Diamond Plus SLI Mysteries starting to expose themselves.... LONG

Arg...  to many shots in the dark with folks' SLI problems and the new SLI X16 getup .  Probably not the power supply, nor the video cards, not the memory, nor anything else obvious.  It may be those things, but after weeks of experimentation, there seem to be lots of other things to look at as well.   I've discovered several things about this mobo that didnt appear obvious in the beginning.
The obscure BIOS settings seem to matter in SLI mode, not in single card mode.  I think I'm starting to understand why.  Also, most of the drivers that are out there from Nvidia simply suck, and the right combination has to occur for the whole thing to remain stable, especially in SLI mode. WHQL has NOTHING to do with it, which I discovered after much pain and deinstalls and reinstalls.
The board comes set up from MSI in a conservative state, not prepared for SLI, or at least balanced SLI performance.   This can be witnessed in the Hypertransport settings in the Cell menu, where all NON CPU specific HT settings are 8x8 and 800Mhz.  This is clearly a setting for ONE video card, as it will create an I/O imbalance between the regular SLI ASIC (now the new southbridge) and the new SPP (system platform processor in Nvidia speak) ASIC.  Each of these 2 ASICs provide 20 lanes of PCI express each.   Each Vid card needs a complete 16 unencumbered lanes from its respective bridge chip to function properly in SLI mode, cuz if not, then one will simply not keep up and cause corruption.
I set this up and repeated the experiments several times and found the following.   It appears that for SLI to function properly, the HT settings between the Northbridge, Southbridge and CPU must be set to 1000Mhz and 16 16, in order to balance I/O thoughout the system.  This makes sense as it could starve 1 of the Vid Cards for data, the one on the Southbridge most likely (methinks that this is true because of how the new Northbrige appears to be directly wired to the CPU, while the southbridge is now servicing all other I/O).  This is so because the Northbridge has 1 set of 16 lane PCIE and the Southbrige has the other set of 16 lanes.  This is how the SLI X16 is enabled to provide 16 full lanes to each Vid card. 
If 1 of the PCIE slots is pumping I/O at a full 1Ghz, 16 bits in each direction, while the other is choked at 800Mhz and 8 bits in each direction, then there will be starvation on the second slot and the card that is in it when it comes to rendering large scale images at high speed.  Makes total sense.  In the networking world, its referred to as under and oversubscription. 
However, in this case, it is unobvious cuz the MSI docs (asus, abit, indeed Nvidia too) all suck and don't tell us what to do or how to think about this stuff. 
As far as drivers go, that is a mystery train wreck as well. 
If you are basically familiar with NVidia drivers, then you know that they create all the building blocks, and then their OEMs take those building blocks and package them together to suit their needs.   The binaries of the actual drivers don't change, but definitions, information and config files change, as does packaging.  Thats why regardless of who provides the complete driver set, the Nvidia launcher starts at some point during the installation.   
What Nvidia releases on their website will most likely work with all Nvidia products, but not necessarily well.   The X16 mobo chipset has its own release, and I've noticed that some of the folks here have used the regular SLI driver set.  That may not work that well, or at all, because while the southbridge is identical to the regular SLI single chip, the northbridge is brand new, and somewhere in the driver, messaging between these two has to be arbitrated.   So that's the first issue.   
MSI ships mobo driver version 6.82 with the Diamond Plus, but Nvidia is currently presenting 6.85 on their website.  What's the difference?  It seems to be just the ethernet driver if you compare the packing lists (the SMBus looks different too, but I think its a typo as MSI's appears "newer" than the Nvidia one, which is simply not likely as its a silicon device driver that would come from Nvidia )
So for all intents and purposes, the two releases are the same if you do not use the Nvidia Gigabit Ethernet adapter (which I do not, I only use the Marvell, much faster and lower CPU consumption).  If you use the Nvidia GigE adapter, then there may be some kind of an upgrade here. 
Now on to the Graphics drivers.   Nvidia lists 81.98 as their current WHQL version.  This is a BFD version    WHQL means nothing really, as its a self certification in parts, and Microsoft cannot test all the components anyway, as there are zillions of driver types for windows.    There are currently about 30, (yes, you read that right THIRTY) known and CURRENT graphics driver sets for NVidia GeForce graphics ASICs (chips that is).  Ever hear of 82.65, 83.62, 83.40....  how about the hackers current fave 82.12.   Yup there are plenty of em.  Mostly OEM releases for laptops and stuff, but many of them have actual bug fixes in them, albeit you have to read through copius release notes to figure that stuff out.  (wow reading, what a concept)
I had bad luck with 81.98, but 82.12 worked better, although SLI performance became half of 1 vid card (not good, suppose to go the other way    )   But 83.90 is working well so far, even though its a laptop release apparently.   
So the short of it is, that we are on our own with this SLI scheme as we were before.  There is precious little information about X16, and most of the original SLI info is either dated, or marketing speak with little or no substance to the zillions of frustrated gamers who cannot get their stuff to work well. 
Hope this info is somewhat helpful, as I pieced it together from lots of disjointed data here and there, including technical briefs, press clippings, various articles and some websites.   I'd be interested if folks either agree or disagree with some of these assertions, or if you've found similar or contradicting info, as I want my system to be stable so I CAN KILL STROGG and the like 

