw I use i5 4430, Gskill ARES 2x4G GBA 2133MHz CL9 1.64v, WD Black 500G SATA3, Corsair HX750 & MSI GTX780 Lightning with windows 7 x64 SP1.
Note : Now I use BIOS V1.6 on BIOS B, before this BIOS A is V1.7 and I wanna tried to downgrade BIOS to V1.5.
One last thing I did flash with 4G USB FD with FAT formatted, is it OK? Next I will try to use FAT32 on my TOSHIBA 16G USB3.0.

You needed special archives to allow fpt flashing, else forum tool won't work.
>>Use the MSI HQ Forum USB flasher<<
A.) Download the attached archive and place it on your desktop. Do not decompress.
B.) Download and install the Forum flash tool.
C.) Insert your FAT32 formatted usb stick.
D.) Make sure that all win 8 options are disabled. (Fast Boot etc) Also make sure the legacy USB is enabled.
E.) Start the forum flash tool and select option 1. Then point the tool at the compressed archive we downloaded earlier. Then to your USB Flash Drive.
F.) Boot to the USB from working bios B.
G.) Once it booted successfully switch to bios A without powering down or rebooting
H.) Now follow the directions and let the tool flash bios A with desired version

MSI KT3 Ultra ARU -- After placing XP 2600+, motherboard dead

Like the thread title says, my KT3 Ultra ARU board doesn't work anymore :( (no video signal, all D-leds red).
This is what happend, I upgraded my XP 2000+ to 2600+.
Everything worked like a charm, until I removed the 2000+ CPU and changed it with the 2600+.
No video signal and all D-Leds are red.
When I changed it back to the old situation (2000+), the motherboard did the same :(
I changed hardware, but with no results whatsoever(videocard, mem etc.), And the BIOS recovery tool is (like always) not possible, because the system doesn't respond to anything and just hangs at a black screen.
The BIOS was upgraded to v5.6 (XP 2400+/2600+ Support) before the change. The cooling sits perfectly and the core of the CPUs are good (not broken or anything).
Are these signs of a dead motherboard? ;(

Quote
Originally posted by MikNT
IUpon clearing CMOS I found that I had to leave FASTCOMMAND at Normal since now I operate at 166 and it seems 166 and FAST or ULTRA do not go hand in hand. I have no idea why.
Hi! I got the same problem. With BIOS version 5.4 and 5.5 I could choose between normal, fast and ultra. Now with 5.6 it doesn't work at all (also tried with modified bios to have full raid functionality). So if you're running both FSB and memory @166mhz, you can't boot with ultra or fast (I haven't tried ultra, since fast always gives me the best perfomance).
Ah! And I can choose ultra or fast with FSB @ 133 and Mem @ 166.

Is my MacBook battery dead or is there something else going on?

Hi
My macbook has an "x" on the battery symbol and says "no battery available" on it. I have tried all suggestions I have found, like, replace battery, reset power management, reset PRAM and still have the "x". It wont even turn on now with the battery inserted and at teh moment I can only use it when battery is taken out and Im plugged into power using Magsafe adaptor. Laptop is about 2.5 years old. I did only notice this hapening after I installed SL but I dont know if that has anything to do with it. Is my battery dead and if so if I buy new battery will that fix it or could it be soimething else. I did check battery cycle count a few days ago and all was grand but I cant check it now as when I insert battery laptop turns off!
Any help is greatly appreciated. THanks
Message was edited by: tracyaryan

Do a reset of the SMC:
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3964
Try carefully cleaning the contact points on both the battery and the MacBook with a little bit of rubbing alcohol.
If neither of those do the trick, your battery is likely toast. If you are under the 3-year AppleCare, you can try calling and they may offer you a free replacement. If you get a replacement and the same thing happens--your MacBook shuts down with the battery in it or can't see a battery--then you have a much more serious hardware problem.

Dead G4

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