Dead Hard Drive on Black MacBook

Can any one give any pointers as to how to replace a dead hard drive in a (approximately) two year old Black MacBook? Service guy trying to charge me £250+ to do it.
Any help would be most appreciated.

It's super easy.
Go here and buy this HHD (I have bought 3 of them for my Mac laptops)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136314
Go here for simple instruction on installing it.
http://eshop.macsales.com/installvideos/macbook13_memhd/
One thing to remember is to re-format the HHD once installed using your install Disk #1. Reformat using GUID. Very simple to do. Can be installed in less than 10 minutes with the right tools (highly recommend buying the from OWC), and another few hours to reinstall everything.
Right tools from here.
http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Newer%20Technology/TOOLKIT11/
Message was edited by: D/FW

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MacBook Pro with 'dead' hard drive

Hi,
I have here a MacBook Pro, I believe it's 2009, the unibody model with the pop-out battery and HD door. Belongs to my boss.
This morning, on the day when he has some vital legal matters occurring, it refused to boot
He has the drive split with boot camp. It grey screens with the GSoD standard on boot, on option-boot from windows side (after prompting for normal/safe mode, it GSoDs), and on boot from install cd. It fails to do mount anything in Target disk mode.
The drive cannot be verified, repaired, etc via disk utility when I got it to boot there after waiting forever.
I removed the hard drive, put in an enclosure, and connected it to our Mini Server, which informed me that the drive could not be repaired and that I should back up its data ASAP. Which I am doing right now - it all seems to be accessible, but the drive claims to not be writable.
So my question is: is it a safe presumption that the only problem with this machine is the faulty HD? I've just never heard of a hard drive failure in which the data was still readily accessible.
Please advise! It's copying now to disk image, and I may make a second bootable copy to an external HDD in a moment if I can find one.

Upon completion of both copies of the contents, I delved in. Most files seem intact. Having copies, I asked disk utility to format the drive. It did so and reported success. I have now reinstalled the hard drive in the macbook, out of curiosity if nothing else, and have used disk utility to initiate a restore of the bootable copy to the formatted, empty original faulty drive. It appears to be working, albeit an eta of 3 hours or so.
Thus, to clarify, the original drive is now empty, reporting healthy, and being restored.
On the flip side, maybe a restoration of cloned data, if there was NOT a physical drive problem, is a bad idea... this is all getting confusing.
Could his boot camp setup or something have caused... I don't know... a partitioning error? Something that made the hard drive seem to fail when in actuality is was only a logic problem of some kind?
Just curious... I'm going to let this pan out and see what happens. Let me know if anyone has any feedback.

Is it possible to change the hard drive in a macbook pro, if so where from? and how?

is it possible to change the hard drive in a macbook pro, if so where from? and how?

secondrow wrote:
whats a green drive? thnks
Green is a marketing term for a drive designed for lower power use, lower noise, and lower heat. The side effect is that it's not as fast. Black drives are designed for highest performance, so they might use more power and run hotter and noisier. I upgraded my Apple Time Capsule with a green drive, but I put a black drive in my Mac Pro.
Kappy wrote:
7200 RPM drives are faster than 5400 RPM drives.
As in cars, RPM is not the sole determinant of performance. In some cases, a newer drive at a lower RPM is faster than an older drive at a higher RPM, when the newer drive uses better technology. I have heard that some of today's high-capacity 5400RPM drives are faster than 7200RPM drives of lower capacity simply because the very high density of a 1TB drive means more data passes under the head even at a lower RPM. Certainly there have been times in Apple's past when new lower RPM drives were faster than higher RPM drives of the previous generation, a notable example being when 4200RPM perpendicular recording drives were introduced and beat 5400RPM drives.
Yes, generally RPM can be used to compare, but it is important to realize it isn't always true.

Purchasing A New Hard Drive For Old Macbook

Hey everyone!
I'm new here. I found an old Macbook of mine—a black Macbook about 12 3/4" across. I got it a while ago, and the hard drive stopped working so I just bought a new computer. But now I would like to have two computers, and I would like to use this old Macbook again. I realize that this old Macbook still works; it just needs a new hard drive. So I was wondering if someone could point me in the right direction of a nice hard drive that I can slide into this black Macbook of mine. I looked online, and I'm afraid to purchase one without the help of someone; I don't know if the size of the drive will fit into this old Macbook or what. So if anyone can help me out, that would be so great! Thanks guys!