Quote from: Bas on 19-March-06, 17:56:24
Many have tried, most failed.....just because those dual-12V-PSU's stink....
Try the OCZ Powermax 520W, yes that one, it has all the connectors en a nice SINGLE 33A @ 12V....that one will do the trick just fine.
Read this stuff, it's very related http://www.theinquirer.net/?article=29940
It's not the board, not the videocards, not the drivers....it's your PSU!, those multiple 12V rail ones plain don't have what it takes to handle such systems, that's the problem.
Minimum PSU Requirements from the evga website:
1.  7900gtx single - 450w psu with 22a on the 12v rail
2.  7900gtx sli - 550w psu with 34a on the 12v rail
3.  7900gt single - 400w psu with 20a on the 12v rail
4.  7900gt sli - 500w psu with 28a on the 12v rail
5.  7600gt single - 350w psu with 18a on the 12v rail
6.  7600gt sli - 450w psu with 24a on the 12v rail
Plus, the new nvidia cards require less power than the previous 7800 and 6800 series video cards.  Also if you decide on an ATI card(s), they require more power than these 7900 series video cards too.  There you have it in black and white directly from a video card manufacturer.
http://www.evga.com/products/moreinfo.asp?pn=512-P2-N570-AX
Regarding PSUs - I have now the OCZ 520w and Tagan 480w - both are solid and heavy and the shielding looks to be made of the same material:
OCZ PS 520w - 33a on the 12v rail, adjustable 3.3v, 5v, 12v rails, blue LED bling factor - 2 shielded 6-pin vga power cables and 2 4-pin shielded hdd cables, 1 sata power cable (2 connectors) - 23dba
Tagan 480w U22 - 30a on the 12v rail, option to split into 2 12v rails, no LED bling - 2 shielded 6-pin vga power cables and 2 sata power cable (4 connectors) - 22dba
Tagan 580w U22 - 36a on the 12v rail, same features at 480w U22 - 24dba
My recommendation, if you need the bling and power, the ocz ps 520w has it.  If you need more power, the tagan 580w U22 has it, if you need the least expensive psu the tagan 480w U22 is the way to go ($91) except it is not recommended for a SLI 7900gtx setup.

Similar Messages

  • K8N Diamond Plus, SLI and Creative X-Fi cards, anyone running similar?

    Hi there!
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    See here:
    http://forums.creative.com/creativelabs/board/message?board.id=soundblaster&message.id=31426
    and here:
    http://forums.creative.com/creativelabs/board/message?board.id=soundblaster&message.id=26289
    I get crackling and popping noises when running most games, e.g. BF2, Fear, FarCry.  When my 2x7800GTX's are in SLI mode it crackles loads, e.g. start far cry, click options, and listen.  When i disable SLI mode it crackles less, but it still crackles.  Many others encounter similar issues with their systems that are not identical but the symptoms are similar - high load = crackling/popping.
    My question is:
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    I've already had a replacement X-Fi card from creative which their tech guy said "should" fix it, lol, I'm wondering wether to replace my A8N32-SLI with an K8N Diamond Plus to fix the problem.  Besides, the MSI board has better PCI slot location and works with nTune too unlike the ASUS board.

