Diamond Plus, Audigy and the shared IRQ

Hi all,
So I've started noticing that while playing videogames with a SLI setup that the sound can become a little distored (but quite distracting) while using hardware audio.  I think that it's down to a shared IRQ with one of my graphics cards.  So my question is: would getting a stand alone sound card solve this problem?  And is there a way to determine which PCI slot is mapped to which IRQ, so that it doesn't end up sharing another IRQ with a graphics card?  I don't much fancy having to test every PCI slot   Also, how do you disable the onboard Audigy in BIOS?  And has anyone got any suggestions for a stand alone sound card?  Are the X-Fi cards any good?
Many thanks,
Quintus

the sad thing with the xfi is that you can hear what its trying to do but the pops and other noises you get spoil it way too much. on creatives forum there have been many posts on suggested solutions none have worked on my diamond motherboard+ the promiss of a driver fix. latest diddnt fix it.creative now say the blame is on the n force 4  motherboards though many users of other motherboards are saying they also have the same problems.not to sure what nvidia have to say but i dont hold much hope in creative fixing it. new motherboard bios   might thuough.i have to say i think they are best avoided unless you can borrow  one and check it works ok in your pc. ps my xfi isnt sharing any irqs but i still have sound issues.

Similar Messages

  • K8N Diamond Plus, SLI and Creative X-Fi cards, anyone running similar?

    Hi there!
    I've got an ASUS A8N32-SLI board and my X-Fi card does not work with it, nor does it for many other people with similar setups.
    See here:
    http://forums.creative.com/creativelabs/board/message?board.id=soundblaster&message.id=31426
    and here:
    http://forums.creative.com/creativelabs/board/message?board.id=soundblaster&message.id=26289
    I get crackling and popping noises when running most games, e.g. BF2, Fear, FarCry.  When my 2x7800GTX's are in SLI mode it crackles loads, e.g. start far cry, click options, and listen.  When i disable SLI mode it crackles less, but it still crackles.  Many others encounter similar issues with their systems that are not identical but the symptoms are similar - high load = crackling/popping.
    My question is:
    Is anyone here sucessfully running any X-Fi card (music, fatality, elite pro, etc) with 2x video cards and NO crackling/popping in BF2, FEAR and FarCry?
    I've already had a replacement X-Fi card from creative which their tech guy said "should" fix it, lol, I'm wondering wether to replace my A8N32-SLI with an K8N Diamond Plus to fix the problem.  Besides, the MSI board has better PCI slot location and works with nTune too unlike the ASUS board.

    What's going on guys.
    I hate to see peep's having soooo many prob's and it sucks major BALLZ. The reason why I'm reposting is that I encountered a new issue. Not with my rig, but a friend's.
    We pretty much have the same setup. Differences are he's using 2GB of Corsair DDR400 (which is picking up as DDR333 as well), different branded video cards (I'm running two EVGA 7800GT's in SLi, he's running two BFG 7800GT's in SLi), XFi Platinum (me, Fatality Edition) and he's got a dedicated ITE RAID PCI card for his RAID from his previous rig. Configured his BIOS pretty much the same way I have it running (he wanted to Overclock his AMD x2 4400+ to 2.6 GHz), but when it came to installing Windows we kept getting BSOD's during installation. Looked over things numerous times and it didn't make sense. We resetted the BIOS to default settings and Windows went through without a hitch. We tried OC'ing it one more time and Windows was fine. But, when he installed and ran Quake 4, either Windows or the game would just lock up. He booted back into the BIOS and put the CPU back at stock frequency of 2.2 GHz. Game ran flawlessly afterwards. That points at the processor. The only differences were we both have different stock fans and his CPU was manufactured in July '05. Mine in Sept '05. His rig also reports the infamous "Phantom" PCI modem as well.
    Quake 4 is the only game he's got installed so far, but he reports everything is set to their highest qualities, including resolution. He said it runs great with no anomalies. He's going to install Dawn of War and Winter Assault later I know.
    Me? I haven't run into any issues with any games either, including F.E.A.R. as Hydrasworld asked. Both of our sound cards are in the Communication PCI Slot of the motherboard. My take on the OC issue is since we're using different proc's from different wafers, maybe my chip had revisions in September that the July proc my friend has didn't. Also, his heatsink has one less copper pipe I noticed. I'll still drop by for help. Good luck to you all and the only other thing I can add is try using the latest drivers for each piece of hardware you've got.
    LPB
    P.S. If you can and you purchased a retail version of the processor, on one of the sides of the carton insert for the processor, a date should be printed. Maybe that can explain some issues. Once more, my proc was manufactured September 15th, 2005.