Here are step by step instructions with pictures on replacing the hard drive in a MacBook with a removable battery. http://creativemac.digitalmedianet.com/articles/viewarticle.jsp?id=45088

I formatted my ext hard drive and changed it to mac os x extended(journaled). then i put in all my data back. after a while, i insert the hard drive but my macbook cannot read it. plz help

i formatted my ext hard drive and changed it to mac os x extended(journaled). then i put in all my data back. after a while, i insert the hard drive but my macbook cannot read it. plz help

SanandaDutta
tried on a different mac. The same problem exists.
If that is the case, its extremely unlikely you have a bad USB cable on the seagate, rather as I mentioned earlier a bad SATA bridge card.
If the Seagate 1TB USB external wont open on either Mac and youve verified same (try a diff. USB cable if you have one however this is nearly never the case),....then to get the data off that HD (unless it is dead which is also extremely unlikely),......then you would need to extract the HD from its case and insert same into either a HD dock or USB HD enclosure.
8 out of 10 seemingly dead inopperable 1-3+ year old external HD are perfectly fine, rather the cheap 50 cent SATA bridge card fries and dies (alas)
reply back if you need help in extracting same.

Can't install OS X after replacing dead hard drive

Hello-
Today I replaced the dead hard drive (Genius bar-confirmed) on my MacBook.
The replacement itself was uneventful.
When I tried to load OS X, I reached the page that asks me which language I want, but that was as far as I could go. I received a warning: "ALERT--this software can't be installed on this computer". I backed out and went into Disk Utility, and YES--it recognized the new hard drive (although there was a line somewhere about "unformatted"). The new drive is a SATA 2.5" Fujitsu 7200 rpm drive. The Genius Bar guy said to definitely get a SATA 2.5".
Any suggestions, please?
Much appreciated.
THANK YOU.

Well. I've checked out all the Fujitsu drive reports here and see no problems...
http://forums.xlr8yourmac.com/drivedb/action.lasso?-search
On the off chance, have you tried a PRAM Reset or whatever passes for a PMU Reset these days?

Can I use my 160gb iPod classic as an external hard drive for my MacBook?

Can I use my 160gb iPod classic as an external hard drive for my MacBook?

That link seems to be broken. It does normally lead to a solution. For the time being go to
http://www.google.com/search?q=ipod+classic+disk+mode
Let your mouse hover over the link until you see the option appear on the right to view the cached version Google contains:
Putting iPod devices with a Click Wheel into Disk Mode
If necessary, verify that your iPod has a Click Wheel.
Before placing the iPod into Disk Mode, verify that it is charged.
Toggle the Hold switch on and off (set it to Hold, then turn it off again.)
Press and hold the Menu and Select buttons for at least six seconds, until the Apple logo appears.
When the Apple logo appears, release the Menu and Select buttons and immediately press and hold the Select and the Play/Pause buttons until the Disk Mode screen appears.
Connect the iPod to your computer; the screen on the iPod will should say "Do not disconnect".
If you are having difficulty putting your iPod into Disk Mode, set it on a flat surface. Make sure that the finger pressing the Select button is not touching the Click Wheel. Also make sure that you are pressing the Play/Pause button toward the outside of the Click Wheel and not near the center. If you are still unable to put your iPod into Disk Mode, use one finger from one hand to press the Select button, and one finger from the other hand to press the Play/Pause button.
If you have an older iPod model, without a Click Wheel
Before placing the iPod into Disk Mode, verify that it has a charge.
Toggle the Hold switch on and off (set it to Hold, then turn it off again.)
Press and hold the Play/Pause and Menu buttons until the Apple/iPod logo appears, then release them. This resets iPod. When you reset iPod, all your music and data files are saved, but some customized settings may be lost.
When the Apple logo appears, immediately press and hold the Previous and Next buttons until the Disk Mode screen appears.
Connect the iPod to your computer; the screen on the iPod should say "Do not disconnect".
If you have an iPod nano (6th generation)
Before placing the iPod into Disk Mode, verify that it has a charge.
Reset the device by pressing the Sleep and Volume Down buttons simultaneously until the display turns black. This should take about eight seconds.
When the display turns black, hold down the Volume Down and Volume Up buttons simultaneously until the device enters Disk mode.

