Deskjet 1512 prints colors/images too dark

Colors come out excessively dark, worthless for printing in color.

Hi OlenR,
Welcome to the HP Forums!
I understand that your color printing is coming out excessively dark with your HP Deskjet 1512, and I am happy to help you with this print quality issue!
I would recommend to try the following guides:
Printer Does Not Print Black Ink or Color Ink, or Prints Blank Pages.
Fixing Ink Streaks, Faded Prints, and Other Common Print Quality Problems.
I believe these guides will work, and please let me know if you have any further issues!
RnRMusicMan
I work on behalf of HP
Please click “Accept as Solution ” if you feel my post solved your issue, it will help others find the solution.
Click the “Kudos Thumbs Up" to say “Thanks” for helping!

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Color management help needed for adobe CS5 and Epson printer 1400-Prints coming out too dark with re

Color management help needed for adobe CS5 and Epson printer 1400-Prints coming out too dark with reddish cast and loss of detail
System: Windows 7
Adobe CS5
Printer: Epson Stylus Photo 1400
Paper: Inkjet matte presentation paper with slight luster
Installed latest patch for Adobe CS5
Epson driver up to date
After reading solutions online and trying them for my settings for 2 days I am still unable to print what I am seeing on my screen in Adobe CS5. I calibrated my monitor, but am not sure once calibration is saved if I somehow use this setting in Photoshop’s color management.
The files I am printing are photographs of dogs with lots of detail I digitally painted with my Wacom tablet in Photoshop CS5 and then printed with Epson Stylus 1400 on inkjet paper 20lb with slight luster.
My Printed images lose a lot of the detail & come out way to dark with a reddish cast and loss of detail when I used these settings in the printing window:
Color Handling: Photoshop manages color, Color management -ICM, OFF no color adjustment.
When I change to these settings in printer window: Color Handling: Printer manages color. Color management- Color Controls, 1.8 Gamma and choose Epson Standard it prints lighter, but with reddish cast and very little detail and this is the best setting I have used so far.
Based on what I have read on line, I think the issue is mainly to do with what controls are set in the Photoshop Color Settings window and the Epson Printer preferences. I have screen images attached of these windows and would appreciate knowing what you recommend I enter for each choice.
Also I am confused as to what ICM color management system to use with this printer and CS5:
What is the best ICM to use with PS CS5 & the Epson 1400 printer? Should I use the same ICM for both?
Do I embed the ICM I choose into the new files I create?
Do I view all files in the CS5 workspace in this default ICM?
Do I set my monitor setting to the same ICM?
If new file opens in CS5 workspace and it has a different embedded profile than my workspace, do I convert it?
Do I set my printer, Monitor and PS CS5 color settings to the same ICM?
Is using the same ICM for all devices what is called a consistent workflow?
I appreciate any and all advice that can be sent my way on this complicated issue. Thank you in advance for your time and kind help.

It may be possible to figure out by watching a Dr.Brown video on the subject of color printing. Adobe tv
I hope this may help...............

Printing from photoshop, colors seem too dark

We are printing photos and/or scans of my wife's paintings as well as some of her photography. Using a canon ip4820 and a Red river satin paper (or canvas paper) and the corresponding recommendation from Red river including their icc profile for the specific paper. While the color profile helped slightly, we still cna't seem to get true reproduction. I realize monitor calibration and other things will effect the way we see the photo, but we've viewed the photos on various screens and on the canon t2i lcd screen as well as comparing to the original painting and the prints always look too dark and in some cases the yellows come out too orange. This is all with new canon ink and a new printer. We always have to brighten the images but not being photoshop pros we are not sure if that is the correct thing to do or if there is some other correction or maybe its just that the ip4820 isn't cable of reproduction to that level.
Are there some settings we are missing?
thanks for any ideas.

3 suggestions:
Be sure that you have the latest drivers for your printer
Have the printer manage colors, not Elements. Certainly not both!
Reduce the brightness settings on your monitor, esp. while enhancing with PSE

Images too dark on external display

Hello,
I use Lightroom on my (Lenovo) notebook. Because of the small screen size, I tried using it with an external (Samsung) display. However, when I open Lightroom on the external display, all the images suddenly seem way too dark. It is the case that this display is generally too dark, because when I view the same picture in a photo viewer or a browser it is not too dark. See for example this screenshot. On the left hand you see an image (export from Lightroom) in my browser, on the right hand the same image in Lightroom. You can clearly see it is much darker. When I view both images on the screen of the notebook itself, there is no difference between them.
Actually, when I move the Lightroom window from the notebook display to the external display, you can clearly see Lightroom adjusting the images from light to dark.
Does anyone know what causes this, and how I can prevent Lightroom from showing the images too dark?
Thanks!