  • Finally got round to buying an iPhone 4, really excellent to start with. The sharing of music from my Mac Mini was excellent. ios6 update has ruined all that! The artist view miss's out most of my music and the sharing sometimes doesn't work at all!

    Finally got round to buying an iPhone 4, really excellent to start with. The sharing of music from my Mac Mini was excellent. ios6 update has ruined all that! The artist view miss's out most of my music and the sharing sometimes doesn't work at all!
    How do I get this feature working again? I am reluctant to move to iTunes 10.7 because I don't trust Apple at the moment.

    My suggestion:
    1) Always using MAC AIR with the power plug in.
    2)Don' let the power level of battory fall under 30% percentage.
    3)If the MAC can't be recharged now, just let it be with power plugged, WAIT...

  • TS1165 When sharing a project I get "frame 72938 (error -1)." and the sharing is stopped. What is this and how do I fix it. Thanks, Kerry

    When sharing a project I get "frame 72938 (error -1)." and the sharing is stopped. What is this and how do I fix it. Thanks, Kerry

    I have an iMac, Processor: 2.7 GHz Intel Core i5, memory: 8 GB 1333 MHz DDR3, OSX 10.7.5, FCPX 10.0.8. I have no third party plugins. First time responding to community. Forgive any protocol errors.
    Been working on variety of work projects for months prior to update with no problems. Took time off for a simple new project after updating to 10.0.8. Finished this small (11 minute) new project that is a combination of video and stills, with a few titles and simple transitions. Plays fine within FCPX, however, ran into same problem that started this chain, ie cannot share/export without getting same error message stated above related to a faulty frame.
    Tried several share/export Master File settings. Tried moving project (from within FCPX) to another drive which resulted in same error message, but related to other different frames. Tried replacing original data in affected frame with freshly exported replacement files using QTime. Same problem again. Was able to export to Compressor, but resulting ProRes 422 file was so jumpy it wasn't usable.
    Tried suggestions of Mark M 98021 and Hank LV, ie, halting all rendering in preferences and deleting render files. After this, I was successful in sharing/exporting at will.
    I have several other major projects that I am afraid to return to. I'm not an expert at the inner workings of FCPX and don't have time to keep dealing with this issue. I can leave rendering off, but not a satisfactory solution. Not sure if old rendered files might become infected.
    It would seem that there is a problem in the update. I hope this is corrected so I can continue with my work.

  • K8n diamond plus audigy se specs conflict

    hi!
    i just happen to see certain websites and review pages, saying that the k8n diamond plus sb audigy is able to support 24 bit, 192 khz audio. however, on the official website and some other websites, it say the audigy supports 24 bit, 96 khz. which is the correct specs?
    by the way, does the ca0106 supports dolby digital ex and dts decoding?

    Quote from: leekh on 19-July-06, 10:57:35
    hi!
    i just happen to see certain websites and review pages, saying that the k8n diamond plus sb audigy is able to support 24 bit, 192 khz audio. however, on the official website and some other websites, it say the audigy supports 24 bit, 96 khz. which is the correct specs?
    by the way, does the ca0106 supports dolby digital ex and dts decoding?