Extended Hardware Test - can this miss a dead hard drive?

Hello,
I am having all kinds of problems with my computer since installing a recommended update last week. I cannot fully restart it, cannot make repairs with disk utility, and cannot reinstall OS X to the harddrive volume because it doesn't list any available volumes. My hardware profile, as listed in the Hardware Test utitily, is as follows:
Product: MacBook
Mac Model: MacBook 2, 1
CPU type: Intel Core 2 Duo
Number of cores: 2
CPU Speed: 2 GHz
L2 CPU Cache (shared): 4mb
Boot Rom version: MB21.882.00A5.B07.0706270922
System Serial #: xxxxxxxxxxx
SMC version: 1.1780
Memory:
Overview: 1024 MB
(details about RAM)
I ran the hardware test, choosing to perform extended testing (took ~40 minutes), and the result was "No trouble found." I noticed there is no mention of hard drive space - should there be? This information doesn't show up anywhere in the disc utility diagnostics/profile - leading me to the thing the harddrive is busted - but the hardware test found no problems. Is it possible for the hard drive to be busted but the hardware test to not recognize this? Any suggestions? [I posted a more detailed, general inquiry over here: http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=7873412&tstart=0 without much luck.]
Thank you!

Ok so I haven't received any helpful information on the question of whether or not Apple Hardware Test can fail to recognize a dead hard drive... can anyone recommend a replacement hard drive? I believe I need a 2.5" internal SATA, can anyone confirm this for me? Thank you!!!

I got new hard driver for my MacBook I don't have the cd but I do have flash drive that has the software I need help because when I turn on my laptop it shows me a file with question mark how can I install the software from the flash driver?

I got new hard driver for my MacBook I don't have the cd but I do have flash drive that has the software I need help because when I turn on my laptop it shows me a file with question mark how can I install the software from the flash driver?

Hold down the Option key while you boot your Mac. Then, it should show you a selection of devices. Click your flash drive and it will boot from that.

What is the exact name of the cable I need to connect my old hard drive from my macbook pro (it has been taken out of the computer) to my new macbook pro? I need to transfer files from the old hard drive to the new computer.

What is the exact name of the cable I need to connect my old hard drive from my macbook pro, which has been removed from the computer, to my new macbook pro? I need to transfere files from the old hard drive to the new computer.

No eSATA to USB. Just a SATA/IDE to USB adapter. Google SATA/IDE to USB adapter and you will get tons of links to buy them. Most likely your local computer electronics store has them, although they might be more expensive buying locally than online.
I have several. You can get either USB 2, which what I recommend, or USB 3. USB is backward compatible so a USB 3 adapter will work on a USB 2 port and a USB 2 adapter will work on a USB 3 port. Backward compatible in both directions.
I suggest a USB 2 type because there have been some problems with certain USB 3 devices, the USB 3 interface used isn't all that good in those certain devices. USB 3 is still fairly new where as USB 2 has been around for over 10 years.
synghem wrote:
Thank you LowLuster,
At the apple store they said I needed an esata to usb wire. But looking at wires on line has been confusing. Is sata the same as esata? How do I know if I need a usb 3 or usb 2?

I need to buy an external hard drive for my MacBook Air as it is almost full. Which one should I buy?

Do I need to buy an Apple external Hard Drive for my MacBook Air?

There is no such thing as an Apple hard drive, ...Apples doesnt make same.
avoid western digital if possible.
Yes, having an external HD is necessary for data backups and keeping large media files for packing around etc.
you need data redundancy.
best options for the price, and high quality HD:
Quality 1TB drives are $50 per TB on 3.5" or $65 per TB on 2.5"
Perfect 1TB for $68
http://www.amazon.com/Toshiba-Canvio-Portable-Hard-Drive/dp/B005J7YA3W/ref=sr_1_ 1?ie=UTF8&qid=1379452568&sr=8-1&keywords=1tb+toshiba
Nice 500gig for $50. ultraslim perfect for use with a notebook
http://www.amazon.com/Toshiba-Canvio-Portable-External-Drive/dp/B009F1CXI2/ref=s r_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1377642728&sr=1-1&keywords=toshiba+slim+500gb
Best small HD for the money:
2.5" USB portable High quality BEST FOR THE COST, Toshiba "tiny giant" 2TB drive (have several of them, LOT of storage in a SMALL package) $117
http://www.amazon.com/Toshiba-Canvio-Connect-Portable-HDTC720XK3C1/dp/B00CGUMS48 /ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1379182740&sr=1-4&keywords=2tb+toshiba
*This one is the BEST portable external HD available that money can buy:
HGST Touro Mobile 1TB USB 3.0 External Hard Drive $88
http://www.amazon.com/HGST-Mobile-Portable-External-0S03559/dp/B009GE6JI8/ref=sr _1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1383238934&sr=8-1&keywords=HGST+Touro+Mobile+Pro+1TB+USB+3.0+7 2 00+RPM
Most storage experts agree on the Hitachi 2.5"
Hitachi is the winner in hard drive reliability survey:
Hitachi manufacturers the safest and most reliable hard drives, according to the Storelab study. Of the hundreds of Hitachi hard drives received, not a single one had failed due to manufacturing or design errors. Adding the highest average lifespans and the best relationship between failures and market share, Hitachi can be regarded as the winner.