I guess you misunderstood my problem. It's not only that images on the external display are way darker than on the notebook, but also that on the external display images in Lightroom are much darker than when I view the same image on the same display in a photo viewer or a browser. In the screenshot pictured above both the light and the dark version of the image are on the same external display.
However, in the meantime I found a solution. Changing the Windows Color System device profile to a non-WCS-profile did the trick: Photos appear as black, gray rectangles | Lightroom | Windows
Thanks anyway for trying to help.

Print out comes too dark from Design jet T 1300

You are the most unreliable company I have ever seen. I just bought a plotter for over than $7000 and I can’t get hold of someone to tell me why the print comes out too dark.
You can imagine my feedback about your company and your product.
What is most upsetting is that, even though, I live in the US., and I bought the plotter in US., but when I call, some Indian who lives in India answer the phone and give me a useless answer.

the iMac it prints too dark
your print space is off on the Mac
or you are applying the wrong source profile or both
on the MacBook Pro, the prints are also much darker than the screen (despite color calibration
EDIT: sorry i misread that as your monitor was also dark, if the mac displays the problem doc proper, you are targeting a bad print space, that's where i would look...
you app is apply the wrong source profile (or your monitor profile is off)
basing the source>print space conversion on the wrong source profile could account for your printing woes
be sure you are embedding an ICC profile in your doc, are opening it in a color-managed app, and it should display properly
be sure your workflow uses the embedded profile and your printer is setup to convert to the proper printer profile
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My 6500A prints photos far too dark - how do I get round this????

My 6500A prints photos far too dark - how do I get round this???? I can't find any OBVIOUS way of controlling this.

Same problem with the same printer here.
When I send a photo from my phone (via ePrint) the result is not as clear as I would like.
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New Deskjet 1512 prints fonts incorrectly.

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Hey @mewsician ,
Thanks a lot for the question, now lets get you an answer!
So my name is Zac and I will be your 1 to 10 HP Support Representative today. I understand you just got a new HP DeskJet 1512 printer and you got it all set up and printing. congratulations! I see you are getting wrong font printing out on the printer and you want to make the printer type the right font.
The printer does not control the font, the computer that you are printing with does. You need to change the font on the computer. Printers are not capable of changing font as they are not involved in the creation of the document/picture process at all, they just print out what they are told to from the computer. It is simply impossible for the printer to alter the font, even if you tried to.
I hope this helps. Have a great day and a wonderful/ safe holiday season.
I worked for HP.

Grayscale images too dark in InDesign

Hello everyone,
Whenever I place a grayscale image in my InDesign (CS 3) document, it looks far too dark (compared to what I want and what I prepared in Photoshop).
These are the specs of the images: tif, 300 dpi, grayscale, 15% dot gain profile.
I've tinkered with the color settings in InDesign, but nothing seems to change this. Only when I export the InDesign document to pdf and choose 'Convert to destination (preserve numbers) - Working CMYK (Coated Fogra27)' and choose to 'Include destination profile' the photos in the pdf document seem okay again.
What am I doing wrong?
Thanks for your help!
johan

The Gray profile you use in Photoshop gets ignored by ID even if you save it with the grayscale. ID puts the incoming grayscale's values on the black plate unchanged. Using a CMYK profile as the gray space in PS matches ID's color managementthe grayscale previews as it would print on the black plate of a CMYK press. You get a more consistent previewbut it has no affect on output.
The only way you would get a conversion of black or grayscale values to a black+CMY color at output or export would be if the print destination CMYK profile were something other than the document CMYK profile. So if you assign Coated Fogra27 to your document, your printer would have to choose some other profile as the destination printer profile when she outputs separations for black to convert to CMYK.

Printed pictures are too dark

My pictures printed from Iphoto 5 are too dark, I have tried my home printer, kodak, and Fuji. The results are the identical. However, when I import the same pictures in Photoshop CS they print just fine.
I am now having the Aperture 2.1.1 "trial" and i have the same exact problem with my home printer. In addition, some of the pictures (not all of them)are not sharp, they seem out of focus. I have exported the same pictures to my desktop and printed them with "Graphic Converter". The pictures are much better, but i still get a few which seem to be out of focus. I then took the same desktop images and used Photoshop Elements 6 ( also on trial)to print them. Photoshop is printing the pictures correctly (photoshop elements 6 does not have a printing profile for Mac's and the printing is managed by the printer's HP software). I must be missing a printer setting when using the Apple programs. My Aperture colorsync setting is set to "HP D7300 premium plus".I have a 1.8 Ghz G5, OSX 10.4.11, and an HP D7360 printer. Can anyone give me an idea of what i am doing wrong?