  • K8N Diamond plus HSF and memory compatability question

    I am considering this board since I need a good onboard sound chip to utilize my front breakout box.    At this time I have an opteron 180, a Zalman 7700 and 2 gb kit of Corsair XMS TWINX2048-3500LLPRO on the way from ZZF.  I had planned on using this on an Asus A8N SLI deluxe but if the hardware is compatible I would rather have the SB onboard than the Realtek on the Asus.
    Does anyone know if the Zalman will fit on this board and clear the northbridge heatsink and fan?  I had seen in another post the the MSI boards might not care for Corsair to well,  any validation on this?
    Thanks!

    Tricker61,
    As you can see by my signature I am using the Diamond Plus with a full two pair of TWINX2048-3500LLPRO’s.
    It was not plug them in a go, but it just requires setting the memory up manually, which is really set forward.
    The only problem is that the current BIOS do not the memory to SPD values and here is a list of setting you will have to set manually.
    (1)   FSB/Memory Ratio is set by default to 1:2, which needs to be changed to 1:1.
    (2)   Memory Module Voltage Corsair spec is 2.7 – 2.9, default BIOS setting is 6.5V.  I am running mine at 2,75V.
    (3)   Corsair spec timing 2,3,2,6, BIOS Default is 2,3,2,5 so you need to set that.
    As far as memory set for your Corsair memory you have they are working fine and system is stable.
    You wanted 2.6 GHz; I am currently run FSB of 225 MHZ and with default multiplier of x12, which is one BIOS defaults that is correct.  My system running solid at 2.7 GHz and the memory is running DDR450, which better the Corsair spec.
    Therefore, with the memory modules you should get the performance you said you wanted.  I feel with all the memory setting corrected I could running it up more, first 225 MHz is the speed I could not make with default BIOS setting and I am not and Over-clocker like you, if want a good solid fast system.
    If you have not purchased a case yet, make it a big one with lots of fans.  I am using the Cooler Master CM Stacker 810 and have just moded the case to add two extra right side 120mm input fans in place of the stock 80mm fan and I am just starting to get the system temperatures under control.  With to two new fans that makes 4 120mm input fans and 120mm, 85mm and the power supplies 135mm fan for exhaust.  I have been using 120mm fan with 35 to 40 CFM each, to try and keep the noise down, but it looks like an a few more CFM to input fans and put up with the added.  But it is a nice system now, you the noise of the air flow , but no actual fan sounds, except for the Graphics Card when is cycles it fan to high speed, which much less with two add right side 120mm fans.
    Hope this information helps you selecting components for your new system.
    Roger
    When submitting a problem, include a complete list of your system components; include part numbers, all Power Supply Voltages, and their output ratings.  It is almost impossible to estimate what your problem is without knowing something about it. 

  • I took a picture using camera plus app and the photo shows up in my camera roll; however, when I tap to view it a gray box shown instead. I tried to download the image and only the gray box shows. Can anyone help me?

    I took a picture using camera plus app. The photo shows up in my camera roll as a thumbnail; however, when I tap to view the photo it comes up as a gray box. I tried downloading, emailing, and copying the picture, but it always saves as a gray box. Can anyone help me?

    Hi Giorgiovdb!
    Unfortunately I cannot help you; all I did was test for you.
    I did an upgrade over my Lion install with Mountain Lion which went fine. I just tested icon view in my Finder on different files and folders and here in my installation all stays fine; good readable like in column view!
    The only thing you might try is change your Font in Finder and set it back to the original afterwards!
    I quickly Google'd how to change fonts in the Finder as appearantly there's no obvious gui item for it:
    http://usermanifest.wordpress.com/2012/07/06/osx-finder-title-bar-font/
    Try to see if it brings you anywhere!
    At my post all fonts act normal after my upgrade to Mountain Lion; I don't do a clean install unless I really have to!
    Goodluck!
    Gaytan

  • Why isnt the iPad 3 having the blur effect in Control Centre plus Siri and the Notification Center anymore?

    I heard that beta 4 had the blur effect but since beta 5 the blur effect vanished and now my iPad looks ugly after update...how does it look beautiful when Apple hasn't supported the blur in iPad two and three!! Hope this is a bug...