    What's going on guys.
    I hate to see peep's having soooo many prob's and it sucks major BALLZ. The reason why I'm reposting is that I encountered a new issue. Not with my rig, but a friend's.
    We pretty much have the same setup. Differences are he's using 2GB of Corsair DDR400 (which is picking up as DDR333 as well), different branded video cards (I'm running two EVGA 7800GT's in SLi, he's running two BFG 7800GT's in SLi), XFi Platinum (me, Fatality Edition) and he's got a dedicated ITE RAID PCI card for his RAID from his previous rig. Configured his BIOS pretty much the same way I have it running (he wanted to Overclock his AMD x2 4400+ to 2.6 GHz), but when it came to installing Windows we kept getting BSOD's during installation. Looked over things numerous times and it didn't make sense. We resetted the BIOS to default settings and Windows went through without a hitch. We tried OC'ing it one more time and Windows was fine. But, when he installed and ran Quake 4, either Windows or the game would just lock up. He booted back into the BIOS and put the CPU back at stock frequency of 2.2 GHz. Game ran flawlessly afterwards. That points at the processor. The only differences were we both have different stock fans and his CPU was manufactured in July '05. Mine in Sept '05. His rig also reports the infamous "Phantom" PCI modem as well.
    Quake 4 is the only game he's got installed so far, but he reports everything is set to their highest qualities, including resolution. He said it runs great with no anomalies. He's going to install Dawn of War and Winter Assault later I know.
    Me? I haven't run into any issues with any games either, including F.E.A.R. as Hydrasworld asked. Both of our sound cards are in the Communication PCI Slot of the motherboard. My take on the OC issue is since we're using different proc's from different wafers, maybe my chip had revisions in September that the July proc my friend has didn't. Also, his heatsink has one less copper pipe I noticed. I'll still drop by for help. Good luck to you all and the only other thing I can add is try using the latest drivers for each piece of hardware you've got.
    LPB
    P.S. If you can and you purchased a retail version of the processor, on one of the sides of the carton insert for the processor, a date should be printed. Maybe that can explain some issues. Once more, my proc was manufactured September 15th, 2005.

  • K8n diamond plus sli link card

    bought a open box k8n diamond plus from newegg and it didn't come with a sli link card
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    where can I buy one?
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    newegg was of no help.
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    the drivers load but none of the base creative software is in the
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  • Diamond Plus SLI mode?

    Ok, now when I have installed all chipset drivers, I'd like to enable SLI mode. But how can I do that? I have set two GF 6800 with SLI bridge and windows find that second card, but there are no enable SLI mode anywhere.
    What is the trick to do that? In manual read's only that plug two cards with bridge, nothing else.
    BTW. The lower heatsink is very hot, I think. You can hardly put finger on it. Is it normal?

    Quote from: mrking.id on 07-May-06, 09:43:26
    I know with the vid drivers one should uninstall the old ones before intalling the new ones, but what about the nForce drivers? I've never updated them before so what is the protocol?
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  • K8N Diamond Plus chip temperatures

    I do not have air conditioning, and with the arrival of summer I was having an apparent overheating problem, so I investigated further.  MSI CoreCenter showed CPU and Sytsem were fine (low 50's under load).  But when I started up the nVidia Monitor, my nForce chip was running high 70's.
    The temperatures between CoreCenter and nVidia Monitor match well, and the nForce chip was darned hot to the touch, so I assume all the readings are reasonable.
    The heat pipe appears to be working (the pipe is hot all the way up to the Zalman cooler, and there is a pretty good relationship between the System temp and the nForce temp - when nForce goes up the System temp also goes up).  There is about a 28C degree difference between the System temp and the nForce temp.  The little system fan on the MSI Zalman cooler modulates up and down to hold the 50C setpoint.
    In summary, my system IDLES in an 30C room with:
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    System:  46C
    nForce:  75C
    That nForce temperature seems way too high to me.  Anyone else notice this?  Does it sound like something is wrong, or is this just the nature of the heat pipe solution on the nForce chip?
    Thanks,
    DJG
    MSI Diamond Plus SLI x16 mobo  (MS-7220?)
    AMD Athlon 64 x2 Dual Core 4200+  running at 2.5GHz w/ Zalman CNPS9500 cooler
    4 x Kingston HyperX 512MB ram (2 Gig total)
    Dual eVGA 7800GT video cards in SLI mode w/ Zalman VF-700 CU coolers
    Antec 550W True Power 2.0 power supply
    Creative x-Fi sound card
    Cooler Master Centurion CAC-T05 case with upgraded fans
    Envision Professional Series 20" LCD @ 1600x1200