Hello Donna,
I use the printer settings:
roll paper
premium semigloss photo paper /250)
color: color
advanced settings: 1440dpi with no other boxes checked
I turn off color management
in LR the Profile I made for this special paper/printer is selected.
It's the latest 9800 printer driver, downloaded just a few days ago.
I came across the endless threads on maybe the same subject only some hours ago. (
Sean McCormack, "Printing Problems in Lightroom" #70, 26 Feb 2007 6:19 pm) Tried the trick with chosing the 9800 as default printer, but it didn't help. The printer settings tell me the profile used is: *systemstandard* (that's german: some sort of default (standard) of the system. Maybe it's the same as the "generic RGB profile" mentioned, but I'm not sure.
I also print from LR on a G5 to an Epson Stylus Pro 3800 via USB with absolutely no problems.
Here I want to print from Lightroom on an Intel Duo Core to a networked printer, the 9800.
I'd LOVE first of all to get a somehow *canonical* statement that printing on a networked printer from Lightroom is possible, Yes or No. (As I said before, it is no problem from PS CS3)
If the common experience is, that one cannot print from LR to a networked (Epson pro) printer, then I'll surely not go on reading tons of discussions to find the needle in the hay.
@ Donna: I'd be very grateful for any suggestions!
@ Andreas: certainly the printer driver on the networked Mac G4 the Epson 9800 is attached to is older than the one on my Intel Mac. Is that what you mean? I'll try to fix that.
@ dyp: the profile shown in the printer setting is: *systemstandard* (system default, in german). Looked up Color Sync in the library, I find the profiles folder, but nothing to chose any profile as my default. Where do you do that in Color Sync?
Thank you all a lot for helping!
Johann

Prints from Photoshop too dark.

I have recently purchased an old Epson Stylus Pro 7800 and have experienced my prints coming out way too dark. I contacted Epson support and through troubleshooting found that if I print with Apple Preview, the image comes out just fine- in terms of darkness- but Photoshop prints too dark. The Epson tech said this was a known problem and to contact Adobe. So, I got on-line to se what I could find and get some help.
Mac OS X 10.9.4
Photoshop CC v14.0 x64
Epson Stylus Pro 7800
Again, please note, that printing from my computer via the Preview App produces correct color and darkness. The issue only happens when trying to print from Photoshop CC
All help appreciated

Often cause by running with your display too bright. Image are darker then they look on screen. Make sure you display is displaying good color and the brightness is set correctly. Hardware calibration is best but IMO is not an absolute requirement.
It is also important not to have the image color managed by Photoshop and you print driver. You should see warning about that in Photoshop Print Dialog. You need to set both Photoshop Print setting and your printer drivers settings to the correct seitting and paper color profiles. I use a Epson 4800 and have Photoshop manager the colors and turn off color management in the 4800 print driver. Paper size and profile set in both. I do run with mu display too bright many do no one complains that the images I post online are too dark. To print good color all I do is add an brightness and saturation adjustment layer on top and boost the brightness 18 to 20%.. View screen capture in new tab or window so you can scale to actual size. You can see my remote printer is running out of yellow....

Hp D7360 photo prints are all too dark or red tinged

every single photo we print we have to manually adjust settings to get it to look like the camera took it and the monitor shows it. they are always too dark or red toned. we do most of our printing in kodak easy share, i've changed color management from rgb to adobes and application manage and i printed from windows and fax viewer the only diffrences are the degree of darkness, is it impossible to just print them without fixing everyone!!! help

Hello Troy-B
The product you have is a commercial printer. I suggest posting in the HP Business Support forum for a better chance at finding a solution.
You may find the Commercial Designjet board here.
http://h30499.www3.hp.com/t5/Printers-Designjet-Large-Format/bd-p/bsc-414
Don't forgot to say thanks by giving "Kudos" to those that help solve your problems.
When a solution is found please mark the post that solves your issue.

Images too dark? colorsync issue or corruption?

