Dialup speed crawling after attempting to setup ethernet

We live in a rural area where we can not yet get high speed (except Hughes...too expensive--Wild Blue sold out of bandwidth--no one close enough for wireless yet). My dialup worked fine on my Mac until I atempted to setup a mixed Mac/PC 'network' by just connecting the Mac to the PC via the respective ethernet cards using Cat5e (still have not gotten that to work-Help?). Anyway, after messing with the ethernet and dialup settings on the Mac, my dialup (no, I'm NOT sharing the dialup connectioin)on the Mac is now really, really slow. The speed on the PC is normal. The computers both have their own phone jacks. Anyone know why the internet speed on the Mac changed?
Thanks,
Don

In System Pref.\Networking\Internal Modem\Modem, switched to the
--->(v.34).<---
Authenticates MUCH faster too!
All is OK now.
Thanks for all your help!
Don

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Dialup crawling after attempting to setup LAN

We live in a rural area where we can not yet get high speed (except Hughes...too expensive--Wild Blue sold out of bandwidth--no one close enough for wireless yet). My dialup worked fine on my Mac until I attempted to setup a mixed Mac/PC 'network' by just connecting the Mac to the PC via the respective ethernet cards using Cat5e (still have not gotten that to work-Help?). Anyway, after messing with the ethernet and dialup settings on the Mac, my dialup (no, I'm NOT sharing the dialup connectioin)on the Mac is now really, really slow. The speed on the PC is normal. The computers both have their own phone jacks. Anyone know why the internet speed on the Mac changed?
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Dialup speed very slow

We live in a rural area where we can not yet get high speed (except Hughes...too expensive--Wild Blue sold out of bandwidth--no one close enough for wireless yet). My dialup worked fine on my Mac until I attempted to setup a mixed Mac/PC 'network' by just connecting the Mac to the PC via the respective ethernet cards using Cat5e (still have not gotten that to work-Help?). Anyway, after messing with the ethernet and dialup settings on the Mac, my dialup (no, I'm NOT sharing the dialup connectioin)on the Mac is now really, really slow. The speed on the PC is normal. The computers both have their own phone jacks. Anyone know why the internet speed on the Mac changed? I deleted the connection, created a new one and it worked noramlly for about an hour. Now going very slowly again.

Before I obtained broadband, I had three computers sharing a dial up connection. It worked, except for that speed thing. Here is what I did.
Get an Apple Airport Dual Ethernet Basestation (ABS) with modem. I did this back when the Dual Ethernet model came out, so you may have to use eBay to find one. I had a "Snow" model 802.11b made before the Extreme models with 802.11g came out. An Extreme with modem (did they make them that way? Think so, but only for a while) would work.
The advantage of the Apple ABS (with modem) is that you wire your computers or use WiFi as if you were using high speed. When or if you ever get broadband, you disconnect the modem wire and connect the DSL, cable, or satellite box. Make a change of configuration from your Mac and you done.
Back to the story. If both of your computers are wired, you have a problem in that the ABS only has one Ethernet port. This is OK if you can use wireless for the other computers. If not, you need to find a 4 or 8 port Ethernet switch to expand the one port you have on the ABS to many. I got one of these back then cheap ($20 or something). They are not as common now that all routers have multiple ports.
Since the computers don't all request pages at the same time, the setup works better than you might think.
Right now, you've likely got your Mac slightly confused as to where the Internet is coming from, hence it is slow. I've seen this and it can tough to correct.
Hope this helps.
Now to confuse things. There might be a way to have the Mac use the modem to get the Internet and share the Internet with the PC over the Ethernet connection, but I've never done it.
Good luck.

Mac Pro 2006 won't boot after attempted cpu swap, Mac Pro 2006 won't boot after attempted cpu swap

I just picked up a used Mac Pro 1,1 (2006). It has 2x2.0 GHz dual-core processors and 5GB of RAM with the 7300GT card.
In this configuration, the machine was running perfectly. I, of course, wanted to upgrade....
I ordered a pair of 5160 3.0GHz processors cheaply and followed a video tutorial to install them. I used Arctic Cleaner and Arctic Silver 5 for the thermal paste.
Bottom line is: I installed the two new processors and when I fired it up, I could hear the fans, optical drive and hard drives all spinning (normal fan speed - NOT "jet mode", and the HD sounds like it's spinning - NOT like it's booting). NO boot chime and NO display. I popped the cover off and saw the CPU B FAIL light on. I swapped CPUs to test the processor, expecting to see the CPU A FAIL light come on. It did not. It just powered the fans/drives with no result (again, with no boot chime and no display).
To make a long and frustrating story short, I wound up putting one of the original 2.0GHz processors in slot A, leaving B empty (maybe I damaged the socket?) and IT STILL WILL NOT BOOT. I have tried all of my processors - the original 2.0GHz and the new 3.0GHz ones - with the same result. There are NO symtoms or indications - no error LEDs, no beeps - no indication why this machine will not boot.
I have reset the SMC, pulled (and replaced) the coin battery, and left it unplugged for over an hour. I have re-seated everything I can think of.
As of rigt now, I can hear the fans quietly humming with the optical drive making a quiet "click" sound as it seeks for a disk to read, and I can hear the faint chatter of the HD head. The power LED is nice and bright (no flashes or pulses), and there are no red LEDs on inside the case. The memory LEDs flash once during bootup and that's it (it's the RAM the machine came with). Pressing the DIAG LED button tells me the machine has power (green LED), has trickle (yellow LED) and the GPU light flashes green.
Of note, during the swap, I got a tiny bit of thermal paste (non conductive) on the contacts of my 2.0 CPUs - which I cleaned off with alcohol and let dry. The gold contacts all appear to be good on the original processors. I can't really see the tiny little pins in the CPU sockets (my eyes are not as young as they used to be!), but the "look" like they're all there.
I'm going to leave this unplugged overnight, but does anyone have any ideas?? If I managed to somehow destroy ALL of the CPUs, wouldn't I get a warning LED or beep or something? Ideas are welcome, as I cannot afford to replace this machine - it has to get me the rest of the way through college.
thanks
Richard