    I believe there is some confusion here caused by the SLIx16 capabilities of the Diamond Plus board.  Let me try to give a quick, non-technical explanation:
    Back in the old days, there were three major chips on a board - the CPU, the Northbridge and the Southbridge.  The Northbridge handled memory addressing and the AGP bus.  The Southbridge handled most other communications (drives, serial port, etc...).  Then AMD put their memory controller on the CPU chip, and the need for the Northbridge went down.
    With the later nForce chips, nVidia started producing a one-chip solution.  The Northbridge and the Southbridge were combined together in what became the nForce4 chip.  Now there were only two major chips on the motherboard - the CPU and the combined Northbridge/Southbridge nForce chip.  This was a a very popular solution, and so you saw a lot of motherboards and software and BIOS implementations that would only show two temperatures, the CPU and the SYSTEM.  That's also why you only see two cooling solutions on a lot of modern motherboards, something for the CPU and that little high speed fan mounted right over another chip - the nForce.
    With the release of SLIx16 nVidia had to go back to a two chipset solution.  They probably ran out of pins or something, but they went back to the concept of a Northbridge (which handles one video card) and a Southbridge which handles the second video card and other communications).  This is what the MSI Diamond Plus motherboard implements.  So now there are three major chips on the motherboard again - the CPU, the Southbridge and the Nortbridge.  But, since lots of software and BIOS implmentations altready existed that only showed only two temperatures they just stole the software and the naming.  So the Southbridge chip became labeled as the System chip (and of course the CPU was still labeled as the CPU).  But they have not added the Northbridge temperature to tools like CoreCenter (CoreCell?) or the BIOS.
    That's also why on the Diamond Plus board you've got three heatsinks - one for the CPU, a heatsink with a heatpipe (the low profile chip underneath the video cards, with that stamped silver MSI label on it) for the Northbirdge nForce chip, and a Zalman copper heat exchanger over the System (Southbridge) chip.
    The nVidia nTune version 5+ tool will reveal all three temperatures - the CPU, the System (Southbridge) and the nForce (Northbridge).
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    Thanks, and hope this helps clear up any confusion.
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  • K8N Diamond Plus... Lots o Crashes, and other wierdness

    Well, gotta new build here.   Ran fast and hard from an Abit A8N SLI that was never stable, after 5 months of tinkering.
    Moved to the Diamond Plus SLI X16.  Never had an MSI before, but had lots of the others (Asus, Epox, Abit, ECS, PCChips, etc)  and am so far pretty happy.
    However, there are some strange things happening as I iron out the bugs.
    No BSODs fortunately yet to speak of, but plenty o crashes when exiting FarCry, Quake etc.   Never during the game, but when I exit it blows up.   Also, lots of graphics distortion, which I never had before.
    The thing'll run Prime stable for hours with stock settings for everything plus OCZ mem settings specifically for this mobo (1T).
    But the crashing while exiting is wierd.   The windows dump file has no reference to drivers or anything else, niether does the event viewer, so I have no leads, especially as I'm not that experienced in this Mobo yet.
    I have the latest Nforce and Geforce drivers.   The thing is pretty stable, but gets a little wierded out in games.
    Ideas greatly welcomed, no matter how hairbrained (but please don't tell me its my power supply  )

    Nanohead,
    First off this is not criticism, but the Diamond Plus uses AMD Hyper Transport Technology more than any MB I seen, there may be high end severs that use it more, but I am not into that.
    If you are going to be OC, the Diamond Plus you are going to have known something, a lot, about HT or you MB is going to be unstable.
    The lay out of the BIOS HT parameters may not be prefect, but it is not bad for a companies first draft and that is what its.
    With HT the timing and bandwidth between Processor, Northbridge and Southbridge is all variable in word length and clock speed.  If you do not have them all set correctly you reduce system stably and throughput.
    Because to be the maximum performance out of the system yon not only have to tune FSB, Memory Clock and all memory parameters.  You are now PCI Express Bus parameters and HT parameters tune.  You will notice I did not say adjust, they now need to be tuned, because they all have to be running just the right data rate or you will get corrupted data.  Anyone of the subsystems now running to slow or to fast can crash the system.
    And right now the  Diamond Plus is stall a mix of old and new Technologies and everything has to be tuned manually or just leave it a factory default values, which will not be the fastest the system will run, but it hopefully will be the most stable.
    The days of just cranking up the clocks to OC your compute are over.
    Roger
    When submitting a problem, include a complete list of your system components; include part numbers, all Power Supply Voltages, and their output ratings.  It is almost impossible to estimate what your problem is without knowing something about it. 