    I bought the 64gb 3G iPad 1 and the 64gb LTE iPad 3.... My understanding at the time was that Apple has amazing support for older devices so it was worth it to me to spend close to $1000 for each iPad... But now... Seeing that they remove things like Blur Effects and Air Drop from devices that could support it, and they keep Siri off the iPad 2 even though the iPad mini gets ALL of these features... Good job, Apple, you taught me that it's not worth it to spend $1000 on an iPad when we all can be guaranteed you won't support it anymore after just two years. It's just not worth it.
    It's also sad that they don't have enough confidence in their new products, they have to intentionally cripple the older ones just to make the newer ones look that much better.
    I thought Apple was better than this. It's a bummer.... I was tempted to get the iPad 5 now, but 16gb is the most I would spend at this point knowing it will be obsolete and uglified within 2 years, not to mention 16gb is so low...I mean ***. Are we to believe that storage requirements haven't changed from iPad 1 ( a time when people weren't even sure what an iPad would be good for) and iPad 5 when people are creating content left and right.... 16gb is ridiculous... The pricing is an insult. At this point if they bumped 32gb to the bottom tier it would still be outdated. It should be 64gb, 128gb, 256gb....
    So for all of these reasons, it feels like Apple is trying to talk me out of buying a new iPad more than they are trying to sell me on one.

  • K8N Diamond Plus has left the building

    Died yesterday while playing Zuma on Yahoo Games...not exactly really processor intensive.  I got the Blue Screen of Death and the system shut down.  It has not started up since.  D-Bracket LEDs show hanging at "initialize hard drive controller."  Ive not had any problems with this system prior to yesterday, so I've got no clue where to start.  Any suggestions?
    CPU:  Athlon 64 3200+ Venice Core, not overclocked
    2Gb Corsiar XMS PC3200 RAM  (2x1024MB)
    HD:  2x Seagate Barracuda 250MB SATA II (no RAID)
    GPU: MSI Raedon X800XL PCI x16
    NEC 3550A DVD-R/RW
    Thanks.

    Well the obvious thing to try first is to eliminate that cmos memory holding your settings thats resides inside nvidia chipset is gone corrupt.
    Do this by removing AC , setting cmos jumper in clear , pop battery , and leave it like that over night .
    Also check that the chipset fan is still operating , cause if it died the chipset which controls all onboard stuff like
    nv hd controller may be damaged if chipset chip overheated .

  • TS2972 I have done all of these things and the sharing is still not working. Please help

    I have shared itunes on my other computers, but for some reason it is not working on mynew one.  I have turned the firewall off on both and have done everything else, and it still won't work. Please help!

    Scan the Support Community sites. Apple TV losing connection is prevalent. The many postings point out the problem occurs with Apple TV1,2and 3; with different brands of router including Airport Extreme; from current and past versions of iTunes; after varying periods of working well.....minutes, hours, days; losing connection with Home Sharing and loosing Airplay; whether the router and Apple TV are in same room or separated by distance; after trying innumerable posted 'fixes'; after exchanging for a new Apple TV.
    Readers, please don't post a fix until you check it works for atleast a week.

  • MOVED: Diamond Plus - problems with the windows clock anyone?

    This topic has been moved to AMD64 nVidia Based board.
    https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=94558.0

    By default Windows will Sychronise the clock once e week.
    Windows might think that you are in a different timezone.....
    If it was CMOS related, the clock would be set back a few years after each time the power gets cut of.

  • Why doesn't the pop-up icon indicating an ongoing Handoff not showing up on my MacBook Air dock? But it shows up on my iPhone 6 Plus. And the Handoff works on both devices.

    Pop-up icon indicating an ongoing Handoff is not showing up on my MacBook Air dock.