I am not sure if this is related to Aperture, or not, but it is impacting the quality of my experience in Aperture...
I have noticed that my MBP2007 display profile seems too dark, and I think there is some preference or application that is loading at startup that is interfering with it. I am using the default LCD profile for the MBP, and have made sure there are no other profiles selected (selecting other profiles does not appear to change the results in any positive way).
Here is what I have observed: I noticed in Aperture that all my images seemed to need correction for being too dark. This is strange, since my Nikon seems to be taking perfectly balanced photos. So I started to dig around and remove all preferences that were associated with any color application I have used. I restarted and noticed that when the desktop image first appeared (a photo I had taken) it looked like it had the correct tonal range. Also, all the images in Aperture looked correct! However, this was short lived, and now each time when I restart, the process starts the same way, with the image appearing correctly at first, but then, as the menu bar started to appear, the image suddenly became too dark, as though a profile had just been applied! I have looked at the Console log, but cannot see anything that looks suspicious in terms of something that may be loading and interfering with the profile. I have tried to delete colorsync preferences, but have not been able to correct the issue again! Any ideas? I am really stumped by this!
Thanks for any help!

Hmm ... interesting. The ICC type MNTR Monitor profile for the display should be shown in the Devices section of the Apple ColorSync Utility.
A generic ICC profile for the make and model of display is shown as Factory Profile and a measured ICC profile for the specific calibration state of the display is shown as Current Profile.
The ICC MNTR profile shown in Apple ColorSync Utility > Devices > Display > Current Profile should be the same as the one shown in System Preferences > Display > Color.
Apple ColorSync 2.5 introduced the VCGT Video Card Gamma Tag that sets the state of the video system to the state described in the measured profile.
This was - and is - intended to do away with the difficulties caused by competing gamma utilities e.g. Knoll Gamma for Photoshop that tried to take control of the video system on startup.
(selecting other profiles does not appear to change the results in any positive way).
The intention of some who were involved in the ICC architecture was that working space profiles would by type SPAC Color Space, but then Apple and Adobe wanted type MNTR Monitor profiles to do this job.
This produced the problem that type MNTR Monitor profiles have to do double duty, both as monitor profiles in which equal amounts of RGB do not produce gray and as working space profiles in which equal amounts of RGB do produce gray.
So, this is why System Preferences > Display > Color shows both measured monitor profiles and monitor profiles for RGB working spaces such as sRGB, eciRGB, adobeRGB and so on and so forth. If you click a profile that is not your measured monitor profile, you reset the video system.
Instead of resetting the video system, as you may be doing, install a good ICC profiling packing, calibrate your monitor, and characterise that state in a monitor profile that will be automatically installed by your ICC profiling package.
Not all problems are configuration problems, some are bugs too, but if one has a sense of what the different dialogues do and how they are supposed to work together then problems produced by system misconfiguration can at least be eliminated in troubleshooting.
/hh

Images too dark on Samsung monitor - please help!

We've just upgraded a Samsung 21" monitor to a Samsung 30" (305T).
In just TWO applications, Photoshop CS3 and Windows Photo Gallery (Vista64), all photographic images are much too dark. Not subtly, about 3-4 f-stops too dark.
EVERY other of our applications INCLUDING ADOBE BRIDGE AND FIREWORKS, and even Photoshop itself during Save to Web, displays the photos as they should appear.
I've tried setting various profiles in Windows Color Management as the default, including the ICC profile sRGB IEC61966-2.1 (which my reading says we should be using), as well as WCS profiles sRGB virtual and scRGB virtual, and tried using no profile at all. None of these changes makes any apparent difference at all to the images we're seeing.
In Photoshop, I've tried various options too. If set to Monitor Color (Monitor RGB - * wscRGB) Photoshop then displays images as it should. However the Camera Raw display when loading Nikon images is still much too dark, and the Photoshop Save to Web images are much too light. Arrrgh!
The monitor does not include any driver software, just electronic documentation (poorly edited) which offers no advice about this. I've seen references to various Gamma utilities, but not sure that's what I need. Is it?
Any help or suggestions would be much appreciated!
TIA

Thanks Peter & Sid. I appreciate the advice, but it doesn't match our experience over 12 years of designing web applications so I'm having trouble understanding what's different, can I ask for any more advice you might have?
If we calibrate the monitor using the recommended tools, will Photoshop images look 2-3 f-stops brighter (i.e. as they should look) and will images in all other apps (which look fine now, have always looked fine) look 2-3 f-stops too bright? Or would we be changing JUST the way Photoshop sees the images?
Through probably a dozen different previous CRT and LCD monitors, we've never calibrated anything. Even on our immediately-previous Samsung 213T monitor, images appear pretty much the same in Photoshop as they do in all other places. That includes published web sites viewed with several popular browsers and viewed on literally hundreds of different systems inside and outside of our office.
The previous monitor was being used with exactly the same software and hardware as the new one. The only thing that's changed is the monitor.
Peter asks about brightness or white point luminance. I haven't used any tool to determine that. The monitor is set to 50% brightness, for whatever that's worth, but I can tell you that it is substantially BRIGHTER on white than the previous monitor. The previous Samsung monitor is being run side-by-side with the new one, and it looks quite dull and yellow beside the new one (and we thought it was a great monitor!) The new 30" Samsung has MUCH whiter whites. Does that help even a little?
Thanks for any further advice.