  • 2x16 SLI Diamond Plus - Read Review Here

    Just saw this little tidbit of info on the new Diamond Plus 2x16 board...
    Haven't read it all yet, but seeing "Most Overclockable Product Award" on top of the review looks good
    http://www.hardwarezone.com/articles/view.php?cid=6&id=1787

    Quote
    Haven't read it all yet,
    Do it the british lads way start from back (sports pages   )
    Quote
    Conclusion
    First off, let us say that the K8N Diamond Plus is an excellent feature-rich, enthusiast motherboard. As the successor to the K8N Diamond, we had expected nothing less from MSI. However, therein lies a fundamental problem with the motherboard. It is all too similar to the K8N Diamond. In terms of features, the exact same VIA FireWire, Marvel Ethernet and Silicon Image controllers have been used. Even the updated Audigy SE audio onboard is nothing but a re-hash of the Live! 24-bit, using the same DSP,ADC and DAC ships as well. Sure, the Audigy SE carries a better signal-to-noise ratio, but when put in a gaming environment, we don't think it would be noticeable over the din of rocket launchers, fireballs and napalm explosions.
    Even when it comes down to performance, the K8N Diamond Plus matches the K8N Diamond to a tee
    Hardly sounds inspirational

  • K8N Diamond Plus and SLI

    I have the Diamond Plus MB with (2) MSI NX7900GTX-T2D512E Graphic cards and the SLI bridge connecting them. Everything runs great until I enable the SLI in the NVidia display properties. I check the box and as soon as I hit the apply or ok button my system reboots. When I check the display properties after reboot the box is unchecked. Graphics driver is ver 84.43  I really expected the cards to work great with the MSI MB, but so far that's not the case. Any Ideas?

    ^ Echo the power-supply response. I'm not sure what the specs on your PSU are, but you might want to check it. If it's dual-rail, then you could be having a problem. Random reboots when graphics are involved usually means PSU.
    Also make sure your PCI-E connector on your motherboard has power. There's a 4-pin connector on the upper-left of your first PCI-E x 16 slot that needs power if running dual graphics. Check your motherboard manual if you're not sure which one it is.
    Go here: http://www.slizone.com/object/slizone2_build.html
    .. for a list of compatible power supplies for your setup. I'm running a Silverstone Zeus ST56ZF which is one of the few PSU's certified for SLI 7900GTX's, even though I'm running a single 7900GTX, so I can overclock the CPU and GTX all I want.

  • Help! My K8n diamond plus wont start!

    HELP! I've bought a MSI k8n diamond plus mother board, and it woont start, i've tested all my other hardware on my other computer, and it works fine. When i'm turning on my computer, it shuts down after a second. What is the problem?
    /Jeppe

    Quote from: Jeppar on 31-May-06, 21:15:19
    What does it mean if it has a short...
    There is a 12 Vatx Connecter on my motherboard with 8 pin, but on my power supply theres only four, i've connected it anyway, and it fits in, on the half of the connector.
    Could that be the problem?
    I use the same type of connectors, no need for converters.
    I too have only 4 pins out of the 8 on the board connected, no problem at all....
    And yes I do overclock
    But big chance it's the PSU that can't cope, it has only 14A @ 12V1 & 18A @ 12V....not very much for a 500W....
    Also, try to boot with just 1 stick of memory in slot 1.

  • Changing from K8n neo4 SLI Platinum to a K8n Diamond Plus

    Is it a  or  to try and just change  components and everything over and hope it boots up or get some help here in the forum for my answer? I am perplexed , one techie says it probably will need formatting and reinstall :biggthumbsdown:and yet another says tht they are both nf4 chipsets and should be able to boot up . What do you all think will work for me ? Maybe one of you has a solutin for me that is better than formatting and reinstall.  Thanks for your help

    Quote from: limpet on 08-July-06, 08:43:56
    yeah , the platinum won't give me 16 x video with the sli switch card in non-sli mode.
    that's strange, it is the second time that i've seen this problem on the forum, but i never had any problems with mine. however, i thougth that you were going for the extra memory voltages that the diamond plus can provide, because today's graphic cards are still far away from taking up even the 8x pci-e bandwidth. but if you got a good deal, go for it. both of them are excellent mobos.
    you probably won't need a clean system install, but i would suggest that you do it anyway. unloading old drivers and replacing them with new ones will always cause the system to slow down, even if you won't notice. that's why, for a new build, it is always suggested that you go with a clean OS install.

  • K8N Diamond Plus - Cool'n'Quite - Not Starting At Full Speed Everytime. Why?

    Hello,
    I have a K8N Diamond Plus with a power supply that is 620W switching. +3.3V 25A, +5V 30A, +12V 18A, +12V 30A, nvidia 7900GT, amd x2 4400+. My computer will not start at full speed everytime if i enable cool'n'quite. If i disable cool'n'quite, of course, it will start at full speed. I have run multiple benchmarks, etc. using cool'n'quite at full speed and have never had any problems whatsoever. Using BIOS 1.1.
    Can anyone suggest an answer, to get the computer to boot up everytime at full speed using cool'n'quite?
    Thanks!