    Trouble With Syncing Mac Photo Stream to iPhone

  • Exchange 2010 Enterprise - Online Archive not visible in office 2013 professional plus and mailbox shared

    Hi!
    Outlook 2013 professional plus was working perfectly weeks ago, then out of nowhere new profiles doesn't have visible in Outlook the online archive and the shared mailboxes, however it shows up in OWA.
    It was given full permission for those users with no results, online archive is enabled, profiles were already deleted and recriated.
    The older profiles work perfectly.
    We have the services ActiveSync, Autodiscover, Outlook Anywhere, OWA and they're all working with no errors.
    Regards 
    Tiago Barradas

    Hi Tiago,
    From your description, OWA works work, so your Exchange server is ok.
    I recommend you check the following thing for troubleshooting:
    Please configure a mail profile with another user who has an Online Archive on that machine and check the result. If it works well, there is something with the problematic mailbox. If the issue persists, the issue is related to your Outlook.
    Hope it helps.
    Best regards,
    Amy
    Amy Wang
    TechNet Community Support

  • Exchange 2010 Enterprise – Online Archive not visible in Office 2013 Professional Plus and the Share mailbox.

    Hi!
    Outlook 2013 professional plus was working perfectly weeks ago, then out of nowhere new profiles doesn't have visible in Outlook the online archive and the shared mailboxes, however it
    shows up in OWA.
    It was given full permission for those users with no results, online archive is enabled, profiles were already deleted and recriated.
    The older profiles work perfectly.
    We have the services ActiveSync, Autodiscover, Outlook Anywhere, OWA and they're all working with no errors.
    Regards 

    Hi,
    According to my known, this issue could be caused by Outlook cannot reach SCP so cannot get autodiscover.xml.Issue with creating folders caused by missing on TS following registry entry:
    HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Wow6432Node\Microsoft\Office\15.0\Outlook\Namespaces\{0006F017-0000-0000-C000-000000000046}\FolderTypes
    Could you please check it?

  • MSI K8N Diamond Plus - Guide to my first week

    OK, not a newb here, but been around the block quite a bit.   MSI K8N Diamond Plus is my 5th A64 mobo (ECS K8M800, my daily undestroyed computer, K8T800, my 12 year olds gamer, Asus A8V Deluxe, first 939 system, Abit AN8 SLI, first SLI gamer, and now the MSI Diamond Plus).   Had the KDP (K8N Diamond Plus) for more than a week now, and here's what I've learned.
    This is state of the art again, and we have no one to blame but ourselves for the pain this causes us when we upgrade like lunatics 
    And as usual, the drivers and BIOS are al Dente (i.e. not cooked enought yet, a little raw)
    MSI is also oddly silent on this system, which is wierd, as they are a large company, and specifically cater to enthusiasts.  But their BIOS guys are MIA.  Hopefully this will not be forever.  Asus, ABIT, DFI, Epox are always fast with fixes
    The board is a nice design, with everything basically accessible, as much as any other board.   Lots of purposeful components, not too many dumb frills.  No tooty fruity colors, but rather practical parts.
    The new 2 piece NForce chipset is fine, and the MSI guys gave us a decent, but funky cooler.  It gets a little warm to the touch when you pound on it with Prime95, or Quake4, but other than that it is fine
    The manual has a zillion typos, and fortunately for us in this forum, we have shared what we've learned.  The translation from Chinese to English leaves quite a bit to be desired, and hopefully, MSI will learn from Asus and Abit and get a better translation service.  In 2006 this is just plain stupid, especially with a $225 board   
    As usual, the mobo supplied tweaker utilities are just aweful.  They look like a hallucination from a Hunter S Thompson book, and they work about as well.  Core center is a sad state of affairs, and the rest of them just burrow their way into your otherwise stable system and cause it to have poor behavior.  And therefore as usual, the BIOS is the best way, if slowest, to tweak this bundle of parts
    Which brings us to the BIOS.  IMHO, the worst one I've seen on a high end board.  ZERO explanation for half the settings (this is not strange in and of itself, BIOS is still a black art, but in a tweakers board, we should have some basic explanation  )
    There seem to be adequate settings in the BIOS for all sorts of doodads and gizmos, but who the heck knows what half of them are.  Roger points out rightfully, that we now need to "Tune" across all these different intermediary bus structures and test.  But with the lack of info from either NVidia, MSI or anyone else for that matter, its kinda hard to know where to start.
    The board is clearly sensitive, which is a result of it being high strung.  This is no different than any "first out" product I've ever bought.  Most take 2 or 3 turns of the crank to get totally stable and forgiving.  This one hated my OCZ platinum EL 2Gb kit memory, and it brought out the worst in one of the SLI based EVGA 7800 GT COs.   These components worked in the Abit AN8 SLI (although not always great), but the MSI has ZERO tolerance for even the slightest pertubation from the memory.  It was BSOD city until I removed both of these components by process of elimination that took probably 100 hours
    Once I removed the bad components, and replaced the memory with Geil Ultra X 2x512 2-2-2-5, it worked great, ran Prime95 for 10 hours with no errors, and seems reasonably stable.  I've RMA-d the bad 7800GT CO back to EVGA, and will report back on how SLI behaves when I get the new one (cross shipped of course, I haveno patience )
    I also now need to replace the 2Gb RAM kit with something that the board will tolerate.  I may RMA the 2Gb kit back to OCZ and try another one, but I dunno.   I love OCZ but I have a bad feeling about this, even though they have great!!! support.  I may try OCZ PC4000 or the RAM that Roger successfully used.
    I did upgrade to the 1.16 BIOS, and found that some new things were added, as well as voltage control in Cell was a little better, but registration of changes in voltage is still a disaster.   I adjusted a bunch of times, it didn't register, and I ended up smoking a new A64 3700+ Diego with 1.95 volts, even though the BIOS claimed it was 1.53.  I had to rebot to see what was going on.   The Thermalright XP-90 kept the proc from melting down through the earth
    Finally, I hope this board attracts more people, and therefore more tweakers that can figure out all these gadgets and settings.  Everyone flocked to the Asus X16 SLI product, which is too bad, as this one needs lots o' folks to hack it up for us to figure out what is going on.
    The on board Creative audio sounds lousy to my ears, and I will replace it with an Audigy 2ZS gamer that I had in the Abit.  It just sounds better, but hopefully the drivers will not trash my newly stable system.   Creative scares me, they scare me alot.
    I've been able to get the CPU up to 2.4Ghz, with a .5 volt bump to the CPU and 2.9 volts into the Geil memory.  So far, so stable, no smoke coming out yet 
    I hope this info is somewhat valuable to someone on this board.  I will post details of all changes that I make, as others are doing, so we can at least take care of ourselves with this thing.

