Depth of field displayed in inches or centimeters

I wish the depth of field would be displayed in inches or centimeters (for those using the metric system) instead of f1.2, f2.8, etc. I wish it would show it like this: f1.2 (2 inches) or something along these lines.
I understand depth of field is not a fixed value. The depth of field changes based on the distance to the subject, aperture and focal length. I'd like to see the camera body doing these calculations in real time and displaying them somewhere in the viewfinder. I'd assume you could toggle it on or off in the menu for those who don't need this.
Solved!
Go to Solution.

If you install Magic Lantern on your camera, it has all the depth of field information available for display on the rear LCD so it is possible.
Here is a video I made that shows how the values change as you change focus distance or focal length.
Mike Sowsun
S110, SL1, 5D Mk III

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Depth of field info in view finder?

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I use a Bosch Laser Meter for 3D Projekts and I can ensure You that this thing is very expensive ( ca 1000$ US or 700€ )
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You can decrease the visible length of the field but you can not increase more than database field length. check SAP help on this :
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Effect
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Solved!
Go to Solution.

It'd really help to see an example, it's hard to guess without seeing it.
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I created the custom infotype 9008 using t-code PM01, created conversion class ZCL_HRPA_UI_CONVERT_9008_XX and assigned it to screen structure ZHCMT_BSP_PA_XX_R9008 in the view V_T588UICONVCLAS. Coded the methods IF_HRPA_UI_CONVERT_STANDARDOUTPUT_CONVERSION and IF_HRPA_UI_CONVERT_STANDARDINPUT_CONVERSION. I'm trying to make some fields display only within the method OUTPUT_CONVERSION dynamically. Coded the check class ZCL_HRPA_INFOTYPE_9008 with business logic.
Everything seems to be working fine when I test using the test tool through t-code PUIT_UI.
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What's the best ND filter to buy to get the most shallow depth of field while taking pictures?

I have a Rebel SL1 by the way.

This depends on if you're trying to use flash at the same time.
Outdoors in full mid-day sun, the exposure based on a "Sunny 16" rule is f/16 and the shutter speed set to the inverse of the ISO speed. At ISO 100 you'd use 1/100th. But if you dial the aperture open 5 stops to f/2.8 then you can dial the shutter faster by 5 stops to 1/3200 and have an equivalent exposure.
f/2.8 is fairly shallow, but it is not the shallowest... f/2 and f/1.4 are even more shallow. Canon makes 50mm and 85mm f/1.2L (L series lenses) which can create especially shallow depth of field (particularly the 85mm). Canon used to have a 50mm f/1.0 lens but they have not made that in years.
Depending on your subject... there's a point where the depth of field is so shallow that it's not possible to to get your entire subject into acceptable focus. At f/1.4 and f/1.2 the depth of field can get REALLY thin (especially at close focusing distances.)
While most of my lenses can handle f/2.8 or better, I often find I prefer f/4 unless I can control subject placement well enough that f/2.8 (or lower) can still work.
Your SL1 caps out at 1/4000th sec shutter speed. So if you were to shoot in full mid-day sun (a bit of an extreme example) and you wanted to use, say, an f/2 aperture, you could not halve the shutter speed to 1/6400th because your shutter doesn't offer that setting. But you COULD do that with just a single stop ND filter (ND 0.3 -- when represented this way each "0.1" worth of density is equal to 1/3rd of a stop of light. So 0.3 is 3/3rds or 1 full stop.).
I have a 2 stop (ND 0.6), 3 stop (ND 0.9) and 10 stop (ND 3.0) filters in my bag.
If you use flash, this changes things... with flash (which I usually use during the day to fill the deep shadows and soften the light) you are capped at the flash sync speed. For your SL1 that's 1/200th sec (or slower) unless you have a speedlite that supports "high speed sync" mode.
In this situation, you might actually want 4 or 5 stops worth of ND if you are shooting in mid-day sun using fill-flash that doesn't support high-speed sync. You can change the shutter from 1/100th to 1/200th (1 stop) but you'd still have 4 more stops to make up to get from f/16 down to f/2.8... one more stop to get to f/2.
You can "stack" filters, but stacking increases the odds of artifacts from reflections... use high quality anti-reflective coated filters (this is a situation where it doesn't pay to buy budget filters.)
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Depth of field displayed in inches or centimeters

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