Canon 1D MkIV images too dark

Hi there
Having a problem here. The RAW images from my Canon 1D Mark IV come in a stop too dark!
When I open them, they lookfine; a second later they switch to a too-dark version. I am using Camera Standard, and no other adjustments.
It's not just visual: the histogram of the opened file is shifter a stop to the left compared to the same phoito's histogram on the camera.
Any ideas? This is a major issue for me since I rely on both the 1D MkIV and Lightroom to make a living...
Many thanks
Michael
www.michaelwillems.ca

Hi M, the question is simple, but the answer is complex. I'll provide an example to try to illustrate. The attached image is a downsampled version of a JPEG from the 1D Mark IV. It's a test picture of a color chart. I've drawn a red circle around the 2nd gray patch in the 4th row. When I take a picture with the 1D Mark IV zoomed into this patch at this exposure, I get a histogram all the way to the right. And indeed, when I open the file in any image editor (e.g., Photoshop, or DPP), and use a color picker / eyedropper to sample the values, the average value of that patch is (255,255,255). So this is like in your example when you say you look at the histogram (e.g., in DPP or on the camera LCD) and it's all the way to the right. In other words, the histogram effectively says this patch is clipped to the max value.
However, if we look at the average raw values in this example for that patch, they are actually (on an 8-bit scale) about (72, 209, 187). In other words, the actual camera-recorded raw values are still pretty far away from clipping to 255. (I should also mention that the camera-recorded raw values aren't white-balanced, which is why the green value is much higher than the red & blue values, above.)
So you can see there is a discrepancy between the camera-produced JPEG and the actual raw values. In this example, the camera histogram and JPEG values indicate a clipped patch at (255,255,255). If you are going by that histogram, then you would conclude reasonably that this patch is overexposed and clipped -- when actually it is not.
More generally, there are always discrepancies / differences between camera-recorded raw values and the histogram shown on the back of the camera (as well as the JPEGs rendered by the camera). This isn't error. This is preference. Cameras and software apply "preset" exposure and tone curve processing (and possibly sharpening, noise reduction, etc.), and the histograms you see on the back of the camera are based on those presets (not the actual raw data). This is why your histogram on the camera will change depending on your in-camera settings of white balance, tone curve, contrast, etc.
There is nothing wrong with the 1D Mark IV. Many Canon DSLRs currently leave a lot of highlight headroom, i.e., when metering they will be conservative on the highlight side, and expose a little less. As I recall (don't have my full notes in front of me), the 1D IV spot meters about 3.5 stops below the actual clipping point. In other words, if I had spot-metered that gray patch in the attached example, and started with the meter needle in the middle, I could then increase the exposure by about 3.5 stops before I actually clip that patch. That's quite a lot.
To summarize: you have to be careful when interpreting camera histograms. In many cases, it is easy to interpret that something is clipped when in fact it is not. If you see a histogram that appears bunched up to the right, the tendency is to decrease the exposure, and therefore make the histogram move to the left (so you aren't overexposing). In reality it is possible the original exposure was fine (without overexposure), and all that's happened is that now the image is even more underexposed.

Gray scale images – too dark

CS5.5 or CC – I have experienced several times that flat grayscale imaged - corrected and nice in PhotoShop turns up much too dark when placed in InDesign.
I make sure no effect or colors are applied to the frame or picture, but still no effect.
If I force transparency on the actual spread (by placing two white items on top of each other, the topmost multiplied on the master page) then it looks correct at once.
It makes no difference if it is a flat grayscale jpg or a psd, even a psd with a white background turns out this way.
Why is that? - Do you know?
BR Nina Storm

ID previews grayscales two different ways, when there's transparency on the page or Overprint Sep Preview is turned on, grayscales preview via the CMYK profile. With no transparency (or an RGB Transparency Blend space) they preview as sGray (2.2 Gamma), which is useful for screen design.
You can use your InDesign document's CMYK profile as the grayscale profile in Photoshop to get more consistent previews between ID and PS. Check this thread:
http://forums.adobe.com/message/6123199#6123199

Deskjet 1512 prints colors/images too dark

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