    Quote from: nanohead on 15-February-06, 01:17:10
    Which brings us to the BIOS.  IMHO, the worst one I've seen on a high end board.  ZERO explanation for half the settings (this is not strange in and of itself, BIOS is still a black art, but in a tweakers board, we should have some basic explanation  )
    There seem to be adequate settings in the BIOS for all sorts of doodads and gizmos, but who the heck knows what half of them are.  Roger points out rightfully, that we now need to "Tune" across all these different intermediary bus structures and test.  But with the lack of info from either NVidia, MSI or anyone else for that matter, its kinda hard to know where to start.
    first of all, i do think that all the settings in the BIOS have an explanation in the manual, even if it's a basic one. if that explanation doesn't tell you everything in detail, is because if you do need a detailed explanation of the settings, you probably shouldn't be messing around with those settings.
    Quote from: nanohead on 15-February-06, 01:17:10
    I did upgrade to the 1.16 BIOS, and found that some new things were added, as well as voltage control in Cell was a little better, but registration of changes in voltage is still a disaster.   I adjusted a bunch of times, it didn't register, and I ended up smoking a new A64 3700+ Diego with 1.95 volts, even though the BIOS claimed it was 1.53.  I had to rebot to see what was going on.   The Thermalright XP-90 kept the proc from melting down through the earth.
    wanna tell me how did you get 1.95V on that mobo?
    Quote from: nanohead on 15-February-06, 01:17:10
    I've been able to get the CPU up to 2.4Ghz, with a .5 volt bump to the CPU and 2.9 volts into the Geil memory.  So far, so stable, no smoke coming out yet 
    a 0.5V  bump? again, you must be joking. maybe 0.05V.

Maybe you are looking for