    you don't need CoreCenter for Cool'n'Quiet to work
    install the AMD64 Processor Driver from here:
    http://www.amd.com/us-en/Processors/TechnicalResources/0,,30_182_871_9706,00.html
    reboot your PC, ensuring Cool'n'Quiet is enabled in BIOS and CPU Multiplier is set to [Auto]
    To enable the Cool ‘n’ Quiet feature on a Windows XP system, you have to change the power scheme. Open the ‘Power Options’ from the Control Panel. Choose the power scheme ‘Minimal Power Management’ and click ‘OK’ to enable Cool ‘n’ Quiet.
    On a Windows 2000 or Windows ME system, an AMD Cool ‘n’ Quiet tab will appear under Power Options when the Cool ‘n’ Quiet software for Windows 2000 and Windows ME is installed. This must be set to “Automatic Mode” for Cool ‘n’ Quiet to be enabled.
    AMD Cool'n'Quiet Installation Guide (.PDF, 653kb)

  • MSI K8N Diamond Plus - Guide to my first week

    OK, not a newb here, but been around the block quite a bit.   MSI K8N Diamond Plus is my 5th A64 mobo (ECS K8M800, my daily undestroyed computer, K8T800, my 12 year olds gamer, Asus A8V Deluxe, first 939 system, Abit AN8 SLI, first SLI gamer, and now the MSI Diamond Plus).   Had the KDP (K8N Diamond Plus) for more than a week now, and here's what I've learned.
    This is state of the art again, and we have no one to blame but ourselves for the pain this causes us when we upgrade like lunatics 
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    MSI is also oddly silent on this system, which is wierd, as they are a large company, and specifically cater to enthusiasts.  But their BIOS guys are MIA.  Hopefully this will not be forever.  Asus, ABIT, DFI, Epox are always fast with fixes
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    As usual, the mobo supplied tweaker utilities are just aweful.  They look like a hallucination from a Hunter S Thompson book, and they work about as well.  Core center is a sad state of affairs, and the rest of them just burrow their way into your otherwise stable system and cause it to have poor behavior.  And therefore as usual, the BIOS is the best way, if slowest, to tweak this bundle of parts
    Which brings us to the BIOS.  IMHO, the worst one I've seen on a high end board.  ZERO explanation for half the settings (this is not strange in and of itself, BIOS is still a black art, but in a tweakers board, we should have some basic explanation  )
    There seem to be adequate settings in the BIOS for all sorts of doodads and gizmos, but who the heck knows what half of them are.  Roger points out rightfully, that we now need to "Tune" across all these different intermediary bus structures and test.  But with the lack of info from either NVidia, MSI or anyone else for that matter, its kinda hard to know where to start.
    The board is clearly sensitive, which is a result of it being high strung.  This is no different than any "first out" product I've ever bought.  Most take 2 or 3 turns of the crank to get totally stable and forgiving.  This one hated my OCZ platinum EL 2Gb kit memory, and it brought out the worst in one of the SLI based EVGA 7800 GT COs.   These components worked in the Abit AN8 SLI (although not always great), but the MSI has ZERO tolerance for even the slightest pertubation from the memory.  It was BSOD city until I removed both of these components by process of elimination that took probably 100 hours
    Once I removed the bad components, and replaced the memory with Geil Ultra X 2x512 2-2-2-5, it worked great, ran Prime95 for 10 hours with no errors, and seems reasonably stable.  I've RMA-d the bad 7800GT CO back to EVGA, and will report back on how SLI behaves when I get the new one (cross shipped of course, I haveno patience )
    I also now need to replace the 2Gb RAM kit with something that the board will tolerate.  I may RMA the 2Gb kit back to OCZ and try another one, but I dunno.   I love OCZ but I have a bad feeling about this, even though they have great!!! support.  I may try OCZ PC4000 or the RAM that Roger successfully used.
    I did upgrade to the 1.16 BIOS, and found that some new things were added, as well as voltage control in Cell was a little better, but registration of changes in voltage is still a disaster.   I adjusted a bunch of times, it didn't register, and I ended up smoking a new A64 3700+ Diego with 1.95 volts, even though the BIOS claimed it was 1.53.  I had to rebot to see what was going on.   The Thermalright XP-90 kept the proc from melting down through the earth
    Finally, I hope this board attracts more people, and therefore more tweakers that can figure out all these gadgets and settings.  Everyone flocked to the Asus X16 SLI product, which is too bad, as this one needs lots o' folks to hack it up for us to figure out what is going on.
    The on board Creative audio sounds lousy to my ears, and I will replace it with an Audigy 2ZS gamer that I had in the Abit.  It just sounds better, but hopefully the drivers will not trash my newly stable system.   Creative scares me, they scare me alot.
    I've been able to get the CPU up to 2.4Ghz, with a .5 volt bump to the CPU and 2.9 volts into the Geil memory.  So far, so stable, no smoke coming out yet 
    I hope this info is somewhat valuable to someone on this board.  I will post details of all changes that I make, as others are doing, so we can at least take care of ourselves with this thing.