Hello Grant
>
Hardware sets the fans to maximum, and only properly-operating software resets them to "normal levels. If you have fans at normal levels, some software is running.
>
That's what I was thinking, but I'm not even getting the startup chime, and the HD sounds like it's powered on but not doing anything.
EDITED TO ASK: what software could be running at this point? Nothing has loaded from the HD, that much I know...
>Do you still have CPU A or CPU B failure lights?
No. I have just one original processor installed in the CPU A socket. No lights of any kind. (Even if I install an original processor in CPU B, I still occasionall will get a CPU B FAIL light, so I'm thinking I damaged the socket somehow...the light will not be consistent, but it's always the CPU B FAIL light - the light only turns on some of the time (and stays on once lit) - so that's why I pulled the B processor and am simply trying to boot with A alone)
>Do you have a flashing power on light, indicating failed or no memory?
Again, no. I can "make" the light flash by removing the memory riser, but when I re-install the riser, the light stops blinking (with power off during removal/install, of course!)
>Have you done the more severe SMC reset with the reset button OR:
unplug AC power.
Yes. I have used the SMC reset button 3 or 4 times. I unplugged the machine and left it (with coin battery installed) for an hour. The last thing I did last night was that I left it unplugged overnight (with coin battery removed). I have yet to attempt a power on this morning. I will do so and report back.
>
unplug AC power.
Press and hold power-on for a quarter minute to drain the power capacitors.
Re-plug AC power.
wait a quarter minute.
then power on.
>
Haven't done that one yet. (Didnt know about it!). Will try that second today, after attempting the initial boot up after leaving it unplugged all night. (fingers crossed) Of course, the capacitors are likely discharged now after being unplugged and battery-less all night, but you never know...
>Many things have to get synchronized after a CPU swap. It may take a half-dozen reset attempts before everything lines up again and goes.
Thanks for the hope. I will keep trying.
>
I recommmend you remove ALL distractions: all drives, all graphics cards, all PCI cards, all USB devices -- until you get the chime nothing else matters.
Already have done so. Last night I was down to 1 original CPU (CPU A), one memory riser with 1 set of original 1GB DIMMS, 1 bootable HD and nothing else (not even a keyboard/mouse - literally NOTHING else). Will keep trying in this configuration. All I really wanted last night was to hear the "bong" at power on!
Will do a bit more troubleshooting today and will report back.
Thank you!
Richard
Message was edited by: Richard Williams Jr

Slow speeds even after BT Engineer visit, Whats ne...

We've always had really slow internet speeds, around 1.5mbs down 0.4mbs up. (From the BT speed tester)
After many conversations with the helpdesk, an Engineer was sent out today to try and solve our speed issue.
Various tests were carried out on the line, all reported back as a good quality line. S/N ratio was 96% etc.
We are located pretty close to the exchange and the engineer has said we should be getting alot more than what we are. He has tried a reset on the line but this hasnt improved anything.
Whats the next step? Do we contact the helpdesk again? Are there more advanced level of engineers, i.e. for exchange issues?
All of the standard checks have been done :-
- using main socket only. (BT Openreach ADSL)
- line test 17070 option 2, results in a very faint crackle but could be the handset
- BT Home Hub 2, package is BT Broadband Option 3 (unlimited)
- The exchange is Billingshurst and has ADSL Max enabled
- The engineer has now installed a dedicated socket. (phone and internet on the socket). Previously we had tried two sepereate filters.
- wired conection
- Hub is left on 24/7
Our next door neighbour is on an identical package/setup to us and gets 3.7mb down on the speed test.
The engineer has just reset the line hence the time log being low. Currently measuring at 1.2mb down, so slightly lower than before.
The Noise margin was at 6.5db, the engineer reset this down to 6db and it has slowly krept to the figure below:-
ADSL Line Status
Connection Information
Line state:
Connected
Connection time:
0 days, 06:24:11
Downstream:
1.938 Mbps
Upstream:
416 Kbps
ADSL Settings
VPI/VCI:
0/38
Type:
PPPoA
Modulation:
G.992.1 Annex A
Latency type:
Interleaved
Noise margin (Down/Up):
6.2 dB / 7.0 dB
Line attenuation (Down/Up):
14.9 dB / 6.5 dB
Output power (Down/Up):
20.1 dBm / 12.4 dBm
FEC Events (Down/Up):
0 / 305
CRC Events (Down/Up):
0 / 0
Loss of Framing (Local/Remote):
0 / 0
Loss of Signal (Local/Remote):
0 / 0
Loss of Power (Local/Remote):
0 / 0
HEC Events (Down/Up):
0 / 0
Error Seconds (Local/Remote):
50550 / 5359
Whats the next step?
Do we have to wait 5 days again, to see if the reset this time makes a difference?
From reading other posts our noise margin and line attention looks pretty good.
Solved!
Go to Solution.

ok there is certainly something restricting your connection speed as i posted earlier you should be connecting at 8mb with your current noise margin and attenuation
you say about a slight crackle there should be no noise heard on the could you try another handset
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Dialup speed crawling after attempting to setup ethernet

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