Depth of Field tool in Elements 11

I have a problem with the depth os field tool in Elements 11. When I add focus, the focus area becomes a black smudge, is there a fault? Your help is appreciated.

Hi,
OK, in case it makes any difference, what operating system are you using?
To me, it looks as though you are trying the simple method.
Are you clicking on the Add Blur button first? - Does the image go out of focus after you click on the button?
After that, then you select the area to be in focus as mentioned above.
It is important to do things in the order top to bottom.
The guided mode really uses layers, one of which is the black mask you are seeing. For interest sake, if you manage to get it to work properly, if you switch to Expert mode, you will see the layers it has created.
Good luck
Brian

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Photoshop elements 13 depth of field guided effect

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Please note that the Depth of Field guided edit works only when done in the sequence as mentioned in the panel.
For example, if you use the focus tool *after* using the blur slider, it would result in darkening of the image and the black blobs. In such a case:
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Elements 11 Depth of Field in Guided Mode

I get black blobs whenever I drag my cursor to mark the area specified to be in focus. Am I missing a setting to make that blackened area invisible? When I click "done" the part of the photograph to be in focus is still covered with black.

Please note that the Depth of Field guided edit works only when done in the sequence as mentioned in the panel.
For example, if you use the focus tool *after* using the blur slider, it would result in darkening of the image and the black blobs. In such a case:
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Does cinema 4d (cineware after effect) standard render no has depth of field and physical render have depth of field?

Dear sir
Why cineware have only one standard render engine ? why do no have more render engine?
as i saw in tutorial long course in internet for cinema 4d build in standard render is no has depth of field (f stop) but for physical render has depth of field.
so the problem with using cineware in after effect provide us only standard render engine. how can we composite with shallow depth of field video footage in After Effect if standard render no depth of field to Modeling or character that we composite with?

Now i can find solution on this depth of field cineware. I will try it
later. But now i have one more problem about render engine tool there are 4
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Depth of field - is there a way to blur outward from central point?

I can do an easy depth of field by Gaussian blurring a layer copy, then erasing that layer's areas where I want the main object to be in focus.
I can do a progressive depth of field by incorporating the gradient tool into the blur, drawing a straight line from foreground to background (then the foreground is in focus while the rest of the photo goes out of focus gradually toward the background).
What I would like to do amounts to, in a way, a combination of the two - a progressive blur from the center of the picture out to the edges.
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My approach to doing this is to make a copy of the image layer and blur it appropriately. Then add a layer mask to this blurred layer. Lastly draw a radial gradient on the mask so that the in-focus part in the middle shows through and drops off towards the edges.
The only problem is that PSE doesn't support layer masks out of the box and you need to find an add on, but they tend to be free. Like these: http://www.cavesofice.org/~grant/Challenge/Tools/index.html

How do you stop the camera depth of field affecting one text layer?

Just as the heading says it really
, i'm doing a fly through sort of thing and as the camera slows down to give the viewer time to read some text the depth of field of focus runs out and the text begfins to get a little blurry, is there a way to stop the text from being affected by camera DOF? Do i have to make the text a non-3D layer?
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Hi, Thanks for your response,
I could adjust the focal length on the camera to match the text but that then makes some other elements in my project change their focus, or 'blurryness'. I was just hopeing to keep the camera as it was and just make the text layer be not affected by the camera's focal length. Turn off DOP for the text type of thing. Is there such a setting? Thank you so much for your time
paul

Releation between fields and data element

Dear Abapers,
What is the relation between the fields and data element, while cretion of fields system will ask the data element, can we have one data element to more than one fields. Can you plese explain me.
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Hi,
data elements are structures defined in SAP Dictionary.
Fields you meen in a table? or in programs? in both places you create in reference to SAP Dictionary.
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Depth of field glitch

Hi,
I'm having some trouble with the depth of field in a scene that i'm animating. When the depth of field is turned on, a weird pixelated grainy bar appears across my image. It is definitely the DOF that is causing this as it disappears when turned off. The weird bar also seems to move about, get thicker and thinner in relation to the DOF settings. Is this a problem that anyone has come across before?
I've tried completely rebuilding the project from scratch and it's still there and it's also happening on two different machines now which is very strange.
Any thoughts would be much appreciated.
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Hi Rick,
I've set up another simple project and all it has in it is one 3D layer, which is a map, and the camera. Hopefully you can see from the image attached that there is a weird patch on the image. This is there no matter what part of the map I try and focus on. It sometimes moves or changes shape but it never goes away. There are no effects or anything, just the map and the camera. The map itself is High resolution but I've tried using a much lower res image and the same thing happens.
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Depth of field with iPhone 4 camera

Hi,
Anyone having any luck getting a shallow depth of field with the iPhone 4 camera?
In Apple's ads they show a demo shifting the focus from the background to the foreground and the background softens nicely.
The system is working meaning I can choose different things to focus on and the blue square moves and the exposure changes.
Just wondering if it is possible to create a more dramatic soft background effect. Thanks.