Can i add a second hard drive to my macbook pro

can i add a second hard drive to my macbook pro

stevefromapo wrote:
I purchased a OWC DataDoubler kit with a 750GB hd and it works fine. I just need to get a USB CD Drive for mac so if i need to reinstall my OS I can do it.
You could put your install disc on a USB Flash drive with Disk Utility. Also, here is the USB optical drive enclosure I bought. He raised the price a few bucks. Mine ran $10.00 with the shipping.
17" 2.2GHz i7 Quad-Core MacBook Pro  8G RAM  750G HD + OCZ Vertex 3 SSD Boot HD 

Hi. I've changed my hard drive on my macbook pro and wanted to reinstall logic pro but although I took the serial number from the "about" box it rejects it when I try to reinstall. It was an upgrade to Logic 8 originally. What can I do? Urgent!

Hello. I have installed a new hard drive on my Macbook Pro with OSX Tiger. I tried to reinstall Logic 8 Pro but it refuses the serial number when I try to install it. I took the serial number from the "About" box when Logic was still installed but no good. The software was originally an upgrade, and I don't think I have the disks for the previous version. What do I do? This is important because I only use the computer for music. Thank you.

There's actually an even simpler solution that doesn't include buying a new version of Logic. He can use his original version easily. Of course, that depends if the OP knows how to effectively use his computer though...

Is there an issue with the hitachi hard drives in the MacBook Pro's ? Got a 15 inch and a 13 inch at the same time and both drives have failed in under two years. I have heard from a few other people with same issue.

Is there an issue with the hitachi hard drives in the MacBook Pro's ? Got a 15 inch and a 13 inch at the same time and both drives have failed in under two years. I have heard from a few other people with same issue. Other drive I have had have lasted at least 5 or more years.

there is a dylib you can put in the springboard if jailbroken but if not you have to find an apple store

I've lost the use of Appleworks in 10.9.2. Is it possible to partition the internal hard drive of my MacBook Pro and install an older Mac OS (10.6.8) on the second partition with OS 10.9.2 on the other?

I've lost the use of Appleworks by upgrading to 10.9.2.
Is it possible to partition the internal hard drive of my MacBook Pro and install an older Mac OS (10.6.8) on the second partition with OS 10.9.2 on the other? I'd like to be able to boot to the older OS when I need Appleworks and few other applications that aren't available on OS 10.9.2.
Any suggestions?
Thank you for your help.

Hello again, WZZZ,
Here's an update. I was successful in creating two partitions on my internal drive, and in installing OS 10.6.6 on the second partition, as per your guidence. I now have it up to 10.6.8 with all the security updates and AppleWorks. A great thing.
Some thoughts:
• The partitioning had one hitch; it failed at first. But once I "repaired" the disc with Disc Utility the partitioning went thru.
• The partitioning took a long time in 'resizing the partition.' A few hours I think it was. Lots of progress bar watching.
• If I had it to do again, I'd size the two partitions differently. My original data was occupying about 230 Gb of the 320 Gb disc. I made the new partitions share the space, about 230 and 75Gb. That left very little available space for the main disc. I ought to have put some breathing room in there. As it is, it's an incentive to clean up all those files, especially all those iTunes files. I now have about 10% of available space there and mean to continue deleting.
So, all in all a good project that got me where I wanted to go. Thank you for your help.
Appreciatively,
wallah

Dead Hard Drive on Black MacBook

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