    Quote from: nanohead on 15-February-06, 01:17:10
    Which brings us to the BIOS.  IMHO, the worst one I've seen on a high end board.  ZERO explanation for half the settings (this is not strange in and of itself, BIOS is still a black art, but in a tweakers board, we should have some basic explanation  )
    There seem to be adequate settings in the BIOS for all sorts of doodads and gizmos, but who the heck knows what half of them are.  Roger points out rightfully, that we now need to "Tune" across all these different intermediary bus structures and test.  But with the lack of info from either NVidia, MSI or anyone else for that matter, its kinda hard to know where to start.
    first of all, i do think that all the settings in the BIOS have an explanation in the manual, even if it's a basic one. if that explanation doesn't tell you everything in detail, is because if you do need a detailed explanation of the settings, you probably shouldn't be messing around with those settings.
    Quote from: nanohead on 15-February-06, 01:17:10
    I did upgrade to the 1.16 BIOS, and found that some new things were added, as well as voltage control in Cell was a little better, but registration of changes in voltage is still a disaster.   I adjusted a bunch of times, it didn't register, and I ended up smoking a new A64 3700+ Diego with 1.95 volts, even though the BIOS claimed it was 1.53.  I had to rebot to see what was going on.   The Thermalright XP-90 kept the proc from melting down through the earth.
    wanna tell me how did you get 1.95V on that mobo?
    Quote from: nanohead on 15-February-06, 01:17:10
    I've been able to get the CPU up to 2.4Ghz, with a .5 volt bump to the CPU and 2.9 volts into the Geil memory.  So far, so stable, no smoke coming out yet 
    a 0.5V  bump? again, you must be joking. maybe 0.05V.

  • Problem with 2gb Corsair ram on MSI Diamond plus mobo

    Ok first of all,the specs:
    AMD Athlon 64 X2 4200+ "Manchester"
    MSI MS-7100 K8N Diamond Plus, nVidia nForce4 SLI
    MSI GeForce NX7900GTX-T2D512E
    2048 MB DDR-RAM, 400MHz - (TWINX1024-3200C2PRO) Corsair TwinX CL2
    ( 4 pieces at 512mb ram)
    Plextor PX-755SA/T3K DualLayer / 16x DVD+/-RW
    HDD: Maxtor DiamondMax 10 (6V200E0) 200 GB SerialATA-II / 7200rpm
    running on win xp prof. sp2
    with newest version of mobo bios and drivers.
    The thing is, if i stick all the for ram pieces into the pc, it tends to crash down after a while or during the booting with PAGE_FAULT_IN_NONPAGED_AREA as error msg.
    but if i take two pieces out and run all with 1 gb no problems occour. This is starting to really annoy me, so i'm hoping someone has the know how to help me out, i'd really appriciate any suggestions or or solutions, i just want to run my system with 2gb of ram

    run memtest on the system and tell us if you get any errors. it is probably a bad configuration of the memory timings and voltages. try to get the timings and voltages from the manufacturer's web page and then set up manually in bios.

  • NX8600GTS - Diamond Plus HDMI Problem

    I have this new video card and am trying to connect a single display via HDMI only.  I do not wish to use DVI.  I'm having difficulity in setting this up properly.  I need help.  So far the only way I can get this to work is using Dual Display option and use DVI and then send the signal to the HDMI interface; however it requires the DVI connecter be active.  Any suggestions would be appreciated.