Yes I have noticed that seems to work. It's pretty good for q phone camera. I took sme shots at a concert last night and they came out quite well.
Thanks.

16-35 L USM lens and struggling with sharp focus and depth of field.

I just purchased the 16-35 L lens after reading all the reviews. I was previoulsy using the 24-70mm and was happy with the results. I am new to the Canon Mark 5D III and the new wide angle lens. I took pictures yesterday for over two hours and came back with no sharp images and no depth of field even when shooting at F/22. I zoomed in or moved close to my subjects expecting the images to be tack sharp but I am extremely disappointed. Not ONE of my pictures were tack sharp. What am I doing wrong? Are there correct settings for close-ups, landscapes and portraits with this lens? At F/22 I shoot 1/3 of the way into the picture expecting that everything in front and behind will be sharp. Not so. I am very frustrated as a newcomer to this camera. Please advise or guide me to a great source to learn.
thank you
Solved!
Go to Solution.

It'd really help to see an example, it's hard to guess without seeing it.
You shouldn't have to stop down to f/22 to get a large DoF at 16mm. In fact, part of what you might be seeing is softness from diffraction at that aperture. Try f/8, the DoF is actually quite wide at that aperture.
What shutter speeds are you at? Yes, you can get away with much slower speeds with UWA, but it can still soften images.
Lastly, I've never been able to get results out of an UWA like I can with longer lenses or a prime. I can get good results, and they clean up quite nicely in post, but viewing untouched photos at 100% it's never sharp like a good prime, or even a good tele really. So I don't know what you're expecting out of it. It usually doesn't matter since UWA are used for larger subject matter than the other lenses... but that has been my experience.

What's the best ND filter to buy to get the most shallow depth of field while taking pictures?

I have a Rebel SL1 by the way.

This depends on if you're trying to use flash at the same time.
Outdoors in full mid-day sun, the exposure based on a "Sunny 16" rule is f/16 and the shutter speed set to the inverse of the ISO speed. At ISO 100 you'd use 1/100th. But if you dial the aperture open 5 stops to f/2.8 then you can dial the shutter faster by 5 stops to 1/3200 and have an equivalent exposure.
f/2.8 is fairly shallow, but it is not the shallowest... f/2 and f/1.4 are even more shallow. Canon makes 50mm and 85mm f/1.2L (L series lenses) which can create especially shallow depth of field (particularly the 85mm). Canon used to have a 50mm f/1.0 lens but they have not made that in years.
Depending on your subject... there's a point where the depth of field is so shallow that it's not possible to to get your entire subject into acceptable focus. At f/1.4 and f/1.2 the depth of field can get REALLY thin (especially at close focusing distances.)
While most of my lenses can handle f/2.8 or better, I often find I prefer f/4 unless I can control subject placement well enough that f/2.8 (or lower) can still work.
Your SL1 caps out at 1/4000th sec shutter speed. So if you were to shoot in full mid-day sun (a bit of an extreme example) and you wanted to use, say, an f/2 aperture, you could not halve the shutter speed to 1/6400th because your shutter doesn't offer that setting. But you COULD do that with just a single stop ND filter (ND 0.3 -- when represented this way each "0.1" worth of density is equal to 1/3rd of a stop of light. So 0.3 is 3/3rds or 1 full stop.).
I have a 2 stop (ND 0.6), 3 stop (ND 0.9) and 10 stop (ND 3.0) filters in my bag.
If you use flash, this changes things... with flash (which I usually use during the day to fill the deep shadows and soften the light) you are capped at the flash sync speed. For your SL1 that's 1/200th sec (or slower) unless you have a speedlite that supports "high speed sync" mode.
In this situation, you might actually want 4 or 5 stops worth of ND if you are shooting in mid-day sun using fill-flash that doesn't support high-speed sync. You can change the shutter from 1/100th to 1/200th (1 stop) but you'd still have 4 more stops to make up to get from f/16 down to f/2.8... one more stop to get to f/2.
You can "stack" filters, but stacking increases the odds of artifacts from reflections... use high quality anti-reflective coated filters (this is a situation where it doesn't pay to buy budget filters.)
The major caution is that there is a point where the shallow depth of field is "too shallow" for the subject.
Tim Campbell
5D II, 5D III, 60Da

Hey Guys, just got FCP 7 upgrade, need help with Depth in Field.

I just got the upgrade and really want to know how to use Depth in Field on video. Could anyone explain or direct me to a video tutorial. Because i bought a whole course from rippletraining.com and it doesn't show how to do this with video. Any suggestions ?

and it doesn't show how to do this with video.< </div>
Welcome to the family.
You can only use DOF with stacked 3D layers in Motion.
Be sure to try the manuals. Just open the Help system and type in your words.
bogiesan

Text tool in elements 10 has taken to locking up computer

Any attempt to use text tool in elements 10 has taken to locking up computer. I do not want to pay for an upgrade until I know that one of two things will happen: 1) the upgrade will fix this situation, OR 2) there is a way to repair the problem so that the upgrade will install properly

Select the T tool and try a reset - see image below:

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