    I too am having this problem!!  This is a serious problem that someone from MSI needs to address.  I bought this card to use on my HTPC in my living room on my new Sony 52" LCD for gaming and HDTV.  If I plug just the HDMI in then then everything works up until the point Windows is supposed to start, and the sytem goes still and no display unless I plug something into the DVI port, even a VGA adapter to the TV's built in PC input, then suddently the system starts to boot.  I don't want to have to flip back and forth just to get windows to boot everytime!
    I did some searching on the internet and noticed other people have had this problem in the past with older model Nvidia cards like the 6800.  They appeared to have solved the problem by updating the Nvidia Bios with an ASUS version bios (even though their card was a different manufacturer).  I don't want to attempt this, but the moral of the story is it means the problem most likely is bios related, not driver.  Also the fact that Windows doesn't even boot yet, meaning the driver isn't even loaded yet, confirms that assumption.  What is probably happening is Windows is not detecting any displays so it doesn't boot.  I tried to update the MSI bios but apparently it's at the most current version, and there are no older versions listed for download I could try.
    Can someone from MSI please help us out here with this problem?  Most of the people who buy this HDMI card want to plug it into their HDTV as the only display.  If you can't do that with the HDMI it's worthless for that use!
    Quote from: jzizzi on 11-December-07, 05:44:02
    I have the same problem as the original poster with still no solution.
    Maybe I can clear it up a little as far as the specific problem.
    Hardware:
    MSI 8600GTS Diamond Plus (just one, no sli)
    MSI K9N SLI MB
    Corsair XMS2 Ram
    Sony Bravia 60" Projection TV
    If I plug the video card into a regular monitor via DVI, video card works great. Boots into Windows XP, everything is good.
    As soon as I disconnect the card from the monitor and move it to the tv and connect the tv via HDMI, system can boot into BIOS but after the summary screen, goes blank and Windows won't load. No HDD active LED, nothing.
    As soon as I plug in a monitor via DVI, boot into Windows, plug in HDMI, switch to Multiple monitors, I can then use the TV as a monitor.
    This wont due since I don't want to have a monitor sitting next to my TV all the time.
    I don't want to use another output method for my TV as, the way my sound system is connected, I don't want to have to select different sound sources everytime I switch input's on my tv (if that makes sense to anyone).
    I have done a MSILive BIOS update for the card but I'm not sure what it did since I didn't read the release notes.
    Drivers have no affect in this problem since it doesn't physically boot into Windows anyway.
    ANY HELP WOULD BE AWESOME!!!

  • My new Diamond plus pt2... a pointless thread!

    Hi all
    OK, my last post title stated that my Diamond Plus was crap. Well it's not  Let me explain. My last build was about 2 1/2 years ago. it wasnt top of the range but still a good computer, some of the parts are in my new rig. Now that build was so easy. All I had to do was push everything togeather and flick psu switch and everything worked 100% first time. :D and it's been great ever since. All I ever upgraded was the memory to 1gb.
    Now I've upgraded to a mother board with the latest technology designed to run at the speed of light, and this is where my problems started. First off the psu. no pci-e connectors, and only rated to 350watts. second a soundcard that doesnt like nVidia for some reason and memory, or maybe a cpu, that very picky on how fast it can run.
    So in a hurry I bought a cheapish psu, problem 1 solved, for the short term, then games would crash and prime95 would report errors all the time. So I messed around with the memory timings in bios, with help from a few peeps on here, and now has been rock solid. although prime will get upset between 1 and 2 hours.
    Now thats left to sort is the sound card. 
    Spose what I'm trying to say is. is. is.... Computer building is becoming a fine art. where you cant just bolt things togeather anymore. you have to tune each part to make it work. and sometimes it may take a week or two to do that.
    I now LOVE my MSI Diamond Plus and would recomend one to anyone else looking for a simular build.

    Everyone's comments here are 100% true. You need to have the nerve to explore in new terrain in order to do this. If you had any doubt in yourself, you'd either pay someone to build a rig for you or go out, sell out, and buy a frackin' Dell. Patience is also vital in computer building because without it, you won't be able to find the answers to your questions and solutions to your problems.
    Building rigs can be fun as well as frustrating. Last rig I put together lasted two years before I considered a new system. Heck, that two year old rig is still ticking strong and I plan on reselling it. At the end of 2003, I bought absolutely every latest and greatest piece of hardware on the market including hard drives up the wazzoo, but there was no power supply on the market at the time that could keep a rig with 8 hard drives, a high demand video card and motherboard happy. I pretty much refunded everything and went from large to small. I built an 865P chipset Shuttle SFF Cube PC, P4 2.8C with Hyper-threading @ 3.02 GHz, 1GB DDR433 Dual Channel RAM, SATA 250GB drive, single DVD recorder, GeForce FX 256MB, Analog video conversion capture card and the rest of my raided hard drives I put them in external firewire enclosures. Ran games, edited film, designed 2D and 3D graphics and finished my thesis for my Bachelor's Degree on it like the champ that computer was. The point I'm trying to make is that we all either solve the issue and if we can't, we adapt.
    Congrats on getting your rig straight. Inadequate power supplies can seriously put a blemish on a computer so choose yours based on wattage and reputation wisely. Personally, I've got a Themaltake 650w to run my rig.
    On a sidenote, I think SLi has been the best computer investment EVAH. And ultimately, if you build a rig properly with the right components, a two year run should be more than worth it. 
    LPB

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